Norway: Nomadic holidays between fjords and northern islands

Hi everyone,

Well, the time to head back has come, so it’s time to share the 3 weeks we spent in Norway this year 🙂



Right, here are a few details before we dive in!

Who: My husband, me, and our daughter, who turned 8 during the trip

When: From July 5 to 28, 2019—three full weeks there

What: A one-way trip from Oslo to Tromsø, with fjords, the Lofoten Islands, and so much more on the itinerary! Since you have to make choices—and because the country is huge—we decided to skip the south around Stavanger (we thought the hikes there might be too tough for us). We also chose not to go all the way to Bergen. Our goal was to spend time in the northern islands.

The route to Bodø:



The route from Lofoten to Tromsø



How: By camper van. Even though it’s not exactly budget-friendly, it’s really the ideal way to explore this country—especially for wild camping and adapting your route based on the weather and your mood. I’d recommend it 200%. It was our first time, and we loved it. Being able to wait out a downpour in warmth or shower after a long hike was super practical!! That said, we did have a few hiccups. The auxiliary battery (which powers the back) died, so we had to find a garage to replace it. And the biggest issue: on a narrow road, I smashed the mirror while passing another camper van 🏴‍☠️

Budget: Oh boy, that’s a big topic! To be honest, I didn’t tally it all up… because I didn’t want to! Everything is more expensive there, obviously. At the supermarket, for example. So I didn’t keep track—this was a vacation, we weren’t there to count every cent, even if we’re not exactly rolling in money! Ferries are pretty pricey, especially with a camper van, but there’s not much choice. Lots of toll roads too. Basically, when you go there, be prepared to open your wallet!!!

The weather: We weren’t sure what to expect before leaving—or rather, we were expecting bad weather. We were pleasantly surprised: we had almost nothing but great weather, with just a bit of rain toward the end. So the hiking trails weren’t muddy (at all?). Otherwise, it would’ve been a real pain and super slippery! Temperature-wise, we were lucky. It hovered between 15 and 21°C. Sounds chilly, but honestly, with the sun, it warms up nicely, and it was enough to wear shorts and a T-shirt almost the whole time—something I didn’t expect before we left. That said, the water temperature is freezing. The Arctic Ocean lives up to its name!! We could barely keep our feet in the water, even though those turquoise beaches were so tempting!!!

A few tips for preparation:

For wild camping: Use Park4Night—the app is amazing for finding spots and sharing our discoveries. We never would’ve dared to venture down some of those roads or trails without it.

For hikes: It’s not always easy to find hikes in the fjords that are manageable in terms of elevation, difficulty, and time. We still found some through blogs and tourist office websites. But we mostly focused on hikes in the Lofoten Islands, thanks to sites like rando-lofoten, 68north, and outt. Unsurprisingly, the level is pretty challenging. But by sticking to the “easy” ones, we managed just fine without being super trained, and we saw some incredible views!

Alright, no more waiting—let’s go! Follow me!

For those who want the "moving version," check out the video here, on page 3: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=9817074;live=1;#9817074

Day 0 - Friday, July 5

Nothing to report, we're taking a flight (direct Bordeaux - Oslo with Norwegian). Once we arrive in Oslo, we head to our hotel near the airport.

Day 1 - Saturday, July 6: From Oslo to Geilo

This is the big day! At 8 AM, the rental company picks us up at the hotel to get our camper van. We’re briefed with a video and some explanations. So much to check out, but in practice, it goes smoothly. We don’t leave until late morning after packing up our things.

We hit the road, but first, we do some grocery shopping.

Then we continue our journey and stop to see the Gol Stave Church. It’s absolutely stunning (and yet barely mentioned in guidebooks!)!!



We finish the drive to Geilo. We head to the campsite—our first night, so we’re taking it easy to get used to the camper van.

Day 2: Sunday, July 7: From Geilo to Voss—Vøringfossen, Kjeåsen, and Eidfjord

Today, we’re discovering our first fjord! But first, we stop by the Vøringfossen waterfalls. Except the sunny morning quickly turns into thick low clouds and rain. Welcome to Norway! 🤪 The forecast promises better weather by early afternoon, so we make the most of the camper van’s perks and wait it out: games, reading, and snacking. 😛

And sure enough, the weather clears up, and the landscape takes our breath away. The waterfalls are dizzying—photos don’t do justice to how grand the site is!!







