Rajasthan: Incredible India?

Valérie (Alexval2) convinced me to publish this travel journal about our trip to Rajasthan, so here I go, sharing what will be my first travel journal! 🙂

But first, why India? This question has already been discussed on the forum. For me, I had these idealized images in mind: maharajahs, palaces, elephants, and friends who gave me glowing reviews. We’ve already been to Asia and wanted to do something different. We weren’t disappointed.

So, after spending what felt like hundreds of hours 😛 researching forums, blogs, and various guides, the Rajasthan region stood out as the perfect choice for a first discovery.

We managed to plan this itinerary, which is quite classic but structured around a must-see: the Pushkar Camel Fair. I’d read reviews and watched videos about it, all very enticing. We’ll see later how it turned out.



As usual, I had everything booked in advance because I don’t like wasting time looking for solutions once we’re there.

Our Air France flight arrived on time at 11:15 PM. We’d read the recommendations, and after collecting our luggage, we headed to the prepaid taxi booth. We got the receipt, and two charming guys took our suitcases to the taxi. When we arrived at the taxi, they asked for 500 INR for the porter service. Of course, I resisted, and with the driver’s help, we settled on 200 INR. Welcome to India.

We agreed with the friendly driver that he’d pick us up from the hotel (Ibis, great breakfast) for our flight to Jaisalmer. It was 2 AM, we collapsed into bed, but the night was short since we had to wake up at 5 AM.

hi there and good start... a bit short, I’m looking forward to the rest! And that thing with the two cute porter guys... well, yeah, they try their luck just in case... and that’s already 200 rupees earned for not much... was the lesson learned for the rest of the trip? 😉

Oh nice, it's starting!!! 😎

Awesome!! A new travel journal is starting!! Slowly but surely, I hope!!! The hardest part is getting it started, so bring on the rest!! Thanks. Mariejo

On the way to Jaisalmer

We had a short night, but we're excited to discover our first destination, and the (Indian) breakfast was good—the hotel, being near the airport, is set up to serve early breakfasts. Our driver was waiting for us at the agreed time, and we quickly arrived at Terminal 1 of the airport.

No, that’s not mist on the tarmac.



The SpiceJet flight took off on time, and 1 hour and 20 minutes later, we landed in Jaisalmer at 10 AM, where our driver for the duration of the trip was waiting for us. We booked through www.indechauffeur.fr, whose correspondent in France, Sandrine, was responsive and attentive. Our driver was Vinod—calm, considerate, full of humor, and with a perfect knowledge of the region. He greatly contributed to the success of our stay.

Jaisalmer is nicknamed the Golden City (several cities we’ll visit have a nickname). The citadel overlooks the city and the Thar Desert. The photo isn’t great, but you can get a sense of the environment and catch a glimpse of some of the fort’s 99 bastions.



We checked into the KB Lodge hotel, outside the fort. The welcome was warm, and we were offered our first chai. The street is very lively, but it calms down in the evening.



We took a breather to adjust to the various noises and smells, which were a bit overwhelming at first. Then we set off to visit the Havelis, those grand residences built for merchants or dignitaries. The facades are beautifully carved, though the interiors seemed more ordinary to me.

We started with Patwon Ki Haveli (reputed to be the most beautiful).









Then Nathmal Ki Haveli.





Of course, the omnipresence of cows really struck us.







We ended the evening at the Pleasant Haveli restaurant, which is in our top 3—friendly welcome, attentive service, and exquisite food (one of the places where they really made it "not spicy" for my wife).

The next day, we visited the fort.



It was crowded because it was school holidays in India.





Unfortunately, we couldn’t visit the Jain temples, as they were closed to tourists that day.

The next day, it's the fort visit. Lots of people because it's school holidays in India.



Wow, that’s something else!!! Knowing those narrow alleys, it must’ve been quite the challenge😛

Jaisalmer (continued and concluded)

The streets are full of discoveries.

The spaghetti of threads



Poverty



The highly popular means of transport (I would’ve gladly left with it).



Ganesh, protector of the home, found on many houses



A local SME.



The former palace of the maharajahs, Rajmahal Palace.



