Family trip from Marrakech to the desert

We went to Morocco in April with our children and grandchildren. We landed in Marrakech around 9 AM and took a bus to our small hotel in the Guéliz district. This was to avoid dealing with taxi drivers who might give our young travelers a very negative impression of Marrakech... The bus drops us off very close to the Hôtel Toulousain, which has always given us the warmest welcome for over 25 years. We settle into our rooms and head to the medina to have lunch first and then wander through the streets of the old city, introducing it to our little group.



Young and old alike are amazed by the craftsmanship and attention to detail in the work done by the various artisans.



The souks also impress first-time visitors, both with their size and the sheer amount of goods on offer. For those visiting for the first time, it’s a real maze. Colorful chameleons everywhere... Will they survive for long in their cages under the scorching sun? Another surprise for the kids: the lollipop vendor in Jemaa El Fna Square, with giant lollipops that really whet their appetites...



By late afternoon, little legs are tired, and horse-drawn carriages are a welcome way to get back to the hotel.

Hi there,

We're off again and it's awesome. Looking forward to the rest of the story. I'd love to know the price of the horse-drawn carriage ride to your hotel, if you remember. It's always good to have price references.. See you!

If I remember correctly, we had to pay as much as 120 MAD to get from the square to the hotel—120 MAD for the horse-drawn carriage.

I should’ve proofread... It’s around 120 MAD...

After a good night's sleep and a great breakfast, we head back to wander the streets of the medina. Since the madrasa is still closed for renovations, we visit the Bahia Palace instead. It's absolutely stunning.







Then we grab some grilled meats at Oscar Progrès, stopping by the tinsmiths' square. The storks perch on the ramparts, but the photos don’t do them justice. We enjoy the street scene from the terrace of the Grand Café and walk back via Harti Park—it’s quieter and nicer for the kids. A little shopping in Guéliz, and the day ends peacefully with dinner at Winoo in their new setting...

The next morning, we pick up the two Logan cars we’d booked to head south. The sun is still shining in Marrakech, but as the kilometers pass, the sky darkens, and soon it’s snowing heavily. We climb toward Tichka Pass in the snow. We’d planned to stop in Telouet, but the weather talks us out of it.

Once we crossed the pass, the sky gradually cleared up. We stopped at Igherm n'ougdal to visit the collective granary. We’ve driven past this granary for years without stopping, but this time we really wanted to show the kids an *agadir*. These granaries are fortifications that were used to store food supplies, as well as marriage certificates and property deeds during raids. This one has about 80 compartments, and some are still in use. It was recently restored and is in great condition.







After this visit, which was as educational as it was enjoyable, we went to have tea at Sofiane’s place—he had accompanied us to the granary—before continuing our journey to Ouarzazate and then Skoura. The closer we got to Skoura, the more the kids were amazed to see the ground completely white. We’d just had snow! So, snow or salt?



In Skoura, we were happy to return to Kasbah La Palmeraie and Mohamed and Ghislane’s whole family. The kids were thrilled to find playmates. And after the welcome tea, the terrace chairs were calling our names.

I’m happy to be back on the road with you in Morocco. See you soon!

hi there come on, I'm taking the horse-drawn carriage! !😏 I always discover new things, especially when bringing the grandkids along... francia

Oh yes, traveling with kids makes for a whole different trip. It’s completely different... and it’s amazing.

The very next morning, as soon as we’re up, we watch the bread being baked in the garden oven. And right after, we get to taste it. Breakfast is homemade crepes and homemade bread. Everyone’s loving it, of course...

Then we’re ready to go *sooking*—it’s Monday, the liveliest day in Skoura.







It’s a feast for the eyes... Afterward, we head back to enjoy the quiet of the guesthouse, either on the terrace or in the garden. There’s plenty of space. In the evening, Mohamed takes us to his friend the potter’s place. Along the way, he explains how water is shared, the different sources of supply, the pollination of date palms—male flower clusters are tied to female ones... We cross three wadis and a good part of the palm grove before reaching the potter’s workshop. But it’s a wonderful discovery.



After the master potter’s demonstration, it’s the kids’ turn to sit at the wheel. Not so easy... but Mohamed (the potter) is patient and a great teacher. Everyone makes their little creation—a vase, a tagine, a "photophone"... Amazing! Really amazing!

I hope you stopped by the Skoura Women’s Association. They make pastries every day—it’s really lovely. A true hive of activity and hard work.

