Review of a Costa Smeralda cruise from March 1 to 8, 2020

Hello, Here’s my review of a pleasant cruise on the Costa Smeralda with a very classic itinerary on a ship that’s anything but! I’ll share my observations and thoughts with minimal commentary to avoid "judgment," so it’ll be factual—something everyone can "adapt" to their own tastes.

A special thought goes out to those currently on board who won’t be able to disembark at the Italian ports, as well as to all those disappointed by cruises canceled up to April 3, some of whom had already faced a cancellation at the end of last year due to the ship’s delivery delay of over 2 months. I also had to deal with a postponement and had to fight with Costa, eventually getting a round-trip ticket to keep the exceptional conditions I’d managed to secure!!!

To make this easier to read, I’ll split it into two parts: text and photos. First up: What we enjoyed:

The LNG-powered engines, which are more eco-friendly. The availability of antibacterial gel in front of elevators on every deck, as well as in various spots around the ship, plus numerous handwashing stations at the entrance of all restaurants, with staff gently reminding forgetful guests. The staff’s consistently great kindness and helpfulness. No mall-like atmosphere, thanks to the smart layout and quality of the shops and bars. The quality of the meals and the speed of service. The well-organized reception area with ticketing and a comfortable waiting lounge. The outdoor decks were very pleasant, even though it wasn’t very warm. Smooth embarkation (including in Marseille) and disembarkation. Numerous bars and spots with or without music, both indoors and outdoors. The many automatic door systems that open just by waving your hand. Our extended cabin (I’d chosen it), which made up for the narrower width. There are indeed fewer shelves and drawers, but the closet is large. By bringing (as always) plenty of dry-cleaning-style hangers and storing life jackets under the beds, we had more than enough space for two. Finally, a sliding door to access the balcony! An electrical outlet under the bedside table and USB ports on the desk. The bathroom layout with a nice shower and plenty of shelves. The spa staff’s quick response in removing someone who thought they "owned" a lounge bed. The pleasant presentation of the daily newsletter, which didn’t look like an obituary notice like those on the Mediterranea in January. The ship’s decor—though that’s subjective, so take it with a grain of salt.

Have a great day!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Vvuv1WSKGQ69Ac9i9

Hi Alain,

Thanks for starting your review.

Our extended cabin (I had chosen it)

What was your cabin number?

Best regards,

Hello, which restaurant were you at? What did you think of the dining spot? Thanks in advance for your reply, have a nice afternoon, best regards.

Hi Alain,

Thanks for starting your review.

Our extended cabin (I had chosen it)

What was your cabin number?

Best regards,

Hi Cédric, we had cabin 10136. Best regards

Hello, Which restaurant were you at? What’s your impression of the dining spot? Thanks in advance for your reply, have a nice afternoon, best regards.

Hi Pascal,

I assume the question was for me. We were at Meneghino on Deck 6, where there are spots that are more or less pleasant. We had our breakfasts and the only lunch on board at Colombina on Deck 6. Best regards

Thanks Alain for your review.

Looking forward to reading more from you.

Yes, sorry, my question was indeed for you. Thanks for the information. Best regards.

Hi again Alain,

Looking at the ship's deck plan, cabin 10136 is an interior cabin, but you mention a "sliding door to access the balcony." Is there a trick I'm missing? 😉

Hi again Alain,

Looking at the ship's deck plan, cabin 10136 is an interior cabin, but you mentioned a "sliding door to access the balcony." Am I missing a trick here? 😉

Sorry about that—I must’ve mixed it up. We had cabin 10138, which *is* a balcony cabin!

Sorry about that—I thought we had cabin 10138, which is definitely a balcony cabin!

