Self-drive in southwestern Uganda, February 2020 (page 1 of 5)

Since I used this forum a lot to prepare our trip, here’s a little feedback from our 15-day self-drive adventure in southwestern Uganda. For those who have questions, don’t hesitate! I’ll do my best to answer them 😉

We’d already traveled quite a bit in South Africa and once in Namibia, always self-driving. When the idea of visiting Uganda came up, we debated—especially me 😛—whether to go solo or with a guide. My husband quickly convinced me to do it self-drive, so I started planning and organizing the trip accordingly. We began preparations and bookings in June 2019 for a trip scheduled during the first two weeks of February 2020. We deliberately chose to explore just a small part of Uganda and take our time. We traveled as a group of four, with our oldest son and his partner.

Here’s our itinerary: - February 1: Departure from Brussels, arrival and overnight in Entebbe - February 2: Drive to Lake Mburo and overnight there - February 3: Drive to Lake Bunyonyi and overnight there - February 4: Boat ride on the lake, then departure for Kisoro. Overnight there - February 5: Trek in Mount Mgahinga National Park for the youngsters. Overnight in Kisoro - February 6: Drive to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Overnight in Rushaga - February 7: Gorilla tracking in Rushaga. Overnight in Rushaga - February 8: Drive to Queen Elizabeth National Park – Southern sector – Overnight on the park’s edge - February 9: Morning in the southern sector of the park, then crossing to the northern part – Short safari in the late afternoon – Overnight by the Kazinga Channel - February 10: Safari and boat cruise – Second night on site - February 11: Drive to Kibale Forest – Overnight there - February 12: Chimpanzee tracking in the morning – Bigodi swamps in the afternoon – Second night there - February 13: Scenic drive to see the crater lakes + walk at Lake Nkuruba Nature Reserve – Third night there - February 14: Return to Entebbe - February 15: Morning boat ride in the Mabamba swamps – Afternoon by Lake Victoria and midnight flight to Brussels. That’s the broad outline of our trip.

We fell in love with this country: the people, the kids shouting "muzungu," the colors, the landscapes, the wildlife... But we were also saddened by the poverty in some villages and the child labor, especially in "quarries."

I’ll try to post a day-by-day account if it interests anyone.

February 1st Early morning departure from home, in the cold and rain, to reach Brussels Airport. The Brussels Airlines flight will leave 30 minutes late. We have a one-hour layover in Kigali where we stay on the plane. We arrive on time at 10:45 PM in Entebbe. We queue for the visa (already paid online) for a very long time. You’ll need to be patient with the organization. We collect our luggage, which had plenty of time to arrive on the belt 😉

The driver from the hotel where we’re staying tonight is waiting for us outside the airport. And there, dressed in our jeans and sweaters, we realize it’s still very warm at midnight. Which, actually, is great news for us 🙂 First glimpse of Entebbe during the short drive to the hotel.

Tonight, we’re staying at Precious Guesthouse, located opposite the botanical garden. Despite our very late arrival, we received a warm welcome and were able to have dinner there. We don’t need any convincing to head straight to bed. It’s already 1:30 AM, and it’ll be a short night.

February 2nd Breakfast at 7:30 AM, ordered when we arrived the night before. This will be a constant throughout the trip—we order breakfast during dinner the night before, lunch during breakfast, and dinner during lunch or in the afternoon. At first, it might feel a bit odd, but it actually makes things easier and reduces waiting time. The weather is a bit gray, but it’s warm.



We have a meet-up at 8 AM at the hotel with a guy from the agency where we rented our car (Roadtrip Africa). He’s there, but the car isn’t... He explains there’s a small issue with the car, that he’ll go get it, and will be back in 20 minutes. He gives us a folder with technical info about the car, practical tips about the roads and parks, and a Bradt guide. He finally returns with the car at 9 AM. We booked a Toyota Land Cruiser. We knew it wouldn’t be brand new, and that was confirmed. The interior had seen better days. But we figured that with all the dust we’d be "eating," it wasn’t such a bad thing that the car wasn’t spotless 😛





We do a walk-around of the car, get a briefing, and then head to Victoria Mall (3 minutes from the hotel) for a few errands. We really start our journey around 10 AM, heading toward Lake Mburo. Following the agency guy’s advice, we take the fast road and exit at Kisubi, where we take a gorgeous track that leads us to the main road between Kampala and Mbarara.





