Hello,
I’m starting to plan our summer 2025 trip. We’ll be traveling as a family (2 adults and 2 teens), most likely in mid-July.
Here’s a first draft of our itinerary. I’d love to hear your thoughts on whether this 15-day route is doable. We’ll be renting a car in Rovaniemi.
- Rovaniemi (2 nights)
- Jokkmokk (1 night)
- Kiruna (1 or 2 nights???)
- Narvik (1 night)
- Lofoten Islands (3 or 4 nights???)
- Bodø (2 nights)
- Return through Sweden, but where to stay between Bodø and Luleå to break up the drive????? (1 night)
- Luleå (1 or 2 nights???)
- Return to Rovaniemi (1 night)
What do you think of this route? I’m open to all suggestions—whether there are places to add, remove, or adjust. Thanks in advance for your help!
43 similar discussions in English
Hi everyone,
There haven’t been many recent stories about Norway in winter, and since I had trouble finding info on winter hikes, I thought I’d share a little travel journal.
Back in September 2024, while planning our summer 2025 trip to Norway, I joined some Facebook groups dedicated to travel in Scandinavia and started reading travel blogs. Since winter trips were being planned at the time, I came across posts with stunning photos of northern Norway in winter. I’d always pictured monotonous landscapes of pine forests and frozen lakes, so I was pleasantly surprised to see fjords, mountain ranges, and charming colorful cabins—just like in the Lofoten Islands. Turns out, the vast pine forests are more typical of Finnish Lapland. Norway, north of the Arctic Circle, is actually much more diverse. That was all it took to suggest this destination to my three guys for our winter vacation. After some research, early March seemed ideal—good weather, long enough daylight, and great chances for northern lights. A direct flight from Paris to Tromsø sealed the deal. The only downside? The cost of cars, accommodations, and activities nearly made us back out! Everything except flights is really expensive.
Since our oldest son had an important school deadline in June, he decided to skip the trip, so we ended up going as a trio. We took a Transavia round-trip flight from Orly to Tromsø for an amazing trip from March 1st to 8th.
Want to come along?
There haven’t been many recent stories about Norway in winter, and since I had trouble finding info on winter hikes, I thought I’d share a little travel journal.
Back in September 2024, while planning our summer 2025 trip to Norway, I joined some Facebook groups dedicated to travel in Scandinavia and started reading travel blogs. Since winter trips were being planned at the time, I came across posts with stunning photos of northern Norway in winter. I’d always pictured monotonous landscapes of pine forests and frozen lakes, so I was pleasantly surprised to see fjords, mountain ranges, and charming colorful cabins—just like in the Lofoten Islands. Turns out, the vast pine forests are more typical of Finnish Lapland. Norway, north of the Arctic Circle, is actually much more diverse. That was all it took to suggest this destination to my three guys for our winter vacation. After some research, early March seemed ideal—good weather, long enough daylight, and great chances for northern lights. A direct flight from Paris to Tromsø sealed the deal. The only downside? The cost of cars, accommodations, and activities nearly made us back out! Everything except flights is really expensive.
Since our oldest son had an important school deadline in June, he decided to skip the trip, so we ended up going as a trio. We took a Transavia round-trip flight from Orly to Tromsø for an amazing trip from March 1st to 8th.
Want to come along?
Our trip to Norway was two years ago already, but I thought it might still be of interest—and it’ll let me relive it a bit by proxy.
Before booking our flight tickets, we debated the route: should we prioritize the north with the Lofoten and Senja islands, or the south with its countless fjords? I was tempted to stay in the south—the country is so vast, and the drive north is long... but my husband really didn’t want to miss the Lofoten. In the end, we figured that since Norway is known for being expensive, we might only visit once (funny how we said the same thing before our first trip to the American West, and look how that turned out 😎), so we didn’t want to skip anything. That meant a 2–3 day drive up north. With 22 days on the ground, it was doable. Especially since, as usual, we skip big cities and gave Oslo a pass.
Practical details: - Flight tickets: 1195 € for 4 with Air France (Paris–Oslo outbound, Tromsø–Bergen–Paris return) - Car rental: 2020 € for 21 days (including the outrageous drop-off fee between Oslo and Tromsø—about 1000 €) - Tolls and ferries: 250 € for the portion billed directly by the rental company. Some ferries required advance booking and payment at the time of reservation—I’ll note their prices as I go through the story. - Hotels: 4135 €, averaging 188 € per night. We blew past our usual budgets from trips to the U.S., but oh well... - Food: 1570 €, averaging 71 € per day for 4 in a country where everything’s expensive... How’d we manage? We rarely ate out, mostly grocery shopped, and even packed half a suitcase with non-perishables: pasta, rice, a few cans, and even some cured sausage! We also stayed 3 nights at Clarion Collection hotels, where an evening buffet was included in the room rate.
Before booking our flight tickets, we debated the route: should we prioritize the north with the Lofoten and Senja islands, or the south with its countless fjords? I was tempted to stay in the south—the country is so vast, and the drive north is long... but my husband really didn’t want to miss the Lofoten. In the end, we figured that since Norway is known for being expensive, we might only visit once (funny how we said the same thing before our first trip to the American West, and look how that turned out 😎), so we didn’t want to skip anything. That meant a 2–3 day drive up north. With 22 days on the ground, it was doable. Especially since, as usual, we skip big cities and gave Oslo a pass.
Practical details: - Flight tickets: 1195 € for 4 with Air France (Paris–Oslo outbound, Tromsø–Bergen–Paris return) - Car rental: 2020 € for 21 days (including the outrageous drop-off fee between Oslo and Tromsø—about 1000 €) - Tolls and ferries: 250 € for the portion billed directly by the rental company. Some ferries required advance booking and payment at the time of reservation—I’ll note their prices as I go through the story. - Hotels: 4135 €, averaging 188 € per night. We blew past our usual budgets from trips to the U.S., but oh well... - Food: 1570 €, averaging 71 € per day for 4 in a country where everything’s expensive... How’d we manage? We rarely ate out, mostly grocery shopped, and even packed half a suitcase with non-perishables: pasta, rice, a few cans, and even some cured sausage! We also stayed 3 nights at Clarion Collection hotels, where an evening buffet was included in the room rate.
Hi everyone,
Well, the time to head back has come, so it’s time to share the 3 weeks we spent in Norway this year 🙂
Right, here are a few details before we dive in!
Who: My husband, me, and our daughter, who turned 8 during the trip
When: From July 5 to 28, 2019—three full weeks there
What: A one-way trip from Oslo to Tromsø, with fjords, the Lofoten Islands, and so much more on the itinerary! Since you have to make choices—and because the country is huge—we decided to skip the south around Stavanger (we thought the hikes there might be too tough for us). We also chose not to go all the way to Bergen. Our goal was to spend time in the northern islands.
The route to Bodø:
The route from Lofoten to Tromsø
How: By camper van. Even though it’s not exactly budget-friendly, it’s really the ideal way to explore this country—especially for wild camping and adapting your route based on the weather and your mood. I’d recommend it 200%. It was our first time, and we loved it. Being able to wait out a downpour in warmth or shower after a long hike was super practical!! That said, we did have a few hiccups. The auxiliary battery (which powers the back) died, so we had to find a garage to replace it. And the biggest issue: on a narrow road, I smashed the mirror while passing another camper van 🏴☠️
Budget: Oh boy, that’s a big topic! To be honest, I didn’t tally it all up… because I didn’t want to! Everything is more expensive there, obviously. At the supermarket, for example. So I didn’t keep track—this was a vacation, we weren’t there to count every cent, even if we’re not exactly rolling in money! Ferries are pretty pricey, especially with a camper van, but there’s not much choice. Lots of toll roads too. Basically, when you go there, be prepared to open your wallet!!!
The weather: We weren’t sure what to expect before leaving—or rather, we were expecting bad weather. We were pleasantly surprised: we had almost nothing but great weather, with just a bit of rain toward the end. So the hiking trails weren’t muddy (at all?). Otherwise, it would’ve been a real pain and super slippery! Temperature-wise, we were lucky. It hovered between 15 and 21°C. Sounds chilly, but honestly, with the sun, it warms up nicely, and it was enough to wear shorts and a T-shirt almost the whole time—something I didn’t expect before we left. That said, the water temperature is freezing. The Arctic Ocean lives up to its name!! We could barely keep our feet in the water, even though those turquoise beaches were so tempting!!!
A few tips for preparation:
For wild camping: Use Park4Night—the app is amazing for finding spots and sharing our discoveries. We never would’ve dared to venture down some of those roads or trails without it.
For hikes: It’s not always easy to find hikes in the fjords that are manageable in terms of elevation, difficulty, and time. We still found some through blogs and tourist office websites. But we mostly focused on hikes in the Lofoten Islands, thanks to sites like rando-lofoten, 68north, and outt. Unsurprisingly, the level is pretty challenging. But by sticking to the “easy” ones, we managed just fine without being super trained, and we saw some incredible views!
Alright, no more waiting—let’s go! Follow me!
For those who want the "moving version," check out the video here, on page 3: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=9817074;live=1;#9817074
Well, the time to head back has come, so it’s time to share the 3 weeks we spent in Norway this year 🙂
Right, here are a few details before we dive in!
Who: My husband, me, and our daughter, who turned 8 during the trip
When: From July 5 to 28, 2019—three full weeks there
What: A one-way trip from Oslo to Tromsø, with fjords, the Lofoten Islands, and so much more on the itinerary! Since you have to make choices—and because the country is huge—we decided to skip the south around Stavanger (we thought the hikes there might be too tough for us). We also chose not to go all the way to Bergen. Our goal was to spend time in the northern islands.
The route to Bodø:
The route from Lofoten to Tromsø
How: By camper van. Even though it’s not exactly budget-friendly, it’s really the ideal way to explore this country—especially for wild camping and adapting your route based on the weather and your mood. I’d recommend it 200%. It was our first time, and we loved it. Being able to wait out a downpour in warmth or shower after a long hike was super practical!! That said, we did have a few hiccups. The auxiliary battery (which powers the back) died, so we had to find a garage to replace it. And the biggest issue: on a narrow road, I smashed the mirror while passing another camper van 🏴☠️
Budget: Oh boy, that’s a big topic! To be honest, I didn’t tally it all up… because I didn’t want to! Everything is more expensive there, obviously. At the supermarket, for example. So I didn’t keep track—this was a vacation, we weren’t there to count every cent, even if we’re not exactly rolling in money! Ferries are pretty pricey, especially with a camper van, but there’s not much choice. Lots of toll roads too. Basically, when you go there, be prepared to open your wallet!!!
The weather: We weren’t sure what to expect before leaving—or rather, we were expecting bad weather. We were pleasantly surprised: we had almost nothing but great weather, with just a bit of rain toward the end. So the hiking trails weren’t muddy (at all?). Otherwise, it would’ve been a real pain and super slippery! Temperature-wise, we were lucky. It hovered between 15 and 21°C. Sounds chilly, but honestly, with the sun, it warms up nicely, and it was enough to wear shorts and a T-shirt almost the whole time—something I didn’t expect before we left. That said, the water temperature is freezing. The Arctic Ocean lives up to its name!! We could barely keep our feet in the water, even though those turquoise beaches were so tempting!!!
A few tips for preparation:
For wild camping: Use Park4Night—the app is amazing for finding spots and sharing our discoveries. We never would’ve dared to venture down some of those roads or trails without it.
For hikes: It’s not always easy to find hikes in the fjords that are manageable in terms of elevation, difficulty, and time. We still found some through blogs and tourist office websites. But we mostly focused on hikes in the Lofoten Islands, thanks to sites like rando-lofoten, 68north, and outt. Unsurprisingly, the level is pretty challenging. But by sticking to the “easy” ones, we managed just fine without being super trained, and we saw some incredible views!
Alright, no more waiting—let’s go! Follow me!
For those who want the "moving version," check out the video here, on page 3: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=9817074;live=1;#9817074
Our trip lasted a month, from March 10 to April 10, 2024, and was done aboard our Land Rover Defender 110. For those interested, our 4x4 is equipped with mountain-approved 3PMFSF all-terrain tires (non-studded), a removable electric winch that can be attached to either the front or rear of the vehicle, two sand recovery boards, and we bring two pairs of snow chains. We sleep in our Land Rover, which is equipped with a diesel-powered independent heater, a small fridge, and has a layout that allows the dinette to be converted into a bed.
Starting from the Paris region, we crossed Belgium and Germany, took the ferry from Travemünde in northern Germany to Helsinki, followed the Russian border up to northern Finland, then headed into Norway all the way to the North Cape before returning via Norway, taking the ferry from Larvik in Norway to Hirtshals in Denmark, then passing through Germany and Belgium on our way back to France.
Tonight, March 10, 2024, we’ll be sleeping at our daughter’s place in the North.
Tuesday, March 11, we’ll cross Belgium and then enter Germany, where we’ll camp in Bremen.
Wednesday, March 12, we’ll have a quick visit to Bremen in the morning. We had planned to visit Lübeck, but some electrical issues with the car delayed us, so we head straight to the German port of Travemünde, where we’re set to embark at 11:30 PM to cross the Baltic Sea and arrive in Helsinki after 31 hours of sailing (one-way cabin ticket cost: 850 €—quite expensive since we booked last minute).
On the ferry, there are mostly semi-trucks and only a few campervans and passenger cars. The boat is quiet, and the Baltic Sea is calm.
About two hours before arriving in Helsinki, we hear noise along the hull. Surprise—looking out the porthole, we realize we’re sailing on frozen sea ice!
Thursday, March 14, we arrive at the port of Helsinki at 9:30 AM. Disembarking takes a while. As soon as we’re out, we head straight to Rastila Camping (cost: 27 €), about ten kilometers east of Helsinki. Then we go to a Land Rover garage to fix our headlight switch, which stopped working (a real hassle in Finland since you have to drive with low beams on at all times).
After the repair, we visit the stunning Temppeliaukio Church, which is built underground.
On our way back to the campsite, we stop at the supermarket for supplies. Prices are similar to France, except for imported products.
We settle into our snowy campsite spot.
