18 days of bliss in Morocco!

And there you have it—promise made, promise kept. Here I go! I’m going to try and share our adventure under the Moroccan sun. I’ll do my best to capture how we felt during this trip. And I hope you’ll be kind to a newbie at this!

We planned this trip with the tips we got from this forum, so thank you to everyone who helped us prepare. Thanks to you, we had unforgettable moments.

Here’s our itinerary, which let us see the Atlas Mountains, the oases of the South, the sandy desert, and the Atlantic coast. We landed in Marrakech early in the morning, and our rental car agent was waiting for us at the airport. After sorting out the formalities, we left Marrakech heading toward Ouarzazate.



The heavy traffic in Marrakech quickly gave way to smooth driving. As soon as we left the city, it was calm. And right outside the city, we came across shepherds grazing their sheep by the roadside... It’s definitely a surprise at first! But yes... We’re in Morocco... No doubt about it... We’re in the thick of it! As we started gaining altitude, vendors waved at us, offering dried morels. At first, we weren’t sure what they were selling, but we stopped for tea on a terrace to admire the mountain scenery, and they offered us those famous morels again.





We continued our climb toward Tizi N Tichka... Gigantic valleys stretched out before us. With every turn, we discovered breathtaking landscapes.





Villages built into the hillsides blended into the earth. It was strikingly simple yet harmonious.



At the top of the pass, 2200m up, we stopped to soak in the moment, the fresh air, and the view.

And we carried on toward Ouarzazate. The road was under construction. Mechanical giants were tackling the mountain. But the mountain was enormous. We were impressed by the scale of the work.





Then, we left the main road to head left toward Telouet... It was stunning. The colors changed. Maybe we felt less overwhelmed by the imposing Atlas. Just a personal impression!





Right after passing through Telouet (maybe we’ll shock history buffs—we didn’t visit the kasbah), we went to see the salt mine. It was unexpected. Salt was everywhere. The stream water wound its way between salt crystals and waterfalls. It was really pretty. And then there was the cave. We had a guide for the visit. Stalactites and stalagmites crisscrossed here and there. At the back of the cave, we saw a small lake surrounded by crystals. It was beautiful.







We hit the road again. We drove through stunning landscapes: vast plains for grazing herds, rivers nestled deep in the valleys.



We proudly drove past the ksar Ait Benhaddou without stopping—just long enough to snap a quick photo and keep going so we’d arrive before nightfall.



We made a few small purchases in Ouarzazate and headed straight for the Skoura palm grove, where we’d booked three nights at the guesthouse Kasbah La Palmeraie. Mohamed, the owner, welcomed us warmly, and we shared tea with the family. We felt right at home. We were made to feel welcome.



Dinner was a hit—a real Moroccan meal, a sweet-and-savory dish with steamed vermicelli and chicken. Delicious! A great surprise for us—we’d never tried it before.



After such a long day that started so early, we were happy to crawl into bed. But we felt like the trip was off to the best possible start.

Until tomorrow, if you’d like!

Hi there,

I’ll gladly follow along! I haven’t seen any morel mushroom vendors yet, but I probably just missed the right season. The sweet vermicelli is made with "angel hair" noodles and is called "sfa" in Moroccan. Enjoy the rest of your trip!

Thanks Dominique for the encouragement... And I’ll make a note about the SFA. We were probably told, but we didn’t remember everything.

The wake-up call is early. Probably, without even realizing it, we just don’t want to waste a single moment and want to see as much as possible. We linger a bit on the terrace to soak in everything around us. And when we go downstairs, we’re invited to head to the garden to watch the bread being prepared for breakfast. The fire is lit to heat the earthen oven.



The bread dough is spread on the oven walls. It cooks really quickly. It gets super hot in there! You’d better not have hands that are too sensitive to heat if you’re spreading the dough!



