Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD Return! Or the Denver-Denver Loop of the 4 Friends

Hello! 🙂

In 2017, struck by western addiction, our first road trip gave us an irresistible urge to return, which we did from September 2nd to 24th, 2019, on a loop from Denver to Denver via Yellowstone. The westernmost point of this journey, which took us through the geographical center of the USA, brought us within about a hundred kilometers of Moab, which had been the easternmost point of our last trip.

We’ve been back for over a month now, and I realize I’m starting to forget some details—it’s high time I started my travel journal before my brain turns into Swiss cheese and lets everything slip away. As I mentioned in my last story, it’ll take me quite a while to finish, so if any travelers have specific questions, don’t hesitate to message me privately. Once again, I’d like to thank everyone who helped me (and there were many!) prepare our road trip, with a special shout-out to Disneydiddl, Hiacinthe, and Titou (ladies first) as well as Fred and Itat, whom I bombarded with questions for months and who always kindly and patiently gave me tons of great tips. It’s thanks to all of you that this trip was such a success. I was a little worried I wouldn’t recapture the emotion and enthusiasm of our 2017 trip, but this one was just as "Wow" as the last.

For those who don’t know us, let me introduce our little group. We’re four friends in our sixties (this time, everyone made it, which let us score some "senior" discounts...). We live in the Var region, have known each other for over 20 years, and this was our second trip together to this magical West.

Mimi (Michèle): always the smallest and the funniest. Thank goodness she was there to speak English! Maumau (Maurice): her husband, always with his white hair, his Gallic mustache, his humor, and his Southern accent. He drove every other day. DD (André): the one with the beard, with whom I celebrated our 41st wedding anniversary at Yellowstone. Our second driver appreciated having a peaceful mind since he’s been retired since July. Marcalamar (Martine): that’s me—still blonde with glasses, still talking a lot, and still terrified of messing up the organization of this trip despite all the hours spent on the forum.

Recognize us? Ha ha ha!!!! No, just kidding!!!! That’s us!!!

Michèle, Maurice, André, and Martine... if you'd told us they were recent high school grads celebrating their diploma, we might've had a hard time believing it! 😛

But I'll be following this travel journal with as much attention as the last one. 😇

The itinerary: Day 1: Flight Marseille-Munich-Denver then Idaho Springs (92 km then 50 km round trip to visit Georgetown) Day 2: Idaho Springs - Wheatland (445 km via Rocky Mountain National Park) Day 3: Wheatland - Custer (500 km with visit to Custer State Park) Day 4: Custer - Interior (275 km with visit to Badlands) Day 5: Interior - Deadwood (222 km) Day 6: Deadwood - Sheridan (415 km) Day 7: Sheridan - Cody (318 km with visit to Bighorn Canyon) Day 8: Cody - Cooke City (372 km with incursion into Yellowstone up to Canyon Village) Day 9: Cooke City - Gardiner (288 km) Day 10: Gardiner - Canyon Village (151 km) Day 11: Canyon Village - West Yellowstone (177 km) Day 12: West Yellowstone (234 km) Day 13: West Yellowstone - Thayne (340 km) Day 14: Thayne - Brigham City (263 km + 86 km in the Bear River Migratory Bird Refuge) Day 15: Brigham City - Rock Springs (447 km with visit to Antelope Island) Day 16: Rock Springs - Vernal (389 km with visit to Fantasy Canyon and Dinosaur National Monument on the Utah side) Day 17: Vernal - Fruita (356 km with visit to Dinosaur National Monument on the Colorado side and part of Colorado National Monument) Day 18: Fruita - Montrose (250 km with visit to Colorado National Monument and Black Canyon of the Gunnison) Day 19: Montrose - Cripple Creek (398 km via Divide) Day 20: Cripple Creek - Manitou Springs (113 km) Day 21: Manitou Springs (153 km with visit to Garden of the Gods and Painted Mines in Calhan) Day 22: Manitou Springs - Denver (160 km)

In calculating the distances, I included the trips from one accommodation to another with all the detours (roads, trails, round trips to restaurants, etc.) we made during the day. An app on our phone also let us know we walked over 150 km!

We covered 4,033 miles, almost 6,500 km over these three weeks. It was pretty fast-paced, and even though we got up at 6 a.m. every morning, we didn’t have time to linger in the small towns like we would’ve liked. Still, it was a fabulous trip—no one was left wanting, and everyone wants to go back to see more wonders! Maybe we should’ve planned to stay two nights in the same place a bit more often to "chill" a little, but apart from adding a few days (which we couldn’t do), looking back at our program, I don’t see anything we could’ve cut!

Haha!!! Well spotted!!! 😏 It’s true that just by seeing those names, you can guess the age of the people who have them!!! Have a great day! 🙂

Hi Martine,

I’ve been keeping an eye on this travel journal. Of course, I’ll follow along! I’m off—I leave Saturday for two weeks, so I’ll pick up reading when I get back. Good luck with the writing!