Starting from the Paris region, we crossed Belgium and Germany, took the ferry from Travemünde in northern Germany to Helsinki, followed the Russian border up to northern Finland, then headed into Norway all the way to the North Cape before returning via Norway, taking the ferry from Larvik in Norway to Hirtshals in Denmark, then passing through Germany and Belgium on our way back to France.
Tonight, March 10, 2024, we’ll be sleeping at our daughter’s place in the North.
Tuesday, March 11, we’ll cross Belgium and then enter Germany, where we’ll camp in Bremen.
Wednesday, March 12, we’ll have a quick visit to Bremen in the morning. We had planned to visit Lübeck, but some electrical issues with the car delayed us, so we head straight to the German port of Travemünde, where we’re set to embark at 11:30 PM to cross the Baltic Sea and arrive in Helsinki after 31 hours of sailing (one-way cabin ticket cost: 850 €—quite expensive since we booked last minute).
On the ferry, there are mostly semi-trucks and only a few campervans and passenger cars. The boat is quiet, and the Baltic Sea is calm.
About two hours before arriving in Helsinki, we hear noise along the hull. Surprise—looking out the porthole, we realize we’re sailing on frozen sea ice!
Thursday, March 14, we arrive at the port of Helsinki at 9:30 AM. Disembarking takes a while. As soon as we’re out, we head straight to Rastila Camping (cost: 27 €), about ten kilometers east of Helsinki. Then we go to a Land Rover garage to fix our headlight switch, which stopped working (a real hassle in Finland since you have to drive with low beams on at all times).
After the repair, we visit the stunning Temppeliaukio Church, which is built underground.
On our way back to the campsite, we stop at the supermarket for supplies. Prices are similar to France, except for imported products.
We settle into our snowy campsite spot.
Hello everyone,
I’ve wanted to take this Norway cruise for a very long time. The first time I booked it was in July 2020 with Azamara. Unfortunately, it was canceled, as everyone remembers. When I tried to book it again, the prices (already a bit high with Azamara) had simply doubled. So, since then, I’ve been keeping an eye out every year for any opportunities...
The last time we sailed with Princess was eleven years ago, and things didn’t go very well. I came back pretty unhappy with their service and quite disappointed. Despite the $600 they gave me as credit for a future cruise, I’d never set foot on one of their ships again.
But this time, the opportunity arose—a fantastic itinerary with lots of stops, a reasonable price for 16 nights (I’ll share the details in the conclusion), and a ship that’s not too big, so to speak, with only 3,000 passengers. I’m not expecting much from the cruise line this time and am boarding the ship with low expectations beyond the itinerary.
Princess has introduced an app to download before the cruise. It’s essential because online check-in is no longer available, and the agency doesn’t send a travel journal. Everything is done through the app. After completing the check-in on the app, we only know that we’ll need to pick up our key, the Medallion, at embarkation by following the blue line in the terminal and presenting our passport.
Up until our departure, the weather forecast for the coming week in Norway is disastrous—rain, rain, and more rain. It was pretty much the same two years ago before our Iceland cruise, and in the end, the weather turned out fine.
If you’re ready to embark on the Emerald Princess to discover this beautiful cruise and the stunning landscapes of Norway, let’s go!
Southampton - Sea day - Bergen - Olden - Åndalsnes - Sea day - Tromsø - Honningsvåg (North Cape) - Alta - Sea day - Molde - Trondheim - Two sea days - Edinburgh - Sea day - Southampton
I’ve wanted to take this Norway cruise for a very long time. The first time I booked it was in July 2020 with Azamara. Unfortunately, it was canceled, as everyone remembers. When I tried to book it again, the prices (already a bit high with Azamara) had simply doubled. So, since then, I’ve been keeping an eye out every year for any opportunities...
The last time we sailed with Princess was eleven years ago, and things didn’t go very well. I came back pretty unhappy with their service and quite disappointed. Despite the $600 they gave me as credit for a future cruise, I’d never set foot on one of their ships again.
But this time, the opportunity arose—a fantastic itinerary with lots of stops, a reasonable price for 16 nights (I’ll share the details in the conclusion), and a ship that’s not too big, so to speak, with only 3,000 passengers. I’m not expecting much from the cruise line this time and am boarding the ship with low expectations beyond the itinerary.
Princess has introduced an app to download before the cruise. It’s essential because online check-in is no longer available, and the agency doesn’t send a travel journal. Everything is done through the app. After completing the check-in on the app, we only know that we’ll need to pick up our key, the Medallion, at embarkation by following the blue line in the terminal and presenting our passport.
Up until our departure, the weather forecast for the coming week in Norway is disastrous—rain, rain, and more rain. It was pretty much the same two years ago before our Iceland cruise, and in the end, the weather turned out fine.
If you’re ready to embark on the Emerald Princess to discover this beautiful cruise and the stunning landscapes of Norway, let’s go!
Southampton - Sea day - Bergen - Olden - Åndalsnes - Sea day - Tromsø - Honningsvåg (North Cape) - Alta - Sea day - Molde - Trondheim - Two sea days - Edinburgh - Sea day - Southampton
Hello,
We’ll be sailing on the Renaissance with CFC to southern Norway from July 4 to 11, 2026, departing from Dunkirk (the cruise was booked through "Planète Croisière").
When entering some personal details or pre-selecting options on the CFC website, I’m wondering about the "optional" categories for drinks and WiFi.
I’m actually a bit surprised by these extra charges, as we weren’t used to them on other cruises (Australis in Patagonia; Hurtigruten’s Coastal Express in Norway and Alaska; Rivages du Monde in the Arctic or on the Douro River; a Nile river cruise in Egypt), where we sometimes had access to basic drinks at meals and free WiFi when near land.
Anyway, for those who’ve already taken a CFC cruise on the Renaissance, could you share some advice? Specifically about the most basic drink package, called "Fraîcheur" (238 € for two), which doesn’t seem to be described anywhere. The "Premium" package seems excessive (490 € for two for the week) for light drinkers.
As for WiFi, it’s 10 € per day per person. While I find that price acceptable for parking our car in Dunkirk, it feels overpriced here (especially since it was free on the Nordlys "Coastal Express" just 3 or 4 years ago).
So, I’d love to hear from experienced cruisers who’ve been on this ship!
Looking forward to seeing the excursion prices, which should be available soon! 😐
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
In the summer of 2026, we packed our backpacks again to wander around Jotunheimen National Park in Norway.
We’d never heard of this park just a few months earlier—it was through browsing online threads that we discovered it.
Touted as the most mountainous park in the country, it really caught our eye after scrapping our original plan further north.
Unfortunately, it’s also the most crowded, which immediately made us less enthusiastic! The presence of the highest peak in the Scandinavian Alps and the "famous" Bessengen ridge (famous because it’s clearly well-known across the country) probably has a lot to do with that.
After managing to avoid the crowds on the Kungsleden trails by camping away from the huts and timing our hike to miss the biggest groups of walkers, we figured we had the formula down and gave in to the call of the Norwegian mountains.
It’s the most mountainous, but also quite challenging in terms of progress, as we’d soon find out during the trek. And with uncooperative weather, we got the winning combo of a demanding trek. But I’m getting ahead of myself...
For the end of the trip, we planned a few days in Dovrefjell National Park—since these two parks are easily connected by public transport—to see something different and (most importantly) to try and spot the musk oxen that live there.
Tue 04/08 - Arrival in Oslo Wed 05/08 - Bygdin – Torfinsbu Thu 06/08 - Torfinsbu - Gjendebu Fri 07/08 - Gjendebu - Fondsbu Sat 08/08 - Round trip to Slotafjellet Sun 09/08 - Round trip to Lake Kvitevatnet Mon 10/08 - Fondsbu - Gjendebu Tue 11/08 - Gjendebu - Before the Bessengen ridge Wed 12/08 - Bessengen ridge – Maurvangen campsite Thu 13/08 - Knutshoe ridge Fri 14/08 - Bus transfer to Spiterstulen hut via Lom Sat 15/08 - Round trip to Galdhøppigen
Coming soon: Dovrefjell
We’d never heard of this park just a few months earlier—it was through browsing online threads that we discovered it.
Touted as the most mountainous park in the country, it really caught our eye after scrapping our original plan further north.
Unfortunately, it’s also the most crowded, which immediately made us less enthusiastic! The presence of the highest peak in the Scandinavian Alps and the "famous" Bessengen ridge (famous because it’s clearly well-known across the country) probably has a lot to do with that.
After managing to avoid the crowds on the Kungsleden trails by camping away from the huts and timing our hike to miss the biggest groups of walkers, we figured we had the formula down and gave in to the call of the Norwegian mountains.
It’s the most mountainous, but also quite challenging in terms of progress, as we’d soon find out during the trek. And with uncooperative weather, we got the winning combo of a demanding trek. But I’m getting ahead of myself...
For the end of the trip, we planned a few days in Dovrefjell National Park—since these two parks are easily connected by public transport—to see something different and (most importantly) to try and spot the musk oxen that live there.
Tue 04/08 - Arrival in Oslo Wed 05/08 - Bygdin – Torfinsbu Thu 06/08 - Torfinsbu - Gjendebu Fri 07/08 - Gjendebu - Fondsbu Sat 08/08 - Round trip to Slotafjellet Sun 09/08 - Round trip to Lake Kvitevatnet Mon 10/08 - Fondsbu - Gjendebu Tue 11/08 - Gjendebu - Before the Bessengen ridge Wed 12/08 - Bessengen ridge – Maurvangen campsite Thu 13/08 - Knutshoe ridge Fri 14/08 - Bus transfer to Spiterstulen hut via Lom Sat 15/08 - Round trip to Galdhøppigen
Coming soon: Dovrefjell
While planning a trip to the LOFOTEN for summer 2023 using the excellent guide *Hiking in the Lofoten*, we discovered this trek.
Sure, it’s rated as difficult, but it lets you cross the LOFOTEN on foot from north to south in 11 stages, covering 160 km and 9,193 m of elevation gain (or the reverse, of course).
So, it’s a multi-day hike, with wild camping, and no need to rent a car. Perfect...
What’s making us hesitate a bit are the island transfers (okay, I’ll admit, the difficulty is also a factor for me). These transfers require taking public transport and/or hitchhiking. But the stages are designed with this in mind, and the transfers are well explained. Plus, water isn’t an issue, and you can resupply several times, which helps keep the pack weight down.
For Jean Marie, my partner, this will be his first multi-day trek, but he’s an experienced and hardy hiker. As for me, even though I’m not as tough, I’ve already done some multi-day hikes. So, we should complement each other well.
So, are we going for it? Sold!!
Here’s the trek map: HERE
03/08 – Day 1 - Delp – Sandsletta 04/08 - Day 2 – Sandsletta – Svolvaer 05/08 - Day 3 – Svolvaer – Kleppstad + transfer to the start of Day 4 06/08 – Day 4 – Vikjorda hamlet – Store Lake 07/08 – Day 5 – Store Lake – Leknes - Transfer to Napp on Flakstadøya Island 08/08 – Day 6 – Napp – Nusfjord 09/08 – Day 7 – Nusfjord – Ramberg 10/08 – Day 8 – Ramberg – Selfjord Bay (Moskenesøya Island) 11/08 – Day 9 - Selfjord – Bunes Beach 12/08 – Day 10 - Bunes Beach - Krokvatnet Lake 13/08 – Day 11 - Krokvatnet Lake – Moskenes (campsite) and round trip to Å by bus 14/08 – Day 12 – Hike up Reinebringen – Reine – Tour of Agvatnet Lake 15/08 – Return to Bodø - flight back to France on 16/08 And here’s the inevitable recap
Sure, it’s rated as difficult, but it lets you cross the LOFOTEN on foot from north to south in 11 stages, covering 160 km and 9,193 m of elevation gain (or the reverse, of course).
So, it’s a multi-day hike, with wild camping, and no need to rent a car. Perfect...
What’s making us hesitate a bit are the island transfers (okay, I’ll admit, the difficulty is also a factor for me). These transfers require taking public transport and/or hitchhiking. But the stages are designed with this in mind, and the transfers are well explained. Plus, water isn’t an issue, and you can resupply several times, which helps keep the pack weight down.
For Jean Marie, my partner, this will be his first multi-day trek, but he’s an experienced and hardy hiker. As for me, even though I’m not as tough, I’ve already done some multi-day hikes. So, we should complement each other well.
So, are we going for it? Sold!!
Here’s the trek map: HERE
03/08 – Day 1 - Delp – Sandsletta 04/08 - Day 2 – Sandsletta – Svolvaer 05/08 - Day 3 – Svolvaer – Kleppstad + transfer to the start of Day 4 06/08 – Day 4 – Vikjorda hamlet – Store Lake 07/08 – Day 5 – Store Lake – Leknes - Transfer to Napp on Flakstadøya Island 08/08 – Day 6 – Napp – Nusfjord 09/08 – Day 7 – Nusfjord – Ramberg 10/08 – Day 8 – Ramberg – Selfjord Bay (Moskenesøya Island) 11/08 – Day 9 - Selfjord – Bunes Beach 12/08 – Day 10 - Bunes Beach - Krokvatnet Lake 13/08 – Day 11 - Krokvatnet Lake – Moskenes (campsite) and round trip to Å by bus 14/08 – Day 12 – Hike up Reinebringen – Reine – Tour of Agvatnet Lake 15/08 – Return to Bodø - flight back to France on 16/08 And here’s the inevitable recap
EDITOR’S NOTE: As with every travel journal I publish, I won’t force anyone to agree with my comments—they’re my own, I share my feelings, and that’s it. Your comments are, of course, welcome, but I’ll refrain from responding to any hint of controversy, as has happened in the past.
For the summer holidays of 2018, we decided to take a break from long-haul, transcontinental trips. They’re expensive and exhausting, and this year, we also had to consider our young student’s limited vacation days. So, it was a short 14-day circuit in Scandinavia. Very quickly, I had to abandon the unrealistic idea of driving door-to-door with our personal car (unlike last year—see my "Balkan Stroll" story). Too many kilometers and stops. Still, crossing Poland, Lithuania, Estonia, and Latvia before taking a ferry from Tallinn to Helsinki and Finland was tempting—what a shame.
