Istanbul Trip in 2014 (Full Story)

ISTANBUL STAY in 2014 - (Full story)

dFrom Monday, March 10, 2014, to Sunday, March 16, 2014.

After my first trip to Istanbul in 1979 by motorcycle (Honda Gold Wing), where I stayed for about ten days at a campsite very close to Istanbul, I wanted to revisit this city that had already charmed me back in 1979.

Our flight from Lyon (6:45 AM) wasn’t direct. Basically, we left home at 3:00 AM, and it takes us about 1 to 1.25 hours to get to Lyon Saint-Exupéry Airport. I always leave a little extra time in case of bad weather (snow) or a flat tire. Our flight departed Lyon on time, heading to Frankfurt with an arrival at 8:15 AM, and a connecting flight to Istanbul at 9:05 AM. Needless to say, you can’t dawdle in the airport to get to your gate—Frankfurt Airport is huge compared to Lyon’s. After a 2-hour, 55-minute flight, we landed at Istanbul Atatürk Airport, followed by a good hour of waiting to clear customs and immigration.



To get to our hotel from the airport, we took the metro and then the tram. When we travel in big cities, I always bring my TomTom GPS, which is super helpful for knowing which station to get off at to be as close as possible to the hotel.



And here it is—our little hotel, "Hotel DARA," just a 5- to 10-minute walk from the Blue Mosque and right next to one of the many entrances to the Grand Bazaar.



Speaking of which, when we arrived in Istanbul in the rain, once we got our room, we headed straight to the Grand Bazaar to take shelter from the downpour. Located along 58 indoor streets accessible through 18 gates, it’s home to 4,000 shops. It’s right in the heart of the city.





Like all bazaars, it’s organized into sections, each grouping a certain type of craft: jewelry, carpets, textiles, mosaics, silverware...





And when we left the Grand Bazaar, surprise—the rain had stopped, and the sun and a bright blue sky had returned.





And here’s the restaurant we went to every evening during our stay—a cozy spot with varied dishes, friendly staff, and not too expensive, with a mostly local crowd.



Tuesday, March 11.



Disappointment this morning—the blue sky didn’t last. We woke up to gray skies and a light rain, so we couldn’t have breakfast on the rooftop terrace of our hotel, where the view is amazing.



The breakfast was hearty and great, with both sweet and savory options, and a server who immediately hit it off with my partner, even though she didn’t speak a word of French. My partner got a kiss every morning.

We wandered around the neighborhood below our hotel, an area with the few remaining wooden houses. In 1979, I remember there were many more, but now they’re either falling into ruin or being torn down for more modern buildings.







The Little Hagia Sophia Mosque. Küçük Ayasofya

The weather on our second day in Istanbul wasn’t great, so we decided to take shelter by visiting the Blue Mosque.

The Blue Mosque is such a stunning building that you can’t help but be moved by this magnificent place. There’s something indescribable about it—you just have to experience it in person.





The central dome of the Blue Mosque measures 23.5 meters in diameter and 43 meters in height. The dome is supported by four massive "elephant feet" pillars and buttressed by four semi-domes. The interior is flooded with light from 260 windows.









The Blue Mosque is the only mosque in Istanbul with six minarets—only the Masjid al-Haram in Mecca has seven.





We take off our shoes at the entrance, put them in a plastic bag, and keep them with us throughout the visit.







Street vendors offering "simit"—the Turkish pretzel—are a must-try! It holds the same place in Turkey as the croissant does in France.

The rain continued all day on Tuesday, March 11, so we headed to a strange but sheltered spot that wasn’t lacking in water—the Basilica Cistern.

The Basilica Cistern is rectangular in shape, measuring 138 meters by 64.6 meters, and can hold 78,000 cubic meters of water. The Basilica Cistern is the largest cistern in Constantinople, among the 22 closed cisterns in the city.









Near the end of the walkways in the Basilica Cistern, a big surprise awaits: two Medusa heads carved from marble draw all the attention. Why is one upside down or sideways? Everyone has their own interpretation.



The Basilica Cistern in Istanbul is a true marvel, and many films have been shot here (e.g., *From Russia with Love* with James Bond...)

