Hello,
We want to book our tickets to visit the Acropolis site and the associated museum. For these reservations, we need to specify entry time slots.
For the Acropolis alone: the first slot is at 8:30 AM.
For the museum: 10 AM? 11 AM?
We like to wander around, so here’s our question: if we haven’t finished exploring the site after 1.5 hours, is it possible to go back in after leaving the museum?
We’ll be buying tickets from the official websites—audio guides are mentioned. Any feedback on those? On sites like Get Your Guide, the prices are much higher with the audio guide included, but does that mean better quality?
Thanks for your help
29 similar discussions in English
Hi there,
I’m planning a 3-week trip to Greece in July with my two daughters, aged 10 and 13.
After looking into it, I’m thinking of spending about ten days on the mainland and another ten in the Cyclades.
I’d like to avoid tourist traps but still hit a few must-see spots.
Could you share your best tips for renting a car on the mainland and what the budget might look like?
I’m all ears for any great tips (accommodation, activities with my girls, areas to avoid).
What’s a rough estimate for the total budget, all-inclusive?
Just to give you an idea, we’re experienced travelers who’ve already done a round-the-world trip.
We’re pretty adventurous, even though it’s a vacation—though we won’t be staying in no-frills hostels either!
Thanks! :)
Curious travelers all share the same wish: to discover a country or region by stepping off the beaten path and avoiding tourist traps. Who wouldn’t agree with that?
But does that mean we should skip the tourist sites that guidebooks and local tourism offices tout as must-sees? Of course not!
On the Greek island of Rhodes, Lindos, the "Pearl of the South," is undoubtedly the most visited village. Making the trip there is enough to understand its appeal—and I’ll admit, I too fell under the spell of this enchanting place. Through this post and these photos, I want to share my memories, impressions, and a lot of my enthusiasm.
First, there’s that stunning panoramic view you get from the road when arriving from the north of the island. The urge to stop is irresistible.
Perched on a rocky spur, an imposing citadel overlooks a village with that classic Greek charm—whitewashed houses. At the foot of the hill, you can see a perfectly curved bay (the arc is almost flawless) with deep blue waters bordering a lovely stretch of light sand...
With an artist’s eye, you could say this landscape is an ideal painting, and what a beautiful palette of colors! A photographer’s eye will be delighted by the balance of the composition, and any traveler who loves beautiful scenery will simply be captivated by this exceptional view.
This plunging viewpoint is a delicious preview of the site, making me eager to discover more and see Lindos in every detail.
The road winds along the mountainside for about two kilometers before reaching the destination—well, you quickly realize you can’t drive into the narrow alleys! No, you have to leave your car in the parking lots near the village. Spaces are already filling up with private cars and a neat line of tour buses—so we won’t be the only ones visiting Lindos this morning!
The main street, at the heart of the village, is a succession of cafés, tavernas serving ouzo/feta/moussaka, and souvenir shops (T-shirts, pottery, trinkets, flags...). At peak hours, it’s the usual tourist hustle and bustle—easy to imagine.
Fortunately, just a few steps down a side alley, and you quickly find calm and almost solitude.
Aren’t there any cats in Lindos? Not really—domestic felines are everywhere in the village’s alleys. Here are two: a black-and-white one resting on a windowsill and another, all white, heading toward a dead end. In that narrow lane sits an elderly man, his face weathered by the sun, with a salt-and-pepper mustache. Our eyes meet, and I greet him with a "Kalimera" (good morning in Greek, one of the few words I know in the local language!). That earns me a hint of a smile, followed by a question. He’s asking for a cigarette—sorry, my friend, but I don’t smoke!
Wandering, observing, even getting lost in these narrow alleys—that’s how to truly appreciate Lindos. Dazzling white walls, beautiful homes (some dating back to the 15th century), entrances framed by Gothic arches, and wreaths or bouquets of dried flowers adorning the facades. Here and there, muffled conversations can be heard through half-closed shutters, and an ajar door offers a glimpse of lovely inner courtyards where the reds and purples of bougainvillea contrast with the white walls. The locals also add beautiful decorative touches to the floors of patios or stair steps, with black-and-white pebble mosaics forming geometric patterns.
