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Wild destination: Botswana

Discussion started by JeffSam on 2019-10-13

76 replies

This thread has been translated into English.


Wild destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-10-13

It’s been almost six months since we returned from our 15-day trip to Botswana, ending in front of the majestic Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe.

Our itinerary: 1 night at Maun Lodge in Maun 3 nights in the Central Kalahari at Deception Valley Lodge 1 night at Maun Lodge in Maun 3 nights in the Okavango Delta at Sango Safari Camp 3 nights in Chobe National Park at Chobe Safari Lodge 2 nights at Victoria Falls at A’Zambezi River Lodge

We were on a tight budget, so we opted to rent a vehicle for the Central Kalahari and the Okavango Delta.

The lodges are expensive but all-inclusive—meals, drinks (alcohol included), laundry, and the usual two daily safaris. In short, everything.

The lodges mentioned above offer a very high-end experience, with a guide and a 4x4 for each tent. We shared a 4x4 once at Sango Safari with an English couple.

Another little tip: I’d avoid staying at Chobe Riverfront like we did. It’s extremely touristy and overpriced. I think we should’ve spent one night there for the cruise and two other nights at a lodge deeper in Chobe National Park.

We arrived in Maun after an endless flight: Paris-Frankfurt-Johannesburg-Maun. We headed to the car rental agency to pick up our 4x4, and what a surprise to learn they’d canceled our booking—no vehicle! After 6 hours of waiting, we finally received our 4x4 at our hotel, fell asleep peacefully, and were ready to head to our first destination: the Central Kalahari!

Wild destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-10-13

The central Kalahari:

The reception area facing the common space:





A few photos of our room:





A little bonus in the common areas at night:





And off we go for the safaris! A small sample of the thousands of photos we took:
























Destination wild: Botswana

Risiol · 2019-10-13

Hello

Lovely photos. Looks promising! I’ll try to follow your story. We’re leaving in about two weeks for South Africa and, among other things, spending a few days at Victoria Falls. From here, just getting there already feels like it’ll take forever... Can’t wait to read more!

Wild destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-10-13

Overall, we really liked the Central Kalahari, but it's clearly not the easiest place to spot animals—the bush is dense!

Back to Maun in the morning to fly over the delta for about an hour: Takeoff! Breathtaking landscapes with the bonus of spotting animals from above.






Wild Destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-10-13

After a night in Maun, we're back on the road heading to the Okavango Delta!



A few observations along the way:







We arrive at our lodge:







And off we go for our safaris in the delta:






















Wild Destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-10-13

Delta J2:







































To be continued in the next post...

Wild destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-10-13

End of the second day and start of the third:











A new day begins, full of hope (and we weren’t disappointed!)






























Wild Destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-10-13































And finally, the last day in this exceptional place:










Destination wild: Botswana

Muriel18 · 2019-10-13

Hi Jean-François

Great photo gallery, you were really lucky! 😎 From some of the photos, it looks like you moved between lodges in your 4x4 but did the game drives with the lodge staff? Muriel

Wild destination: Botswana

Sylvie56 · 2019-10-13

Hi Jean-François, Thanks for this travel journal on Botswana with the great photos—the bittern with the frog 🙂

Which lodge were you staying at in the Central Kalahari? I think there are really very few. It’s a place we loved so much, but we were camping.

Wild destination: Botswana

Max68 · 2019-10-13

Hi,

Could you tell us more about where you stayed? 😛

Your photo gallery is amazing! 😎

Wild destination: Botswana

Girardinpho · 2019-10-14

Hi Jean-François,

As I see it, Botswana still lives up to its promises!

Wild destination: Botswana

Rouquine38 · 2019-10-14

Hi Jean François, Wow, what amazing encounters right from the first moments on Botswanan soil! 😎. I’ll be following this travel journal with great interest because Botswana is likely our next destination in Southern Africa 😉.

Wild destination: Botswana

Othellomoto · 2019-10-14

Hi

What camera gear did you use (lens, etc.)?

Thanks

Wild destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-10-14

The 24-hour window has passed...

Yes, Botswana still seems to live up to its promises! We didn’t get lucky enough to see any African wild dogs—we missed them by just 3 days in the delta.

I’ve added the places where we stayed.

