Cape Town and Kruger: 12 days in February with teens

Hi everyone,

I’d love to share a little travel journal from our 14-day/12-night road trip with our two teens (14 and 17) in February/March 2020. A huge thank you to all of you who helped me plan this trip to South Africa—your patience with my endless questions was amazing!



We left Lyon on Saturday, February 22 at 7:00 AM and arrived in Johannesburg at 10:00 PM after a short layover in Amsterdam. Flights cost 440 € per person (booked in October), with carry-on luggage. We added just one checked bag for the whole family (80 € round-trip with the free Flying Blue membership). Since we’d be moving around a lot, we packed light! In Lyon, we reserved parking at P5 in advance for 70 € for 14 days. The Air France/KLM flight was smooth. When we landed, we picked up our bags and had booked a night at the Aero Guest Lodge, just 5 minutes from the airport, with a free shuttle and breakfast. All you have to do is send a WhatsApp message when you arrive at the airport to let the shuttle driver know. The tricky part? Finding him in the terminal—he wasn’t holding a sign with the hotel’s name. 🤪 A South African called him for me since my English wasn’t great (and I had to get used to the accent 😛), and helped us spot the driver (who was actually less than 5 meters away!) with other guests. When we got to the hotel: all good, except we were 10 people in a van meant for 7. The room was spacious—one king-size bed and two single beds for the kids—with a simple but clean bathroom, a garden, pool, and breakfast (which we didn’t try). All for 65 €, so an awesome value!

After a restful night, we woke up at 6:00 AM to catch the shuttle back to the airport. Just a heads-up: there’s only one shuttle per hour in the morning, and Kulula canceled our 9:00 AM flight, moving it to 8:00 AM—so no time for breakfast (it starts at 6:30). We waited 15 minutes in the lovely garden for the driver, who dropped us off at the airport in 5 minutes. We checked in for our flight to Cape Town, which cost around 40 € (including two checked bags per person). We grabbed breakfast at the airport instead (less than 20 € for all four of us—one of the nice surprises of South Africa!), and arrived in Cape Town at 10:20 AM.

After quickly picking up our bags, we headed to the Avis counter and left with a Toyota Corolla for 80 € for 4 days (rented with the Flying Blue card—free additional driver). Everything’s on the left... not easy, but it works if you plan your route well. We drove to our Airbnb in Constantia. We were surprised to see animals, bikes, and pedestrians on the highway! We arrived around 11:30 AM at our rental—a huge house in the vineyards, in a super secure neighborhood, about 15-20 minutes from Hout Bay. It felt like Beverly Hills, but with super-high walls and barbed wire around the villas. 😕



We dropped off our bags, changed into shorts (it was around 30°C/86°F), and headed to the Bay Harbour Market in Hout Bay. We had lunch there—such a great vibe! We wandered through the stalls, everyone picked their own dish, and we sat down on the terrace. There was music, artisans of all kinds... a really nice moment.



I’d withdrawn 50 € before leaving... and that gave me change to pay the parking attendant. Lunch cost around 30 € for four, including food and drinks.



After browsing the artisan stalls, we headed to Hout Bay Beach near the restaurant, Marina Wharf (another small tip for the parking attendant—we’d have to get used to that!). We stopped to admire the sea lions. An ice cream for 1 €? No way we were saying no! 🙂





The fatigue was starting to hit, so we headed to the grocery store 10 minutes away (Constantia shopping center) and then had an aperitif in front of the vineyards, opening a delicious bottle of white wine.

Hi Aude,

My favorite destination—I’m in! 🙂

Welcome Régis!! I’m warning you, it’s hot!

February, I can imagine 😛

Monday, After a great night at Kim’s place, we’re all refreshed. The beds are super comfy, everything’s stylish, the view is stunning, the sky’s blue, and the sun’s shining (there’s the setting!). Breakfast on the terrace, with the parasol😛. And most importantly, "fill up, we don’t know when we’ll eat next," says the mom to her kids (bottomless pits, those two😐). We’re getting ready for the Cape Peninsula... I can’t wait to finally see the penguins—it’s why I decided to come down to the Cape! We hop in the Toyota—passenger on the left!!—and head toward Muizenberg. The road there is unsettling. We leave our fancy suburb to drive through areas that are way less clean, townships. I wonder what all these people sitting along the roads, on the sidewalks, by the dozens, are doing??? What I quickly realize is that there are white neighborhoods and Black neighborhoods. Last year in the U.S., it was a bit more mixed. Anyway, we arrive at False Bay... meh. The concrete amusement park along the beach gives it a kinda creepy vibe. It’s windy, and we’ve lost about 10 degrees. Watch out for sharks!! Well, we weren’t planning on taking a dip anyway, even though there are groups taking surf lessons. We park (which means... coins, yep, you’re getting the hang of it). Pro tip: grab a bunch of coins as soon as you can—it’s tricky since you often pay by card. We take the obligatory photo.

Duh, I should’ve taken it from the other side to see the ocean🤪. But whatever, it’s too windy, so we head out.

Destination: the penguins, the penguins!!!! (my obsession, as you’ve probably gathered) We park at the second beach in Boulder Beach at Simon's Town, known to most of us as the secret beach 😛. Parking is easy, we enter with the Wild Card, and then—I’m completely smitten. It’s even more beautiful than I imagined: the Seychelles!! (for the beach, not the water)

We slip under the rock formations to move from beach to beach, meeting colonies of:



Penguins!!



We backtrack to take the wooden walkway and reach the other spot, which is much more crowded (about a 10/15-minute walk).

Much more crowded with animals but also with tourists! 😕. Along the way, we spot a tortoise and a dassie (the only one of our trip).