At times, the silence of the alleys away from the center is broken by the puttering of a scooter or hybrid vehicles—half-scooter, half-van—that barely squeeze between the walls of the narrow lanes!
After crisscrossing this real labyrinth, I arrive in front of the village’s main church, the Church of Panagia. A beautiful building dedicated to the Virgin, restored in the 15th century by the Knights of the Order of St. John.
Looking up to admire the bell tower of this Greek Orthodox church, I catch a glimpse among the clustered rooftops of part of the fortifications overlooking the town—the next step in my discovery of Lindos’ heritage.
To reach the citadel’s rock, you’re offered "Lindos taxis" at every corner—donkey rides. The effect is guaranteed for tourists discouraged by the 115 meters of elevation to climb to reach the ramparts: bursts of laughter, donkey hooves slipping on the cobblestones, and the capricious moods of these sometimes stubborn animals. Hee-haw!
You guessed it—I chose to walk up the path along the mountainside. The route reveals magnificent panoramas of the village and the coast, lined with pink oleanders, and you breathe in the fresh air among the olive trees—though sometimes the unmistakable smell of donkey droppings fills the air, with the sea breeze helping to disperse it.
Climbing the fortress steps is like traveling back in time. Here, the testimonies of Lindos’ rich history unfold before visitors’ eyes.
First, the imposing ramparts, built in the Middle Ages by the Knights of the Order of St. John—master builders of defensive structures whose primary mission was to aid and care for pilgrims wounded during the Crusades.
Within the fortifications, you’ll also find the remains of a Byzantine-era church from the 13th century, with its frescoes and murals. Further up, at the top of the rocks, you encounter ancient Greece: the acropolis and the temple dedicated to the goddess Athena. According to historians, the first inhabitants of the site were the Minoans, around 1200 BCE. An ambitious architectural restoration program aims to bring this past back to life.
But once you reach the ancient esplanade, most visitors head straight for the ramparts. The view through their openings is simply breathtaking and dizzying. On the sea side, the cliff drops steeply, and at the foot of the cliffs lies another bay, its shape reminiscent of a heart. Turquoise waters and a small white chapel surrounded by oleanders.
Seeing this panorama, you tell yourself you absolutely must visit it before leaving Lindos.
On the village side, the view is just as stunning—a true aerial perspective of the entire town and its charming white houses. You can easily spot the church with its red-tiled roof. Among the cluster of houses, some have flat rooftops—these belonged to the captains. Lindos was once an important commercial port, strategically located on the maritime route from Europe to the East. From their terraces, these famous ship captains could watch the comings and goings of their vessels.
Back then, Lindos was the capital of Rhodes and had nearly 17,000 inhabitants—far more than the 700 current residents. But these locals proudly claim Lindos is still the capital of Rhodes—well, a tourist capital, at least!
From the vantage point of these ramparts, you also overlook the tiny beach below. The sight of it can only make you want to take a dip—my next stop, a welcome break after the historical and cultural visit.
Walking back through the village via different alleys, I pass some beautiful homes and new chapels, like the one I’m in front of now—a white dome, a classic example of Greek island religious architecture. Dedicated to St. George, it dates back to the 14th century.
Time for some beach fun—that’s Lindos too! A chance to take a dip in crystal-clear, delicious waters with that unmistakable view of Lindos as your backdrop.
Now, heading toward St. Paul’s Bay—the one I spotted from the citadel. Seen from ground level, it’s even more charming, with its little white chapel nestled against the cliffs. The bay and the church are named after the Apostle Paul. History—or legend—tells of the religious figure stopping here during a journey between Ephesus and Syria.
These days, the chapel is a hit with newlyweds—celebrations seem to be back-to-back this afternoon. The idyllic setting is perfect for a beautiful keepsake photo, as any amateur photographer would agree!
