Hello! 🙂

In 2017, struck by western addiction, our first road trip gave us an irresistible urge to return, which we did from September 2nd to 24th, 2019, on a loop from Denver to Denver via Yellowstone. The westernmost point of this journey, which took us through the geographical center of the USA, brought us within about a hundred kilometers of Moab, which had been the easternmost point of our last trip.

We’ve been back for over a month now, and I realize I’m starting to forget some details—it’s high time I started my travel journal before my brain turns into Swiss cheese and lets everything slip away. As I mentioned in my last story, it’ll take me quite a while to finish, so if any travelers have specific questions, don’t hesitate to message me privately. Once again, I’d like to thank everyone who helped me (and there were many!) prepare our road trip, with a special shout-out to Disneydiddl, Hiacinthe, and Titou (ladies first) as well as Fred and Itat, whom I bombarded with questions for months and who always kindly and patiently gave me tons of great tips. It’s thanks to all of you that this trip was such a success. I was a little worried I wouldn’t recapture the emotion and enthusiasm of our 2017 trip, but this one was just as "Wow" as the last.

For those who don’t know us, let me introduce our little group. We’re four friends in our sixties (this time, everyone made it, which let us score some "senior" discounts...). We live in the Var region, have known each other for over 20 years, and this was our second trip together to this magical West.

Mimi (Michèle): always the smallest and the funniest. Thank goodness she was there to speak English! Maumau (Maurice): her husband, always with his white hair, his Gallic mustache, his humor, and his Southern accent. He drove every other day. DD (André): the one with the beard, with whom I celebrated our 41st wedding anniversary at Yellowstone. Our second driver appreciated having a peaceful mind since he’s been retired since July. Marcalamar (Martine): that’s me—still blonde with glasses, still talking a lot, and still terrified of messing up the organization of this trip despite all the hours spent on the forum.

Recognize us? Ha ha ha!!!! No, just kidding!!!! That’s us!!!

Hi everyone!

Let me introduce us quickly—I’m Matteo (21, originally from Paris, but I’ve been living near the Pyrenees and the Alps for the past 3 years), and my girlfriend Justine (21, grew up in the Alps). We’re starting to get really fed up with being cooped up and sitting in chairs (yep, we’re studying physics and geography at the École Normale Supérieure in Lyon). So, we’re taking a gap year to make a slightly crazy project happen: hitting the road, meeting people, and most importantly—climbing, skiing, and exploring the mountains!

We’ve always been into the mountains: •🧗‍♂️ 6c-7a/b sport climbing, 6b trad •❄️ Skiing and ice climbing (grade 4/5) •🏔️ Alpine climbing in the Alps (Chamonix, Écrins…) and the Pyrenees—I’m training to become a High Mountain Guide

Our project in a nutshell: •Buying a van (or 4x4) converted in British Columbia around September/October 2025. Ideally, we’d go straight to the US to buy the vehicle there (but reselling might be easier if we buy in Canada). •Heading down to the US to climb at legendary spots like Yosemite, Tuolumne (if it’s too hot), Indian Creek, Moab, and Joshua Tree. •Heading back up to the Canadian Rockies around December for skiing, ice climbing, and winter alpine climbing (might be easier to buy skis there). •Selling the vehicle in Canada at the end of the trip (we need to be back in France by early March 2026 because Justine is preparing for the AMM). I’ve already been to the Rockies, but I want to go back in winter for ice climbing. It’ll probably be too cold to sleep in the van, so we’re hoping to find a small cabin, lodge, or chalet (ideally alone or shared to cut costs). Otherwise, we could work for a month or two at a hostel or something to get free accommodation and earn money to rent a place another month just for climbing. •Visa-wise: we’re hoping to get our Working Holiday Visa (WHV) (still waiting for a response) so we can work there during the trip. For the US, we’ll stay as tourists (no work visa—too complicated and expensive). Any feedback on the WHV or differences from a regular work visa would be great. •With our savings (we’re working in mountain huts this summer), we should be able to buy the van. For daily expenses, I’m hoping to tutor online (math and physics). We live pretty simply and resourcefully: we plan to sleep mostly in the van, cook for ourselves, wash in rivers, and make the most of free nature spots. We’re super motivated, pretty well-rounded when it comes to mountain sports, and we’re not afraid to live simply for a year (we’ve got other projects too: biking to Greece with our climbing gear, a trip to Patagonia for alpine climbing).