As usual, I planned ahead and started booking in early February for a mid-July departure, typically the best time weather-wise for this destination. Browsing tour operator catalogs didn’t offer much insight—just the usual circuits. Most aim for the North Cape, but we didn’t have time for that. First, via Expedia, we booked our flight tickets: Paris to Stockholm, Helsinki to Paris for the return (880 euros for three), plus a domestic flight from Oulu to Helsinki in Finland (220 euros). The unanimous advice was that there’s not much to see between the two cities, so this saved us a night’s accommodation and a day of car rental. However, the "drop-off" fees (not returning the car to the country of origin) were unavoidable. Out of 1,100 euros for 12 days of rental, this fee was significant—I say this from memory because I never received a detailed document or even the contract itself after picking up the car, despite my complaints. That said, Holiday Autos offered the best rates at the time with Hertz. Plus, I think we were unknowingly upgraded to a Volvo XC 40 T5 automatic, packed with electronics and an incredibly efficient GPS (so I lugged around my updated TomTom for nothing). I wasn’t used to it, and I’ll come back to that. For 50 euros, I also booked one of the many mandatory ferry crossings in Norway—unless you want to drive kilometers around the countless fjords. Specifically, the Bognes-Lødingen route to reach the Lofoten Islands, a must-see in Norway (though not necessarily the best choice I made—I’ll come back to that). Then, gradually via Booking.com, I reserved hotel accommodations, which wasn’t easy at reasonable prices. For three people, it’s nearly impossible to find a room with three real beds—often a sofa bed or even two separate rooms!!!! Norway isn’t a budget-friendly destination for us, yet French tourists are everywhere—groups or families traveling independently. Okay, you’re probably wondering when I’ll get started—I’m getting there... First up, Stockholm, a two-hour flight from Paris. A first for us: we’d gotten used to online check-in within 30 hours of the flight and sometimes printing our boarding passes. But, as progress never stops, at Roissy, we now also print our baggage tags at a kiosk, then place them on the conveyor belt ourselves, scan the barcode with the handheld scanner, and watch the luggage disappear—hoping it doesn’t get misrouted. With all this reduced staff, I hope ticket prices will drop. What? Huh? I’m naive... Okay, fine! Plus, during the flight, don’t expect any snacks—everything’s paid for now, except for water and coffee. I didn’t think I was on a low-cost flight!!! Picking up the car at Arlanda Airport went smoothly, except the contract signed on a tablet (progress, right?) was never emailed to me as promised—too bad... The Volvo SUV packed with electronics: as usual, aside from adjusting the mirrors and seat, I didn’t bother learning all the features and accessories for better handling. So, from the start, I felt jerky movements in the steering, independent of my control. The white-line detection was activated and corrected my direction whenever I got too close... And that’s not all—there’s also driving assistance. Besides the speed limiter, the car accelerates or brakes on its own based on the distance from the vehicle ahead. You still have to keep your hands on the wheel, though—too bad, we could’ve played cards and let it drive itself. When you slow down, if you signal to overtake and turn the wheel, it accelerates to pass. Soon, we won’t even need a driver’s license... Not to mention the little light in the side mirror to signal vehicles in the "blind spot"—very useful. But given the excessively strict speed limits in these parts, it’s still handy. I’ll unfortunately come back to this later!!!!!! In the end, we covered 4,700 km in 8 days of actual travel—no small feat!!!!!! Stockholm: still loyal to the hop-on-hop-off sightseeing buses (or the reverse), I booked our tickets online with a discount. It remains (for us) one of the best ways to visit and get around big cities. The tourist attractions aren’t that numerous. Forty kilometers from the airport, we reached our hotel, Clarion Amaranten. At reception, we were told our reservation was for four days, not two. I insisted, and they told me to call Booking.com to fix it—they couldn’t do anything themselves. Luckily, a nice blonde understood the situation and asked where we were from to lighten the mood. For me, it worked... After a few minutes of back-and-forth, we realized a namesake had booked at the same time. I think the intern got mixed up—oh well. We finally dropped off our bags and headed out under the sun for the included boat tour. It’s beautiful and relaxing under 26°C. We glided past massive cruise ships, very common in these Nordic countries, especially for fjord tours.
We passed Djurgården, one of the city’s 14 islands, home to the Tivoli amusement park and several museums, including the ABBA Museum and the Vasa Museum. I’m not talking about the crispy sandwiches sold since 1919 but the infamous warship that sank in the harbor on its maiden voyage in 1628 after sailing just a few hundred meters. Its intact hull was salvaged in 1961, and since then, it’s one of Sweden’s most visited museums. The country is a quarter smaller than France and has 10 million inhabitants, mostly in the three big cities (Stockholm, Gothenburg, Malmö). The rest is empty, filled with lakes and forests. The currency is the krona, with 1 euro worth about 10 SEK. Dinner in the Old Town consisted of a so-called Viking burger (more like a kebab) and meatballs—the famous Swedish meatballs with potatoes, just like at IKEA... I have to say, here, it seems the Vikings have long been just blond heads—I get it... It still cost us 550 SEK. A beer alone costs at least 9 euros!!!!
DAY 2. Sunny skies. After a hearty buffet breakfast with salmon, herring in all forms, eggs, cold cuts, bread, and pastries (don’t worry, the classics are there), we started the day by visiting the City Hall tower, famous for hosting the Nobel Prizes (except the Peace Prize, awarded in Oslo). At 106 meters tall, with 365 steps and 9 clocks, it weighs twice as much as the Eiffel Tower. Access is at fixed times in small groups for safety. You can climb up to 73 meters for a 360° view of the city. Next, we visited the Royal Palace, still the official residence of the King of Sweden, and its Treasury (entry: 160 SEK). We skipped the 12:15 PM changing of the guard—three-quarters of an hour before, dozens of onlookers were already crowding the front rows in the sun.
So, we took our favorite bus to rest a bit and tour the city. We also took the subway to see several "decorated" stations—love it or hate it, but it’s original. In the late afternoon, we returned to the Old Town and its Gamla Stan to find some souvenirs, even if it feels more like Bollywood than Viking country, complete with music in the shops—a nice sign of integration... One of the first things that surprised us was the very light car traffic—no traffic jams in this capital. But there are tons of electric and regular bikes, skateboards, and scooters. Also, lots of roadwork and housing construction—apparently a big need. For dinner (our only meal of the day), we treated ourselves to something local at Borgmästaren (Stora Nygatan 35). DECIDEDLY, I’M TELLING YOU EVERYTHING...
DAYS 3 & 4. Contrary to what I was told upon arrival, the hotel parking (700 SEK for 2 nights) didn’t open at 7:00 AM but at 9:00 AM on Saturday. After having to call myself (the French-speaking African receptionist couldn’t do it for me, especially after I told him I thought Croatia would win against France in the World Cup final), the kind parking attendant (partnered with the hotel—there’s the catch) arrived early and let us leave at 8:30 AM to start our east-to-west route to Norway and Oslo, 530 km away, finally beginning our summer adventure. At the border, absolutely no checks, and on the road, aside from lakes and forests, not much to see. However, tolls are very common—don’t overlook this in your budget. In Sweden, everything’s covered by the rental company, but not in other countries. In Norway, there are many automatic toll sections—cameras film your license plate and send you the bill later. So, you must register online at www.epcplc.com/rental, with or without your credit card details, and wait for the final bill. As of now, I haven’t received it, but after noting almost all of them, it should easily reach 200 euros. Roads, tunnels, and bridges are often toll-based to fund maintenance or new constructions. We reached the Norwegian capital at 3:00 PM and checked into our room. Small hiccup: the hotel parking, not reservable, was full on Saturday. Parking meters only take coins for a max of 2 hours. Luckily, tomorrow’s Sunday—free parking from 8:00 PM until Monday morning. After circling the neighborhood, I finally found a spot for my little car—even if it’s not mine, I still care about it...
The Thon Slottsparken Hotel is slightly off-center, but a little walking won’t hurt. The nearby Hertz agency was closed—too bad, I would’ve liked to complain about still not receiving my rental contract by email... With the nice weather, we started with a walking tour of the main sights: the palace, Karl Johans gate (the main street), and some souvenir shopping to fill the display cases back home—if there’s space. We also visited the deserted Akershus Fortress, where two poor young soldiers stood guard in the scorching sun. Below it, the World Cup final fan zone was being set up. Dinner was at Rorbua for 90 euros—ouch. Hard to find, tucked away from the harbor pier. We skipped the paid ascent of the city’s only "tower" with a panoramic view—tickets had to be paid by credit card, and given the fees my bank charges, I’d had enough. Note that card payments are widely accepted here, even for small amounts. When I tried to get change in cash for a 50-euro equivalent bill, some café owners were embarrassed.
DAY 4. After discussion, we planned the day: first up, one of Oslo’s must-sees, the Vigeland Sculpture Park, featuring bronze, granite, and cast-iron works by Gustav Vigeland (1869–1943). Given the distance, we took the tram—some cars still had their old-school charm!!!! Despite the early hour, hordes of Asian tourists were already there, making photo-taking a nightmare—same everywhere they go. The park is a matter of taste... The 17-meter monolith with 121 intertwined bodies is remarkable, and rightly so. Lazy, we took the tram again to save time—same name, tight schedule. I stopped by the Hertz agency, where the overwhelmed employee promised to try to help. Given his enthusiasm, I doubted it. From the start, I’ve really felt the welcome here, at least for French visitors, isn’t great. Remember my previous reports—it’s becoming a habit. Tourist brochures aren’t available in French here either—strange... Anyway, we took a relaxing fjord cruise. Besides the quirky opera house, the beautiful summer homes on the islands were really tempting. Next, with another paid boat, we headed to the Bygdøy peninsula and its museums. We skipped the Viking Ship Museum in favor of the Norwegian Folk Museum. It features different buildings from across the country, by era and region. Unfortunately, few actors in period costumes—common in this type of tourist attraction. Its real highlight is the stave church, very beautiful. On this late Sunday afternoon, bars and restaurants competed to become World Cup 2018 fan zones—crowds everywhere. So, we decided to head back to rest and catch a glimpse of the African French team against Croatia. It’ll go down in history: a 4-2 victory, with a beautiful goal by Lloris... Go "Les Bleus"—I get it...
DAY 5. Oslo to Bergen: 450 km, but with detours, it was nearly 550. The real journey begins. Departure at 7:00 AM after sleeping in and a mediocre breakfast. Arrival at 5:00 PM—yes, driving’s slow... More tolls, but under 26°C, the real beauty starts around Geilo. First real fjord—it’s stunning. Then those houses with vegetated roofs blending perfectly into the landscape, sometimes nearly invisible... (Not bad, right? And it’s all me!!!)
We also discovered tunnels with "indoor roundabouts" and underground roads crossing—never seen that before!! We followed the shores of Lake Tyrifjord and the Hallingdal valleys. After Geilo, views of the Hardangerjøkulen glacier (achoo!) and the Vøringfossen waterfall (Norway’s highest at 163 meters) and Steinsdalsfossen in the Hardangerfjord (the country’s second-longest). Bergen, Norway’s second city, is built between seven mountains. Aside from the colorful old docks along the wharf, there’s not much to see. At the market, stalls of fresh fish, jars of various fish eggs (all called "caviar" here), and cold cuts made from reindeer, moose, and whale.
For 10 euros per person, we queued for the steep funicular for a great view of the city. Dinner was at "Fish Me," very busy. The salmon looked appetizing, and my first whale steak for 27 euros was... interesting. Our hotel, Augustin, is near the center. They charged me 150 NOK to park in the nearby public lot...
DAY 6. Bøverdalen, our evening stop, was less than 300 km away, but along the way, we had our first two scenic routes and first ferry crossing. When I got back in the car, I noticed the seagulls—rightful tenants of the harbor—had turned it into a Picasso painting overnight... First stop in Voss to peek inside its Vangskyrkja church (for a fee). The mural icons all have a marked squint, making the angels on the ceiling smile—quite the original touch. In 1277, it shocked people.
Gudvangen at the end of the Nærøyfjord offers beautiful views and a waterfall. An 11 km tunnel took us to Aurland and the Sognefjord, the king of fjords at 180 km long. Then we took Route 243 to Lærdal instead of a second long tunnel. A 47 km very narrow road with no passing except in designated spots. Buses, RVs, and trailers were in the mix—between backing up and moving forward, how do you expect me to... pass? At some spots, I had to "burn some oil" (non-edible). The beautiful viewpoints along Jotunheimen Park and its high peaks were hard-earned.
By midday, the 26°C of previous days gave way to 11°C with downpours and gusts. To reach Kaupanger, its stave church, and Route 55 (108 km), we took the Fodnes-Mannheller ferry for 119 kr (about 13 euros) for a 20-minute crossing. For these short trips, rotations are frequent, and wait times are short. The Sognefjellet route took us along lakes and snow-capped peaks—too bad the weather wasn’t cooperating. In Bøverdalen, in the middle of nowhere, we reached the Elveseter Hotel, the only one in the area, and it was packed. Luckily, it’s big. Recent reviews had us a bit worried, but personally, all the well-maintained wooden buildings gave the place charm. Our two small, simple rooms had character, and the common areas’ decor was interesting—a pile of antiques... Unless you dine on-site (reservations required for one of two sittings), the only option is to drive 20 km to Lom to see its beautiful stave church—but we didn’t go in (7 euros per person, and that’s enough). Dinner was three pizzas for 70 euros—yes, it’s expensive here.
Note that in most establishments, bars, or restaurants, you have to order and pay at the counter yourself. A *stavkirke* or *stavkyrkje* (in Norwegian Bokmål and Nynorsk) is a medieval wooden church typical of Norway, though excavations suggest similar churches may have existed elsewhere in Northern Europe. About 1,300 medieval churches were recorded, with 28 preserved in Norway. In French, they’re called "églises en bois debout" (standing wood churches) because masts or posts support the roof and nave elevation, as well as the walls. The stave church is one of the most elaborate and technically advanced types of wooden construction in Northwestern Europe during the Middle Ages. This technique is represented by the Urnes Stave Church (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), Borgund (the best-preserved in its medieval form), and 25 others—from the largest, Heddal, to the smallest, Undredal, in the stunning Sognefjord, plus a few others in Northwestern Europe.