After this first wow moment, we continue toward Eidfjord. We take a detour up to the Kjeåsen farms. The shuttle runs every hour, so we wait our turn with a couple of other cars. No problem driving up in the camper van—the road is manageable, and the famous tunnel can fit vehicles up to 4.2m. We’re good to go!



The sky clears up more and more, and now it’s actually sunny—we’re almost warm! 😮 What a peaceful spot up there, with a gorgeous view!















After spending a good while up there (though time is limited by the shuttle’s half-hourly descent schedule), we head back down. Then we cross the famous bridge over the Eidfjord. Tunnel / roundabout in a tunnel / bridge / tunnel / roundabout in a tunnel—what a magical sequence!!







Tonight is our first "wild" camping night. We find the perfect spot in a small parking lot by a museum (of old farms), with a lovely view.

Nice, a trip to Norway! :)

Those first photos look absolutely amazing! Just to get an idea of the budget, what was the price range for renting the camper van?

The first photos are seriously tempting! Just to get an idea of the budget, what was the price range for the campervan rental?

Hi,

Okay, brace yourselves—we paid 6000 € for 22 days of rental... The price was obviously higher because of the one-way trip; I think there was a 700 € surcharge. We also got the package that included final cleaning, an extra gas bottle, sheets, a barbecue, etc.

We booked through World Wide Camper, the equivalent of AutoEscape, to reserve a campervan. It was the cheapest option—if we’d gone directly through the rental company (Touring Car) or other brokers, it would’ve been over 7000 €...

For car rentals, if you go for something not too small, it was between 1500 € and 2000 € for the period. And accommodations, if you want to be able to cook inside, add up fast too.

In short, Norway is expensive, but if you can afford it, it’s worth the trip! 🙂

See you soon for the rest!

For those who might be put off by the cost of renting a camper van, there’s the option of a car (your own or a rental) and staying in *hytter*—that is, cabins—in campsites. It’s cheaper than a hotel, you can cook your own meals, and you feel more immersed in nature than in a hotel.

For those who might be put off by the cost of renting a camper van, there’s the option of a car (your own or a rental) and staying in hytter, meaning cabins, at campsites

I completely agree! That’s the option we went for during our trips in 2003 and 2007. The camper van option really appeals to me for the freedom and lack of schedule constraints. Some people rent an RV from Germany for budget reasons.

I’m ready for the rest of the story! 🙂

Thanks for this really lovely start! Just so you know, the Gol Stave Church is a replica. The original building was moved and restored in Oslo at the end of the 19th century and is now open to visitors at the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History. I think the building currently in Gol was built quite recently.

I think the building currently in Gol was built quite recently

In 1995 according to Wikipedia.

Other replicas: another has been part of the Norway Pavilion at Epcot Park, Walt Disney World Resort, USA, since 1988, and the last one is located in the Scandinavian area of Europa Park theme park in Germany since 1992

Day 3 - Monday, July 8 - From the mechanic to the Snow Road, via Stalheim, Nærøyfjord, Undredal, Steigastein

Yes, our day starts off badly. After our first night in the wild, the campervan’s auxiliary battery is completely dead. From the get-go, we’d noticed the charge level was really low, and it seemed odd. Well, here’s the reality: there’s a major issue... And without an auxiliary battery, no lights in the camper—though that’s manageable given the long daylight hours. But more importantly, no water, since the water pump runs on electricity. And that’s a big problem for wild camping... Luckily, it’s Monday, and luckily, we’re near a "big" city. We call the rental company. They’re super responsive, and off we go to a mechanic. The first one doesn’t know anything about campervans, but thankfully, a repair dealer isn’t far away. He plugs in his magic diagnostic tool, and—no surprise—the verdict is in: "Bad and Replace"... Another call to the rental company, repair approved, and we wait a few hours (the mechanic obviously wasn’t just working on us). And just like that, we’re back on the road!

Perfect timing, too—the gray morning sky is clearing up, and the sun’s making a comeback. We head to the Stalheim viewpoint, on the way to Gudvangen.

Access is through the hall, and even if it’s surprising, it’s free, just like the guidebooks and signs say.



The one-way road is super steep and narrow.



Yet buses go through here too—how do they even manage the tight, steep hairpin turns?!