Thanks, Alain, I can picture it now on the deck plan ;)

Hello, Once again, a thought for the passengers who are stuck on board the Smeralda in La Spezia today and who won’t be able to visit the Cinque Terre, Florence, Pisa, etc... For once, I’m posting a few menus and some plates because I’m tired of sometimes reading that on ships, you eat like in a cafeteria!! Now, as promised yesterday, here are the things we didn’t appreciate as much. Of course, not everyone will agree, but I’ve put on my usual armor—no worries. We regretted: • The lack of a proper theater and shows, even though there are great activities with talented artists and stage machinery that many theaters could envy!! But why on earth did they forget that you need an audience to enjoy them??? It remains a big mystery to me… I took a panoramic photo FROM THE STAGE, and I think it shows the discomfort of a large part of this theater, where there are more fixed and moving spotlights than "good" seats—I counted, really! • The absence of a table and refrigerator in the cabin. • The sometimes loud sound system, as is often the case on ships. • The small size of the SPA for such a large ship, with a snow room hidden at the end of a hallway far from the rest, which no one can find… except with a GPS!!! • The appearance of some restaurant tables, which sometimes look a bit like McDonald’s, though it didn’t spoil our appetite. • That with 4 main restaurants, there are no staggered services by half an hour, as is done elsewhere: 7 PM and 7:30 PM, 9 PM and 9:30 PM, for example. • The still very limited hours of the cafeteria in the evening: from 8 PM to 9:30 PM. • The near disappearance of the "Costa atmosphere," which was one of the company’s hallmarks. • The lack of respect for recommended dress codes, which is becoming widespread, and I think this is due to a lack of information beforehand. Not everyone is on Facebook to know about it. • The disappearance of useful information in the daily newsletter: weather (the one on Costa TV turned out to be very unreliable) and distances traveled. • The presence of hundreds of poles—there are EVERYWHERE, including in the corridors and especially 18 at the bottom of the "showroom" and 12 at the top! As has been said, it’s a new concept—you have to get used to it…

We don’t regret our cruise at all, which also allowed us to make some pleasant encounters. There were fewer than 5,000 of us on board (out of 5,224 when the ship is full and 6,554 when it’s at maximum capacity), including 1,150 French speakers. We really liked the ship, and we’d happily sail on it again if it changes its itinerary one day.

I’d like to finish by having MORE THAN A THOUGHT FOR ALL THE STAFF MEMBERS, regardless of their rank or role—those we see and those we don’t, because they work hard in the decks without sunlight and dedicate themselves daily for us. They’re going to find themselves unemployed overnight and will likely be disembarked without much consideration—let’s not forget them…

Have a good weekend.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/QWBXNus8DCz1PrMJ9

Hello everyone,

After some thought, I’ve decided to keep posting photos from my last cruise to avoid sinking into the gloom around us, with a special thought for all the people working in so many professions—there are so many of them—to make this period as easy as possible for all of us. On Friday night at 8 p.m., the sirens of the boats docked in Marseille sounded to salute all the healthcare workers. Bravo for that gesture!

Given the context and the weather forecasts, we had very flexible and adaptable plans for each day since we had no idea what to expect. And if things had been just a few days later, it wouldn’t have gone as smoothly—this ended up being the last incident-free cruise on this route! This Monday morning, March 2, the sky was overcast in the Catalan capital when we woke up, so we quietly disembarked to catch a trusty blue bus to take the metro at Drassanes, with the Sagrada Família as our goal. But since we hadn’t booked ahead, it wasn’t a sure thing. Well, it worked out. Bright sunshine when we came out of the metro, and hardly any wait for tickets—they’re always sold as far from the entrance as possible, which helps spread out the lines. Quick access after security and picking up the audio guides. It felt strange to see so few people inside—what a contrast to a visit just a few years ago. This building is the work of the Catalan architect Gaudí, who died at 74 after being hit by a tram in 1926. It’s considered the most original church in the world. To date, the completion of the main structure—regularly delayed—is estimated for 2026, the centenary of its architect’s death, with construction having started in 1882. Its total height is 172 m, with an apse height of 75 m, a surface area of 4,500 m², and a capacity of 14,000 worshippers. It consists of five naves, a transept crossing, an apse, an outer ambulatory, three façades, eighteen towers, and a crypt where he is buried. Gaudí quickly realized that the church, as he had designed it, wouldn’t be finished in his lifetime. Since he didn’t want his project to be altered or distorted after his death, he first built the exterior elements: towers, apse, main façade. That way, he blocked any later attempts to modify his work!!