DAY 7. Heading to Trondheim—supposedly 320 km, but with detours, it was nearly 550. Unpredictable weather until about 1:00 PM, but it’s better because it’s the day of the "triples": 3 scenic routes, 3 ferries, and 3 "underwater" tunnels. No rush—here, there’s no need to "hurry to arrive before night" because as you head north, the sun lingers and sets less and less, eventually not setting at all. First, in Grotli, we took the 27 km of Route 258, *Gamle Strynefjellsvegen* (achoo), also very narrow and unpaved in the first section. Luckily, campers and RVs aren’t early risers—otherwise, I’d have had to make not just oil but olives this time. We only passed four other users. However, despite the early hour, local road workers were already on the job, and we had to ask the excavators to move several times to let us pass. At Langvatnet, we joined Route 63, called the Eagle Road here—mediocre, except for Geiranger at the end of the narrowest fjord in the country. A cruise ship had just unloaded its passengers, who rushed into the few shops. After the Eidsdal-Linge ferry (10 minutes) and Gudbrandsjuvet with its waterfalls, we tackled the famous Trollstigen (Troll’s Path), winding and very touristy. Coming from the south, we descended it. Mandatory photo stop at the tourist center and its impressive walkway. The descent into the valley was tough—the bus driver ahead of us must’ve been disabled, blind, and quadriplegic, taking two tries at every hairpin turn, causing a traffic jam behind and for those "going up" waiting at passing spots!!!
On Route 64, we took the Åfarnes-Solnes ferry instead of the initially planned 660 because my young passenger insisted on part of the "Atlantic Road." From what we’d read on blogs, only the last 11 km are spectacular, with arched bridges connecting islets. So, in Molde, we headed to Eide, then Vevang—beautiful but nothing more. The rain spoiled the scenery. Quick photo stop in Kristiansund, then a long underwater tunnel and the Kanestraum-Halsa ferry (7 km, 20 minutes) to reach the E39 toward Trondheim.
We all agreed that all these wooden houses and churches reminded us of the U.S. in their architecture—especially since, like there, a flagpole with the national flag often stands in front of homes. Trondheim, Norway’s third city, doesn’t have much to see. A university town in the country’s center, aside from its Nidaros Cathedral (closed when we arrived late), its wooden bridge, and colorful old docks on pilings—nothing else. Even finding food was complicated. As for accommodation, Booking.com had forgotten to mention that the Nidaros Pilgrimsgard is a "pilgrim hostel" on the Camino de Santiago. Monastic atmosphere and spartan rooms for reflection—same for the frugal breakfast in silence... Anyway... Luckily, the night before, in a kitschy place run by hip youngsters, I’d stocked up on a hearty assortment of marinated herring with aquavit that burned the rest of my esophagus. (BAKLANDET SKYDSSTATION) I’m really doing all the work for you...
DAY 8. Heading to Mo i Rana—633 km actually covered instead of the planned 480 through Nord-Trøndelag!!! After Steinkjer and its fjord, we decided to take Route 763, parallel to the E6, for less traffic and to see pretty mountain villages. We also stopped in Bola to see a petroglyph (Stone Age rock carving) of a reindeer. After Medja, we skipped Kjerringfoss and Europe’s largest salmon ladder (paid access). Instead, via the Holm-Vennesund ferry, we took a bit of the scenic Route 17 before reaching Mosjøen and Mo i Rana (too many ferries if you do the whole route). Along the way, we saw reindeer and moose relaxing on the road several times. Mo i Rana is small. The Ole Tobias Hotel was packed, and parking was complicated. For dinner, we crossed the street to "No. 3," the only option. Two spicy bacalao and a whale steak cost us 90 euros... At this rate, I had to find an ATM to finish the Norwegian stay properly. The 2,000 euros exchanged before leaving (at 9.28) were already partially gone. Cigarettes cost 13 euros a pack here—twice as much as in Sweden—while unleaded gas is 1.85 euros per liter.
DAY 9. Heading to the main event of the trip: the Lofoten Islands. First programming mistake: not studying the subject well, I preferred a shorter ferry crossing from further north on the mainland. But that also meant arriving further north on the islands.
I booked for 50 euros (vehicle, driver, and two passengers included on the official Torghatten Nord site) for Bognes-Lødingen—a one-hour crossing. I should’ve left from Bodø to Leknes or better yet Moskenes and the town of Å for three hours—it would’ve saved time by avoiding the drive north and crossing to the south before heading back up the islands. Luckily, we still managed two different routes. Fortunately, the great weather returned, and I have to say, IT’S REALLY, REALLY, REALLY... BEAUTIFUL... Memory cards are melting—not just from the heat.
Two things worked in our favor, if I may say so, and countered my little blunder: first, I’d booked the 2:30 PM ferry, but arriving at the departure at noon, we easily took the earlier one—two hours saved. With the longer crossings, rotations with only two boats are much less frequent (8 to 12 per day depending on the season, vs. 6 to 8 for the southern route). Second, after Mo i Rana, we crossed the Arctic Circle, and today, the sun only "sets" from 12:20 AM to 1:50 AM. What luck! With a 7:40 AM departure (after sleeping in), I could drive until 11:00 PM easy!!!!!! And cover only 740 km!!!!!! Here, winters don’t drop below zero, but from early November to late January, it’s night almost all the time, with a supposed daylight clarity from 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM like a rainy day back home. But apparently, the northern lights and reflections on the snow also provide light!! I’d love to see that, but I’ll have to come back... We crisscrossed everything humanly possible, sometimes stopping abruptly in the middle of the road for photos—much to the locals’ dismay, but they’re used to the madness of temporary invaders enchanted by the place... These steep mountains "falling" into the water with all those colorful "rorbu" villages are magnificent. Rorbu are traditional fishermen’s cabins on stilts by the water, which over time have become the must-stay accommodation here—many have never housed any fishermen!!! The villages follow one after another, each more beautiful than the last. In Nusfjord, in season, pedestrians are even charged an access fee between 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM. At 7:00 PM, the booth was closed—lucky us, no crowd. The ochre wooden facades are beautiful, but don’t get too close—the seagulls nest there and see any approach as aggression. The result? Bomb-like droppings that can leave unpleasant memories. Go peek inside the grocery store—it’s kept its old-world charm. With the season, the many cod drying racks are empty. The hour turned, and our southward journey stopped in Reine—too bad for Å, not far, but fatigue got the better of me. We had to "go back up" to Kabelvåg for our rorbu at Nyvågar. We’d stocked up on groceries to eat quietly in this cozy little place (very small single beds upstairs).
DAY 10. We headed back north on the islands to reach Tromsø (grandiosely nicknamed the "Paris of the North"), with a late 7:50 AM departure despite 450 km to cover—things are getting lax at the end of the trip!!! However, this stop didn’t reveal much of interest—it’s the lake region, but meh. Tour operators include it as the last stop toward the far north. Aside from the Målselvfossen waterfall and its (paid) salmon ladder, nothing to report. We arrived at 3:00 PM, and the second room in our Quality Saga Hotel wasn’t ready yet. Plus, the parking we’d requested wasn’t accessible—the eight spots were taken. Even in this small town, free and easy parking is rare. Two souvenir shops and a main street (Storgata)—that’s it. Not to mention a nice storm that cooled things down. The only curiosity is the church, but it’s closed and under renovation—the exterior scaffolding ruins the only photo opportunity here. Otherwise, the Arctic Cathedral is visible from afar—that’s enough for us. The sun only sets for 20 minutes, from 12:40 AM to 1:00 AM!!!!! Last note before leaving this country: every morning at the breakfast buffet with all those eggs, I asked for a Norwegian omelet. Believe it or not, they don’t know the recipe for a Norwegian omelet!!!! 😏😛😉
DAY 11. Heading to Finland (with an extra hour time difference) and Rovaniemi, self-proclaimed official Santa Claus Village—it’s not nice to play on kids’ heartstrings for money!!!! On the 400 km of road (that or avoiding the Lofoten), nothing to see except two sad "Sami" shops. But there’s also AND ESPECIALLY: The run-in with a police radar mounted on the dashboard to welcome me to this country: alone, on a straight, flat road in the middle of the forest, I had this privilege—especially at a spot limited to 80 km/h instead of 100 as I thought. Of course, most well-meaning readers will think: serves him right... Only here’s the thing: in Finland, for years, speeding fines depend on the "Päiväsakko," meaning based on your income and number of children, a subtle calculation of average daily money is made and multiplied proportionally to the estimated severity of the offense... Ignorant of this, I naively but honestly answered the questions. The result? The fine was enormous—I won’t say the amount out of shame, but especially out of hatred for this country that ruined my vacation. Others like me, potential murderers, have been fined up to 170,000 euros (I wrote ONE HUNDRED SEVENTY THOUSAND EUROS) for a 40 km/h speeding offense!!!! I hope the clowns running France quickly adopt this particularly SOCIAL measure. Let the lazy and parasites of the country freely enjoy the road in their BMWs and MERCs!!! Let me tell you, I’ll spend my savings elsewhere in the future. So, a tip: be as dishonest as these conscientious police—say you’re unemployed with five kids, and maybe they’ll give you money!!!!! I’m really disgusted. No wonder in this nothing-to-see town, drivers sheepishly drive in a "little train" at 40 behind an RV without anyone daring to overtake. I think sometimes human stupidity should have limits, and the word freedom should regain its meaning!!! To those who understand, cheers. And as written at the start: trolls, abstain. I stand by what I said and sign it. After this brutal introduction to Finnish discriminatory laws, you can imagine Rovaniemi and its two-bit Santa Claus—I couldn’t care less. Even under the storm, at 6:00 PM on Sunday, even in summer, the scammer shops and profiteers of the Santa Claus Village (conveniently located on the Arctic Circle...) were already closed. Good riddance!!! The Arctic City Hotel is fine. I struggled to swallow my Tex-Mex at Pancho Villa (local chain).
DAY 12. Toward Oulu via Tornio, 200 km, and again, nothing to see in this land of lakes and forests. Detour and only photo stop in Tervola for a wooden church—my vacation is officially ruined... The Cumulus City Hotel is fine in this pleasant but empty and dull city, though it’s a university and tech hub. To cheer myself up, we splurged on a supposedly Viking meal at Harald—don’t know if the recipes are authentic, but my "Viking" knowledge stops at Vik, the animated boobs... Anyway, it’s good, unusual, and hearty.
DAY 13. After struggling to fill the tank (no station open with cash payment, only cards), we returned the chariot at the airport. The offices weren’t open yet at this early hour (8:35 AM flight), so I left the key in a mailbox without any inspection—I didn’t like that at all. I thought we’d get a propeller plane, but it was a well-filled Airbus. One-hour flight to Helsinki, the capital. Impossible to get clear information on buses to the city center, 40 km away. So, for 37 euros, we took a taxi with a trunk big enough for our three suitcases and three "cabin" bags. I’m not counting the cost anymore. At 10:00 AM, we could finally check into our large triple room at the Cumulus City Hotel on Hakaniemi Square—again, despite the size, with a fold-out armchair bed. Off to visit our last city, with the obvious purchase—you guessed it—a 24-hour bus ticket with a 1.5-hour mini-cruise for 43 euros per person...
The boat tour showed that the standard of living seems high here too—summer homes (or not) on the islands are very beautiful. A small canal was even dug to save these lucky owners time on maritime transport. Apartments sell for a fortune. Back at Market Square, we grabbed a snack at the market—a reindeer kebab with dried reindeer, cheese, and a mini cracker—simple but delicious. No time to waste—ours is limited. Even if there’s not much to see tourist-wise. Four churches compete: the very busy and beautiful Helsinki Cathedral (better outside than in), its direct rival the Orthodox Uspenski Cathedral (same), the Rock Church (Temppeliaukio) and the Wooden Church (Kampin)—both as beautiful inside as out!!! Here too, very little car traffic, but tons of people—tourists or not—and joggers. In the evening, a bit tired, we headed to the off-center hotel to try the Scandinavian Hesburger chain. For connoisseurs and 29 euros, decent fries and burgers resembling Burger King’s—while the other American giant is left behind. Personal taste, I guess. The next day, we took the bus tour again, passing the Parliament and the controversial Sibelius Monument—a 24-ton pile of clanging iron pipes. Then, to kill time, we headed to Linnanmäki amusement park, on a hill overlooking the city. Rides are packed together, and a new one appears every year. Mostly family-oriented, but two or three thrill rides were packed. Despite my advancing age, I gave it a try—obviously regretted it afterward... Europe’s oldest wooden roller coaster (1950) shows the genius of its creators, with a brakeman at the back—worth the detour and passes the time. We ate (if you can call it that) on-site for 19 euros. Back "in town," classic shopping centers are numerous, but souvenir shops can be counted on one hand. No matter—we had to pack because tomorrow’s the return. We ate burgers again near the hotel and Hes... but served at the table for 67 euros. The next morning, to kill time before the 4:00 PM flight, we went to the port and its tourist market, where I splurged 15 euros on a cap to add to (or clutter) my already well-stocked collection. We finally learned that bus 615 goes to the airport, with a stop in front of our hotel where the luggage was left in storage after checking out. Still, count 40 minutes with this indirect route. Via an Air France flight operated by Finnair, after 3 hours, we returned to Roissy CDG—our vacation is truly over!!!!!!
CONCLUSION (if I may) Among the three capitals we visited, our unanimous ranking is: Oslo, Helsinki, and Stockholm—period. Despite a few imperfections in my itinerary, I’d say the Lofoten Islands are really worth it—two days on-site is a minimum. Finland, and not just because of the radars, is way below—nothing to see tourist-wise. I didn’t say nothing to do for those with time—nuance... Norwegian fjords, even if once you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all, are really beautiful, though this destination is quite expensive for us. Norway, thanks to its oil and gas, is very wealthy, near full employment, with an annual GDP per capita of 70,000 euros!!! A pack of cigarettes at 13 euros and beer at 10 euros doesn’t make this a dream destination for an addict like me. We were very lucky with the weather—only two and a half days of rain over 14, unlike many bloggers whose stories I read before leaving. The welcome wasn’t always what we expected. Despite the massive French presence, we’re not always as welcome as Asian conquerors, to whom the West, racing to its doom, continues to roll out the red carpet—literally! I don’t regret our choice—it’s worth seeing once, but only once. At least now we know what we’re talking about!!!!! Finally, as always, here’s the link to my public slideshow on YouTube. For the private one, some spicy scenes (especially with Santa and a troll) could cause me more problems—I’ve had enough!!! www.youtube.com/...zbIgZC6Pk&t=165s See you soon, maybe for new adventures and getaways. DJ93.