Take care,

Hello

I’ll take the time to read through your posts. And see where the madness of old age has taken you (you’ve definitely passed the 250-year mark). And see the world through your eyes.

Good evening Martine,

I still remember your 2017 travel journal, so I’m boarding for the 2019 one now!!!

Welcome everyone! 🙂 Budget. The prices you see include bank fees and currency exchange charges. Some are in euros, others in dollars. The ESTA, flight, and airport parking were paid by credit card when booking, accommodations were paid by card on-site, and everything else was covered by dipping into a shared pot that we topped up as needed.

The car, flights, and all accommodations were booked since October 2018.

Per couple: Flight: Marseille-Munich-Denver, Denver-Frankfurt-Marseille: 1978 € with Lufthansa, including one night at a hotel of our choice from their catalog (to get a better price on the flight, we had to book a ground package). ESTA: 28 € Airport parking in Marseille: 55 € (old parking) for 22 days. (For those who usually use it, note it’s now 115 € for the same period if booked for March 2020.)

For all four of us: Car: Toyota 4runner 4x4 (from Hertz): 1360 € (1482 dollars, including 189 dollars for a second driver and a 131-dollar discount as a goodwill gesture for our faulty air conditioning in 2017).

Accommodations: 2120 € per couple For the 21 nights, we stayed in hotels and motels booked via Booking.com and cabins inside the parks (1 booked through Xanterra for Yellowstone and another directly at Cedar Pass Lodge for Badlands National Park). We split our stays into 10 nights in a single room, 2 nights in a two-bedroom apartment, and 9 nights in shared rooms to cut costs and have a laugh—acting like the overgrown teenagers we still are. Some places offered breakfast; otherwise, we had it together in the room.

Cash: 2050 dollars per couple. This covered everything else: gas, evening restaurants, parking, state parks, groceries for breakfasts and midday picnics, tips, and personal souvenirs. Gas: 470 dollars America the Beautiful Pass: 80 dollars Custer State Park: 20 dollars per car Mount Rushmore parking: 5 dollars per car (senior price, otherwise 10 dollars) Mount Moriah Cemetery in Deadwood: 2 dollars per person Fort Phil Kearny: 5 dollars per person Buffalo Bill Museum in Cody: 9.5 dollars per person (discount for arriving at 4 PM) Antelope Island: 10 dollars per car Mollie Kathleen Gold Mine in Cripple Creek: 25 dollars per person Rock Ledge Ranch Pow Wow: 5 dollars per person (senior price, otherwise 8 dollars)

For us, the vacation cost 6911 € for both of us, all included.

Like during our 2017 road trip, we didn’t rent a GPS. We used the offline GPS app “Here WeGo,” downloading the maps of the states we’d be crossing onto our two phones and tablet before leaving. It took us absolutely everywhere we wanted to go, even to remote spots like Fantasy Canyon or Painted Mines. Just make sure to plug it into the car—otherwise, your phone battery drains *super* fast!!!!

Alright, friends! I’ll leave you for now and catch up as soon as I can (tomorrow’s kids’ day, so Grandma will be busy!!!) Have a great evening everyone

Hey Martine... I'm here too... I really like your writing style... I can just picture the four of you... and with that southern accent, of course 😄😄... Have a great day with your little ones tomorrow—I’ll be doing the same with mine... Have a good evening!

Hi Martine! I was a fan of your group in 2017, I’m still a fan in 2019!

Hi Martine,

I just discovered your 2017 adventure not too long ago 😊 this time I’m joining from the start 😃😃😃

Off on an adventure!

Have a great day, Myriam

Hi Martine, I followed your 2017 adventures too I’ll be following these even more closely because Yellowstone has been catching our eye for quite a while now 😉. Thanks for sharing!

Alright, here we go!!!! Day 1, Sept 2 – Marseille - Munich - Denver - Idaho Springs Argo Inn & Suites: Idaho Springs 137 € with breakfast (for 2 people) A cute little hotel just under 100 km from Denver. Located by the river, our rooms had a balcony overlooking it. Spacious room with coffee maker, fridge, and microwave. Barbecue and picnic table by the water for guests. We chose to stay here to get away from Denver and avoid morning traffic on our first day, but also to visit the charming town of Georgetown on the day we arrived.

Once again, we decided to leave very early in the morning, even though our flight to Munich wasn’t until 8:45 AM. Better to wake up a little earlier than deal with the chaos in Marseille and stress about missing our flight!!! It’s not every day we go to the States!!! Especially since, with the excitement, sleep is super light!! No message from Lufthansa about a schedule change!!! Cool!!! Quickly, tea down the hatch, and we jump in the car. 4:40 AM, the control tower at Marignane is in sight. Our friends arrive almost at the same time as us. Mimi and I are excited as fleas!!! So happy to reunite for this new adventure. Just thinking about what’s ahead has us jumping for joy. A little hot chocolate while waiting for boarding, and we’re in the air. Too bad the sky is overcast. A sea of clouds blocks our view of the Alps. Only one or two peaks taller than the rest poke through. Munich!! We wander around the Duty Free, where I buy another bottle of champagne (we still have our wedding anniversary to celebrate!!!). The flight to Denver is on time. Darn, more clouds!! Glued to the window, I hope they’ll clear by the time we reach Greenland. Every now and then, a break in the clouds lets a bit of blue through, and then suddenly, everything clears up. I’ll never get tired of this spectacle of glaciers, sea, and icebergs!!! Our Earth is so beautiful!!!!





