Hi everyone! I’ve put together an itinerary for Madagascar and would love to get your feedback if you can help—thanks!
December 6–9: Antananarivo
3 nights, sightseeing
Andasibe-Mantadia National Park
Rova of Antananarivo (Ambohimanga Fort)
Lemurs’ Park
December 9–11: Fianarantsoa, 2 nights
Ranomafana National Park
Ambalavao, December 11–13, 2 nights
Andringitra National Park
December 13–15: Ranohira or Ilakaka, 2 nights
Monkey Canyon visit
Isalo National Park
December 15–18: Tulear, 3 nights
Reniala Reserve visit
Beach time, possible diving
Antsokay Arboretum
Ifaty Forest
December 18–19: Full day—take a flight to the capital and stay overnight
Then on December 19, take the bus to Morondava
December 19–23: Morondava, 4 nights
Kirindy Mitea National Park
Avenue of the Baobabs
Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park
12:30-hour bus ride from Morondava to the capital
Antananarivo, December 23–24
11:30-hour trip from the capital to Mahajanga
Mahajanga/Majunga, December 24–27, 3 nights
Ankarafantsika National Park visit
Ambanja District, 3 nights
December 27–30
Tsaratanana Nature Reserve visit
Maromokotro trek
Nosy Be Island, December 30–January 7, 2026, 8 nights
diving, beach time, relaxation, walks, hiking, snorkeling
Antsiranana, January 7–11, 4 nights
Ambavanibe Bay visit
Montagne d’Ambre National Park
Return to the capital for a flight home or a 28-hour bus ride
1 or 2 nights in Antananarivo depending on the return trip
January 13: Departure for France
Arrival in Paris, France the next day
40 similar discussions in English
Hello,
After asking questions on the site, here’s a little feedback on our trip in March and April.
Marseille/Antananarivo flight with Ethiopian Airlines was great both ways. I’d recommend it.
Domestic flights with Madagascar Airlines were just as smooth.
We had to change our plans because I was the victim of a snatch-theft attempt at Ivato... patellar fracture... so I ended up with a brace and more rest than hikes.
This let us spend more time in the same areas and make some connections.
We loved Tulear. Stayed with Alain—excellent value for money.
Mangily, where we stayed for 15 days. Hotel Bella Dona due to my little handicap. The pool replaced sea swims.
Mangily gets a bad rap for being very touristy. True, you get approached a lot on the beach—you have to play along and buy some trinkets, but after that, you get royal peace and lots of exchanges with locals. The village and its lively street are nice too. Don’t hesitate to eat with fishermen or at local bars.
Anakao, a big favorite. Just the journey there is worth it. Watching dozens of pirogues set off between 5 and 6 AM is a magical moment.
Stayed at Peter Pan’s place. Lots of chats with Dario since we were the only guests.
Planned a 4-day Antananarivo–Soniara–Ivango road trip with a driver.
Cut to 2 days because the boat to Sainte Marie was moved up due to weather. I don’t remember the company’s name, but it wasn’t great for safety—plus, we brought back fleas.
Visited Andasibe Park along the way. Quick tip: go in the morning.
A little over 2 weeks on Sainte Marie at Hôtel Mantis Soanambo—total luxury negotiated at a price that defied all competition because it was low season.
Meals were at little local eateries nearby.
We chose not to sleep on Île aux Nattes but went there several times during the day (crossing: 4000 ariary for 2).
You have to take a pirogue tour—it’s like stepping into a postcard.
Sainte Marie is a special place. A tropical island that feels like the Caribbean ones we’ve lived on. No security issues at all. We rented a scooter because we found tuk-tuk prices a bit steep. You can leave the scooter with helmet and keys and come back 4 hours later.
More amazing encounters here too.
Last part of our trip in Ampefy, a beautiful volcanic region with a very welcoming population.
Stayed with a friend of our driver.
Hotels in Ivato are plentiful and vary a lot in quality.
Les 12 Collines is a bit out of the way but only 21 € per night.
La Chato... very expensive for what you get.
I tried to keep it short.
Madagascar is a wonderful island with so many facets. Always so many emotions when I think back on this trip.
The extreme poverty... don’t hesitate to buy food for the kids on the beach, for example. It doesn’t cost much, but it means a lot to them.
The kindness of the people and, above all, those SMILES.
We’re hooked—we’re going back in November for 6 months... because yes, you can buy a 3-month visa at the airport (a question I’d asked), and you can extend it for another 3 months... if you apply in time at a police station.
We didn’t take Malarone either. We’d brought some, but there were few mosquitoes, and "Insect Écran" worked really well.
Hi there, following a work trip, I’ll have 4.5 days left to get a quick overview of Madagascar during the last week of February. I’ll already have had a good look around Tana (3 days of work and 1.5 days beforehand to see 1 or 2 points of interest 2-3 hours from Tana).
Is it feasible to spend the remaining 4.5 days like this:
- Day 1 & 2 (and maybe the morning of Day 3): relaxing on a coast with a pleasant climate, for example, a one-way flight to Tuléar (there’s a flight on Day 1 at 3 AM) and heading to a nice beach. Ideally, I’d have liked to go toward Morondava (baobabs, beautiful beaches near Belo), but the flight schedules don’t really work, and it wouldn’t let me visit Isalo.
- Then 2 days to head back up via the RN7, ideally with a stop in Isalo, which really appeals to me (I’m an experienced hiker in France), and/or Ranomafana. But do the weather conditions allow for long hikes in that area? Ideally, I’d like to do Tuléar–Tana by public transport up to my first road stop (shared bus? To Isalo?), then find a local hiking guide for the day. And take another transport to another point of interest before returning to Tana, where I have my return flight to France on Day 5 at noon.
My questions: - How to travel from Day 3 to Day 5 from the west coast (Tuléar? Morondava?) back to Tana? I’d prefer not to depend on a guide the whole way, but if I have to 🤷🏽♂️) If I choose Morondava, will I miss out on really interesting spots I could’ve seen along the RN7?
I’m open to any suggestions or ideas to make the most of these 4.5 days, like another beach destination I might not have considered (I ruled out Nosy Bé because of the February weather—maybe I was wrong?)
Is it feasible to spend the remaining 4.5 days like this:
- Day 1 & 2 (and maybe the morning of Day 3): relaxing on a coast with a pleasant climate, for example, a one-way flight to Tuléar (there’s a flight on Day 1 at 3 AM) and heading to a nice beach. Ideally, I’d have liked to go toward Morondava (baobabs, beautiful beaches near Belo), but the flight schedules don’t really work, and it wouldn’t let me visit Isalo.
- Then 2 days to head back up via the RN7, ideally with a stop in Isalo, which really appeals to me (I’m an experienced hiker in France), and/or Ranomafana. But do the weather conditions allow for long hikes in that area? Ideally, I’d like to do Tuléar–Tana by public transport up to my first road stop (shared bus? To Isalo?), then find a local hiking guide for the day. And take another transport to another point of interest before returning to Tana, where I have my return flight to France on Day 5 at noon.
My questions: - How to travel from Day 3 to Day 5 from the west coast (Tuléar? Morondava?) back to Tana? I’d prefer not to depend on a guide the whole way, but if I have to 🤷🏽♂️) If I choose Morondava, will I miss out on really interesting spots I could’ve seen along the RN7?
I’m open to any suggestions or ideas to make the most of these 4.5 days, like another beach destination I might not have considered (I ruled out Nosy Bé because of the February weather—maybe I was wrong?)