A tip: it’s better to start at this second beach and then head to the secret one (😉) by taking the wooden walkway to observe them up close. This beach is one of my best travel memories.

We set off again: left for the passenger! ****

Next stop: the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point.

I expect hundreds of meters of queue—well, just a 10-minute wait. We show the Wild Card and zoom through. There’s construction, so traffic is alternating: some good moments of waiting with the engine off. By the way, I noticed quite a few women working on the public construction sites. We arrive at Cape Point, park, and walk for 5 minutes (a nightmare for the couch potatoes, especially my 14-year-old daughter Caroline: "We’re not walking!! We’re on vacation, aren’t we!!"). So, to avoid any conflict, I immediately pay for a round-trip on the funicular! 18 € for 4. We wait 15 minutes.

At the top, wind, wind, and more wind (and tourists, tourists). But also a stunning view.

The other side:

Lots of people going up or down on foot (yes, Caroline, it’s doable on foot) in the heat (though I’m glad I have my daughter as an excuse... it’s too hot to climb on foot). Anyway, back down with the funicular to the parking lot.

We spot our first baboon and witness a scene where young tourists don’t know what to do with a baboon that got into their vehicle and won’t leave (I still don’t know how it ended??). The baboons even go through the trash bins in the restrooms looking for food scraps. "When do we eat?" asks the couch potato. Well, not now with the baboons around! And boom! We hit the road again (otherwise, I imagine it’s a nice walk on foot.... 😕 I don’t even dare suggest it, despite the gentle slope), heading to the mythical cape. Another stop with alternating traffic, which really stretches out the trip. I finally say, "We would’ve been MUCH faster on foot!" . The upside of the alternating traffic: we’re the first ones parked. Quick photo, no waiting. I can’t imagine what it’s like when there’s a bus! So beautiful!!

We leave, but before eating 🙂, I suggest to my husband that we backtrack to a beach we missed on the way—Miller’s Point. It’ll take 15 minutes max! We drive for 10 minutes, park (well, no, no coin to give, no one’s there!), and there it is—another stunning beach.



There’s a pool carved into the rock... I really want to stay and soak in the scenery, but the kids are hungry . We should’ve brought a picnic. 10 minutes there, 10 minutes on-site, 10 minutes back... but that’s what I told you—15 minutes max!! 😛

Okay, we head to Scarborough to find a restaurant. Oh, I forgot—no signal at the cape, so no way to check if the restaurant I’d picked (The Hub Café) is closed on Mondays. We settle for the Camel Rock, right next door. We sit on the terrace, order enough to satisfy the couch potatoes. The restaurant isn’t memorable, but the side terrace is quiet, and the service is quick. It does the job for 30 € for 4. I order a small beer, and the server brings me a half-liter mug: I’m seeing baboons everywhere! We take the road back after checking out the surfers’ beach. We head toward Chapman’s Peak Drive, making stops (which is why it’s better to take it on the way back—easier to pull over).





Great view of Hout Bay... We hit some traffic jams, but hey, their bellies are full, so they’re whining less! Back to Constantia... Exhausted, but with stars in our eyes—no, penguins! We end the day with a nice glass of white wine overlooking the vineyards.

Hi Aude,

Cape Town + Kruger in February—a combo I’m *so* interested in… so, I’m in! 🙂. Just one question: how far in advance did you book your Kruger accommodations? (February isn’t peak season.) Muriel

Hi Muriel, Welcome. Booked in September: there weren’t many options left... oh well, for better or worse. I’ll come back to it once we’re there 😛. Have a great day

Thanks Aude. That still gives us a little time... to have more options 😛. Muriel

Hi Aude, I’m joining Régis and Muriel too 😉. That "secret" beach is amazing... we looked for it but never found it . I can tell you’re gonna make me want to go back..., like I needed that .

Gorgeous, this "secret" beach... that we searched for without finding 😮.

A bit like cats

Hi

Normally right near where the last photo of Hout Bay was taken...

There’s a leopard...

A leopard statue...

(if I remember correctly)

Hello

Normally right near where the last photo of Hout Bay was taken...

There’s a leopard...

A leopard statue...

(if my memory serves me right)

And you’re telling me this now, Michel? 😯 I could’ve had a feline on my list even if it’s just a statue! 😂

Welcome!! We’re talking about the main beach—we almost didn’t find it!! The two are connected by a wooden walkway. But yeah, you’re right, you’ve gotta go back—it’s a great spot!

Hello

Normally right near where the last photo of Hout Bay was taken...

There’s a leopard...

A leopard statue...

(if my memory serves me right)

Well, that doesn’t ring a bell, but anyway, Michel, we were there for the... PENGUINS😛

Without wanting to twist the knife, on the little beach, you can get close to them! They were basking in the sun... just like the tourists 😛. There were some swimming (both penguins AND tourists). But I think the water temperature was more suited to the first category

Yeah, I really don’t see myself swimming there either... 😅

Hi there,

Today is Tuesday, 25.02. We really took everyone’s advice to heart: "As soon as the weather’s nice, head straight to... Table Mountain." So, since it’s STILL nice out, we figured we shouldn’t tempt fate—better go this morning in case the wind picks up, the clouds roll in, or... well, you know. Anyway, I set up breakfast on the terrace with the umbrella. Everyone gets up: "It’s too hot! Let’s go back inside." And boom! 😕 I say, "Don’t forget to fill up the stomachs above those legs—you’re not planning to make us eat again at 3:30 PM, right?!!!" "No, no...!" So we pile into the Corolla (driver on the left, passenger on the left!!). Every time we pull out of a parking spot, we remind ourselves: here, we drive on the left (yesterday, we ended up face-to-face with another car leaving our rental... we almost yelled at them before remembering ). By the time we leave, it’s 9 AM. The inertia of a group of four—two of them teens—is unreal. You’ve really got to factor that into travel prep. We arrive around 9:30... and end up parked *way* out, by the side of the road. We hand over some change to the parking attendant, who speaks perfect French, and start the climb. My Caroline: "We’re not hiking ALL the way up, right?! It’s hot..." Maybe because we were about to get closer by climbing to the top of the mountain that God gave me a little help. A sedan stops—a woman and her daughter: "Do you want me to take you up?" I shove my daughter in, we all pile in after, and just like that, we’re at the top in under two minutes in an air-conditioned car. "Thank you, ma’am. Thank you, God." I get in line to buy tickets with my Wild Card for the discount (53 € for 4), and send the rest of the family to queue for the cable car. With my tickets in hand, I trek back up an endless line in full sun, with a few umbrellas, to rejoin them...