We find a little spot to eat. Since the weather’s nice (and warm!), we eat outside. Here’s the "beast"—



We continue toward Nærøyfjord, the narrowest one. Waterfalls, each more stunning than the last, cascade down the mountains along the roads.



When we arrive in Gudvangen, we’re not alone, of course... We take a quick stroll through the little "village"—or rather, souvenir shops—to admire the fjord. It’s *so* narrow...





We prefer to escape the crowds and take a detour to Undredal, a small village at the end of the Flåm fjord. The vibe here is totally different—calm, peaceful—and we love it!!













The few extra kilometers are *absolutely* worth the detour. Don’t miss the turn—it’s right between the two long tunnels connecting Gudvangen to Flåm.

We skip Flåm and head straight up the road to the Steigastein viewpoint. The road is *super* narrow, but luckily, there are passing spots to let oncoming traffic through.



The higher we go, the more stunning the view!



We reach the viewpoint, which overlooks the fjord.





We keep going on the road, called the Snow Road. It avoids the long 24 km tunnel underneath. The road is gorgeous.



That’s where we find our spot to sleep—the view is beautiful, and it’s super quiet.

Day 4 - Tuesday, July 9 - Borgund and Urnes churches, then drive to Jostedal

Today was all about churches! We started by finishing the snow road.





Then we headed to Borgund Stave Church. It’s really beautiful and well-preserved (though the inside is small and a bit empty).











Next, we took our first ferry!



Before finding a nice spot for a picnic.



Then we made our way to the Urnes ferry. There aren’t many, so we were lucky to find a parking spot on the tiny lot. We walked the round trip—the church is less than a 15-minute walk from the ferry. Just make sure to time it right so you don’t miss the return trip! 😛



The road to the church is lovely, dotted with raspberry fields and pretty houses.





Here we are at the church. It’s gorgeous—smaller than Borgund. We didn’t go inside (same price as Borgund: 200 NOK per person), but when we passed by the open door on our way out, it looked nice. Maybe we should’ve gone in after all?







We ended the day driving to Jostedal, where we stayed at a campsite. We arrived around 6 PM and snagged one of the last spots—it’s super busy here! Not many free spaces, and it’s the closest spot for exploring the glaciers tomorrow.

Day 5 - Wednesday, July 9: A day on the Jostedal Glacier

Today is a big day—we're going to walk on a glacier! We booked this guided excursion a few weeks before our trip with BFL, which organizes groups with kids on the Nigardsbreen, one of the branches of the Jostedal Glacier.

We’re super excited (and impatient—the departure isn’t until 11 AM), especially when we see the sky: blue and cloudless! We leave the campsite early to head to the glacier parking lot. We’re alone, soaking in this magical sight:



It’s our turn to go. We start by taking a boat to get closer, then continue on foot. Like all glaciers, it’s melting 😕. The access is getting longer and farther... It takes about an hour of walking from the boat. Just imagine what it’s like when it’s rainy—I bet it’s *super* slippery 🤪



The closer we get, the more beautiful (and massive) it becomes. If you go alone, don’t be like those people (tiny in the photo) who ignore the ropes to get as close as possible—it’s tempting, but risky. We saw huge chunks of ice break off, so it’s better to keep your distance.



Finally, we’re at the foot of the ice.



Everyone puts on their crampons and harnesses, we rope up, and off we go!





It’s really impressive with all the crevasses, and honestly, it’s a little scary seeing those huge holes (even though this is an "easy" excursion since it’s kid-friendly).





We have a picnic on the glacier before heading back down.







The view of the lake is stunning.



We continue our journey north, skirting the glacier, which has other "arms" elsewhere—it’s impressive from the road.



We end this beautiful day near Skei.

Thanks for this lovely start! Just so you know, the Gol stave church is a replica. The original building was moved and restored in Oslo at the end of the 19th century and is now open to visitors at the Folksmuseum. I think the building currently in Gol was built quite recently.

Thanks for these details!!!

Day 6 - Thursday, July 10 - Above Loen

The good weather is still here, so we can continue our trip as originally planned. We head towards Loen.



We take the cable car up to 1000m. It's majestic, brand new (opened in 2017), and not crowded (despite the cruise ships). But it has to be said, this cable car—expensive but with an easy viewpoint—isn’t (yet?) mentioned in paper guides (at least not in the GR).



