The Real Srinagar, Behind Its Bad Reputation
THE REAL SRINAGAR BEHIND ITS BAD REPUTATION
Srinagar is a destination that’s hardly popular with tourists. Because of the ongoing war between India and Pakistan, we often hear about soldiers being killed in Srinagar.
I’d also heard that tourists weren’t welcome, but that wasn’t my experience at all.
I went there without listening to all the warnings people kept shouting in my ear, and I discovered a charming city where locals constantly approach you to have tea or chat. I was never alone during my 3 days there—I was always being approached or invited into someone’s home.
I’m creating this post to break the stereotypes about this incredible city and to share what I experienced during one of my best trips in India.
(Update July 2019): I just noticed that Srinagar is marked as a red zone (strongly discouraged) on the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs’ travel advisory map. That doesn’t change the fact that my best memories were in Srinagar and that nothing at all happened while I was there. However, some might not be as lucky as I was. Nothing’s stopping you from going, and I’m tempted to recommend it, but be aware that you’re entering an uncertain area. Safe travels!
Arriving in Srinagar When I arrived, I hurried to find a mechanic to weld the front fender that was scraping my wheel. I went from garage to garage, each one sending me to another and then another… It was pretty hard to find someone who could weld that fender since the screw thread was stripped.
I kept searching until I came across this scrap dealer cutting metal with a hammer:
The man in the checkered shirt told me he could fix my bike, but I had to go with him to his place. So we went together, and I was invited to have tea with his family. He introduced me to everyone, and they seemed really happy to meet a tourist. They kept smiling at me and offering me local sweets. I have to admit, I was a little embarrassed—all I wanted was to get my bike fixed!
The scrap dealer’s nephew was very interested in my camera. I showed him how to use it and let him play around with it, which resulted in some great shots while they were fixing my bike—something I only found out later.
What really struck me were the cables connected to the battery he used for welding. They were just stripped, laid on top of each other, and suspended. When he needed to pass by, he’d lift a wire with his hand, walk under it, and put it back down. I wondered how he’d survived this long!
On top of that, here in India, all the welders in small garages weld with sunglasses, and I’m really not sure how effective those are.
Once the bike was fixed, I asked him how much I owed him. Very generously, he told me to decide for myself. I gave him a little more than I usually do for a weld. This family was incredibly kind—I’d just arrived, and I was already invited to eat with them.
Exploring the City The whole city is crisscrossed by a network of streams where locals transport goods by boat, creating some truly magical moments:
Following these streams, I reached the city center, where I met locals who were surprised to see me but thrilled to get to know me. A really rich social experience!
The Local Market A local market is always open near the mosque I mentioned earlier—it’s a must-visit! The market isn’t big, but it’s a social and cultural experience you shouldn’t miss.
Taking the Road Across the Lake Across from Nishat Bagh Park, there’s a road that crosses Dal Lake, which is full of lotuses. The path is tough to take by bike—I know from experience—but what you’ll see is worth the detour!