And finally, the cenotaphs (funerary monuments that don’t contain the bodies) of Bada Bagh, generally belonging to the maharajahs’ families. The pyramidal cenotaphs are older than the domed ones. I didn’t like them: the monuments are comparatively less intricate, they all look alike (well, I’m no cenotaph expert 🙂), and the surroundings are dirty.





We ended the day at the Pleasant Haveli restaurant, still excellent.

The next day, it's the fort visit. Lots of people because it's school holidays in India.

Wow, that’s something else!!! Knowing the narrow alleys, it must’ve been quite the challenge😛

It was just the entrance that was packed—after that, it was fine.

The highly popular means of transport (I would’ve loved to go with it).



Word for word what I heard not so long ago😇

Jodhpur

In India, there’s one essential driving accessory: the horn.



And Indians follow the recommendations on the back of trucks to the letter—😏

After 5 hours on the road, we arrive in Jodhpur, nicknamed the Blue City. There are several explanations (though none certain) for why so many houses are painted blue. We’ll just enjoy the lovely contrast of these historic center homes.

We drop our bags at Karma Heritage Guesthouse. The welcome is friendly, and the room is beautifully decorated and very clean. The car did have a bit of trouble getting through, though.



Stunning view of the fortress from the rooftop.



We wander the streets and stumble upon this little city map.



We visit our first stepwell, Toorj Ka Jhalra.





No, he’s not dead.



A stroll through Sadar Market and the Clock Tower.





Some recommendations for you, ladies—😏



We end the evening at Jankhar Choti restaurant. We let ourselves be tempted by the man in the beret (the owner), who speaks French well and promotes his restaurant and the Kaju curry. Friendly service, delicious food with just the right amount of spice. We’ll happily go back.

The next day, we wake up early for a packed day.

Our driver meets us at Sadar Market, still half-asleep.



Off to the cenotaph of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II, Jaswant Thada. Since it’s early, there are almost no tourists. The setting is bucolic, the white marble cenotaph looks more like a palace than a mausoleum, and the view of the fortress is stunning. In short, I loved it.





Don’t forget to take off your shoes. The interior is quite minimalist, with portraits of the different maharajas.







And what a view!

Jodhpur (continued and concluded)

Next, we head up to the Mehrangarh Fort, with an impressive view from below.





A phone is essential here.



Inside the fort, the facades are intricately crafted, reminiscent of the havelis in Jaisalmer.







Inside, the decorations are stunning.







It’s the real deal.



Lots of families visiting.



We then continue with a visit to Umaid Bhawan Palace. Maharaja Umaid Singh had it built to alleviate unemployment and famine in Jodhpur during the 1930s (and maybe to treat himself too?😎°. The Umaid Bhawan is divided into three parts: the maharaja’s residence, the hotel, and the museum on the ground floor. You can also see the maharajas’ cars displayed near the gardens. Only the museum is open to visitors. IMHO, you can skip it if you’re in a hurry.





Crowded at the museum too.



The interior seemed pretty ordinary to me. The paintings were what I found most interesting.





The day ends at Jankhar Choti restaurant, where we dine on the rooftop with a stunning view of the fort.

Hi there, and thanks for the photos—they’re stunning! I didn’t know about that well, nor had I ever seen the city map... definitely something for me to discover next time! Thanks for this travel journal; it’s always fascinating to revisit places we love and see how others experienced them!

For my part, I have a memory of Jaswant Mahal in February 2019 with a beautiful early-morning concert by Yom... pure bliss!

Pushkar

We left early in the morning for the 4-hour drive to Pushkar.

We made a stop at the cenotaphs in Mandore Gardens, where we were greeted by families of monkeys.



The site, which was the cremation ground for the region’s royal families, is very popular with school groups.



The various buildings are closely monitored.



The Michelin guide only gives this site one star. I really liked this collection of red sandstone buildings, though.









We hit the road again after passing the equivalent of the Saint-Arnoult toll barrier. 🙂



In Pushkar, we stayed at Vidhya Haveli, a modest guesthouse run by a friendly family. The room was very clean, close to the main street but without the noise. No breakfast included, so we headed to Narayan nearby—excellent food, but slow service.