And as soon as it’s done, we move straight to the tasting stage. And it’s delicious, of course! This kind of bread doesn’t exist back home, and it’s a real shame because we wouldn’t hesitate for a second to drive a bit to find some.



After breakfast, following Mohamed’s advice, we head to Toundoute, about twenty kilometers away—it’s market day. Total culture shock! We must be the only Westerners there! It’s a weekly market where people from the whole region come to buy what they need or sell what they produce or make. The main street is packed.





We’re speechless watching the straw being loaded onto trucks. We wonder how it even stays on!



The butchers also amaze us. We’re almost tempted to go vegetarian.





The colors and stalls make for great photos. We try to be discreet so as not to offend anyone.



Wool merchant for rug-making.

Metal door and tool merchant.

Reunions and chats while waiting for the transport buses to leave.

Mopeds are everywhere on Morocco’s roads.

On the way back from the market, we head home. When there’s no more room in the minibus, we travel on the roof—but we keep our good mood.

We buy just enough for a picnic, and as Mohamed suggested, we continue a bit further down the road to discover the almond tree valley. And we’re in for one surprise after another. First, this encounter with a shepherd we think we’ve seen on the forums before. It’s a lovely meeting. We can take photos and show them to the shepherd. We spend a really great moment with this man.

And these wadis nestled between giant mountains, offering the full palette of ochres... Stunning!

And these pretty villages lost at the end of the world but in perfect harmony with their surroundings. How could we not fall for their charm?





After taking in so much beauty, we turn back to head to Skoura. We’re there to admire the sunset from the terrace before sitting down to a delicious rice couscous and tasting goat cheese served with honey.



What a fascinating day... So many amazing discoveries today!

Our second day in Skoura starts with a walk through the palm grove, accompanied by Mohamed, who’ll explain the customs and traditions of the palm grove: irrigation, date harvesting, kasbahs, crops... It’s a fascinating ecosystem.





Pomegranate trees bending under perfectly ripe fruit. And another kasbah—one of the largest: the Kasbah Améridil. Mohamed opens the big door with a huge key and a surprisingly intricate lock.



Lovely views from one of the kasbah’s terraces.



We wrap up the day in the palm grove with a visit to the potter. The pottery workshop is at the far end of the palm grove, so we drive there. We’re welcomed with big smiles and some good tea. We’ll follow every step of making tagines, ovens, and other pottery—from the clay collected in the mountains, crushed, then beaten with a club, sifted, and shaped.



And then fired in the large garden kiln before being sold at the Skoura souk and beyond.

We leave the potter after buying a few small pieces as a souvenir of this amazing moment we shared with him.

Back at the kasbah, night has fallen, the tagine is ready—delicious... The sweet pomegranates are calling our names. We dig in. Mohamed’s wife, Ghislane, really knows her way around the kitchen. She happily lingers for a chat after dinner. We have a great evening in their company.

Thanks for sharing your Moroccan adventure with us. We're looking forward to the next part. It's awesome!

This is awesome! But you could’ve posted it in the travel journals!

You're right, Dominique, I stand corrected. I thought it was automatically filed under travel journals. Live and learn... Same goes for the photos I forget to embed in the text.

That's awesome! But you could've posted it in the travel journals!

Totally agree, that’d be a better fit.

Thanks for this taste of the trip. 😉

Hello,

I’m happy to follow along! You can ask VF to make a correction by categorizing it under travel journals. Best regards, and looking forward to what’s next. Hannah

Hi Léa

I’m traveling too!

We left Skoura after a hearty homemade breakfast of fresh bread and pancakes, still nice and warm. Then we hit the road toward the Dadès Valley, with our first stop by the roadside to admire the view of the oued.

A few kilometers later, we stopped to snap photos of a huge herd drinking in the oued’s meanders, watched over by a calm little donkey.



The scenery is stunning—a pastoral scene we’ll remember forever.

We made a quick detour into the Dadès Gorges to see the famous Monkey Fingers. Legend says it could be a petrified wedding procession!!!



