After Tenerife, a beautiful discovery of Lanzarote

After several trips to Tenerife, we’re finally discovering the beautiful island of Lanzarote this year! We fell in love with this small island with its magnificent volcanoes and white villages without large hotel complexes!



I won’t be writing a day-by-day travel journal, but rather giving an overview of our experience! For hiking, we chose trails that were about an hour long and accessible for my mom, but we noted some longer ones to do if we come back—I’ll talk about those later!

To visit the sites, depending on the places you choose, you can get BONOS for discounts: more details here: https://turismolanzarote.com/fr/cact-lanzarote-tarifs-et-abonnements/ We bought ours at the first site we visited (Montañas del Fuego), but you have to ask for them—otherwise, they won’t offer them. Make sure to plan ahead which places to include.

Our favorites were the volcanic discoveries and other landscapes of the island: EL PARQUE TIMANFAYA: Las Montañas del Fuego ****

Stunning colors—it’s absolutely breathtaking! Our only regret is not being able to hike through these incredible landscapes!



GPS: 29°00'21.6"N 13°45'11.7"W 9 AM - 5:45 PM

We’d noted, “Best to go early in the morning or late in the evening.” We arrived 5 minutes before the park opened. We’d barely parked when we hopped on the first bus for the mandatory 14 km tour included in the ticket. Perfect—no waiting! We sat on the right side of the bus for the best views. Afterward, we watched the geothermal demonstrations. It’s amazing how hot those little rocks picked up from the ground feel in your hand!



When we left, we saw how right the advice to arrive early was! Newcomers had to queue first to pay at the entrance, then again to access the parking (which was full, so they only let cars in when a spot opened up), and yet again to board the bus! We wouldn’t have wanted to deal with all that!

MONTAÑA CUERVO*** (Crow Mountain) Hike: 1-2 hours / 4 km GPS: 28°59'46.7"N 13°41'04.5"W

A small crater where wild geraniums grow! The hike is short, easy, and very pleasant. It follows a lava field covered in pale-green lichens before entering the crater. To avoid crowds, don’t go too late! We were lucky to have the parking lot almost to ourselves—lots of people were arriving later, even buses!





MONTANA COLORADA*** Hike: 1 hour – beautiful and easy, peaceful, no crowds. GPS: 29°00'18.0"N 13°41'01.7"W The trail loops around this stunning red mountain. Gorgeous colors, striking contrasts, and amazing volcanic rocks! Keep an eye on the ground—you’ll find little “green gems” in the small volcanic stones!







CUEVAS DE LOS VERDES*** We were more drawn to Las Cuevas, which felt more natural, than Los Jameos—though some might find the latter more beautiful, it’s more developed. GPS: 29°09'38.9"N 13°26'19.2"W 10 AM - 6 PM. Guided tour lasts just under an hour. Avoid late morning or early afternoon visits—it gets crowded. A tunnel and volcanic tube formed by an eruption of Monte Corona. The cave is named after the Verdes family, who once owned it. The space is often wide but sometimes narrow! The visit is very impressive, with a great surprise at the end!









VOLCANO MONTAÑA ROJA** in Playa Blanca A hike you can do on foot from our hotel! Beautiful views from the top of the volcano. You can walk around it, see amazing rocks, and even descend into the crater (a different perspective with stunning colors).

LA GERIA*** A stunning and unusual volcanic landscape with all these small honeycomb-like stone walls to protect the vines. These *Fincas* (plots) are unique in the world.







MIRADOR DEL RIO*** GPS: 29°12'50.3"N 13°28'52.1"W Created by César Manrique, a harmonious blend of rock and glass. Exceptional panoramic views of La Graciosa.







MATABURROS** : Lanzarote’s Badlands ☺️ : LZ-2 then LZ-1 From LZ-1, take LZ-404 toward Teseguite. GPS : 29°03'24.9"N 13°30'15.6"W Beautiful natural sculptures eroded by the wind. It’s lovely to wander alone among these rocks! I was a bit worried I’d be disappointed because I’d read there were carved tags on the rocks… and there are some, but not as many as I expected.







