Istanbul Trip in 2014 (Full Story) (page 1 of 3)

ISTANBUL STAY in 2014 - (Full story)

dFrom Monday, March 10, 2014, to Sunday, March 16, 2014.

After my first trip to Istanbul in 1979 by motorcycle (Honda Gold Wing), where I stayed for about ten days at a campsite very close to Istanbul, I wanted to revisit this city that had already charmed me back in 1979.

Our flight from Lyon (6:45 AM) wasn’t direct. Basically, we left home at 3:00 AM, and it takes us about 1 to 1.25 hours to get to Lyon Saint-Exupéry Airport. I always leave a little extra time in case of bad weather (snow) or a flat tire. Our flight departed Lyon on time, heading to Frankfurt with an arrival at 8:15 AM, and a connecting flight to Istanbul at 9:05 AM. Needless to say, you can’t dawdle in the airport to get to your gate—Frankfurt Airport is huge compared to Lyon’s. After a 2-hour, 55-minute flight, we landed at Istanbul Atatürk Airport, followed by a good hour of waiting to clear customs and immigration.



To get to our hotel from the airport, we took the metro and then the tram. When we travel in big cities, I always bring my TomTom GPS, which is super helpful for knowing which station to get off at to be as close as possible to the hotel.



And here it is—our little hotel, "Hotel DARA," just a 5- to 10-minute walk from the Blue Mosque and right next to one of the many entrances to the Grand Bazaar.



Speaking of which, when we arrived in Istanbul in the rain, once we got our room, we headed straight to the Grand Bazaar to take shelter from the downpour. Located along 58 indoor streets accessible through 18 gates, it’s home to 4,000 shops. It’s right in the heart of the city.





Like all bazaars, it’s organized into sections, each grouping a certain type of craft: jewelry, carpets, textiles, mosaics, silverware...





And when we left the Grand Bazaar, surprise—the rain had stopped, and the sun and a bright blue sky had returned.





And here’s the restaurant we went to every evening during our stay—a cozy spot with varied dishes, friendly staff, and not too expensive, with a mostly local crowd.



Tuesday, March 11.



Disappointment this morning—the blue sky didn’t last. We woke up to gray skies and a light rain, so we couldn’t have breakfast on the rooftop terrace of our hotel, where the view is amazing.



The breakfast was hearty and great, with both sweet and savory options, and a server who immediately hit it off with my partner, even though she didn’t speak a word of French. My partner got a kiss every morning.

We wandered around the neighborhood below our hotel, an area with the few remaining wooden houses. In 1979, I remember there were many more, but now they’re either falling into ruin or being torn down for more modern buildings.







The Little Hagia Sophia Mosque. Küçük Ayasofya

The weather on our second day in Istanbul wasn’t great, so we decided to take shelter by visiting the Blue Mosque.

The Blue Mosque is such a stunning building that you can’t help but be moved by this magnificent place. There’s something indescribable about it—you just have to experience it in person.





The central dome of the Blue Mosque measures 23.5 meters in diameter and 43 meters in height. The dome is supported by four massive "elephant feet" pillars and buttressed by four semi-domes. The interior is flooded with light from 260 windows.









The Blue Mosque is the only mosque in Istanbul with six minarets—only the Masjid al-Haram in Mecca has seven.





We take off our shoes at the entrance, put them in a plastic bag, and keep them with us throughout the visit.







Street vendors offering "simit"—the Turkish pretzel—are a must-try! It holds the same place in Turkey as the croissant does in France.

The rain continued all day on Tuesday, March 11, so we headed to a strange but sheltered spot that wasn’t lacking in water—the Basilica Cistern.

The Basilica Cistern is rectangular in shape, measuring 138 meters by 64.6 meters, and can hold 78,000 cubic meters of water. The Basilica Cistern is the largest cistern in Constantinople, among the 22 closed cisterns in the city.









Near the end of the walkways in the Basilica Cistern, a big surprise awaits: two Medusa heads carved from marble draw all the attention. Why is one upside down or sideways? Everyone has their own interpretation.



The Basilica Cistern in Istanbul is a true marvel, and many films have been shot here (e.g., *From Russia with Love* with James Bond...)

The rain is still with us today.



Compared to my trip to Istanbul, the city center has changed a lot—cars and honking have left part of the downtown area, trams have replaced trolleybuses, and the city center has become more beautiful. But there are no longer bears with their owners strolling through the city like in 1979, where you’d give a coin to the owner playing a pipe, and the bear, with a muzzle and chain, would start dancing in front of you. I have a photo, but I need to find it...