I’d included Pushkar in our itinerary for the Camel Fair (actually dromedaries, though). I had high expectations—maybe too high.

The camels we saw were either used for transporting tourists



or could be observed in the designated camel area.







The real stars of the fair were the horses—far outnumbering the camels



and the focus of all the bargaining.



No major regrets, though—the town itself is lovely.

The lake is small. Worth noting: we weren’t hassled by scams or priests at the ghats.



Behind the scenes.

The Jain temples of Ranakpur and Kumbhalgarh Fort

Following Vinod’s advice, we changed our day’s destination to start with the Jain temples of Ranakpur. After a 5-hour drive, we arrived at the most renowned temple, the Adinath Temple, one of the deities of the Jain religion. Built in the 15th century, this all-white marble temple was my first highlight of the trip. You can only admire the finesse of the sculptures and various ornaments, including those of the dome. The audio guide is very well done.



















We headed to the hotel negotiated by Vinod: the Ranakpur Safari Resort. Friendly welcome, impeccable room, and an excellent breakfast—all for 50 €. Dinner was also high quality.

The next day, a good hour’s drive took us to Kumbhalgarh Fort. Also built in the 15th century, the fort is impressive atop its hill. The interior of the palace is more ordinary.





Lots of Indian tourists





The view of the Aravalli Mountains is stunning.





The fort from the ramparts



We hit the road again toward Udaipur and passed a *noria* (waterwheel).

I love the decor!



And the tattoos!

Udaipur (Part 1)

If you're reading this, thanks for your patience while I catch up on this travel journal—it's moving at the speed of a 😏 camel!

After the Kumbhalgarh fortress, we arrive in Udaipur after a 2.5-hour drive. Our room at Kotra Haveli is waiting for us. The welcome is friendly, and our room smells nice (sounds trivial, but it’s a relief after the typical street smells of India).

The room is very clean, and the Indian breakfast is excellent.

View of the Palace from the rooftop.



We head to Monsoon Palace, built to observe the arrival of the monsoon clouds.

We’re greeted by monkeys, right in the middle of their meal.



We enjoy the view of the city, nicknamed the White City, and rightly so.



Lots of people gathered to watch the sunset.





The next day starts with a nice walk around Fateh Sagar Lake.

One of the islands with the garden (Nehru Park)



After a few morning ablutions,



We can take a boat ride



and visit the library



or grab a bite to eat.



Next, we head to Sahelion Ki Bari garden. It’s hot, so this is a really pleasant break.





We continue with a visit to the maharajahs’ car collection. In the end, there aren’t many cars, so it’s not worth the 350 Rs they ask for.

Here’s my favorite.



We have lunch at Navraj for a very spicy thali.

We wrap up the day with a visit to Jagdish Temple, dedicated to Vishnu.







The alms-giving helps feed the poor.



Beautiful play of light.

Udaipur (continued and concluded).

Today, it's the City Palace that's on the agenda.





I’m not posting photos of the palace interior since Valérie (Alexval2) already did a fantastic write-up on it.

I really liked the simplicity of the courtyard after the grandeur of the palace rooms.



The view of Lake Pichola and the Taj Lake Palace is stunning.





Udaipur is also known as the City of Lakes. We continued with a boat ride on Lake Pichola. Since there were no spots left from the City Palace dock, we took the boat from Lal Ghat; it doesn’t stop at Jag Mandir (but it’s also half the price of the City Palace boat).





The Taj Lake Palace



Jag Mandir



Next, we visited the ghats.







We ended the day at Bagore Ki Haveli for the 7 PM show (you can buy tickets in advance).

It’s super touristy, but the performance is fun—music, singing, and dancing take turns.

The highlight of the show



We had dinner at Natural restaurant. The nice rooftop doesn’t quite make up for the pretty average food.

Yeah, I was actually wondering if you’d gotten lost in the desert 😛! But no worries, we all know writing a travel journal takes time that just isn’t stretchable when you’re working...

