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Summer vacation at Lake Garda
Hello,

We're planning to visit Lake Garda from August 10th to 24th with our 4-year-old daughter. We’d stay for 15 days. We’ll be arriving at Verona Airport. We don’t know the area at all. We were thinking of staying near Malcesine. Do you think we should plan for two accommodations to explore the lake? We’d prefer to avoid crowded spots, even though I suspect it might be tricky in August. If you have any great tips or recommendations within a budget of up to 150 € per night, that would be amazing! Do you think a car is essential, or can the lake be easily explored by ferry and bus? For a 15-day stay, would you recommend staying around Lake Garda or visiting one or more other lakes as well? We’re looking for activities suitable for our 4-year-old daughter.

Thanks so much for your help. I
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Prices for domestic flight Krabi-Chiang Mai
Hi everyone, I’m planning a trip to Thailand. Since we’ll only be there for two and a half weeks, we want to visit the Krabi area and then Chiang Mai. So we won’t take the train—it’s too long in terms of travel time. We’re wondering if it’s more worthwhile to buy the flight tickets on the spot? If so, is the price difference really significant? From what I see on online booking sites, you’re looking at between 35 and 60 € per person for a Krabi/Chiang Mai route.
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Feedback on a Patagonia road trip itinerary
Hello, We’re planning a trip to Patagonia for November–December 2026. After reading forums, blogs, and guidebooks, we’ve sketched out a rough itinerary and would love to hear from experts. We initially wanted to rent a camper van, but it’s hard to find options and we have no idea about prices. We’ve settled on starting in Bariloche, crossing into Chile for the Carretera Austral, then back into Argentina before crossing into Chile again for Punta Arenas, and finally ending in El Calafate to drop off the car. We don’t want to make any advance reservations so we can stay flexible based on weather and road conditions. Do you think this route is reasonably doable? And if you have any idea about the cost of renting a car for 17 days with a different drop-off location and the paperwork needed for border crossings… Thanks a million in advance for your replies! Céline

Day 1: Flight – 24 hours of travel, overnight on the plane Day 2: Arrival in Buenos Aires, overnight in BA Day 3: BA, overnight in BA Day 4: BA, overnight in BA Day 5: Flight to Bariloche, overnight in Bariloche Day 6–7: Seven Lakes route, overnight in Bariloche Day 8: Drive to La Junta, overnight stop Day 9: Drive to Puerto Tranquilo, overnight in Puerto Tranquilo Day 10: Catedral de Mármol, overnight in Puerto Tranquilo Day 11: Drive to El Chaltén, overnight stop Day 12: Arrival in El Chaltén, overnight in El Chaltén Day 13: El Chaltén, overnight in El Chaltén Day 14: El Chaltén, overnight in El Chaltén Day 15: Drive to Punta Arenas, overnight in Punta Arenas Day 16: Punta Arenas, overnight in Punta Arenas Day 17: Punta Arenas, overnight in Punta Arenas Day 18: Drive to Torres del Paine, overnight in Torres Day 19: Torres del Paine, overnight in Torres Day 20: Torres del Paine, overnight in Torres Day 21: Drive to El Calafate, overnight in El Calafate Day 22: El Calafate, overnight in El Calafate Day 23: Flight to BA, overnight in BA Day 24: Flight to Paris
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Tips for a 20-day Costa Rica discovery itinerary
Planned arrival on Sunday evening, November 16, 2025, in San José. Staying 3 nights, then taking a bus to Tortuguero for 2 nights. Looking for a shared shuttle to La Fortuna for 2 nights, then a van-boat-van combo to Santa Elena for 2 or 3 nights. Heading to Quepos for 4 nights for day trips using local buses—Jaco, San Antonio, Uvita. After that, a full-day bus ride to Cahuita. I’m booking hotels as I go, which gives me the flexibility to stay longer in places I like. I’m looking for accommodations in city centers near restaurants and not too far from the bus station. Budget: 50 € for a room with a private bathroom (if you’ve got any great tips!). For my finale, I’ll cross the land border to Panama City for 4 days. Thanks for your suggestions! 😉
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Travel companion for Sri Lanka
I'm looking for a travel companion (male or female) for a trip of about 2 to 3 weeks in Sri Lanka in early 2026—a country I haven’t visited yet. I’m passionate about travel, especially Southeast Asia.

My only non-negotiable is that the trip ends by mid-February at the latest, since I’ll then be heading to Thailand to spend 2 weeks with my daughter.