On July 10, 1936, most of Gaudí’s workshop was burned down by Catalan anticlericals. Due to the destruction of sketches, models, and information about Gaudí’s unique working methods, no master plan remained to indicate how to finish the project. So when construction resumed in 1944, the first step was to figure out how to proceed while staying as true as possible to Gaudí’s ideas. Fun fact: all the work was done without a building permit—the permit was only signed in June 2019!! We had no trouble accessing the apse and the interesting museum located beneath the building.

Gaudí designed many other buildings that are well worth a visit: Park Güell, Casa Batlló, La Pedrera, Palau Güell, Casa Vicens, and about ten others, several of which are UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Next post: Sant Pau Hospital. Take care of yourselves and your families.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/BLNyhtCq8ZN7kKCt8

Hi Fairplay92, Thanks so much for sharing your cruise experience and discovering this amazing new ship, the Costa Smeralda, with such beautiful photos! Such an innovative concept!

Hi Eric, thanks! Here’s the follow-up:

Today I’m taking you on a visit to the Sant Pau Hospital in Barcelona. You might say that with everything going on, it’s quite timely—but that’s not the point here. We walked there from the Sagrada Família; you can spot it in one of the photos. The hospital was designed in 1901 by the Catalan architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner, who also created the Palau de la Música Catalana—another must-see. Construction spanned from 1902 to 1930. It covers 231,000 m², including 67,400 m² divided into 12 pavilions, each dedicated to a medical specialty, plus 27,000 m² of green spaces. It’s the largest Modernist complex in Europe and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It replaced an older hospital of the same name, built between 1401 and 1450 and located in the city, behind La Boqueria market—more details below. In 2003, it was replaced by a much more modern facility to the north of the city. Before the move, some pavilions were renovated to replace shared wards with private rooms. The model photo gives you a good idea of the layout.

The visit starts in the hypostyle hall. Originally, this was a passageway leading to the underground galleries that connect all the pavilions—a major innovation at the time. In these galleries, you can see animated projections on the walls recounting the hospital’s history. In its final years, this space served as the emergency department. Among the areas open to visitors is the Sant Rafael Pavilion, initially designed for traumatology with 44 beds. At the far end of the room, you can admire a giant vintage photo that gives you a sense of how different hospitalization conditions were back then. Each pavilion had a south-facing rotunda where patients received family visits. There was also a chapel dedicated to a saint, where a priest held mass, and ceremonies were held on the saint’s feast day. The central building in the outdoor area housed the operating rooms, which were bathed in natural light but oriented north to avoid direct sunlight. You can see them in one of the photos. During this fascinating visit, we barely crossed paths with 10 people—unbelievable!

Afterward, we took the metro to see the original hospital. When it was founded, it consolidated six scattered care centers in the region. It’s built in the style of a cloister, with four wings and an inner courtyard, as you can see in the photos. It’s easy to see how relocating it was a huge step forward at the time! Today, it houses the National Library of Catalonia, an exhibition center, and conference rooms.

We returned to the ship by walking through La Boqueria market, which was much quieter than usual, then down La Rambla (though it was only March 2, so it wasn’t too crowded), and finally took the handy blue bus.