As for photo gear, I have a Canon EOS 80D with a Tamron 150-600 and a Tamron 18-400.

Wild destination: Botswana

Max68 · 2019-10-14

Thanks! 🙂

I really like this series.

End of the second day and start of the third:

The ones where you can really see the animals' eyes 😎

You had some amazing moments 😛

Wild Destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-10-18

We’re heading back to Maun reluctantly (gotta say it) to return the car and catch a flight that’ll take us to Kasane, then transfer to Chobe Safari Lodge.

When we arrive at our hotel in Maun, we find out that Air Botswana’s flight is canceled... We look for a solution and find Macair, a company specializing in transfers. It’ll cost us $50 per person (actually cheaper than a flight with the national airline) for a transfer in a small 12-seater single-engine plane. We’ve got a meet-up the next morning for our flight.

Upon arrival, we transfer to the "lodge," which turns out to be a large hotel complex (far from the 8-tent lodges we’re used to).

We settle in, and in the afternoon, we go on a cruise on the Chobe River—a must-do! The elephants swim across the river to move between Botswana and Namibia.

The matriarch looks for the best spot on the bank to cross, then leads her herd across. Everyone crosses, including the little ones. They’re always well surrounded. Under the watchful eyes of the hippos. Then it’s mud-bath time—the sun’s beating down, gotta reapply sunscreen ;-)





We spot lots of animals on the banks:




















Wild Destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-10-18

To wrap up the day (the lodge’s well-oiled routine), the sunset over the acacias After dinner, we sorted through our photos and hit the sack early—we’ve got a 5:45 AM wake-up call for our first 4x4 safari in Chobe National Park.

We got up, headed to reception, and climbed into our 4x4, still in awe of what we’d seen the day before and super excited—until we saw the 30 people waiting... We made our way to the counter, gave our names, and were directed to a 9-seater 4x4. We squeezed in next to seven other people who were already seated. Needless to say, taking photos with a 600mm lens was going to be tricky. Off we went on this "safari" on land...

Our guide mixed up the names of the animals and, more importantly, didn’t stop to let us observe them or take photos. Still, here are the few shots I managed to get:















As you can tell, we were bitterly disappointed with this lodge. The accommodation and food were great, but the safaris felt like a factory. We should’ve done more research.

Back at the lodge, we had a long think about what to do next. Clearly, we’d made a mistake, and we couldn’t see ourselves continuing under these conditions. After some thought, we decided to book private safaris for the rest of our stay.

While we were having coffee at the lodge and mulling things over, we had some visitors: This little guy took advantage of me turning my head to swipe the pack of cigarettes I’d left on the edge of my chair and ran off with them...







We spoke to the safari organizers and booked private safaris for the remaining trips. We decided to redo the Chobe River excursion that afternoon—but just the two of us this time:















All we wanted was to do safaris with smaller groups, but the lodge’s policy is to pack the 4x4s and boats to the brim, so we didn’t have much choice. Looking back, I think we would’ve been better off staying just one night at this lodge and then moving to another one deeper inland.

Destination wild: Botswana

Rouquine38 · 2019-10-18

Hi Jean François, What an amazing moment crossing the Elephant River. It must be both impressive and nerve-wracking to see just the trunks of the little ones above the water 😮. Too bad the Chobe Safari Lodge didn’t live up to expectations for safaris. Still, you had some great wildlife encounters ;).

Wild destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-10-18

The next part of our private tour:







I didn’t have time to zoom in for the next one, unfortunately...















And we’re wrapping up our boat tour with these images. Tomorrow, our first private 4x4 safari—we can’t wait!

5:45 AM, it stings a bit, but we’re excited. Cameras are out, batteries fully charged, and we’re ready! Good thing the camera was ready—after a few minutes, a lioness comes to check out all the early-morning racket! A little later, we find her with her friends:









Then, as we venture deeper into the park:

It’s a bit annoying having a 20-photo limit and only being able to upload one at a time...

Wild destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-10-18

A few more little encounters before heading back to the lodge























Then a friendly park ranger guided us to the exit



Round trip back to the lodge to prepare for departure to Victoria Falls.

Wild destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-10-18

We couldn’t do a Botswana trip without making a little detour to Victoria Falls. We hit the road toward Zimbabwe, crossed the border in a rather quirky way, then headed to check in at the hotel.

