Istanbul, Men and Cats (page 1 of 9)

Sunday, October 20, 2019

Glancing at the Bosphorus through the bay window of my room, I absentmindedly scatter my things while quietly settling in. Then I turn around, looking for my passport, my cash, my camera battery, eager to join the buzz of the street below. But for the past few minutes, I’ve felt a presence—something moved on the balcony. Suddenly, I spot a black-and-white furball half-hidden behind a pot, nearby. I approach to introduce myself: "Here, kitty, kitty..." I don’t know how to say "kitty" in Turkish, but the rather rude furball hisses in my face, and its ridiculous little tail doubles in size. Okay. Not friendly. I grab what’s within reach—a cream capsule—and offer it as a peace offering. It lunges at me, swipes the object away with a quick paw, and scratches me in the process.

I’m in Istanbul *



* For the title of my travel journal, I was inspired by the lovely film: "Kedi, Cats and Men" by Ceyda Torum

I need to get two things right away: cat food and the Istanbulkart.

I rush down the narrow stairs of the building and find myself in the middle of Kaldirim Caddesi, a street that climbs toward Galata Tower and descends to the ferry dock. There’s shouting, singing, laughter, music playing, tea drinking, eating—it’s overwhelming, and I don’t know where to start.

As I wander through the maze of cobblestone streets leading to Taksim Square, I come across stray dogs. They seem harmless and have tags on their ears. They all look like brothers! Except for that one with an unusual quirk...



But what about the cats? According to the city, 165,000 stray cats live here. They’re not chased away—instead, they’re pampered by locals and around 420 municipal employees! Istanbul residents take care of the cats in their neighborhoods, and the city ensures their well-being through six dedicated care centers.



Back to our charming districts, from Karaköy to Beyoglu. I walk up Istiklal Street, a pedestrian-only stretch spanning 3 km, lined with hundreds of shops, art galleries, theaters, churches, cafés, chocolatiers, and restaurants. A display of towering pastries catches my eye, but—pathetic—I bolt, thinking about the extra pounds that’ll cozy up on my hips this winter.

The aroma of a certain coffee sharpens my taste buds. We settle onto a terrace and order the famous nectar.



It’s served with a glass of water and a little sweet treat. I take a sip but quickly realize I’ll have to wait a bit 😕 My travel companion is torturing me with her cigarette. - Vacation - Turkey - Terrace - Coffee - Relaxation - Letting go - Enjoying the moment - I passed on the honey-dripping cake, but I’m going to cave for that cigarette—it’ll be the best one of my life. I don’t feel like dealing with my cravings right now! (Actually, ever since I quit smoking, I’ve become a *CDA*—*Crazy Deprived Addict*.)





In Istanbul, it’s common to see cats claiming the best spots. No one would dream of shooing away a tomcat comfortably settled on a café terrace. Of course, not only do I not chase him away to sit down, but I also enjoy his presence (here, I didn’t pay to pet him )

Cats as a common thread to guide you through the streets of Istanbul—I love that! 🙂

What does CDA stand for?

(Actually, ever since I quit smoking I’ve become CDA)

Hi Kate,

I’m diving into this new travel journal with gusto.

As a former smoker, could I be CDA without knowing it? What does that mean?

Régis, Yolande, it's nice of you to follow along.

CDA? Creeps Doing Anywhere

Well, I guess I’m not then 🙂

Yolande, Régis, have you been to Istanbul? Yolande, I can’t remember if you went there when you traveled through southern Turkey. I’m asking because I feel like I’m the last one to have discovered this city!

Not unknown to me either!

No, I went to Istanbul about fifteen years ago. It’s a city that really won me over. Its location on the Bosphorus, its monuments, and the life of the city. I loved everything about it!

I loved everything about it!

It's funny—I think it's the city in the world that attracts me the least. Or maybe it's Bucharest...

But anyway, I loved *Kedi*, and so far, the feline side of things is great. Honestly, the rest doesn’t do much for me.

Oh well, I loved Kedi, and so far, when it comes to felines, it's all good.

That’s all I’ll remember 😛

I’ll join your Istanbul stroll. Great angle with the cats! 🙂 I know Istanbul too. CDA? I fell victim to it recently 😉

I’ll gladly follow along—I loved Istanbul so much. Such great memories are coming back. Plus, I really love cats, and they seem to sense it—they just come up to me on their own. It’s so funny...

Where are the men?

Istanbul, my first step outside Europe...

🙂 Taksim Square is the central point marking the historic heart of the European district. Here, nothing out of the ordinary, so I prefer to head back down toward the Bosphorus, wandering through the side streets perpendicular to Istiklal Avenue.

But I linger a bit on the square—we’ve got a whole week ahead of us! I come across some creepy dolls,



some wild hairstyles,



antique dealers,





chestnut vendors,





plastic flowers,



musicians,



I’m not sure what this is,



and always, always,

With my nose in the air, I admire the beautiful Art Deco buildings and wander through little passages that shelter charming cafés and shops decorated with odds and ends. I love this timeless feel, with an atmosphere that blends East and West.

I love the beautiful Art Deco buildings

No photos to share? 😛

At barely fifteen years old, a still very new art form is decorating the walls of Istanbul, especially in the Karaköy district. Street art, an endless journey...

I admire the beautiful Art Deco buildings

No photos to share? 😛

No, I just checked—I don’t have anything presentable. You’ll have to settle for my new series of cats 😛 (if you’re interested, they’re up for adoption)

Perched on a windowsill, in the shade of a tree, or on a café table—you’ll run into them at every street corner. The answer might lie in religion... The Prophet Mohammed had a special fondness for these felines. He’s said to have torn a piece of his robe rather than disturb a sleeping cat on his lap.

They’re allowed inside homes, even mosques, unlike dogs, which are considered impure. That said, they’re not treated the same way as here—they don’t belong to anyone. They live outside, near homes where people leave out bowls of food and shelter on the sidewalk. Maybe they’re just looking for company? But they’ve got that free-spirited cat instinct and won’t accept the constraints of being a pet. Everyone’s happy with the arrangement 😉

This one had me laughing for minutes. He was sunbathing!