For the summer holidays of 2018, we decided to take a break from long-haul, transcontinental trips. They’re expensive and exhausting, and this year, we also had to consider our young student’s limited vacation days. So, it was a short 14-day circuit in Scandinavia. Very quickly, I had to abandon the unrealistic idea of driving door-to-door with our personal car (unlike last year—see my "Balkan Stroll" story). Too many kilometers and stops. Still, crossing Poland, Lithuania, Estonia, and Latvia before taking a ferry from Tallinn to Helsinki and Finland was tempting—what a shame.
As usual, I planned ahead and started booking in early February for a mid-July departure, typically the best time weather-wise for this destination. Browsing tour operator catalogs didn’t offer much insight—just the usual circuits. Most aim for the North Cape, but we didn’t have time for that. First, via Expedia, we booked our flight tickets: Paris to Stockholm, Helsinki to Paris for the return (880 euros for three), plus a domestic flight from Oulu to Helsinki in Finland (220 euros). The unanimous advice was that there’s not much to see between the two cities, so this saved us a night’s accommodation and a day of car rental. However, the "drop-off" fees (not returning the car to the country of origin) were unavoidable. Out of 1,100 euros for 12 days of rental, this fee was significant—I say this from memory because I never received a detailed document or even the contract itself after picking up the car, despite my complaints. That said, Holiday Autos offered the best rates at the time with Hertz. Plus, I think we were unknowingly upgraded to a Volvo XC 40 T5 automatic, packed with electronics and an incredibly efficient GPS (so I lugged around my updated TomTom for nothing). I wasn’t used to it, and I’ll come back to that. For 50 euros, I also booked one of the many mandatory ferry crossings in Norway—unless you want to drive kilometers around the countless fjords. Specifically, the Bognes-Lødingen route to reach the Lofoten Islands, a must-see in Norway (though not necessarily the best choice I made—I’ll come back to that). Then, gradually via Booking.com, I reserved hotel accommodations, which wasn’t easy at reasonable prices. For three people, it’s nearly impossible to find a room with three real beds—often a sofa bed or even two separate rooms!!!! Norway isn’t a budget-friendly destination for us, yet French tourists are everywhere—groups or families traveling independently. Okay, you’re probably wondering when I’ll get started—I’m getting there... First up, Stockholm, a two-hour flight from Paris. A first for us: we’d gotten used to online check-in within 30 hours of the flight and sometimes printing our boarding passes. But, as progress never stops, at Roissy, we now also print our baggage tags at a kiosk, then place them on the conveyor belt ourselves, scan the barcode with the handheld scanner, and watch the luggage disappear—hoping it doesn’t get misrouted. With all this reduced staff, I hope ticket prices will drop. What? Huh? I’m naive... Okay, fine! Plus, during the flight, don’t expect any snacks—everything’s paid for now, except for water and coffee. I didn’t think I was on a low-cost flight!!! Picking up the car at Arlanda Airport went smoothly, except the contract signed on a tablet (progress, right?) was never emailed to me as promised—too bad... The Volvo SUV packed with electronics: as usual, aside from adjusting the mirrors and seat, I didn’t bother learning all the features and accessories for better handling. So, from the start, I felt jerky movements in the steering, independent of my control. The white-line detection was activated and corrected my direction whenever I got too close... And that’s not all—there’s also driving assistance. Besides the speed limiter, the car accelerates or brakes on its own based on the distance from the vehicle ahead. You still have to keep your hands on the wheel, though—too bad, we could’ve played cards and let it drive itself. When you slow down, if you signal to overtake and turn the wheel, it accelerates to pass. Soon, we won’t even need a driver’s license... Not to mention the little light in the side mirror to signal vehicles in the "blind spot"—very useful. But given the excessively strict speed limits in these parts, it’s still handy. I’ll unfortunately come back to this later!!!!!! In the end, we covered 4,700 km in 8 days of actual travel—no small feat!!!!!! Stockholm: still loyal to the hop-on-hop-off sightseeing buses (or the reverse), I booked our tickets online with a discount. It remains (for us) one of the best ways to visit and get around big cities. The tourist attractions aren’t that numerous. Forty kilometers from the airport, we reached our hotel, Clarion Amaranten. At reception, we were told our reservation was for four days, not two. I insisted, and they told me to call Booking.com to fix it—they couldn’t do anything themselves. Luckily, a nice blonde understood the situation and asked where we were from to lighten the mood. For me, it worked... After a few minutes of back-and-forth, we realized a namesake had booked at the same time. I think the intern got mixed up—oh well. We finally dropped off our bags and headed out under the sun for the included boat tour. It’s beautiful and relaxing under 26°C. We glided past massive cruise ships, very common in these Nordic countries, especially for fjord tours.
We passed Djurgården, one of the city’s 14 islands, home to the Tivoli amusement park and several museums, including the ABBA Museum and the Vasa Museum. I’m not talking about the crispy sandwiches sold since 1919 but the infamous warship that sank in the harbor on its maiden voyage in 1628 after sailing just a few hundred meters. Its intact hull was salvaged in 1961, and since then, it’s one of Sweden’s most visited museums. The country is a quarter smaller than France and has 10 million inhabitants, mostly in the three big cities (Stockholm, Gothenburg, Malmö). The rest is empty, filled with lakes and forests. The currency is the krona, with 1 euro worth about 10 SEK. Dinner in the Old Town consisted of a so-called Viking burger (more like a kebab) and meatballs—the famous Swedish meatballs with potatoes, just like at IKEA... I have to say, here, it seems the Vikings have long been just blond heads—I get it... It still cost us 550 SEK. A beer alone costs at least 9 euros!!!!
DAY 2. Sunny skies. After a hearty buffet breakfast with salmon, herring in all forms, eggs, cold cuts, bread, and pastries (don’t worry, the classics are there), we started the day by visiting the City Hall tower, famous for hosting the Nobel Prizes (except the Peace Prize, awarded in Oslo). At 106 meters tall, with 365 steps and 9 clocks, it weighs twice as much as the Eiffel Tower. Access is at fixed times in small groups for safety. You can climb up to 73 meters for a 360° view of the city. Next, we visited the Royal Palace, still the official residence of the King of Sweden, and its Treasury (entry: 160 SEK). We skipped the 12:15 PM changing of the guard—three-quarters of an hour before, dozens of onlookers were already crowding the front rows in the sun.
So, we took our favorite bus to rest a bit and tour the city. We also took the subway to see several "decorated" stations—love it or hate it, but it’s original. In the late afternoon, we returned to the Old Town and its Gamla Stan to find some souvenirs, even if it feels more like Bollywood than Viking country, complete with music in the shops—a nice sign of integration... One of the first things that surprised us was the very light car traffic—no traffic jams in this capital. But there are tons of electric and regular bikes, skateboards, and scooters. Also, lots of roadwork and housing construction—apparently a big need. For dinner (our only meal of the day), we treated ourselves to something local at Borgmästaren (Stora Nygatan 35). DECIDEDLY, I’M TELLING YOU EVERYTHING...
DAYS 3 & 4. Contrary to what I was told upon arrival, the hotel parking (700 SEK for 2 nights) didn’t open at 7:00 AM but at 9:00 AM on Saturday. After having to call myself (the French-speaking African receptionist couldn’t do it for me, especially after I told him I thought Croatia would win against France in the World Cup final), the kind parking attendant (partnered with the hotel—there’s the catch) arrived early and let us leave at 8:30 AM to start our east-to-west route to Norway and Oslo, 530 km away, finally beginning our summer adventure. At the border, absolutely no checks, and on the road, aside from lakes and forests, not much to see. However, tolls are very common—don’t overlook this in your budget. In Sweden, everything’s covered by the rental company, but not in other countries. In Norway, there are many automatic toll sections—cameras film your license plate and send you the bill later. So, you must register online at www.epcplc.com/rental, with or without your credit card details, and wait for the final bill. As of now, I haven’t received it, but after noting almost all of them, it should easily reach 200 euros. Roads, tunnels, and bridges are often toll-based to fund maintenance or new constructions. We reached the Norwegian capital at 3:00 PM and checked into our room. Small hiccup: the hotel parking, not reservable, was full on Saturday. Parking meters only take coins for a max of 2 hours. Luckily, tomorrow’s Sunday—free parking from 8:00 PM until Monday morning. After circling the neighborhood, I finally found a spot for my little car—even if it’s not mine, I still care about it...
The Thon Slottsparken Hotel is slightly off-center, but a little walking won’t hurt. The nearby Hertz agency was closed—too bad, I would’ve liked to complain about still not receiving my rental contract by email... With the nice weather, we started with a walking tour of the main sights: the palace, Karl Johans gate (the main street), and some souvenir shopping to fill the display cases back home—if there’s space. We also visited the deserted Akershus Fortress, where two poor young soldiers stood guard in the scorching sun. Below it, the World Cup final fan zone was being set up. Dinner was at Rorbua for 90 euros—ouch. Hard to find, tucked away from the harbor pier. We skipped the paid ascent of the city’s only "tower" with a panoramic view—tickets had to be paid by credit card, and given the fees my bank charges, I’d had enough. Note that card payments are widely accepted here, even for small amounts. When I tried to get change in cash for a 50-euro equivalent bill, some café owners were embarrassed.
DAY 4. After discussion, we planned the day: first up, one of Oslo’s must-sees, the Vigeland Sculpture Park, featuring bronze, granite, and cast-iron works by Gustav Vigeland (1869–1943). Given the distance, we took the tram—some cars still had their old-school charm!!!! Despite the early hour, hordes of Asian tourists were already there, making photo-taking a nightmare—same everywhere they go. The park is a matter of taste... The 17-meter monolith with 121 intertwined bodies is remarkable, and rightly so. Lazy, we took the tram again to save time—same name, tight schedule. I stopped by the Hertz agency, where the overwhelmed employee promised to try to help. Given his enthusiasm, I doubted it. From the start, I’ve really felt the welcome here, at least for French visitors, isn’t great. Remember my previous reports—it’s becoming a habit. Tourist brochures aren’t available in French here either—strange... Anyway, we took a relaxing fjord cruise. Besides the quirky opera house, the beautiful summer homes on the islands were really tempting. Next, with another paid boat, we headed to the Bygdøy peninsula and its museums. We skipped the Viking Ship Museum in favor of the Norwegian Folk Museum. It features different buildings from across the country, by era and region. Unfortunately, few actors in period costumes—common in this type of tourist attraction. Its real highlight is the stave church, very beautiful. On this late Sunday afternoon, bars and restaurants competed to become World Cup 2018 fan zones—crowds everywhere. So, we decided to head back to rest and catch a glimpse of the African French team against Croatia. It’ll go down in history: a 4-2 victory, with a beautiful goal by Lloris... Go "Les Bleus"—I get it...
DAY 5. Oslo to Bergen: 450 km, but with detours, it was nearly 550. The real journey begins. Departure at 7:00 AM after sleeping in and a mediocre breakfast. Arrival at 5:00 PM—yes, driving’s slow... More tolls, but under 26°C, the real beauty starts around Geilo. First real fjord—it’s stunning. Then those houses with vegetated roofs blending perfectly into the landscape, sometimes nearly invisible... (Not bad, right? And it’s all me!!!)
We also discovered tunnels with "indoor roundabouts" and underground roads crossing—never seen that before!! We followed the shores of Lake Tyrifjord and the Hallingdal valleys. After Geilo, views of the Hardangerjøkulen glacier (achoo!) and the Vøringfossen waterfall (Norway’s highest at 163 meters) and Steinsdalsfossen in the Hardangerfjord (the country’s second-longest). Bergen, Norway’s second city, is built between seven mountains. Aside from the colorful old docks along the wharf, there’s not much to see. At the market, stalls of fresh fish, jars of various fish eggs (all called "caviar" here), and cold cuts made from reindeer, moose, and whale.
For 10 euros per person, we queued for the steep funicular for a great view of the city. Dinner was at "Fish Me," very busy. The salmon looked appetizing, and my first whale steak for 27 euros was... interesting. Our hotel, Augustin, is near the center. They charged me 150 NOK to park in the nearby public lot...
DAY 6. Bøverdalen, our evening stop, was less than 300 km away, but along the way, we had our first two scenic routes and first ferry crossing. When I got back in the car, I noticed the seagulls—rightful tenants of the harbor—had turned it into a Picasso painting overnight... First stop in Voss to peek inside its Vangskyrkja church (for a fee). The mural icons all have a marked squint, making the angels on the ceiling smile—quite the original touch. In 1277, it shocked people.
Gudvangen at the end of the Nærøyfjord offers beautiful views and a waterfall. An 11 km tunnel took us to Aurland and the Sognefjord, the king of fjords at 180 km long. Then we took Route 243 to Lærdal instead of a second long tunnel. A 47 km very narrow road with no passing except in designated spots. Buses, RVs, and trailers were in the mix—between backing up and moving forward, how do you expect me to... pass? At some spots, I had to "burn some oil" (non-edible). The beautiful viewpoints along Jotunheimen Park and its high peaks were hard-earned.
By midday, the 26°C of previous days gave way to 11°C with downpours and gusts. To reach Kaupanger, its stave church, and Route 55 (108 km), we took the Fodnes-Mannheller ferry for 119 kr (about 13 euros) for a 20-minute crossing. For these short trips, rotations are frequent, and wait times are short. The Sognefjellet route took us along lakes and snow-capped peaks—too bad the weather wasn’t cooperating. In Bøverdalen, in the middle of nowhere, we reached the Elveseter Hotel, the only one in the area, and it was packed. Luckily, it’s big. Recent reviews had us a bit worried, but personally, all the well-maintained wooden buildings gave the place charm. Our two small, simple rooms had character, and the common areas’ decor was interesting—a pile of antiques... Unless you dine on-site (reservations required for one of two sittings), the only option is to drive 20 km to Lom to see its beautiful stave church—but we didn’t go in (7 euros per person, and that’s enough). Dinner was three pizzas for 70 euros—yes, it’s expensive here.