Playa CALETON BLANCO** GPS: N 29° 12' 50.4'' W 13° 26' 33.1'' A great spot for a safe swim in a huge natural pool with warm water, no waves, and shallow depths. Fish swim around you!







PLAYA QUEMADA** : A small all-white village with a black sand beach, peaceful and not touristy.



FUNDACIÓN CÉSAR MANRIQUE** 5 km from Arrecife 10 AM–6 PM. 8 € explanatory leaflet in French. Quiet around lunchtime! A building constructed over five volcanic bubbles transformed into rooms, showcasing the artist’s unique architectural style that blends art with nature. The conversion of the house into a museum was overseen by Manrique himself just months before his death. GPS : 29°00'11.1"N 13°32'49.9"W

CASA MUSEO MONUMENTO AL CAMPESINO** : GPS : 29°00'54.6"N 13°36'55.5"W 9 AM - 5:45 PM. Free. A museum showcasing the rural life of the Canary Islands, local crafts, and a nice stop!









Centro de Visitantes de MANCHA BLANCA* GPS : 29°01'59.0"N 13°42'12.6"W 9 AM - 4 PM, free! An interesting stop! An interpretation center about volcanism. Observation platform behind the building. You can’t see the volcanoes well, but you’ll find yourself in the middle of a sea of lava. There’s also a sound simulator!

Ermita de los Dolores* GPS : 29°02'38.6"N 13°40'54.3"W The lava flow from the 18th century stopped just before the church.



LAGO VERDE* (also called El Charco Verde or Charco De Los Clicos) A green lagoon wedged between a black sand beach and black and red cliffs. Too bad it’s no longer possible to hike there due to a collapse. Beautiful volcanic rocks on the beach.







LOS HERVIDEROS*** GPS : 28°57'13.6"N 13°50'00.0"W Steep cliffs where the waves crash dramatically. Fun to wander the little paths carved into the cliffs!







SALINAS DE JANUBIO: old salt flats.



TEGUISE** GPS : 29°03'35.4"N 13°33'29.6"W. A charming little town with white houses, nice around Plaza de la Constitución. So peaceful without the Sunday market—quiet and empty! (Unless you're looking for some action.) We couldn’t see the windmill (it’s been under restoration since February 2019 for 5 months).





HARIA* A lovely village in the Valley of a Thousand Palms, with small white houses and birdsong.

Seaside at Playa Blanca and the lighthouse** Beautiful walk along the coast



















We’re already talking about coming back with this wish list: - Hike to Caldera Blanca (but just with my son since it’s too long) - Termesana hike (guided, but you need to be at least 16, so it’ll work for my son next year ;)) - Coastal hike from El Golfo - Visit to the Cactus Garden - Visit to Los Jameos - Stay longer at Playa Caletón!

Cool, so many memories. Lanzarote was our first taste of road-trip mode. We loved it. Anyway, great photos. Especially of Timanfaya. Such lunar landscapes :)

Hi Fanny, Wow, what a wonderful discovery! I’d never thought of Lanzarote as a destination, but seeing your photos has me tempted. How long did you spend there? Two weeks? You really explored different places. Thanks for taking the time to share. See you soon, Françoise.

Hi Arnaud

Cool, so many memories. Lanzarote was our first taste of road-trip mode. We loved it. Great photos, by the way. Especially of Timanfaya. Such lunar landscapes 🙂

Yeah, we love lunar landscapes😎 and that’s exactly what we’re looking for above all! Death Valley is still calling us next April😉! In February, right in the middle of winter when we’re really craving sunshine, we love heading to the Canary Islands for a little week to recharge—it’s not too far but it does wonders😉! We’ve been to Tenerife a lot (not sure if you’ve been too) and for lunar landscapes, it’s amazing! There are so many hikes with total change of scenery! But even though the Rother guide lists over 70 hikes on the island, we were starting to feel like we’d seen it all! Lanzarote is a great discovery, much more intimate—we’re not disappointed!

