Self-drive in southwestern Uganda, February 2020

Since I used this forum a lot to prepare our trip, here’s a little feedback from our 15-day self-drive adventure in southwestern Uganda. For those who have questions, don’t hesitate! I’ll do my best to answer them 😉

We’d already traveled quite a bit in South Africa and once in Namibia, always self-driving. When the idea of visiting Uganda came up, we debated—especially me 😛—whether to go solo or with a guide. My husband quickly convinced me to do it self-drive, so I started planning and organizing the trip accordingly. We began preparations and bookings in June 2019 for a trip scheduled during the first two weeks of February 2020. We deliberately chose to explore just a small part of Uganda and take our time. We traveled as a group of four, with our oldest son and his partner.

Here’s our itinerary: - February 1: Departure from Brussels, arrival and overnight in Entebbe - February 2: Drive to Lake Mburo and overnight there - February 3: Drive to Lake Bunyonyi and overnight there - February 4: Boat ride on the lake, then departure for Kisoro. Overnight there - February 5: Trek in Mount Mgahinga National Park for the youngsters. Overnight in Kisoro - February 6: Drive to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Overnight in Rushaga - February 7: Gorilla tracking in Rushaga. Overnight in Rushaga - February 8: Drive to Queen Elizabeth National Park – Southern sector – Overnight on the park’s edge - February 9: Morning in the southern sector of the park, then crossing to the northern part – Short safari in the late afternoon – Overnight by the Kazinga Channel - February 10: Safari and boat cruise – Second night on site - February 11: Drive to Kibale Forest – Overnight there - February 12: Chimpanzee tracking in the morning – Bigodi swamps in the afternoon – Second night there - February 13: Scenic drive to see the crater lakes + walk at Lake Nkuruba Nature Reserve – Third night there - February 14: Return to Entebbe - February 15: Morning boat ride in the Mabamba swamps – Afternoon by Lake Victoria and midnight flight to Brussels. That’s the broad outline of our trip.

We fell in love with this country: the people, the kids shouting "muzungu," the colors, the landscapes, the wildlife... But we were also saddened by the poverty in some villages and the child labor, especially in "quarries."

I’ll try to post a day-by-day account if it interests anyone.

February 1st Early morning departure from home, in the cold and rain, to reach Brussels Airport. The Brussels Airlines flight will leave 30 minutes late. We have a one-hour layover in Kigali where we stay on the plane. We arrive on time at 10:45 PM in Entebbe. We queue for the visa (already paid online) for a very long time. You’ll need to be patient with the organization. We collect our luggage, which had plenty of time to arrive on the belt 😉

The driver from the hotel where we’re staying tonight is waiting for us outside the airport. And there, dressed in our jeans and sweaters, we realize it’s still very warm at midnight. Which, actually, is great news for us 🙂 First glimpse of Entebbe during the short drive to the hotel.

Tonight, we’re staying at Precious Guesthouse, located opposite the botanical garden. Despite our very late arrival, we received a warm welcome and were able to have dinner there. We don’t need any convincing to head straight to bed. It’s already 1:30 AM, and it’ll be a short night.

February 2nd Breakfast at 7:30 AM, ordered when we arrived the night before. This will be a constant throughout the trip—we order breakfast during dinner the night before, lunch during breakfast, and dinner during lunch or in the afternoon. At first, it might feel a bit odd, but it actually makes things easier and reduces waiting time. The weather is a bit gray, but it’s warm.



We have a meet-up at 8 AM at the hotel with a guy from the agency where we rented our car (Roadtrip Africa). He’s there, but the car isn’t... He explains there’s a small issue with the car, that he’ll go get it, and will be back in 20 minutes. He gives us a folder with technical info about the car, practical tips about the roads and parks, and a Bradt guide. He finally returns with the car at 9 AM. We booked a Toyota Land Cruiser. We knew it wouldn’t be brand new, and that was confirmed. The interior had seen better days. But we figured that with all the dust we’d be "eating," it wasn’t such a bad thing that the car wasn’t spotless 😛





We do a walk-around of the car, get a briefing, and then head to Victoria Mall (3 minutes from the hotel) for a few errands. We really start our journey around 10 AM, heading toward Lake Mburo. Following the agency guy’s advice, we take the fast road and exit at Kisubi, where we take a gorgeous track that leads us to the main road between Kampala and Mbarara.





The track isn’t too challenging. And there, we really feel like we’re in Africa, and we think: this trip is going to be amazing 🙂 We’re already won over. We join the main road, which is in excellent condition. We pass through many villages, with lots of people everywhere, cows, goats, stalls, "shops," etc.





We arrive around noon at the Equator line. Photo stop mandatory 😛 and lunch break at the Equator Line Restaurant, where we try our first rolex.





We hit the road again. The sky clouds over, and it starts raining lightly. So we use the windshield wipers. And then, the right wiper flips over. We stop, straighten it, and start driving again. We try it, and it flips over again. Another stop—we take a closer look and realize it’s very rusty and has already been repaired. The weld is barely holding. If we keep using the wipers, we risk losing one... So we stop in a village and remove the wiper. Two men spontaneously come over. We explain the situation, and they take my husband and son across the road to someone who can weld. We agree on the repair price beforehand. The repair is done, we reinstall the wiper, and test it. The weld doesn’t hold... Back to the "welder," who this time goes all out. The weld holds for the rest of the trip 😛



Good thing we fixed it right away... we’ll face a few thunderstorms in the afternoon. We take the track to Lake Mburo. The first part goes smoothly, but the track gets deeply rutted in the second half. Luckily, it’s no longer raining, and the track is relatively dry. We see kob antelopes, zebras, and Ankole cattle with their impressive horns.