At every photo stop, we’re offered jewelry and souvenirs...

In Tinghir, we had lunch in town. Really nice—Restaurant Central. Afterward, we stopped at the Todra Panorama hostel on the way to the gorges. The road is just breathtaking, overlooking the palm grove, just like the hostel. It has an incredible view.

Hi Léa,

I’ve read and re-read your post but didn’t see when you went?

Who did you rent the car from, please? And a rough price for the 18 days? ;)

Thanks!

We set off as a group of four at the end of October in a Logan rented from Medloc agency for 22 € per day. Diesel car in good condition.

We left as a group of four at the end of October in a Logan rented from the Medloc agency for 22 € per day. Diesel car in good condition.

Thanks so much! 😉

After dropping off our bags at the hostel and before nightfall, we head straight to the Todra Gorge. We’re almost the only ones there—the shops are nearly all closed because the day is winding down. But that only adds to the charm of the place.

We return to the hostel for dinner, served in a cozy, beautifully decorated dining room. After a peaceful night’s sleep, we’re ready for new adventures. But first, breakfast on the terrace. Ahmed, the host, brings out everything imaginable for breakfast. The photo speaks for itself.



After this royal breakfast, we decide to leave our car at the hostel and head down to the palm grove, where the date harvest has begun.





It’s our first time seeing the date harvest, and it’s amazing! The people are friendly, let us take photos, and even let us taste the dates. They’re plump and sweet—delicious! And we’re not even hungry! Another moment we won’t soon forget.

We pick up our car and continue to Rissani. Along the way, we notice small, perfectly aligned volcano-like structures stretching for kilometers on either side of the road. These are ancient wells dug to bring water to cities and villages. We’d seen some in Skoura during our walk with Mohamed through the palm grove, but here, there are *so* many.





I looked it up online and found an episode of *C’est pas sorcier* that explained how these wells work. Really well done and super interesting!

By early afternoon, we’re in Rissani. Lunch on the terrace at the *Restaurant Central*, just like in Tinghir. We go for the local specialty: *pizza medfouna*. Really good, not too greasy, and the server was super friendly!



And slowly, we’re getting closer to the desert... We spot the dunes of Erg Chebbi in the distance. We take a left turn toward the village of Hasselbleit. We haven’t booked anything, but our *Routard* guide knows *Auberge L’Oasis*. We check it out and see the rooms—the welcome is warm, and the view is incredible! We settle in.



Without waiting, we rush to step onto the desert sand... As fine as flour and more colorful than we imagined.

Right in front of the dunes, the village men are playing *dames* (checkers). It’s a daily ritual.

Here are the men from the village gathered at the foot of the dune, right near the oasis gardens where water flows generously through the irrigation canals. You’d almost forget you’re in the desert!



So we set off on foot to explore the sand dunes... It’s pretty intense!



We head back at sunset. A nice hot shower would’ve been great, but no hot water. Cold shower it is—good for circulation, right? Dinner with a small group. No Moroccan specialties. The food was pretty bland. But the night was peaceful—no noise at all.

The next morning, as soon as we’re up, we go see the camels returning from the bivouacs. There are *so* many of them. And right after breakfast, we hit the road to Lake Merzouga, which, unusually, is full of water. A whole flock of pink flamingos is bathing and fishing in the distance, just out of reach for us amateur photographers. But we’re consoled by the camels coming to drink at the lake.







And just like that, we’re ready to hit the road again. Destination: Taliouine. But we won’t make it there... not today. Along the way, we get caught in a massive storm. Visibility drops to zero. We have to stop. And when we try to move on, the wadis have overflowed. We’re stuck—multiple times!