No, we’ve never been to Tenerife. It’s on our shortlist for "spring." We always keep an eye out for good flight deals and jump on opportunities when they come up. In April, we’ll be in Budapest—we sometimes enjoy exploring a city even though we prefer hiking.

Death Valley in April , cool, the West again . We miss it so much—can’t wait to go back!

Hello Françoise

Wow, what a wonderful discovery! I’d never thought of Lanzarote as a destination, but seeing your photos, I’m tempted. How long did you spend there? Two weeks? You visited so many different places.

No, just a week! When we go to the Canary Islands (Tenerife in recent years and Lanzarote this time), we stay at the same hotel for a week and explore at a more relaxed pace than when we go to the US! We sightsee, hike early in the morning to have the trails almost to ourselves😉 and then head back in the late afternoon to enjoy an hour or two by the pool or at the beach! But Lanzarote is a small island, so it’s really easy to get around! See you soon Fanny

No, we’ve never done Tenerife. It’s on our short "spring" list. We’re always on the lookout for good flight deals and grab opportunities on the fly.

Tenerife is a lot more touristy, but since most tourists crowd into the big seaside hotels (which initially put me off), you’re left in peace when hiking😎 and the landscapes are stunning and really varied... If you ever get the chance, I’d definitely recommend it😉

In April, it’ll be Budapest for us—we sometimes like exploring a city even though we prefer hiking.

Nice plan too—I’ve never been!

Death Valley in April 😇, cool, the West again 😊. We miss it so much—can’t wait to go back 😏

Yeah, every time we come back, that’s what we say, and there’s so much to see that it feels like we could keep returning forever😉. Have a great Sunday!

I’m taking advantage of it like you did in Lanzarote—did you do the Termesana hike? I found very little info about this hike—it’s allowed but requires a guide!

Not done yet. Reading your travel journal made me discover this hike. Back then, we traveled with a "Routard" guidebook and didn’t hike much. I even think we bought our first trekking poles for Lanzarote 😉 . We did do Caldera Blanca, though. The climb was a bit tough, and the summit was windy, but it’s a great memory—picnicking up there with the crater in view.

Hi, I sent you a PM about Tenerife 🙂 Have a great day 😊

Yes, I just replied to you, hoping it’ll help! I’ll copy my answer here too, since it might interest others:

The best tip is to get the Rother guidebook—it’s a real goldmine of info, with 70 hikes listed! That way, you can choose based on your tastes, walking times, and difficulty levels. I didn’t keep a travel journal for Tenerife. I should’ve started one right after each trip, because later, the memories aren’t as sharp! We loved the little village of Masca! We did the hike that goes up to Masca, and another time the one that starts in Masca and descends to the seaside (with a boat ride back)! Both are stunning! We loved all the hikes at the foot of Teide: the "Teide’s Eggs" hike, Roque de Garcia (do the full hike, don’t just stop at the viewpoint), Samara, wandering around Montana Blanca (the landscape is spectacular—it feels like another planet), Sanatorio... and many more. Otherwise, a different landscape in Güímar: a coastal volcanic hike with cacti, a beautiful contrast between the black rock, green vegetation, and turquoise water! And another unique experience: hiking in the Anaga Forest—it looks like something out of a fantasy film! No tips for restaurants or snorkeling, though! We really liked the little port of La Caleta (below Adeje), and enjoyed some excellent sangria there ;) (on the right side of the cove by the sea).

Oh, and I forgot another longer hike (5 hours with my 6-year-old son at the time): the beautiful Paisaje Lunar.

We did the Caldera Blanca, though. A bit of a tough climb, windy at the top, but a really nice memory of picnicking up there facing the crater.

Awesome, I’ll note that, thanks😉

Thanks a million again! 😊

Hi Fanny,

Thanks for this feedback with such beautiful photos! In the end, you guys hiked way more than we did ;) Given the folks replying to you (hello to them!), it feels like we’re on the USA forum 😎

Hi Jean-Philippe

Thanks for this feedback with such beautiful images!

thanks😉

In the end, you guys hiked more than we did😉

It’s our little pleasure—being able to get away and enjoy those slightly desert-like landscapes. Even a short hike always does the trick😉!

