Trek around Luang Prabang

Hi, During our stay in Luang Prabang, we're considering a 2- to 3-day trek, but we're torn between two options:

- Organized by an agency? Do you know any that offer what I'd call "authentic" experiences at "reasonable" prices?

- Going solo? Can you easily find public transport to get 80 to 150 km away from Luang Prabang without spending all day on the road, and hike to a few villages? (Car rental seems quite expensive, and the driving conditions are unpredictable.)

Do you have any advice on which direction to prioritize from Luang Prabang? North, East, West, or South?

Thanks for your help! Christian

We just got back from a two-day trek with our guide Mone from Laos Outdoor, and we’re really happy with it. He speaks great English and gave us some really good info. You can contact him directly at Monelitthidate@gmail.com.

Thanks for the info, but could you tell me where exactly you went? Where did you stay? How much did you pay in total for those 2 days?

The guide took us by tuk-tuk shortly after Hat Kho, north of Luang Prabang. We paid $68 each for a group of 4. We stayed in a Hmong village in a bamboo hut—very basic. You can contact the guide and explain your expectations. Just so you know, he’s a certified guide.

Thanks for this info—we ended up stumbling on a 4-day, 3-night package in a village about 80 km north of Luang Prabang that looked really interesting... guided tours, boat rides...

Hi Christian,

Could you share—via Private Message if you prefer—who or which organization you found this "package" through? Thanks in advance, and enjoy this amazing country! Eric

Hi Eric... what a coincidence! While browsing Google Maps looking for villages north of Luang Prabang, I then found this site:

http://www.namngabungalowslaos.com/

It’s the authentic side (at least, I believe so) and the fact that it avoids the discomfort of nights in a hut (my wife isn’t a fan!)—plus the positive reviews—that convinced me... Christian

Hi Christian,

Thanks for the info. I checked out the site, and it does look tempting. It’s true that sleeping arrangements and sanitation often matter more to the ladies, and that’s definitely a factor to consider when possible. Thanks again for sharing! Eric

A little recap of our stay-trek at Nam Nga Bungalows... One of our best memories from our trip to Laos

25/1 BAN NAM NGA Gongs sounded twice last night! We got up at 6:30 AM, packed our bags, settled the bill, and headed to the northern bus station by tuk-tuk—same steep price we’d seen in Thailand, here 50,000 Kips. We arrived half an hour early, but too late—the bus was already full and had left. The next one wasn’t until 10 AM, and it turned out to be a covered taxi. By the time we left, there were a good fifteen of us, packed in like sardines. Coils of cables served as seats in the middle, some travelers rode on the rear step, and we were jostled around on this poorly maintained national road. A few sections were under construction, and we passed numerous worksites: a railway line, roads, a dam—all the signs were in Chinese, "Power China" has taken over Laos. The directions given by Véronique to reach Ban Nam Nga helped us keep an eye on the kilometer markers and alert the driver just before the bridge where we needed to get off. Barely out of the tuk-tuk, a man approached us—it was Pia, our guide. He led us to the boat, and we went up the river for about 2 km to the village, where we docked. Pia accompanied us to the bungalow, carrying our suitcase and backpack. The village seemed very poor; the houses were made of wood and bamboo, and a few permanent structures had concrete beams, cinderblock walls, and tin roofs. Our bungalow must have looked like a castle to many... but do they even know what a castle is? At lunch: vegetables, chicken, and sticky rice scooped by hand from the basket. We hadn’t washed our hands, nor had Pia, who showed us how to do it by grabbing a generous handful with his slightly blackened hands... In the afternoon: a nap. Noy was late returning from Luang Prabang. We explored the village under a scorching sun. The alleys had turned into a barnyard and playground for the kids. We exchanged "Sabaï dii" greetings with the villagers. Many women were weaving.

Other activities caught our attention: women left branches over a fire, then beat them on a stone. Rectangles the size of a placemat dried in the sun on bamboo racks—they were dark green, some sprinkled with seeds and thin tomato slices... We later learned these were algae and got to taste this delicacy. Back at the bungalow, we met two English cycle-tourists who had been on the road for 10 months. They’d crossed Europe, Turkey, and Central Asia to reach this region! Noy arrived around 5 PM from Luang Prabang. We had dinner with the English travelers and took the opportunity to ask them questions. Both worked in TV but were also musicians—"Total Bike Forever" was the name of their project. They still had concerts planned for the rest of their journey: Vietnam, South Korea, then Japan, where their adventure would end.