Note that in most establishments, bars, or restaurants, you have to order and pay at the counter yourself. A *stavkirke* or *stavkyrkje* (in Norwegian Bokmål and Nynorsk) is a medieval wooden church typical of Norway, though excavations suggest similar churches may have existed elsewhere in Northern Europe. About 1,300 medieval churches were recorded, with 28 preserved in Norway. In French, they’re called "églises en bois debout" (standing wood churches) because masts or posts support the roof and nave elevation, as well as the walls. The stave church is one of the most elaborate and technically advanced types of wooden construction in Northwestern Europe during the Middle Ages. This technique is represented by the Urnes Stave Church (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), Borgund (the best-preserved in its medieval form), and 25 others—from the largest, Heddal, to the smallest, Undredal, in the stunning Sognefjord, plus a few others in Northwestern Europe.
DAY 7. Heading to Trondheim—supposedly 320 km, but with detours, it was nearly 550. Unpredictable weather until about 1:00 PM, but it’s better because it’s the day of the "triples": 3 scenic routes, 3 ferries, and 3 "underwater" tunnels. No rush—here, there’s no need to "hurry to arrive before night" because as you head north, the sun lingers and sets less and less, eventually not setting at all. First, in Grotli, we took the 27 km of Route 258, *Gamle Strynefjellsvegen* (achoo), also very narrow and unpaved in the first section. Luckily, campers and RVs aren’t early risers—otherwise, I’d have had to make not just oil but olives this time. We only passed four other users. However, despite the early hour, local road workers were already on the job, and we had to ask the excavators to move several times to let us pass. At Langvatnet, we joined Route 63, called the Eagle Road here—mediocre, except for Geiranger at the end of the narrowest fjord in the country. A cruise ship had just unloaded its passengers, who rushed into the few shops. After the Eidsdal-Linge ferry (10 minutes) and Gudbrandsjuvet with its waterfalls, we tackled the famous Trollstigen (Troll’s Path), winding and very touristy. Coming from the south, we descended it. Mandatory photo stop at the tourist center and its impressive walkway. The descent into the valley was tough—the bus driver ahead of us must’ve been disabled, blind, and quadriplegic, taking two tries at every hairpin turn, causing a traffic jam behind and for those "going up" waiting at passing spots!!!
On Route 64, we took the Åfarnes-Solnes ferry instead of the initially planned 660 because my young passenger insisted on part of the "Atlantic Road." From what we’d read on blogs, only the last 11 km are spectacular, with arched bridges connecting islets. So, in Molde, we headed to Eide, then Vevang—beautiful but nothing more. The rain spoiled the scenery. Quick photo stop in Kristiansund, then a long underwater tunnel and the Kanestraum-Halsa ferry (7 km, 20 minutes) to reach the E39 toward Trondheim.
We all agreed that all these wooden houses and churches reminded us of the U.S. in their architecture—especially since, like there, a flagpole with the national flag often stands in front of homes. Trondheim, Norway’s third city, doesn’t have much to see. A university town in the country’s center, aside from its Nidaros Cathedral (closed when we arrived late), its wooden bridge, and colorful old docks on pilings—nothing else. Even finding food was complicated. As for accommodation, Booking.com had forgotten to mention that the Nidaros Pilgrimsgard is a "pilgrim hostel" on the Camino de Santiago. Monastic atmosphere and spartan rooms for reflection—same for the frugal breakfast in silence... Anyway... Luckily, the night before, in a kitschy place run by hip youngsters, I’d stocked up on a hearty assortment of marinated herring with aquavit that burned the rest of my esophagus. (BAKLANDET SKYDSSTATION) I’m really doing all the work for you...
DAY 8. Heading to Mo i Rana—633 km actually covered instead of the planned 480 through Nord-Trøndelag!!! After Steinkjer and its fjord, we decided to take Route 763, parallel to the E6, for less traffic and to see pretty mountain villages. We also stopped in Bola to see a petroglyph (Stone Age rock carving) of a reindeer. After Medja, we skipped Kjerringfoss and Europe’s largest salmon ladder (paid access). Instead, via the Holm-Vennesund ferry, we took a bit of the scenic Route 17 before reaching Mosjøen and Mo i Rana (too many ferries if you do the whole route). Along the way, we saw reindeer and moose relaxing on the road several times. Mo i Rana is small. The Ole Tobias Hotel was packed, and parking was complicated. For dinner, we crossed the street to "No. 3," the only option. Two spicy bacalao and a whale steak cost us 90 euros... At this rate, I had to find an ATM to finish the Norwegian stay properly. The 2,000 euros exchanged before leaving (at 9.28) were already partially gone. Cigarettes cost 13 euros a pack here—twice as much as in Sweden—while unleaded gas is 1.85 euros per liter.
DAY 9. Heading to the main event of the trip: the Lofoten Islands. First programming mistake: not studying the subject well, I preferred a shorter ferry crossing from further north on the mainland. But that also meant arriving further north on the islands.
I booked for 50 euros (vehicle, driver, and two passengers included on the official Torghatten Nord site) for Bognes-Lødingen—a one-hour crossing. I should’ve left from Bodø to Leknes or better yet Moskenes and the town of Å for three hours—it would’ve saved time by avoiding the drive north and crossing to the south before heading back up the islands. Luckily, we still managed two different routes. Fortunately, the great weather returned, and I have to say, IT’S REALLY, REALLY, REALLY... BEAUTIFUL... Memory cards are melting—not just from the heat.
Two things worked in our favor, if I may say so, and countered my little blunder: first, I’d booked the 2:30 PM ferry, but arriving at the departure at noon, we easily took the earlier one—two hours saved. With the longer crossings, rotations with only two boats are much less frequent (8 to 12 per day depending on the season, vs. 6 to 8 for the southern route). Second, after Mo i Rana, we crossed the Arctic Circle, and today, the sun only "sets" from 12:20 AM to 1:50 AM. What luck! With a 7:40 AM departure (after sleeping in), I could drive until 11:00 PM easy!!!!!! And cover only 740 km!!!!!! Here, winters don’t drop below zero, but from early November to late January, it’s night almost all the time, with a supposed daylight clarity from 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM like a rainy day back home. But apparently, the northern lights and reflections on the snow also provide light!! I’d love to see that, but I’ll have to come back... We crisscrossed everything humanly possible, sometimes stopping abruptly in the middle of the road for photos—much to the locals’ dismay, but they’re used to the madness of temporary invaders enchanted by the place... These steep mountains "falling" into the water with all those colorful "rorbu" villages are magnificent. Rorbu are traditional fishermen’s cabins on stilts by the water, which over time have become the must-stay accommodation here—many have never housed any fishermen!!! The villages follow one after another, each more beautiful than the last. In Nusfjord, in season, pedestrians are even charged an access fee between 10:00 AM and 6:00 PM. At 7:00 PM, the booth was closed—lucky us, no crowd. The ochre wooden facades are beautiful, but don’t get too close—the seagulls nest there and see any approach as aggression. The result? Bomb-like droppings that can leave unpleasant memories. Go peek inside the grocery store—it’s kept its old-world charm. With the season, the many cod drying racks are empty. The hour turned, and our southward journey stopped in Reine—too bad for Å, not far, but fatigue got the better of me. We had to "go back up" to Kabelvåg for our rorbu at Nyvågar. We’d stocked up on groceries to eat quietly in this cozy little place (very small single beds upstairs).
DAY 10. We headed back north on the islands to reach Tromsø (grandiosely nicknamed the "Paris of the North"), with a late 7:50 AM departure despite 450 km to cover—things are getting lax at the end of the trip!!! However, this stop didn’t reveal much of interest—it’s the lake region, but meh. Tour operators include it as the last stop toward the far north. Aside from the Målselvfossen waterfall and its (paid) salmon ladder, nothing to report. We arrived at 3:00 PM, and the second room in our Quality Saga Hotel wasn’t ready yet. Plus, the parking we’d requested wasn’t accessible—the eight spots were taken. Even in this small town, free and easy parking is rare. Two souvenir shops and a main street (Storgata)—that’s it. Not to mention a nice storm that cooled things down. The only curiosity is the church, but it’s closed and under renovation—the exterior scaffolding ruins the only photo opportunity here. Otherwise, the Arctic Cathedral is visible from afar—that’s enough for us. The sun only sets for 20 minutes, from 12:40 AM to 1:00 AM!!!!! Last note before leaving this country: every morning at the breakfast buffet with all those eggs, I asked for a Norwegian omelet. Believe it or not, they don’t know the recipe for a Norwegian omelet!!!! 😏😛😉
DAY 11. Heading to Finland (with an extra hour time difference) and Rovaniemi, self-proclaimed official Santa Claus Village—it’s not nice to play on kids’ heartstrings for money!!!! On the 400 km of road (that or avoiding the Lofoten), nothing to see except two sad "Sami" shops. But there’s also AND ESPECIALLY: The run-in with a police radar mounted on the dashboard to welcome me to this country: alone, on a straight, flat road in the middle of the forest, I had this privilege—especially at a spot limited to 80 km/h instead of 100 as I thought. Of course, most well-meaning readers will think: serves him right... Only here’s the thing: in Finland, for years, speeding fines depend on the "Päiväsakko," meaning based on your income and number of children, a subtle calculation of average daily money is made and multiplied proportionally to the estimated severity of the offense... Ignorant of this, I naively but honestly answered the questions. The result? The fine was enormous—I won’t say the amount out of shame, but especially out of hatred for this country that ruined my vacation. Others like me, potential murderers, have been fined up to 170,000 euros (I wrote ONE HUNDRED SEVENTY THOUSAND EUROS) for a 40 km/h speeding offense!!!! I hope the clowns running France quickly adopt this particularly SOCIAL measure. Let the lazy and parasites of the country freely enjoy the road in their BMWs and MERCs!!! Let me tell you, I’ll spend my savings elsewhere in the future. So, a tip: be as dishonest as these conscientious police—say you’re unemployed with five kids, and maybe they’ll give you money!!!!! I’m really disgusted. No wonder in this nothing-to-see town, drivers sheepishly drive in a "little train" at 40 behind an RV without anyone daring to overtake. I think sometimes human stupidity should have limits, and the word freedom should regain its meaning!!! To those who understand, cheers. And as written at the start: trolls, abstain. I stand by what I said and sign it. After this brutal introduction to Finnish discriminatory laws, you can imagine Rovaniemi and its two-bit Santa Claus—I couldn’t care less. Even under the storm, at 6:00 PM on Sunday, even in summer, the scammer shops and profiteers of the Santa Claus Village (conveniently located on the Arctic Circle...) were already closed. Good riddance!!! The Arctic City Hotel is fine. I struggled to swallow my Tex-Mex at Pancho Villa (local chain).
DAY 12. Toward Oulu via Tornio, 200 km, and again, nothing to see in this land of lakes and forests. Detour and only photo stop in Tervola for a wooden church—my vacation is officially ruined... The Cumulus City Hotel is fine in this pleasant but empty and dull city, though it’s a university and tech hub. To cheer myself up, we splurged on a supposedly Viking meal at Harald—don’t know if the recipes are authentic, but my "Viking" knowledge stops at Vik, the animated boobs... Anyway, it’s good, unusual, and hearty.
DAY 13. After struggling to fill the tank (no station open with cash payment, only cards), we returned the chariot at the airport. The offices weren’t open yet at this early hour (8:35 AM flight), so I left the key in a mailbox without any inspection—I didn’t like that at all. I thought we’d get a propeller plane, but it was a well-filled Airbus. One-hour flight to Helsinki, the capital. Impossible to get clear information on buses to the city center, 40 km away. So, for 37 euros, we took a taxi with a trunk big enough for our three suitcases and three "cabin" bags. I’m not counting the cost anymore. At 10:00 AM, we could finally check into our large triple room at the Cumulus City Hotel on Hakaniemi Square—again, despite the size, with a fold-out armchair bed. Off to visit our last city, with the obvious purchase—you guessed it—a 24-hour bus ticket with a 1.5-hour mini-cruise for 43 euros per person...
The boat tour showed that the standard of living seems high here too—summer homes (or not) on the islands are very beautiful. A small canal was even dug to save these lucky owners time on maritime transport. Apartments sell for a fortune. Back at Market Square, we grabbed a snack at the market—a reindeer kebab with dried reindeer, cheese, and a mini cracker—simple but delicious. No time to waste—ours is limited. Even if there’s not much to see tourist-wise. Four churches compete: the very busy and beautiful Helsinki Cathedral (better outside than in), its direct rival the Orthodox Uspenski Cathedral (same), the Rock Church (Temppeliaukio) and the Wooden Church (Kampin)—both as beautiful inside as out!!! Here too, very little car traffic, but tons of people—tourists or not—and joggers. In the evening, a bit tired, we headed to the off-center hotel to try the Scandinavian Hesburger chain. For connoisseurs and 29 euros, decent fries and burgers resembling Burger King’s—while the other American giant is left behind. Personal taste, I guess. The next day, we took the bus tour again, passing the Parliament and the controversial Sibelius Monument—a 24-ton pile of clanging iron pipes. Then, to kill time, we headed to Linnanmäki amusement park, on a hill overlooking the city. Rides are packed together, and a new one appears every year. Mostly family-oriented, but two or three thrill rides were packed. Despite my advancing age, I gave it a try—obviously regretted it afterward... Europe’s oldest wooden roller coaster (1950) shows the genius of its creators, with a brakeman at the back—worth the detour and passes the time. We ate (if you can call it that) on-site for 19 euros. Back "in town," classic shopping centers are numerous, but souvenir shops can be counted on one hand. No matter—we had to pack because tomorrow’s the return. We ate burgers again near the hotel and Hes... but served at the table for 67 euros. The next morning, to kill time before the 4:00 PM flight, we went to the port and its tourist market, where I splurged 15 euros on a cap to add to (or clutter) my already well-stocked collection. We finally learned that bus 615 goes to the airport, with a stop in front of our hotel where the luggage was left in storage after checking out. Still, count 40 minutes with this indirect route. Via an Air France flight operated by Finnair, after 3 hours, we returned to Roissy CDG—our vacation is truly over!!!!!!