I’d like to explore the central, western, and southern regions, which enjoy better weather at that time of year.

Hope to connect soon and get to know each other better!
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Layover in Kuala Lumpur
Hi, Flight from Phu Quoc to Langkawi via Kuala Lumpur with a self-transfer layover of 2H10. No terminal change, but you’ll need to collect your carry-on luggage, recheck in for the second flight (same airline, AirAsia), go through customs and security... I’m not familiar with this airport, which I’ve read is quite large. For those who’ve done this before—is the layover time enough? Thanks for your reply.
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Visiting Auschwitz-Birkenau during a motorcycle trip
Hello! We’re planning a motorcycle trip that will include a visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau in June 2026. We’re unsure (still debating) whether we should stay at a hotel on-site and get to the memorial with an Uber (leaving our bikes at the hotel) and book a guided tour, or base ourselves in Kraków and take a tour that includes transport. One thing’s for sure—we’d prefer a guide in French since we don’t speak English 😅.

Could you share your experiences or advice? I understand we need to book online rather than on-site. Thanks in advance for your replies!
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24 Days in Réunion/Mauritius: Feedback on My Itinerary
Hello!

My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).

We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.

After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)

Thanks! 😊

🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days) Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights) Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach. Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot. Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina). Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.

Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights) Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse. Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.

Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights) Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise. Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach. Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.

🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days) Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights) Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy. Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire. Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie. Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling. Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.

Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights) Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach. Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon. Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery. Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls). Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.

Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights) Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach. Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs. Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.

Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights) Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park. Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes. Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village. Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
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Trip report: Our South Africa journey in July
Hi there,

We’re back from our 3-week trip to South Africa in July. It was a family trip with our four grown-up kids (ages 18 to 25).

First off, I’d like to thank everyone on this forum for their great tips—they really helped us plan this trip!

The trip: We spent 15 days between Port Elizabeth and Cape Town, then a week around Kruger (including Blyde River Canyon). We found South Africans to be welcoming and always ready to help. We never felt unsafe (just followed basic safety rules). The police are very visible, especially on the roads.

Logistics: We’d booked our accommodations in advance but made a few changes on the spot based on how we felt at the time. We rented two vehicles from Firefly (Hertz). No complaints—recent cars, quick returns, and the deposit wasn’t charged. We’d gotten our international driver’s permits... which stayed in France! Luckily, no one asked for them. Driving on the left wasn’t an issue (it wasn’t our first time). The roads we took were in good, even great, condition. Only a few tracks to lodges or parks were rough and required extra caution. Lots of pedestrians on the sides of roads, even highways. And plenty of very slow trucks. But they pull over to let you pass. It’s also common for cars to cross into the opposite lane to overtake, even with white lines. We took two domestic flights: one early in the morning (Johannesburg to Port Elizabeth) and one in the late afternoon (Cape Town to Johannesburg) to save time.

We had some highlights and a few disappointments—all part of the journey! More details coming soon.

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Spend Christmas in Prague!
From December 9th to 12th, experience a winter getaway in the heart of the Czech capital, under the lights of the Christmas markets 🙂

Enjoy an all-inclusive stay, blending cultural discoveries and festive Christmas vibes with Hasamélis & MyAtlas.

Explore Prague’s treasures: Old Town Square, the castle, and the Town Hall Tower for breathtaking views…

This guided tour also takes you to exclusive, privately booked venues: Strahov Monastery, Estates Theatre, Municipal House… A rich cultural program in a cozy, festive atmosphere.

Details and bookings here
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Spend Christmas in Prague!
From December 9th to 12th, experience a winter getaway in the heart of the Czech capital, under the magical lights of the Christmas markets.

Enjoy an all-inclusive stay, blending cultural discoveries and festive holiday vibes with Hasamélis & MyAtlas.

Explore Prague’s treasures: Old Town Square, the castle, and the Town Hall Tower for breathtaking views…

This guided tour also takes you to exclusive, privately booked venues: Strahov Monastery, Estates Theatre, Municipal House… A rich cultural program in a cozy, festive atmosphere.

