Rajasthan: Incredible India? (page 1 of 3)

Valérie (Alexval2) convinced me to publish this travel journal about our trip to Rajasthan, so here I go, sharing what will be my first travel journal! 🙂

But first, why India? This question has already been discussed on the forum. For me, I had these idealized images in mind: maharajahs, palaces, elephants, and friends who gave me glowing reviews. We’ve already been to Asia and wanted to do something different. We weren’t disappointed.

So, after spending what felt like hundreds of hours 😛 researching forums, blogs, and various guides, the Rajasthan region stood out as the perfect choice for a first discovery.

We managed to plan this itinerary, which is quite classic but structured around a must-see: the Pushkar Camel Fair. I’d read reviews and watched videos about it, all very enticing. We’ll see later how it turned out.



As usual, I had everything booked in advance because I don’t like wasting time looking for solutions once we’re there.

Our Air France flight arrived on time at 11:15 PM. We’d read the recommendations, and after collecting our luggage, we headed to the prepaid taxi booth. We got the receipt, and two charming guys took our suitcases to the taxi. When we arrived at the taxi, they asked for 500 INR for the porter service. Of course, I resisted, and with the driver’s help, we settled on 200 INR. Welcome to India.

We agreed with the friendly driver that he’d pick us up from the hotel (Ibis, great breakfast) for our flight to Jaisalmer. It was 2 AM, we collapsed into bed, but the night was short since we had to wake up at 5 AM.

hi there and good start... a bit short, I’m looking forward to the rest! And that thing with the two cute porter guys... well, yeah, they try their luck just in case... and that’s already 200 rupees earned for not much... was the lesson learned for the rest of the trip? 😉

Oh nice, it's starting!!! 😎

Awesome!! A new travel journal is starting!! Slowly but surely, I hope!!! The hardest part is getting it started, so bring on the rest!! Thanks. Mariejo

On the way to Jaisalmer

We had a short night, but we're excited to discover our first destination, and the (Indian) breakfast was good—the hotel, being near the airport, is set up to serve early breakfasts. Our driver was waiting for us at the agreed time, and we quickly arrived at Terminal 1 of the airport.

No, that’s not mist on the tarmac.



The SpiceJet flight took off on time, and 1 hour and 20 minutes later, we landed in Jaisalmer at 10 AM, where our driver for the duration of the trip was waiting for us. We booked through www.indechauffeur.fr, whose correspondent in France, Sandrine, was responsive and attentive. Our driver was Vinod—calm, considerate, full of humor, and with a perfect knowledge of the region. He greatly contributed to the success of our stay.

Jaisalmer is nicknamed the Golden City (several cities we’ll visit have a nickname). The citadel overlooks the city and the Thar Desert. The photo isn’t great, but you can get a sense of the environment and catch a glimpse of some of the fort’s 99 bastions.



We checked into the KB Lodge hotel, outside the fort. The welcome was warm, and we were offered our first chai. The street is very lively, but it calms down in the evening.



We took a breather to adjust to the various noises and smells, which were a bit overwhelming at first. Then we set off to visit the Havelis, those grand residences built for merchants or dignitaries. The facades are beautifully carved, though the interiors seemed more ordinary to me.

We started with Patwon Ki Haveli (reputed to be the most beautiful).









Then Nathmal Ki Haveli.





Of course, the omnipresence of cows really struck us.







We ended the evening at the Pleasant Haveli restaurant, which is in our top 3—friendly welcome, attentive service, and exquisite food (one of the places where they really made it "not spicy" for my wife).

The next day, we visited the fort.



It was crowded because it was school holidays in India.





Unfortunately, we couldn’t visit the Jain temples, as they were closed to tourists that day.

The next day, it's the fort visit. Lots of people because it's school holidays in India.



Wow, that’s something else!!! Knowing those narrow alleys, it must’ve been quite the challenge😛

Jaisalmer (continued and concluded)

The streets are full of discoveries.

The spaghetti of threads



Poverty



The highly popular means of transport (I would’ve gladly left with it).



Ganesh, protector of the home, found on many houses



A local SME.



The former palace of the maharajahs, Rajmahal Palace.