The track isn’t too challenging. And there, we really feel like we’re in Africa, and we think: this trip is going to be amazing 🙂 We’re already won over. We join the main road, which is in excellent condition. We pass through many villages, with lots of people everywhere, cows, goats, stalls, "shops," etc.





We arrive around noon at the Equator line. Photo stop mandatory 😛 and lunch break at the Equator Line Restaurant, where we try our first rolex.





We hit the road again. The sky clouds over, and it starts raining lightly. So we use the windshield wipers. And then, the right wiper flips over. We stop, straighten it, and start driving again. We try it, and it flips over again. Another stop—we take a closer look and realize it’s very rusty and has already been repaired. The weld is barely holding. If we keep using the wipers, we risk losing one... So we stop in a village and remove the wiper. Two men spontaneously come over. We explain the situation, and they take my husband and son across the road to someone who can weld. We agree on the repair price beforehand. The repair is done, we reinstall the wiper, and test it. The weld doesn’t hold... Back to the "welder," who this time goes all out. The weld holds for the rest of the trip 😛



Good thing we fixed it right away... we’ll face a few thunderstorms in the afternoon. We take the track to Lake Mburo. The first part goes smoothly, but the track gets deeply rutted in the second half. Luckily, it’s no longer raining, and the track is relatively dry. We see kob antelopes, zebras, and Ankole cattle with their impressive horns.





We arrive around 4:30 PM at Rwakobo Rock, where we’re staying tonight. We enjoy the pool and the extraordinary view of the park and surroundings. The sky is overcast, and a storm rumbles in the distance.

I’ll try to do a day-by-day account if it interests anyone.

Yes, yes, we’re interested!!!

February 3 We woke up to warm, sunny weather. Before breakfast, we decided to hike up to the « Top of the Rock », a rocky promontory on the property. Apparently, there’s a stunning 180° view, and we were eager to enjoy it. But we hadn’t counted on the baboons… who also wanted to take advantage of it. Our attempt was short-lived. We backed down 🤪





We tried again after breakfast and this time, we were greeted by vervet monkeys. They were much more willing to let us enjoy the view, which was indeed beautiful.





During trip planning, we hadn’t scheduled any activities for that morning, thinking we’d decide on the spot whether to do a safari in Lake Mburo National Park. In the end, we decided against it. First, because we didn’t have much time to spend in the park (max 2 hours—you could say we’d have had more if we’d gotten up earlier 😛), and it would’ve cost us $160 for 4 people plus the car. Second, because we’d already done several safaris in South Africa, and that wasn’t the focus of this Uganda trip.

We left the lodge around 10:45 AM and got back on the track, where we spotted our first Ugandan impalas (stockier than the South African ones).





We rejoined the main road and headed toward Mbarara, which we didn’t drive through. Instead, we took the Mbarara bypass. There was still a lot of activity along the road—boda-bodas and speed bumps by the dozen (we’d hit so many during our trip 😅).







We gained altitude, and the weather cooled down. The landscapes became even more beautiful, with the first hills, terraced fields, banana trees, and pineapple plantations.







We arrived in Kabale, and wow—it was bustling: crowds, bikes, boda-bodas, life everywhere. The Africa we’d imagined. We were so focused on the traffic that we forgot to take photos 😅.



We continued on our way when suddenly, a policeman lying in the grass (hiding 😛) jumped up, ran toward us, and stopped us. He greeted us politely, asked where we were from, and then told us we’d been speeding (58 km/h instead of 50). He explained that, in principle, he should send us back to the village we’d just passed to pay the fine, but that would be complicated since we didn’t live in Uganda. He said, "What are we going to do?"—hinting that it’d be nice if we gave him a bill to avoid further formalities. He pretended to write us a ticket (to keep up appearances for his colleagues, he said 😇), and we slipped him a bill. We’d been expecting it. The car rental guy had warned us this might happen if we got pulled over, but that we should always wait for the officer to make the first move.

