Istanbul, Men and Cats

Sunday, October 20, 2019

Glancing at the Bosphorus through the bay window of my room, I absentmindedly scatter my things while quietly settling in. Then I turn around, looking for my passport, my cash, my camera battery, eager to join the buzz of the street below. But for the past few minutes, I’ve felt a presence—something moved on the balcony. Suddenly, I spot a black-and-white furball half-hidden behind a pot, nearby. I approach to introduce myself: "Here, kitty, kitty..." I don’t know how to say "kitty" in Turkish, but the rather rude furball hisses in my face, and its ridiculous little tail doubles in size. Okay. Not friendly. I grab what’s within reach—a cream capsule—and offer it as a peace offering. It lunges at me, swipes the object away with a quick paw, and scratches me in the process.

I’m in Istanbul *



* For the title of my travel journal, I was inspired by the lovely film: "Kedi, Cats and Men" by Ceyda Torum

I need to get two things right away: cat food and the Istanbulkart.

I rush down the narrow stairs of the building and find myself in the middle of Kaldirim Caddesi, a street that climbs toward Galata Tower and descends to the ferry dock. There’s shouting, singing, laughter, music playing, tea drinking, eating—it’s overwhelming, and I don’t know where to start.

As I wander through the maze of cobblestone streets leading to Taksim Square, I come across stray dogs. They seem harmless and have tags on their ears. They all look like brothers! Except for that one with an unusual quirk...



But what about the cats? According to the city, 165,000 stray cats live here. They’re not chased away—instead, they’re pampered by locals and around 420 municipal employees! Istanbul residents take care of the cats in their neighborhoods, and the city ensures their well-being through six dedicated care centers.



Back to our charming districts, from Karaköy to Beyoglu. I walk up Istiklal Street, a pedestrian-only stretch spanning 3 km, lined with hundreds of shops, art galleries, theaters, churches, cafés, chocolatiers, and restaurants. A display of towering pastries catches my eye, but—pathetic—I bolt, thinking about the extra pounds that’ll cozy up on my hips this winter.

The aroma of a certain coffee sharpens my taste buds. We settle onto a terrace and order the famous nectar.



It’s served with a glass of water and a little sweet treat. I take a sip but quickly realize I’ll have to wait a bit 😕 My travel companion is torturing me with her cigarette. - Vacation - Turkey - Terrace - Coffee - Relaxation - Letting go - Enjoying the moment - I passed on the honey-dripping cake, but I’m going to cave for that cigarette—it’ll be the best one of my life. I don’t feel like dealing with my cravings right now! (Actually, ever since I quit smoking, I’ve become a *CDA*—*Crazy Deprived Addict*.)





In Istanbul, it’s common to see cats claiming the best spots. No one would dream of shooing away a tomcat comfortably settled on a café terrace. Of course, not only do I not chase him away to sit down, but I also enjoy his presence (here, I didn’t pay to pet him )

Cats as a common thread to guide you through the streets of Istanbul—I love that! 🙂

What does CDA stand for?

(Actually, ever since I quit smoking I’ve become CDA)

Hi Kate,

I’m diving into this new travel journal with gusto.

As a former smoker, could I be CDA without knowing it? What does that mean?

Régis, Yolande, it's nice of you to follow along.

CDA? Creeps Doing Anywhere

Well, I guess I’m not then 🙂

Yolande, Régis, have you been to Istanbul? Yolande, I can’t remember if you went there when you traveled through southern Turkey. I’m asking because I feel like I’m the last one to have discovered this city!

Not unknown to me either!

No, I went to Istanbul about fifteen years ago. It’s a city that really won me over. Its location on the Bosphorus, its monuments, and the life of the city. I loved everything about it!

I loved everything about it!

It's funny—I think it's the city in the world that attracts me the least. Or maybe it's Bucharest...

But anyway, I loved *Kedi*, and so far, the feline side of things is great. Honestly, the rest doesn’t do much for me.

Oh well, I loved Kedi, and so far, when it comes to felines, it's all good.

That’s all I’ll remember 😛

I’ll join your Istanbul stroll. Great angle with the cats! 🙂 I know Istanbul too. CDA? I fell victim to it recently 😉

I’ll gladly follow along—I loved Istanbul so much. Such great memories are coming back. Plus, I really love cats, and they seem to sense it—they just come up to me on their own. It’s so funny...

Where are the men?

Istanbul, my first step outside Europe...

🙂 Taksim Square is the central point marking the historic heart of the European district. Here, nothing out of the ordinary, so I prefer to head back down toward the Bosphorus, wandering through the side streets perpendicular to Istiklal Avenue.

But I linger a bit on the square—we’ve got a whole week ahead of us! I come across some creepy dolls,



some wild hairstyles,



antique dealers,





chestnut vendors,





plastic flowers,



musicians,



I’m not sure what this is,



and always, always,

With my nose in the air, I admire the beautiful Art Deco buildings and wander through little passages that shelter charming cafés and shops decorated with odds and ends. I love this timeless feel, with an atmosphere that blends East and West.