The Turkish delight shops are still tempting...



A little kiosk where you can find everything.

The rain and cold force us to take breaks in warm places like bars, where we warm up a bit before finding shelter.



Here’s our shelter—it’s Istanbul’s train station.





The weather isn’t improving, so we gather our courage and cross the famous "Galata Bridge," known for its many fishermen.





Galata Bridge is one of the liveliest spots in ISTANBUL. The Galata Bridge is regularly frequented by amateur anglers who, in all weather, come day and night to enjoy fishing.



They catch mackerel, swordfish, sardines, and anchovies. The fish wriggle in basins or buckets, waiting for the end that’s near.



Galata Bridge, overlooking the Golden Horn, is located on the European side between Eminönü and Karaköy.







It’s cold and damp, but we still need to eat—it’ll do us good. We decided on a kebab.





And like everywhere else, a portrait of ATATURK is displayed in this restaurant.



The Tophane Fountain



The Ali Pasha Mosque

Thanks for this story. I’m heading there for the first time in March—I can’t wait to be there!

"Rainbow Stairs"



The weather’s overcast, and it’s not very warm.



Another street vendor selling "simits."



We take the tram to head back to our hotel’s neighborhood.

And in our hotel’s neighborhood, we do some shopping to warm up.







After checking out the local shops, what do you do in Istanbul when it rains? Well, you take sheltered side streets and head back to the Grand Bazaar once again.















After spending a good hour there, with night fallen, we decide to go see the Blue Mosque lit up.











And after this nighttime stroll, we head back to our nearby hotel and check the weather for tomorrow—great, the sun should be back!

Hi Christophe,

Thanks for sharing this—it lets me get a sneak peek of Istanbul and all the places to see. Even with the rain and gloomy weather, it’s great to get an idea of the spots to visit.

What’s the name of that staircase with the colorful steps?

Looking forward to the next part.

Hi Diamina, I think they’re called "Rainbow Stairs" and they’re located—I did a Google Earth search—on Cours Meclis I Mebuson (41°01'44.18"N and 28°59'11.42"E). Best, christophe

Good evening Diamina. I think it was in 2013 when residents of the Cihangir neighborhood (Beyoğlu) decided to repaint the steps of a staircase in the colors of the rainbow as a sign of peace and mainly in support of the Syrian people. Immediately afterward, the local authorities repainted everything in... gray. Of course, the very next night, the staircase was repainted in rainbow colors. Other cities in Turkey followed the example of this Istanbul neighborhood—Diyarbakır, Ankara...

Hi Christophe,

Thanks so much for the details about the staircase.

We’re patiently waiting for the rest. 😏

Hey Chris, thanks for the extra info. 😄

Wednesday, March 12. The weather forecast was right—it’s sunny but not warm enough to have our breakfast on the terrace with a beautiful view of part of Istanbul.

It’s only 7:45 AM, but the nice weather is motivating us. I think this day might be long, and we’ll be walking a lot!!!





Our hotel is called "HOTEL DARA," located at 25 Su Terazisi in Istanbul. I recommend it—it’s near a tram stop when you arrive from the airport, the neighborhood is lively with shops, the Grand Bazaar is nearby, and so are the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia.



The staff is friendly. Our room wasn’t very big, but that doesn’t matter to us—we spend our days outside no matter the weather.



Heading to Hagia Sophia.



Hagia Sophia is certainly Istanbul’s most famous monument. The name Hagia Sophia comes from the Greek *Hagia Sophia*, meaning "Holy Wisdom." In Turkish, it’s called *Ayasofya*.



Hagia Sophia is an ancient Christian basilica founded during the time of Constantinople, specifically in the 6th century. During the reign of Sultan Mehmed II (15th century), it was converted into a mosque.





Hagia Sophia, whether as a mosque or a church, hasn’t been a place of worship since 1934, when it was turned into a museum.









Biblical scenes adorn the walls of today’s basilica, blending harmoniously with the Islamic symbols of the former mosque.









After leaving Hagia Sophia, we take a few small streets.





On our way to Topkapi Palace.



Topkapi Palace is located on the European side, near the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia Basilica. It overlooks the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus, and the Sea of Marmara—a breathtaking view.

Hi Ali, I hope I’ll have time to finish this travel journal before you leave. You’ll see—Istanbul is a fantastic destination. Have a great trip!