Let me tell you, we had plenty of time to take photos of the cable cars—the yellow one, the red one—and Table Mountain, Signal Hill (I didn’t even dare suggest we might go for a walk there😛), and everything else... We move forward, cross the road, queue up again in the other direction, take the elevator, then board the cable car. And to think we complain about waiting 5 minutes for a ski lift... and it’s *way* less hot! We stick to the sides, and up we go—super fast this time (too fast), it spins, we soak in the view, then arrive at the top, hoping we won’t have to face the same queue on the way down. The bottomless pits (aka the teens) reluctantly walk around the summit... and then start talking about going back down! "What? We just spent two hours in line (okay, I’m exaggerating a little), and now we’re only staying for *that* long, whether you like it or not!" "Anyway, *I’ve* got the return tickets!" Boom.







It’s so hot I’m dreaming of heading down to the golden-sand beaches... I comment on the view: "Over there’s Camp’s Bay... we could swing by before grabbing lunch at Kirstenbosch Gardens." Dark looks from the bottomless pits. "WHAT? We’re not eating at snack time again." I quickly realize that if I don’t want to finish my vacation alone (they all wanted to go back to the US, not South Africa), I’d better change my plans *fast*. "Of course, my darlings, we’ll head back down right away (without mentioning the queue waiting for us), and go STRAIGHT to eat." We queue up again—shorter this time, just 30 minutes max—and enjoy another ride in the rotating cable car.

We have to walk back to the car (God must’ve been eating at that hour—no sedan stopping for us), turn on the AC... it’s 38°C ... but we remember it’s cold in France and decide not to complain.

Caroline: "Anyway, I prefer going where it’s cold." 😕 Oh, and I forgot to mention—we saw a kid faint at the top from the heat! Back in the car, Simone... and the others (!), and off to the gardens. I’m thinking it might not be the best idea, but given the heat, maybe it’s not so bad after all...

... Tuesday continued. We met up quickly (I had to!), at the gardens. We parked in the shade, bought tickets for 12 € for 4, and headed to a restaurant I’d spotted: the tea room (after a little climb). A lovely table in the shade... Michel, we came across this statue on the way.

Oh, I remember that! We ordered water—nice and cold. Then a great meal for 30 € for 4. I recommend it. With full bellies, we tried to motivate ourselves to explore the gardens...





The view is stunning. But for flowers, it must be way better in spring!! There weren’t many people around. I’d initially wanted to come on the Sunday we arrived to catch a picnic concert... but I figured we’d be wiped out, and when I read the program, I wasn’t thrilled... Anyway, we bought the guidebook in French... which didn’t end up being much help.

The kids hid on a bench, "We’re done." "NO!!!" I told them, "we’re carrying on" (I had my secret weapon: the canopy walkway).

That’s where I scored points. We savored the scenery, the peace and quiet. There are guided walks if you’re interested.



One last one:

And then we didn’t have the energy to go back to the beaches. Headed to the Constantia supermarket, 10 mins away (30 mins because we got lost!). We looked for beers—everywhere. I asked and was told, "no beer." We left and found a liquor store across the street. Phew, saved... At every intersection, people (often Black) handing out little slips of paper... anyone know what that’s about? Didn’t get it. Others ask for help, sell books, paintings, beg for a meal, work... It really gets to me... there are so many contrasts every 500 meters that it throws me off. I love it, I don’t love it... I can’t make up my mind!

Back to "C’est la Vie"—that’s the name of the rental. We had our first braai, drank our beers, and relaxed after a hot day.





To finish, a few photos of Kim’s house: 440 €. 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, small pool, garden, living room with TV, fiber internet (vital for the couch potatoes); 2 toilets. Washing machine, dryer, Nespresso... Just steps from the famous vineyards. And the house was spotless. I recommend it (PS: there are bars on the inside of every window—it’s odd, probably necessary, but a pain to open and close...).

Good evening Aude,

Those sunny photos are gorgeous! Like you, I love penguins 🙂 If the kids don’t want to keep up, I’ll happily step in last-minute for the next trip 😉 We’re hoping to follow in your footsteps next July if the situation allows.

Thanks for sharing—can’t wait to read more!

Welcome Holigirl!! Yep, there’s room… always room 🙂, especially if you don’t complain about being hungry 😛.

So, Anne, your "walking stomachs" seem to have traumatized you 😄. Muriel

If this message is for me, then yes..😕!! It's a compromise trip. Traveling as a group of four isn’t the same as traveling alone or as a couple. I wouldn’t have chosen this itinerary or structured the days this way if it were just the two of us adults—definitely not! That’s why my title says: road trip with teens. But hey, they’re growing up... and I’m making the most of it despite the downsides.

