Discovering the joys of camping in Namibia (page 1 of 30)

This three-week trip to Namibia was a big first for us: - Visiting a country in winter, for someone who starts feeling comfortable at 25°C (77°F). - Camping, when we usually feel at home in a starred hotel. - Sleeping on the roof of a car—what an idea... when a comfy bed is waiting just a bit further. - Grocery shopping, cooking, doing the dishes... all the things we usually avoid to fully enjoy our vacation. - Washing up when and how we can, when we can’t imagine going a day without a shower. - Driving a big 4x4 on the left, with a manual transmission, when we usually opt for an automatic for more comfort.

Yep! You guessed it—we stepped way out of our comfort zone during this trip.

I had quite a few doubts while planning this adventure, but the more I read travel journals about Namibia, the more I wanted to go.

Personally, without this forum, I never would’ve dared to hit the Namibian roads in a 4x4. I was really anxious during the planning, so I want to thank everyone who contributed with their journals and forum discussions for helping me leave more peacefully.

At first, I wasn’t even considering sleeping in a tent. But after my husband’s persuasion—and my own curiosity to experience what I’d read in those travel journals—I gave in. So off we went in a double-cab Hilux with a rooftop tent.

And of course, let’s talk about me—the big cold-weather wimp. One of the biggest pre-trip challenges was choosing a sleeping bag. After a while, sleeping bags had no more secrets for me: temperature ratings (comfort, limit, extreme), shapes (mummy, rectangular), fillings (synthetic, down), compression rate, and weight... all these factors were a real puzzle. In the end, to make sure I wouldn’t be put off camping in winter (Australian winter, mind you), I went for a sleeping bag with a comfort rating of -10°C. And just to be *extra* sure I wouldn’t get cold, I bought a liner (never knew what that was before) in Thermolite, which boosts the sleeping bag’s temperature by 11°C. There are liners that add up to 15°C, but let’s not exaggerate—we’re not heading to the North Pole! My husband, on the other hand, got a sleeping bag with a -5°C comfort rating and a silk liner.

Was it enough? You’ll find out soon. In the meantime, another big thank you to everyone who helped me make this choice with their advice and experience.

Over a year in advance, we planned a three-week itinerary for our first trip to Namibia—classic route, nothing too out there. We chose to do the circuit clockwise because we wanted to finish on a high note in Etosha and its wildlife. They say it’s like Noah’s Ark out there! And why not, the cherry on top... some big cats.

We used Tourmaline’s services to book our accommodations and the 4x4.

Here’s our planned itinerary with campsites and lodgings—yes, there are a few solid roofs in there; we didn’t want to push it too far.

Day 1: Windhoek – Windhoek Gardens Guesthouse Day 2: Kalahari Anib Campsite Day 3: Namibrand Family Hideout Day 4: Sesriem Camp Day 5: Sesriem Camp Day 6: Rostock Ritz Camp Day 7: Swakopmund - Sea Breeze Guesthouse Day 8: Swakopmund - Sea Breeze Guesthouse Day 9: Spitzkoppe Camp Tented Day 10: Brandberg White Lady Campsite Day 11: Grootberg Lodge Day 12: Opuwo Country Campsite Day 13: Epupa Camp Day 14: Hobatere Lodge Day 15: Etosha Olifantsrus Camp Day 16: Etosha Okaukuejo Camp Day 17: Etosha Halali Camp Day 18: Etosha Namutoni Camp Day 19: Cheetah Eco Lodge Day 20: Windhoek – Londiningi B&B



Alright! Are you ready to follow this adventure with us in our Hilux?

Saturday, July 27: Lyon / Paris / Johannesburg

This year, the itinerary and accommodation bookings were made well before the flights, so no flexibility on the dates. Oh well, we’re used to it since summer holidays are always set for the first three weeks of August. We booked with Air France in early October—it wasn’t the cheapest, but we had vouchers to use worth 350 € each, which brought the round-trip price to just over 1100 €, making it competitive compared to other airlines.

Here we go, the suitcases are packed: "Are you sure you haven’t forgotten anything?" "Well… no, but I packed everything we were told to bring…"

So off we go (with a little apprehension on my part) to Lyon Airport to catch the direct TGV to Roissy. It’s 5:30 PM when we arrive at the reserved parking lot outside the airport. A shuttle takes us directly to the station in 10 minutes.

We get to Roissy at 8:30 PM—the TGV station is right next to Terminal 2E, where we need to board. After dropping off our bags, a quick stamp for immigration, and going through security, we’re at the departure gate in an hour and a half. Boarding starts at 10:30 PM for a scheduled takeoff at 11:20 PM.

We’d booked seats at the back of the plane so we’d only be two instead of three on the side. Nice—no disturbances while we sleep, plus a little extra space on the side.

After grabbing a meal and watching a movie, we manage to sneak in a few hours of sleep since the flight to Johannesburg lasts over 10 hours.

To pass the time during the flight, here are some photos of the landscapes we spotted:











And some animals we encountered:













For those who don’t feel like reading the comments or listening to the chit-chat... The rest is here

Hey Isabelle,

Quick, quick, I’m jumping in while there’s still plenty of space in the 4x4 (and not just on the roof 😛). I’ll be following this closely because some of your initial doubts really resonate with me 😎 (especially:

- Visiting a country in winter for someone who only starts feeling comfortable above 25°C.

- Grocery shopping, cooking, doing the dishes... basically all the things we usually avoid to fully enjoy our vacations.