Thanks a million for the story and the gorgeous photos! It lets me see some progress... like how Khumbalgarh has been beautifully renovated. I remember it with the outer walls almost in ruins—it’s great to see that tourist money is actually being put to good use! For Udaipur and the Monsoon Palace, back in the day... (!) it was a radio relay station off-limits to tourists, and we’d slip the guard 20 rupees to get in! How’s it now? With that many tourists in the photo, it must’ve turned into an amazing viewpoint!

Hi Valérie

It’s sweet of you to follow along, and since you mentioned the desert, that’s kind of the vibe I’m getting while writing this travel journal. I’ll keep going, but wow, it’s taking forever!

See you soon

Yeah, when you're keeping a travel journal, it can feel like you're walking alone in the desert. But if you look back, you realize there are people following along...

It’s too bad VF doesn’t let you see how many members are following a thread.

Yes, when you keep a travel journal, it feels like you're walking alone in the desert. But if you look back, you realize there are people following along...

Absolutely, Masterpo, the loneliness of the long-distance runner. 🙂

Jaipur 1

We got up early this morning because a taxi took us to Udaipur Airport for a flight to Jaipur, still with SpiceJet. Vinod was waiting for us at Jaipur Airport, where we quickly picked up our luggage.

Then off to Hawa Mahal, the Palace of Winds.

The entrance





Built in the 18th century, the building allowed women to watch daily life in the street without being seen and to enjoy a breeze provided by the many lattice windows.



It’s called a palace, but it’s really just a façade.



Great view of the city



And the tall minaret.



After a visit to a sari shop for my wife (just to look) and another clothing store where I had a custom shirt made for 25 € 🙂.

Next, we took a cooking class at http://www.pinkcitycookingclass.com/

Dimple and her son Makut, who handled the translation, gave us a warm welcome, and we spent a real moment of connection with this family. We prepared five vegetarian dishes, which we ate on the spot.

We stopped by the Rambagh Palace to book lunch for the next day. Then we settled in at Le Fort Hotel, located in a very quiet residential neighborhood. The staff is friendly, the room was very clean, and the meals there were excellent.

Jaipur 2

We start with a visit to Jantar Mantar, the astronomical observatory. It consists of 17 instruments, some of which are quite large, like this one—a 27-meter-high sundial that allows for time measurements with a precision of 0.5 seconds.



The audio guide is very well done, but it does require some concentration since the explanations are quite technical.





You can see the Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds) in the distance.



Next, we head to the Rambagh Palace, the former residence of the maharajahs turned into a hotel, where our lunch awaits.





Beautiful gardens



There’s even a train/restaurant



The welcome is, of course, top-notch—discreet and attentive.



We had lunch in the garden, in good company.



The food, however, didn’t quite match what we’d had in much less luxurious places. We suspected as much, but we came for the atmosphere and setting, and we weren’t disappointed.

A charming hostess showed us one of the suites, just for the fun of it.



Back in the city center, we stroll through and around the bazaars.













The Albert Hall with a few pigeons.

We end the day at the Raj Mandir, Jaipur’s iconic cinema (it’s wise to book ahead). The decor is very kitsch, and the atmosphere was quieter than described elsewhere. We had a great time (though we left before the movie ended 🙂).

Jaipur 3

Today's highlight: Amber Fort.



Lots of tourists ride up the access ramp on elephants.

I’d read comments about the mistreatment of the animals. We chose not to support it and walked up instead.



We arrive in the main courtyard through the Sun Gate.

Before entering the palace.







The hall of public audiences.



The women’s garden.



The fort is also visited by school groups.



After leaving the fort, we head to the Sri Jagat Shiromani Ji temple. Small temple, no tourists.



Next, we go to Jaigarh Fort, built to protect Amber Fort. In my opinion, it’s only worth it for the view of the fort

and a cannon named Jaivana inside the fort. At the time, it was the largest wheeled cannon in the world.



Back toward the city, stopping at Jal Mahal Palace, a former hunting lodge for the maharajahs. It’s no longer inhabited but remains very photogenic.

A few street vendors around.

We stop at LMB patisserie. Interesting welcome!



After sending our glycemic index through the roof with some pastries, the day ends at the hotel.