Hi there, Where were we... oh right, Wednesday, February 26th. Still in Cape Town before leaving tomorrow. When I planned my itinerary, I thought I wouldn’t want to stay too long in Cape Town since I’m not a big fan of cities, but I realize I could’ve stayed a bit longer. To visit the vineyards, for example. Oh well, no time for regrets—just time to get ready. I bought tickets for the sightseeing bus on their website and used the code: cssww10.bus to get an extra discount. I paid 44 euros. Off to the City Bowl! Morning routine (we’ve settled into Kim’s house), then we hopped into the Corolla and headed to the beaches first. And this morning, it’s not as hot. 🙂 We drove along Camp Bay and Clifton Bay—gorgeous beaches.

We headed to the Waterfront to park in an affordable covered lot: the Waterfront Breakwater. We paid 2.5 euros for the day. We got out, walked through the mall, and found ourselves right in the heart of the Waterfront. It’s safe.

We crossed the docks to the left (it’s signposted) to reach the bus departure point. I showed my ticket on my smartphone when boarding, and they gave each of us headphones for the French audio guide (the woman had a strong Southern French accent—it was funny!).

The view of the city wasn’t memorable. The bus took us straight up to 81 Long Street, where we got off. I’d initially wanted to walk to the center, but I was advised against it because of the distance and safety concerns.



We went into the bus company’s annex office to head downstairs, where it was air-conditioned with restrooms and Wi-Fi (the kids were thrilled). There was a counter where you could sign up for free guided tours (5 departures a day) of the historic center or Bo-Kaap (3 a day). We opted for the city center tour at noon. For info, you have to go to the meet-up point by turning left onto Greenmarket Square. We were a group of 10–12 people, and the tour was in English. It lasted 1.5 hours.





We passed Victorian houses, a remnant of the Berlin Wall, the Company’s Garden and its squirrels, St. George’s Cathedral... The explanations seemed great, but since it was all in English, I struggled to follow. The teens found it a bit long.

But I wanted the kids to see these benches: the remnants of apartheid gave us chills.





I’m not a huge fan of this city. Police officers mark the street corners, and you can tell you shouldn’t wander off. Aside from the Victorian houses, the other buildings are pretty ordinary. There’s poverty—people living with their families on the streets, on benches, at intersections... And yet, there are joyful musical groups, and people are smiling.



Tipping is highly recommended for the guide, who earns their living that way. They deserved it for their good mood and enthusiasm. I’d wanted to visit Bo-Kaap next, but the family was already seated on the terrace of the first restaurant! A funny detail: in restaurants, as soon as one person finishes eating, their plate is cleared—the servers don’t wait for everyone to finish. A tip of about 10% should be added (unless it’s included—check, but it’s rare).

We took a break with a musical group on Greenmarket Square, under the shade of umbrellas—the sky was blue. We walked up to Bo-Kaap—it’s steep. No safety issues: we got there in under 15 minutes.







We loved these colorful houses... We headed back to Long Street for a bus tour on the yellow downtown line, which passes by the Citadel. Meh, but at least we were seated on the top deck, still with the woman telling us the city’s history in her Marseilles accent. 😛 Time was ticking. We got off at Long Street to take the blue line, I think, which goes by Table Mountain and the beaches. I’d hesitated between this big tour and taking an Uber to the Waterfront. I didn’t regret my choice because from the bus, we were elevated and had a better view—and even the driver could enjoy it! We never waited long between buses.





Villas are extremely expensive in Camp Bay. Caroline found out that Nabila (you know, from *allo*) rented one with her partner and their little boy (we got all the details)—she’s in Cape Town for a reality TV show. Well, that suddenly made the destination a lot more interesting. 😉 Indeed, Camp Bay has a Florida vibe: dream villas with infinity pools, a promenade for jogging along the golden-sand beaches, turquoise water, bars, and restaurants... Add to that mountain landscapes right behind, where you can do all kinds of sports. But I still have those stark contrasts in mind—the townships, the poverty on the lawns, benches, intersections... I wouldn’t want to live here.

For soccer fans. We passed through Sea Point and Green Point, enjoying the sun from our perch on the bus, and headed back to the Waterfront.

Hi Aude, Thanks for your Cape Town road trip post—I can’t wait to read the rest! 🙂

So, where were we? Off to the Waterfront. The hop-on hop-off bus drops us back at the docks, right where we got on this morning. I know, that’s how it works, but I still think it’s pretty great. 😛 We could’ve taken it from Constantia (the blue line, I think), but given the parking price, it was better this way.

We spot our first rhinoceros: yes! I’ve started my Big Five.



The Waterfront is a whole different vibe. Very touristy, but for me, it’s also really pleasant. It’s all clean, colorful, and cheerful. This area is a hit with everyone. The kids get their energy back.



There’s an artisan market... it’s amazing what they can make from Coca-Cola cans or scrap metal! The South Africans are real artists when it comes to that.





You’ll find a Ferris wheel, all kinds of street performers, restaurants, shops, sea lions... These docks for strolling remind me of San Francisco and its piers.

There’s also a gorgeous shopping mall with luxury brands and more affordable ones.

As for prices, it’s not like the US outlets—they’re the same as what we see back home. Too bad. 😕





The thing is, we didn’t get to enjoy this area as much as we’d have liked because of the time (and yes, lunch at restaurants takes forever 🤪). That’s why, in the end, we should’ve skipped it given our timing for the guided city tour. But if you’ve got more time, you should do both! We stop to grab groceries for tonight’s meal before heading back—the supermarket is on the way to the parking lot. And here we are on the road back to our house in Constantia, taking the beach route. The sun sets (so fast), and it’s stunning. We didn’t even have time to grab a drink on the beach... which I’d definitely recommend.