As the hours pass, the flow of day-trippers thins out, and Lindos regains a sense of calm and authenticity that suits it so well. As if by magic, the fading light bathes the village in a golden hue—worth admiring without restraint.
Though Lindos is well sheltered from the sea, nestled in its protective cove, its entire past is oriented toward the open water. To etch this unique site even deeper into my memory, I want to see Lindos again from the sea.
The boat, "Captain Manolis," is ready. This morning, we’re at the pebble beach of Vlicha, just a short distance from the village.
The start of the voyage takes us along stark rocky cliffs—a mineral world animated by seabirds, which is classic, but also by goats, which is more unusual. These sure-footed caprins navigate the cliffside along the rock strata—no fear of heights here!
Then, your gaze is drawn to Lindos again, always Lindos—a viewpoint that’s also worth the detour: perched fortifications, white village, and a broad expanse of deep blue in the foreground.
A palette of blues enriched by the waters of the bay just south of the village. The play of light, the reflection of the sky, the transparency of the sea, combined with sandy seabeds, create a breathtaking result: an unreal, almost magical shade of blue. The deep blue!
Puff! Puff! Puff! The boat’s engine slows down. Our captain seems focused and attentive as we navigate through a narrow corridor of jagged rocks. These impressive cliffs have sparked sailors’ imaginations, and our captain points out the lion. A wild feline in the area? Not exactly, but a rock whose shape might suggest a lion’s head—why not, from a certain angle? Just as you start to see the resemblance, the image fades—a fleeting lion, like a mirage.
Twilight also offers visitors fleeting and magical sights. As the deep blue envelops the atmosphere, the lights enhance Lindos’ panorama.
And to add an original and aesthetic touch (as if it were needed!), the amateur photographer in me plays with my camera’s aperture to make the bay and village sparkle with dozens of stars. Isn’t Lindos called the "Pearl of the South"? A pearl that sometimes shines brilliantly!
LINDOS ISLAND OF RHODES (GREECE) May 2011
Tips: To avoid the crowds of tourists arriving (by boat and especially by bus or car!) for a day trip, it’s best to arrive before 9 AM. Also note: the visit to the Citadel/Ancient Ruins starts at 8:30 AM and closes at 3 PM. Ticket to access the site: 6 €. In the late afternoon, the lighting is beautiful over the village—a splendid viewpoint from the road leading to St. Paul’s Bay. Boat excursion with "Captain Manolis": daily departures (May to September) from Vlicha Beach (a bay 3 km north of Lindos), 25 €.
But does that mean we should skip the tourist sites that guidebooks and local tourism offices tout as must-sees? Of course not!
On the Greek island of Rhodes, Lindos, the "Pearl of the South," is undoubtedly the most visited village. Making the trip there is enough to understand its appeal—and I’ll admit, I too fell under the spell of this enchanting place. Through this post and these photos, I want to share my memories, impressions, and a lot of my enthusiasm.
First, there’s that stunning panoramic view you get from the road when arriving from the north of the island. The urge to stop is irresistible.
Perched on a rocky spur, an imposing citadel overlooks a village with that classic Greek charm—whitewashed houses. At the foot of the hill, you can see a perfectly curved bay (the arc is almost flawless) with deep blue waters bordering a lovely stretch of light sand...
With an artist’s eye, you could say this landscape is an ideal painting, and what a beautiful palette of colors! A photographer’s eye will be delighted by the balance of the composition, and any traveler who loves beautiful scenery will simply be captivated by this exceptional view.
This plunging viewpoint is a delicious preview of the site, making me eager to discover more and see Lindos in every detail.
The road winds along the mountainside for about two kilometers before reaching the destination—well, you quickly realize you can’t drive into the narrow alleys! No, you have to leave your car in the parking lots near the village. Spaces are already filling up with private cars and a neat line of tour buses—so we won’t be the only ones visiting Lindos this morning!
The main street, at the heart of the village, is a succession of cafés, tavernas serving ouzo/feta/moussaka, and souvenir shops (T-shirts, pottery, trinkets, flags...). At peak hours, it’s the usual tourist hustle and bustle—easy to imagine.