Hi everyone,
I noticed the forum could use more recommendations for visiting Madagascar, so I thought I’d share my experience.
I arrived on the Big Island last March. I moved there as part of a contract with a friend who started a tech business. A quick note about Madagascar: this country is full of talent. The young people are incredibly ambitious, dynamic, and creative.
After visiting some of the more well-known tourist spots like Mahajanga (Majunga) and Toamasina (Tamatave), the place that really stood out to me was Morondava, in the southwest of the island.
To get there, we left Tananarive (Antananarivo) in the evening, heading to Antsirabe, where we spent the night. By the way, Antsirabe is worth lingering in—it’s a charming town with lots of pleasant spots, and you’ll often run into French travelers there.
The next day, we left at 4:00 AM for Morondava. Our goal was to arrive around 3:00 PM, driving at a relaxed pace to enjoy the scenery. We stopped in Miandrivazo for lunch—there, the tilapia and grilled prawns are a must.
Before Miandrivazo, the road isn’t great (like many roads in Madagascar, unfortunately), but the stunning landscapes more than make up for it. The vegetation, typical of African savannas, is fascinating. However, bushfires—unfortunately common on the island—leave visible scars on the scenery.
About 50 kilometers from Morondava, near Mahabo, the magic begins: majestic baobabs line the road, and the sunset turns this scene into a real postcard. It’s a moment I’ll never forget.
Once there, we stayed near Nosy Kely. It was very hot, but the warmth of the locals, the Sakalava, and their incredible culinary skills quickly made us forget the heat. The seafood and fish are prepared with impressive mastery… so good!
I’d love to recommend some great spots, but I’d rather not accidentally promote anything here. What I *can* say is that Morondava is absolutely worth the detour, if only for its unique atmosphere and breathtaking landscapes.
The next day, we set off to explore the famous Avenue of the Baobabs. This place is simply mind-blowing, one of a kind. As the name suggests, it’s an avenue lined with giant baobabs, with a dusty red-dirt road running through the middle. The whole scene has an almost mystical vibe.
We were planning to visit the Tsingy de Bemaraha on the fly, but it turned out to be too ambitious. According to our guide, we would’ve had to cross two rivers, at Belo and Bekopaka, which would’ve taken a lot more time. That’ll definitely be my next big adventure in Madagascar.
If you get the chance, I’d recommend going even farther than the Avenue of the Baobabs—about two hours by road. There, you can catch a glimpse of a real baobab forest in the distance. Some friends in another car were lucky enough to go, and their stories made me dream. They experienced a magical moment, one of those things you have to see to believe.
I’m no travel journal expert, but I hope this little glimpse inspires you to discover this little slice of paradise in Madagascar.
I noticed the forum could use more recommendations for visiting Madagascar, so I thought I’d share my experience.
I arrived on the Big Island last March. I moved there as part of a contract with a friend who started a tech business. A quick note about Madagascar: this country is full of talent. The young people are incredibly ambitious, dynamic, and creative.
After visiting some of the more well-known tourist spots like Mahajanga (Majunga) and Toamasina (Tamatave), the place that really stood out to me was Morondava, in the southwest of the island.
To get there, we left Tananarive (Antananarivo) in the evening, heading to Antsirabe, where we spent the night. By the way, Antsirabe is worth lingering in—it’s a charming town with lots of pleasant spots, and you’ll often run into French travelers there.
The next day, we left at 4:00 AM for Morondava. Our goal was to arrive around 3:00 PM, driving at a relaxed pace to enjoy the scenery. We stopped in Miandrivazo for lunch—there, the tilapia and grilled prawns are a must.
Before Miandrivazo, the road isn’t great (like many roads in Madagascar, unfortunately), but the stunning landscapes more than make up for it. The vegetation, typical of African savannas, is fascinating. However, bushfires—unfortunately common on the island—leave visible scars on the scenery.
About 50 kilometers from Morondava, near Mahabo, the magic begins: majestic baobabs line the road, and the sunset turns this scene into a real postcard. It’s a moment I’ll never forget.
Once there, we stayed near Nosy Kely. It was very hot, but the warmth of the locals, the Sakalava, and their incredible culinary skills quickly made us forget the heat. The seafood and fish are prepared with impressive mastery… so good!
I’d love to recommend some great spots, but I’d rather not accidentally promote anything here. What I *can* say is that Morondava is absolutely worth the detour, if only for its unique atmosphere and breathtaking landscapes.
The next day, we set off to explore the famous Avenue of the Baobabs. This place is simply mind-blowing, one of a kind. As the name suggests, it’s an avenue lined with giant baobabs, with a dusty red-dirt road running through the middle. The whole scene has an almost mystical vibe.
We were planning to visit the Tsingy de Bemaraha on the fly, but it turned out to be too ambitious. According to our guide, we would’ve had to cross two rivers, at Belo and Bekopaka, which would’ve taken a lot more time. That’ll definitely be my next big adventure in Madagascar.
If you get the chance, I’d recommend going even farther than the Avenue of the Baobabs—about two hours by road. There, you can catch a glimpse of a real baobab forest in the distance. Some friends in another car were lucky enough to go, and their stories made me dream. They experienced a magical moment, one of those things you have to see to believe.
I’m no travel journal expert, but I hope this little glimpse inspires you to discover this little slice of paradise in Madagascar.
hey everyone,
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
Thanks in advance, Jérôme
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
Thanks in advance, Jérôme
Hi everyone, I’m heading to Madagascar in December 2025 and I’d like to know the one-way fare without checked baggage—just cabin luggage—from Tamatave/Toamasina to Saint-Denis on Réunion Island, please. Also, how many days a week are there connections, and how long does the trip take? Thanks!
I’d also like to know about the route between Réunion Island and Mauritius: where does it depart from, how much does it cost, and on which days are there connections? Thanks in advance!
Best regards,
I’d also like to know about the route between Réunion Island and Mauritius: where does it depart from, how much does it cost, and on which days are there connections? Thanks in advance!
Best regards,
Hi everyone, I’d like to know if it’s possible to travel only by taxi in Madagascar? ...
My friend and I are going. Our trip starts in Antananarivo and goes to Antalaha. We’ll be heading up the east coast.
Are taxi stations available in every city? Do we need to book in advance?
Or would you recommend renting a car locally instead? ...
We really need some help and hope you can give us advice soon ...
Thanks ...
We really need some help and hope you can give us advice soon ...
Thanks ...
Hi there,
We’ve just returned from 2 weeks in Madagascar, and I wanted to share our experience since we struggled quite a bit to plan our itinerary before leaving. The country is huge, the journeys are long, and with only two weeks, you really have to make choices.
For our part, we opted for a fairly realistic itinerary for a first-time visit: Antananarivo, Andasibe, Île aux Nattes, and then Sainte-Marie. The idea was to mix a bit of nature, lemurs, tropical forest, and then a few quieter days by the water—without trying to cross the entire country.
In Andasibe, we spent several days between the Analamazaotra Reserve and Mantadia Park. We were able to spot lemurs, especially the indris, went on a night walk to see chameleons, geckos, and other small animals, and then did a wilder hike in Mantadia. This was probably the stop that felt the most exotic to us, with that humid forest atmosphere, animal sounds, and dense vegetation.