At 2:25 PM, right on schedule, we touch down on the tarmac at Denver Airport. Customs, immigration, and baggage claim in record time!! As soon as we leave the terminal, a blast of hot air surprises us!!! Thanks to our Hertz Gold Plus Rewards card, our name is already on the board, and the icing on the cake—the employee speaks French!!! We get to the car—what is this monster!!!! A huge 4Runner 4x4!! With our short legs, Mimi and I are going to need a step stool to reach the seats. The trunk is massive; we won’t need to play Tetris every morning. We program the address of a Walmart into our Here WeGo GPS to buy a styrofoam cooler and supplies for our first picnics and breakfasts. At 3:45 PM, we’re off!! 1 hour and 20 minutes between landing and leaving the parking lot!! What a difference from Los Angeles Airport. No issues with the automatic transmission—our drivers are pros!! Denver Airport is funny with its white structures that look like tipis. Everything is dry and sun-scorched on both sides of the road. I glance at the temperature: 101°F on the dashboard!!!! Over 38°C!!! Uh!!!! The cold-weather lover that I am packed sweaters, technical t-shirts, a heavy-duty parka, and even wool gloves and a hat!!! We leave Denver. The road on I-70 is very hilly. Soon after a desert plateau, we start seeing pine trees. And to think we’re so close to the scorched fields of Denver.

It almost feels like the Alps. We spot a herd of “deer” drinking from a small river, and we arrive in Idaho Springs, which is both a little mountain village and a Wild West mining town that stretches quietly along the river. Our smiling hotel hostess gives us our keys. Just enough time to settle in for a few minutes before heading to the picturesque Georgetown to stroll around, see its historic downtown, its shops full of old-timey items, and its Hotel de Paris turned museum.

Unfortunately, even though we’d have loved to keep exploring all its nooks and crannies, time flies, and it’s already 7 PM!! It’s too late to look for and photograph the steam locomotive, and it’s twilight as we head back to Idaho Springs for our first night in the U.S., not without first devouring a good burger at the Clear Creek Cidery (4 burgers, 2 beers for $91).

People we love, full bellies, a cozy bed, a river lulling us right beside us (I even got up to open the window to hear it better), an amazing trip ahead—life is beautiful!!!!

Hello

It's always nice to arrive at your first motel, with all the luggage, no delays, and a good car waiting for you.

You're in the US 😉

Hi Martine and Co, I’ll be following your travel journal with interest since your trip might resemble the one we’ve planned for June 2020. It already radiates the fun the group seems to have had doing it... and thanks for sharing! Yves

Good evening! 🙂 It’s so great to see familiar usernames again!!!! As I’ve said, the 4Runner is super spacious—there’s room for everyone, old friends and new!!!! If we squeeze a bit, you’ll all fit inside, and if we really have to, we’ll put some on the roof!!! How’s it going, Gilles? Not too nostalgic about finishing your travel journal? We’re happy to have made it to the end, but it’s always tough to finally close the chapter on a trip after those few weeks on the road and all those months of planning and writing. And Yves, don’t hesitate to honk if you have any specific questions. Thanks to everyone for your little notes (it’s a bit of pressure, but it’s also encouraging), and have a great weekend! Martine 🙂

Hi Martine, I’m in too! (Looking forward to getting back to writing my own this weekend!) So nice to see your little group again!

Hi Martine,

How's it going Gilles, not too nostalgic about finishing your travel journal? We're happy to have made it to the end, but it's always tough to finally close the chapter on this trip after those few weeks on the ground and all those months of planning and writing.

Withdrawal is tough! I think this time it's even worse than previous years.

To motivate myself, I'm trying to plan a few days in Italy.

Day 2. September 3rd Idaho Springs - Wheatland Heartland Inn & Suites Wheatland: 144 € with breakfast (for 4 people) Comfortable and very spacious room with microwave, kettle tray, refrigerator, pool, and hot tub. Hearty breakfast with both savory and sweet options (waffle maker). A bit outside the city with a huge parking lot. Very well located for visiting Fort Laramie.

A long drive today (almost 450 km). The night before, everyone had crashed early, but thanks to the time difference, we were all fresh and ready at the crack of dawn. Last little stroll by the river before breakfast, and at 7:45 AM, we set off for the 80 km of the Trail Ridge Road—the highest continuous paved road in the USA and the crossing of the Rocky Mountains. Every morning, we played Tetris the same way to fit suitcases, coolers, travel bags, and backpacks into the trunk.

Right after leaving town, we came across a herd of bighorn sheep (no males with their impressive horns, just females and young ones).