At the top, several well-maintained hiking trails. We choose two fairly easy ones that let us walk along the ridge and enjoy some beautiful panoramas.







The view from the top of the ridge is stunning, overlooking the fjord below.





It’s "hot"—the Norwegians can’t handle it, and the ladies are hiking in their bras (not sports bras, actual bras) 😛

At this altitude, there are still large patches of snow.





New terraces are being built and offer amazing views of the lake.



In the late afternoon, we continue our journey toward Geiranger. But first, we pass through Stryn and its *gamle*, where we’ll stop for the night. We’re at the summer ski resort, surrounded by snow (though there isn’t enough for the resort to be open... Too bad for skiers...).

Day 7 - Friday, July 12: Geiranger Fjord

We continue our journey toward the Geiranger Fjord. But first, we finish the Gamle Stryn road. This route is wonderful.







Before starting the descent toward the fjord, we take a detour to Dalsnibba. The viewpoint is stunning, and with weather like this, it’s really enjoyable.





We’re about to drop from 1500m to sea level—it’s pretty surprising!! Another stop at the viewpoint.



We’d booked a boat tour for noon. Luckily, we find a parking spot right nearby! The cruise is lovely.





The Seven Sisters waterfall is quite impressive. I don’t know if it’s in "tiny" mode, but it’s really beautiful either way.



We have a relaxed picnic on the way back before exploring the town. It’s true that it’s very touristy, but honestly, we find it really pleasant.









It’s even a chance to dip our feet in the water. No surprise—the water is *very* cold!!



Then we take the Eagle Road, which climbs toward Eidsdal.





At the top, the road crosses a plateau—it’s lush and really pleasant there too.



We end the day at the parking lot for the next day’s hike, up in the hills above Eidsdal.

We had a really beautiful stop on our way in the opposite direction, and what luck with this lovely weather.

We continue our journey towards the Geiranger Fjord. But first, we finish the gamle Stryn road. This road is wonderful

We also have great memories of this road.

Thanks for this travel journal

Day 8 - Saturday, July 13 - Mystical vibes between Eidsdal and Trollstigen

While the blue sky had been with us until now, we woke up to a completely different atmosphere—we were in the fog 🤪 Yet the weather forecast promised bright sunshine... We waited, but it didn’t lift, so we decided to go ahead with the planned hike: the Blahornet trail. The path was well-marked and led to a lake. With this fog, it had a real Loch Ness vibe!



Then the goats joined us—it was literally the whole herd following us!!



We hiked up to the summit, full of hope, but no—just fog, fog, and despair.

We went back down to the little lake, and it had barely lifted. Oh? The goats were waiting for us 😛





We continued our journey, descending back to the fjord, which we crossed.



And would you believe it? In just a few minutes, the sky cleared, and the sun came back 😎

The road to Trollstigen is absolutely stunning, with endless strawberry fields (and man, are Norwegian strawberries good!!).





The road climbs higher—still breathtakingly beautiful.



Finally, we arrived at the famous viewpoint. What a road!



We descended the road at a leisurely pace—buses have to be precise to navigate those tight turns without getting stuck or maneuvering too much...



We ended the day in Åndalsnes, and the surroundings were gorgeous.

Aahhh strawberries in Norway and Sweden!!! A Swedish friend told me it's the very long sunlight—almost continuous for 24 hours—that explains this incredibly intense flavor.

J9 - Sunday, July 14 - Rampesteken and Ålesund

Well, it’s still foggy this morning—or rather, cloudy 😕. Then again, we’re in Norway, and that’s what the forecast predicted... It’s not raining, and it’s not cold, so we decide to tackle the Rampesteken hike—a ramp in the void above Åndalsnes.

Off we go for a 500-meter climb.



The start is on metal ramps, then it goes straight up through the pine forest. It’s steep, but still manageable (including the descent, which I thought would be slippery with all those pine needles and roots. Turns out it’s very dry, so that makes things easier!).

At the top, we’re right at the cloud line, and it’s a bit chilly. But the view is absolutely stunning.







We head back down and continue toward Ålesund. The drive is quick, and the overcast sky doesn’t inspire us to stop for photos.

We’re heading to the Ålesund campsite for simplicity—apparently, the motorhome area is always packed (at least in high season), and parking is limited. The campsite is only a 20-minute walk from Ålesund’s center. The sun peeks out, and since the forecast calls for "rotten" weather the next day, we don’t hesitate—we rack up the extra kilometers on foot!