Fortunately, just a few steps down a side alley, and you quickly find calm and almost solitude.
Aren’t there any cats in Lindos? Not really—domestic felines are everywhere in the village’s alleys. Here are two: a black-and-white one resting on a windowsill and another, all white, heading toward a dead end. In that narrow lane sits an elderly man, his face weathered by the sun, with a salt-and-pepper mustache. Our eyes meet, and I greet him with a "Kalimera" (good morning in Greek, one of the few words I know in the local language!). That earns me a hint of a smile, followed by a question. He’s asking for a cigarette—sorry, my friend, but I don’t smoke!
Wandering, observing, even getting lost in these narrow alleys—that’s how to truly appreciate Lindos. Dazzling white walls, beautiful homes (some dating back to the 15th century), entrances framed by Gothic arches, and wreaths or bouquets of dried flowers adorning the facades. Here and there, muffled conversations can be heard through half-closed shutters, and an ajar door offers a glimpse of lovely inner courtyards where the reds and purples of bougainvillea contrast with the white walls. The locals also add beautiful decorative touches to the floors of patios or stair steps, with black-and-white pebble mosaics forming geometric patterns.
At times, the silence of the alleys away from the center is broken by the puttering of a scooter or hybrid vehicles—half-scooter, half-van—that barely squeeze between the walls of the narrow lanes!
After crisscrossing this real labyrinth, I arrive in front of the village’s main church, the Church of Panagia. A beautiful building dedicated to the Virgin, restored in the 15th century by the Knights of the Order of St. John.
Looking up to admire the bell tower of this Greek Orthodox church, I catch a glimpse among the clustered rooftops of part of the fortifications overlooking the town—the next step in my discovery of Lindos’ heritage.
To reach the citadel’s rock, you’re offered "Lindos taxis" at every corner—donkey rides. The effect is guaranteed for tourists discouraged by the 115 meters of elevation to climb to reach the ramparts: bursts of laughter, donkey hooves slipping on the cobblestones, and the capricious moods of these sometimes stubborn animals. Hee-haw!
You guessed it—I chose to walk up the path along the mountainside. The route reveals magnificent panoramas of the village and the coast, lined with pink oleanders, and you breathe in the fresh air among the olive trees—though sometimes the unmistakable smell of donkey droppings fills the air, with the sea breeze helping to disperse it.
Climbing the fortress steps is like traveling back in time. Here, the testimonies of Lindos’ rich history unfold before visitors’ eyes.
First, the imposing ramparts, built in the Middle Ages by the Knights of the Order of St. John—master builders of defensive structures whose primary mission was to aid and care for pilgrims wounded during the Crusades.
Within the fortifications, you’ll also find the remains of a Byzantine-era church from the 13th century, with its frescoes and murals. Further up, at the top of the rocks, you encounter ancient Greece: the acropolis and the temple dedicated to the goddess Athena. According to historians, the first inhabitants of the site were the Minoans, around 1200 BCE. An ambitious architectural restoration program aims to bring this past back to life.
But once you reach the ancient esplanade, most visitors head straight for the ramparts. The view through their openings is simply breathtaking and dizzying. On the sea side, the cliff drops steeply, and at the foot of the cliffs lies another bay, its shape reminiscent of a heart. Turquoise waters and a small white chapel surrounded by oleanders.
Seeing this panorama, you tell yourself you absolutely must visit it before leaving Lindos.
On the village side, the view is just as stunning—a true aerial perspective of the entire town and its charming white houses. You can easily spot the church with its red-tiled roof. Among the cluster of houses, some have flat rooftops—these belonged to the captains. Lindos was once an important commercial port, strategically located on the maritime route from Europe to the East. From their terraces, these famous ship captains could watch the comings and goings of their vessels.
Back then, Lindos was the capital of Rhodes and had nearly 17,000 inhabitants—far more than the 700 current residents. But these locals proudly claim Lindos is still the capital of Rhodes—well, a tourist capital, at least!