First stop in front of a thousand-year-old baobab (1,500 years old, according to our guide).



After settling into the lodge, we headed to the heliport—yes, we splurged to see the falls from the sky by helicopter (and honestly, it was worth every penny!).









Absolutely magical—if you can, I highly recommend it.

That evening, a little cruise on the Zambezi.











A good night’s sleep at the hotel, and before heading back to France, a quick visit to the base of the falls in the park:







And even there, we had a few encounters.







A beautiful statue of Livingstone, who gave his name to a town near the falls.

That wraps up my story of our trip to Botswana—it’s a stunning country, and the encounters with both animals and people are rich and breathtaking.

Wild destination: Botswana

Calypso494 · 2019-11-15

Hi there,

I read your travel story carefully and I’d love to know what your all-inclusive budget was for the trip. Thanks so much for your reply! Best, Claire

Wild destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-11-15

Hi there,

We spent just under 9,300 € for two people—flights, vehicle, accommodation, food, and drinks all included.

Wild Destination: Botswana

Ching · 2019-12-22

If it's to see wildlife through windows or from above?... There are some great zoos in France.// You come as a tourist, you're treated like a tourist. Cutting corners on the service is like wearing size 40 shoes when you take a size 42.

Destination wild: Botswana

Chic35 · 2019-12-22

Hi there,

The photos are absolutely stunning! What camera gear were they taken with? DSLR, mirrorless? Lenses? Thanks in advance,

Wild destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-12-22

Hi,

Thanks, Botswana’s wildlife makes for some incredible shots.

I use a Canon EOS 80D DSLR and two Tamron lenses—a 18-400 and a 150-600.

Wild destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-12-22

Hello,

Sorry, but I don’t understand your message

Wild destination: Botswana

Francine75 · 2019-12-22

Hi,

Wow, the photos!!!! Amazing! Magazine-worthy! Well done

Destination Wild: Botswana

Zezettedez · 2019-12-23

yet another wildlife documentary with the guy who has the biggest I still don’t get the point

Wild destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-12-23

Hi Valérie,

Why react if you don’t get the appeal?

Wild destination: Botswana

Max68 · 2019-12-23

Well, you don’t have to read it, no pressure 😉

We love it—it makes us dream and/or brings back great memories 😎

Wild destination: Botswana

Zezettedez · 2019-12-23

hey jf on this forum, do we only react if we like something? sorry, I don’t mean anything against you, but it still makes me laugh—the contest for the best camera and zoom. it’s true that maybe I’m too jaded and I don’t take photos anymore, and I can say exactly where I saw this or that predator or other amazing animal in all the parks I’ve visited—no pretension, that’s just how my life is

Destination wild: Botswana

Francine75 · 2019-12-23

Not cool for those who kindly share their experiences.... There are always grumps (you’d think they do it on purpose to clutter up discussions) who think they’re clever by posting completely stupid and mean things.

Wild destination: Botswana

Max68 · 2019-12-23

It’s just that after getting so many unpleasant comments, we feel less and less like sharing... who really benefits from having an empty exchange forum? 😕

That’s also one of the reasons there are so many "lurkers"—people come but don’t participate anymore. They just take the info or ask questions in DMs. Such a shame...

Wild destination: Botswana

Francine75 · 2019-12-23

It’s just that after constantly receiving unpleasant remarks, we feel less and less like sharing... who benefits from having an empty exchange forum 😕.

It’s also one of the reasons that’s led to so many "lurkers"; people come but no longer participate, they just take information or ask questions in DMs—it’s really a shame...

I completely agree with you. Every time I come to this forum, there’s always someone who makes snide remarks. They do it on purpose.... Other than avoiding the forum and missing out on some great tips, there’s no other solution.....

Wild destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-12-23

hey jf on this forum, do we only react if we like something? sorry, I don’t mean anything against you, but it still makes me laugh—the contest for the best camera and zoom it’s true that I might be too jaded and I don’t take photos anymore, and I can say exactly where I saw this or that predator or other exceptional animal in all the parks I’ve visited—no pretension, that’s just how my life is

First off, we don’t know each other, so I think it’s best to keep things formal.