After Andasibe, we headed back to Antananarivo to catch a flight to Sainte-Marie, then took a boat to Île aux Nattes. It’s a tiny car-free island where you get around on foot between beaches, sandy paths, villages, and coconut trees. We mostly slowed down the pace: walking around the island, snorkeling in front of the hotel, meals at Fafana and Coco Sud, swimming, and much simpler moments. It was one of our absolute highlights of the trip.
We wrapped up with a few days in Sainte-Marie, in a more comfortable setting. The island is larger and more developed than Île aux Nattes, with more accommodations and activities. For us, it was mostly about relaxing, enjoying the pool, biking, paddleboarding, snorkeling, and a few short walks. Looking back, we might’ve spent a little less time in Sainte-Marie and a bit more on Île aux Nattes, which left a bigger impression on us.
I’ve tried to break down our itinerary day by day, including travel times, budget, accommodations, transportation, our thoughts on each stop, the pros and cons, and what we’d change if we did it again. I also cover arriving in Antananarivo, the road to Andasibe, the domestic flight to Sainte-Marie, returning to Tana, and our airport experience—where it’s best to allow plenty of extra time. Here’s the link if it helps with your planning:
https://aventures-sans-mesaventure.com/madagascar-itineraire-pour-2-semaines-de-voyage/
In short, our main advice would be not to try to see everything in two weeks. Madagascar requires time, flexibility, and some breathing room. It’s better to pick fewer stops but really enjoy them.
In Andasibe, we spent several days between the Analamazaotra Reserve and Mantadia Park. We were able to spot lemurs, especially the indris, went on a night walk to see chameleons, geckos, and other small animals, and then did a wilder hike in Mantadia. This was probably the stop that felt the most exotic to us, with that humid forest atmosphere, animal sounds, and dense vegetation.
After Andasibe, we headed back to Antananarivo to catch a flight to Sainte-Marie, then took a boat to Île aux Nattes. It’s a tiny car-free island where you get around on foot between beaches, sandy paths, villages, and coconut trees. We mostly slowed down the pace: walking around the island, snorkeling in front of the hotel, meals at Fafana and Coco Sud, swimming, and much simpler moments. It was one of our absolute highlights of the trip.
We wrapped up with a few days in Sainte-Marie, in a more comfortable setting. The island is larger and more developed than Île aux Nattes, with more accommodations and activities. For us, it was mostly about relaxing, enjoying the pool, biking, paddleboarding, snorkeling, and a few short walks. Looking back, we might’ve spent a little less time in Sainte-Marie and a bit more on Île aux Nattes, which left a bigger impression on us.
I’ve tried to break down our itinerary day by day, including travel times, budget, accommodations, transportation, our thoughts on each stop, the pros and cons, and what we’d change if we did it again. I also cover arriving in Antananarivo, the road to Andasibe, the domestic flight to Sainte-Marie, returning to Tana, and our airport experience—where it’s best to allow plenty of extra time. Here’s the link if it helps with your planning:
https://aventures-sans-mesaventure.com/madagascar-itineraire-pour-2-semaines-de-voyage/
In short, our main advice would be not to try to see everything in two weeks. Madagascar requires time, flexibility, and some breathing room. It’s better to pick fewer stops but really enjoy them.
Hi there, we’re planning a trip to Nosy Be next summer and we’ve come across Neos Air, which offers direct flights from Rome and Milan. It looks really appealing, but how reliable are they, especially in terms of punctuality—particularly for evening departures?
I'm looking for anyone who knew the old Amporaha holiday camp (north of Nosy Be).
Hi there! 😊
We just got back from two weeks in Madagascar, and before we left, we had *so* many practical questions. Between the sometimes contradictory info online and the lack of recent updates on certain topics, it wasn’t always easy to know what to expect for a first trip there.
So, after returning, I put together an article with all the info I wish I’d had before heading to Madagascar—just concrete tips based on our experience there.
I cover: • Visa and arrival at Antananarivo airport • Currency exchange, withdrawals, and payments on the ground • Transportation and real travel times • Health and trip prep • SIM cards, budget, and general organization • Mistakes and little hassles you can easily avoid on your first trip
The goal was to create a practical, honest guide to help people planning their trip and avoid a few unpleasant surprises once they’re there! 😊
If this can help some of you: https://aventures-sans-mesaventure.com/preparatif-pour-un-voyage-a-madagascar/
Happy travels! !
So, after returning, I put together an article with all the info I wish I’d had before heading to Madagascar—just concrete tips based on our experience there.
I cover: • Visa and arrival at Antananarivo airport • Currency exchange, withdrawals, and payments on the ground • Transportation and real travel times • Health and trip prep • SIM cards, budget, and general organization • Mistakes and little hassles you can easily avoid on your first trip
The goal was to create a practical, honest guide to help people planning their trip and avoid a few unpleasant surprises once they’re there! 😊
If this can help some of you: https://aventures-sans-mesaventure.com/preparatif-pour-un-voyage-a-madagascar/
Happy travels! !
Hi everyone, I’m heading to Île aux Nattes in a few weeks and I’d like to know if euros are accepted in the island’s restaurants.
At the hotel where I’ll be staying, they take card payments, but for activities, I can’t find any reliable info.
Could anyone tell me the approximate cost in euros and/or ariary for a week (food outside the hotel) on the island for two people?
Also, has anyone ever exchanged money at the Paris Magenta exchange bureau? Thanks!
Also, has anyone ever exchanged money at the Paris Magenta exchange bureau? Thanks!
Hi, I'd like to know if anyone has done this route recently or has reliable info.
Does the track exist, and most importantly, is there sand (for biking)?
Any info is welcome.
Cheers,
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
Hello,
Our trip is taking shape.
We’re leaving on February 28th. We’ll start by flying to Tulear, then make our way up to Tana at a relaxed pace before catching another flight to Diego Suarez.
We’d love to end our stay on Sainte Marie Island.
Is there a way to make the trip by land? By sea?
Just to clarify, we’re not pressed for time.
Thanks!
Can you tell me how long (on average...) the Tana to Tamatave trip takes with local minibus transport?
Which reliable company do you recommend for booking?
Hi everyone, I’m stopping just giving advice on new topics to others and leading by example.
Here’s a quick recap of my Manakara–Fort Dauphin route via the ferry + 10 track (RN12). The road is changing: bridges are being built, some sections are being paved.
By bike, it’s doable, though some sandy stretches are still pretty tough if you’re as overloaded as I was... Left Manakara’s Hôtel Les Délices on the 11th with my pretty beat-up blue bike...
Evening of the 11th: Ivohipeno Hôtel La Source.
12th–15th: Farafangana’s must-visit Hôtel Concombre Masqué, bike prep. 16th: Vangaindrano—Hôtel Chez Huguette was full, so I went to Tropic Hôtel, which is nice even with plumbing issues. Did my shopping since it’s the last real town. 17th: Chez Flavienne—her real job is singer/dancer, and she has cute little bungalows before the village of... I never found it on GPS or maps. A bit basic but welcoming, with Flavienne taking great care of me. 18th: Manombondro—the "friends’ spot," yikes, avoid! The restaurant’s okay, but the room is really rough: sketchy shower, the room opens right onto the main road where all the 4x4s gather. Good for tips, but better to sleep elsewhere...
20th: Taking one of the many alternative tracks, I got lost and camped under my tent less than 5 km from Sandravinany. 21st: Sandravinany—first day at Mamie Louise’s, average hotel. Vesslasse, the manager, is great. 22nd: The next day, I went back to the fisherman’s cabin I’d thought was closed the day before—awesome! Perfect location with a lagoon view.