We arrive around 4:30 PM at Rwakobo Rock, where we’re staying tonight. We enjoy the pool and the extraordinary view of the park and surroundings. The sky is overcast, and a storm rumbles in the distance.

I’ll try to do a day-by-day account if it interests anyone.

Yes, yes, we’re interested!!!

February 3 We woke up to warm, sunny weather. Before breakfast, we decided to hike up to the « Top of the Rock », a rocky promontory on the property. Apparently, there’s a stunning 180° view, and we were eager to enjoy it. But we hadn’t counted on the baboons… who also wanted to take advantage of it. Our attempt was short-lived. We backed down 🤪





We tried again after breakfast and this time, we were greeted by vervet monkeys. They were much more willing to let us enjoy the view, which was indeed beautiful.





During trip planning, we hadn’t scheduled any activities for that morning, thinking we’d decide on the spot whether to do a safari in Lake Mburo National Park. In the end, we decided against it. First, because we didn’t have much time to spend in the park (max 2 hours—you could say we’d have had more if we’d gotten up earlier 😛), and it would’ve cost us $160 for 4 people plus the car. Second, because we’d already done several safaris in South Africa, and that wasn’t the focus of this Uganda trip.

We left the lodge around 10:45 AM and got back on the track, where we spotted our first Ugandan impalas (stockier than the South African ones).





We rejoined the main road and headed toward Mbarara, which we didn’t drive through. Instead, we took the Mbarara bypass. There was still a lot of activity along the road—boda-bodas and speed bumps by the dozen (we’d hit so many during our trip 😅).







We gained altitude, and the weather cooled down. The landscapes became even more beautiful, with the first hills, terraced fields, banana trees, and pineapple plantations.







We arrived in Kabale, and wow—it was bustling: crowds, bikes, boda-bodas, life everywhere. The Africa we’d imagined. We were so focused on the traffic that we forgot to take photos 😅.



We continued on our way when suddenly, a policeman lying in the grass (hiding 😛) jumped up, ran toward us, and stopped us. He greeted us politely, asked where we were from, and then told us we’d been speeding (58 km/h instead of 50). He explained that, in principle, he should send us back to the village we’d just passed to pay the fine, but that would be complicated since we didn’t live in Uganda. He said, "What are we going to do?"—hinting that it’d be nice if we gave him a bill to avoid further formalities. He pretended to write us a ticket (to keep up appearances for his colleagues, he said 😇), and we slipped him a bill. We’d been expecting it. The car rental guy had warned us this might happen if we got pulled over, but that we should always wait for the officer to make the first move.

Shortly after, we took the track leading to Lake Bunyonyi. The first part was beautiful and pleasant, but it was also where we saw adults—and children—digging into rocky cliffs to extract stones, breaking them into small pebbles by hand. It was shocking and heartbreaking.





The views of the lake were stunning, but the track got increasingly difficult (especially for us, since we’re not 4x4 experts—Belgium *is* called the flat country for a reason 😛). In some spots, it was very muddy, and we passed through a few small villages. Then the storm rolled in, soaking everything in no time. Driving became more and more challenging, with limited visibility, deep muddy ruts, and dips we hoped weren’t too deep. We slid a few times. We just hoped we wouldn’t have to get out and walk 😉 A little stress in the car, and as usual when we’re hyper-focused, no photos.

We finally arrived—around 4:15 PM—at Lake Bunyonyi Rock Resort, but in pouring rain. We couldn’t get out of the car without getting soaked, since the parking lot wasn’t right next to the lodge. We waited 15–20 minutes before stepping out.

Small note: This lodge is one of the farthest from the start of the track. I hadn’t realized that when I booked. There are other hotels by the lake that are much closer and easier to access when the weather’s bad.

Luckily, the view from the restaurant and rooms was gorgeous. The rain let up, and though it was chilly, we enjoyed the calm and beauty of the place from our balcony.







After dinner, we headed to our rooms with a hot water bottle… and one question: What would the track be like tomorrow?

Good evening, Lovely photos and a great travel journal.

But the whole thing with the police officer and the bribe—I really don’t get it. I also don’t understand the agency’s advice. If you didn’t speed, you’ve got nothing to pay, end of story. If you did speed and need to pay in the previous village, you get a fine and pay what’s due there. Why play along with corruption?

But the cop-and-bribe thing—I really don’t get it. I also don’t get the agency’s advice. If you didn’t speed, you’ve got nothing to pay, end of story. If you did speed and you’re supposed to pay in the previous village, you get a fine and pay what you owe there. What’s the point of playing the corruption game?

Like you, I think we shouldn’t play the corruption game. Unfortunately, tourists don’t always think about the consequences.

Hi there,

I’ll be following your travel journal with pleasure, even if I don’t quite see eye to eye with you on that fine and the corruption that comes with it.

Carmen

Yes, and in this specific case, I think the agency is largely responsible for giving the impression that this was the right approach. You can't then blame visitors for doing exactly what they were advised to do, since they don't know the country. As the advisors and experts, the agency should have explained how to handle this kind of situation. And in my opinion, baksheesh is certainly not the right way to go.

Hi Rotsaka and Ticapi,

First of all, thanks for taking the time to read my travel journal.

About the fine and the bribe, what can I say... we definitely made the rookie mistake in this country. And since the rental agency told us it was common, we went along with it. I can’t turn back time, but hopefully this will help future travelers.