Shortly after, we took the track leading to Lake Bunyonyi. The first part was beautiful and pleasant, but it was also where we saw adults—and children—digging into rocky cliffs to extract stones, breaking them into small pebbles by hand. It was shocking and heartbreaking.





The views of the lake were stunning, but the track got increasingly difficult (especially for us, since we’re not 4x4 experts—Belgium *is* called the flat country for a reason 😛). In some spots, it was very muddy, and we passed through a few small villages. Then the storm rolled in, soaking everything in no time. Driving became more and more challenging, with limited visibility, deep muddy ruts, and dips we hoped weren’t too deep. We slid a few times. We just hoped we wouldn’t have to get out and walk 😉 A little stress in the car, and as usual when we’re hyper-focused, no photos.

We finally arrived—around 4:15 PM—at Lake Bunyonyi Rock Resort, but in pouring rain. We couldn’t get out of the car without getting soaked, since the parking lot wasn’t right next to the lodge. We waited 15–20 minutes before stepping out.

Small note: This lodge is one of the farthest from the start of the track. I hadn’t realized that when I booked. There are other hotels by the lake that are much closer and easier to access when the weather’s bad.

Luckily, the view from the restaurant and rooms was gorgeous. The rain let up, and though it was chilly, we enjoyed the calm and beauty of the place from our balcony.







After dinner, we headed to our rooms with a hot water bottle… and one question: What would the track be like tomorrow?

Good evening, Lovely photos and a great travel journal.

But the whole thing with the police officer and the bribe—I really don’t get it. I also don’t understand the agency’s advice. If you didn’t speed, you’ve got nothing to pay, end of story. If you did speed and need to pay in the previous village, you get a fine and pay what’s due there. Why play along with corruption?

But the cop-and-bribe thing—I really don’t get it. I also don’t get the agency’s advice. If you didn’t speed, you’ve got nothing to pay, end of story. If you did speed and you’re supposed to pay in the previous village, you get a fine and pay what you owe there. What’s the point of playing the corruption game?

Like you, I think we shouldn’t play the corruption game. Unfortunately, tourists don’t always think about the consequences.

Hi there,

I’ll be following your travel journal with pleasure, even if I don’t quite see eye to eye with you on that fine and the corruption that comes with it.

Carmen

Yes, and in this specific case, I think the agency is largely responsible for giving the impression that this was the right approach. You can't then blame visitors for doing exactly what they were advised to do, since they don't know the country. As the advisors and experts, the agency should have explained how to handle this kind of situation. And in my opinion, baksheesh is certainly not the right way to go.

Hi Rotsaka and Ticapi,

First of all, thanks for taking the time to read my travel journal.

About the fine and the bribe, what can I say... we definitely made the rookie mistake in this country. And since the rental agency told us it was common, we went along with it. I can’t turn back time, but hopefully this will help future travelers.

Hope you’ll stick around for the rest of the trip 😉 Have a great day

Hi, Of course we’ll keep reading the travel journal. It’s really well written, the photos are beautiful, and there’s a lot of detail. And after that, the point is to share it on the forum and compare perspectives—to learn from each other.

Regarding the fine and the bribe, what can I say... we definitely made the beginner’s mistake in this country. And since the rental agency told us it was usual, we did it. I can’t go back in time, but hopefully this will help future travelers.

We all make mistakes—the important thing is to talk about them and own up to them.😉

Hope you’ll stick around for the rest of the trip 😉 Have a great day

Of course, I’ll stick around.🙂 Have a great day too.

Carmen

February 4 First instinct upon waking: open the curtains. The sun is out!

At 9:30 AM, we set off by boat to explore the lake and its various islands.



We’re accompanied by a guide who tells us the history of some islands, including the infamous "Punishment Island," and shares details about the local wildlife and flora.







It’s fascinating, the weather is perfect, and the landscapes are stunning. We’re soaking it all in.