We passed by mining remnants and tackled the switchbacks leading to Berthoud Pass, where we saw our first chipmunks.





We left the conifers behind and found meadows and small cabins as we approached Granby. At the Grand Lake entrance station, we bought our America the Beautiful Pass.

Shortly after this purchase, we saw cars stopped along the road—I’ve learned my lesson: where there are cars, there’s something to see! A young moose welcomed us to his park, leaving his lush, grassy meadows to cross the road right in front of us.



And as if that wasn’t lucky enough, a little farther on, a mom and her calf were there too, barely hidden by the tall grass.



Excitement was building in the car! We’d just left and were already spotting animals. After a few kilometers of tight switchbacks, we started hitting the different overlooks (OVLs). I don’t know if it’s because we left early or because it’s September, but we never had trouble finding a parking spot. Farview Curve OVL

Milner Pass



Medicine Bow Curve OVL and its hairpin turn

The road winds through the mountains. The pine trees have disappeared, and the tundra has taken over. The scenery around the road changes with every new viewpoint. Gore Range OVL





We pass the summit at 3,713 m just before the Lava Cliffs.



A little more driving, and we’re at the Tundra Communities Trailhead, where we’ll start our short hike into the tundra.

I’ve racked my brain trying to remember the names of all the OVLs—I’m not sure I got them all right. If any locals spot mistakes, feel free to correct me. Thanks!

Tundra Communities Trail. Once again, no trouble parking the car near a building right by the road. We bundle up warmly (above 3,500 m, it's best to be prepared, even with the beautiful sunshine we had) and start the little walk that takes us across the tundra to a small cluster of rocks.

The paved trail, a bit steeper at the start, quickly levels out into a gentle slope. Barely underway, a marmot pops up to say hello. We come across informational signs regularly, but our school-level English lets us down again—we don’t linger to read them properly. Discovering this tundra, where nothing grows except a dense "lawn" and tiny wildflowers, delights us. Despite the harsh climate, nature still puts on a stunning show of colors—white, red, yellow. With the blue sky and gray rocks, it’s a feast for the eyes.



After a leisurely 800 m walk, we reach the end of the trail at the foot of the rock. DD and I head up first—it’s super easy to climb—and Mimi and Maumau quickly join us at the viewpoint to admire the fantastic 360° view of the Rocky Mountains and the road winding peacefully below.





It’s so beautiful!!! But we can’t stay—we need to make room for other hikers who want to capture the moment too. The descent is just as easy, with a quick stop at the Mushrooms rocks, just a few dozen meters off the main trail.

Luckily, none of us felt the effects of the altitude (3,754 m) or the lack of oxygen, though some people might struggle with it. We pick up the car and continue our descent toward Estes Park. Rock Cut OVL

Forest Canyon

The landscape is still pretty barren—just a few scattered pine trees giving us a touch of green. Rainbow Curve To the left of the road, it’s hilarious—right here, this pile of rocks looks like it was tossed by a giant playing a game, while just a few meters away, there’s a breathtaking view of the moraines and little lakes below.



After this viewpoint, the vegetation gets denser, and the road now winds through the pine trees. Many Parks Curve

Hidden Valley Given the time, we settle into the Hidden Valley picnic area for a bite. Disaster—we’re swarmed by a cloud of bees, forcing us to pack up quickly and make a run for it. Our empty stomachs will have to wait.

Beaver Ponds gives us another view of the moraines and the winding Fall River. At Deer Ridge Junction, we turn right and finally have our meal on the benches at Beaver Meadows Visitor Center. Wildlife adventure over!!!

With the charming little houses of Estes Park, we’re back in civilization. We follow forests of conifers and a small river filled with suspended boulders and rocks moved by floods, then Loveland and finally Cheyenne, where we stop to photograph some giant boots.





Take a tour of Wrangler, the huge store packed with boots, hats, and Western outfits in an irresistible leather scent.





Our guys try their hand at playing cowboys.



We soon have to hit the road again since there’s still over an hour before we reach our hotel in Wheatland. The drive takes us through a desert-like, monotonous plain with no trees, where a few scrawny herds of cows and horses graze, scattered here and there. After the town of Chugwater, even though the prairies are greener, it still feels even poorer and gloomier with some gray buttes. We’re happy to get back to our hotel. It’s almost time for dinner, and we’ll head to Guadalajara, right next to the hotel, to enjoy some excellent Mexican food. Since no one wants to join me (what lazy bums these youngsters are!), I’ll relax in the hot tub alone. What an amazing day!!! Moose, chipmunks, a marmot, breathtaking landscapes!!! We walked through the tundra, on a road that almost touches the sky, across prairies, fir trees, glacial valleys surrounded by mountain lakes and snow-capped peaks!!! I can tell this trip is going to be as beautiful as the last one!!!!

Oh boy!!!!! I’ve got a frozen butt and I’ve packed my suitcase with sweaters, technical t-shirts, a heavy-duty parka, plus gloves and a wool hat!