Hello, I follow, I follow... your adventures and thank you for the beautiful photos! I’ve never been inside Rambagh Palace, so thanks for taking the photos inside and for the comment about the food—it’s often like that, the most expensive restaurants aren’t the ones that serve the best food! Too bad you didn’t make it to the very pretty *baoli* behind the Sri Jagat Shiromani temple or to the splendid little Anokhi Museum (textile museum) nearby. I recommend it to readers because it’s really worth spending some time there!

Hi Madeleine. Thanks for the compliments.

Too bad you didn’t make it to the really pretty baoli behind the Sri Jagat Shiromani temple

I did, actually—coming up next! 😉

Toward Bharatpur and Agra

Today we’ve got a long drive ahead. We’re leaving Jaipur and heading to the Birla Mandir. The Birlas, a wealthy industrialist family, built several temples in northern India. This one’s dedicated to Vishnu.



Lots of people; there was a ceremony going on.



Next we stop by the Chand Baori Stepwell, which is incredibly well preserved.







The day ends at Lora Guesthouse in Bharatpur—simple lodging, but the welcome was warm, and the food was really good and cheap.

The next day we continue to Fatehpur Sikri. Built in the late 15th century, this short-lived capital was abandoned about fifteen years later due to a lack of water. It’s a ghost town, but it’s very well preserved. We hired a French-speaking guide on-site, and it was a great call. Since I loved the place, I’m sharing tons of photos 😏















Next up is the Jama Masjid mosque.







Then we head to Agra. We visit the Baby Taj, which wasn’t crowded at all.









We’ll be staying at Aman Homestay—great welcome, super clean room, and the meals were delicious and social with other travelers. It’s near the east gate of the Taj Mahal, which will make visiting the 7th wonder of the modern world super convenient (to be continued 🙂).

Agra, Delhi, and the end

You can't miss the sunset at the Taj Mahal. We went to Mehtab Bagh garden (paid entry) behind the Yamuna River before heading back to the hotel to enjoy a delicious dinner.





We read the guides and recommendations carefully, so today we woke up at 5:30 AM for the Taj Mahal. The hotel is close to the entrance gate, and we got there in 20 minutes.

Even at that early hour, there were still quite a few people at the security checks.



We passed through the Great Gate.



And there we were, amazed—along with a few other tourists—by the mausoleum in the morning mist,

lit by the rising sun.



The mosque is on the Taj Mahal’s forecourt.





The monkeys kept us company.



We admired this architectural gem.





And we took one last look at the mausoleum, dressed in white.



We then hit the road for Delhi, where we visited Humayun’s Tomb before catching our flight back to Paris.







Well, that’s the end of this travel journal. I hope those who followed along didn’t get bored.

More than any other country, this trip was a complete culture shock compared to our Western culture. They always say about India: "You either love it or hate it." A few months later, I still don’t know which side I’m on 😕.

I'm so jealous you got water in the Taj Mahal pool ! Anyway, did you finally do that travel journal ? It was really nice for me to find so many things in common but with different photos, so thanks for taking the plunge! For us too, India was one of the most "disorienting" countries, and since that’s what we look for when traveling, we were thrilled! What’s the next project???

Hi, I’ve been following your travel journal from the start and really enjoy it. Thanks! Looking at your photos makes me want to go back to Rajasthan again. Don’t hesitate to explore other regions of India, even though for me Rajasthan remains the most beautiful state in the country for a first trip.

good evening thanks again and congrats on this amazing travel journal kenavo

Hey Valérie

I’m so jealous you got water in the Taj Mahal pool !

I get it, the Taj is still the highlight.

So, did you finally do that travel journal 😉 !

Yeah, but before I started, I had no idea it’d be so time-consuming

What’s the next project ???

Well, Peru at the end of the month.

And congrats again on your travel journal—it’s really interesting. Looking forward to the next ones 😉

Hi there,

I'm glad I could bring back some memories.

Don’t hesitate to explore other regions of India, even though for me Rajasthan remains the most beautiful state in the country for a first trip.

I don’t think I’ll be going back anytime soon—I’ve got a pretty full "bucket list" as the English say.

Best regards,

Hi Eric

Glad you liked it.

