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Under Ghana, "the beach..."

Discussion started by KaniBé on 2019-03-15

35 replies

This thread has been translated into English.


Under Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2019-03-15

Hi fellow travelers, After the "pleasant surprise" of Burkina Faso last year, the urge to continue exploring West Africa hasn’t left me, especially Ghana.

To my mind, this country had two standout features: an English-speaking culture and a coastline (the Gold Coast) where forts and castles built in the 17th and 18th centuries still stand—grim reminders of the transatlantic slave trade.

Despite questions from friends and family like, "Wait, you’re going to Ghana?", "What for?", "Where’s that even?", "Aren’t you scared?", "There aren’t any tourists there!", a few months before departure, I made up my mind. I booked a Paris-Accra ticket via Lisbon on TAP, the Portuguese airline (477 USD), to enjoy a 5-day stopover in the Portuguese capital on the way back. Meanwhile, my travel buddy flew direct from Paris to Accra on Air France.

Good thing he did! He spent the first two days wandering the hot, dusty streets of the capital alone, while TAP (the Portuguese airline) stranded me—along with about 140 other passengers from the Lisbon-Accra flight—in a hotel in Lomé (Togo) due to "serious technical problems" with the plane!!!!!

Well, that was a great start!!!!!

Fortunately, that was the only hiccup in an otherwise eye-opening trip to a country that deserves more attention from French-speaking travelers. Others (especially Germans and Dutch, for historical reasons—we’ll get into that later) are already well aware, as are many Ghanaians living abroad in Europe, the US, and Canada.

Let’s start with the least appealing part of the trip: Accra and its 2.5 million inhabitants, which only deserves a (very) quick visit. Here’s the proof in photos—I’ll spare you the gloomiest ones...

Waterfront at Labadi Beach 1. 2.

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5. Jamestown, Accra’s "port"



Super tankers can’t unload in Ghana—the nearest and most important port is in Lomé, Togo (built by the Germans during colonization).

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Under Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2019-03-15

Contrasts of Accra: 8.



9. One of the main streets, Oxford Street in Osu



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13. Memorial in memory of N'Krumah, the "father" of Ghana's independence, the first African state to gain "freedom" (independence in 1957/overthrown in 1966)


Under Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2019-03-16

Before heading to the Atlantic coast, I’m heading east to spend a few days by the Volta River. 14. Ada Foah, Volta estuary

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16. Atsiekpoe Village While electricity is available everywhere, water has to be drawn from the river. That’s the job of the kids and women in the late afternoon.

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Under Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2019-03-16

Scenes from life in Atsiekpoe 21.



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Under Ghana, "the beach..."

Jackfack · 2019-03-16

This brings back such great memories, thanks!

Under Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2019-03-16

That brings back such great memories, thanks!

Glad to hear that! How long ago are those memories from?

Under Ghana, "the beach..."

Jackfack · 2019-03-17

2012 !

Under Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2019-03-17

Heading west in the country, where the imprint of a painful past is marked by the presence of forts and castles built by successive colonizers (Portuguese, Germans, Dutch, English in Ghana). The furthest west we visited is in PrincessTown, just past Cape Three Points, the southernmost point of the Gulf of Guinea. To get there, no choice but to take a rough track—two young "motorbike" whizzes lead us at a pace our poor joints can barely handle.....





Right here:



Built in 1683 by the Dutch, later ceded to the English, then back to the Dutch, these buildings were used for trading goods (including weapons) for slaves....









PrincessTown village

Under Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2019-03-17

A stroll break in the village of Akwidaa:












Under Ghana, "the beach..."

Solene40 · 2019-03-17

Well, as someone who loves "realistic travel journals," I'm spoiled 😉.

Not even disappointed—I’ll gladly follow the rest!

Thanks for this update, Jean

Under Ghana, "the beach..."

Bluequark · 2019-03-17

Amazing! I love it.

Thanks so much.

Under Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2019-03-17

Glad you like it , it’s motivating!

Under Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2019-03-17

That’s nice! 😊

Under Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2019-03-18

Stop in Dixcove, a fishing village on the way back east.





Fort Metal Cross (built in 1683 by the English). Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979.






Under Ghana, "the beach..."

Veve75020 · 2019-03-18

I spent a week in the fort at Princess Town—the little family there was amazing, so many great memories! I was there in 2008 during the Africa Cup of Nations, it was awesome, such a fantastic vibe🙂

Under Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2019-03-19

Elmina: It’s in this lively little town, bustling thanks to its port and market, that the oldest castle on the Ghanaian coast was built. The Portuguese started constructing Fort São Jorge, later renamed St. George’s, in 1482.... It’s said to be one of the country’s top tourist attractions.............Yet we didn’t see a single person during our 2-hour visit!!!














Below Ghana, "the beach..."

Voyajou · 2019-03-20

After the one from Upper Volta, a high-voltage travel journal. 😉 And still that piercing gaze. Next time you take TAP, why not go all the way to Mozambique: the coastal colonial ruins there have the same vibe.

Under Ghana, "the beach..."

Gabieri · 2019-03-20

Accra Beach spots!

For my seaside trip, Kadafi had a project. Unfortunately, we bet on the wrong horse!

There are other photos on this forum that’ll make you want to head north!

Welcome back!






Under Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2019-03-20

Oh, Mozambique right now isn't really the top tourist destination 😅. Thanks for the insight!

Under Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2019-03-21

For the north, maybe next time.... Thanks for the visit!