Whenever we could, we’d buy our afternoon snack from the women in the association. We’d asked Mohamed where it was... When we had time, we’d walk there through the palm grove, and when we were short on time, we’d drive there on our way back from an excursion. A visit the kids wouldn’t have missed for the world! Everything was delicious! And a single price: 1 MAD each. Plus big smiles and so much kindness.

The next morning, after breakfast, I really want to show my little crew the almond tree valley. I’ve been talking about it for so long! They won’t be disappointed. We’re so lucky! It snowed on the peaks. The mountains are stunning!





Along the road, we meet a nomad tending his flock who’s thrilled to introduce us to the newest member of his herd... An adorable kid goat just a few hours old. It’s the star of the moment. All the photographers are snapping away...



We take a walk through the valley. In the villages, young women are busy doing laundry, and older women are cracking almonds they’ll sell to a wholesaler.







At lunchtime, we stop at a little café-grocery, and they serve us an amazing Berber omelette. From the terrace where we’re sitting, we can watch scarlet bee-eaters flying from tree to tree in the garden. On our way back down to Skoura, we stop to buy honey from a small producer in Toundoute—a charming man who also sells all the equipment beekeepers need.



We don’t get back too late, so we’ll have time to buy snacks from the women at the association.

Alright, off we go again for a trip to Morocco—with pleasure! I’d love to do what you did: introduce my kids and grandkids (they’re already teens, 16 and 14...) to it... so, snow or salt? 😉

It was all about salt... salt is very present in this region.

There’s no age limit to enjoying Morocco. Thank goodness!!!!!

The next day, we start with a long walk through the palm grove—on foot for the adults, and on donkeyback for the little ones... We’re surprised to see how fast those little creatures move! The pace is brisk... but the kids are all smiles.

In the afternoon, we visit the grand Kasbah of Amridhil... It’s been restored very simply. The wooden locks amaze more than a few of us. The kitchen is fascinating too. And what about the rooms, with their earthen partitions that separated each person’s sleeping space according to their size?

And in the evening, to celebrate the youngest one’s birthday, we ordered a special menu: cucumber and orange soup, *pastilla* with *beldi* chicken, fruit salad, and of course, a cream cake... followed by a musical evening with Mohamed... the potter... he can do it all...



We hit the road again the next day, but we know we’ll be back through Marrakech on our way home.

We left Skoura for Tinghir. The palm grove there is also worth a visit. We dropped our bags at Ahmed’s place, the Todra Panorama hostel. The welcome was really friendly, and the view of the palm grove is stunning. We took the little path down into the palm grove. It’s charming. It’s peaceful.





Before the end of the day, we made a quick stop at the Todra Gorge. The lighting there is gorgeous, but it’s crowded!



In the evening, we enjoyed the comfort of the cozy dining room and the delicious meal served by Ahmed, especially the tasty harira. The next day, after a massive breakfast—just like always at Ahmed’s—we set off toward Merzouga. We chose to go via Alnif and came across our first camels.

Thanks for sharing this new trip with us. It’s always such a pleasure. Have a great evening.

Around 3 PM, after lunch in Rissani, we make our way into Merzouga. We’d booked our bivouac in advance—we really wanted some time just for ourselves, if possible. So here we are at Dar Gamra, the House of the Moon, with Ali.... We’ve got a little time ahead of us. The bivouac departure isn’t until 5 PM... So we ask Ali if the lake has water, the ephemeral lake. We’ve never seen it full before. But this time, it’s the real deal. Ali’s nephew comes along with us. We take a track through the stony desert, and we get there quickly. Once there, we rent binoculars to watch the birds. The most common are the pink flamingos. They keep their distance—hard to get good photos. There are also ducks and some small waders. A lovely sight. And we’re surprised by the size of the lake.



On our way back, we pack a small bag with the essentials for the bivouac. Everyone climbs onto their camel—the younger ones are a bit nervous... But it’s a magical moment for all of us. It’s just so beautiful!

Oops, wrong move—I clicked "Send my message" instead of uploading the photo...

Once at the camp, we get a little exercise. Climbing to the top of the dune takes some effort, but what a reward! The kids are having a blast—we lent them a board to slide down the dunes. After they’ve burned off all their energy, it’s time to admire the sunset. Stunning! Then, we gather under the tent for dinner because the wind suddenly picked up, and we’re hit with a sandstorm. Another new experience for most of us. Dinner is excellent, and the young staff serving us are really friendly. A few card games and charades before everyone heads to bed for the night—the wind has died down. Perfect.