CONCLUSION (if I may) Among the three capitals we visited, our unanimous ranking is: Oslo, Helsinki, and Stockholm—period. Despite a few imperfections in my itinerary, I’d say the Lofoten Islands are really worth it—two days on-site is a minimum. Finland, and not just because of the radars, is way below—nothing to see tourist-wise. I didn’t say nothing to do for those with time—nuance... Norwegian fjords, even if once you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all, are really beautiful, though this destination is quite expensive for us. Norway, thanks to its oil and gas, is very wealthy, near full employment, with an annual GDP per capita of 70,000 euros!!! A pack of cigarettes at 13 euros and beer at 10 euros doesn’t make this a dream destination for an addict like me. We were very lucky with the weather—only two and a half days of rain over 14, unlike many bloggers whose stories I read before leaving. The welcome wasn’t always what we expected. Despite the massive French presence, we’re not always as welcome as Asian conquerors, to whom the West, racing to its doom, continues to roll out the red carpet—literally! I don’t regret our choice—it’s worth seeing once, but only once. At least now we know what we’re talking about!!!!! Finally, as always, here’s the link to my public slideshow on YouTube. For the private one, some spicy scenes (especially with Santa and a troll) could cause me more problems—I’ve had enough!!! www.youtube.com/...zbIgZC6Pk&t=165s See you soon, maybe for new adventures and getaways. DJ93.
Off on new adventures!!!
For my wife’s 60th birthday, I really wanted to make her happy. While I usually pick warm, sunny destinations, she’d rather go somewhere we won’t suffer from the heat.
So, it’s off to Norway!! A real challenge for me—a southern guy who’s as cold-sensitive as they come.
Off on new adventures!!!
For my wife’s 60th birthday, I’m really making her happy. While I usually pick warm, sunny destinations, she’s more tempted by places where you don’t suffer from the heat.
So, it’s off to Norway!! A real challenge for me—a southern guy who’s as cold-sensitive as they come.
I keep telling anyone who’ll listen (well, just myself, really) that these aren’t the countries for me, that rain will be our travel companion, that we’ll have to face polar bears, navigate between icebergs, that there are still Vikings around, and all sorts of other things.
Of course, not wanting to make it easy, we’re driving from the Lyon area where we live.
Friends who’ve visited the country told us it’s pretty expensive to eat out (among other things), so we’re bringing supplies—especially enough for apéritifs the whole trip!!!
It’s not a camper van, but a "hotel-car" we’ll be doing! We’ll see how it goes!
As usual, I’ll try to narrate the journey with my two-cent comments, plus some little tips to avoid our mistakes—assuming I don’t lose any fingers to the cold!
Every night, I’ll count them to make sure I still have all ten! We’re not in *Ch’tis* territory but even farther Noooorth (as Galabru would say).
Note that I’m traveling with a synovial effusion in my knee! The old man’s not in great shape!!
Here we go!!
PS: As always, I’m a filmmaker, so I’ve made an effort with a few photos from my phone.
PS: As always, I’m a filmmaker, so I’ve made an effort with a few photos from my phone.
Hi everyone, I’m traveling through Norway with my dog. I’d love to take the Kystriksveien Coastal Route, but there are some ferry crossings that only take 10 minutes. I was wondering if, for these short trips, I can stay in my car with my dog? He’s sensitive, and I don’t want to leave him alone or take him out of the car because I think the ferry noise will stress him out. Thanks so much in advance if anyone can let me know how these short crossings work!
Hi there,
New to the forum, I’m planning a trip to Norway in a camper van and want to drive the entire FV 17. Does anyone have a link where I can find the 6 ferries I’ll need to take and their costs? Thanks everyone
New to the forum, I’m planning a trip to Norway in a camper van and want to drive the entire FV 17. Does anyone have a link where I can find the 6 ferries I’ll need to take and their costs? Thanks everyone
Hi there, I'm looking for someone heading to Norway or in that direction in June 2025, so we can do the road trip together.
So if you've got a spare seat in your vehicle, feel free to reach out by email: justinpoux@hotmail.fr
I'm 22 and full of good vibes,
Looking forward to finding a travel buddy,
Safe travels! !
Hi there!
I’m planning a road trip in a camper van around the fjords in Norway and would love to get some feedback and tips on the itinerary.
It’s a 10-day trip:
Day 1: Land in Bergen and drive to Odda
Day 2: Odda (full-day hike to Trolltunga)
Day 3: Kinsarvik (hike in Hardangervidda National Park)
Day 4: Geilo (hike in Hallingskarvet National Park)
Day 5: Hike in Jotunheimen National Park via the Gjendesheim ferry
Day 6: Fossbergom
Day 7: Luster and hike in Jostedalsbreen National Park
Day 8: Flam
Day 9: Bergen
Day 10: Bergen + departure
For the camper van rental, I’ve reached out to this site: https://campervanbergen.com, which seems pretty good with reasonable rates. If you have any comments or advice on the itinerary or the rental company, I’d love to hear them! Thanks in advance! Romain
For the camper van rental, I’ve reached out to this site: https://campervanbergen.com, which seems pretty good with reasonable rates. If you have any comments or advice on the itinerary or the rental company, I’d love to hear them! Thanks in advance! Romain
Hello
I’m Constance, a 21-year-old student about to start a gap year.
I’m looking for young people interested in joining me for part of the trip, especially in the Lofoten Islands in Norway. I’ll be there from late September to early October. Ideally, I’d like to stay at a campsite and/or the youth hostel near Leknes to keep costs down and go hiking during the day. If you know of any other blogs or sites (no dating sites, please!) for meeting travelers, I’d love the info! I’m used to meeting people in hostels, but there aren’t many in Norway—and even fewer outside the peak season...
I’m Constance, a 21-year-old student about to start a gap year.
I’m looking for young people interested in joining me for part of the trip, especially in the Lofoten Islands in Norway. I’ll be there from late September to early October. Ideally, I’d like to stay at a campsite and/or the youth hostel near Leknes to keep costs down and go hiking during the day. If you know of any other blogs or sites (no dating sites, please!) for meeting travelers, I’d love the info! I’m used to meeting people in hostels, but there aren’t many in Norway—and even fewer outside the peak season...
hi everyone!
are there other cruise formats besides the coastal express to see the northern lights in Norway in winter?
Hello,
We’re heading to the Lofoten Islands from February 17 to 24, 2026—my husband (a fishing enthusiast), our 7-year-old daughter, and me. The flight tickets are booked (arrival and departure from Evenes), the car is rented, and the itinerary is more or less set. I just have a few questions left and was hoping to get some advice/tips from your experiences.
We’ve planned two bases: Henningsvær and Nusfjord.
Originally, I had planned:
Arrival at Evenes at 2:30 PM, pick up the car, drive (3h) to the Lofoten Islands 4 nights in Henningsvær 3 nights in Nusfjord Drive to the airport (5h) and departure at 3:20 PM
Looking back and considering the unpredictable weather, I’m thinking that a 5-hour drive on the last day before returning the car and catching our flight might not be the best idea. So now, I’m considering spending 3 nights in Henningsvær, 3 nights in Nusfjord, and one last night on the way to the airport. What do you think? Would you have any villages to recommend along the route between the Lofoten Islands and Narvik where we could spend the night and maybe explore for our last 24 hours in Norway? A few practical questions: I’ve heard that most shops, restaurants, cafés, etc., will be closed since it’s the off-season, but on the other hand, I see that Henningsvær is a village that comes alive during the skrei fishing season. I was wondering if everything would be closed or if it would still be possible to visit shops, workshops, and galleries. As for skrei fishing, my husband would love to fish with locals for 2 or 3 days. I found some options online, but nothing’s open yet for February. Will it be possible to join skrei fishing with locals or certain organizations? One last question for now: should we bring our own snowshoes, or will it be possible to rent them there (including for kids)? Thanks in advance, and have a great day!
Arrival at Evenes at 2:30 PM, pick up the car, drive (3h) to the Lofoten Islands 4 nights in Henningsvær 3 nights in Nusfjord Drive to the airport (5h) and departure at 3:20 PM
Looking back and considering the unpredictable weather, I’m thinking that a 5-hour drive on the last day before returning the car and catching our flight might not be the best idea. So now, I’m considering spending 3 nights in Henningsvær, 3 nights in Nusfjord, and one last night on the way to the airport. What do you think? Would you have any villages to recommend along the route between the Lofoten Islands and Narvik where we could spend the night and maybe explore for our last 24 hours in Norway? A few practical questions: I’ve heard that most shops, restaurants, cafés, etc., will be closed since it’s the off-season, but on the other hand, I see that Henningsvær is a village that comes alive during the skrei fishing season. I was wondering if everything would be closed or if it would still be possible to visit shops, workshops, and galleries. As for skrei fishing, my husband would love to fish with locals for 2 or 3 days. I found some options online, but nothing’s open yet for February. Will it be possible to join skrei fishing with locals or certain organizations? One last question for now: should we bring our own snowshoes, or will it be possible to rent them there (including for kids)? Thanks in advance, and have a great day!
Hi, we're going on a cruise to Norway departing from Dunkirk and sailing up the coast—can you share some ideas on what to visit? Thanks!
Gigi
Hi there,
I’m planning our next (pricey) trip to Norway. It’ll be a road trip with accommodations either in Airbnbs or hotels.
I’ve been dreaming of going to the LOFOTEN for ages, but I don’t want to skip the big fjords either (Geiranger, Flam, Bergen, Stavanger). So to combine both, I thought of doing a round trip from Trondheim to Stamsund with Hurtigruten and spending 4 nights in the southern LOFOTEN. The fares are so steep that I don’t think I can do more.
The coastal road is certainly beautiful up to BODØ, but with the stops to plan, it ends up costing as much as taking the boat—plus the fatigue and extra kilometers.
Has anyone taken the Coastal Express with their vehicle from TRONDHEIM to STAMSUND?
Hi everyone,
I’m planning an 8-night trip to Norway in early March 2019, specifically around Tromsø and the surrounding area. I’d love to experience the Nordic winter, its vast landscapes, the northern lights, discover the local wildlife, and most of all, take some amazing photos in these magical settings.
But I’ve got a few questions, especially about how to split my nights and plan the route.
I’m planning to land in Tromsø and stay there for 2 or maybe 3 nights—so far, so good—but after that, I’m torn between the Lofoten Islands or Senja Island for the remaining nights.
The Lofoten Islands seem magical for a photography enthusiast like me, with their little harbors and steep mountains, but the downside is the distance from Tromsø, especially in winter. What do you think? Is it doable to make a round trip from Tromsø to Lofoten in a week, especially in winter (are the roads passable? Is the weather unpredictable? Is the drive worth it?)? Because ideally, I’d like to return the rental car to the same agency in Tromsø to avoid extra costs.
After doing some more research, I came across Senja Island, which some blogs call a "mini Norway." The big advantage is that it’s only a 2-hour drive from Tromsø, but is it as charming as the Lofoten Islands?
And if you’ve got any tips for this route, I’m all ears! 😛
I’d love to hear about your experiences or knowledge, and thanks in advance for your replies! 😉
Arnaud
I’m planning an 8-night trip to Norway in early March 2019, specifically around Tromsø and the surrounding area. I’d love to experience the Nordic winter, its vast landscapes, the northern lights, discover the local wildlife, and most of all, take some amazing photos in these magical settings.
But I’ve got a few questions, especially about how to split my nights and plan the route.
I’m planning to land in Tromsø and stay there for 2 or maybe 3 nights—so far, so good—but after that, I’m torn between the Lofoten Islands or Senja Island for the remaining nights.
The Lofoten Islands seem magical for a photography enthusiast like me, with their little harbors and steep mountains, but the downside is the distance from Tromsø, especially in winter. What do you think? Is it doable to make a round trip from Tromsø to Lofoten in a week, especially in winter (are the roads passable? Is the weather unpredictable? Is the drive worth it?)? Because ideally, I’d like to return the rental car to the same agency in Tromsø to avoid extra costs.
After doing some more research, I came across Senja Island, which some blogs call a "mini Norway." The big advantage is that it’s only a 2-hour drive from Tromsø, but is it as charming as the Lofoten Islands?
And if you’ve got any tips for this route, I’m all ears! 😛
I’d love to hear about your experiences or knowledge, and thanks in advance for your replies! 😉
Arnaud
Hi there,
who has already done the EURO VELO 1 in Norway from the south to the North Cape, and what are the main difficulties:
elevation gain, etc.......
Otherwise, who has already done the EURO VELO 7 from south to north, crossing Sweden up to the North Cape? If so, what are the difficulties, elevation gain, and does it pass through villages for supplies, etc.......
Hello,
We’ve booked our flights to Tromsø from January 9th to 16th, 2027.
Now it’s time to plan our stay, and I’ll admit I’m feeling a bit unsure...
We definitely intend to rent a car, but what route should we take?
Should we book accommodation for the entire stay (7 nights) in Tromsø and do day trips (Sommarøy, Kvaløya, Lyngen, a day in Tromsø, a boat excursion, and then... what else?)? Or spend 3–4 days in Tromsø and hit the road for another 3–4 days somewhere else—but where?
I’d also considered splitting it: 3 days in Tromsø and 3 days in Målselv, so we could explore a different region by car and maybe try some downhill or cross-country skiing.
Is this area interesting beyond skiing?
During a recent trip to Lapland, we already tried dog sledding and snowmobiling, so we’re not planning to repeat those activities. Instead, we’d love to discover the landscapes and Sami culture.
I’d love to hear about your experiences or suggestions to help us plan our trip.
Thanks,
Hey everyone,
I’ve got 15 days off in June and I’m pretty undecided about where to go for a motorcycle road trip. Two strong desires are pulling me in different directions: Corsica or Norway.