Hi Gérard,

I just wanted to chime in on this lovely travel journal to congratulate you on the time you must have taken to write it, and also for the beautiful photos that can only bring back memories for those who’ve already been there. I think Rajasthan is a great part of India for a first visit. We’ve been there twice and always with the same pleasure. If you’d like, I’d be happy to share my thoughts on visiting Machu Picchu in a PM—though I should warn you, I was really disappointed with the visit conditions, not the site itself, of course. Keep up the great work! Josiane

Your trip sounds interesting. However, I’m really bothered by the photos of elephants being used for rides. Same goes for the camels—they’re often exploited and mistreated. For elephants, the training process is horrifying, and I don’t think we should support it anymore.

Hi Gérard,

VoyageForum recommended your travel journal, and I really enjoyed it. I’m very tempted by this region but put off by the visa formalities. 🤪

How many days did your trip last?

Best,

really tempted by this region but put off by the visa formalities.

The visa is indeed a bit of a hassle, but with the e-visa, you don’t even need to leave your home...

I might be butting in where I’m not needed, but Rajasthan is so "rich" that a visa is really just a formality. The reward is totally worth it....

Pascal, The mistreatment of animals is a concern, but before that, we should look at the human suffering in many parts of the world. As for the animals you’re worried about, in the so-called civilized world, we should also consider how racehorses are treated, in particular.

As for camels, in many countries—including India—they often end up as stew.

Gérard, Thanks for this travel journal—it brings back memories of our trip to Rajasthan in April 2013. We didn’t go for an adventure but opted for a private tour, which saved us time on finding guides, transportation, and accommodation when time was tight.

We explored the region (without Udaipur) by car, and that drive was the only disappointment of the trip: the landscapes were completely uninteresting. Almost flat, no relief. On the other hand, the cities were stunning, as were the hotels we stayed in—former maharajas’ palaces, especially Samode Palace.

Thanks again for this post, and enjoy planning your trip to Peru—there’s so much to see! We went in 2010 with a local tour operator who took us from north to south and east to west!!! The north, which is less well-known, might be the most interesting region to visit, with its archaeological sites and mountains. The only letdown was the Uros Islands—they felt a bit too "manufactured" for tourism. Bon voyage.

I just finished reading your whole travel journal.

It’s gorgeous—I’d leave tomorrow morning, but the trip isn’t until February. So far away… A huge thank you for taking the time to write and for the photos. It helps me narrow down which of the many sites to visit.

Enjoy your stay in Peru.

Well done and thanks for this amazing travel journal—it’s so interesting and packed with beautiful photos. A special shout-out to the Chand Baori Stepwell!! Michel

Amazing travel journal (read it all the way through!) with some gorgeous photos! Especially the wells... None of which were on our company trip itinerary back in 2010! On the other hand, the hookah smoker in Jodhpur is clearly the same guy!!! Thanks for sharing!

Thank you for making these reading moments so magical with your beautiful photos of your trip to Rajasthan. I was able to travel non-stop through your story and revisit all those wonderful sites and monuments I know well from often exploring Rajasthan with Indian friends from Pushkar. I also really appreciated the details you shared about your restaurants and hotels—info that can really help. Thanks again! I love India and feel right at home there!

Hi there, Thanks for taking the time to write (so well) and for the gorgeous photos you attached. I’ve been there twice—North India and South India—and they’re totally different. The Taj Mahal was a real shock; we’ve seen it so many times in photos, and then suddenly, you’re there in person. I had a hard time believing it was real.

I read everything, and it brought back so many memories and great encounters. Kénavo! Anne

Thanks for this beautiful story... From India, I only know the south—Kerala and Tamil Nadu—a real crush for this region. Fewer spectacular buildings (though there are some stunning temples), but amazing day-to-day encounters...

Thanks so much Gérard for sharing all of this with us. Lots of memories, but also a wonderful discovery—the stepwells! We only saw a small one on our route, nothing as spectacular as this, and I really regret it! Wishing you all the best in your travels :)

Hello everyone,

I’m back on VF after a somewhat hectic end of the year.

I’m thrilled to see that my travel journal was read 😏 and brought back some great memories for some of you.

I’ll take this opportunity to wish everyone (it’s that time of year!) a happy and wonderful 2020. Gérard