Details and bookings here :)
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Visiting Abu Simbel from Aswan (Egypt)
Hi there,

I’ve booked a Nile cruise from Luxor to Aswan. The excursion to Abu Simbel is offered as an option, but for a family with 2 kids, it comes to 500 € for a lot of bus travel and very little time on site. Is it possible to find a local agency, taxi, or guide on the spot who’d offer the trip for less? Do we have to travel in a convoy? Thanks for your tips! Fred
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Bali: What are the must-visit places?
Hi there! We’ll be in Bali from July 28, 2025, to August 28, 2025, and we’d love to know which spots are worth visiting. If anyone has a travel journal or tips to share—especially since we’ll be spending our first week in Uluwatu—thanks in advance for your replies!
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Practical feedback from a 3-week road trip in Québec and Ontario
Hi there, here are some practical details that might help you plan a future trip to Québec-Ontario. 3 weeks as a couple from September 21 to October 15, 2024. Flight: Lyon-Montreal with Air Transat, 850 €.

Accommodation: We only booked the first two nights at a hotel in Montreal. After that, we reserved the day before or even the same afternoon for the next night, going with the flow of the trip. No availability issues—there are plenty of motels. Expect to pay around 80-100 € per night, as accommodation is pricey. -Car rental: Booked with Authentik/Thrifty for 760 € for 20 days. Pick-up at the downtown branch, drop-off at the airport. Smooth, quick, and the staff were great. The car was recent. We got extra insurance through SereniZen. We drove about 5,000 km, and gas was less than 1 € per liter. -Food: Quick note—it’s expensive and not great. -Health: Medical costs seem very high, so on top of credit card insurance, we were advised to get extra coverage. We went with Heymondo. -Tap water is drinkable everywhere. -SIM card: 4GB with unlimited calls for 1 month, 17 €. -Our favorite spots for fall colors: the Eastern Townships, Algonquin Park, and Mont Tremblant. Safe travels!
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Traveling by bus in Argentina and Chile
Hi there, We’re heading to Argentina and Chile next February and really want to do the Carretera Austral starting from Coyhaique.

We’d love some info and feedback on bus routes to get to Coyhaique: Buenos Aires to Comodoro (which we’ve found pretty easily so far), or Buenos Aires to Bariloche (same, there are buses).

The tricky part is getting to Coyhaique in Chile, the starting point for the Carretera Austral. We can’t find any routes! Has anyone done this trip before and could share some tips?

Thanks in advance
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Layover Taxis in the Canary Islands
Hi there, We’re leaving Las Palmas on 13/01 for a cruise on the MSC Opera with stops in Fuerteventura, Funchal, Tenerife, Lanzarote, and La Palma. Has anyone taken taxis from these places to explore the islands, and how much should we budget to compare with the ship’s excursions? Can you negotiate the fare? Any drivers you’d recommend? Thanks for your tips 👍 and happy New Year 2025 😊😊
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Name of the airport in Guadeloupe
Hello and happy new year in advance,

Is the airport in Guadeloupe "Pointe-à-Pitre Maryse Condé" and "Aéroport Pôle Caraïbes" the same?

Because on my Air France ticket, it now says "Pointe-à-Pitre Guadeloupe Airport - Maryse Condé PTP."

Thanks again,

Serge
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Budapest-Vienna Hydrofoil
I’d like to travel from Budapest, Hungary, to Vienna, Austria, this summer by hydrofoil on the Danube. A one-way trip. Is that possible? What’s the price, the name of the boat company, and where can I book? Thanks
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Which seat to choose on the A380?
Hi fellow travelers ;-)) 😎 (Flying Emirates A380 Economy Class) This will be MY FIRST TIME on the A380 😎 in just under a month (I’m also an aviation enthusiast), and I’d really like a window seat. But I want to fully enjoy the view—if it’s clear, of course—and I’d prefer to avoid the wings. From the available seats, there are quite a few at the back, but only 3 or 4 just ahead of the wings (though they’re more expensive!!). I’m hesitating because seats are selling fast, but if I end up choosing one toward the rear, will I still be blocked by the wings? (They’re so long and wide!!!) :-0 Thanks so much for your firsthand experiences!! 🙂
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Accommodation in the Perhentian Islands
Hi, I tried to book 15 nights at Abdul Chalet in the Perhentians for May 2025 starting on the first of December, but I noticed that this year, in April 2024, we stayed there for 10 nights. Today, the response was: "you can only book 7 nights—it’s the new way of operating for 2025." I’m really surprised because we’ve stayed at this guesthouse five times in less than 10 years without any issues, even if the staff isn’t very friendly and the restaurant is just okay. But it’s such a peaceful place that we love. Do you know of any quiet, reasonably priced hotels or guesthouses in the Perhentian Islands you could recommend? Have any of you stayed at Coral View Island Resort recently?