Hey Martine,

You might actually need all that in Yellowstone NP ;) You’ll be arriving in the park on September 11th. In mid-August, evenings and early mornings weren’t warm at all. I was wearing a sweatshirt and a windbreaker. Some tourists had thick jackets, like puffers.

Loved ones, a full belly, a cozy bed, a river lulling us to sleep right beside us (I even got up to open the window just to hear it better), and an amazing trip ahead—isn’t life great?!!!!

Amazing! What more could you ask for?

We drove the "Trail Ridge Road" in the opposite direction. We saw some moose just before arriving at Grand Lake (in a TV report, I learned there are quite a few in this area): a female and her calf, but they were at the edge of the forest. The ones you saw were closer, and on top of that, you were lucky enough to have one of them cross the road right in front of you! 😏

I really love the photos—they turned out great.

See you soon,

Christine

Fortunately, none of us four felt the effects of the altitude (3,754 m) or the lack of oxygen, but some people just can’t go there.

Back in 2013, we also visited Rocky Mountain NP at the very start of our trip. I’m not used to high altitudes. I had a headache when we arrived at that part of the "Trail Ridge Road," and it started raining 😕 So, I only walked a few meters on the Tundra Communities Trail, while my husband carried on alone. I settled for taking a few photos of pikas www.nps.gov/...arn/nature/pikas.htm that were near the path.

After that, we went to the Alpine Visitor Center. I took a pill and had a hot drink. Afterward, I felt much better 😏

See you soon!

Christine

Those boots in Cheyenne are really gorgeous—true works of art! This year, we stopped in the city at the end of our trip. The next morning, we had fun hunting for all the boots; it’s a fun walking route that let us explore part of the city.

On the other hand, we didn’t think to visit Wrangler. The hats will fit André and Maurice perfectly soon.

Have a great rest of the afternoon!

See you soon!

Christine

Hi Martine, What a great day! I would’ve loved it too 😉 Like Christine, I also think hats really suit guys 🙂

Hi Christine, Still so helpful on the forum😉 Our 2016 and 2018 road trips are packed with the references you suggested while we were planning them. The 2019 project, which turned into the 2020 one, isn’t lacking them either. Thanks, Yves

Hi Yves,

Hello Christine Still so helpful on the forum😉 Our 2016 and 2018 road trips are packed with your suggestions from when we were planning them. The 2019 project, which turned into the 2020 one, isn’t lacking them either. Thanks Yves

Thank you, that’s really kind of you Your message means a lot to me.

Have a great evening!

Christine

Hi Peggy,

It was reading one of your travel journals that gave me the idea to go to Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park in the late afternoon until sunset. We loved it 😏

In the morning, we admired "Observation Point" (in Zion NP) by coming from the East (East Mesa Trail) 😉 From the other side, because of the elevation gain, it seemed difficult to reach the viewpoint (I have breathing problems), and anyway, the usual path was closed due to a rockslide that happened before our trip.

Thank you so much, and I hope you have a great evening.

Christine

Hey friends! 🙂 Christine, thank goodness my suitcase was full of warm clothes—they came in really handy a bit later. I remember you telling me about how you felt unwell in the high altitudes of Trail Ridge Road! Peggy, our guys look so good in their hats, don’t they?!!!! We make them wear them on their heads over and over again!!!!! Yves, Christine is *such* a reference on the forums—she always replies quickly to posts, with so much kindness, and her knowledge is invaluable!!!! Have a great day, everyone! Martine 🙂

Hi Peggy, I got the idea to go to Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park in the late afternoon until sunset after reading one of your travel journals. We loved it 😏 Christine

Another suggestion from the forum that we took up in 2018 between Bryce and Sedona...😕nostalgia...

Yves

Day 3 . September 4 Wheatland - Custer Rocket motel Custer 118 € with breakfast (2 people) A charming red-and-white motel right in the town center on Custer’s main road, 6 km from the west entrance of the park. Quiet but with restaurants and Dakotamart nearby. Nice room with a fridge and microwave. Friendly welcome. Hot drinks and pastries for breakfast in the tiny reception area.

We’ve got a lot of kilometers planned for today since we’d like to start visiting Custer State Park this afternoon.

Oregon Trail Ruts: 658 miles. Guernsey (for GPS)



In the mid-1800s, thousands of heavy emigrant wagons heading west along the Oregon Trail left deep ruts in the rock. Well-maintained and easy to access, the site is deeply moving. We had no trouble imagining ourselves in the shoes of those pioneers traveling through these inhospitable regions, especially after visiting Fort Bluff on our last road trip—even though the Oregon Trail route is different from the Mormon trail in Bluff. We think about how many wagons it must have taken to leave such scars in the stone!!! What were they seeking in these distant lands? Escape, gold, or simply the hope of a better life... We’re wandering this quiet little spot with just an elderly lady and her son, and they seem as moved as we are.

Historic Fort Laramie Bridge

Just before the fort, a quick photo stop at the old historic bridge built in 1875, spanning the peaceful Platte River.