And finally, the cenotaphs (funerary monuments that don’t contain the bodies) of Bada Bagh, generally belonging to the maharajahs’ families. The pyramidal cenotaphs are older than the domed ones. I didn’t like them: the monuments are comparatively less intricate, they all look alike (well, I’m no cenotaph expert 🙂), and the surroundings are dirty.





We ended the day at the Pleasant Haveli restaurant, still excellent.

The next day, it's the fort visit. Lots of people because it's school holidays in India.

Wow, that’s something else!!! Knowing the narrow alleys, it must’ve been quite the challenge😛

It was just the entrance that was packed—after that, it was fine.

The highly popular means of transport (I would’ve loved to go with it).



Word for word what I heard not so long ago😇

Jodhpur

In India, there’s one essential driving accessory: the horn.



And Indians follow the recommendations on the back of trucks to the letter—😏

After 5 hours on the road, we arrive in Jodhpur, nicknamed the Blue City. There are several explanations (though none certain) for why so many houses are painted blue. We’ll just enjoy the lovely contrast of these historic center homes.

We drop our bags at Karma Heritage Guesthouse. The welcome is friendly, and the room is beautifully decorated and very clean. The car did have a bit of trouble getting through, though.



Stunning view of the fortress from the rooftop.



We wander the streets and stumble upon this little city map.



We visit our first stepwell, Toorj Ka Jhalra.





No, he’s not dead.



A stroll through Sadar Market and the Clock Tower.





Some recommendations for you, ladies—😏



We end the evening at Jankhar Choti restaurant. We let ourselves be tempted by the man in the beret (the owner), who speaks French well and promotes his restaurant and the Kaju curry. Friendly service, delicious food with just the right amount of spice. We’ll happily go back.

The next day, we wake up early for a packed day.

Our driver meets us at Sadar Market, still half-asleep.



Off to the cenotaph of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II, Jaswant Thada. Since it’s early, there are almost no tourists. The setting is bucolic, the white marble cenotaph looks more like a palace than a mausoleum, and the view of the fortress is stunning. In short, I loved it.





Don’t forget to take off your shoes. The interior is quite minimalist, with portraits of the different maharajas.







And what a view!

Jodhpur (continued and concluded)

Next, we head up to the Mehrangarh Fort, with an impressive view from below.





A phone is essential here.



Inside the fort, the facades are intricately crafted, reminiscent of the havelis in Jaisalmer.







Inside, the decorations are stunning.







It’s the real deal.



Lots of families visiting.



We then continue with a visit to Umaid Bhawan Palace. Maharaja Umaid Singh had it built to alleviate unemployment and famine in Jodhpur during the 1930s (and maybe to treat himself too?😎°. The Umaid Bhawan is divided into three parts: the maharaja’s residence, the hotel, and the museum on the ground floor. You can also see the maharajas’ cars displayed near the gardens. Only the museum is open to visitors. IMHO, you can skip it if you’re in a hurry.





Crowded at the museum too.



The interior seemed pretty ordinary to me. The paintings were what I found most interesting.





The day ends at Jankhar Choti restaurant, where we dine on the rooftop with a stunning view of the fort.

Hi there, and thanks for the photos—they’re stunning! I didn’t know about that well, nor had I ever seen the city map... definitely something for me to discover next time! Thanks for this travel journal; it’s always fascinating to revisit places we love and see how others experienced them!

For my part, I have a memory of Jaswant Mahal in February 2019 with a beautiful early-morning concert by Yom... pure bliss!

Pushkar

We left early in the morning for the 4-hour drive to Pushkar.

We made a stop at the cenotaphs in Mandore Gardens, where we were greeted by families of monkeys.



The site, which was the cremation ground for the region’s royal families, is very popular with school groups.



The various buildings are closely monitored.



The Michelin guide only gives this site one star. I really liked this collection of red sandstone buildings, though.









We hit the road again after passing the equivalent of the Saint-Arnoult toll barrier. 🙂



In Pushkar, we stayed at Vidhya Haveli, a modest guesthouse run by a friendly family. The room was very clean, close to the main street but without the noise. No breakfast included, so we headed to Narayan nearby—excellent food, but slow service.

I’d included Pushkar in our itinerary for the Camel Fair (actually dromedaries, though). I had high expectations—maybe too high.

The camels we saw were either used for transporting tourists



or could be observed in the designated camel area.







The real stars of the fair were the horses—far outnumbering the camels



and the focus of all the bargaining.