Thanks in advance.
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Slovenia, a nature destination
Slovenia was the originally planned destination for summer 2022, as a complement to a road trip through Croatia and Montenegro. Plans changed on a whim in February of that year. Our Balkans road trip would ultimately be limited to Slovenia and take place over 10 days during the Easter school holidays. Flight tickets and car rental were booked right away; all that was left was to finalize our itinerary, already sketched out, and the accommodation reservations.

I decided to add Plitvice Lakes in Croatia to our program. I really wanted to discover them, and for my husband, it was a chance to revisit them several years after a trip to Yugoslavia when he was a teenager.

I’m happy to contribute to the reopening of our forum by posting this travel journal (originally posted in 2022 on another forum, the text has been partially revised and photos added). As usual, a few photos to start with—maybe they’ll inspire you to join in!









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Off-the-beaten-path walking safari
Hi there, I’m looking for organizations that specialize in walking safaris, but not at the price points I’m seeing online. I’m after a truly immersive experience in the wild, with the option to sleep in very basic tents and help prepare meals... Ideal duration: 7 to 10 days. I’d rather avoid the super touristy destinations (Kenya, Tanzania, etc.). Thanks for any tips you can share! !
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4x4 trails to explore in Tunisia?
Hi there,

We’re in the planning stages and wondering if there are any great 4x4 trails in Tunisia. Ideally, we’d love to find spots that are really off the beaten path and wild. We’re also curious if it’s possible to sleep under the stars in our 4x4 in safe and scenic spots.
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Kenya February 2020: From Tsavo to Samburu via Meru National Park
Good evening everyone, I hope you're all doing well despite this very unusual time… Here’s a new travel journal to get you back on the Kenyan trails.

It was a really great idea to buy those flight tickets to Nairobi back in December. When Benoit suggested this new safari in February, I hesitated a little (very little): it was the season with particularly high temperatures, and the short rainy season in November/December had been very heavy, raising concerns about the state of the tracks… Given the current situation, no regrets, of course… We quickly organized the safari with our usual guide, and we booked the accommodations ourselves directly. (If we’d waited just a few more weeks, we might’ve regretted it…)

For once, we were able to leave from the airport near where we live (Lorient - Lann Bihoué), which is really convenient: no driving, no parking… We left home at 2 PM on Tuesday, February 18th, and arrived in Nairobi at 6 AM the next morning—perfect. (With a layover in CDG, of course 😉) Upon arrival, after a forehead temperature check by airport staff, we got our visas very quickly (forms filled out before departure). The customs agents congratulated us on our passports full of Kenyan stamps… but we still had to pay the 40 € for the visa.

All that was left was to collect our luggage, and we’d be ready to leave the airport shortly after landing. But there was a small issue: the baggage conveyor belt was broken… Eventually, the suitcases and bags were brought out by hand… Hakuna Matata, as they say here—no problem, as long as they’re all there. Benoit sent a message to Félix, our guide, to come meet us in the airport parking lot. After catching up with our respective families, we set off toward the Mombasa road, heading to Voi.

Traffic in Nairobi is still as heavy as ever, and the pollution is very noticeable (cars, but also cement factories…). The current lockdown has changed things. On social media, Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro seem visible from Nairobi now!…

The first stop on this safari was a place we hadn’t visited before: the LUMO Community Wildlife Conservancy lumoconservancy.com/. It’s a small reserve located west of Tsavo West and near the Taita Hills. The reserve is managed by the local community, and entry fees are lower than in Tsavo’s national parks. We had initially planned to spend three days in Tsavo East, but since the accommodation wasn’t available for that long, we ended up choosing this option, which turned out to be a great discovery. Since the reserve is small, I think it’s hard to spend more than two days there. The advantage is that, since it’s not a national park, activities like walks or night safaris can be offered.

Alright, here are a few images to set the mood.







Elephants, but also hartebeests and lots of giraffes in a light we really liked.







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12 days in Santo Antão and São Vicente (during Carnival)
Hi everyone,

It’s my turn to share my impressions, itineraries, and addresses in Cape Verde. I actually drew a lot of inspiration from travel journals to choose which islands to visit... I set off with a friend for 12 days there.

We chose the islands of Santo Antão for its hikes and São Vicente to enjoy Carnival.

We arrived in São Vicente and spent the first half-day gathering information on ferry schedules to Santo Antão and finding two nights of accommodation for our return to São Vicente during Carnival. We were lucky to find an available room in a guesthouse very close to Laghina Beach, while all the hotels and guesthouses in town were fully booked. Indeed, it’s best to book in advance to secure a room during Carnival.