We get back to Kim’s house to have our last braai and pack our bags. We’ve got an early flight to Johannesburg tomorrow morning. In the end, 3 and a half days is a bit short. I know, we always say that, and I say it even more now that I think the rest of the trip felt a bit long. I skipped Robben Island because of our English level. It’s too bad there’s no audio guide system like at Alcatraz (the comparison is awkward, but it’s an old prison on an island, and it works really well). I regret not doing a wine tasting, especially since Kim’s house is really close to Klein and Groot Constantia, and not going to a slightly fancier restaurant. I regret not going to Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. Not being able to have a drink on the beach. Not getting to see the sunset from Signal Hill. At the same time, with all the warnings about not lingering in the evening... Well, I’d better get back to packing....

Hi there!

Hope you brought back some souvenirs from the African Trading Port—there are some beautiful pieces!

About the Waterfront looking like the Piers in SF, I had the same thought. And I dug deeper: some sources say its engineers were actually inspired by the Californian city.

Thanks Julien for the insight! And no, didn’t have time to pop into the shop 😕...

Thursday, 27.02

Transit day. We got up early—there was crazy wind all night. Check-out at 6:30 AM (Kim was really accommodating). Before leaving, Caroline calls me: there’s a spider as big as a tarantula in the bathroom... 🤪 That hurries us into the Corolla. Heading to the airport... there’s quite a bit of traffic at this hour (the sun rises early). We’re returning the Toyota to Avis. We take out the luggage, and the employee calls us: "There is a problème" "Where????" "Here!" The bumper is scratched!! And when I say scratched, it’s really badly scratched! We hadn’t noticed anything. The guy must hear this all the time, but for us, it was true. 😇 We were always careful with the car... we still don’t understand what could’ve happened...

Okay, we sign the report. We rush to the airport. I tell Didier: by the way, did you take a photo of the damage? Because the deductible is quite a few euros, so a lot of rands: he runs back, *click clack*, then catches up with us.

Three days later: we’re directly charged 104 € for the bumper—fair, I was expecting worse. And when we got back: we sent everything to the Crédit Agricole Visa Premier insurance: perfect, reimbursed to the last euro. A tip if this happens to you: keep all your documents (report, rental invoice...).

Smooth flight with Kulula: 33 € for the tickets bought during Black Friday. We arrive in Johannesburg at 11:20 AM, then head to Avis again: "no extra insurance," they say, twisting their nose. I had asked for a Ford Ecosport, but they bring us a Suzuki Vitara, which I *think* is lower... (I’ll have to check—just did... I was right, there’s a 0.5 cm difference 😎, I sensed it right away 😛). And on top of that, it’s red!! So much for being discreet.

A tip for leaving the airport: follow the direction to Bolskurg, marked on the ground and signs—it’s not obvious because the roads intersect closely.

We don’t linger; we’ve got a long drive ahead. I had initially planned a lodge in Berg en Dal, in Kruger, but based on some of your advice, I canceled—afraid we wouldn’t arrive before the 6:30 PM closing. It’s true there’s construction on the road: there’s *so much* roadwork. Roadwork and police patrols: I’ve *never* seen so many in my life 🙁 So we drive 10 km/h under the speed limit. The landscape is... like in France: reminds us of Aisne or the Ardennes 😕

We stop in Middelburg at McDonald’s. The kids go wild: the Big Mac meal is a steal. 4 Maxi Best Of meals and a sundae for 15 € 🙂. No problem, mom’s treating 😛

We hit the road again and arrive at 5:30 PM at Rockvale Ridge Lodge, which in the meantime changed its name—didn’t help us find it: Nkomazi Kruger Lodge. You have to take the gas station on the left, then follow the road for about a minute. We’re in Malelane, right near the gate of the same name to enter Kruger tomorrow.

The hotel is near the road, so a bit noisy, but it’s made up of several "chalets." I booked directly on the hotel’s website and got a discount—nearly 50% off compared to the usual Book*** or Hot****.com. We paid around 80 € for a spotless apartment with 2 large bedrooms (1 king-size bed and 2 beds for the teens), 2 big bathrooms and toilets, a fully equipped kitchen, a large living room with 2 sofas, and a terrace.





The welcome is friendly. The pool isn’t huge but is nice and refreshing. There’s a restaurant (above): dinner (and a second burger and fries for my son 😠) was pleasant by the water for around 30 €, wine included. For the tip: bring cash, otherwise the employee can’t keep it if you pay by card.

Off to bed—excited to be in Kruger tomorrow!

In the end, it was better to sleep outside 🙂

Just so you know, you don’t usually need cash for tips—there’s a "tips" field on the bill where you can just add the amount.

Régis. It was you and Michel who warned me about the long road... when we passed by, the construction site you mentioned was still there, but the workers must have gone home, so no traffic jam. But yeah, I think we made the right call sleeping outside Kruger. I think it could have been done, but with a lot of stress and without the break at McDonald's (such a shame😛), so way too tiring. Plus, the accommodation was great. Thanks for the tip! Just so you know, I was able to cancel my booking at Berg en Dal without any issues and got a refund by filling out a form since the cancellation was made more than a month before the stay. And regarding the tipping issue, we didn’t run into that problem anywhere else. We were always able to add the tip to the bill and pay it with our card.

Friday, March 27.

Here we go, it's the big day! 🙂 We started our anti-malaria treatment the day before. Bought it at a Lafayette pharmacy for less than 12 euros a box. For info, since I had a prescription (mandatory), my health insurance reimbursed the treatment. So, as I was saying: we get up and head to breakfast, which is "included." Well, we were pretty disappointed by the hotel’s selection. Instant coffee, fruit salad, a bit of yogurt and muesli. No bread, no butter, no jam. Only 2 cookies left for 4 of us. The real breakfast—eggs and bacon—is extra, but oh well, no big deal. We check out and head to the supermarket, a Pick n Pay. It’s not the same range as in Cape Town, but we still find stuff for a picnic, enough to fill up those bottomless stomachs (we always bring a foldable cooler bag for groceries and cold water...). We also grab some charcoal for braais, water...