After a great night’s sleep and a fantastic breakfast under the tent, we head back to the hostel. On the way, we stop to draw water to give the camels a drink. An amazing experience... Such a wonderful memory for the whole family, this shared moment in the desert...

Hi Daniel, Could you give us a few details about your accommodation in Tinghir? Thanks, I’ll be there next week.

Good evening, This lake is stunning! And the dunes are still just as... your good luck followed you to Morocco!

The Todra Panorama hostel is located between the town of Tinghir and the Todra Gorge, on the right above the beautiful palm grove of Tinghir. It's a small, well-designed place, tastefully decorated. You should be able to find the details and photos on Booking or TripAdvisor. They might even have a website... Ahmed’s welcome is really friendly, and the food is good. For me, it's a great spot!

You're right, Roselyne—we got lucky! That way, everyone got to enjoy it.

Great job on this new story—it really takes us on a journey! I just did a trip from Marrakech to Tangier myself, and it was amazing.

Awesome, a little courage to share your trip with us!!!

It's a great idea, I don't doubt that for a second. But I'm not used to it and I'm hesitant to dive in.

At least the different stages, to give us a little idea of the itinerary.

Why not? I’ll draft something first... And if it’s okay, I’ll write it up neatly... But only if it’s okay. So we’ll see!

Good luck and see you soon!

Go Michelle!! It's a region we don't see as much in travel journals. Share your draft with us, and we'll let you know what we think ;)😇 Good luck! See you soon.

Why not? I’ll draft it first... And if it’s okay, I’ll write it up neatly... But only if it’s okay. So we’ll see!

+1 :)

Amazing trip, well done! 🙂

I'm glad you like it! I hesitated to share this trip because it's a classic route that's often detailed on forums. But as long as it's helpful and helps some of you build an itinerary, that's great.

..... I hesitated to share this trip because it's a classic route often covered in forums. But as long as it's enjoyable and helps some of you plan your itinerary, that's great.

This route will become even more common with the increase in direct flights between France and Ouarzazate. But travel journals still inspire and often hide little gems, like this amazing photo I took of Lake Merzouga when it was full of water! So don’t hesitate 😉😎!!

After our night in a bivouac, we left Merzouga to head to the Dadès Valley via Tinejdad this time. But we preferred the route through Alnif. Following a friend’s advice from the forum, we stopped at Résidence Ourti, which has a lovely view of the gardens along the oued. The small apartments are nice, each with its own little terrace. It’s cozy, though a bit chilly since it doesn’t get much sun. Before dinner, we took a nice walk to the famous Monkey Fingers. The lighting was amazing...



The next day, we hit the road again for Skoura. The kids can’t wait to see their little friends again, and they’re happy to stay a few nights in the same place. On the way, we picked up some rose water in Kelaa—small gifts that are always appreciated.

In Skoura, we went for a picnic by the Dadès River, as promised to the youngest ones. They remembered, of course, and had a blast in this paradise-like setting. Swimming and games were on the agenda. Unfortunately, I can’t post the photos—they don’t fit the format. Too bad...

The Routard forum accepted the photos...

I sometimes run into this issue too, even if I’ve only tweaked the photos a little.

New attempt to post photos from the Dades Valley, where we had our picnic... And it worked! Done from my phone.

The picnic idea is great. I love these riverbanks. Did you guys get to take a dip?

We love it too... It has to be said, it's a remarkable place and so close to Skoura. The kids went swimming and had a great time. By the evening, they were wiped out. Have a good day.

Great!

And traveling with family, introducing our loved ones to Morocco, was really amazing.

Yes. When I said "awesome," that’s exactly what I meant. The joy of sharing what we love with the people we love. Collecting beautiful moments in special places. 🙂

What a gorgeous place!

After a lovely picnic day, we spent a day in Skoura, chatting, reading on the terrace, and strolling through the palm grove—if only to go buy an afternoon snack, a moment the kids kept reminding us of. The women got henna done on their hands and feet. Gorgeous results—100% natural henna that’ll last about ten days.



A nice keepsake to bring back from Morocco. Because the next day, it was time to head back to Marrakech. We hit the road around 10 AM and decided to take a detour through the Ounila Valley, something we couldn’t do on the way there. It’s stunning. Once again, between Ait Benhadou and Télouet, salt is everywhere on the surface.

Gorgeous Oulina Valley. I hiked it too, but in the opposite direction—downhill. What a great outing you had there!

What lovely henna lacework!