Given the members replying to you (hello to them), it feels like we’re on the US forum😎

Yeah, totally😉

Given the users responding to you (hello to them), it feels like we’re on the USA forum 😎

Hi 😉

Thanks Fanny for this feedback on Lanzarote, our favorite island of the 4 we visited in the Canaries 🙂. The photos are gorgeous and really capture those stunning volcanic landscapes 😎.

Thanks Fanny for this feedback on Lanzarote, our favorite island of the 4 we visited in the Canaries 🙂. The photos are stunning and really capture those magnificent volcanic landscapes 😎.

Thanks Isabelle! Lanzarote is truly a very pleasant island—I also prefer it for its small villages, its size, its more intimate feel, and its volcanic landscapes! But I also really love Tenerife for its more varied landscapes and its more spectacular hikes, though much less for its tourist development with those big hotel blocks.... What are the other 2 islands you visited, and how did you feel about them?

Yes, Tenerife is next on our favorites list: Mount Teide is stunning. The sight of it in the distance when arriving from the north and the arid landscapes on the way down to the south are amazing. We really love volcanic landscapes, which is why we prefer these two islands.

The first one we discovered was Gran Canaria, which we liked, but it’s very touristy and heavily built-up in the south. After that, we visited the other islands... and honestly, I wouldn’t recommend it.

Fuerteventura is the third island we went to—it’s very pretty too. Quite a bit of tourism in some areas, more desert-like, and ideal for a beach holiday.

We really love volcanic landscapes, which is why we prefer these two islands.

😎 same here!

The first one we discovered was Gran Canaria, which we liked but is very touristy and built-up in the south. Then we visited the other islands... and honestly, I wouldn’t recommend it.

Fuerteventura is the third island we went to—it’s really pretty too. Quite a bit of tourism in places, more desert-like, and ideal for a beach holiday.

Thanks 😉

Hello,

The first one we discovered was Gran Canaria, which we liked but is very touristy and heavily built-up in the south. Then we visited the other islands... and honestly, I wouldn’t recommend it.

Oops, I’m going there in 5 weeks. Hope I’ll have a different opinion when I get back ;)

Hi Jean Philippe, As I told Fanny, we loved Gran Canaria because it was our first Canary Island 😎. Everyone has their own references and expectations, though 😉. The very built-up areas are mostly in the south—places like Puerto Rico are really ugly. The greenhouse farms also spoil the landscape, but the rest of the island is really pretty. The inland areas and the rugged west coast offer beautiful scenery. Like anywhere else, you’ve got to seek out the nice spots 😛. Enjoy your trip and let us know how you feel about it 😉.

Thanks for your encouragement, Isabelle! 🙂

Hi Jean-Philippe

Darn, I'm going in 5 weeks. Hope to have a different opinion when I get back 😉

Have a great trip then 😎 looking forward to seeing your photos when you're back😉

Of course Fanny! 😉

Hi there, Having been to Lanzarote 3 years ago, I can confirm that hiking up to Caldeira Blanca is amazing, and it’s not as difficult as it seems. The hardest part is finding where to start, otherwise the approach walk is very long. Otherwise, we also loved the cactus garden!

Good evening Anne-France, and thank you. Yes, if we go back, it’ll definitely be on the agenda ;)

Hi Fanny, Just wanted to add my two cents to your trip to Lanzarote... A "finca" is a farm in Spanish (a term that contemporary architects have adopted to sell these types of homes at a premium), and those semi-circular stone walls can be found in several areas around the Mediterranean: Lanzarote, the Canary Islands, Morocco, Algeria, Southern Italy, and... in some parts of southern France like Provence, Hérault, and I think in Burgundy too. They’re not very well-known because they’ve been overlooked by Europe’s consumerist industrial population, but the return to "old-school values" (and the business that follows the trend) is bringing back what had survived thanks to some determined, courageous folks. It’s an ancient technique that also exists in some parts of France and even in Ireland, Scotland, and Cornwall. I’ve seen them myself. The shapes might differ slightly, but the construction and technique are very precise (solar protection and/or solar energy capture, water retention and filtration, drainage in case of excess water that could harm crops, habitats for small animals and bacteria essential for sustaining life...). I’m planning to see all of this in Lanzarote and the Canary Islands soon. Other trips in the works too! 🌍 Safe travels with your son—it’s the best school for life and sharing... I’m in the same boat with my kids... it’s absolutely amazing and brings daily happiness! 🌍😊🌳🦜🌿🍓

Hi Mariann, and thanks for all these details.