The rain is still with us today.



Compared to my trip to Istanbul, the city center has changed a lot—cars and honking have left part of the downtown area, trams have replaced trolleybuses, and the city center has become more beautiful. But there are no longer bears with their owners strolling through the city like in 1979, where you’d give a coin to the owner playing a pipe, and the bear, with a muzzle and chain, would start dancing in front of you. I have a photo, but I need to find it...



The Turkish delight shops are still tempting...



A little kiosk where you can find everything.

The rain and cold force us to take breaks in warm places like bars, where we warm up a bit before finding shelter.



Here’s our shelter—it’s Istanbul’s train station.





The weather isn’t improving, so we gather our courage and cross the famous "Galata Bridge," known for its many fishermen.





Galata Bridge is one of the liveliest spots in ISTANBUL. The Galata Bridge is regularly frequented by amateur anglers who, in all weather, come day and night to enjoy fishing.



They catch mackerel, swordfish, sardines, and anchovies. The fish wriggle in basins or buckets, waiting for the end that’s near.



Galata Bridge, overlooking the Golden Horn, is located on the European side between Eminönü and Karaköy.







It’s cold and damp, but we still need to eat—it’ll do us good. We decided on a kebab.





And like everywhere else, a portrait of ATATURK is displayed in this restaurant.



The Tophane Fountain



The Ali Pasha Mosque

Thanks for this story. I’m heading there for the first time in March—I can’t wait to be there!

"Rainbow Stairs"



The weather’s overcast, and it’s not very warm.



Another street vendor selling "simits."



We take the tram to head back to our hotel’s neighborhood.

And in our hotel’s neighborhood, we do some shopping to warm up.







After checking out the local shops, what do you do in Istanbul when it rains? Well, you take sheltered side streets and head back to the Grand Bazaar once again.















After spending a good hour there, with night fallen, we decide to go see the Blue Mosque lit up.











And after this nighttime stroll, we head back to our nearby hotel and check the weather for tomorrow—great, the sun should be back!

Hi Christophe,

Thanks for sharing this—it lets me get a sneak peek of Istanbul and all the places to see. Even with the rain and gloomy weather, it’s great to get an idea of the spots to visit.

What’s the name of that staircase with the colorful steps?

Looking forward to the next part.

Hi Diamina, I think they’re called "Rainbow Stairs" and they’re located—I did a Google Earth search—on Cours Meclis I Mebuson (41°01'44.18"N and 28°59'11.42"E). Best, christophe

Good evening Diamina. I think it was in 2013 when residents of the Cihangir neighborhood (Beyoğlu) decided to repaint the steps of a staircase in the colors of the rainbow as a sign of peace and mainly in support of the Syrian people. Immediately afterward, the local authorities repainted everything in... gray. Of course, the very next night, the staircase was repainted in rainbow colors. Other cities in Turkey followed the example of this Istanbul neighborhood—Diyarbakır, Ankara...

Hi Christophe,

Thanks so much for the details about the staircase.

We’re patiently waiting for the rest. 😏

Hey Chris, thanks for the extra info. 😄

Wednesday, March 12. The weather forecast was right—it’s sunny but not warm enough to have our breakfast on the terrace with a beautiful view of part of Istanbul.

It’s only 7:45 AM, but the nice weather is motivating us. I think this day might be long, and we’ll be walking a lot!!!





Our hotel is called "HOTEL DARA," located at 25 Su Terazisi in Istanbul. I recommend it—it’s near a tram stop when you arrive from the airport, the neighborhood is lively with shops, the Grand Bazaar is nearby, and so are the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia.



The staff is friendly. Our room wasn’t very big, but that doesn’t matter to us—we spend our days outside no matter the weather.



Heading to Hagia Sophia.



Hagia Sophia is certainly Istanbul’s most famous monument. The name Hagia Sophia comes from the Greek *Hagia Sophia*, meaning "Holy Wisdom." In Turkish, it’s called *Ayasofya*.



Hagia Sophia is an ancient Christian basilica founded during the time of Constantinople, specifically in the 6th century. During the reign of Sultan Mehmed II (15th century), it was converted into a mosque.