We also bought a phone card, which turned out to be useful for making a few reservations during our stay. We got some tips from the tourist office located right in the city center.

We left for Santo Antão the same day at 2:30 PM. The ferries from São Vicente to Santo Antão are supposedly the most punctual. And for good reason—they’re very on time, even leaving 5 minutes early. Boarding starts 30 minutes before the scheduled departure to avoid missing it.

On the ferry, we met Vany, who runs a guesthouse near the Paul Valley. He told us his restaurant is very good. He was adorable, and we kept his contact info—we weren’t disappointed!

We arrived in Santo Antão and asked the *colectivo* (shared taxi) to take us to Ponta do Sol for 400 escudos per person. Meanwhile, we bought the 1:500,000 map of Santo Antão (essential for hiking without a guide).

The *colectivo* dropped us off right at the door of a very kind lady who rents rooms on the upper floor of her house (3,000 escudos per night + breakfast for 2 people). We dropped off our things and chatted with a local contact to decide on our itineraries and hikes. We decided on the following route (which sometimes changed day by day):

From Ponta do Sol to Cha d’Igreja (path 212) From Cha d’Igreja via Cabo de Mocho to Ribeira Grande (then return by *colectivo* to Ponta do Sol) (paths 213a, 213, 208a, then the road) The *Rota da Corda* (by taxi) to Cova de Paul, then the Paul Valley (with a guide, likely paths 101 and 102) Cha de Morte to Alta Mira III (starting from Tia Rosa’s place, then paths 302 and 303) Alta Mira III via the Mira Valley to the sea, then back to Alta Mira III (paths 303 and 305a, returning by road)

One thing to remember: the hikes are non-stop uphill and downhill—no flat sections!

From Ponta do Sol to Cha d’Igreja (path 212)

We left our guesthouse around 8:30 AM with a light backpack, water, some snacks for the road, and a few things for our overnight stay in Cha d’Igreja (our host kindly agreed to keep our big backpacks for the night; we’d return the following night).

The path was very easy—impossible to get lost. We were advised to do it in this direction because it’s supposedly prettier and easier than the other way. The scenery includes the coast and villages perched on the lush mountainside. The only downside was the cloud of sand particles that reduced visibility, especially over the sea. We arrived in Cha d’Igreja at 2:30 PM and checked into a guesthouse we’d been recommended (5,600 escudos for 2 people, including dinner, night, and breakfast).

In Cha d’Igreja, there’s a square where people gather in the evenings. That night, kids were dressed up because Carnival was already starting. We also visited an ecolodge run by French people just before the village entrance. The place was really nice—they had bungalows and fully equipped tents. I think it’s worth staying there, but we’d already booked our guesthouse (maybe next time!).

From Cha d’Igreja via Cabo de Mocho to Ribeira Grande

We left around 8:00–8:30 AM for a 3–3.5 hour hike to Boca de Ambas. The scenery was stunning the whole way. We stopped at a *merceria* (small shop) in Boca de Ambas to buy fruit juice and eat some fruit. There, we met an old man who asked, “Are you French? So you don’t speak English?” But then—bluff—we *did* speak English (he was stunned!). We started chatting; he told us he’d traveled a lot, introduced us to his neighbors, and insisted on accompanying us to Zeca’s house (about a 40-minute walk away). We happily accepted his company, but his idea wasn’t to walk—it was to drive us there. So off we went in his 4x4. From there, he showed us the way to Coculi via Cha de Lobhinos. We still asked for directions a few times because we weren’t always sure which path to take. We passed through Ribeirão, Lombo de Negrinho, then hiked with a group on the road to Cha de Saída (about 2.5 hours of walking). The scenery was magnificent again. Then we came across the track to Coculi. It was less pretty, so we decided to hop into the first passing vehicle to take us to Ribeira Grande and then to Synagogue, where we swam in the natural pools.

We returned to Ponta do Sol around 5:00 PM. We had dinner at an excellent restaurant by the sea, right in front of the diver statue (a turtle’s body is on the restaurant’s facade). Lucky for us, there was one table left—the place was packed!

Ponta do Sol is a pretty lively town. We even caught Carnival rehearsals. It was a nice change from the quiet of Cha d’Igreja.