Hope you’ll stick around for the rest of the trip 😉 Have a great day

Hi, Of course we’ll keep reading the travel journal. It’s really well written, the photos are beautiful, and there’s a lot of detail. And after that, the point is to share it on the forum and compare perspectives—to learn from each other.

Regarding the fine and the bribe, what can I say... we definitely made the beginner’s mistake in this country. And since the rental agency told us it was usual, we did it. I can’t go back in time, but hopefully this will help future travelers.

We all make mistakes—the important thing is to talk about them and own up to them.😉

Hope you’ll stick around for the rest of the trip 😉 Have a great day

Of course, I’ll stick around.🙂 Have a great day too.

Carmen

February 4 First instinct upon waking: open the curtains. The sun is out!

At 9:30 AM, we set off by boat to explore the lake and its various islands.



We’re accompanied by a guide who tells us the history of some islands, including the infamous "Punishment Island," and shares details about the local wildlife and flora.







It’s fascinating, the weather is perfect, and the landscapes are stunning. We’re soaking it all in.









Around noon, we return to the lodge for lunch. The weather had clouded over toward the end of the excursion, and now rain is threatening. We don’t linger—no desire to retrace our steps on that track in a storm. The track has dried since the day before, but some sections are still very muddy. Another challenge, and a 4x4 is essential. The rain starts, but luckily, we’re near the end of the track. We enjoy the last views of the lake.



We reach the main road and head toward Kisoro. The road is smooth, with far fewer cars and trucks, but just as many people and animals 😊.



We’re gaining altitude, and we see our first tea plantations—far fewer banana trees. The landscapes shift again, with rolling hills everywhere. It’s breathtaking.



We arrive in Kisoro around 4:15 PM. Today, we’re settling in at the Travellers Rest Hotel, one of Uganda’s oldest hotels. Retro charm and a serene atmosphere in the beautiful garden. As we’ve done since the start of the trip, we take the late afternoon to relax and unwind.



While exploring the garden, near the staff quarters at the back, we hear a huge commotion. We approach the trees, expecting a flock of birds, but no—it’s bats. An incredible sight.





Dinner at the hotel, and the kids head to bed early. Tomorrow, they’re tackling Mount Sabinyo in Mount Mgahinga National Park.

Hi there! Count me in for a self-drive trip in Uganda—I’d love to join, especially in these tough times... a little dreaming goes a long way!

Hello

Need some encouragement for what's next? These are tough times for travelers (among others), so it’d be much appreciated... 😉 Muriel

Thanks for the encouragement! I haven’t forgotten the rest ;) I’ll get back to it tonight or tomorrow. In the meantime, I’ve added a couple of photos to the previous posts.

Have a great evening

5 February Woke up at dawn for the two youngsters in the group. Departure was scheduled for 7:00 sharp in front of the hotel. The driver who was supposed to pick them up wasn’t there. The hotel receptionist tried desperately to contact him but with no luck. Our son came to wake us up, and we jumped out of bed to drive them ourselves—the meet-up at the trek’s starting point was at 7:45. There’s only 14 km between the hotel and the park, but we’d read that it takes between 45 minutes and an hour to get there. By the time we threw on our clothes, the driver finally showed up at 7:15. I don’t know how he managed the drive, but they made it to the starting point right on time! 😅

Meanwhile, us "oldies" (especially the non-sporty ones) took the morning to stroll around Kisoro and do some shopping. It was really nice to explore the town on foot instead of by car and soak up the local vibe. Back at the hotel for lunch. The weather was dry but overcast.

At noon, I got a message from my daughter-in-law saying she’d reached the last of the three peaks they had to climb. My son made it 30 minutes later. The descent should take them 3 or 4 hours.

Around 1:15 PM, we set off for Mount Mgahinga National Park. It took us 45 minutes to get there via a dry but *very* bumpy road. We passed through a few villages, always bustling with people and animals. The final climb to the park entrance was pretty steep.





For those who don’t know, this park sits at the border of three countries—Uganda, Rwanda, and the Congo—and you can track gorillas *and* golden monkeys here.



Since we had some time before the young athletes returned from their trek, we decided to take a short walk, but it had to be with a ranger—there are buffalo in the park, so solo walks are off-limits. As it turned out, our ranger was super friendly. We followed her up a narrow trail, scrambling a bit, until we reached the "platform view," which wasn’t a platform at all but a clearing with a view of the Congo in the distance.



We sat on some logs to take in the view and chatted with our guide. We were just relaxing when suddenly we heard noise behind us—getting louder. The guide said it might be a buffalo. We looked back but saw nothing, though the trees were shaking. Then she changed her mind: "Not buffalo—gorillas!" You can imagine our excitement. But she explained we couldn’t stay because we hadn’t paid for gorilla tracking. If the trackers following the gorillas saw us with her, she could lose her job. So, we left—reluctantly—but not before catching a quick glimpse of two gorillas. It was brief but intense. We really weren’t expecting that!

We headed back to the starting point and waited patiently in the car for about an hour for the athletes to return. They arrived around 4:30 PM, exhausted but happy after conquering Mount Sabinyo (3,600 m). The last peak sits right at the border of the three countries. Our son said he’d never done anything so tough—they’re athletic but not used to high-altitude climbing. Some in their group had given up after the first or second peak. We were so proud they made it all the way!