Hagia Sophia, whether as a mosque or a church, hasn’t been a place of worship since 1934, when it was turned into a museum.









Biblical scenes adorn the walls of today’s basilica, blending harmoniously with the Islamic symbols of the former mosque.









After leaving Hagia Sophia, we take a few small streets.





On our way to Topkapi Palace.



Topkapi Palace is located on the European side, near the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia Basilica. It overlooks the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus, and the Sea of Marmara—a breathtaking view.

Hi Ali, I hope I’ll have time to finish this travel journal before you leave. You’ll see—Istanbul is a fantastic destination. Have a great trip!

The entrance to Topkapi Palace for visiting: the armory, the divan, the jewelry collection, the imperial treasury, the clock collection, the audience hall, the sultans' garments (closed for renovations), portraits of the sultans, the relics, the courtyards, the pavilions (Circumcision Kiosk, Revan Kiosk, Baghdad Kiosk, Terrace Kiosk), the gardens, and a small mosque (Terrace Mosque).



I’ll let you check out the photos—if you want to visit this place and get all the details, a good guidebook or audio guide is a great idea.

We left the Topkapı Palace after nearly 4 hours of visiting, but it’s truly one of the must-see places during a trip to Istanbul.



The Tünel is a line on Istanbul’s metro. It’s an underground funicular with two stations, connecting the neighborhoods of Karaköy and Beyoğlu. It opened on January 17, 1875.



The Tünel was designed by the French engineer Eugène-Henri Gavand in 1867.



After exiting the funicular, we took the famous tram that runs up Istiklal Street to Taksim Square—a pedestrian shopping street where you’ll find all the big Western European brands.











Life at Taksim Square goes on 24/7. This iconic square in Istanbul is the heart of political protests—demonstrations always start here.



During our stay, there was actually a violent protest starting at Taksim Square, but luckily, we weren’t in the area at the time. We were still at the Grand Bazaar, and it was our worried daughters who called us to check in—we hadn’t even heard about it!

"In Turkey, the death of young Berkin Elvan on March 11 sparked intense clashes across the country.



From Taksim Square, we walked up the shopping street to the Galata Tower.



The Galata Tower, also called Christea Turris ("Tower of Christ"), is a medieval structure. Its distinctive cylindrical silhouette stands out in the skyline of this neighborhood, dominating the horizon while offering a panoramic view of Istanbul’s old city and its surroundings.

We head back to our neighborhood by crossing the Galata Bridge once again—the fishermen are always there, no matter the weather...



Or not too far!



The day's catch...



This bridge is a major thoroughfare in Istanbul, with heavy traffic running nonstop from early morning until late at night—full of yellow taxis, engine noises, and honking.





Small bars where you can drink coffee, tea, or even enjoy freshly caught fish.



And in this building, the Egyptian Bazaar was built by the Venetians in 1663 using money collected from taxes from Cairo—hence the name "Egyptian Bazaar."



There are six distinct entrances to the Egyptian Bazaar: four large gates and two smaller ones.



The Egyptian Bazaar is made up of modern shops and traditional stalls selling mainly jewelry, souvenirs, spices, Turkish delight, caviar, dried fruits, and dried meats.





A fantastic place where your senses are overwhelmed...





The Egyptian Bazaar is one of the best spots in Istanbul to buy Turkish delight. Well-packaged, these treats can be brought back from your trip. Turkish delight keeps for several weeks in a cool, dry place. (exact)











To be honest, we bought some to make part of our dinner that night—it was delicious... definitely worth doing again, but not every day!

Hi,

This is such a nice and well-illustrated travel journal. I’m visiting Istanbul ahead of time! Thanks.

It’s so sad, Istanbul in the rain...

After a bit of rest in our room, we went for a little evening stroll not far from our hotel in Istanbul. We felt safe walking around at night.





On Thursday, March 13th at 8:00 AM, the weather was still nice, so we could enjoy our breakfast on the terrace with a great view.





Our first visit of the day was to the Basilica Cistern (Citerne aux Mille et Une Colonnes).