Fort Laramie 965 Gray Rocks Road Built near the Platte and Laramie Rivers by two trappers in 1834, this former fur-trading post served as a mail relay before becoming a military outpost to protect pioneer caravans heading to Oregon, allowing them to rest and stop over.

Around a large central grassy square are restored barracks filled with furniture and everyday objects (donations) that immerse us in the daily life of those who lived here—especially the cavalry quarters (soldiers and officers) and the homes of officers and their families.



.

























This journey through time is impressive, especially since we were lucky enough to meet a ranger who’s a fan of our beautiful country and its people. He gave us a private tour in the cavalry quarters, taking us into rooms usually locked and only visible behind glass. Thanks to him for his kindness!!! 11:25!!!! Time to leave Fort Laramie!!!!

Fort Laramie Built near the Platte and Laramie rivers by two trappers in 1834, this former fur trading post served as a mail relay before becoming a military outpost to protect pioneers' wagon trains heading to Oregon from Native American threats, allowing them to rest and make a stop.

A total immersion in the place, steeped in history it’s true, but appreciated by few "forumers." Bravo! And now we’ll make the detour between Cheyenne and Scottsbluff 😎 Lots of great photos... Yves

We leave Wyoming to head to South Dakota via an endless road through the green desert. We pass through very few towns. From the start, we drive through hectares of pastures as far as the eye can see: water, green buttes with gray rocks emerging.

Lots of horses and a few herds of cows with no shade to shelter from the sun, then very quickly the water sources seem to disappear too!!! Yellow, yellow, and more yellow!!! Poor herds, they have to look for trees!!!





33 °C!! If we want to have lunch, we need to find a shady spot!!! Edgemont!!! There must be a place with tables in this little village. At the entrance, the fire station offers a big tree in lush green grass. We’ll be like kings there!!! We open the trunk to take out the bags and the cooler. One mosquito, two mosquitoes, ten mosquitoes!!!!! They’re landing on us!! Ugh!!! There are hundreds swarming around us!!! Quick, we pack everything back up!!! Off to the town center!! A bench near the church!! Before unpacking everything, I go on a scouting mission!! What’s up with this village!!!! They’re coming from all sides!! There are as many as near the fire station!!! They must be really hungry to swarm like this as soon as someone sticks their nose outside!!! It’s 2:20 PM, our stomachs are growling!!! But no way we’re serving as lunch for these vampires—we’ll eat in the car!!! We leave the town without seeing anyone!!! Between the heat and the mosquitoes, it’s no wonder there’s not a soul outside!!! After Edgemont, the road becomes hilly again, and soon we enter the Black Hills National Forest with its pines and wooded hills. Just before Custer, we start seeing rocks through the pine trees—everything is green, with little houses near the river!! All this greenery is so relaxing!! We drive past our motel without stopping.

We go through Custer and its humorous bison!!



Some are magnificent!!!

At 3:10 PM, we enter Custer National Park heading toward Needles Highway

I’ll be following your trip with pleasure—it overlaps a lot with what we did two months before you, in late June and early July... It brings back wonderful memories, and I’m discovering some places (like Fort Laramie) that we skipped for others. I can’t wait to see the rest—I really loved Custer State Park. :-)

Hi Martine, We also visited Fort Laramie a few years ago; we met a French woman married to a ranger there; she told us about her life in the USA. We also saw the Oregon Trail Ruts in Guernsey. Noëlle

It's not just Mimi and co who've been to the US—others didn't take notes but went too. Personally, I've had around twenty trips all over the USA, but not a single trip report!

Hello! 🙂

To Yves and Noëlle: It's true that we really enjoyed Oregon Ruts and Fort Laramie, and I'm thrilled that our travel journal is giving Yves the urge to go there. We would've loved to spend a bit more time wandering around there.

To Katia, I also love reading travelers' accounts to revisit the places we enjoyed.

To Marie Françoise, as we already discussed in PM, I’ll say it again: it’s thanks to reading so many travel journals that our two trips were such a success. Without them, we would’ve missed out on some truly beautiful spots. You can discover places that aren’t too well-known, and reading them raises questions that we get answers to directly from those who’ve already made the trip.

Voyage Forum is an exchange forum!!! That’s what it’s for!!

Plus, reliving the trip by writing about it is really enjoyable, and the last advantage is that memories fade over time, and these journals are a great way to keep them intact and bring them back to life.

Have a great day, everyone! Martine 🙂

For my many trips to the US, I prefer paper guides over forum reviews

Instead of coming here to criticize others about their travel journals, I don’t see why you’re on a travel forum if you prefer paper guides. When you’ve got nothing interesting to say, do like me (just look at my post count)—shut your mouth.

Oh wow!! Stay calm, friends, stay calm!!!! !!! !!! !!! I usually always respond calmly to unpleasant posts, even if sometimes some people really deserve to be put in their place because we're here to share, not to argue!!! Like in life, I prefer not to retaliate so as not to escalate things because I hate conflicts. Come on, let's shake hands, give each other a smile, let's not talk about it anymore and forget everything!!! Martine 🙂 Thanks Joss for your somewhat forceful intervention 😉

Hello

As a rule, I never engage in discussions about such comments. I’ve had them on my travel journals, and I ignore them.