There are small shops in the camps we chose, but we’ll see on the spot that they’re more or less (mostly less) well-stocked.



We arrive at the Malelane gate pretty quickly. You have to park on the side, go to the office to fill out paperwork (bring passports, car registration number... and for those of us who are a bit older, glasses 😏 help with the forms). Then, we get back in the car, and the ranger asks if we have "any weapons or drones."

I wanted to buy a park map, but "no no no," I have to find a shop in one of the camps, from what I understand.

We head toward Berg-en-Dal (where we were supposed to sleep the night before). The weather is overcast, I’m a bit disappointed, but as soon as we pass the Malelane gate, it’s a festival...

We spot herds of impalas, wildebeests, warthogs, giraffes, zebras, antelopes, and in the distance, rhinos.



What I didn’t know at that moment was that we wouldn’t see any more rhinos... And that rhinos are part of the Big Five (but hey, we still saw them, phew!).

We arrive at Berg-en-Dal: it seems neat, all in bricks.

The little shop is pretty big: we find the holy grail—a French animal guidebook for the park. It’s really well done, with maps of the roads and trails, and plates showing the animals. The kids can check off each species they see. The cost is minimal.

Look: a beautiful owl!

Navigating the park is easy: there are signs at every intersection. There aren’t too many people... We have a picnic at the Skukuza area: there are picnic tables, braai spots, a nice pool. The entrance to this area is guarded. They rush us a bit because it closes at 3:00 PM! (old habits die hard). We hit the road again toward our camp: Lower Sabie.



We come across beautiful birds, baboons, giraffes, elephants. In short: in the end, this is the area where we saw the most animals. I thought it would be like this the whole time—wrong.

A gorgeous hyena: one of my favorite animals. Its reputation isn’t deserved—some people even domesticate them! Really want to bring one home!



A mother... or a baboon nanny. Time flies: we head back, excited, to our first camp: Lower Sabie. I initially wanted to book 2 nights at this well-known camp, but by September, everything was already full for a family of 4. So I could only get a family cottage for 4 at 160 €, with perimeter view. Before the trip, I often checked traveler reviews on Tripad****. I’d read some complaints about odor issues in the cottages due to bat droppings, but I downplayed it—big mistake. We pick up our keys and head to our cottage: FU4V. As we approach, we feel our throats tighten from the unbearable smell. The thatched roof is damaged. There’s baboon droppings on our braai area in front of the cottage. We open the veranda door—it’s worse, unbearable. Indescribable. A huge disappointment!! Same thing in both bedrooms. We won’t be eating there. We rush to the shop to buy air freshener, but all we find is a mosquito-repellent candle and a spray... which are completely useless.

We head to the restaurant: the Mug and Bean. It’s gorgeous, with a wooden terrace overlooking the river. We hurry because night is falling, and soon we won’t see anything. The menu is varied, service is quick, prices are reasonable. And there’s a bit of Wi-Fi. We have a good time, but we have to go back to that awful lodge. I feel like throwing up when we return. We empty the spray... lock ourselves in our rooms, afraid the bats in the veranda might come in.

I barely slept (I almost died of fear or suffocated under the sheets, not sure which) 🏴‍☠️. I heard bat screeches at night—maybe they were in the room... I hesitated several times to sleep in the car.

I expected a basic lodge, but not *this* bad. And yet, I’ve camped in the mountains before.

I found the camp poorly maintained, almost abandoned (except for the restaurant area). Maybe other cottages are better? Maybe we just got unlucky? In my opinion, this one shouldn’t have been rentable. And it’s hard to complain when everything’s fully booked.

I just hope the other camps will be completely different. 😮

and I forgot that because of the aggressive baboons: impossible to open the French doors of the cottage to air it out😕

Really tough luck on your trip! Last time I was there, I noticed a lack of maintenance, but no smell issues at all! Aren’t those vervet monkeys, though?

At night they sleep—were there no mosquito nets on the windows? That would’ve helped with ventilation.

Yes, sorry, you're right—vervets for the monkeys. I just remembered the signs in the park saying "we have a problem with baboon" (at least they're aware of it—that's something!) We didn’t think about the windows; we didn’t dare touch anything—everything was so run-down....

Saturday, 02.29

The day before, we’d asked the kids if they wanted to join us for a morning drive to see the animals... they looked horrified when we announced a 5:30 AM departure. "In the morning?" "Uh, ..." ...."Well, forget it, stay in bed" 🤪. Then again, given the smell, you’d have to be *really* motivated to disturb anyone in the family cottage. "The smell will protect my kids from troublemakers," I told myself😛 We set the alarm, and after a night with the bats, I was happy to get back to the car. We left the camp and just drove around the tracks and roads—we didn’t want to go too far so we wouldn’t leave the kids alone for too long.

As soon as we left the park, it was a festival. All the animals must’ve had a meet-up: in just an hour, we saw a Kruger highlight reel that we *loved*.



Giraffe, hippo, kudu... We’d seen alligators in Florida, but compared to these, those were just babies!!

I took my favorite position: like my dog when we go hiking—head out the open window, ears in the wind, in "I’m scanning everything that moves" mode. Then suddenly: "To the left," I said. A few cars had gathered—a sign.



See it in the tree? A leopard having its breakfast. So here’s the recipe: catch the impala, haul it up the tree to keep it from getting stolen, wedge the haunch between two branches, then enjoy... Bon appétit.



A quick lick to clean its chops...



Then settle in for digestion mode...