This cistern, called "Binbir direk" in Turkish, covers 3,640 m² and has a capacity of 3,250,000 m³.



Its name means "1001 columns," though it only has 224, with 212 still visible today.



The ceiling rises 14-15 meters high, supported by two columns connected by marble rings.

With the entrance ticket, tea was offered at the bar. That morning, we were the only ones there—no other tourists.



The sky was getting cloudy, but the sun was still out. We took the ferry to Istanbul’s Asian side, which meant crossing the Bosphorus Strait.





The Galata Tower in the distance.





In the distance, the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque, which we were going to visit.

The Mosque of Mirimah (Mihrimah Sultan Camii in Turkish) is a mosque in the Üsküdar district of Istanbul.











The Üsküdar district is a neighborhood that reflects the diversity and history of Istanbul. Üsküdar is a true blend of the two shores, the two rivalries, and two realities of the city: modern and conservative.







A stunning neighborhood you shouldn’t miss during your stay in Istanbul. It’s only eight minutes from Beşiktaş by boat.



Quick meal break at a kebab spot.

















Departure from Istanbul’s Asian side by ferry.

That sounds great, Istanbul in the sunshine!

On board the ferry, we're heading back to the European side of Istanbul.





And we're going to relax in this park, located below the Topkapi Palace site.







Away from the city noise, but with a beautiful view.











View from the terrace of our hotel.



Friday, March 14th, we wake up to another blue sky.



The Süleymaniye Mosque (Süleymaniye Camii in Turkish) was built for Suleiman the Magnificent.

The Süleymaniye Mosque, built by Sinan between 1550 and 1556 on a vast platform of the third hill, is considered the most beautiful in Istanbul after Hagia Sophia,















The Beyazıt Tower built in 1828. Today, Istanbul University occupies the site.



A few rare wooden houses still stand, but they’re likely doomed to disappear in the coming years...







Sunset in March around 5:00 PM.



The Grand Bazaar, a place we visited very regularly during our stay.



Dinner at our usual restaurant.



Our last full day was this Saturday, March 15th—tomorrow we’d sadly be heading back, but we wanted to make the most of this final day with the added bonus of sunshine.





Fire in the Galata Tower district—fortunately, no casualties.



Our destination that day was Pierre Loti Park in Eyüp. Here’s a tip for tourists: there are boat companies that offer tours of the Golden Horn at prices that aren’t exactly great deals.



We took the public ferry boats with locals for a very low fare, and the ride lasted a long time—the boat zigzagged, stopping on the left bank and then the right bank, and so on...

On the boat bus, we’ll spend about 1h20/1h30 making several stops—once on the right bank of the Golden Horn and once on the left, basically a zigzag route.













The terminus is the Eyüp Mosque.



The Eyüp Mosque has an inner courtyard where the mausoleum of Eyüp—also called the türbe of Eyüp—is located, which contains a footprint of the Prophet Muhammad.



After this boat ride, it’s time to grab a bite at a restaurant whose only specialty is chicken.





Next up: the climb through Eyüp Cemetery, one of the most beautiful parts of Istanbul. It’s about a 20-minute walk with no real difficulty.



The tombs are set at the top of the hill overlooking the Eyüp district.



Climbing the winding road up the hill is a unique experience. Thousands of tombs, cypress trees, and a stunning view of the Golden Horn give the whole place an indescribable atmosphere...



There are tons of cats in this area.





The café Pierre Loti was opened in his memory in the Eyüp district, on the European side of Istanbul’s heights. It’s a spot where he loved to write, reflect, and no doubt enjoy the extraordinary view of the city and the Golden Horn.



After walking up through the cemetery, we’ll take the cable car back down to our dock.



The Eyüp-Pierre Loti cable car is a monocable shuttle system built in 2005 by Leitner as part of an urban development project to improve access to the tourist sites along the Golden Horn.

Back on the boat bus heading to the Eminönü ferry terminal, still about 1h20/1h30.







The Galata Tower in the background.







We cross the Galata Bridge again...



A huge crowd on this Friday in the underground passages to the Egyptian Bazaar.