The *Rota da Corda* (by taxi) to Cova de Paul, then the Paul Valley with a guide

The taxi picked us up at 8:30 AM, and we headed to the Cova crater. We left with a small backpack because our *colectivo* driver kindly agreed to drop off our big bags at the guesthouse we’d booked in Paul. We stopped along the way—the scenery was breathtaking. I already regretted not hiking part of this route on foot. We climbed to the top of the crater and descended into the Paul Valley. I expected it to be cloudy, but it was actually very clear and green. The Paul Valley is beautiful. The guide gave us brief explanations about the plants we encountered. There was a lot of downhill walking—it was pretty tough on the feet. I think I would’ve preferred a mix of hiking in the *Rota da Corda* and the Paul Valley.

Guide fee: 4,500 escudos for the day, and 3,000 escudos for the taxi.

We arrived at the guesthouse we’d booked, which is famous for its great food (and for good reason). When we got there, the cook picked out the fish for that evening’s menu from the day’s catch—a lobster... and it was for us! :) The terrace setting of this guesthouse (where the restaurant is) is gorgeous, and the staff is adorable (especially Vany, who runs the place and whom we’d met on the ferry). There’s even a small dedicated space with a stage for live music nights. However, the room was a bit less comfortable (no water at times, quite noisy), but it didn’t matter—the setting and the people made us quickly forget the minor inconveniences. Address: DM me if you want it.

Cha de Morte to Alta Mira III (starting from Tia Rosa’s place, then paths 302 and 303)

We left Paul via Porto Novo, where we took advantage of the *colectivo* change to buy our ferry tickets (for two days later). We decided to head toward Alta Mira III. The owner of the (only?) guesthouse there is also a *colectivo* driver for the route from Porto Novo to the Alta Mira Valley. He dropped us off along the way near Tia Rosa’s house (marked on the map), and we took path 302. The scenery changed dramatically—it was much more arid than the northern and eastern parts of the island. Still, the landscapes and “dykes” in the second part of the route were spectacular. We hiked for about 3.5 hours and arrived at the guesthouse (DM for contact—2,000 escudos per person for the night, including dinner and breakfast). The calm in the village contrasted with the lively atmosphere at Vany’s the night before. The food was excellent—we loved it!

Alta Mira III via the Mira Valley to the sea, then back to Alta Mira III (paths 303 and 305a, returning by road)

Our last hike before returning to São Vicente. We went to the Alta Mira Valley via Alto Mira II to the sea (about 4 hours of walking). The first part, up to Dominguihas, was especially beautiful. After that, I found the scenery a bit monotonous. We returned by road, and luckily, we ran into a car (unexpected on a Sunday in this remote area) near Jorge LUIS’s village, which dropped us off at the Selada viewpoint, 4 km from our guesthouse. Otherwise, it would’ve been a long uphill walk back (not very fun). Second night at our guesthouse (with another amazing dinner).

We left the hiking island to arrive on the party island: São Vicente. A Carnival parade was happening that very evening. We had dinner at a restaurant on Rua Lisboa, which offered a view of the parade from the balcony (packed to the brim). We were lucky to see a magnificent parade in “little Rio” style (with feather costumes, floats, dancing, music, singing, and *batucada*). Once the procession passed, we headed a bit farther (to Praça Nova) to enjoy it longer. Tuesday, February 9: Carnival Day (though the parades had been going on since Friday, including school parades... the city had been celebrating for days). Four groups were set to parade starting at 3:00 PM. We decided to try the same spot as the night before, but this time, all the restaurants had their doors closed—you needed tickets to enjoy the balconies... and tickets were sold out. We really wanted a high vantage point... so we tried the railing of the Alliance Française, like many other Cape Verdeans (the wall was the width of a flip-flop...). It barely held, but we got our spot, which we kept for nearly 5 hours. The vibe was the same as the night before: floats, costumes, dancing with participants aged 7 to 77 (and older...). The evening ended with a big outdoor concert, then... nothing. We looked for other places with music but had no luck. We went back a bit unsatisfied—we would’ve loved to extend the moment. Three days left in São Vicente: a walk on the beach (between Calhau and Praia das Gatas, about 3 hours—go at low tide). The sea brings in a lot of trash, which is a shame because the beach is beautiful (but hard to swim due to strong currents). We hiked to the top of Monte Verde (great view if the weather’s clear, but the wind is very strong at the top—you can also take a taxi). We swam at Mindelo Beach (Laghina), drank coffee at the Pergola (next to the Alliance Française), and enjoyed the sun while it was pouring rain in Paris :)

All in all, it was an amazing trip. I hope you’ll have just as great a time in this little corner of paradise.
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