From the vantage point of these ramparts, you also overlook the tiny beach below. The sight of it can only make you want to take a dip—my next stop, a welcome break after the historical and cultural visit.
Walking back through the village via different alleys, I pass some beautiful homes and new chapels, like the one I’m in front of now—a white dome, a classic example of Greek island religious architecture. Dedicated to St. George, it dates back to the 14th century.
Time for some beach fun—that’s Lindos too! A chance to take a dip in crystal-clear, delicious waters with that unmistakable view of Lindos as your backdrop.
Now, heading toward St. Paul’s Bay—the one I spotted from the citadel. Seen from ground level, it’s even more charming, with its little white chapel nestled against the cliffs. The bay and the church are named after the Apostle Paul. History—or legend—tells of the religious figure stopping here during a journey between Ephesus and Syria.
These days, the chapel is a hit with newlyweds—celebrations seem to be back-to-back this afternoon. The idyllic setting is perfect for a beautiful keepsake photo, as any amateur photographer would agree!
As the hours pass, the flow of day-trippers thins out, and Lindos regains a sense of calm and authenticity that suits it so well. As if by magic, the fading light bathes the village in a golden hue—worth admiring without restraint.
Though Lindos is well sheltered from the sea, nestled in its protective cove, its entire past is oriented toward the open water. To etch this unique site even deeper into my memory, I want to see Lindos again from the sea.
The boat, "Captain Manolis," is ready. This morning, we’re at the pebble beach of Vlicha, just a short distance from the village.
The start of the voyage takes us along stark rocky cliffs—a mineral world animated by seabirds, which is classic, but also by goats, which is more unusual. These sure-footed caprins navigate the cliffside along the rock strata—no fear of heights here!
Then, your gaze is drawn to Lindos again, always Lindos—a viewpoint that’s also worth the detour: perched fortifications, white village, and a broad expanse of deep blue in the foreground.
A palette of blues enriched by the waters of the bay just south of the village. The play of light, the reflection of the sky, the transparency of the sea, combined with sandy seabeds, create a breathtaking result: an unreal, almost magical shade of blue. The deep blue!
Puff! Puff! Puff! The boat’s engine slows down. Our captain seems focused and attentive as we navigate through a narrow corridor of jagged rocks. These impressive cliffs have sparked sailors’ imaginations, and our captain points out the lion. A wild feline in the area? Not exactly, but a rock whose shape might suggest a lion’s head—why not, from a certain angle? Just as you start to see the resemblance, the image fades—a fleeting lion, like a mirage.
Twilight also offers visitors fleeting and magical sights. As the deep blue envelops the atmosphere, the lights enhance Lindos’ panorama.
And to add an original and aesthetic touch (as if it were needed!), the amateur photographer in me plays with my camera’s aperture to make the bay and village sparkle with dozens of stars. Isn’t Lindos called the "Pearl of the South"? A pearl that sometimes shines brilliantly!
LINDOS ISLAND OF RHODES (GREECE) May 2011Tips: To avoid the crowds of tourists arriving (by boat and especially by bus or car!) for a day trip, it’s best to arrive before 9 AM. Also note: the visit to the Citadel/Ancient Ruins starts at 8:30 AM and closes at 3 PM. Ticket to access the site: 6 €. In the late afternoon, the lighting is beautiful over the village—a splendid viewpoint from the road leading to St. Paul’s Bay. Boat excursion with "Captain Manolis": daily departures (May to September) from Vlicha Beach (a bay 3 km north of Lindos), 25 €.
Hello everyone,
If you'd like, I invite you to join me for a week-long cruise to northern Greece, visiting ports that are often less crowded with cruise ships.
Itinerary: Athens, Skiathos, Volos, Thessaloniki, Kavala, Limnos, Hydra, Athens
If you'd like, I invite you to join me for a week-long cruise to northern Greece, visiting ports that are often less crowded with cruise ships.
Itinerary: Athens, Skiathos, Volos, Thessaloniki, Kavala, Limnos, Hydra, Athens
Hi everyone!