The town is lovely, and the streets are *super* steep!!





We climb up to the hill for the panoramic view.







It’s Sunday evening, and it feels pretty quiet. By 7 PM, the souvenir shops close, and the town center is deserted. We grab a bite at Burger King and are almost alone—weird vibe!

J10 - Monday, July 15 - Gray day

We’re "ahead" of our planned schedule. The sky is gray, and rain is forecast for the afternoon. No rush, then...

We spend the morning at the Ålesund aquarium. It’s pretty cool for seeing Atlantic fish.

In the afternoon, we take the ferry to Molde. The rain starts and sticks with us for the rest of the day. We find a spot right before the Atlantic Road by the sea. It’s still really nice, though.

Aahhh strawberries in Norway and Sweden!!! A Swedish friend told me it's the very long sunlight—almost continuous for 24 hours—that explains that incredibly intense flavor.

Yeah, that’s what we read too!!! Anyway, we can definitely say we stuffed ourselves and loved every bite!!!

Fewer cherries though—it was still too early, and they weren’t ripe enough...

Funny story: we tried to bring back a punnet of strawberries. We put them in a Tupperware in the hold. Didn’t realize they’d freeze So bye-bye strawberries—they were all weird 😕

What a marvel this travel journal is, thanks Adeline for this lovely share!! So inspiring 🙂

Definitely has a Scottish vibe with the fog, and an Icelandic one with those grass-roofed houses!! 😉

Can't wait for the next part!! 😎

Day 11 - Tuesday, July 16: From the Atlantic to Trondheim, via the garage

After the rain, the sunshine finally starts to reappear at sunrise. We enjoy the tranquility of the seaside and its small islets (inhabited!).





Then we take the famous curved bridges of the Atlantic Ocean Road.







We continue the drive toward Trondheim. To give my husband a break—he’s been driving almost since the start of the trip—I try my hand at driving the camper van (I’d already driven a bit toward Jostedal). Since I don’t like winding roads, I thought the route to Trondheim would be a peaceful straight line...

Big mistake—the road is narrow, way too narrow for me. I’m not comfortable with the size of the vehicle, and what was bound to happen, happened: I smashed the mirror against another camper van 🏴‍☠️ We end up on the side of the road, exchanging details with the other people. Luckily, they’re Swiss and French-speaking, and they rented their camper van in Germany...

In our misfortune, we’re still lucky because we’re close to Trondheim, a city with a Touring Car agency, our rental company. They’re very professional, call us right away, and tell us to head there. When we arrive, a new mirror is waiting for us, and 20 minutes later, we’re back on the road. Phew... Though our wallet is now 600 € lighter 🤪

We continue past Trondheim and find a really nice spot by the sea.

What a lovely travel journal, thanks Adeline! 😊 I did the Trollstigen route by bus, and the driver regretted that tourists venture there without assessing the difficulty. I think strawberries love the north—this summer in Quebec, some French travelers were bringing them back in their carry-on luggage (safer than in the hold 😅)... the strawberries from Brittany and Belgium taste better to me than those grown further south... there, I’ve just upset the residents of Var 😬

We drove the Trollstigen (Trolls' Road) in our camper van, and we found (though we live in Switzerland) that it was nothing compared to some mountain passes. But obviously, for those used to driving in the Beauce region or Belgium...

Hey Euphroozine,

Come on, admit it!!! You work for the Norwegian tourism office and they hired you to attract tourists!!! With a travel journal like that, such beautiful photos showcasing the stunning landscapes, ...... spill the beans, tell us everything....😏

There you go!!! You just put Norway on my wish list!!!

Anyway, congrats on the travel journal.😏

See you soon!

Thanks everyone for your messages, it's really nice 😉

Nope, I don’t work for the tourist office lol 😛 But it’s true that reading all the blogs and travel journals makes you want to go, so I’m sharing these amazing landscapes in return.

But wait, the "best" is yet to come, because the Lofoten and Senja islands are just wow effect 😇

We did the Trollstigen (Trolls' Road) in our camper van, and we found (though we live in Switzerland) that it was nothing compared to some mountain passes. But obviously for those used to driving in the Beauce or Belgium...