Around noon, we return to the lodge for lunch. The weather had clouded over toward the end of the excursion, and now rain is threatening. We don’t linger—no desire to retrace our steps on that track in a storm. The track has dried since the day before, but some sections are still very muddy. Another challenge, and a 4x4 is essential. The rain starts, but luckily, we’re near the end of the track. We enjoy the last views of the lake.



We reach the main road and head toward Kisoro. The road is smooth, with far fewer cars and trucks, but just as many people and animals 😊.



We’re gaining altitude, and we see our first tea plantations—far fewer banana trees. The landscapes shift again, with rolling hills everywhere. It’s breathtaking.



We arrive in Kisoro around 4:15 PM. Today, we’re settling in at the Travellers Rest Hotel, one of Uganda’s oldest hotels. Retro charm and a serene atmosphere in the beautiful garden. As we’ve done since the start of the trip, we take the late afternoon to relax and unwind.



While exploring the garden, near the staff quarters at the back, we hear a huge commotion. We approach the trees, expecting a flock of birds, but no—it’s bats. An incredible sight.





Dinner at the hotel, and the kids head to bed early. Tomorrow, they’re tackling Mount Sabinyo in Mount Mgahinga National Park.

Hi there! Count me in for a self-drive trip in Uganda—I’d love to join, especially in these tough times... a little dreaming goes a long way!

Hello

Need some encouragement for what's next? These are tough times for travelers (among others), so it’d be much appreciated... 😉 Muriel

Thanks for the encouragement! I haven’t forgotten the rest ;) I’ll get back to it tonight or tomorrow. In the meantime, I’ve added a couple of photos to the previous posts.

Have a great evening

5 February Woke up at dawn for the two youngsters in the group. Departure was scheduled for 7:00 sharp in front of the hotel. The driver who was supposed to pick them up wasn’t there. The hotel receptionist tried desperately to contact him but with no luck. Our son came to wake us up, and we jumped out of bed to drive them ourselves—the meet-up at the trek’s starting point was at 7:45. There’s only 14 km between the hotel and the park, but we’d read that it takes between 45 minutes and an hour to get there. By the time we threw on our clothes, the driver finally showed up at 7:15. I don’t know how he managed the drive, but they made it to the starting point right on time! 😅

Meanwhile, us "oldies" (especially the non-sporty ones) took the morning to stroll around Kisoro and do some shopping. It was really nice to explore the town on foot instead of by car and soak up the local vibe. Back at the hotel for lunch. The weather was dry but overcast.

At noon, I got a message from my daughter-in-law saying she’d reached the last of the three peaks they had to climb. My son made it 30 minutes later. The descent should take them 3 or 4 hours.

Around 1:15 PM, we set off for Mount Mgahinga National Park. It took us 45 minutes to get there via a dry but *very* bumpy road. We passed through a few villages, always bustling with people and animals. The final climb to the park entrance was pretty steep.





For those who don’t know, this park sits at the border of three countries—Uganda, Rwanda, and the Congo—and you can track gorillas *and* golden monkeys here.



Since we had some time before the young athletes returned from their trek, we decided to take a short walk, but it had to be with a ranger—there are buffalo in the park, so solo walks are off-limits. As it turned out, our ranger was super friendly. We followed her up a narrow trail, scrambling a bit, until we reached the "platform view," which wasn’t a platform at all but a clearing with a view of the Congo in the distance.



We sat on some logs to take in the view and chatted with our guide. We were just relaxing when suddenly we heard noise behind us—getting louder. The guide said it might be a buffalo. We looked back but saw nothing, though the trees were shaking. Then she changed her mind: "Not buffalo—gorillas!" You can imagine our excitement. But she explained we couldn’t stay because we hadn’t paid for gorilla tracking. If the trackers following the gorillas saw us with her, she could lose her job. So, we left—reluctantly—but not before catching a quick glimpse of two gorillas. It was brief but intense. We really weren’t expecting that!

We headed back to the starting point and waited patiently in the car for about an hour for the athletes to return. They arrived around 4:30 PM, exhausted but happy after conquering Mount Sabinyo (3,600 m). The last peak sits right at the border of the three countries. Our son said he’d never done anything so tough—they’re athletic but not used to high-altitude climbing. Some in their group had given up after the first or second peak. We were so proud they made it all the way!