Because these round trips are harmful to the journal, those who read it, and those who write it.

For my part, I can’t wait to read the rest because, beyond discovering new places, there’s the atmosphere and the way of writing, which is always different.

Needle’s Hwy Scenic Drive Since Custer is a state park and not a national park, the Pass isn’t valid, and we paid the $10 entry fee for the car. Before driving its 22 km, we wanted to go to Mount Coolidge Lookout to see the Crazy Horse Memorial from the tower. Well, we didn’t find it! We took the right road after the West entrance as shown on the map, but we quickly ended up on a closed road with no signs. Even Here We Go couldn’t help us. We decided not to waste time looking for it since we had planned to drive the Wildlife Road late in the afternoon. Oh well, we’ll see it only when heading back down to Custer. Very quickly, we come across our first bison, calmly grazing just a few meters from the car. It barely lifts its head while we snap away. What a magnificent beast! It’s impressive.

The road continues its leisurely path through grassy prairies. We’d love to stop and roll around in those tall grasses!

Soon, the prairies disappear, and the road winds upward through pine and spruce trees. We pass through the first tunnel. Then, little by little, the landscape becomes more and more mineral as the forest thins out. The rocks grow taller and more prominent, and we start seeing needles in the distance as the switchbacks tighten.





Sharp needles, fairy chimneys, rounded rocks that look like beehives! Green, blue, stone blending with the trees! Cathedral Spires, Iron Tunnel, Needles Eye Tunnel, Little Devil’s Tower, Black Elk Peak—even the names take us on a journey!













Why don’t we have time to hike?! Once again, the snow, thaw, wind, and rain have cooked up a fabulous show for us. Soon, the granite spires seem to form a guard of honor as the rock closes in around us. Needles’ Eye Tunnel! How narrow is it?!

And Needle’s Eye??? Well, you won’t believe it! We didn’t see it! Goes to show you can never prepare enough for a trip, no matter how many hours you spend planning! I only realized it when I was trying to find the exact names of the rock formations. My English played tricks on me again! I didn’t realize it was the name of a specific rock formation called that because it’s pierced like the eye of a needle! We drive through the peaks and needles until we reach the lovely Sylvan Lake, where we won’t linger. After a few photos, we continue on Route 87 heading north to join the road that will take us to US Hwy 16. A denser forest surrounds us as the rocks move away from the road. Final stop at the viewpoint overlooking the entire valley. Before reaching the parking lot of Crazy Horse Memorial, where we’ll capture—from a distance—the beginnings of the sculpture of this Native American chief who didn’t want his photo taken.

5 PM! We’re back in Custer. Since check-in at the motel is possible until 10 PM, we head straight out to tackle the 30 km of the Wildlife Loop Road as planned.

Wildlife Loop Road A quick stop at the beautiful and informative Peter Norbeck Visitor Center where a magnificent Bull Snake (apparently harmless) gave us the scare of our lives.

We hit the paved road!! Where are the animals???? Not a sign of a bison, a pronghorn, or even a little donkey!!!! Following the advice of Voyage Forum regulars, we left the main road to take the dirt tracks. We had planned to do a loop: first Road 3 (Oak Draw Road), then Road 4 (North Lame Johnny Road), Road 5 (Swint Road), and finally Road 2 (Fisherman Flats Drive). Since Oat Road was closed, we decided to continue on Fisherman all the way to the end. What great advice to take the dirt roads!!! It’s a wonder at sunset—we cross green meadows full of little flowers.





The funny little heads of prairie dogs pop out of their burrows,

Bison are everywhere by the dozens.



We see red everywhere—the colors are warm and contrast with the green of the gently rolling meadows. The prairie dogs entertain us with their antics, and we even spot baby bison!!!

Suddenly, a little white behind and twisted horns!!! A couple of pronghorns are watching us!!!

We’re alone in pure, untouched nature!!! The sun is setting, the shadows grow long—time to go!!!! We come across a wild turkey and a final herd of bison!!!



Uh-oh!!! We’re not feeling too brave—do we go through or not?!!! We decide to drive calmly behind them and then alongside to pass them!!

A few photos out the window and we’re off!!!

Soon it’ll be pitch dark, and we check in before heading to dinner on our host’s recommendation at the excellent restaurant The Four Fathers (not cheap). $167 for 4 craft beers and 4 huge bison steaks, just a few dozen meters from the Rocket Motel. Custer Park, criticized by some, was a real highlight for us. Maybe because it was our first wildlife park. Lying in bed, I think back on our day—it was so rich!!! Even the weather was on our side: beautiful, warm, and as a bonus, that last road and all those animals at sunset!!! Tomorrow, we sleep in the Badlands!!!!

Hi Martine,

Bull Snake (apparently harmless)

I can confirm, it does seem to be a Bull Snake and it’s harmless. I’ve come across them several times, but you’re only really sure once you’re back home and analyze the photos. In the moment, you freak out!!!