- Washing up when you can, however you can...

(not to mention the tricky toilet situation...) Muriel

Welcome Muriel, since we took a double cab, there’s plenty of room in the back 🙂. As for nighttime bathroom trips... another one of my worries, but that sorted itself out because I didn’t get up once during the 3 weeks 😎. Must be psychological, according to my husband, since at home I can’t make it through a single night 🙁.

Hi there,

So, you're all set to start your travel journal on Namibia... Well done, you beat me to it! 😉 I’ll be following along with curiosity and will wait until the end of your trip to post mine... or maybe not. 😎[;]

And looking more closely at the photos, I notice there are even lions.....🙂

Hello Jean Luc, Hop on board, you’ll see it’s not bad sleeping on the roof 😉 . I’m still waiting for your travel journal, though—I’d love to know what you did with your extra week. It’ll give me ideas for next time 😛.

Oh! Yeah, a few here and there... 😎 No, just kidding—we had to drive around, search, and find their hideout. It wasn’t easy to spot them 😕

Hi Isabelle,

Actually, we did more or less the same route as you, but we doubled up on a few stops like Brandberg or Grootberg and stayed 4 nights along the Kunene River. We also spent two nights in Lüderitz. But we didn’t really explore more regions than you did. 😎

Can I hop in the moving car?

We haven't started yet, so get comfortable 😉.

Sunday, July 28: Johannesburg / Windhoek

After breakfast and another movie, it's just after 10 a.m. when we land in Johannesburg. Our flight to Windhoek is at noon. These two hours pass quickly because we have to pick up our boarding passes at the British Airways counter—the line is quite long with only one counter. Air France doesn’t use the same codes as British Airways, even though I bought the tickets on Air France’s website, so we didn’t get them in Roissy. Make sure to say you have luggage in transit, even if the final destination is clearly noted—you have to specify it, otherwise they won’t follow it 🙁.

Luckily, immigration and security went very quickly, so we arrived practically last for boarding. So, it’s best to allow a two-hour layover if you don’t want to stress.

The two-hour flight to Windhoek, operated by British Airways, was smooth. The best part? No time difference with France this season 😎. Windhoek Airport is really tiny—you wouldn’t think you’re in a capital city’s airport.

The wait at immigration was very long—almost an hour before we got our passports stamped. And oh! Joy—our luggage was waiting for us right by the carousel.

We were really worried about the luggage because apparently, there are often issues when you have a stopover in Johannesburg. Even the Tourmaline agency had strongly recommended we bring a change of clothes just in case.

It’s just 3 p.m. when we’re outside, met by a driver from Asco Car Hire. We’re with a family of five, and normally another couple. Unfortunately, their luggage didn’t arrive, and they have to fill out all the declaration forms. We take advantage of the extra time to withdraw some money (you can only withdraw 3000 Rands at a time). The South African Rand is used the same way as the Namibian dollar in Namibia.

It takes about an hour to get to Asco. That’s when I see our Toyota Hilux double cab with a tent on the roof, and I think to myself that this trip is really going to be something special.

We’re greeted by Michael. After completing the formalities with Asco, he explains all the equipment, how the 4x4 works, how the tent operates, and we also rent a small compressor to reinflate the tires. My husband and I look at each other, wondering if the other understood everything—oh well, we’ll see!

Then Michael takes us to Windhoek Gardens GH, where we’re staying tonight because Asco is about to close. He gives us our travel journal, which is very detailed and will be really useful. He also hands us a map with lots of notes, gives us tips on what to do and what not to do... I’m also thinking it’s not a bad idea to have gone through an agency for all these details that help us feel more at ease. Plus, he gives us a SIM card to have a local number so we can reach them if needed. Top-ups are available in supermarkets or most gas stations.

It’s already 6 p.m. when we get our room. After dropping off our luggage, we head to the guesthouse restaurant for dinner. It’s really nice—a wood fire warms the atmosphere because even though it was 24°C when we arrived in Windhoek, it gets quite chilly as soon as the sun sets. We enjoy our first oryx meat.







After dinner, we quickly go to bed, excited for tomorrow to start exploring the Namibian roads.

The rooms at Windhoek Gardens Guesthouse are beautifully decorated, each apparently on a different theme related to Namibia.



For the rest, it's here

YES! Just in time to avoid having to run after the 4x4! Plus, it's a double cab—we've got plenty of space!! Hit the road, Simone! No, Isabelle!

Especially since this almost became my end-of-year destination before, due to a lack of competitively priced flights, another destination was chosen instead. My 4x4 expertise is presumably as high as yours, so I’m *very* interested in your take for 2021!! 😎

Hi Bruno, Hop in the 4x4 while there’s still room in the back 😉. Yeah, I saw Namibia stayed a project for this year 🙁. So! What’s Plan B?

From Manaus to Boipeba, via Fortaleza and Chapada, a lovely Brazilian getaway at the end of the year—I’m right in the middle of planning it! 😛

A destination I’m completely unfamiliar with—I’d really love to get some feedback this time since I’m still waiting on India 😅😅😅

😕 Laziness, lack of time, and a poor internet connection got the better of me... Plus a few family reasons... Mea culpa

No worries, Bruno, I was just teasing you 😉

Hey Isabelle,

Just back from the Stans and already rushing to find a 4x4... ugh, the relentless pace 😉

The travel journal’s off to a great start 😛 Thanks for the quick share 🙂

wow, what luck, this time we're heading to Namibia—I'm on my way! 🙂