Oh yeah, it's clear that Trollstigen, even if it's still impressive, isn't the "worst" road! The narrow roads and pitch-black tunnels where you can't pass each other on Senja Island take the prize for the "impossible roads" 😎

Day 12 - Wednesday, July 17 - Beyond the Arctic Circle

Well, here we are—our last night in Norway. But no, the holiday isn’t over, don’t go anywhere! It’s just that now we’re crossing the Arctic Circle and beyond, and at this time of year, the sun doesn’t set. Okay, it’s not *permanent* sunlight anymore, but we still get it since we’re heading up to Tromsø—the night almost won’t catch up with us.

We’re taking the E6, and contrary to appearances, it’s not a big highway at all, and it’s not straight like the maps make it seem. We’re driving through vast forest landscapes—it’s really quite lovely.



We spot a moose by the side of the road, but not quick enough to photograph it.

And then—there it is—the nooorrrth.



We’re not taking the detour via Route 17, but it must be beautiful. We’re pushing on as fast as we can to reach the Lofoten Islands and make the most of the sunshine forecast until the weekend. (For info, I’d booked the ferry crossing well in advance, but since we were ahead of schedule and there wasn’t *that* much to see or detour for around here—or at least we’d rather spend more time on the islands—I changed the ticket to move it up a day. But I took the only spot left on the evening boat, and it turned out to be a good call.)

Then the Arctic Circle arrives—an imaginary line but full of symbolism, the feeling of almost reaching the North Pole!





We stop for the night along a river, at a trailhead parking lot—really peaceful and quiet (like pretty much everywhere else, actually).

Well, there you have it—our last night in Norway. But no, the holiday isn’t over yet! Don’t leave—it’s just that we’re about to cross the Arctic Circle, and at this time of year, the sun doesn’t set. Though, I guess this *is* the end of the permanent sunshine…

Back in 2014, we caught one of the last midnight suns of the season on a beach on the west coast of the Lofoten Islands, and it was July 12th

Day 13 - Thursday, July 18: Bodø, hike, boat, absolutely stunning

We’re really close to Bodø, and I couldn’t get a boat any earlier than 6:30 PM. What on earth are we going to do? The Rough Guide says there’s nothing interesting around here 🤪. Luckily, TripAdvisor is more encouraging and promises a 360° view after a short hike up the hills around Bodø. No time to waste—we’re off (and we’re so glad we did!).

First, the road is just gorgeous.



Even the train passes through here!



So we start the hike—it’s pretty easy and well-marked (though really, you just have to climb 😇).

And at the top—wow! So this is what they call "ugly" around Bodø? These guidebooks must be out of their minds...







I mean, the beaches and the color of the water!!!



And we’re not even in the Lofoten yet!!!!

After a good picnic, how about checking out the beaches up close? We’re right near the ferry, it’s warm, and we’ve got time—let’s go!





We’re so happy with this unplanned stop—those mountains we spotted to the south and north of Bodø must be great to explore too!

But another wow moment is coming—it’s time to board for the Lofoten. I’m so excited; I’ve been dreaming about this for years, seeing all those photos, and now it’s finally happening!



The crossing goes smoothly.





And the arrival in the Lofoten comes into view.



We quickly disembark the ferry in Moskenes and hit the road, hoping to see the midnight sun. It’s past 10:30 PM when we arrive in Reine, and it’s just breathtaking with this light.









We drive to Skagsanden Beach, where we easily find a spot for the night (with heated restrooms 😇).

And here we are, all set—just waiting to soak in this never-ending sunset.



It’s another wow moment—but I think I’ve said that already, right?



Time flies—it’s midnight.



And as if drawn into this frozen moment, we just stay there, taking it all in. Okay, it’s almost 1 AM—one last photo for the road, and then off to bed with stars in our eyes (even if we can’t see them in the sky).

What else can I say: wow! 😍 Thanks again for sharing! 😊

Day 14 - Friday, July 19: Reinebringen, A, wow wow!!

After falling asleep under the sun and the sound of little waves, we wake up in the same conditions. The day promises to be dazzling. And it sure was!

First, let’s take a look outside,





We head back toward Reine, but we keep having to stop—it’s just too beautiful!







And here we are, arriving in Reine—it’s truly the spot we loved most in the Lofoten.