Next stop: Mallorca. Don’t forget to follow the guidelines to avoid contact, even with people who seem healthy, and take care of yourselves!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/fGyfD73p7k1CPF2h6

Hello, Mallorca is the largest of the four inhabited islands that make up the Balearic archipelago, with an area of 3,625 km² and a population of 908,000. It’s by far the busiest port for cruise ships, especially after Tunisia and Turkey closed, even though some itineraries still pass through Ibiza and Menorca. Tourism plays a major role year-round, with over 13 million visitors in 2018. Like in Barcelona and other cities, this has led to some backlash, but tourism accounts for nearly 80% of the island’s activity. Culture is also important here. Right now, though, it’s empty—Mallorca has been hit hard: no more ships, no planes at the huge airport for such a small island, and of course no road access. When we passed through on March 3, there was no visible concern. Just to remind you, while Italy was already talking about the coronavirus, Spain—and France even more so—still seemed unaffected.

Having visited Mallorca several times before and even embarked from there, we decided—given a so-so weather forecast (which, as usual, turned out to be wrong for the afternoon)—to head to the Caves of Drach. The route covers about 1,200 meters, and there’s a concert during the boat ride on what’s considered one of the largest underground lakes in the world. We were the only boat in port (same as in Barcelona), moored at the farthest dock, the one for large ships. So, we opted to take the shuttle to Palma and then walk to the multimodal hub at Plaça d’Espanya, quite a distance from the cathedral, through small streets. Of course, there were a few photos to take, and we arrived just in time to see the bus leave without us. Back above ground, we passed the time with a coffee and a stroll around the neighborhood before catching the next bus 40 minutes later.

Once on the road, we realized there were quite a few stops, including a long one (same on the way back) in Manacor, the island’s second-largest city. It was starting to look risky to stick to our original plan since we didn’t have the return bus schedules. No problem—we had a Plan B: check out Porto Cristo. Originally a fishing port nestled in a beautiful natural cove (see map), it’s now a family-friendly tourist spot. It’s well-known but pretty quiet at this time of year, as you can see in the photos. We then returned to Palma under perfect weather, which encouraged us to wander around this lovely city. After that, we took the second-to-last shuttle back to the ship, heading toward Civitavecchia and Rome, which will be the subject of the next report. The photos are organized in the order of our visits.

Have a great weekend!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/H5BbAWmRZokzMhAj7

Hello, Here’s the stop in Rome from March 5th now. With the day’s weather forecast looking optimistic, we disembarked as soon as possible. Record broken: we left the ship at 8:15 AM and were inside St. Peter’s by 10:40 AM!! We took the train and got off at Sant Pietro. Initially, we had no intention of visiting the basilica because of the endless lines (thousands of people and usually 2 hours of waiting just to get in—see the first photo from another visit). Our goal was to take a few photos with that beautiful blue sky and walk to Castel Sant’Angelo and the nearby Tiber River.

When we arrived at St. Peter’s Square, the largest in Rome—62,500 m² and able to hold 300,000 worshippers during blessings—we were amazed to see so few people and even thought it might be closed. Not at all! Only 2 out of the dozen or so security checkpoints were open. The second photo shows the short line to the right of the big screen. For context, at that time, Rome hadn’t been declared a risk zone (though that didn’t mean it wasn’t one) by the Italian government. Since Lombardy and Veneto had been, that might have scared off some tourists—though by the time we left around noon, there were noticeably more people. So, we had the chance to enjoy a peaceful visit, including the museum and the crypt beneath the nave, which has several chapels and over 140 tombs of kings, queens, and popes, including John Paul II’s. The square, which was started in 1658, is surrounded by 284 columns, 17 meters high, arranged in 4 rows, and 140 statues, each 3 meters tall. The whole thing is the work of architect Lorenzo Bernini, who also designed the immense baldachin at the heart of the basilica. It’s laid out in two semicircular wings, allowing processions to pass through in case of rain. At the center stands a 25-meter-tall Egyptian obelisk, and there are also two fountains. This ensemble is world-famous.