Final visit to the Egyptian Bazaar to bring back some spices and Turkish delight from our Istanbul stay.











We return to our hotel and enjoy the panorama one last time from the terrace as the sun sets.







In the early evening, we head out for a nighttime stroll in the pleasant March temperatures.

The Galata Bridge and the tower of the same name.



The Bosphorus Bridge, also called the First Bosphorus Bridge, and since July 25, 2016, the July 15 Martyrs Bridge, is one of the three suspension bridges in Istanbul.





A quick return to Istanbul station, not too crowded that evening.



On Sunday, March 16, we arrived in Istanbul in the rain on March 10, and on our departure day, the rain came back.





We took our tram to reach Istanbul Atatürk Airport.



And then a metro.







Our flight was to Munich, departing at 3:55 PM, with an expected arrival at 5:15 PM, followed by a wait until 9:10 PM to reach Lyon Saint-Exupéry.





Once above the clouds, we found the sun again.



I found this trip on the Voyages SNCF website, which no longer goes by that name but is now OUI Voyages. It cost 591.42 € for two people, including round-trip flights with Lufthansa (not a low-cost airline, meaning checked baggage and snacks on the flights), as well as 6 nights in a hotel with breakfast (both savory and sweet), a room with a shower and toilet, and Wi-Fi. While there, we spent less than 300 € on visits, bars, restaurants, and souvenir shopping. We used the Istanbulkart for public transportation.



Istanbul is a fantastic destination for at least 6 days. The people are friendly, and there’s no feeling of insecurity when walking around day or night. But Turks, especially Istanbulites, rely on us tourists to make a living.



Before finishing this story, I did some research, and on OUI Voyages, I found a similar trip with the same DARA Hotel for 650 €.

The Turkish lira (TL) has dropped significantly since our trip in 2014—it’s lost almost half its value.

In 2014: 10 TL = 3.26 €, in 2019: 10 TL = 1.67 € In 2014: 50 TL = 16.34 €, in 2019: 50 TL = 8.34 €

Thanks for this beautiful, vivid travelogue. The city has changed a lot—both literally and figuratively. I went there in a 1953 Citroën Traction Avant in 1973, pushing into Asian Turkey. I notice the monuments have been restored, and it’s become "modern"... and much wealthier. Maybe a little less "exotic"? Still, it makes me want to go back, but by plane this time. When the politics there are more peaceful. The world changes. Not my traction, safely tucked away 😊

"When the political situation there is more peaceful." What is there to worry about? Please don’t blame Middle Eastern events on Turkey. It’s much calmer and safer than big European cities.

Hi Yavuz. I don’t want to politicize the conversation—I have Turkish and Kurdish friends. And Syrians too... 😊 I avoid any country that doesn’t sufficiently respect democracy and journalists. Unfortunately, the space for traveling—not just "touristing"—is shrinking on our planet... But nothing is set in stone, and I hope for a more peaceful future.

I agree with you, but not when it comes to the dilemmas Europeans face when talking about democracy or the issue of journalists. We’re quick to criticize Turkey and start boycotting trips and visits. Since I work in tourism, I can clearly see the canceled trips to Turkey. But when it comes to countries with full democracy and human rights like Iran, Egypt, or even Syria 😅, I see sales going at full speed, multiple times a year. And then we talk about a peaceful future.

Good evening,

Turkey’s political climate isn’t any more—or less—calm than when you visited with that beautiful Citroën. The weight of ideology was just as strong back then, and freedoms were at least as limited as they are now. The difference is there weren’t political stakes—or politicians, I’d say—that make France point out supposed failings elsewhere, all to avoid measuring the weight of its own.

I’m a bit off-topic in this discussion, but I wanted to show my support for Yavuz, one of the few people here who’s actually met me.