Questions and advice: Of course, a road trip like this raises a lot of practical questions. This is our first time embarking on an adventure of this scale, so we’d love to hear your experiences and tips. If any of you have done a long van trip in North America or a WHV in Canada, your insights would be incredibly helpful! Here are some of the questions we’ve got: How do we buy (and later sell) a converted van in British Columbia? We’ll probably land in Vancouver. Is it better to look for a vehicle on online classifieds, Facebook groups, or used car dealerships? Are there any pitfalls to avoid when buying? And for selling it a year later, any tips to make it go smoothly (best time to sell, paperwork, etc.)? What budget should we plan for van life in North America and Canada? If you’ve got any info or feedback on the cost of living in a van in Canada/the US, we’d love to hear it. We’re thinking about expenses like gas (a big one, I imagine!), van maintenance, car insurance, possible tolls, campgrounds or paid spots, etc. We’d like to get an idea of a daily or monthly budget so we’re not too tight. In France, we never stay at campgrounds—we prefer being alone or going where we want. Is that possible in the US and Canada? Any tips for saving money (free camping spots, useful apps…) would be great! Visas, borders, and paperwork: We’re hoping to get a WHV for Canada, but in the US, we’ll be on a tourist visa (90 days max with ESTA, I think). Has anyone combined a WHV in Canada with a trip to the US on the same trip? Anything we should know about crossing the border in a van (insurance, customs, how long we’re allowed in the US, etc.)? We want to avoid any administrative hassles, so any advice on this would be super helpful. Route and seasonality for climbing and skiing: We’re thinking of starting climbing in the US around fall 2025 (probably September/October). Is that the right season for Yosemite, Indian Creek, and Moab? Any must-see spots along the way? For winter, we’re aiming for December to March in the Canadian Rockies (Banff, Jasper, Golden…) for skiing and ice climbing. Any tips on ice climbs or major backcountry skiing spots? We’ve got all our climbing, skiing, and alpine gear—should we bring it all or buy some stuff there? Is the “Wilderness Season Pass” for winter in the Rockies worth it? We came across this pass that offers 7 months of unlimited nights in HI mountain hostels in the Rockies. Has anyone here tried it? Are the dorms usually crowded? Working on the road: To fund the trip, we’re planning to work a bit along the way. Any tips for finding work in Canada while traveling (peak seasons at ski resorts, WWOOFing, odd jobs…)? That’s it for our (many) questions 😅! If you’ve done a similar trip—or even just parts of it (van life, climbing tour, winter in Canada…)—we’d love to hear your experiences, or even if you’re in the area and want to share a few days of climbing. All your contacts, advice, and tips will be a huge help.

Thanks in advance! We can’t wait to read your replies and refine our project with your help.

Matteo & Justine

PS: I’m looking for a summer job from August to September, preferably in a mountain hut (extra help, replacements, etc.). If you’ve got any contacts, don’t hesitate! I’ve also posted on another forum about this with my CV and cover letter (DEMANDE dxsdxsdsxdsx - Forum de www.refuges.info).

Hi everyone, so I’m planning to go study at a community college in the U.S., but the only snag is which one—there are so many options over there! I’ve heard about one in California, Diablo Valley College, and another in Florida, Valencia College. I know both states are super attractive for tourism, but my main criteria are teaching quality and price. I’m open to any advice, comments, or suggestions—thanks in advance! The start of the semester is coming up, and I’m a little nervous... READY, SET...... GO...... TO YOUR KEYBOARDS!!!!!!!! lol

😉Hi everyone!!! I’m a hairdresser in France and I’d really love to move to the United States or England... But how can I find a job before I leave? Where can I get information? Are there any organizations that help with this? Thanks so much for your replies🙂.

Here we go with this second travel journal dedicated to the American West! It’s a must when you love it! 😊

We had left off in the charming town of Bisbee, which once thrived thanks to its copper mines. Today, mining is a thing of the past, and the town seems a bit sleepy.

Unfortunately, I didn’t dig deep enough on-site to answer all the questions my observations raised. Guess I’ll have to *dig* into the subject a bit more... no pun intended! 😊

Let’s hop back in the car and head a little further south to check out the esplanade that offers a view—if you can call it that—of the impressive open-pit mine. Then, it’s off to the Lowell neighborhood.

Preserved almost exactly as it was, this area must’ve been bustling in its heyday. The vintage cars are still around, storefronts and signs look like they’re straight out of another era, and the whole place has a pretty amazing vibe. You’d almost think you were on Route 66!

Here, we’re not just discovering an old neighborhood—it’s a little slice of American history. And, a detail that’s great for my physical health: the area isn’t too spread out. Lucky me! 😊

I won’t post too many photos here since I think I can turn them into a future photo exhibit. Between these and some shots from Route 66, I should have more than enough material! So, let’s keep a few under wraps... to preserve the surprise. 😊

This adventure began during Covid... Yep, Covid turned a lot of things upside down, but most of all, it kept us cooped up for a few months and stopped us from traveling for a while—even longer for a die-hard fan of the American West like me.

While borders were closed, I started imagining what an ideal itinerary might look like—one that would string together all the Southwest must-sees in just two weeks, during the best time of year: September and October. When the U.S. announced in September 2021 that borders would reopen in the coming weeks, I regained hope and began scouting flight tickets for a departure in September 2022.