Blue skies (lots of them), whitewashed villages with steep alleyways, hundreds of churches, and... thousands of stairs? Welcome to the Cyclades! 🙂
We’d been dreaming about this for a while, but in July-August—with the crowds—no way! Now that I can travel outside school holidays, the Cyclades are back on the agenda. And so begins a loooong period of planning and second-guessing, with countless itinerary changes: the Cyclades, yes, but which ones? I was fixated on Folegandros (we won’t be going after all) and really wanted to visit Delos. So, for this first trip, it’ll be: Mykonos (and Delos)-Naxos-Amorgos-Santorini.
Saturday 24/05: Departure from Orly on a Transavia flight, arriving in Mykonos in the late afternoon. We found a hotel that offers free transfers (pretty rare and not insignificant—it’s 25 € each way for just a few kilometers 😠) and at a reasonable price (83 € per night for B&B). Time for dinner already: Greek salad and souvlaki (we’re in Greece, right?)
(Okay, this is actually a dakos with Naxos cheese, but I don’t have a photo of a Greek salad 😏).
Blue skies (lots of them), whitewashed villages with steep alleyways, hundreds of churches, and... thousands of stairs? Welcome to the Cyclades! 🙂
We’d been dreaming about this for a while, but in July-August—with the crowds—no way! Now that I can travel outside school holidays, the Cyclades are back on the agenda. And so begins a loooong period of planning and second-guessing, with countless itinerary changes: the Cyclades, yes, but which ones? I was fixated on Folegandros (we won’t be going after all) and really wanted to visit Delos. So, for this first trip, it’ll be: Mykonos (and Delos)-Naxos-Amorgos-Santorini.
Saturday 24/05: Departure from Orly on a Transavia flight, arriving in Mykonos in the late afternoon. We found a hotel that offers free transfers (pretty rare and not insignificant—it’s 25 € each way for just a few kilometers 😠) and at a reasonable price (83 € per night for B&B). Time for dinner already: Greek salad and souvlaki (we’re in Greece, right?)
(Okay, this is actually a dakos with Naxos cheese, but I don’t have a photo of a Greek salad 😏).Travel journal in Eastern Crete from September 8th to 29th, 2024
Our 21-day itinerary
Sunday, 08/09: Once again—and this is the eighth time—we’re setting off, the four of us: Patrick, Michelle, Jacques, and Monique, for the Greek islands. This time, we’ve chosen Crete. No need to wake up at 3 or 4 a.m. to reach Basel-Mulhouse Airport at dawn to catch the first flight to Greece at 6 a.m.! Given the prohibitive prices charged by EasyJet, we found flights that were half the price from Zurich Airport, which is accessible in 3 hours by train from Colmar. Pierre-Paul drives all four of us to Colmar train station, where we take the train to Basel and then, 20 minutes later, the direct train to Zurich Airport. After wandering around the airport, we go for a coffee at 6 € each! We’re in Switzerland, after all. The other dining areas all have vending machines for selecting and paying for meals—soon, there won’t be anyone left to serve you! After a short wait, we take off at 7:45 p.m. (20 minutes late) in an Aegean Airbus A321. Free in-flight meal service isn’t bad either! We land in Heraklion around 11:15 p.m. We pick up our rental car (a red Seat Ibiza) at the airport and head straight to our apartment, located 2 km from the city center. Thanks to the GPS, we find it quickly. It’s a beautiful, fully renovated apartment with all the comforts and well-equipped. On the table, there’s wine, bottles of water, jam, coffee, etc. Given the late hour, we won’t stay up long.