Vesslasse stops by regularly to offer his services—he knows everyone, is efficient, and super friendly. I treated myself to a few days of contemplative relaxation before taking a pirogue toward the coastal track on the morning of the 25th—big mistake! Hardly anyone around to ask for directions, so I got lost multiple times, did a bunch of backtracking, and dealt with a lot of sand... Check out this YouTube video: From Sandravinany to the Sand Track 25th: Maroroy—chez Louisette, can’t miss it: right after the ferry, by the water, super relaxing. By the water, super relaxing. 26th: Manantenina—the very nice (and for me, too expensive) bungalows of Jean-Philippe were full, so I stayed at Hôtel Le Bleu, small bungalows with a restaurant on the main road. 27th: Sainte Luce—I got a ride from a UNICEF 4x4, so I *had* to stay at Hôtel Vah’inn—expensive but right on the water, with a pool table and good food. 28th: Fort Dauphin—Hôtel Nepenthes: central (steep climb to get there!) but nice bungalows.
Fort Dauphin has plenty of very affordable hotels. After that, I headed back to Tulear in a shared 4x4 (Godzilla)—two pretty grueling days, but the driver was really nice.
You can find all the details of this adventure and many others in my book, but I’m not allowed to talk about it on the forum... Too bad. A video of this route That’s it—I’ll post about other tracks I did that same year in other threads. Have a great day!
By bike, it’s doable, though some sandy stretches are still pretty tough if you’re as overloaded as I was... Left Manakara’s Hôtel Les Délices on the 11th with my pretty beat-up blue bike...
Evening of the 11th: Ivohipeno Hôtel La Source.
12th–15th: Farafangana’s must-visit Hôtel Concombre Masqué, bike prep. 16th: Vangaindrano—Hôtel Chez Huguette was full, so I went to Tropic Hôtel, which is nice even with plumbing issues. Did my shopping since it’s the last real town. 17th: Chez Flavienne—her real job is singer/dancer, and she has cute little bungalows before the village of... I never found it on GPS or maps. A bit basic but welcoming, with Flavienne taking great care of me. 18th: Manombondro—the "friends’ spot," yikes, avoid! The restaurant’s okay, but the room is really rough: sketchy shower, the room opens right onto the main road where all the 4x4s gather. Good for tips, but better to sleep elsewhere...
20th: Taking one of the many alternative tracks, I got lost and camped under my tent less than 5 km from Sandravinany. 21st: Sandravinany—first day at Mamie Louise’s, average hotel. Vesslasse, the manager, is great. 22nd: The next day, I went back to the fisherman’s cabin I’d thought was closed the day before—awesome! Perfect location with a lagoon view.
Vesslasse stops by regularly to offer his services—he knows everyone, is efficient, and super friendly. I treated myself to a few days of contemplative relaxation before taking a pirogue toward the coastal track on the morning of the 25th—big mistake! Hardly anyone around to ask for directions, so I got lost multiple times, did a bunch of backtracking, and dealt with a lot of sand... Check out this YouTube video: From Sandravinany to the Sand Track 25th: Maroroy—chez Louisette, can’t miss it: right after the ferry, by the water, super relaxing. By the water, super relaxing. 26th: Manantenina—the very nice (and for me, too expensive) bungalows of Jean-Philippe were full, so I stayed at Hôtel Le Bleu, small bungalows with a restaurant on the main road. 27th: Sainte Luce—I got a ride from a UNICEF 4x4, so I *had* to stay at Hôtel Vah’inn—expensive but right on the water, with a pool table and good food. 28th: Fort Dauphin—Hôtel Nepenthes: central (steep climb to get there!) but nice bungalows.
Fort Dauphin has plenty of very affordable hotels. After that, I headed back to Tulear in a shared 4x4 (Godzilla)—two pretty grueling days, but the driver was really nice.
You can find all the details of this adventure and many others in my book, but I’m not allowed to talk about it on the forum... Too bad. A video of this route That’s it—I’ll post about other tracks I did that same year in other threads. Have a great day!
Hi there,
We’re thinking of doing the train journey from Fianarantsoa to Manakara again. Is the train still running? After that, we’re planning to go from Manakara to Fort Dauphin by 4x4. Thanks for any tips you can share!
Hi,
I’m taking the Cotisse bus soon to go to Antsohihy, so the route is Tana-Majunga with a stop at Antanambaza.
How long does it take to get to Antanambaza? Should I leave at 6:30 PM or 7:00 AM?
Considering I’ll probably need to find a hotel while waiting for a *taxi be* to Antsohihy, I’d rather not arrive in the middle of the night.
And since I’m asking—does anyone have a hotel recommendation in Antanambaza?
Also, can you find a seat on a *taxi be* mid-route?
Thanks! !
Thanks! !
Hi everyone,
I’m planning to explore the western part of Madagascar from May 1st to 5th, specifically to visit the Tsingy. I’ve heard different versions about the road conditions and access to the Tsingy during this time, so I’d love to hear from people who’ve actually made this trip during this time of year.
Have you traveled from Morondava → Tsingy between May 1st and 5th? Was the journey doable and safe? Did you have access to the Grands Tsingy, or just the Petits Tsingy?
Thanks so much for your feedback—it’ll really help me get a clearer picture! 😊 Also, if you have any recommendations for reliable and experienced driver-guides, I’d love to hear them. Thanks again!
Have you traveled from Morondava → Tsingy between May 1st and 5th? Was the journey doable and safe? Did you have access to the Grands Tsingy, or just the Petits Tsingy?
Thanks so much for your feedback—it’ll really help me get a clearer picture! 😊 Also, if you have any recommendations for reliable and experienced driver-guides, I’d love to hear them. Thanks again!
Hi there, I’m looking for info on whether it’s feasible to travel the Pangalanes Canal by boat from Toamasina to Manakara. I know the canal is poorly maintained with some sections that aren’t navigable. This is my 5th trip to Madagascar. Thanks for any tips!
Hi,
For my upcoming trip to Madagascar in November, I’d like to take a cruise on the Pangalanes Canal.
We’ve been offered a 3-day, 2-night trip between Mananjary and Mahanoro.
Has anyone done this? Are there too many hours on the boat?
Is it worth it?
They’re offering either a bivouac or a hotel—what do you think?
Thanks for your feedback.
hey everyone,
I’m planning a trip in July: I’d like to take a minibus from Tana to Mahajanga, then continue on to Antsohihy and Narinda Bay, take time to explore the area (Nosy Lava), and then head back down to Mahajanga if possible by boutre or, if not, by the track if it exists. Just to clarify, I’ve got a bike and all the time in the world.
Has anyone done this or have any info?
Thanks in advance!!
Hi there,
I’m planning a 22-day trip to Madagascar this July.
And I could really use some advice 😊
Here’s what I’m sure about: Spending a few days in Nosy Be so my daughter can complete her Open Water certification—so I’m thinking 4 or 5 days there. I think Diego Suarez, Montagne d’Ambre, and Ankarana would suit what we like to do and have the advantage of being close to Nosy Be.
Now, the parts I’m unsure about, especially because of travel times:
My daughters really want to see whales. Is it possible around Nosy Be, or is Sainte Marie *the* must-visit spot? And what’s the weather like at that time of year? If we choose Sainte Marie, maybe do the Pangalanes Canal? Or is the route from Diego to Sainte Marie via the Vanilla Road a must-do?
Another option could be exploring the east with the Tsiribihina River and the Avenue of the Baobabs in Morondava.