On this forum, we share experiences, give ideas, tips, exchange stories, and show through our photos what we’ve been lucky enough to see and where... there’s no competition, just sharing experiences.

At least, that’s what I thought before your comment.

Wild destination: Botswana

Zezettedez · 2019-12-23

hey jf I think it’s more useful to have practical info rather than just beautiful photos—though I’m not denying their quality. Knowing the condition of a particular track, how to get from one place to another, how long it takes—stuff that can help independent travelers or those on organized trips plan their journey.

Destination wild: Botswana

Zezettedez · 2019-12-23

hey there sorry for the offense in Quebec, everyone uses *tu* with everyone without being stoned to death it’s not condescending

Destination wild: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-12-23

What I did in my first post—if people who are interested have questions, I’ll answer them. So I still don’t understand why you’re intervening in a topic that doesn’t interest you, no less.

I took the liberty of pointing this out because it seems clear to me that you’re trying to troll, and as a result, these exchanges are simply uninteresting.

Wild destination: Botswana

Zezettedez · 2019-12-23

hi I still don’t know what "troller" means I just mean that everyone’s photo reports don’t bring anything practical

Wild destination: Botswana

Bluequark · 2019-12-23

Hi there,

Thanks for this travel journal and the lovely photos that go with it. One day, I’ll go to Botswana ;)

Wild Destination: Botswana

Blesl · 2019-12-23

Hello Jean-François,

I really appreciate your beautiful photos, taken with equipment that’s certainly expensive, but it’s all relative when you consider the cost of a safari. Personally, I think that beyond their aesthetic value, photos give friends an idea of what you can encounter, observe, and how you can make the most of it—whether through photography or just watching. And sharing them is a real gift for those of us who love seeing wildlife in its natural habitat, something zoos and animal parks just can’t offer. Your photos do exactly that. Your photos and the observations—good or bad—that you share about accommodations and game-drive conditions make for a travel journal that’s both enjoyable and informative. Thank you for that!

If you’ve got more to share, we’d all (well, 99.9% of us) love to see it.

Happy holidays!

BL

PS: I don’t know you, and I’m not Canadian, *tabernacle*! But I don’t usually use formal address on forums unless someone specifically asks for it.

Wild destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-12-23

Thanks for your messages—they’re really encouraging and make me want to keep sharing my experiences and photos.

We’re on the same page about photography and the appeal of travel journals, Bernard.

My next journal will be about the Yucatán, as soon as I find the time to put it together.

And I’m finalizing my upcoming trip to Sri Lanka, where I hope to bring back just as many great memories and beautiful photos as I did from Africa.

Wild destination: Botswana

Chic35 · 2019-12-23

And here I was, naively asking originally what gear the photos were taken with... only to find a brawl that replays all the Facebook "codes"—insults, "autocorrect fails" like "d’aurtaugraffe," It’s really disappointing! Still, we’re planning a trip to Botswana and I’d love to hear about your experiences, itineraries, and... photos... that make my mouth water! Come on, let’s get back on track without any out-of-place criticism?

Wild destination: Botswana

Voyajou · 2019-12-24

It's true you've got a big one (as Zezette would say), but you don't flaunt it with your lens. Plus, you've got a great eye, and if you gain some altitude, there's no hint of condescension when others fly low.

@Zezettedez, you don't like photo reports and think practical info is better? Do you know the difference between a travel journal and a guidebook? Since you've lived in Botswana for sixteen years and visited so many parks, why not share some of your great tips with us?

Wild destination: Botswana

Atila · 2019-12-29

Based on some of the photos, it looks like you moved from one lodge to another in your 4x4 but did the game drives with the lodge staff?

The answer wasn’t given, it seems, but apparently that’s a yes.

This wasn’t a self-drive trip but a semi-organized one, which explains the high cost mentioned for the stay.

The rented vehicle replaces the fly-in option, which would have further increased the already substantial budget.

Destination wild: Botswana

Atila · 2019-12-29

A photo intrigues me: your avatar. What is it???

Wild destination: Botswana

JeffSam · 2019-12-29

Hey,

My bunny licking my head...

Wild Destination: Botswana

Atila · 2019-12-29

I was torn between getting dreadlocks and a shrunken Davy Crockett hat...🤪

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