26/1 Around 9:30 AM, we crossed the village to take the pirogue. Noy and Pia came with us, along with a woman and a young man. We went up the river for a long time; the current was sometimes quite strong, and the riverbed was often cluttered with trees, forming small islands, with some large rocks just below the surface. A few narrow passages created strong currents. Pia was at the helm, but Noy was in front, scanning the river...



..

.. ... more on my blog, page 2019 ...Laos with the matching photos

http://limportantcestlechemin.over-blog.com/2019/01/2019-01-laos-luang-prabang-et-region-nord.html

Hi Christian,

Great little recap and thanks for the link to the full story and photos. You mention some prices—that’s really helpful—but I didn’t see the names of the places you stayed, or your thoughts on them, except for Nam Nga bungalows. Could you share those? Thanks, Eric

Hi Eric, no problem, I booked my accommodations on "Booking" (because it's easy and there's a wide choice) with criteria like price, breakfast, the overall look of the room and bathroom... based on photos and reviews. But I'm not always happy with my choices, and I realize that some hotel owners are "good salespeople" (flattering photos) and not always honest. Booking doesn't verify reviews—I saw, for example, the same review repeated three times in a row with the same score of 10, which boosts the average!

Luang Prabang: "Mékong Moon Inn" hotel - 31 € per night (poor value for money) Vang Vieng: "The Garden Pany" hotel (3 rooms in 3 days!!! ) - 17.5 € (room listed as "superior" on Booking but definitely matching a "standard"... very mediocre) Savannakhet: "Joli Guesthouse" (great value for money) - 12.5 € Paksé: "Forest Hotel" - 18 €

These prices may change depending on offers. Christian

Hi Christian,

Thanks for those detailed clarifications. Like you, I check reviews on Tripadvisor or Booking, but you have to know how to decode the overly positive or overly negative ratings. Then, I usually book directly to save on the sites' commission. Rooms labeled "superior" are generally the basic rooms almost everywhere—otherwise, aim for "deluxe." Often, the difference between the two is very small on-site, even though it’s more significant on the sites or the establishment’s website. Have a great Sunday! Eric

It’s well known that some establishments and travel agencies create accounts to pose as customers who are endlessly satisfied with their trip! Less common on TripAdvisor, where moderators keep a slightly better eye on things. The best approach is to pick one or two hotels, then ask about them on this forum (or ask upfront and wait for responses from regulars).

Hi! I'm in LP and I'm finding treks, but the prices are a bit, uhhh... exorbitant. I didn't quite get how you found your amazing hike or the price you paid. Thanks for shedding some light on this! Looking forward to reading your replies

Hi everyone, I’m logging in today after being away for over a month (obviously for travel! ;)) I’m probably too late for you all, sorry about that! But I’ll leave the link to the site I used (I mentioned it earlier):

www.namngabungalowslaos.com/

Safe travels if you’re still out there... Christian

Hi there, The info here is over 10 years old—could I ask if you know of a more recent forum? Since the train arrived in Laos, have any of you been? I’m looking for a guide to hike in the northern part. Thanks for your help

Hello, There are more recent discussions about Laos on Voyage Forum, fortunately. During VF’s closure due to COVID, some members started: https://forumvoyage.forumactif.com Otherwise, the Routard guide forum is still an option for some. On Facebook: French people in Laos

No, I haven’t been back to Laos since 2019. Our guide during that last month-long trip in the north of the country was: Mr. Chanthavong Kaopraseuth, nicknamed "Vong" – WhatsApp: +856 20 5557 1083 His daughter has also become an official guide in the past two years. He met our expectations perfectly—very available, very creative, suggesting alternative routes based on encounters and events. He adapted as he learned more about our wishes and desires. We experienced both luxury and very basic homestays, surprising culinary discoveries—basically, a pro. Of course, it depends on everyone’s tastes and expectations. For our previous trips, our guides were also very good, but we’ve lost touch. Have a great trip! Eric