What surprised us most was how suddenly the weather changed. Unbelievable! But everything quickly got back to normal. Once we knew we were out of trouble, we stopped for tea at a little roadside café. The waiter bragged about the quality of "his fridge." That evening, we stayed in Agdz, right across from the soccer field. The sun came back timidly. But the next day, it was all over. The road was dry, the sun was shining again, and the sky was perfectly blue. We had a picnic lunch on the terrace of a café in Igherm—a very rural town, but really charming. We saw a group of young girls in beautiful outfits... Maybe they were on their way to a ceremony?

On the road to Taliouine, we drove through areas with really barren soil. We wondered what the animals could possibly find to eat in these parts—especially since we spotted some nice sheepfolds every now and then!



The landscapes are stunning, and this village, split in two by a quirk of nature, caught our attention. So unusual! Not exactly easy to go have dinner at your neighbor’s place!

And this one, which for me, symbolizes Morocco all on its own... Extraordinary!

Just before arriving in Taliouine, we wanted to see the granary of Ifri. We left the main road, took a left, and reached the village by crossing a dry riverbed. As we got closer, we started to make out the granary in the cliff.



We were guided during the visit by little girls from the village, perfectly francophone and adorable. Small ladders like these allow access to the granaries carved into the cliff. Some compartments are still used to store grain. A woman from the village came to fetch a bucket of wheat during our visit.

This visit was another highlight of the trip.

At the entrance of Taliouine, we stopped at the Toubkal camping hostel. We settled in and then visited the town and the saffron museum. The museum was a bit disappointing. The film played on loop—it was really brief, and the same photos kept reappearing. Not very interesting. We continued exploring the town and went to see Hassan, the cobbler, who recycles plastic and fabric into babouches, bags, and more. He’s charming and passionate—just as friendly as he is talented. We picked out a pair of jeans, and he made us a custom pair of babouches. They’d be ready by 10 a.m. the next day.



Back at the hostel, we enjoyed the stunning mountain view from the terrace. Dinner was excellent: beef skewers with fries—so good!

The next day, before leaving Taliouine, we went to pick up our babouches. We were really happy with the craftsmanship—it was meticulous and perfect! We bought a few grams of saffron to spice up our cooking back home and hit the road to Tafraout.

When we entered the Tafraout valley, it took our breath away. It was incredible! We headed straight to the Amelne Arganier Hotel, often recommended on this forum. The welcome was warm, and the place was amazing!



We took a stroll through town... to the babouche souk... and guess what we bought? More babouches! We wandered around the town center and were surprised to see all the women dressed in black.

We returned to enjoy the sunset from the terrace, with the valley’s lion watching us mischievously. That evening, we feasted on a tajine with dried fruits—a true delight!

Our second day in Tafraoute starts under the sun, and it's souk day in the city center. We're going to meet all the women we spotted last night in their elegant black, embroidered outfits, carrying the region's typical baskets.







The animal souk



The bread seller photographed from the terrace of Le Tanger restaurant during lunch, in front of a generous couscous.

In the afternoon, we're going to get some exercise and walk among the painted rocks. It's a quirky idea, but the site is remarkable, with breathtaking beauty.









Our little trip outside the city ends at the small village with the pink mosque, Tafraoute's emblem. It's charming!



On the way back, we wander around town a bit... We linger to watch the doughnut specialist. It's quite an art! A perfectly mastered art...



We can't resist the temptation... We sit down for some tea and doughnuts. Even the presentation of the doughnuts is artistic.

Slightly sweet, these doughnuts are delicious.

We head back to the hotel. A little rest before dinner. The day has been packed. And amazing. Delicious dinner: chicken with argan oil and almonds.

Lovely travel journal. The photos are so pleasant and truly capture Morocco.

Great recap of your trip!

Thanks for your understanding. That’s really kind of you. I realize I keep making the same mistakes with my photos. I’ll try to be more careful.

Personally, I didn’t notice anything wrong, and I agree—it was amazing!

When we leave Tafraoute the next morning, it’s to head back to the coast—specifically Sidi Ifni. But first, we follow the ocean for a good while before arriving. The ocean as far as the eye can see.