Beneath Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2019-03-21

Cape Coast: The penultimate stop on our coastal journey, but the last "castle"—the most famous and most impressive. This is where the largest number of slaves were held in horrifying dungeons between 1685 and 1840.









Views of the castle over the city:




Under Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2019-03-27

Krokobite or "Rasta Beach", the final coastal stop. A refreshing and friendly break in a village where fishing families mingle with Accra’s youth who come for the weekend (just an hour’s drive away). Since the sea is less dangerous here than elsewhere, the beach is lively, and numerous bars set the pace for lazy days with Afro-Cuban sounds 😎. A few images:













As an epilogue to this beautiful trip:


Under Ghana, "the beach..."

Solene40 · 2019-03-27

Oh wow, thank you so much Jean! These colorful port photos are everything I love. I don’t know if we’ll ever choose to go there, but if we do, I won’t forget to reach out to you.

Just one question about interacting with the locals: is it easygoing or really commercial (like "hey white person, give me your money" haha)? How do people react when you want to take their photos?

Thanks again—this discovery was amazing! Christelle

Under Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2019-03-28

Hi Christelle,

Thanks again for your feedback This is exactly why these forums exist—so we can share our experiences and discoveries from around the world 😎, whether they’re good or not. When it comes to interacting with locals, everything was incredibly easy. No communication issues despite the language barrier, just English with a strong local accent. No prejudices toward foreign tourists, and best of all, no harassment from anyone—never any "give me," "I want money," etc. And when you pull out your camera, so many smiles!!!! Proof:







On the bus, great moments of connection



Alright, bye 😎


Under Ghana, "the beach..."

Gabieri · 2019-03-29

https://bradtghanaupdate.wordpress.com/

Happy reading! !

Under Ghana, "the beach..."

Fs05 · 2019-04-29

This travel journal is amazing! Gorgeous photos and so many smiles. All those fishing boats—I hope you ate some great fish! I often go to Burkina (on the way to Ghana, actually), and this makes me want to extend my trip to Ghana next time.

Under Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2019-04-30

Hi Francine,

Thanks for your positive comment! 🙂 Don’t hesitate to cross the border from Burkina—you won’t be disappointed, I’m sure!


Under Ghana, "the beach..."

Amarante63 · 2019-04-30

I'm loving it! And it reminds me of my trip 20 years ago... For next time, I recommend Togo and Benin and their amazing tata somba houses, among other things... I fell in love with Africa in 1998!

Below Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2019-05-01

I'm loving it! And it reminds me of my trip 20 years ago.... For next time, I recommend Togo and Benin with their wonderful tata somba, among other things.... I fell into the African pot in 1998 !

Thanks for the tip, why not.... Any rejuvenation is just a bonus! As for me, my fall into the African pot happened even longer ago, and I’m still not cured!


Under Ghana, "the beach..."

Cathoche47 · 2019-05-09

Hi Jean,

Thanks so much for sharing!! Your photos are gorgeous and really make me want to discover this country.

I’m heading to Ghana from July 17th to August 14th. I’ve got a few questions for you if you’re up for answering them :).

I was wondering how you got around the country? Is it easy to find places to sleep? Do you think it’s possible to camp in a tent?

Thanks a bunch :)

Cathrine

Under Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2019-05-10

Hi Cathrine

I’m heading to Ghana from July 17 to August 14.

Great idea 😛

I’ve got a few questions for you if you don’t mind answering them :).

No problem, happy to help.

I was wondering how you got around the country?

As I mentioned at the start of this travel journal, we had a driver-guide for 4 days who showed us around the southern Volta region. It was an easy way to get a feel for the country and a good first introduction. After that, from Accra, we took the "VIP" bus—long-distance, pretty comfortable, one seat per passenger. Not exactly new, but budget-friendly.



Once we arrived in Takoradi, we took a taxi, like one of these:



In between, we used the "tro-tro", a mini-van that’s supposed to seat 9 but often fits 12 to 15 people (plus "luggage").



Is it easy to find places to sleep?

It depends on what you’re looking for, your budget, and where you are... In cities, no trouble finding a hotel or guesthouse, but in villages, it’s trickier. I booked a few places to stay before I left, especially in spots like Accra, Cape Coast, or Elmina, where there are quite a few "tourists."

Do you think it’s possible to camp?

No idea—I’ve never done it or seen anyone do it there! 🤪

Anyway, don’t hesitate—your vacation’s coming up soon... 😛

Below Ghana, "the beach..."

Choucarde · 2019-05-10

Lovely photos, especially some with all those colorful fishing canoes gathered at anchor, which really remind me of the port of Tombo in Sierra Leone—a country that’s also English-speaking and was a great discovery for me.

Under Ghana, "the beach..."

Erobin1965 · 2020-01-06

Thanks for this travel journal that I just discovered—so many memories, even though we didn’t take the same trip to Ghana. I hadn’t been to Africa before, but believe me, it was the only trip where I cried when leaving. Anyway, I’m heading back this summer.

Thanks to you

Under Ghana, "the beach..."

KaniBé · 2020-01-06

Hi Eric So glad this travel journal helped bring back some great memories. Looking back a year later, I still have fond memories of such a charming country with such wonderful people. Have a great summer in Ghana next time! 🇬🇭 Jean

Under Ghana, "the beach..."

Balanceistin · 2026-04-22

Hello, these are some really beautiful and interesting photos.

Under Ghana, "the beach..."

Balanceistin · 2026-04-22

Hi there, these are really beautiful and interesting photos.

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