We set off to conquer Reinebringen. The trail has been almost entirely redone (just the last few meters left) by Nepalese workers. So it’s much more "accessible" now—though it’s basically a giant staircase, and it’s steep, but nothing like the old trail, from what I’d read.



Of course, easier access means crowds. Sure, we weren’t alone at the top, but when we got there, everyone had the same word on their lips: wow!





The view is absolutely stunning—it feels like you’re in a drone, flying over everything. We spend long minutes just taking it all in, playing "Where’s Waldo?" with the "tiny" cars, boats, and colorful houses.

Time to head back down and see Reine from "below."









We continue exploring the Lofoten, making our way to A.





It’s so nice out (and warm—yes, 21°C!!!) that we end the day at the beach, where we go for a swim—well, actually, we just dip our feet in 😛. It’s not cold; we’re just chilling, relaxed on the sand...





It’s even so pleasant that we can’t resist dining outside—our first time since we left! You’re not dreaming—we’re well beyond the Arctic Circle, and yet here we are!!

Cheers!

There we go, I want to see these islands now! 😫😩

Just one word: magnificent! You can really feel the freshness!

Day 15 - Saturday, July 20 - A view from above and Nusfjord

This morning, it's still really hot—so much so that we have breakfast outside...

Next, we tackle a hike up Mount Nubben. It's a "small" summit (240m) above Ramberg Beach, but the climb is straight up and really steep... Luckily, the dry weather makes it easier, but once again, when it's wet, watch out for slips!!



At the top, the landscape is absolutely stunning, even though the clouds are rolling in.



What a gorgeous panorama!



In the distance, the "pot" is boiling over and spewing clouds.



On the way down, we pass by a storage place for dried cod.



Then we head to Ramberg Beach for lunch—perfect for dipping our feet in the water.





We continue our journey, playing hide-and-seek with the fog.



Good timing—this fog isn’t (yet) in Nusfjord. What to say about this village? It’s cute, for sure, but is it really worth the 200 NOK entry fee 🏴‍☠️???? Seriously expensive...













Anyway, it’s super peaceful and not at all packed like I’d read in the guidebooks...

Alright, let’s go—the fog’s rolling in!





We spend the night at Haukland Beach, where there’s a beach volleyball tournament going on. But we’re completely fogged in!

J16 - Sunday, July 21 - Hike up Mannen

Great, the fog is lifting!



Off we go for the beautiful ascent of Mannen, the summit overlooking the beach.



The climb is fairly easy, and despite the lack of signs, the path is easy to find. Soon we’re on the ridge, with the sea on the left and the sea on the right!

We stop just before the summit, but the view is already stunning! Another wow moment—we’ll stay a while to soak it all in!!







We descend via the other side, onto Utakleiv beach, where we have a picnic. The drizzle forces us to pack up sooner than planned. Too bad—the setting is gorgeous.



A flat path circles the mountain to return to Haukland beach. After a few gloomy hours, the sun comes back, and we enjoy the beach again.











Since we’re comfortable and the spot is lovely, we decide to stay and sleep here for a second night... Note that there are *tons* of campers with tents.

Day 17 - Monday, July 22 - Eggum and Henningsvær

This morning, the sky is overcast, yet the atmosphere is still beautiful with that turquoise water.





We leave our beach and head back up toward Eggum. The sculpture afterward is a bit original, but honestly, it’s not really worth the detour... Still, the surroundings are really lovely.







Our daughter is turning 8 today! It’s still pretty unusual to celebrate a birthday in a place like this...



The sun comes back out, and those beaches—each one is just as stunning as the next.







We spend the afternoon in Henningsvær, a cute little village.

Day 18 - Wednesday, July 23: Vesterålen Islands

We slept near Rørvik beach. A very pretty spot but not particularly quiet...





We continue our journey north toward the Vesterålen Islands. But first, let’s hit the road and enjoy these viewpoints. Still so beautiful.

Here, a perfect mirror



And here, majestic mountains





Now we’re in the Vesterålen Islands—still stunning.



We chose Andøya Island so we could later head to Senja.







Near Andenes, we find a gorgeous spot to spend the night. It was supposed to be our hiking departure, but the "heat" (a whopping 23°C) got the better of us, and we ended up having a great beach afternoon instead.















What a magnificent spot for a peaceful night.



And to enjoy some delicious Norwegian salmon.