The entrance to Topkapi Palace for visiting: the armory, the divan, the jewelry collection, the imperial treasury, the clock collection, the audience hall, the sultans' garments (closed for renovations), portraits of the sultans, the relics, the courtyards, the pavilions (Circumcision Kiosk, Revan Kiosk, Baghdad Kiosk, Terrace Kiosk), the gardens, and a small mosque (Terrace Mosque).



I’ll let you check out the photos—if you want to visit this place and get all the details, a good guidebook or audio guide is a great idea.

We left the Topkapı Palace after nearly 4 hours of visiting, but it’s truly one of the must-see places during a trip to Istanbul.



The Tünel is a line on Istanbul’s metro. It’s an underground funicular with two stations, connecting the neighborhoods of Karaköy and Beyoğlu. It opened on January 17, 1875.



The Tünel was designed by the French engineer Eugène-Henri Gavand in 1867.



After exiting the funicular, we took the famous tram that runs up Istiklal Street to Taksim Square—a pedestrian shopping street where you’ll find all the big Western European brands.











Life at Taksim Square goes on 24/7. This iconic square in Istanbul is the heart of political protests—demonstrations always start here.



During our stay, there was actually a violent protest starting at Taksim Square, but luckily, we weren’t in the area at the time. We were still at the Grand Bazaar, and it was our worried daughters who called us to check in—we hadn’t even heard about it!

"In Turkey, the death of young Berkin Elvan on March 11 sparked intense clashes across the country.



From Taksim Square, we walked up the shopping street to the Galata Tower.



The Galata Tower, also called Christea Turris ("Tower of Christ"), is a medieval structure. Its distinctive cylindrical silhouette stands out in the skyline of this neighborhood, dominating the horizon while offering a panoramic view of Istanbul’s old city and its surroundings.

We head back to our neighborhood by crossing the Galata Bridge once again—the fishermen are always there, no matter the weather...



Or not too far!



The day's catch...



This bridge is a major thoroughfare in Istanbul, with heavy traffic running nonstop from early morning until late at night—full of yellow taxis, engine noises, and honking.





Small bars where you can drink coffee, tea, or even enjoy freshly caught fish.



And in this building, the Egyptian Bazaar was built by the Venetians in 1663 using money collected from taxes from Cairo—hence the name "Egyptian Bazaar."



There are six distinct entrances to the Egyptian Bazaar: four large gates and two smaller ones.



The Egyptian Bazaar is made up of modern shops and traditional stalls selling mainly jewelry, souvenirs, spices, Turkish delight, caviar, dried fruits, and dried meats.





A fantastic place where your senses are overwhelmed...





The Egyptian Bazaar is one of the best spots in Istanbul to buy Turkish delight. Well-packaged, these treats can be brought back from your trip. Turkish delight keeps for several weeks in a cool, dry place. (exact)











To be honest, we bought some to make part of our dinner that night—it was delicious... definitely worth doing again, but not every day!

Hi,

This is such a nice and well-illustrated travel journal. I’m visiting Istanbul ahead of time! Thanks.

It’s so sad, Istanbul in the rain...

After a bit of rest in our room, we went for a little evening stroll not far from our hotel in Istanbul. We felt safe walking around at night.





On Thursday, March 13th at 8:00 AM, the weather was still nice, so we could enjoy our breakfast on the terrace with a great view.





Our first visit of the day was to the Basilica Cistern (Citerne aux Mille et Une Colonnes).



This cistern, called "Binbir direk" in Turkish, covers 3,640 m² and has a capacity of 3,250,000 m³.



Its name means "1001 columns," though it only has 224, with 212 still visible today.



The ceiling rises 14-15 meters high, supported by two columns connected by marble rings.

With the entrance ticket, tea was offered at the bar. That morning, we were the only ones there—no other tourists.



The sky was getting cloudy, but the sun was still out. We took the ferry to Istanbul’s Asian side, which meant crossing the Bosphorus Strait.





The Galata Tower in the distance.





In the distance, the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque, which we were going to visit.

The Mosque of Mirimah (Mihrimah Sultan Camii in Turkish) is a mosque in the Üsküdar district of Istanbul.











The Üsküdar district is a neighborhood that reflects the diversity and history of Istanbul. Üsküdar is a true blend of the two shores, the two rivalries, and two realities of the city: modern and conservative.







A stunning neighborhood you shouldn’t miss during your stay in Istanbul. It’s only eight minutes from Beşiktaş by boat.



Quick meal break at a kebab spot.

















Departure from Istanbul’s Asian side by ferry.

That sounds great, Istanbul in the sunshine!