Thanks in advance for your tips!
And I could really use some advice 😊
Here’s what I’m sure about: Spending a few days in Nosy Be so my daughter can complete her Open Water certification—so I’m thinking 4 or 5 days there. I think Diego Suarez, Montagne d’Ambre, and Ankarana would suit what we like to do and have the advantage of being close to Nosy Be.
Now, the parts I’m unsure about, especially because of travel times:
My daughters really want to see whales. Is it possible around Nosy Be, or is Sainte Marie *the* must-visit spot? And what’s the weather like at that time of year? If we choose Sainte Marie, maybe do the Pangalanes Canal? Or is the route from Diego to Sainte Marie via the Vanilla Road a must-do?
Another option could be exploring the east with the Tsiribihina River and the Avenue of the Baobabs in Morondava.
Thanks in advance for your tips!
It’s been over 10 years since I last went to Madagascar. Back then, I flew Corsair from Paris.
I’m planning to go back in September 2025.
I’ve heard about Air Austral...
Air France: the issue is the flight arrives in the evening at Ivato.
What do you recommend?
Which airlines fly from Paris to Tana?
Thanks for the help!
Just back from a week on Nosy Boraha, better known as Île Sainte-Marie. Mostly on Île aux Nattes, actually, at the very south of the island—literally just a few hundred meters from Sainte-Marie’s airport. Far east of Madagascar, and if you keep going straight, you’ll hit Australia.
We flew in through that airport to avoid a long, rough road trip before and after Tamatave, plus a boat ride that could be short or long (boat time was inversely proportional to the bus ride to the port for the Sainte-Marie ferry). No issues with Tsaradia—departures and returns were on time, service was impeccable, and the ATR plane was smooth. Too bad the prices are so high. We managed a change due to a delayed Kenya Airways flight.
First, we stayed in the northern half, on the west coast of the island, at Natiora Green Lodge. The place is absolutely stunning—a little cove opening onto a small bay dotted with rocky outcrops under lush vegetation. The bungalows are practically on the beach, in a gorgeous, forested setting alive with birdsong. It’s the perfect spot for a pirate crew and just begs for daydreaming. No reef barrier, so it gets deep pretty quickly, but the rocks have healthy coral and plenty of small fish. Great snorkeling—we even saw a turtle. Really, really nice. The only downside is that it’s a bit far from the island’s center and kinda isolated, so eating anywhere but the hotel or going for a walk without a rental car or tuk-tuk is tricky. Not impossible, but harder than if you’re somewhere livelier.
Next, we moved to Île aux Nattes at Baboo Village, which overlooks the channel between Nosy Boraha and Nosy Nato. The bungalows are right on the water, nicely and simply decorated, with a restaurant and terrace right next door. You get to the hotel directly by pirogue from Sainte-Marie’s "embarcadère"—it takes 2-3 minutes, or a little longer if the motor’s acting up. The owner is super friendly and welcoming, with a relaxed, "family/friendly" vibe. There are often a few lemurs in the hotel’s park, adding life to the place, and the vegetation is beautiful once again. The path that circles the island starts right at the hotel entrance, making it easy to reach the island’s dock and the different beaches on the west, east, or even south. Several restaurants are within walking distance, and nothing’s far by pirogue anyway. You can also find the island’s "center" with a few small shops for basic supplies or a meal at a hotely. Since there’s no electricity on the island, the generator at the hotel runs from 6 PM to 10 PM, but you can charge your phone anytime by leaving it at reception. Kayaks are free to use and great for exploring—the whole island is doable, even if you’re not an expert. Just take your time. The upside of Île aux Nattes and Sainte-Marie’s east coast is the reef barrier and lagoon (unlike the west side), which means those gorgeous water colors, accessible coral, and shallow swimming spots. The only downside of Baboo for me, since I love snorkeling, is its location right on the channel. Personally, I prefer the south side of Île aux Nattes (near the Aurora) or the east side (like Kintana) for the lagoon views and easier snorkeling (though my wife didn’t agree). But as I said, those spots are still super easy to reach from Baboo. The west side’s okay, but I like it less—except for the view of Madagascar and the sunset. Again, totally subjective.
On Sainte-Marie, we didn’t try any restaurants other than Natiora’s. Not a ton of options, but it was fine. We weren’t fans of Chez Nono in Baie d’Ampanihy—overpriced for the tiny portions. Sure, the crab was good, but there was so little of it for the price. A bit of a rip-off, since crabs are everywhere and can’t cost much for Nono. On Île aux Nattes, there are plenty of little restaurants. We tried three—Chez Adelaide, La Buvette, and Coco Sud—and every time, we had fish or seafood, and it was always good and generous, with great achards. Prices were very reasonable.
Of course, we soaked up the time, the light, the beauty of the place, the sounds, the smells... just chilling in full *tranquillou billou* mode.
We also did some activities. Snorkeling—I’ll come back to it. In 2019, I thought it was a disaster, with no nice spots and really disappointing. This year, I jumped in everywhere I could and tested spots I’d spotted on Maps or during my last trip. And it was *really* good. Mostly on Île aux Nattes: the south side near the sacred islet, west in front of Kintana, west north of the channel (especially the sand islets), and on Sainte-Marie at Natiora’s rocks. Lots of healthy coral and plenty of fish typical of the area. If you’re into big fish, this isn’t the place, but if you love coral and little critters, it’s awesome. Snorkeling outside the reef was disappointing again, and diving was too. Unless you get lucky, it’s not worth it, in my opinion.
The tour of Île aux Nattes with a meal included was great—perfect for taking breaks whenever you find a pretty spot to snorkel or just relax on a nice beach.
A trip to the sand islets was also really fun. You can’t stay long because it gets super hot, and you’re at the mercy of the tides. There’s a good flock of terns that probably nest there. The coral reefs on the east side of the islet are gorgeous. Really, really nice. Plus, the islets themselves are just stunning.
We chose to go to Ampanihy via the lagoon, hugging the shore—it’s beautiful, with amazing colors, a wilder coastline than the west, and views of seaweed farms. It’s a long trip, though, and at Ampanihy, there’s a pretty beach (but there are tons elsewhere) and a nice mangrove. Maybe it’s better to go by road to the bay and take a boat to explore the lagoon and stop somewhere without going all the way to Ampanihy, saving yourself 2 hours of boat time round-trip. Once there, you can take a little pirogue tour to the beach and through the mangrove. The way we did it, the trip wasn’t essential. As I said, Chez Nono was disappointing—bring a picnic or try Chez Samson instead.
Of course, we visited the pirate cemetery, a place I love even though there’s not much left to see—just a few graves, unfortunately, and some vandalism. The site is still magical, though, and you can let your thoughts drift with La Buse and William Kidd, who passed through here.
We organized all our outings with Crépin, who runs two small boats with his brother. We met him totally by chance, but we don’t regret it. We could adjust the trips based on what we wanted—where to stop or which spot to visit next—and Crépin handled the meals. Prices were super affordable for a full day. I can share his number if you want. We didn’t try anyone else, but I’m sure there are other great operators—I just can’t compare or recommend.
Good prep for anyone looking for an alternative to Nosy Be. Way fewer activities, sure, but also way fewer people and a really nice vibe on Sainte-Marie in general, and Île aux Nattes in particular. The beaches are more beautiful than Nosy Be’s, and there’s a reef and lagoon (it *is* the pirate island, after all). And in whale season, well, the whales.