Day 19 - Thursday, July 24

A gray day... The forecasted bad weather has arrived. It’s not too bothersome since we have over 2 hours of ferry time to Senja Island. Senja is gorgeous, but wow, the roads! So narrow!!! And unfortunately, the clouds are getting lower and lower—we can’t see a thing. Such a shame... But hey, we’re in the north, right? 😛

Day 20 - Thursday, July 25 - Hesten Hike

The low clouds are finally clearing—great, since we’re planning to hike today! 🙂 We’re heading up to Hesten to see the Segla peak. But first, we’ve got to tackle the road—wow, it’s narrow! We pass through unlit tunnels where you can’t pass another car, so you have to pull into the designated recesses...

From a distance, we spot Segla, that tooth-shaped summit.



The trail starts in the woods and then climbs quite a bit, but it’s actually much easier than the other paths we’ve taken.



We make it to a pass and then cut more directly toward the cliff. The summit of Hesten seems pretty rocky and a bit tricky, but it doesn’t matter—the view is just incredible.







We head back down calmly in the afternoon. The weather’s starting to cloud over. Day 21 - Friday, July 26 - Toward Sommarøy Island

We take the ferry to Sommarøy Island, but the weather’s turning. We’d planned a hike to a small summit, but we wait for it to clear—unfortunately, the clouds just keep getting lower. We give it a shot anyway, but we can’t see a thing 😐 Too bad, it was our last hike. 😕

J22 - Saturday, July 27 - Return to Tromsø

We wake up again in the fog. Yet the weather forecast promised perfect conditions... We have to return the campervan to Tromsø by 2:00 PM, so we take our time. Unfortunately, the weather clears up just as we need to leave... Still, we enjoy it on the road.





Returning the campervan goes smoothly. We settle the hefty bill for the broken mirror (600 € 🏴‍☠️). Then we’re taken to our hotel in Tromsø for this last Norwegian night.

We explore the city at a leisurely pace.











J23 - Sunday, July 28 - Return

Well, the time has come to end our holiday—we take the flight to Oslo. The French heatwave has reached here too; it’s 30°C!!!



One last goodbye to Norway, and we fly off to Bordeaux...

Conclusion:

It was a wonderful trip. We loved the landscapes, the hikes, the weather... We really appreciated the campervan—it was perfect for this country and the freedom it gave us! We’d love to try this way of traveling for a California and West Coast national parks road trip... Maybe in a few years??

Happy to answer any questions, of course! 😛

Thanks for this really interesting and beautiful share.

Another big thank you for this travel journal. Great job on the photos—what stunning landscapes! You were really lucky with the weather. Wishing you all wonderful family trips 😊.

Thanks for this travel journal—it’s making me want to visit Norway for a third time to explore the Lofoten islands!

Hi there,

This travel journal is really amazing. It makes me want to go! Thanks so much.

Hi Adeline,

The Lofoten Islands... they're just stunning! I'm seriously considering going there next year. Thank you so much for sharing your gorgeous photos and guiding us through your journey.

See you soon for another destination.

Absolutely stunning and how lucky with that gorgeous weather!! Even when it wasn’t super nice out, the photos are top-notch 🙂 Thanks so much for this amazing recap—it’s making me *really* want to take a trip to this beautiful country.

Hi there

Thanks for the quality of this report—it makes me want to discover these lands!

Looking forward to more travel journals as well-documented as this one!

Hi Adeline, I just devoured everything in one go. It's magnificent! I've been hearing about the Lofoten Islands for a while now, and Norway is becoming more and more tempting. Your story and photos only confirm this growing desire. Thanks for sharing!

Hi Adeline, I was looking at VF’s reading suggestions and saw a travel journal about Norway. I thought, "Hmm, Norway could be interesting to read about—let’s check it out!" Then I realized it was *you* who wrote it... I find it wild because I rarely read journals that aren’t about the US, and when I do, they’re always yours! I first followed you to the Chamonix Valley (which actually made us want to go there in 2018), then to Montenegro, and now Norway! And your photos... well, I’m just like everyone else—I want to go there now!! I just have one question about the campervan’s side mirror: isn’t there insurance for that kind of accident like in the US?

Thanks to everyone for your messages, that’s really kind of you.

It really makes me happy to share my travels, and between times, I spend some of my free time reading your posts and dreaming over the photos—so it’s only fair to give back! 😛