Corsica has been a dream of mine for a long time: legendary roads, stunning landscapes, a unique vibe, and the perfect mix of sea and mountains. At the same time, I’m wondering if 2 weeks might be *too much* for Corsica—risking feeling like I’ve seen it all too quickly, especially on a bike. Since I also have an extra week free in May, I could use that specifically for Corsica. Maybe splitting it into two trips would make more sense? If so, which routes or regions would be the most interesting to plan for a 7-day trip?
On the other hand, Norway is *super* appealing. The landscapes look incredible, totally different from anything I’ve experienced, and it’d be a real “wow” trip. I know 15 days is still short for such a vast country. Getting all the way to the North Cape seems pretty much impossible in that time, but I’m curious about what realistic routes could be planned.
So I’m wondering: Is it better to save Norway for next year, take 3 weeks off, and do it *properly*? Or are 15 days enough for a first amazing taste of the country?
I’d love to hear about your experiences—whether it’s Corsica (ideal duration, routes) or Norway (what’s realistic in 2 weeks on a bike). Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
I’ve got 15 days off in June and I’m pretty undecided about where to go for a motorcycle road trip. Two strong desires are pulling me in different directions: Corsica or Norway.
Corsica has been a dream of mine for a long time: legendary roads, stunning landscapes, a unique vibe, and the perfect mix of sea and mountains. At the same time, I’m wondering if 2 weeks might be *too much* for Corsica—risking feeling like I’ve seen it all too quickly, especially on a bike. Since I also have an extra week free in May, I could use that specifically for Corsica. Maybe splitting it into two trips would make more sense? If so, which routes or regions would be the most interesting to plan for a 7-day trip?
On the other hand, Norway is *super* appealing. The landscapes look incredible, totally different from anything I’ve experienced, and it’d be a real “wow” trip. I know 15 days is still short for such a vast country. Getting all the way to the North Cape seems pretty much impossible in that time, but I’m curious about what realistic routes could be planned.
So I’m wondering: Is it better to save Norway for next year, take 3 weeks off, and do it *properly*? Or are 15 days enough for a first amazing taste of the country?
I’d love to hear about your experiences—whether it’s Corsica (ideal duration, routes) or Norway (what’s realistic in 2 weeks on a bike). Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
Hi there, my partner and I are planning a 3-week trip to Scandinavia next June (2026). We’d love to validate our itinerary and get any relevant tips on what to see—or avoid, etc.
Day 1 and 2: Departure from Montreal and arrival in Copenhagen Days 2, 3, 4: Stay in Copenhagen Day 5: Train from Copenhagen to Stockholm Days 5, 6, 7: Stay in Stockholm Day 8: Flight from Stockholm to Oslo Days 8, 9, 10: Stay in Oslo Day 11: Train from Oslo to Bergen (Bergen Line) Days 11, 12: Stay in Bergen Days 13 to 18: 6-night cruise with Hurtigruten or Havila Day 19: Stay in Kirkenes Day 20: Flight from Kirkenes to Oslo Days 20, 21: Stay in Oslo Day 22: Return to Montreal from Oslo.
Thanks so much.
Day 1 and 2: Departure from Montreal and arrival in Copenhagen Days 2, 3, 4: Stay in Copenhagen Day 5: Train from Copenhagen to Stockholm Days 5, 6, 7: Stay in Stockholm Day 8: Flight from Stockholm to Oslo Days 8, 9, 10: Stay in Oslo Day 11: Train from Oslo to Bergen (Bergen Line) Days 11, 12: Stay in Bergen Days 13 to 18: 6-night cruise with Hurtigruten or Havila Day 19: Stay in Kirkenes Day 20: Flight from Kirkenes to Oslo Days 20, 21: Stay in Oslo Day 22: Return to Montreal from Oslo.
Thanks so much.
Hi everyone,
We traveled to Norway in the summer of 2025, from July 17 to 29, to visit Senja Island and the Lofoten archipelago with a rental car. The common thread of these twelve days was clearly hiking, along with a few visits and experiences, and nights spent in a tent or in the car (which made it possible). We chose Narvik Airport for both arrival and departure for several complementary reasons: the desire to visit nearby Senja Island, slightly more affordable airfare, and finally, the rental price of the vehicle—especially the car model we were looking for. We only made one reservation, for the first campsite, as sleeping in a tent made things much easier. But we had the whole structure of the trip planned, a flexible outline that could adapt to the weather conditions we’d encounter. Senja Island isn’t part of the Lofoten archipelago, and during the early stages of planning this trip, we hadn’t planned to visit it. But its relative proximity to Narvik Airport and, above all, its unique geography definitely made us change our minds. We arrived in Evenes, where Narvik Airport is located, nearly 60 km from the city itself. Our first stop was 40 km further in Bjerkvik on the way to Senja, where there’s a Rema 1000 (a very common supermarket chain in Norway). We needed to buy some food and a gas cartridge for our stove. I’d emailed the store manager beforehand, who told me they didn’t sell them but that the two gas stations in the village were likely to have some in stock.
It was only at the Esso station that I found what I needed, but unfortunately, only one cartridge. Luckily, we quickly realized that most campsites (like in Iceland) have a shared kitchen with hotplates. That single small cartridge was just enough for the few nights we spent outside of campsites... We got our first taste of Norway’s characteristic landscapes:
When we arrived at the Senja campsite, it was already 9:30 PM. A sign announced it was full, but luckily, I’d booked it 10 days earlier. By 10:30 PM, as we settled in to eat, it was still broad daylight, and the thermometer read 25°C—despite being at a latitude of 69° North! We went to bed around midnight, exhausted but under the light of a sun that was still very much present. Thanks to Earth’s tilted axis. We’d anticipated this by buying opaque sleep masks because, yes, at this time of year, it’s daylight all the time.
Friday, July 18:
Today, we planned two hikes on the island and a few stops along the way. The map clearly shows that the deepest fjords are in the north and west. Due to time and accessibility, we focused on the northern part of the island. Our first stop was at the viewing platform in Bergbotn:
Then we headed toward Skaland, the starting point for our first hike. Along the way, we found plenty of reasons to stop—especially since, on this first day of travel, our thirst for Nordic landscapes was far from quenched.
The town of Skaland is very practical: free parking, picnic tables for after the hike, and a Joker convenience store right next door. Our goal was the summit of Husfjellet: 670 m of elevation gain, between 8 and 9 km in length, and an estimated 4 hours and 30 minutes.
This hike offers two major viewpoints. The first overlooks the Bergsoyan islands to the west:
At the summit, the view shifts to the Steinfjorden fjord:
You can even clearly see the "Devil’s Teeth," which we’d see from below later:
In total, the hike took us 4 hours and 30 minutes, including all the breaks. We treated ourselves to an ice cream in Skaland to recharge for the next hike. We hit the road again and stopped at Tungeneset to get a closer look at the Devil’s Teeth:
We continued to Fjordgard, the starting point for our second hike. Fjordgard isn’t very welcoming. There was a time when you could park right at the start of the hike up Mount Segla. Now, everything’s blocked off, and locals have even taken to blocking all possible parking spots nearby. You now have to park outside the town at a paid parking lot (90 NOK for 3 hours), adding an extra 2 km (round trip) of walking. Still, that was just a minor inconvenience because the hike that followed quickly made us forget all about it. The hike is fairly short (2 hours) but still has 520 m of elevation gain. This hike was a stark contrast to the first. This morning, we had sweeping views of the vast landscape. Here, Mount Segla, perched on the edge of the cliff, dominates the foreground:
For those prone to vertigo, it might be best to stay at the foot of the mountain, as the trail climbs right along the cliff edge. And from that point on, you quickly understand what verticality really means...
In total, we took 2 hours and 50 minutes, including breaks and the extra walk to the parking lot. The day was already well underway, and with 1,200 m of cumulative elevation gain, it was time to find a spot to eat and sleep. Since we hadn’t made any reservations, we’d planned to bivouac for the night. We weren’t too picky—just practical—so we decided to sleep in the car at the parking lot for tomorrow morning’s hike, just 5 km from Fjordgard.
We traveled to Norway in the summer of 2025, from July 17 to 29, to visit Senja Island and the Lofoten archipelago with a rental car. The common thread of these twelve days was clearly hiking, along with a few visits and experiences, and nights spent in a tent or in the car (which made it possible). We chose Narvik Airport for both arrival and departure for several complementary reasons: the desire to visit nearby Senja Island, slightly more affordable airfare, and finally, the rental price of the vehicle—especially the car model we were looking for. We only made one reservation, for the first campsite, as sleeping in a tent made things much easier. But we had the whole structure of the trip planned, a flexible outline that could adapt to the weather conditions we’d encounter. Senja Island isn’t part of the Lofoten archipelago, and during the early stages of planning this trip, we hadn’t planned to visit it. But its relative proximity to Narvik Airport and, above all, its unique geography definitely made us change our minds. We arrived in Evenes, where Narvik Airport is located, nearly 60 km from the city itself. Our first stop was 40 km further in Bjerkvik on the way to Senja, where there’s a Rema 1000 (a very common supermarket chain in Norway). We needed to buy some food and a gas cartridge for our stove. I’d emailed the store manager beforehand, who told me they didn’t sell them but that the two gas stations in the village were likely to have some in stock.
It was only at the Esso station that I found what I needed, but unfortunately, only one cartridge. Luckily, we quickly realized that most campsites (like in Iceland) have a shared kitchen with hotplates. That single small cartridge was just enough for the few nights we spent outside of campsites... We got our first taste of Norway’s characteristic landscapes:
When we arrived at the Senja campsite, it was already 9:30 PM. A sign announced it was full, but luckily, I’d booked it 10 days earlier. By 10:30 PM, as we settled in to eat, it was still broad daylight, and the thermometer read 25°C—despite being at a latitude of 69° North! We went to bed around midnight, exhausted but under the light of a sun that was still very much present. Thanks to Earth’s tilted axis. We’d anticipated this by buying opaque sleep masks because, yes, at this time of year, it’s daylight all the time.
Friday, July 18:
Today, we planned two hikes on the island and a few stops along the way. The map clearly shows that the deepest fjords are in the north and west. Due to time and accessibility, we focused on the northern part of the island. Our first stop was at the viewing platform in Bergbotn:
Then we headed toward Skaland, the starting point for our first hike. Along the way, we found plenty of reasons to stop—especially since, on this first day of travel, our thirst for Nordic landscapes was far from quenched.
The town of Skaland is very practical: free parking, picnic tables for after the hike, and a Joker convenience store right next door. Our goal was the summit of Husfjellet: 670 m of elevation gain, between 8 and 9 km in length, and an estimated 4 hours and 30 minutes.
This hike offers two major viewpoints. The first overlooks the Bergsoyan islands to the west:
At the summit, the view shifts to the Steinfjorden fjord:
You can even clearly see the "Devil’s Teeth," which we’d see from below later:
In total, the hike took us 4 hours and 30 minutes, including all the breaks. We treated ourselves to an ice cream in Skaland to recharge for the next hike. We hit the road again and stopped at Tungeneset to get a closer look at the Devil’s Teeth:
We continued to Fjordgard, the starting point for our second hike. Fjordgard isn’t very welcoming. There was a time when you could park right at the start of the hike up Mount Segla. Now, everything’s blocked off, and locals have even taken to blocking all possible parking spots nearby. You now have to park outside the town at a paid parking lot (90 NOK for 3 hours), adding an extra 2 km (round trip) of walking. Still, that was just a minor inconvenience because the hike that followed quickly made us forget all about it. The hike is fairly short (2 hours) but still has 520 m of elevation gain. This hike was a stark contrast to the first. This morning, we had sweeping views of the vast landscape. Here, Mount Segla, perched on the edge of the cliff, dominates the foreground:
For those prone to vertigo, it might be best to stay at the foot of the mountain, as the trail climbs right along the cliff edge. And from that point on, you quickly understand what verticality really means...
In total, we took 2 hours and 50 minutes, including breaks and the extra walk to the parking lot. The day was already well underway, and with 1,200 m of cumulative elevation gain, it was time to find a spot to eat and sleep. Since we hadn’t made any reservations, we’d planned to bivouac for the night. We weren’t too picky—just practical—so we decided to sleep in the car at the parking lot for tomorrow morning’s hike, just 5 km from Fjordgard.
Hi fellow travelers.
I’m planning a trip to the Norwegian fjords soon, and of course, I’ll need to exchange my euros for Norwegian kroner since the currency isn’t the same as in France.
I know you can exchange money at tourist offices or some banks.
Honestly, I’m writing this because it’s my first time traveling to a country that doesn’t use the euro, and I’m wondering how the process works.
Do I need to take care of any administrative steps before heading there, or have special documents on hand to exchange money once I arrive? Do I have to have cash for this?
Or can I just walk into a bank like nothing’s up and exchange money using my bank details, employment contract, etc.?
Anyway, I just wanted to get some details on how it all works and what I’ll need to do to make sure everything goes smoothly and without any issues—I have no idea how this works and don’t want any bad surprises.
Looking forward to your replies! 😉
I’m planning a trip to the Norwegian fjords soon, and of course, I’ll need to exchange my euros for Norwegian kroner since the currency isn’t the same as in France.
I know you can exchange money at tourist offices or some banks.
Honestly, I’m writing this because it’s my first time traveling to a country that doesn’t use the euro, and I’m wondering how the process works.
Do I need to take care of any administrative steps before heading there, or have special documents on hand to exchange money once I arrive? Do I have to have cash for this?
Or can I just walk into a bank like nothing’s up and exchange money using my bank details, employment contract, etc.?
Anyway, I just wanted to get some details on how it all works and what I’ll need to do to make sure everything goes smoothly and without any issues—I have no idea how this works and don’t want any bad surprises.
Looking forward to your replies! 😉
Hi there,
We’re heading to Norway in May for a self-drive trip around the Bergen area, and we’d love to do a few-hour cruise on the Sognefjord—especially on the day we’ll be near Balestrand-Fjærland. I can’t find any reliable info (the *Routard* guide doesn’t say much except that it’s expensive!). Any ideas? Where should I look or ask? Do we need to book in advance?...
Thanks for any tips!