Safe travels with your son—the best school of life and sharing... I’m in the same mov’ with my kids... it’s amazingly great and daily happiness

yeah, you’re totally right😎

Hi Fanny,

Thanks for these gorgeous photos! I’ve been to Lanzarote once before, but unfortunately it was a big family group trip and we didn’t get to see much 😕 Now you’ve really confirmed the impression I had—this island is definitely worth exploring! So many ideas for a little week-long getaway in the heart of winter ;-) Have a lovely evening

Vinciane

PS: Hi Jean-Philippe, Arnaud, and the others 😉

Thanks Fanny for this great travel journal! 🙂

Another destination to add to my wishlist. I really love arid landscapes with beautiful colors.

Plus, as you mentioned, it’s a great spot for a week-long stay.

Carmen

I’m traveling with my grandkids during All Saints' Day, so I’m really interested in this post. What do you recommend for a place to stay in Lanzarote, considering we’re also looking for a good swimming spot for the kids (ages 5 and 8)? Which village offers both practical access to explore the whole island *and* the charm of a pretty village, plus the sea nearby for the kids?

Hi Vinciane,

Thanks for these beautiful photos! I went to Lanzarote once, but unfortunately, it was a big family group trip, and we didn’t see much 😕 Now, you’re really confirming the impression I had—this island really deserves to be explored! Loads of ideas for a little week-long trip in the heart of winter

Yes, it really does deserve to be explored 😎. Happy if this post can inspire you and help you pick up a few ideas😉 Have a good evening, Fanny

Hi Carmen,

Thanks Fanny for this lovely travel journal.🙂

You're welcome😉

Another destination to add to my wishlist. I really love arid landscapes with beautiful colors.

Plus, as you mention, it's a great destination for a week-long stay.

Exactly! I can only recommend it😎Have a great evening! Fanny

Good evening Marie-Flore! The island is very easy to get around, so you can stay anywhere on it for your visits—it won’t be a problem! We stayed in Playa Blanca, at the Royal Monica. It was our first time trying this kind of all-inclusive setup! The best part: everything included (all drinks and meals unlimited)... nothing to do all week, no meals to prepare, no grocery shopping... we just made sandwiches for lunch from the morning buffet since we were out all day! The hotel was nice, the buffet was good, the pool was pleasant with a sea view (I swam every day in the late afternoon all by myself in that big pool—felt a bit VIP😉) and there were lots of little private spots with 3-4 chairs and a palapa by the sea 😎... The downside: the club/animation vibe, which we avoided... It scared us the first day because we hate the "Holiday Camp Paradise" atmosphere. Luckily, we quickly realized we could find peace and quiet by adjusting our schedule😉. We even ended up enjoying it because while most vacationers were at the pre-dinner games, the buffet was super calm and pleasant—much quieter than in hotels without animation😉!





Happy planning! Fanny

Thanks for the info, but I think I’ll struggle with all-inclusive...

I'm traveling with young grandchildren during All Saints' Day, so I'm really interested in this post. What do you recommend as a place to stay in Lanzarote, considering we're also looking for a swimming spot for the kids (ages 5 and 8)? Which village offers both practical access to explore the whole island and the charm of a pretty village, plus the sea nearby for the kids?

Hi Marie-Flore, Our trip to Lanzarote was back in June 2014, so I had to check my notes to remember where we stayed 😉. As Fanny mentioned, Lanzarote is a small island, so no matter where you stay, you can easily get around everywhere. Most of the hotels are in Playa Blanca, in the south of the island. We didn’t break the mold and stayed at the Iberostar Papagayo on half-board. Half-board is a good alternative to all-inclusive, but sometimes the price difference is so small that, like Fanny, we give in to temptation . That said, it’s not a small village—it’s very touristy.