After the congratulations 😊, we took the bumpy road back toward Lake Mutanda. We reached Kisoro and took a track leading to the Mutanda Eco Community Center, where we were supposed to stay that night. The view of the lake was stunning, but the wooden cabins were *very* basic. The path to the rooms was steep, rocky, and slippery, and there wasn’t really a proper shower—after a trek, all you want is a good shower. So, we decided not to stay there. P.S.: My husband had spotted this place on Google Earth, and it *is* beautifully located. Before we left, I’d seen a few photos and had doubts about staying there—especially that night—but my husband really wanted to stay by the lake. The other hotel further along the shore was too expensive.



We headed back to Kisoro.



The Travellers’ Rest Hotel was fully booked, so we settled for the Kisoro Tourist Hotel. I’ll admit, it wasn’t great—the rooms were a bit run-down—but they were clean, and there was a shower ;). Plus, it was right in the center of Kisoro, which let us discover the Pot Coffee Café just across the street. We had dinner there, and it’s definitely worth recommending!

Back at the hotel in the rain. Well, we *had* to have at least one rainy day, right? :P

6 February This morning, the weather is still overcast but a bit warmer. The four of us take a little stroll around town and buy takeaway sandwiches from the Coffee Pot Café for our lunch.

We leave Kisoro around 10:45 AM, heading toward Bwindi Forest. The road is pleasant, with no major difficulties. We follow Lake Mulehe.



We pass through a few small villages. There’s always something to see along the way: colorful clothes 🙂, brick kilns we’ve seen in almost every village during our trip; endless shades of green; tea plantations...









The landscapes are stunning again. We’re mesmerized by this lush nature.









We get a little rain now and then but also some lovely sunny spells.



After a 2-hour drive—such a nice short leg today 😊—we arrive in the rain at Ichumbi Gorilla Lodge in Rushaga. We’d booked the family cottage (two adjoining rooms with connecting terraces), but one of the rooms was already occupied. So, we’re given separate rooms, quite far apart (not an issue for us since our “kids” are adults). The rooms are spacious, nicely decorated with a lovely terrace, but contrary to what we thought, the view of Bwindi Forest isn’t clear.



However, the view from the restaurant terrace, which is higher up, offers more openness. We eat our sandwiches there and enjoy a relaxing afternoon.

Around 3/4 PM, a few German travelers return from their gorilla trek. They tell us they’re part of a group of 19 people, split into three smaller groups for the trek. They’re the first to return to the hotel. We chat with them about their experience—apparently really nice and not too difficult (they were in the medium-difficulty group). They show us some photos, which reassures us for tomorrow. The second group returns around 6 PM, exhausted... they were the “easy” group. Oops... We talk to a woman who tells us about her adventures today: endless ups and downs, mud... We’re suddenly a lot less reassured. The last group arrives at 7 PM. The stress level rises another notch, especially for my husband and me 😊. We trained before the trip but aren’t very sporty and have some aches in our backs and knees. Plus, during their trek on Mount Sabinyo, my son and daughter-in-law met a group of Belgians who’d done the trek two days earlier, also in Rushaga, and it took them 9 hours.

Will we manage to sleep well tonight and be in shape for tomorrow?

Will we manage to sleep well tonight and be in shape for tomorrow?

Adrenaline keeps us going, right? 😉 I’m so excited to hear which gorilla group you got (we saw the Bweza group; they told us it was "medium" but it only took us 4 hours) and how it went... Muriel

Hi there,

It's funny—even though it's not at all on the usual route, you're the second people in a row who've been to Mgahinga NP and Rushaga in Bwindi 😉

And I have to say, Mgahinga is really tempting me. 😛

By the way, what do the young folks say about their trek—is it really beautiful, regardless of the difficulty?

Thanks again for sharing your amazing trip! 🙂

I'm working on the next part. It'll be up tonight or tomorrow. The wait shouldn't be too long ;)

Anyway, thanks for following our trip.

A self-drive trip in Uganda—I’m in, I’ve been dreaming of this destination!

Your photos and story really make me want to go!

Hello,

It's funny—even though it's not at all on the usual route, you're the second group in a row to have gone to Mgahinga NP and Rushaga in Bwindi 😉

We also did the loop in the opposite direction from what most people do 😛

And I must say, Mgahinga is really tempting me. 😛 By the way, do people say the trek for the young ones is very beautiful, regardless of the difficulty?

To those who went 😉 : it was really beautiful. They crossed bamboo forests, vine forests, and lots of lichen on the trees. Unfortunately, regarding the views, they had fog all day.









As for the difficulties: it was sometimes very technical, with lots of ladders and passages through very narrow spots with drops on both sides. My son struggled more with the altitude (shortness of breath) than the technical parts. My daughter-in-law had no issues with that but found the descents with ladders and stairs more challenging.





Thanks again for sharing your beautiful trip with us 🙂

My pleasure! And thanks to you too—I also used your travel journal to plan our trip 😉

Welcome aboard!

So happy my travel journal is making you even more excited to go. This country and its people are amazing.

Thanks so much for sharing this and for the beautiful photos! It brings back such great memories and is such a delight in these confined times! Can't wait to see the gorillas' faces!

It's magnificent

Gorgeous, yes... but it doesn’t look easy 😵 Muriel

Thanks for joining us! The gorillas are coming 😉

That does sound a bit complicated 😏

Reminds me of Kilimanjaro, minus the hiking

February 7 Well, no, the night wasn’t great. But that didn’t stop the team from being ready bright and early 😄 Today is THE BIG day! The weather is dry (yay!) and at this early hour, there’s a bit of mist.