But here’s the thing: tackling solo hikes, each one tougher than the last, right in the heart of the Wilderness, could be a risky—even reckless—endeavor for a father of three. After a quick chat with some virtual friends who are just as passionate about the Southwest as I am, with good physical condition and nearly the same list of must-visit spots, Franck and his brother Sullivan were in! 🙂

In November, we snagged flight tickets from Nice to San Francisco for the modest sum of 400 €, and a few days later, I booked a Toyota Tacoma pickup for 840 € !

It’s not cheap for just 15 days, and a pickup isn’t exactly ideal for luggage, but the prices for full-size 4x4s have become totally outrageous! Due to border closures, rental companies had to offload a lot of these big 4x4s, which tourists love. Then, supply and demand did the rest !

Franck and I spent the winter and spring trying to cram the equivalent of three weeks of hikes into two. But even with physical limits, we had to stay reasonable! Three to four months before departure, we entered the lotteries for different must-see spots: The Subway, Coyote Buttes North (home to the famous Wave), and Coyote Buttes South (CBS).

The Wave is the holy grail for any Southwest enthusiast. Since 2015, we’ve tried our luck with the online and on-site lotteries about ten times, but the spots are unfortunately limited: just 20 per day. A glimmer of hope, though—since early 2022, that number has increased to 64 people allowed per day, with 48 spots awarded via the online lottery.

After all three of us tried our luck for The Wave, on June 1st at exactly 5 PM, I got an email that started with, "Congratulations! You were successful in the Coyote Buttes North (The Wave) September 2022 Permit Lottery at Coyote Buttes North (The Wave)...". At 5:01 PM, I called Franck, whose dream it’s been for over 20 years—ever since the first photos were published in a travel magazine! He didn’t believe me when I told him, and I had to forward the email for him to finally accept the unbelievable: we were going to The Wave and all the incredible spots scattered across the protected area of Coyote Buttes North.

I’ve already been to Coyote Buttes South twice, but there are areas I couldn’t explore in the middle of summer because they were too remote. So, I had no trouble letting my buddies convince me to go back for a third time. Plus, given how hard it is to access, we had no trouble securing a permit online as long as we logged in at exactly 8 PM on the dot!

For The Subway, all three of us struck out. No big deal—we won at CBN and CBS!

Among the sites to visit, there are two that I’m particularly attached to because I know my chances of wanting to see them again are slim. The first is Angel Arch, one of the most legendary arches in the Southwest, due to its remoteness from any trace of civilization. To get there, the recommended hike is Upper Salt Creek, and you’re looking at a 50 km round-trip in an area with no water (in September) and populated by bears.

The second site is the Hopi Salt Trail, in Navajo land, which, after a very tough hike, lets you marvel at the turquoise-blue waters of the Little Colorado before it meets the Colorado River. The Hopi Salt Trail is, like The Wave, the holy grail for any Southwest enthusiast, and the windows of opportunity to see the water in that magical color are very short each year. For this, you have to monitor the Little Colorado’s gauges downstream from Cameron: if the level stays at its lowest for 10 consecutive days—meaning no rain—you can hope for turquoise water. The ideal period rarely exceeds 30 days a year, and it’s usually in June that all the stars align.

But unfortunately, one month before departure, while the flow rate at Cameron looked promising, several storms in September dashed our hopes of doing the Hopi Salt Trail, even at the end of the road trip.

We still had two consolation prizes, though:

After a last-minute cancellation, while keeping an eye out for available spots for The Subway, it turned out that three spots opened up exactly on the day we’d planned to go—so we rushed to grab them!! Regarding the 4x4 rental, the prices for full-size models dropped by several hundred dollars, and we ended up finding a Chevrolet Tahoe for less than $1000. A steal and a serious boost in comfort, so we could store all our gear and food without worry!

Here’s the initial plan in a perfect world: D1 The White Domes - Camping D2 Sunrise at The White Domes - The Subway D3 Coyote Buttes North D4 Coyote Buttes South - White Pocket D5 Wahweap Hoodoos - Sidestep Canyon - Colourful Canyon - White Rocks - Sunset at Yellow Rock D6 Broken Bow Arch - Reflection Canyon D7 Coyote Gulch D8 The Volcano (or The Oasis - Zebra Slot Canyon if the weather’s good) - North Caineville Mesa D9 The Needles: Squaw Canyon - Lost Canyon combo - Druid Arch - Chesler Park D10 Upper Salt Creek Day 1 - Camping D11 Upper Salt Creek Day 2 D12 Hopi-Navajo Territory: Ha Ho No Geh Canyon, Coal Mine Canyon, Bends of the Little Colorado D13 Grand Canyon: South Kaibab Trail and Bright Angel Trail D14 Upper East Zion: East Temple Loop, Jughandle Arch, Center of the Universe, and Checkerboard Mesa Summit And several backup options in case of bad weather, including Spencer Trail, West Cove, and Buffington Pockets.

Enough talking—time for action!