We were completely blown away by this encounter—it made us forget all about the run-down family cottage. I never get tired of watching this magnificent animal—it’s regal, magical. There were about 8 cars, and each one managed to position themselves so everyone could see the "stuffed animal" without bothering the others.

We had to reluctantly leave our observation spot to get back to the kids, since time was ticking and it’d take us a good 30 minutes to return to camp.

What a beautiful observation! Too bad for the kids, but you’ve gotta keep them moving too

Yes, so lucky to have seen that leopard, it was gorgeous! 😍 I don’t remember any bats at Lower Sabie, and I don’t have bad memories of that camp either 😕.

Actually, I’d read that it was one of the best camps, so I had a pit in my stomach thinking, "well, the rest is gonna be worse 😱"....

Mostly one of the best in terms of its location in an area with lots of big cats! I stayed there once and found the accommodations average. But nothing like yours.

The rest will be better, I'm sure

Well, Régis... 🤪... how can I put it... don’t be so sure! We had some ups and downs, as we’ll see later.

So we go back to wake the kids up. "Do you know what we saw?" "No?" "A leopard! "No way!" "Yes, yes, we told you so... ... ..." and boom, I shove the photos right under their noses.

Breakfast, then a quick stroll on the gorgeous terrace at Mug & Bean before hitting the road.

We glance at the sightings board to decide which route we’ll take, and off we go toward Phaebeni Gate since we’re leaving tonight.



What a pose, Madame Giraffe (I followed Michel’s lessons—hairy horns 😛)

"We're slowly making progress toward the Big Five," we tell the kids. We're still missing the lion... and for them, the leopard too 😛

We also spot quite a few birds we’ve never seen before. And as soon as we come across a large enough body of water, the hippos show up—it’s a win every time! -The family: "Okay, should we go?" Me: "No, five more minutes." I love their pinkish-gray color—I never get tired of watching them move in the water.



We stop for lunch at Skuzuka: there’s a quick snack spot between the restaurant and the convenience store. It cost us about 15 €.





Too late for a well-framed photo of the jackal, but it was definitely there! I love them too 🙂



Then we continue our journey toward Hazyview. The weather’s gloomy—no sun, but it’s relatively warm. We originally planned to go at Easter like every year, but with Mathias’s baccalaureate and Caroline’s middle-school exams, we decided to leave in February so they’d have plenty of time to study during spring break. (We mostly figured that if they failed, they’d blame us for not being able to study because of the trip!). So we took the risk of traveling during the so-called rainy season, and in the end, no rain, but not much sun during this early part of Kruger. Looking back, we made the right call because in April, we never could’ve gone—lockdown made it impossible. (Who knew that thinking about our kids’ future would bring us luck? 😇)

For tonight, I booked a chalet at a vacation center, but there’s no shop or restaurant. So we head to the supermarket for dinner supplies and breakfast.

We search for "Pick n Pay" on our smartphones and find the shopping center. We enter from the back and stumble upon an open-air market where vegetables, fabrics, and hygiene products are sold on tarps spread out on the ground... We look at each other—it’s weird. We realize they weren’t really expecting us at this entrance, but rather on the other side 🤪. After going around, we find the other entrance to the shopping center, with a "classic" parking lot (and there’s the tip for the attendant). Either way, the music’s blasting! The parking attendant’s dancing—everyone’s in a great mood. For my part, I’m exhausted (I’m paying for my fear of bats and the 4:30 AM wake-up 😛).

My daughter buys a super girly cake slice for her breakfast—at least four layers with cream in all colors. It turns out to be really good for a bargain price.

We leave town, take a gravel road, and after 10 minutes, we arrive at the First Group Waterhill hotel. http://www.waterberryhill.co.za/Pages/default.aspx

Booked on bo*** for 58 €. Each chalet is divided into two apartments. I’d opted for a 90 m² unit with a living room and two bedrooms. At check-in, bam—we get an upgrade, and now we’re in a 160 m² place with no neighbors. The accommodation is great: two bedrooms with a huge bed for us, twin beds for the kids, two large bathrooms, a terrace, a big living room, an equipped kitchen, and a jacuzzi (though we don’t have time to use it—it takes three hours to heat up). And best of all, it smells good because it doesn’t smell like anything 😊.

It’s a vacation center with tennis, a pool, a kids’ club, mini-golf, bike rentals... There are animals in the park, and the view is stunning. There are South Africans here for the weekend—it’s a great spot for families or for spending a few days. The value for money is excellent. Everything’s super secure, with a guard at the entrance... I’m already asleep 🙂

Sunday, March 1st.

Today's plan: Blyde Canyon. Breakfast (remember that super girly cake for Caroline), and we reluctantly leave this huge chalet. I also regret not being able to enjoy the pool. The weather is overcast. Grrr! That won't help my photos.

Heading to Graskop, which we reach quickly. I had read in the Michelin Green Guide that "the town looks like a Wild West village with its houses lined up along three main streets"... Well, 😕 I don't know where those guys (sorry, it can only be guys) from Michelin got that idea.

The town has a few very colorful shops. We take the opportunity to fill up on gas. I don't regret stopping in Hazyview after all. We're at 1,500 meters altitude. You wouldn't think so!

We head toward the Panoramic Road. We start with God’s Window. We pay at the entrance, not per car (thanks, Michelin), but per person. Toilets in the parking lot, and two or three souvenir stalls. .

We begin the walk, which gently climbs through the tropical forest.



"We have to climb? On foot?" "Yep, 97 steps." "Ughhh!" "Grrrrr." Nice walk, but crowded—it *is* Sunday, after all! The viewpoint itself isn’t mind-blowing, but the boardwalk stroll is worth it. We cross paths on the narrow trail: "tkank you" "thank you."

We’ll meet more South African tourists than others all day. And one last one...