I love the beautiful Art Deco buildings

No photos to share? 😛

At barely fifteen years old, a still very new art form is decorating the walls of Istanbul, especially in the Karaköy district. Street art, an endless journey...

I admire the beautiful Art Deco buildings

No photos to share? 😛

No, I just checked—I don’t have anything presentable. You’ll have to settle for my new series of cats 😛 (if you’re interested, they’re up for adoption)

Perched on a windowsill, in the shade of a tree, or on a café table—you’ll run into them at every street corner. The answer might lie in religion... The Prophet Mohammed had a special fondness for these felines. He’s said to have torn a piece of his robe rather than disturb a sleeping cat on his lap.

They’re allowed inside homes, even mosques, unlike dogs, which are considered impure. That said, they’re not treated the same way as here—they don’t belong to anyone. They live outside, near homes where people leave out bowls of food and shelter on the sidewalk. Maybe they’re just looking for company? But they’ve got that free-spirited cat instinct and won’t accept the constraints of being a pet. Everyone’s happy with the arrangement 😉

This one had me laughing for minutes. He was sunbathing!

I absolutely love this angle on cats. Cities don’t usually give me the big thrill, but there are two that totally captivated me: Sarajevo and Istanbul. I’m waiting to see what comes next—curious if we’ve been shaken, stirred, or enchanted by the same places. Luc

Hey Luc

For those who aren’t cat lovers, you might wanna skip to another travel journal! 😉 They’re part of what fascinated me—would Istanbul even be the same without its cats? And some neighborhoods too, but I’ll get back to that...

I don’t like cats, but I’ll stay 😏

Good evening Catherine, yes, the cats—I have memories of them, but you're the storyteller. I still have a vivid memory of that city, even though when I visited, I was steeped in an oriental atmosphere since I was living in Albania. Luc

I don’t like cats, but I’ll stay

That’s nice, my Pierrot

@Masterpo You said you weren’t drawn to Istanbul. I’m really surprised! This city must bring together all your interests (well, from what I know ), from rich Art Deco architecture to wooden houses, stunning palaces, mosques, churches, museums, a wild and tumultuous history, and also the cobblestone alleys, street art, quirky passages, and little bars that remind you of Parisian corners—plus, most importantly: the cats!

I dunno... some kind of mental block, for sure... 😛

Well, we might need a defibrillator because I’m sure you’d love it. (Aren’t you getting a little bitter, though? 😛)

Here’s a little selfie while I wait—something different from the cats.

What a pace, Catherine! From Japan to Turkey in less than two weeks 😄 Thanks for this new share. Istanbul has been tempting me for years—if the city is also full of cats, I’ll *have* to go 😻

But tell me, it seems like you're also really racking up the trips 😉

Okay, I'll keep going since I'm only up to Sunday and there are still more cats to see 😇 I'm heading toward one of the shores of the Bosphorus, that famous strait separating Asia from Europe. The idea feels strange... The crossing will be for tomorrow, and we'll do it by bridge like all those good old-fashioned tourists.

Still those street vendors selling chestnuts (I always wonder if they're chestnuts or sweet chestnuts ), fishermen, lost tourists, weird little treats (which I'm going to try), and... cats sniffing the air... scented with fish.

Wouldn’t that be the Galata Bridge? I really loved this place :)

Hi Kate,

Congrats on your travel journal! Great idea to include our furry friends in your city visit. Are they European-type cats? The same breed as our cats here? Everywhere I go, I notice them— in Israel, I found they were small, long-haired models, and in the Caribbean, they were tall and very slender.

Keep up the good work with these purr-fect companions.

♪ ♪ ♫Meooow, Meeeow, ♪ ♫ MeOOOOow, Meow ♪ ♪ ♪ Meeeow, ♫ ♪ ♪ ♪ MeOOOOOOw, ♫ Meow, mew Meeeow, mew Meow, mew, ♫ mew, meow, ♫ ♪MeOOOOW, Meeeeeow Meeeeeeeeeeow, ♫ ♪ mew ! ♪♪♪♪meHAHAHAHAow ♫ ♫ mehehehehehehe♪aw ! Meeeow !! ♫

Hello Kate,

Here’s a travel journal from an unexpected angle! I was familiar with the cats of Morocco, Venice, Greece... the Asian cats in Buddhist temples, Japan in pictures... but I’d never thought of Istanbul.

It adds an extra charm among the people, a unique perspective... but this city between East and West must be full of curiosities and treasures!

Wasn’t it a bit disorienting to go from zen culture to the hustle and bustle of Istanbul? I totally get that choice, that desire... contrasts are part of the journey.

I’ve been drawn to Istanbul for a long time because of its vibe, its history, and its riches, so I’m happily following along with this journal! !

Yes, Turkish cats say meow! And the roosters say cock-a-doodle-doo... Those Turks are crazy 😏

But tell me, it seems like you're also really racking up the trips 😉

Sure 😎 but not with your efficiency in writing travel journals 😛

@Pierre Yes, it's the Galata Bridge, 200m from our APARTMENT. Such a great neighborhood—you’d recommended it to me, by the way! 🙂

@Poste42

Are these European-type cats? Same model as our cats here?