The ocean and its fishermen casting their lines.





The ocean and its mussel gatherers. Some seriously big mussels...





The beach mosque.

And then we discover Sidi Ifni, with the ocean right at its feet. From the terrace of the Hôtel Belle Vue, where we dropped our bags, we get a panoramic view of the ocean. Stunning!



Dinner in town, near the fish market. A tajine of... fish. So good!

View from our balcony, morning upon waking. It's wonderful!



After a good night's sleep, lulled by the sound of the waves, we head down for breakfast in front of the old airfield. That's where the weekend souk takes place... Such a great moment. Several types of breakfasts are offered. Then, we set off to see Legzira Beach and its arch. When we arrive, the beach is shrouded in mist. It's a bit mysterious, strange, and stunning... The tide is high.





We stay for lunch on the beach. We decide to go for octopus. Bad choice! Rubbery octopus... Really not great! But the view is beautiful...

The tide has gone out, and the mist has cleared.



We head back to Sidi Ifni... A little stroll through town and the evening market. We're surprised to find the same doughnuts as in Tafraout. Of course, we want to check if they're as good as those in Tafraout...

In the evening, we dine just a stone's throw from our hotel, at the Nomad restaurant. Lovely terrace, pleasant music, and refined cuisine served on beautiful tableware. Candlelit dinner. We didn't want to leave Sidi Ifni without having a proper octopus dish. And this time, we're delighted.



So, we leave Sidi Ifni the next morning. We head back toward Agadir before continuing to Aourir, at the gates of paradise. We stop at the Inou Hotel. The rooms are very pleasant, and you can see the sea from the terrace. But it's no match for the Bellevue in Sidi Ifni.

I see that the magic of Morocco worked its charm again! So glad! Thanks for sharing.

Oh yes, this itinerary is pure bliss! It's so beautiful and so diverse! And each of us experiences things in our own way. We don’t all see the same things. That’s the whole point of reading different travel journals.

hi there my travel journals keep coming, but the magic of Morocco still works for me! such a shame I skipped the ksar of Aït Benhaddou, but hey, I’m a huge fan of this place where I spent so much time back when there were only 2 hostels! 😕 I’ll jump on the camel while it’s moving! thanks francia

Sunday morning, we wanted to head to Agadir, to the El Had souk... The crowd was huge—tourists, of course, but mostly locals from Agadir. So much fruit and veggies!







And an impressive load of eggs!



We don’t buy bananas in Agadir, though—we get them in Aourir, which is surrounded by banana plantations. Small, super sweet bananas, so good! And shops that sell *only* bananas... how do you make a living selling just bananas when everyone else does too? Not easy, I’d guess!!!

And here are the bananas from Aourir!



After leaving the Agadir souk, we park near the Ferris wheel, just steps from the main beach, and take a long walk along the beautifully developed seaside promenade. It feels so different from the Morocco we’ve seen so far.



After Agadir and its long beach, we head to Taghazout, the surfers’ village. It’s kept a lot of its charm despite the major construction work nearby. Its little beach is gorgeous.

The coast beyond Taghazout becomes more rugged and wild. And in the evening, we head to Imouran restaurant, right on the beach of the same name, for some grilled fish. It’s amazing! Really amazing!

Beautiful images of Morocco seen through your eyes! Everyone has their own Morocco! A really pleasant stroll, all in simplicity.

Thanks Michèle. For me, the main thing is to best showcase what we saw and the welcome we received. Pure happiness for us. As for the travel journal, I knew it would take time, but maybe not *this* much... I should mention I'm just starting out. Sometimes my photos upload, sometimes they don’t. I often have to try several times... And I sometimes have to give up when the format isn’t right.

"We don’t buy bananas in Agadir, but in Aourir, which is surrounded by banana plantations. Sweet little bananas, really tasty. And shops that sell nothing but bananas... how do you make a living selling only bananas when everyone else does too? Not easy, I’d say!!!"