Back to the car, then we head to Lisbon Falls. The landscapes along the way remind us of Les Bauges, back home. We’re not too out of place, but we enjoy the vast high-altitude expanses. With sunshine, the scenery must be completely different😕



Again, we pay the entrance fee, again toilets in the parking lot if needed, and again the little stalls. There’s just one viewpoint for the beautiful waterfalls. We hurry to enjoy the scenery before a tourist bus arrives.



I love waterfalls

Time’s flying. And for those with bottomless stomachs, a nice surprise. The restaurant by the river, "Potluck Boskombuis." It’s on the right as you go up the Panoramic Road toward the north.

For parking, a young man immediately tells us his rate: 10 rand. Either way, we don’t have much choice.

We walk in and are greeted by a dance from pretty young girls all in pink. It adds some color to this landscape... they’re so beautiful and smiley. A little coin for the girls and their mom or sister or neighbor playing the tam-tam nearby. Note that this little group is stationed at a strategic spot—it’s the bridge you *have* to cross to get to the restaurant.🙂



We were served quickly.

The food is cooked over a wood fire.



We’ll end up spending around 40 €.

The place is peaceful, with swings for the kids, and the toilets are something to see.

What’s this mess—the parking is paid now? 🤪

Otherwise, great restaurant!

We’re back in the car heading to Bourke's Luck Potholes. We pay the entrance fee—the site is huge with picnic tables. The South Africans are in the middle of a braai.



Such a shame because the colors aren’t what I’d hoped for. But we walk from one footbridge to another. There aren’t too many people, and the sight of the water is always mesmerizing.



We head to our last viewpoint: Three Rondavels. The local Horseshoe Bend!



We’re facing the third-largest canyon in the world.

Mathias gets roped into a photo session with a group of South African girlfriends 😉. Too funny...

All in all for the day: I think the sun would’ve added a bit more color to make these sites really shine.

These short hops along the road let us admire such varied landscapes.

In the end, the different sites cost us about 30 € for 4.

Still, we can’t help but think back to our trip to the American West last year—the Antelope Canyon, the Grand Canyon, Horseshoe Bend... and we find that Blyde Canyon doesn’t quite measure up to what we saw, even though we had a great day.



Time to head back to our accommodation on the way to Hoedspruit. I went for glamping. 🙂

I booked the tent for 80 €. It’s at a private couple’s place who live in a private reserve. The road is a bit longer than I thought, with a dirt track, but the owner warned us, and the SUV does the job.

We pay the fees to enter the reserve, and off we go.

There are two tents total, but they’re far enough apart that we can’t see each other. We’re along the Olifants River. The couple lives just above.



The tent is super clean. A big bed with soft percale sheets, and two extra beds for the kids. There’s a fridge, a fan, and mosquito nets.

A bathroom, toilet, and an outdoor shower. I love it! 🙂







The owner who welcomes us says, “Be careful of scorpions and snakes.” “Really?” I keep smiling, but I’m not feeling great about it. My husband and I explain to the teens that they need to keep their shoes on and never walk barefoot... “Why?” the teens ask. “Because, well...” “What!!! That’s all we needed! We already HATE camping.”

Man, I’m the only one who likes this place. They’re cursing me!!

Mathias says, “I’d rather not say anything.” Caroline rolls her eyes and barely talks to me. Didier doesn’t care—he adapts anywhere. Good thing, because he’s in charge of the braai.

I thought I was doing this for them (well, mostly for me 😛), but it’s kind of a fail. I tell them that even the next places won’t be much better... that’s the final blow. I ordered a braai pack from the owner.



Two huge, succulent beef ribs, a mixed salad, and garlic bread. We quickly buy a bottle of wine for the apéro (phew, they have some 😛), and Didier gets the coals going with Mathias. Meanwhile, I relax by the river and its gentle murmur, enjoying this peaceful hour. There’s a book in the tent explaining what to do in case of a scorpion sting 😕... but also the animals you can see in the area. The owner’s husband organizes safaris.

There’s a summer kitchen with a sink, and in the middle, a nice braai. All the dishes are provided in a plastic crate.

Mathias, helping his dad, removes some leaves from the sink... and puts his hand on a scorpion. Luckily, he quickly pulls his hand back, and Didier gets rid of the critter. Phew!!

So, we close the tent to keep any others from getting in.

We enjoy the meal, though we eat a bit late because night falls so quickly. The teens admit the food is better (and better than in the US!). Apparently, the site is known for seeing the Milky Way, but all I see are clouds 😕. We head to bed: Caroline wants her bed right next to ours. We tuck in the mosquito net well. It’s crazy how loud the river is, and the sounds of the animals... we’re really in the heart of Africa. 🙂

I love this kind of accommodation 🙂.

Re too bad the colors aren’t what I’d hoped for

For sure, a little sunshine makes all the difference! It’s tough in this country to find a season that combines good weather in both the north and south 🤪. Muriel

Well, thanks Muriel! 🙂 Yeah, it's awesome! It's just that the kids don’t see it that way😛. For Kruger, for 4 people, there were no tents available, so only hard-sided bungalows, and the camping vibe changes a bit. This tent was especially clean, spacious, and comfortable. Anyway, I LOVED it. But it’s tough when the fun isn’t shared by the whole family

For the weather, yeah, the country’s huge, and it’s hard to have it all. But as long as there wasn’t any rain, it was still enjoyable. What a surprise to come across those whole pine forests, those high-altitude plateaus with cows and their bells...

Yeah, Régis, the parking and crossing the bridge .😛 but it’s all part of the game... it’s just that since we often pay by card, you always have to make sure you’ve got some cash on you!

I think they were there for the high season, and I’m not sure the owners allow it!