St. Peter’s Basilica, which closes off the square on the Vatican side, is the most important religious building in Catholicism. It’s considered the greatest architectural achievement of its time and remains one of the most visited monuments in the world. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site. Construction began on April 18, 1506, on the site of the ancient Vatican basilica built under Emperor Constantine I, and was completed in 1626. Its most notable architects were Bramante, Michelangelo, Maderno, and Lorenzo Bernini. It’s not Rome’s cathedral—that’s St. John Lateran. This is the Vatican and papal basilica. It’s 218 meters long (the equivalent of 2 football fields), 154 meters wide, with a surface area of over 15,000 m², 137 meters high, and can hold 60,000 worshippers. It has 27 richly decorated chapels. For comparison, the Sagrada Família, which I mentioned in a previous report, can hold 14,000. If you put Notre-Dame de Paris inside, it would only take up two-thirds of the space! Enjoy the photos. Wishing you all a happy Easter, even if it’s not the most joyful one…

Next report: more of our Rome visit.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JAC4Y4Bfi1y6edBLA

Hello, here’s the continuation of our visit to Rome on 05/03/2020. After leaving St. Peter’s, the subject of the previous report, we headed toward Castel Sant’Angelo. Everyone who’s been to Rome has seen it, but few—including us—have stopped there. It was commissioned by Emperor Hadrian to serve as his tomb. It later served as a prison for a long time. It now houses a museum and is surrounded by a pleasant park where we settled to eat our fruit. Next, we headed to the majestic Palace of Justice. Built between 1888 and 1910, it measures 170 x 155 meters and is entirely covered in travertine.

We then made our way to Piazza Navona, where we spotted Carole’s van but couldn’t say hello—she had just left before we reached her. Thanks to her, we were able to redo this beautiful route on our own. This Baroque square, 240 meters long, is considered the most beautiful in Rome, with its obelisk and three fountains, including the central one by Bernini (see St. Peter’s report).

Our next goal was the Pantheon, which we reached after visiting several churches, including the beautiful Chiesa del Gesù. There were also few people at the Pantheon, where crowds usually gather in tight lines. This gave us the chance to fully appreciate this truly remarkable building, the first version of which was built in the 1st century BC. The current structure, built under Hadrian’s reign in 125 AD, is the third. The façade’s portico features 16 Corinthian columns originally from Egypt. The rotunda, the heart of the building, is a perfectly circular wall 58 meters in external diameter, forming a double wall nearly 7 meters thick. It’s topped by a dome 43.30 meters in diameter, equal to the building’s height, with a central opening (oculus) 8.7 meters in diameter to let in light. To this day, it remains the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world. Since it rains inside, the sloped floor and a series of 22 holes allow water to drain. The rich interior decoration dates back to 1747. It’s the oldest complete monument in the Eternal City; it has been modified over the centuries but without altering its original structure. Several kings of Italy are buried there—you can see them in the photos.

We then headed to the Spanish Steps via detours to enjoy views of beautiful buildings and churches. We found it unusually empty as well. We passed by the Pope’s Roman residence. We ended our day in the gardens of Villa Borghese to breathe in a bit of French air before descending toward the original Piazza del Popolo, where we took the metro to the central station and Civitavecchia. We boarded the ship tired—nearly 30,000 steps—but delighted by these visits in such an unusually quiet atmosphere.