Michel

Thanks for this beautiful, illustrated report. The city has changed in both senses of the word. I visited in a Traction Avant (pre-Citroën) from 1953 to 1973, pushing through Asian Turkey. I notice the monuments have been restored, and it’s become "modern"... and much wealthier. Maybe less "exotic"? Still, it makes me want to go back—but by plane this time. When the politics there are more settled. The world changes. Not my Traction, safely tucked away 😄

Hello. I live in France, where not everything is perfect. I’m a citizen of the world and a European. And I’m free to choose where I set foot. Without polemics and respectful of everyone’s opinions. According to the Universal Declaration of Human Rights of 1948. As for media freedom, I make it a priority criterion for my travel choices. It’s my call 😊... Among other things. That said, Turkey is a beautiful country.

Hi Michel, and thanks for your support. Since you know Turkey well, you can see the country’s behavior without prejudice. Yes, the political situation is calmer compared to the 90s, but we mustn’t forget that the people are still split 50-50, and the rivalry between modernists and conservatives continues.

But when it comes to tourism, nothing has changed—Turkey bounced back too quickly after the years of decline since 2015, and in 2018, we had over 40 million visitors, except from some Western countries.

Best, Yavuz

Hi Chris,

ISTANBUL is a fantastic destination to spend at least 6 days in. The people are friendly, and there’s no sense of insecurity when walking around day or night, but Turks—and especially Istanbulites—rely on us tourists to make a living.

I really loved your story and photos, and I can’t thank you enough for this travel journal. We’ll definitely try to make the most of it too, with a bonus 6-day trip to Cappadocia.

Thanks so much for all the info you shared.

Hi Diamina, Thanks for the comments on my travel journal. You won’t be disappointed by this amazing city—I hope you have a great trip. Best regards,

Good evening Christophe,

Thanks for this travel journal, so richly illustrated—I’d been saving it for later and just took the time to read it. I visited Istanbul for a week in May 2018 and loved this destination I’d been wanting to see for so long.

Like you, I arrived in the rain, which kind of ruined the first 2-3 days, but then the sun and blue skies settled in for good!

Your photos are great, and I see I’m not the only one snapping away at mountains of Turkish delight. 😛

I’d love to post my own trip report too, but I just haven’t had the time yet...

Stef

Hi Stéphane, thanks for your comments... it took me a while to work on this travel journal too, but now that I have a bit more time, I’m trying to catch up. My stay in Istanbul actually dates back to 2014!!!

I just got back too.

So for those planning the trip:

Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and Topkapi Palace are under renovation, so you only get a partial view of these monuments. No water in the Basilica Cistern—too bad for photos!

After that, there’s still plenty of other things to see.

Thanks for sharing this album! I’m heading there with a friend for the first time in October, and it’s given me tons of ideas.

Hi Béatrice, So glad my Istanbul travel journal gave you tons of ideas for your stay—that’s exactly what travel journals are for! That’s why I’ve been writing quite a few of them lately. Have a great time in Istanbul—it’s an amazing city.

Hello, Have you been to Cappadocia? I’m looking for someone who can recommend a reliable and comfortable overnight bus company (there are so many!!!). Have a great day.

Hi there,

If your destination is Nevşehir, there’s Öncü Seyahat. If you’re heading to Kayseri, there are *so* many companies—all of them are comfortable. I think Süha, for example, has rows of three seats.

The company name usually includes its destination or base, and Kayseri is on the way. Lider Muş, for example, or Vangölü...

Otherwise, there’s always the plane.

Michel

Good evening Tito 38, Well, I’m trying to follow your journey—maybe some changes after 5 years... Best regards.

Here we go, I found at least two photos from our motorcycle trip in 1979.

The photo with the bear was taken in a public park in Istanbul. I gave a coin to the bear trainer, and he made it stand on its hind legs...



This is the motorcycle that took us to Turkey—a Honda 1000 Gold Wing.



1979 was also the year *Midnight Express* came out—I saw it just before leaving!!!

I hope this travel journal has inspired you to visit ISTANBUL. If you have any questions, I might have the answers, so don’t hesitate... even if this trip was back in 2014.

Hi Tito,

This travel journal, with all the photos you’ve shared, seems even better than a travel guide. A huge thanks for this beautiful take on Istanbul. I’ve been on the fence about going, but your post is convincing me—even if it’s almost six years old now. I just hope I’ll have better luck with the weather... Maybe in May or June?