We left the lodge around 7:15 AM. The drive to the park entrance was super short (5 minutes), and we were among the first to arrive. We took the chance to chat with a UWA guide, then settled into the briefing “room.” When the time came, I handed over our permits to the UWA officer in charge of registrations. We were the only tourists there without a driver 😅 There were about fifty people. Before the briefing, we watched traditional dances performed by the local community.



After the instructions and recommendations, the long-awaited moment finally arrived: group assignments. We’d be visiting the Mishaya family and would be with two American couples (around our age) who didn’t know each other. Our guide would be the same one we’d spoken to upon arrival. We hired four porters—first to help us during the trek, but also because we thought it was a good way to support the local community (the Batwa).

We set off on foot at 8:45 AM from the meeting point. I specify “on foot” because some groups left by car to reach starting points farther from the main entrance. We’d be hiking (mostly uphill) for 2 hours on a trail that was muddy in spots but didn’t have any major difficulties. The pace worked well for us and the Americans (we were relieved—they weren’t any fitter than we were 😄). Still, we had to take breaks now and then so the “six not-so-young” in the group could catch their breath, but overall, my husband and I thought we were managing pretty well. Our two kids, of course, had no issues.





We finally reached the summit, where we met the trackers. We left our porters behind and followed our guide, pushing through the vegetation. We went down a bit, and… there they were—the long-awaited gorillas. The Mishaya family consists of one silverback, five females, one teenager, and four little ones. We first saw two babies—gorgeous and so funny—then the silverback. Unfortunately, they moved pretty quickly. We followed as best we could. The silverback settled at the base of a tree, head to the side, but in a dark, cluttered spot, surrounded by a swarm of flies (not great for photos). He stayed there for about 10 minutes, joined by the teenager and a little one, but they didn’t stick around long, of course 😄 We observed, enjoyed, and asked the guide questions.





They started moving again, and we followed them for quite a while through very dense vegetation on steep terrain. We couldn’t see where we were stepping, clung to whatever we could, and formed a chain to help each other… it was quite the adventure. We caught glimpses of the females in the distance. We managed a few zoomed-in photos, and then it was already time to say goodbye. I’ll admit, we were a little frustrated at that moment—the hour had flown by (we’d been moving almost the whole time to keep up), and we hadn’t gotten to see them in an open area. But we were well aware of how privileged we were just to be there.







The photos below aren’t here for their quality 😛 but to show you the environment where we saw the gorillas.







Then came the return trip. We continued descending the slope without a path and were joined a little lower down by our porters and the trackers, to whom we said goodbye. We were back on a trail. I thought, “Great, we’ve done the hardest part.” I celebrated too soon. It wasn’t that there were insurmountable obstacles or that we had to climb, but the trail was *very* muddy, super slippery—we walked through little streams, and I realized my shoes were just not cutting it. It was like walking on ice. So yes, I took a few tumbles, but no harm done, and it was all laughs 😛 Mud is good for the skin, right? Thankfully—*a hundred times thankfully*—our porters were there, and they kept me from spending the whole descent sitting down 🤪. They also helped my husband a lot. Moral of the story: choose your hiking shoes wisely.

After an hour and a half of descent, we took a 30-minute lunch break. We shared our picnic with the porters and the guide. We had 30 minutes of walking left to the parking lot. It was easy and on dry ground. We reached the starting point around 2:40 PM. We were really lucky with the weather—dry and warm the whole time. We took some group photos and paid our porters. We wouldn’t get the traditional diploma ceremony… they’d run out.



During the day, we had plenty of time to chat with our porters, and my husband learned that three of them came from the same village, 5 km away. Of course, they’d walked there that morning and would have to walk back (adding 10 km to what we’d already done that day—and *they* had our backpacks to carry!). My husband offered to drive them home. He first dropped off my stepdaughter and me at the lodge, then went with our son to pick them up and take them to their village. They couldn’t believe it. It was the first time as porters that *muzungu* had ever made that offer. It was market day in the village, and they warmly invited my husband and son to join them. A really enriching experience.

A quick aside about the porters in Rushaga: there are 120 of them sharing the work, and they’re only allowed to do it once a month—or twice if there’s high demand from tourists. That way, everyone gets a chance to work. If it’s their day and they show up but aren’t “hired,” they can come back the next day. For those of you who might visit Bwindi one day, keep this in mind and don’t hesitate to hire porters. First, because it’ll help you during the trek, and second, because you’ll be giving these people work. The minimum price is 15 $ per porter, but feel free to give more.

This was a wonderful day: our first rain-free day, the long-awaited encounter with the mountain gorillas, and the exchanges with our porters. Tonight, I’m sure, I’ll sleep well ;)

One last tip for the gorillas: looking back on our experience, if we were to do it again, we’d do the tracking in Mgahinga National Park. First, because there are far fewer people, and it’s not uncommon to find yourself alone with the guide. Then, because the terrain is much more open and visibility is better. The approach hike does start at a higher altitude (2,400 m), but according to the guide we met on-site, it often only takes about an hour. Plus, there are now two habituated gorilla families. One group recently arrived from Rwanda.

Of course, this is just my opinion, and I’m well aware that you can also get lucky and see the gorillas really well in Bwindi 😉

It's just so beautiful watching these animals—absolute dream come true! :)

Thanks for the photos, it’s still just as magical 😊. I also regret (just a tiny bit, since it’s still great to see them) not having gone to Mgahinga, which does seem much clearer in terms of vegetation. We got the diplomas... but not the dances 😄. And there were far fewer of us (12 in 2 groups), but it’s good that there are people for the porters’ work and all... Muriel

The trek was absolutely magnificent—it reminded me of the high-altitude landscapes of the Rwenzoris, except you get to see them in a single day instead of the 3 or 4 it takes in the Rwenzoris.