Next stop: La Spezia

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KYmHxAz1VGGecM9A9

Hello, here’s the stop in La Spezia on March 6th. There are plenty of sightseeing options. The most beautiful: Florence, but it’s quite far, and we’ve already been there. Plus, after Rome, we didn’t want to find ourselves in another big city, especially so close to one of the two regions in Italy officially affected at the time. Other options: Pisa, which we also know, and the Cinque Terre. That left Porto Venere, which isn’t talked about much—perfect, because there are fewer people, though it’s definitely worth a visit. Buses run several times an hour, and there were very few people at this time of year. We were only five getting off at the terminus. It’s a small fishing village at the mouth of the Gulf of La Spezia, with around 4,000 inhabitants. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, like the Cinque Terre (though it’s not officially part of them) and has no road or rail connection to the first of the five villages. The old town of Porto Venere is hidden behind the colorful buildings you see from the port. Doria Castle is one of the city’s iconic sites. Built by the Genoese in the 12th century, this military fortress has a strategic location. Other historic sites to see include the Church of San Lorenzo and the Church of San Pietro, which you shouldn’t miss for its incredible cliffside position. From this church, the view of the bay is stunning, and you can clearly see one of the three islands opposite. Fried fish is apparently a local specialty. We spent a good two hours wandering, admiring the monuments, the alleys, and the port in absolute tranquility—the place was almost deserted. See the photos. There were lots of seagulls, which I enjoyed photographing. On the way back, I satisfied a curiosity that must be shared by many who’ve stopped here: what does the inside of the circular church overlooking the port look like? The answer is here.

Have a great week.

Next and final stop: Savona.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mfku88bN7ZXc22X16

Hello, here’s our latest stop: Savona. Just to recap, it’s the home base of Costa, which built two beautiful maritime stations there, one of them specially adapted for the Smeralda. It’s a city of 60,000 inhabitants, nestled between the Ligurian Sea and Piedmont. We had planned to take the bus to visit the medieval village of Finalborgo. Given the proximity to Lombardy and the increasingly worrying news, we didn’t want to take any risks and settled for a long walk around the city. We quickly saw two small posters (see photos) that confirmed we’d made the right decision to be cautious. We regretted not bringing our masks, but no one was wearing them. There were people at café and restaurant terraces, but we also saw lines outside shops with people respecting social distancing—something we hadn’t noticed in Rome two days earlier.

One of Savona’s most famous landmarks, the symbol of the city, is the Leon Pancaldo Tower (Magellan’s sailor), also called the Torreta (the little tower). Don’t confuse it with the Brandale Tower, which is further west, next to the old palace. It’s a remnant of the city’s old fortified walls, dating back to the 15th century and standing 20 meters tall. Unfortunately, the Sistine Chapel (one of the main attractions) was closed, as was the bishop’s palace. However, the adjacent Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta was open, along with other churches.

Via Paleocapa, or the street of arcades, is interesting to explore. We also enjoyed wandering through the old streets of the city center, passing near the covered market (though we didn’t go in) and in front of the town hall. We returned to the ship early to enjoy the spa one last time before disembarking in Marseille the next day.

As we left Savona, we thought we’d be back on April 28th to board the Fortuna for a Baltic cruise—unfortunately, that didn’t happen. Our successors who embarked on March 8th in Marseille and March 9th in Barcelona faced quite a few vicissitudes since, unless I’m mistaken, we were the last cruise to complete our itinerary without any issues on land or on board. There were relatively few of us—5,000 passengers, including 1,200 French—compared to the size of the ship, so it was comfortable! Have a great day. https://photos.app.goo.gl/Tvu36PVsURWwH82u7

Hello Fairplay92, Could you tell me if you took the train on your own or if you took the electric train trip with Costa? If you traveled on your own, is it easy to find your way around and buy tickets at the station without wasting too much time? We’ll be going on a Costa Smeralda cruise in June. Thanks for your reply! Cruisily yours, Lysie

Hi Lysie, there’s a shuttle that takes you to Civitavecchia train station from the port. Trains run every 30 minutes, and the trip takes a little over 1 hour depending on where you get off. There are ticket counters and vending machines. For the return trip, allow plenty of time, and if you’re leaving from the central station, it’ll take almost 10 minutes to reach the far platforms for Civitavecchia. Have a great cruise.

Hi Fairplay92, thanks for your reply. I gather you managed on your own, without taking the Costa transfer. I’m worried the train station will be packed... I’m wondering if I shouldn’t book the round-trip train with Costa just to be safe. Thanks again for your reply. Lysie

That’s right, we managed on our own, Lysie1812—it’s the case for 80% of the excursions we do, no matter the country. It’s all about getting used to it and preparing; you just need to find the time.