As for swimming, I’m not the best reference since even at the end of June, I didn’t go in the water—the Atlantic is always too cold for me . However, there are some beautiful beaches in the south of the island where the kids can enjoy themselves because there are fewer waves than in the north.

I smiled when I read your message because when we were there, my husband and I said we’d come back with our grandchildren 😎. But we’re still waiting for ours 🙁. I hope you have a wonderful stay—it’s truly a beautiful island. Isabelle

How do you get around the island? Renting a car?

How do you get around the island? Renting a car?

Oh yeah, of course, you need a car to get around and explore! 😊 Plus, it’s really not expensive 😄 Looking back at my notes, we got one for 60 € a week directly from Goldcar, which is a Spanish agency. That was a good deal back in 2014—I don’t know about now 😅 I can only encourage you to go—it’s not far, it’s a change of scenery, and you can hike there too. Sure, not in the Parque del Fogo, and there’s not much elevation, but it’s still a super chill vacation 😊

Hi Isabelle,

Just a heads-up about Goldcar—they’ve got quite a few complaints online (mostly about unexpected, unjustified charges). Glad you didn’t have any issues with them, though! Otherwise, Cicar is currently the most reputable rental company for reliability. I went with Plus Car and had no problems at all, and I haven’t come across any negative reviews for them either: https://fuerteventuralanzarote.blogspot.com/

Hi Isabelle,

Just a heads-up about Goldcar—they’ve got quite a few complaints online (mostly about unexpected, unjustified charges). It seems you didn’t have any issues with them, which is great. Otherwise, Cicar is currently the most reputable rental company for reliability. I went with Plus Car myself and had no problems—I haven’t seen any negative reviews about them either: fuerteventuralanzarote.blogspot.com/

Hi Jean Philippe, Yes, that’s true—we’ve never had any issues with Goldcar, even though we’ve booked with them quite a few times 😇. Though not recently, so take that with a grain of salt 🙂 Thanks for suggesting another option.

Hi Fanny, Thanks for these valuable tips. I’m heading there solo for a week in August (yes, I know it’s the busiest time!). I’ve been dreaming about this destination for over 30 years. Some backpacker friends recently recommended it to me. My only regret is that I’m only staying for a week. I rented a C3 from Autoreinsen. I’ve booked my first Airbnb far from the crowds in Uga, then a small apartment by the sea in Arrieta. Two accommodations to avoid the August traffic (?) and to better explore each region.

Can’t wait to go after reading your post! Thanks

Hello,

I was there in August 2016—it wasn’t crowded at all... On the two hikes we did, we were even alone!

Hi Fanny, Thanks for these valuable tips. I’m heading there solo for a week in August (yes, I know it’s the busiest time!). I’ve been dreaming about this destination for over 30 years. Some backpacker friends recently recommended it to me. My only regret is that I’m only staying for a week. I rented a C3 from Autoreinsen. I’ve booked my first Airbnb far from the crowds in Uga, then a small seaside apartment in Arrieta. Two places to avoid the August traffic (?) and to better explore each region. I can’t wait to go after reading your post! Thanks

Thanks, Catherine—I think you’re going to love it!

Hi Carmen, We rented a car from Cicar before our trip! No issues at all: nothing to pay at booking. When you register, you agree on a pickup location and time! They delivered the car to our hotel, the contract was signed in 2 minutes, the price paid was exactly as quoted at booking... and the person even spoke French😉 (maybe when the booking is made from France, they send someone who speaks the language, or maybe it was just luck...). And for the return, we just left the keys at our hotel reception! We had an automatic... I guess after the US, we’ve really gotten used to them😉!

Hi Fanny, Sharing is a joy... shared! 😊 And bravo for your gorgeous photos (you have a great eye for photography). They really whetted my appetite... and "goodness knows" there’s plenty to see in Lanzarote! 😍

Thanks Fanny. Yes, an automatic is really nice. We have one at home. 🙂