I don’t remember if I’ve already told you, but I read and save your posts 😉—just don’t have much time right now (working on my Namibia travel journal).

Good evening Martine,

A magnificent Bull Snake (apparently harmless) gave us the scare of our lives.



What a beautiful snake! But you don’t expect to see one at the entrance of a Visitor Center. And it’s impressive.

I also find prairie dogs amusing 😏

Suddenly, a little white behind and twisted horns!!! A couple of pronghorns are watching us!!!



Great! They were pretty close to you.

Custer State Park, criticized by some, was a real heart-stopper for us. Maybe because it was our first wildlife park.

I didn’t feel the same emotion because I visited Yellowstone NP before Custer SP, and we saw tons of bison in Lamar Valley.

Have a good evening!

See you soon!

Christine

Hello Thank you for this travel journal that’ll really help us with our upcoming trip! Like you, we discovered the American West back in 2008 and promised ourselves we’d go back to visit Yellowstone! Time flies—now’s the time to think about it, especially since you have to book accommodations a year in advance! We’re loving your story—so many beautiful photos to top off this great recap! Can’t wait for the next part—see you soon for more reading! 😉

Hi there! 🙂 Save it, save it, Isap and Marimijean—hope my travel journal helps a bit!

Day 4. September 5th Custer-Interior. Cedar Pass Lodge: Interior 207 € without breakfast (shared room: 4 people) Booked directly with the hotel almost a year in advance. We fell in love with these cozy little cabins—super comfortable with a microwave, coffee maker, and fridge. The warm presence of wood both inside and out. Right in the middle of Badlands National Park and very close to the Visitor Center and various trailheads. Very quiet and the perfect spot for sunrise and sunset. Ice pack offered at checkout.

Breakfast was simple but good, taken in the tiny reception room of the Rocket Motel. 7:55 AM!! Everyone’s already in the car. It’s 13°C outside!! The temperature will rise quickly with the sun. First stop to photograph the pretty sign at the east entrance of the park.

I get out with Maumau. After taking photos, we return to the car. I see him stiff as a board in front of his open door... a nice dry bison patty waiting for him on the seat!!! The other two jokers left it there while we were taking photos to prank him!!!

"Oh, those jerks, oh the bastards, oh those jerks!!!! Me, I’m not touching that, ew!!!! It’s disgusting!!!! Where the hell did you find that!!!! Get it out of here!!!!" Maumau just won’t stop!!! Too bad you can’t hear him with his Toulon accent. And we’re all cracking up, nearly peeing our pants from laughing!!! Poor Maumau!!! When I tell you we’re still a bunch of teenagers!!! After returning the bison’s gift to the earth, we hit the road again, still laughing our heads off, heading toward Mount Rushmore via Highway 16A. Iron Mountain Road This narrow, winding road, lined with cliffs and beautiful dense pine forests, is unique with its tunnels and especially its pigtail bridges (pig’s tail).

It offers stunning viewpoints from well-designed parking areas as we get closer to Mount Rushmore. Island in the Plain, where we start to see it from very far away.

Norbeck Overlook, where it appears between the pines.

Doane Robinson Tunnel, where you have to park beforehand and dodge cars to take a nice photo from inside.

Mount Rushmore National Memorial. We easily find a spot in the huge parking lot. Everything is well organized. The grand walkway (Avenue of the Flags), lined on both sides by the flags of the different states, leads us to the Grand View Terrace, where we can see the famous monumental sculpture of the four presidents’ faces carved into the granite wall even closer.

From there, we tackle the Presidential Trail, an easy walk of just under a kilometer that brings us up close to Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt, and Lincoln, who tower over us at 18 meters tall.

Just before the climb, you can visit the sculptor’s studio, where you’ll find a model of the initial project, which was supposed to include the busts along with the heads. Despite the steps, the 40-minute walk is fairly easy, shaded, and there are regular rest stops for those who need them. I have a lot of respect for the titanic work of the 400 workers who participated, using dynamite and hammers, but this place didn’t move me at all!! Too much gigantism, too much megalomania, too many people!!! Plus, it’s on sacred land stolen from the original inhabitants of this country. We pay $5 for parking instead of $10 (we’re seniors—or not!!!) and it’s 11:40 AM when we leave this place without too much regret, though you can clearly feel the pride of Americans and their reverence for their country. Fort Hays (2255 Fort Hays Drive) A quick photo stop in this jumble of objects and sets from the movie *Dances with Wolves*.



Even though we know it’s not authentic, we wander around like kids in this old town museum, where a friendly old cowboy proudly shows us his vintage cars while giving us explanations we only understand one word out of three!!!!!!









Scenic After this fun visit, we head back toward the Badlands, passing through Scenic. What a strange place this town is!!! A central road lined with buildings that seem abandoned: a few houses, saloons, a general store, animal skulls, a strong religious presence—but not a single human or ghost in sight!!!!







Either way, we really like it!! We settle under a tree for a picnic without being bothered by little flying critters this time.