I’m not sure if they’re "European" breed cats, but I’ve seen all kinds. I noticed they often have big paws. I also spotted a real Turkish Angora (Ankara used to be called Angora, named after the silky-haired goats from there—that’s where the name comes from). It was a female nicknamed Mademoiselle. I asked why such a pretty name, and her owner told me—translating his English as best I can—that she was sensual, flirty, and independent (a bit snobby, really!) like a French woman! Too bad the photo of Mademoiselle is blurry 😕

@Kola Thanks for that noisy passage

@Ming

Wasn’t it a bit destabilizing, going from zen culture to Istanbul’s hustle and bustle?

Not at all! That’s exactly what I love—otherwise, I’d get bored. There’s hustle, sure, but in some neighborhoods where we intentionally got lost, we were completely alone. Tourists are mostly concentrated around the mosques, Topkapi, and parts of Galata.

I don’t know anything about Istanbul (I didn’t even know if it was an 'n' or an 'm'), but to me, Galata was more of a tower than a bridge, right?

Playing Assassin’s Creed can come in handy...

I don’t know anything about Istanbul (I didn’t even know if it was an "n" or an "m"), but to me, Galata was more of a tower than a bridge, right?

Playing Assassin’s Creed can come in handy...

Galata is a tower, a bridge, a neighborhood...

Monday, October 21

Furball has mobilized quite a crowd. Actually, Furball is a tiny little cat with really big teats, poor thing. Her kittens appear as soon as I set foot on my balcony. Gotta say, the soup is good... But they're not agile enough to reach me, so I toss them little bread balls soaked in milk. They fight over them 😕



We cross the Golden Horn on foot, an estuary that flows into the Bosphorus. Today’s outing is planned for Sultanahmet, the ultimate tourist district, which packs into just a few hundred square meters the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, the Archaeological Museum, the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts, the Basilica Cistern, the Grand Bazaar, and more (Masterpo, if you're nervous about venturing into Istanbul’s working-class neighborhoods, you can stick to this area—there’s plenty to do 😛)

The 250 km-long line in front of Hagia Sophia puts me off. We’ll head to the Süleymaniye Mosque instead and hang around the area while we wait for lunch at an amazingly good restaurant for chicken skewers and veggies—everything perfectly spiced.









A quick stop at the Egyptian Bazaar—it’s all sparkly, but we leave quickly (even though I love markets, I don’t feel like I’m discovering anything new, plus it’s packed). Then we head to the Kucuk Pazar district, which I’ve heard about and can’t wait to see.











It’s funny—sometimes cats have very human expressions 🙂

Monday, October 21

We reach the Asian side by walking across the Golden Horn, an estuary that flows into the Bosphorus.............

l

Asian side?!? You sure?

😉

Too much raki this early in the morning?

I don’t know anything about Istanbul (I didn’t even know if it was an "n" or an "m"),

You, who’s so attached to spelling? 😉 You can’t be the only one... I hadn’t thought about why, but I sometimes hesitate for a second, instinctively wanting to put an m...

https://lepetitjournal.com/istanbul/actualites/la-question-100-tl-doit-ecrire-istanbul-istambul-ou-istamboul-84105

I’ve always been told that proper nouns don’t have spelling 😇

We reach the Asian side by crossing the Golden Horn on foot, the estuary that flows into the Bosphorus.............

l

Asian side?!? You sure?

😉

Too much raki this early?

Whoa, that mask of yours is scary...

Yeah, I messed up (the perk of a travel journal is you can correct things 😉). You're right, I should stop having raki for breakfast...

I was always told that proper names didn’t have spelling

Totally, Materpro!

Yeah, but here, it changes the pronunciation 😛

We're heading toward the Kücük Pazar neighborhood, passing through some slightly run-down areas. Here and there, you can see renovation efforts, but I get the feeling the wooden houses might collapse at the slightest click of my camera!

















Kücük Pazar is a local neighborhood far from tourists and their hustle and bustle. I love it. It’s peaceful, pretty, the locals are calm and smiling. My treats are a big hit—I knew they’d help break the ice! A man invites us for tea and sets up a makeshift table among his cats, tires, inner tubes, and other boxes. I sit on a squeaky plastic chair, and we chat for about an hour—time just seems to stand still...













Back toward Eminönü to catch the tram to Galata this time. I notice these very bearded fathers who’ve already put headscarves on their young daughters. They’re so little... I imagine they’d chop my head off with a sword if I took their photo without permission. So I go for it—bold move . A very brief nod from them lets me know it’s okay. They don’t even notice me, too busy with their own conversation.

Was there something preventing you from taking the Bosphorus Underground Line (BUL)?



I love it. But you already know that.

Was there something blocking the BUL?

No, just a framing choice. I have another shot, but the lens distortion is really bad. I tried fixing it in post-processing, but it’s not great. I run into this issue a lot...

Distortion is every photographer’s nightmare.

I tried to straighten it out a bit, but it’d be easier with the original photo. Oh well...