From what I remember, Ruhija is where you can most "easily" approach the gorillas (we’d hiked for about 1 or 1.5 hours, if I recall correctly).

Your travel journal makes me want to go back to that region—it could be centered around Mgahinga / Virunga.

Thanks a bunch! 😎

You’re bringing back such great memories. We were lucky enough to do two gorilla treks—one in Uganda and the other in Rwanda. That was back in 2017, with the "old" prices. In Rwanda, the vegetation is also less dense.

I totally agree with you—it’s absolutely worth having one porter per person. We could’ve managed without, but for the local community, it’s a vital source of income.

Carmen

Thanks for your comments. It’s really great to have people on board the Landcruiser! 😛 I’ll try to post the next day’s update tonight.

Have a lovely evening, everyone!

8 February As planned, all four of us slept well. The weather is misty, and the view from the restaurant terrace is stunning. It really feels like "Gorillas in the Mist" 😄



Today is a travel day: we need to go from Rushaga to the southern part of Queen Elizabeth National Park. This is the only part of our Uganda trip that my husband couldn’t quite visualize before we left (he couldn’t figure out if it was possible to reach Ruhija by staying along the Bwindi Forest the whole way). Luckily, Maurice, one of the lodge employees, is here 😊 He’s from the QENP area and shows us which road to take to get to Ruhija. For those who might be interested: it’s not possible to go from Rushaga to Ruhija by staying *only* along the Bwindi Forest.

We leave the lodge around 8:20 AM, heading toward Muko. After a few minutes, we have to cross a ford. There’s a motorcycle in front of us. It makes it through. Okay, we should be fine too :P We roll up the windows and go for it.



The track we’re following is pretty rough—you have to stay super alert (it’s not recommended in the rain; in that case, you’d have to take the detour via Kisoro). But as usual, the landscapes are gorgeous.





We join the main road from Kisoro to Kabale. After about 18 km, we turn left onto the track leading to Ruhija (it’s well signposted). This time, the track is in good condition—really nice and partly through the Bwindi Forest. There’s a gate at the forest entrance where you have to register. FYI, it took us 3 hours to get from Rushaga to Ruhija.



The Bwindi Forest. Hard to believe we trekked through there yesterday ;)



Coffee, tea, or banana... we’ve got options ;)

After Ruhija, the track stays great until the turnoff toward Buhoma and Kihihi.







We head toward Kihihi, and suddenly the track changes completely: corrugated, full of potholes. We get caught in a heavy downpour, but luckily it doesn’t last 😄 At the end of this track, we turn left. Another type of road: very wide, gray, and super dusty, under construction, with countless speed bumps and rocks. Not very pleasant. We finally reach Kihihi, where the main road is also under construction (small detour via the parallel track). We drive through town toward QENP. There are no signs, but it’s easy—just keep going straight ;)

We arrive at Topi Lodge around 2:30 PM. We took our time and made plenty of photo stops. This lodge is just a few minutes from the southern entrance of the park (Ishasha sector). It’s really beautiful. Each cottage is decorated with local crafts and fabrics, they’re well spaced out, with views of QENP on one side and the plains below on the other. It’s so peaceful, and there are *tons* of birds you can watch from the cottage terrace. We’re the only ones staying here tonight 😊 It’s one of the highlights of our trip.







We eat our picnic on the restaurant terrace, then enjoy the terrace of our cottage. The weather is really warm (we’ve gained a few degrees), sunny but gets stormy in the late afternoon.

Before dinner, we go for a drive. We see monkeys, kob, impalas, warthogs, and a gorgeous sunset.







Here we are in the savanna.

Back at the lodge for dinner by candlelight. It’s magical.





And we’re falling more and more in love with this country :)

And we're more and more won over by this country 🙂

I wonder if anyone comes back disappointed 😉. Thanks again for letting us relive this trip. Muriel

I wonder if anyone comes back disappointed 😉.

If that’s the case, I’d have a hard time understanding 😉

Thanks again for letting us relive this trip.

It also lets me relive our trip. And thanks again for reading so faithfully 🙂

February 9 Gorgeous sunrise over the plain, with birdsong in the background.





When I try to wash up, no water! Same issue in the other cottage. Turns out it’s a general water outage because a pipe was damaged during roadwork on the main Kihihi road. The lodge staff helps us out by bringing a large jerrycan of water. We have breakfast on the restaurant terrace and enjoy the stunning view of the plain again.

We leave at 9:20 AM, under the sun, heading to the southern entrance of QENP.



The entry formalities are slow. Even though we’re the only ones there—no other cars in sight—the ranger writes the wrong date on the permit. I notice and point it out. He doubts me, says no, but finally checks a calendar and scribbles the correct date over the other one.

Now we’re in the park.



Between the lodge and the park entrance, we passed a car with a guide and a tourist. We asked if they’d seen any tree-climbing lions. The guide’s answer was clear: no, and no one had seen a lion in the area for three weeks. Big disappointment in the car. And I can confirm we didn’t see any either—not us, nor the other cars we stopped to ask along the way. We drive through the Ishasha sector, looking left and right, but very few animals in sight. A few impalas and topis. Some birds.







The track is relatively narrow and tricky in places. We have to use 4x4 for a tough water crossing.