You can ask yourself the same question when strolling through the souks of Marrakech, for example...

The next morning, we wanted to head to paradise. That’s partly why we chose Aourir as our base camp. So, we grabbed some picnic supplies and set off for paradise. We quickly left the town behind, and with Maps’ help, we made steady progress. The road follows the oued, which is almost dry. Only a few pools and small streams remain... We drove between steep cliffs, sometimes feeling like we were right in the riverbed... And we probably were! After about twenty kilometers, the road climbs, with one hairpin turn after another. We overlooked the valley... It was amazing! Soon, we spotted a parking lot on our right and pulled in. We weren’t the only ones. A local guide offered to take us into the valley. Great idea, since it’s steep and there are no signs. Eventually, we reached small natural pools—but no swimmers. The water level was really low. Lahousseine, our guide, explained that the summer had been hot and it hadn’t rained in a long time. Paradise was running out of water. But not tourists... from all over the world. We stopped for tea at one of the many valley bars and headed back to the parking lot, a little disappointed by the site. We’d expected something different, and on top of that, it was littered with trash. What a shame!

Seeing our disappointed faces, our guide suggested showing us another side of paradise—his paradise, his village, the gardens, the palm grove. And we followed him to the village. The gardens were short on water but still pretty. It was peaceful. It was clean.



Lahousseine then took us to discover stunning viewpoints over the valley. The colors were incredible, blazing. What light!



We’d found paradise... And it wasn’t over yet. Lahousseine invited us for tea at his little house. That’s where we all picnicked together over some good tea. We met his wife. When we arrived, she was busy making argan oil. Hard work! She didn’t speak French, but we communicated just fine. She was radiant.

And that was our day in paradise!

And our trip ends in Marrakech. Just one day before flying back to France. So, we’ll make do with the medina and the souks. It’s crowded—school holidays have started... We wander around the adventurers' souk.





And then there are the olive vendors—so colorful... What a beautiful display!



At lunchtime, we grabbed a bite at the Berber FNAC... The bookstore, no longer feeding its man, has turned into a café-restaurant. And it’s really nice...

Refreshed, we continued our stroll through the souks. The pastries left us in awe! Tiny works of art! And they’re delicious!



And in Jemaa El Fna square, we were surprised to find plant nurseries. We’d be tempted to buy some, but the climate might not suit these heat-loving beauties.

And that’s that... Our wonderful Moroccan adventure comes to an end. Until we return, I’ve relived my trip by writing this travel journal. I enjoyed doing it... Thanks for following along and cheering me on.

Hi there, people don’t just sell bananas—they grow lots of other crops too! That’s how things used to be: mixed farming, small-scale livestock. And often family members who work in the city! francia

Are dyers adventurers?

Thanks Léa for this end to the trip. It brings back such great food memories—those pastries!

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Thanks, Romuald. All those miniature pastries are such a treat!

Only in small quantities for me because it's very sweet, to my taste.

Lovely walk. Thanks for taking the time to share it.

Thanks to all of you and happy 2020!

Just FYI, the small mosque photographed in Tafraoute is the Aday Mosque... a neighboring village to Tafraoute. There you go, error corrected.

This isn’t really a mistake, just a clarification. On the postcards from Tafraoute, this cute little mosque is always marked as being in Tafraoute. It’s actually just on the way out.

Absolutely! Have a great day.

The pastries leave us speechless! Tiny works of art! And they're delicious!

Moroccan mignardises! Excellent!

Hey, isn't there much wind on the Agadir side?

Agadir enjoys a pleasant climate all year round. Not too hot, not too cold, not too windy... It's a huge plus!

thanks buddy I think back in the day I saw the Rough Guide mentioned there’s a lot of wind right in Agadir—that’s why I’m asking thanks, got it

As soon as you go south of Cape Rhir, it’s lovely. Rhir—I think that’s the wind? To be confirmed.