No major regrets, though—the town itself is lovely.

The lake is small. Worth noting: we weren’t hassled by scams or priests at the ghats.



Behind the scenes.

The Jain temples of Ranakpur and Kumbhalgarh Fort

Following Vinod’s advice, we changed our day’s destination to start with the Jain temples of Ranakpur. After a 5-hour drive, we arrived at the most renowned temple, the Adinath Temple, one of the deities of the Jain religion. Built in the 15th century, this all-white marble temple was my first highlight of the trip. You can only admire the finesse of the sculptures and various ornaments, including those of the dome. The audio guide is very well done.



















We headed to the hotel negotiated by Vinod: the Ranakpur Safari Resort. Friendly welcome, impeccable room, and an excellent breakfast—all for 50 €. Dinner was also high quality.

The next day, a good hour’s drive took us to Kumbhalgarh Fort. Also built in the 15th century, the fort is impressive atop its hill. The interior of the palace is more ordinary.





Lots of Indian tourists





The view of the Aravalli Mountains is stunning.





The fort from the ramparts



We hit the road again toward Udaipur and passed a *noria* (waterwheel).

I love the decor!



And the tattoos!

Udaipur (Part 1)

If you're reading this, thanks for your patience while I catch up on this travel journal—it's moving at the speed of a 😏 camel!

After the Kumbhalgarh fortress, we arrive in Udaipur after a 2.5-hour drive. Our room at Kotra Haveli is waiting for us. The welcome is friendly, and our room smells nice (sounds trivial, but it’s a relief after the typical street smells of India).

The room is very clean, and the Indian breakfast is excellent.

View of the Palace from the rooftop.



We head to Monsoon Palace, built to observe the arrival of the monsoon clouds.

We’re greeted by monkeys, right in the middle of their meal.



We enjoy the view of the city, nicknamed the White City, and rightly so.



Lots of people gathered to watch the sunset.





The next day starts with a nice walk around Fateh Sagar Lake.

One of the islands with the garden (Nehru Park)



After a few morning ablutions,



We can take a boat ride



and visit the library



or grab a bite to eat.



Next, we head to Sahelion Ki Bari garden. It’s hot, so this is a really pleasant break.





We continue with a visit to the maharajahs’ car collection. In the end, there aren’t many cars, so it’s not worth the 350 Rs they ask for.

Here’s my favorite.



We have lunch at Navraj for a very spicy thali.

We wrap up the day with a visit to Jagdish Temple, dedicated to Vishnu.







The alms-giving helps feed the poor.



Beautiful play of light.

Udaipur (continued and concluded).

Today, it's the City Palace that's on the agenda.





I’m not posting photos of the palace interior since Valérie (Alexval2) already did a fantastic write-up on it.

I really liked the simplicity of the courtyard after the grandeur of the palace rooms.



The view of Lake Pichola and the Taj Lake Palace is stunning.





Udaipur is also known as the City of Lakes. We continued with a boat ride on Lake Pichola. Since there were no spots left from the City Palace dock, we took the boat from Lal Ghat; it doesn’t stop at Jag Mandir (but it’s also half the price of the City Palace boat).





The Taj Lake Palace



Jag Mandir



Next, we visited the ghats.







We ended the day at Bagore Ki Haveli for the 7 PM show (you can buy tickets in advance).

It’s super touristy, but the performance is fun—music, singing, and dancing take turns.

The highlight of the show



We had dinner at Natural restaurant. The nice rooftop doesn’t quite make up for the pretty average food.

Yeah, I was actually wondering if you’d gotten lost in the desert 😛! But no worries, we all know writing a travel journal takes time that just isn’t stretchable when you’re working...

Thanks a million for the story and the gorgeous photos! It lets me see some progress... like how Khumbalgarh has been beautifully renovated. I remember it with the outer walls almost in ruins—it’s great to see that tourist money is actually being put to good use! For Udaipur and the Monsoon Palace, back in the day... (!) it was a radio relay station off-limits to tourists, and we’d slip the guard 20 rupees to get in! How’s it now? With that many tourists in the photo, it must’ve turned into an amazing viewpoint!

Hi Valérie

It’s sweet of you to follow along, and since you mentioned the desert, that’s kind of the vibe I’m getting while writing this travel journal. I’ll keep going, but wow, it’s taking forever!

See you soon