We stop at Ishasha River Camp, by the river that marks the border with Congo. No tourists—just soldiers and rangers. We ask if we can see the river. They say yes, but we must be escorted by rangers. We cross the soldiers’ camp and reach the riverbank, where people can pitch tents if they want to camp in the area. FYI, there are no facilities, and soldiers must stay near campers (because of the proximity to Congo and hippos).



We walk near the river, where hippos are plentiful, and we’re lucky to see our first white-tailed colobus monkeys.





Back to the car, and we head back onto the track. The southern sector is small, and for us, it’s only worth it if the tree-climbing lions are there. But obviously, you don’t know unless you go 😛 And others have been luckier than us—some saw a leopard here.

We leave the Ishasha sector and hit the track leading from Congo to Kasese. This track is brutal. Nothing but potholes and ruts, almost no animals, and it goes on forever. We see a Congolese truck in a tough spot.





We make a quick detour to see the fishing village of Kisenyi, by Lake Edward. All the boats were back on the sand. Beautiful.



We arrive at Queen Elizabeth Bush Lodge around 2:45 PM. It’s scorching hot. We’ll stay in two bandas with a view of the Kazinga Channel. Bonus: there’s an outdoor shower! 😄 The staff member who welcomes us insists that once it’s dark, we must *not* walk around the camp without an escort. Hippos like to wander here too!





Around 4 PM, we decide to take a quick drive in the park, in the Kasenyi sector. We arrive at the gate. A few cars are there, and again, we’re the only ones without a driver. I show our permit to the ranger, who tells me to wait, goes into the office, then asks me to join him. There’s a problem with our permit. The "boss" says they suspect we tampered with it and changed the date. I explain that’s not true, that we entered the park this morning, and it was a mistake by the guy at the Ishasha gate. She replies that when an employee makes a mistake, they must sign next to the correction, and that’s not the case on our permit. I ask if she can call Ishasha to check. She agrees, and luckily, the guy from this morning is still there and confirms his mistake. She signs next to the correction. **Lesson learned:** always double-check what’s written on the permit and make sure they sign if there’s a mistake.

After this forced stop, we enter the park. At first, we’re lucky. We see an elephant up close, then impalas, kob, buffalo, warthogs—all under gorgeous light.







But it’s really hard to navigate the park, even with the map we bought on-site. There are no signs, not a single marker in sight (unlike Kruger 😉). We end up following other cars, hoping their drivers know where they’re going 😄 We see few animals and reach a viewpoint by Lake George. For those who know it, it’s a bit like Sunset Dam in Kruger. People gather here for sunset, there are tons of hippos, but unlike Kruger, here, everyone gets out of their cars!



My husband asks a driver if we can follow him when he leaves. He agrees. Thanks to him, we find the park exit in time 😛 We get back to the lodge exhausted and dusty after a day on the tracks.

Good news of the day: not a drop of rain!

Hello,

Thank you for this wonderful travel journal that lets us relive such amazing moments too! We were in Uganda last summer, and this trip is one of our absolute favorites.

It’s really uplifting in these times… Thanks again, and can’t wait for the next part! 🙂😉

Thanks so much, Delphine, for your kind comment.

And it’s true—this country is absolutely stunning. It was a real favorite for us too 🙂

More to come 😉 Happy reading !

February 10 The night was lively: hyena calls in the distance, hippo noises down below, and a hippo visiting right in front of our banda. The previous day’s recommendations suddenly made perfect sense



We got up around 5:30 AM, had breakfast, and then headed to the park entrance. We returned to the Kasenyi area. I’d read before our trip that you could show up at the gate and ask for a guide/ranger to accompany you in the car. Given our experience the day before, we thought that would be a good idea. Unfortunately, none were available. The guards told us we should’ve booked the day before 😕 Oh well. That wouldn’t stop us from entering the park. Off we went, the four of us. My husband and son took the driver and co-pilot seats—they did great 😊 We enjoyed the sunrise, the early morning light was beautiful, the landscapes were stunning, and it was sunny.





We chose a different route than the day before and explored the southern part of the Kasenyi plains. We were practically alone. We saw buffaloes, impalas, hippos, kob antelopes, warthogs, and a first for us—bush pigs. And, of course, birds everywhere.











We left the park (without getting lost 😛) before 9:50 AM, the time our permit expired. Even though we didn’t see any lions or leopards, we really enjoyed "wandering" through this part of the park—very wild in places (we could barely see the tracks we were supposed to drive on).



We rejoined the road, crossed it, and took the track toward the main park entrance (Kabatoro). We stopped at the viewpoint overlooking the Nyamanyuka crater lake. There were a few buffaloes. We continued a little further along the track and admired the different views. Then we turned around and headed back to the lodge.



We had lunch on-site and enjoyed a relaxing early afternoon before our cruise on the Kazinga Channel. At 4 PM, a boat from the local community picked us up below the lodge (no need to go to Mweya, where the UWA-organized excursions depart). We went for a 2-hour ride with just 7 tourists on the boat. The weather was perfect.



It was really beautiful and peaceful.



We saw hippos by the dozen, just one crocodile 😅, buffaloes in the water, a monitor lizard, fish eagles, dozens of kingfishers, and, of course, many other birds.









We were also lucky enough to see elephants and witness an incredible scene between a hippo and four elephants who really didn’t appreciate its arrival near them 😉







We had a great guide who gave us lots of information about the wildlife, flora, and local population. It was really interesting. All four of us loved this cruise.