All in all, a great place to stay for a trip.
We flew in through that airport to avoid a long, rough road trip before and after Tamatave, plus a boat ride that could be short or long (boat time was inversely proportional to the bus ride to the port for the Sainte-Marie ferry). No issues with Tsaradia—departures and returns were on time, service was impeccable, and the ATR plane was smooth. Too bad the prices are so high. We managed a change due to a delayed Kenya Airways flight.
First, we stayed in the northern half, on the west coast of the island, at Natiora Green Lodge. The place is absolutely stunning—a little cove opening onto a small bay dotted with rocky outcrops under lush vegetation. The bungalows are practically on the beach, in a gorgeous, forested setting alive with birdsong. It’s the perfect spot for a pirate crew and just begs for daydreaming. No reef barrier, so it gets deep pretty quickly, but the rocks have healthy coral and plenty of small fish. Great snorkeling—we even saw a turtle. Really, really nice. The only downside is that it’s a bit far from the island’s center and kinda isolated, so eating anywhere but the hotel or going for a walk without a rental car or tuk-tuk is tricky. Not impossible, but harder than if you’re somewhere livelier.
Next, we moved to Île aux Nattes at Baboo Village, which overlooks the channel between Nosy Boraha and Nosy Nato. The bungalows are right on the water, nicely and simply decorated, with a restaurant and terrace right next door. You get to the hotel directly by pirogue from Sainte-Marie’s "embarcadère"—it takes 2-3 minutes, or a little longer if the motor’s acting up. The owner is super friendly and welcoming, with a relaxed, "family/friendly" vibe. There are often a few lemurs in the hotel’s park, adding life to the place, and the vegetation is beautiful once again. The path that circles the island starts right at the hotel entrance, making it easy to reach the island’s dock and the different beaches on the west, east, or even south. Several restaurants are within walking distance, and nothing’s far by pirogue anyway. You can also find the island’s "center" with a few small shops for basic supplies or a meal at a hotely. Since there’s no electricity on the island, the generator at the hotel runs from 6 PM to 10 PM, but you can charge your phone anytime by leaving it at reception. Kayaks are free to use and great for exploring—the whole island is doable, even if you’re not an expert. Just take your time. The upside of Île aux Nattes and Sainte-Marie’s east coast is the reef barrier and lagoon (unlike the west side), which means those gorgeous water colors, accessible coral, and shallow swimming spots. The only downside of Baboo for me, since I love snorkeling, is its location right on the channel. Personally, I prefer the south side of Île aux Nattes (near the Aurora) or the east side (like Kintana) for the lagoon views and easier snorkeling (though my wife didn’t agree). But as I said, those spots are still super easy to reach from Baboo. The west side’s okay, but I like it less—except for the view of Madagascar and the sunset. Again, totally subjective.
On Sainte-Marie, we didn’t try any restaurants other than Natiora’s. Not a ton of options, but it was fine. We weren’t fans of Chez Nono in Baie d’Ampanihy—overpriced for the tiny portions. Sure, the crab was good, but there was so little of it for the price. A bit of a rip-off, since crabs are everywhere and can’t cost much for Nono. On Île aux Nattes, there are plenty of little restaurants. We tried three—Chez Adelaide, La Buvette, and Coco Sud—and every time, we had fish or seafood, and it was always good and generous, with great achards. Prices were very reasonable.
Of course, we soaked up the time, the light, the beauty of the place, the sounds, the smells... just chilling in full *tranquillou billou* mode.
We also did some activities. Snorkeling—I’ll come back to it. In 2019, I thought it was a disaster, with no nice spots and really disappointing. This year, I jumped in everywhere I could and tested spots I’d spotted on Maps or during my last trip. And it was *really* good. Mostly on Île aux Nattes: the south side near the sacred islet, west in front of Kintana, west north of the channel (especially the sand islets), and on Sainte-Marie at Natiora’s rocks. Lots of healthy coral and plenty of fish typical of the area. If you’re into big fish, this isn’t the place, but if you love coral and little critters, it’s awesome. Snorkeling outside the reef was disappointing again, and diving was too. Unless you get lucky, it’s not worth it, in my opinion.
The tour of Île aux Nattes with a meal included was great—perfect for taking breaks whenever you find a pretty spot to snorkel or just relax on a nice beach.
A trip to the sand islets was also really fun. You can’t stay long because it gets super hot, and you’re at the mercy of the tides. There’s a good flock of terns that probably nest there. The coral reefs on the east side of the islet are gorgeous. Really, really nice. Plus, the islets themselves are just stunning.
We chose to go to Ampanihy via the lagoon, hugging the shore—it’s beautiful, with amazing colors, a wilder coastline than the west, and views of seaweed farms. It’s a long trip, though, and at Ampanihy, there’s a pretty beach (but there are tons elsewhere) and a nice mangrove. Maybe it’s better to go by road to the bay and take a boat to explore the lagoon and stop somewhere without going all the way to Ampanihy, saving yourself 2 hours of boat time round-trip. Once there, you can take a little pirogue tour to the beach and through the mangrove. The way we did it, the trip wasn’t essential. As I said, Chez Nono was disappointing—bring a picnic or try Chez Samson instead.
Of course, we visited the pirate cemetery, a place I love even though there’s not much left to see—just a few graves, unfortunately, and some vandalism. The site is still magical, though, and you can let your thoughts drift with La Buse and William Kidd, who passed through here.
We organized all our outings with Crépin, who runs two small boats with his brother. We met him totally by chance, but we don’t regret it. We could adjust the trips based on what we wanted—where to stop or which spot to visit next—and Crépin handled the meals. Prices were super affordable for a full day. I can share his number if you want. We didn’t try anyone else, but I’m sure there are other great operators—I just can’t compare or recommend.
Good prep for anyone looking for an alternative to Nosy Be. Way fewer activities, sure, but also way fewer people and a really nice vibe on Sainte-Marie in general, and Île aux Nattes in particular. The beaches are more beautiful than Nosy Be’s, and there’s a reef and lagoon (it *is* the pirate island, after all). And in whale season, well, the whales.
All in all, a great place to stay for a trip.
First trip to Madagascar (couple + 2 older teens). We’ve read quite a few posts and watched traveler videos, which helped us figure out what we could do in 3 weeks. We’d like to travel with a driver-guide. You’ll probably be able to help us with the overall duration... Are we being too ambitious, or is this reasonable? In this itinerary, are there any must-see places we shouldn’t miss?
Here’s our first draft:
Departure from Tana to the east via the RN2. Stop at the Analamazoatra Reserve RN11 to reach the Pangalanes Canal 3 or 4 days to travel south along the canal (taxi boat) The train from Manakara to Fiana RN7 toward Tulear Time for a short trek in Andringitra? I’m not sure... Isalo Park From Tulear, head north or south by pirogue to relax somewhere To get back to Tana and stay within our vacation time, I think we’ll need to fly... Will we have time left for Ampefy?
What do you think?
Departure from Tana to the east via the RN2. Stop at the Analamazoatra Reserve RN11 to reach the Pangalanes Canal 3 or 4 days to travel south along the canal (taxi boat) The train from Manakara to Fiana RN7 toward Tulear Time for a short trek in Andringitra? I’m not sure... Isalo Park From Tulear, head north or south by pirogue to relax somewhere To get back to Tana and stay within our vacation time, I think we’ll need to fly... Will we have time left for Ampefy?
What do you think?
Hi everyone.