After the congratulations 😊, we took the bumpy road back toward Lake Mutanda. We reached Kisoro and took a track leading to the Mutanda Eco Community Center, where we were supposed to stay that night. The view of the lake was stunning, but the wooden cabins were *very* basic. The path to the rooms was steep, rocky, and slippery, and there wasn’t really a proper shower—after a trek, all you want is a good shower. So, we decided not to stay there. P.S.: My husband had spotted this place on Google Earth, and it *is* beautifully located. Before we left, I’d seen a few photos and had doubts about staying there—especially that night—but my husband really wanted to stay by the lake. The other hotel further along the shore was too expensive.



We headed back to Kisoro.



The Travellers’ Rest Hotel was fully booked, so we settled for the Kisoro Tourist Hotel. I’ll admit, it wasn’t great—the rooms were a bit run-down—but they were clean, and there was a shower ;). Plus, it was right in the center of Kisoro, which let us discover the Pot Coffee Café just across the street. We had dinner there, and it’s definitely worth recommending!

Back at the hotel in the rain. Well, we *had* to have at least one rainy day, right? :P

6 February This morning, the weather is still overcast but a bit warmer. The four of us take a little stroll around town and buy takeaway sandwiches from the Coffee Pot Café for our lunch.

We leave Kisoro around 10:45 AM, heading toward Bwindi Forest. The road is pleasant, with no major difficulties. We follow Lake Mulehe.



We pass through a few small villages. There’s always something to see along the way: colorful clothes 🙂, brick kilns we’ve seen in almost every village during our trip; endless shades of green; tea plantations...









The landscapes are stunning again. We’re mesmerized by this lush nature.









We get a little rain now and then but also some lovely sunny spells.



After a 2-hour drive—such a nice short leg today 😊—we arrive in the rain at Ichumbi Gorilla Lodge in Rushaga. We’d booked the family cottage (two adjoining rooms with connecting terraces), but one of the rooms was already occupied. So, we’re given separate rooms, quite far apart (not an issue for us since our “kids” are adults). The rooms are spacious, nicely decorated with a lovely terrace, but contrary to what we thought, the view of Bwindi Forest isn’t clear.



However, the view from the restaurant terrace, which is higher up, offers more openness. We eat our sandwiches there and enjoy a relaxing afternoon.

Around 3/4 PM, a few German travelers return from their gorilla trek. They tell us they’re part of a group of 19 people, split into three smaller groups for the trek. They’re the first to return to the hotel. We chat with them about their experience—apparently really nice and not too difficult (they were in the medium-difficulty group). They show us some photos, which reassures us for tomorrow. The second group returns around 6 PM, exhausted... they were the “easy” group. Oops... We talk to a woman who tells us about her adventures today: endless ups and downs, mud... We’re suddenly a lot less reassured. The last group arrives at 7 PM. The stress level rises another notch, especially for my husband and me 😊. We trained before the trip but aren’t very sporty and have some aches in our backs and knees. Plus, during their trek on Mount Sabinyo, my son and daughter-in-law met a group of Belgians who’d done the trek two days earlier, also in Rushaga, and it took them 9 hours.

Will we manage to sleep well tonight and be in shape for tomorrow?

Will we manage to sleep well tonight and be in shape for tomorrow?

Adrenaline keeps us going, right? 😉 I’m so excited to hear which gorilla group you got (we saw the Bweza group; they told us it was "medium" but it only took us 4 hours) and how it went... Muriel

Hi there,

It's funny—even though it's not at all on the usual route, you're the second people in a row who've been to Mgahinga NP and Rushaga in Bwindi 😉

And I have to say, Mgahinga is really tempting me. 😛

By the way, what do the young folks say about their trek—is it really beautiful, regardless of the difficulty?

Thanks again for sharing your amazing trip! 🙂

I'm working on the next part. It'll be up tonight or tomorrow. The wait shouldn't be too long ;)

Anyway, thanks for following our trip.