We returned to the starting point around 6 PM. While waiting for dinner, we sat on a bench overlooking the channel, each with a Nile beer in hand. And we savored it 😎

I love the look of the bushpig (never seen one in real life)! 😏 It's so cool this cruise on a small boat. I didn't know it was possible.... Muriel

Love the bushpig’s face (never seen one in real life)! 😏

It was a first for us too 😉

That little boat cruise looks fun—I had no idea it was possible....

The lodge told us about it. We could choose between the UWA cruise or the one with the local community boat.

February 11 The night was calmer than the previous one. We still heard hippos in the distance but they didn’t pay us another visit. Last breakfast with a view of the Kazinga Channel and in great company 😊





Today, we’re heading toward Fort Portal and Kibale Forest. We left the lodge around 9:20 AM. We stayed on the main road that crosses QENP, without venturing onto the perpendicular tracks. To wrap up the safari part of our trip, we still saw a few impalas, kob, buffalo, elephants, warthogs… It’s really surprising for us—used to Kruger Park where everything is fenced off—to see a national road, also used by cyclists, motorbikes, and pedestrians, running through a park with wild animals 😮 We crossed the Equator line again.



The road to Kasese is in great condition, paved. It’s partly lined with cotton fields.



In Kasese, we’re back to the hustle and bustle of Ugandan towns: boda-bodas everywhere, shops, people… but also factories. As we leave the city, the road conditions change completely. It’s under construction, very dusty. And it stays like that all the way to Fort Portal. On this stretch, I think we’ve seen every possible road condition 🤪, and we even spotted a truck lying on its side. We assume that once the work is done, the road will be much more pleasant to drive 😉

Here, it was okay 😛



The road between QENP and Fort Portal seemed less "interesting" and a bit more monotonous than the routes we’d taken before.

In Fort Portal, we’re back on tarmac until the turnoff for the lodge where we’ll be staying for the next three nights. We take a track that climbs, with a few deep ruts, but as (almost 😊) always, it’s really beautiful.



We pass through a village, then turn toward Isunga Lodge on a very narrow track running through farmland. We’ve arrived. It’s 1 PM. It’s hot but misty. It’s stunning, with views from the restaurant terraces over Kibale Forest and the Rwenzori Mountains.



A garden full of flowers and birds. And a little bonus—though it’s not the main reason for a trip to Uganda—there’s a pool 😉





We booked the family cottage (a cottage with two bedrooms, set apart from the others—which I didn’t know when I booked—and with a view of the Rwenzori Mountains in the distance).



This lodge is one of our favorites. But keep in mind that the restaurant is much lower than the parking lot, and the accommodations are even lower (except for our cottage, which is a bit higher than the restaurant 😊), with very steep access (best not to forget anything in the car 😛). So it’s not recommended for people with mobility issues.

We ate our picnic on the restaurant terrace and spent the afternoon reading, swimming, and catching up with the rest of the world… Sunset drinks and dinner under the stars. Basically, a real holiday vibe 😎

Isunga Lodge was a real favorite for us too... even though there wasn’t a pool yet 😮. Muriel

Isunga Lodge was a real favorite for us too

I’m keeping it in mind for a future trip—sniff—had spotted it but didn’t book, opting for camping instead 🤪

We also fell in love with Isunga Lodge... even though there wasn’t a pool yet 😮. Muriel

Next time, maybe! 😉

I was wondering where on earth it could be... but it's a tiny pool 😏. Muriel

February 12 Today is the second "big day" of our trip. We're going to meet the chimpanzees. And the sun is out 😎

We leave the lodge around 7:15 AM and arrive half an hour later at Kanyanchu (the visitor information center and starting point for chimpanzee tracking in Kibale Forest).



We sign in (we’re once again the only ones without a driver 😉), attend the briefing, and then our group is assigned. There will be six of us—our family of four plus an Italian couple—and our guide will be Edisson. We need to reach a starting point deeper in the forest. The Italians leave with their driver, while we take our car and bring the guide along. We drive for about 5–10 minutes.

We start the approach hike around 8:45 AM. At first, we follow a small path through the forest, then we cut through the woods. The walk is much easier and faster than the one for the gorillas. We meet the trackers in 25 minutes. There’s already another group of tourists there.

The chimpanzees are right on time, high up in the trees. We can hear them and spot them from a distance.



The other groups join us. There must be about thirty of us. We settle in as best we can on the slope to find the best viewpoint. We get our cameras ready and zoom in.





We watch the chimpanzees eat, groom each other, pee on us ("it’s raining," as our guide would say) 🤪, swing from branch to branch... for about an hour.







Then we realize our hour with them is almost up. We’re obviously happy to have seen them, but still a little disappointed we didn’t get to interact more closely. At the start of the observation, Edisson had told us to be patient... And sure enough.

The chimpanzees begin to descend from the treetops and come down to the ground one by one. That’s when the real tracking begins 😉 We start moving, following our guide, who anticipates the chimpanzees’ movements. First, we follow a female who suddenly stops, lies down, and takes a little nap with about ten tourists snapping photos, seemingly unbothered.



We move through the forest following the chimpanzees’ movements.







We stop, observe, ask the guide questions, get passed by them... They brush past us sometimes, stop, "strike a pose."

Not for the photo quality but to show the distance between them and us







At the end of the day, who’s observing whom?



It’s an incredible experience. We follow them like this for an hour. Unfortunately, the time comes to say goodbye.



The return walk is very quick—10 minutes to get back to the car 😛 We take Edisson back to the information center, and he gives each of us our certificate. This time, no stock shortage 😉

All four of us are amazed. This experience was fabulous and, for us, even more rewarding than the one with the gorillas. We return to the lodge with stars in our eyes.