We’ve just returned from a trip with our 8- and 12-year-old sons, our eyes full of memories. We went to Analalava, a village that’s hard to reach by dirt road in the dry season and impossible during the rainy season. The upside is that there are few motorized vehicles—it’s really off the beaten path. Located at the mouth of a huge river, you have to travel 60 km by speedboat from Antsohihy to get there. This was our first trip of this kind as a family—pretty adventurous, with plenty of questions and even some worries from my wife (bugs, safety, amenities, etc.). We joined a friend who’s staying there, so we weren’t completely in the dark. I’ll give you the highlights without going into too much detail. After arriving in Tana, we spent the night at a "high-end" hotel (La Ribaudière) for 56 € a night in a mini-suite with all the European comforts, then we left early the next morning. We decided to hire a car and a guide for the trip from Tana, with a stop at Ankarafantsika Park. The guide accompanied us all the way to Antsohihy. Leaving Tana, we got our first shock driving through the city, then we crossed stunning high plateaus toward Majunga (RN4). We zigzagged between potholes, zebu-drawn carts, broken-down trucks, and *taxi-brousses*. We passed through countless villages, honking all the way—pedestrians just have to watch out. Rice fields and tropical greenery filled every valley, water didn’t seem scarce. Then came the savanna and bushfires everywhere! After a full day of travel and a few stops, we arrived in Andranofasika, the village at the park entrance. We thought the agency (Look Gazy) had booked us a room at the Blue Lodge, but there was a mix-up—no reservation, no space. So we headed to the park, which has about ten bungalows. It was amazing: right in the jungle with all the ambient sounds. Geckos in the room became our friends, frogs in the toilet, and HUGE spiders under the terrace roof—they didn’t budge. Comfort was still there, though. We did three park circuits in one day with a guide. It’s a bit pricey, but it’s an excellent introduction. We saw lemurs (makis), birds, snakes, crocodiles, and fishing eagles—maybe we were just lucky! On the third day, we headed to Antsohihy through more savanna and bushfires. The town was lively, but the Hotel Anaïs was a serious downgrade! Loud music late into the night, then dogs barking and howling for the rest of it. Bucket showers and squat toilets. The guide left us here. - Quick tip: guides charge by the day, excluding fuel, and the empty return trip is on you. When I got the quote, they offered 3 days of guiding, 2 days of return trips (about 700 km), plus fuel for 600 €! I turned it down—it wasn’t worth it. By the day plus fuel, it cost us 400 €. The next day, we took the speedboat (I’d call it an uncomfortable, noisy, slow raft!) for the 60 km river trip through the mangroves. - Tip: bring an umbrella to shield yourself from the sun, and maybe use your airplane earplugs! It was a long, peaceful river—absolutely stunning. We were diving even deeper into the African vibe. We arrived in Analalava at dusk. The sunsets over the nearby islands were incredible. It was 6:30 PM—back home, it stays light until 10 PM, so we’d have to get up early to make the most of the days. Here, it’s winter: "almost cool" at night (20–22°C) and 30–32°C in the shade during the day. A friend found us a bungalow to rent next to his (which he rents year-round). It’s solidly built with a palm-leaf roof, sheltered by huge mango trees. The bucket-and-squat toilets are outside, electricity comes and goes (when the neighborhood isn’t blacked out), and the view of the sea and islands is breathtaking (15,000 Ariary/day). Sometimes, the last pair of sifakas (that weren’t eaten 😕) passes by! A woman comes every day to fill the water bucket from the well and takes any laundry we want washed—for a few Ariary. It’s her livelihood, and she’s happy to have the work, though I feel bad seeing her make endless trips with buckets on her head. She charges 100 Ars per bucket or per piece of laundry. And there we were, deep in Africa, 8,000 km from our comfort zone. Surrounded by chickens, ducks, goats, and zebus roaming semi-freely. My wife was a bit overwhelmed by the "bathroom" at first, but she got used to it. The plan: *mora mora* (take it easy), fishing, walks around Analalava, island expeditions, and—most importantly to me—the Bay of Morambe. My friend on-site just got his own pirogue, built locally with an outboard motor—total luxury! He’s a great hunter-fisherman, so we ate amazing, ultra-fresh seafood during our stay, expertly prepared by his partner. But the pirogue that was supposed to take us to the islands (Nosy Lava, Ilane, and Fao) came with challenges. Though it’s called *Freedom*, it wasn’t that simple. July is windy—the *Varataz* (trade winds) blows every morning and usually shifts in the afternoon. Pirogues without keels can’t sail against the wind and don’t handle strong gusts well. You can’t reef the sail, and there’s a risk of capsizing despite the float—it’s intense. A local joined us to sail, and we waited for the right day. Fishermen weren’t going out because the wind was strong and didn’t shift. Then one morning, after a windless night, we set off for Ilane—a tiny island with coconut trees and fine sand, like playing *Survivor*. We ate the day’s catch and coconuts; the kids were in heaven, and so were we. :) Though small, you can walk around the island in 20 minutes. It’s home to fishermen and littered with turtle skeletons :( The return was more chaotic—like boat people at 4 AM in the waves before the strong wind picked up. We took the shortest route to shore and then hugged the coast with the motor. I wasn’t feeling great about it! For Morambe, we negotiated a private speedboat (350,000 Ars/day + fuel). A full day’s navigation to get there—paradise, no other word for it. I hope it stays that way! I won’t say more. Getting there is an adventure in itself! Originally, I just wanted to cross the Bay of Narinda by boat and reach Morambe on foot by crossing the peninsula, but the return wasn’t guaranteed. There’s little info about the place, and we didn’t know what to expect. After two or three weeks soaking in the vibe, we were ready for the Malagasy return trip. We’d taken the speedboat too many times and wanted to leave Analalava by 4x4—some people make the trip to Antsohihy, but it’s not regular. No luck: the 4x4 was stuck in Antsohihy the day we left. So we took the speedboat again, then hopped straight onto a night *taxi-brousse* to Tana, leaving a buffer day just in case. The trip went smoothly, with music and a screen playing music videos all night—you just have to deal with it! We arrived in Tana without any issues and had a day to explore the Analakelly market and buy some souvenirs. My wife splurged on a beautiful piece of Malagasy stone jewelry on Jewelry Street, right near the hotel (still La Ribaudière). She blew the budget! Finally, a taxi took us to the airport, taking shortcuts to avoid traffic and giving us a mini tour for a good price: 40,000 Ars. We left him a bag of clothes. This trip will leave us with unforgettable memories—and a few frustrations. We couldn’t enjoy the marine life because the water was murky from the constant wind during our stay—*maloutre*, as they say, even at Morambe and the islands. The failed 4x4 return was a bummer, too. We also wanted to do a big hike on the Narinda Peninsula, but it would’ve required more prep. Otherwise, no mosquito issues (fewer than in France!), no major digestive problems or other ailments. Safety? Didn’t see any issues, and we didn’t take unnecessary risks. We’ve set the bar high for our next trips!
We’ve just returned from a trip with our 8- and 12-year-old sons, our eyes full of memories. We went to Analalava, a village that’s hard to reach by dirt road in the dry season and impossible during the rainy season. The upside is that there are few motorized vehicles—it’s really off the beaten path. Located at the mouth of a huge river, you have to travel 60 km by speedboat from Antsohihy to get there. This was our first trip of this kind as a family—pretty adventurous, with plenty of questions and even some worries from my wife (bugs, safety, amenities, etc.). We joined a friend who’s staying there, so we weren’t completely in the dark. I’ll give you the highlights without going into too much detail. After arriving in Tana, we spent the night at a "high-end" hotel (La Ribaudière) for 56 € a night in a mini-suite with all the European comforts, then we left early the next morning. We decided to hire a car and a guide for the trip from Tana, with a stop at Ankarafantsika Park. The guide accompanied us all the way to Antsohihy. Leaving Tana, we got our first shock driving through the city, then we crossed stunning high plateaus toward Majunga (RN4). We zigzagged between potholes, zebu-drawn carts, broken-down trucks, and *taxi-brousses*. We passed through countless villages, honking all the way—pedestrians just have to watch out. Rice fields and tropical greenery filled every valley, water didn’t seem scarce. Then came the savanna and bushfires everywhere! After a full day of travel and a few stops, we arrived in Andranofasika, the village at the park entrance. We thought the agency (Look Gazy) had booked us a room at the Blue Lodge, but there was a mix-up—no reservation, no space. So we headed to the park, which has about ten bungalows. It was amazing: right in the jungle with all the ambient sounds. Geckos in the room became our friends, frogs in the toilet, and HUGE spiders under the terrace roof—they didn’t budge. Comfort was still there, though. We did three park circuits in one day with a guide. It’s a bit pricey, but it’s an excellent introduction. We saw lemurs (makis), birds, snakes, crocodiles, and fishing eagles—maybe we were just lucky! On the third day, we headed to Antsohihy through more savanna and bushfires. The town was lively, but the Hotel Anaïs was a serious downgrade! Loud music late into the night, then dogs barking and howling for the rest of it. Bucket showers and squat toilets. The guide left us here. - Quick tip: guides charge by the day, excluding fuel, and the empty return trip is on you. When I got the quote, they offered 3 days of guiding, 2 days of return trips (about 700 km), plus fuel for 600 €! I turned it down—it wasn’t worth it. By the day plus fuel, it cost us 400 €. The next day, we took the speedboat (I’d call it an uncomfortable, noisy, slow raft!) for the 60 km river trip through the mangroves. - Tip: bring an umbrella to shield yourself from the sun, and maybe use your airplane earplugs! It was a long, peaceful river—absolutely stunning. We were diving even deeper into the African vibe. We arrived in Analalava at dusk. The sunsets over the nearby islands were incredible. It was 6:30 PM—back home, it stays light until 10 PM, so we’d have to get up early to make the most of the days. Here, it’s winter: "almost cool" at night (20–22°C) and 30–32°C in the shade during the day. A friend found us a bungalow to rent next to his (which he rents year-round). It’s solidly built with a palm-leaf roof, sheltered by huge mango trees. The bucket-and-squat toilets are outside, electricity comes and goes (when the neighborhood isn’t blacked out), and the view of the sea and islands is breathtaking (15,000 Ariary/day). Sometimes, the last pair of sifakas (that weren’t eaten 😕) passes by! A woman comes every day to fill the water bucket from the well and takes any laundry we want washed—for a few Ariary. It’s her livelihood, and she’s happy to have the work, though I feel bad seeing her make endless trips with buckets on her head. She charges 100 Ars per bucket or per piece of laundry. And there we were, deep in Africa, 8,000 km from our comfort zone. Surrounded by chickens, ducks, goats, and zebus roaming semi-freely. My wife was a bit overwhelmed by the "bathroom" at first, but she got used to it. The plan: *mora mora* (take it easy), fishing, walks around Analalava, island expeditions, and—most importantly to me—the Bay of Morambe. My friend on-site just got his own pirogue, built locally with an outboard motor—total luxury! He’s a great hunter-fisherman, so we ate amazing, ultra-fresh seafood during our stay, expertly prepared by his partner. But the pirogue that was supposed to take us to the islands (Nosy Lava, Ilane, and Fao) came with challenges. Though it’s called *Freedom*, it wasn’t that simple. July is windy—the *Varataz* (trade winds) blows every morning and usually shifts in the afternoon. Pirogues without keels can’t sail against the wind and don’t handle strong gusts well. You can’t reef the sail, and there’s a risk of capsizing despite the float—it’s intense. A local joined us to sail, and we waited for the right day. Fishermen weren’t going out because the wind was strong and didn’t shift. Then one morning, after a windless night, we set off for Ilane—a tiny island with coconut trees and fine sand, like playing *Survivor*. We ate the day’s catch and coconuts; the kids were in heaven, and so were we. :) Though small, you can walk around the island in 20 minutes. It’s home to fishermen and littered with turtle skeletons :( The return was more chaotic—like boat people at 4 AM in the waves before the strong wind picked up. We took the shortest route to shore and then hugged the coast with the motor. I wasn’t feeling great about it! For Morambe, we negotiated a private speedboat (350,000 Ars/day + fuel). A full day’s navigation to get there—paradise, no other word for it. I hope it stays that way! I won’t say more. Getting there is an adventure in itself! Originally, I just wanted to cross the Bay of Narinda by boat and reach Morambe on foot by crossing the peninsula, but the return wasn’t guaranteed. There’s little info about the place, and we didn’t know what to expect. After two or three weeks soaking in the vibe, we were ready for the Malagasy return trip. We’d taken the speedboat too many times and wanted to leave Analalava by 4x4—some people make the trip to Antsohihy, but it’s not regular. No luck: the 4x4 was stuck in Antsohihy the day we left. So we took the speedboat again, then hopped straight onto a night *taxi-brousse* to Tana, leaving a buffer day just in case. The trip went smoothly, with music and a screen playing music videos all night—you just have to deal with it! We arrived in Tana without any issues and had a day to explore the Analakelly market and buy some souvenirs. My wife splurged on a beautiful piece of Malagasy stone jewelry on Jewelry Street, right near the hotel (still La Ribaudière). She blew the budget! Finally, a taxi took us to the airport, taking shortcuts to avoid traffic and giving us a mini tour for a good price: 40,000 Ars. We left him a bag of clothes. This trip will leave us with unforgettable memories—and a few frustrations. We couldn’t enjoy the marine life because the water was murky from the constant wind during our stay—*maloutre*, as they say, even at Morambe and the islands. The failed 4x4 return was a bummer, too. We also wanted to do a big hike on the Narinda Peninsula, but it would’ve required more prep. Otherwise, no mosquito issues (fewer than in France!), no major digestive problems or other ailments. Safety? Didn’t see any issues, and we didn’t take unnecessary risks. We’ve set the bar high for our next trips!
I contacted several agencies in Madagascar to arrange this 4x4 trip along the coast.
Always the same answer: a tailor-made trip with at least 2 participants.
Since I don’t want to travel alone and a friend isn’t available, I’m looking for a woman to share this trip with the agency Mahay Mada, which offers a 12-day, 11-night tour of southern Madagascar. I’m available from August 23 to September 14.
Thanks for your direct response at 0784659791. See you soon, Mireille
Hi there,
I’d like to ride from Mahajanga to Morondava, sticking as close to the coast as possible—using roads and tracks—in September 2026. If you’ve got any suggestions, let me know! 😉
Paul
I’d like to ride from Mahajanga to Morondava, sticking as close to the coast as possible—using roads and tracks—in September 2026. If you’ve got any suggestions, let me know! 😉
Paul
Hello,
I’m continuing the Antalaha–Maroantsetra discussion but for some info in the other direction, specifically about hiking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha.
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