Monday, 09/09: To enhance our breakfast, Michelle and Monique set off to find a bakery nearby. They return with croissants and donuts—yum... Then we head to the west coast. The highway follows the coastline, but we prefer taking the old road to Malia, our first stop. We visit the major archaeological site of this Minoan city under the hot sun. The site covers a vast area, but the ruins aren’t very evocative except for a few beautiful amphorae scattered around. The explanations in a small house at the entrance are interesting and help us better understand the organization of the ancient city with its different districts. From there, we head toward the nearby mountains to see the thousand-year-old plane tree in the village of Krasi. We take the opportunity to enjoy an excellent lunch of moussaka and delicious gemista at the Krassopsychia taverna in the village center. Pleasant surprise: the prices are still reasonable, with a bill of 70 € for four, including wine and water. The friendly tradition of complimentary dessert and glasses of raki continues—great! We’ve set the bar high right away! Let’s hope the rest lives up to it! On the way back toward the Lassithi Plateau, we stop at the Kardiotisa Monastery perched high on the mountain to enjoy a magnificent view of the entire region. Just a little further, we arrive at the Lassithi Plateau: the presence of small windmills used to pump water from the ground is the typical feature of this plateau. We complete a full loop around the plateau, passing by numerous orchards and vegetable gardens that occupy the entire space. At the end of the plateau, we once again cross mountain passes via winding roads that bring us near Agios Nikolaos. Our apartment is located about ten kilometers further south in Amoudhara. The owner, who was notified, waits for us and shows us her superb apartment, whose large terrace overlooks the entire Mirabello Bay. She then gives us valuable information about the different beaches in the area. Dinner will be frugal, given our hearty lunch in Krasi!
Sunset over Mirabello Bay
Tuesday, 10/09: A bit of a gray sky when we wake up around 8 a.m., but the sun will soon triumph over the scattered clouds. For our first swim, we opt for Voulisma Beach, even though our host warned us it was a bit “crowdy.” That’s understandable given the beautiful emerald color of the sea and the lovely curve of the beach. To avoid the big crowds, we move toward the eastern part of the beach, accessible via a steep staircase. The water is very warm, and this first dip is very pleasant. Before returning to the apartment, we stop at the bakery to buy spinach pies, essential ingredients to accompany our Greek salad for lunch. Of course, everything will be washed down with ouzo, which will remain our favorite drink for the next three weeks—but in moderation!!! A nap is in order after all that effort. In the late afternoon, we drive to Agios Nikolaos, the main seaside resort in Crete. We’re not too enthusiastic about visiting this mass-tourism resort, but the center of Agios, concentrated around the small inner harbor, is pleasant to see despite the plethora of shops and restaurants. We dine a little outside the harbor in the shaded courtyard of the Avli taverna: the oven-baked lamb, squid with spinach, and cuttlefish ink orzo pasta are all highly appreciated. We still stay under a 75 € bill for four.
Mirabello Bay seen from our terrace
Wednesday, 11/09: At 8 a.m., the terrace is already bathed in sunlight, and it’s already quite hot. The small parasol barely gives us enough shade, but we’re not complaining! For our second swim, we head to a tiny beach recommended by our host, just 3 minutes by car from our place. The path leading to it is very discreet, and we don’t find it right away! It’s a small sandy cove with a few welcome tamarisk trees for shade. When we arrive, there are two swimmers, and there won’t be more than five or six in the morning. After lunch and a nap, we head to the beautiful village of Kritsa, just a few kilometers away. It’s too late to visit the beautiful church of Kera Panagia, which is already closed. We settle for the exterior, which is worth a look. The weather is clouding over, and big clouds are gathering. Upon arriving in Kritsa, a heavy shower forces us to take shelter in the Platanos taverna in the village center, and since it’s nearly 7 p.m., we decide to stay and dine there. Good choice—excellent meze: croquettes and stuffed zucchini flowers, gigantes beans, grilled tomatoes and feta, and pancetta as the main dish. The rain stops just as we decide to head back.
Village of Kritsa
Thursday, 12/09: Our terrace faces east, so we get to watch the sunrise around 7 a.m.—it’s truly a beautiful sight we never tire of. Around 9 a.m., we head to the village of Plaka, where boats depart for the island of Spinalonga, located north of Agios Nikolaos. We board the first boat, which sets sail at 10 a.m., and we’re not alone—the boat is practically full. After 10 minutes, we land on the island at the same time as several other boats from Elounda or Agios. Needless to say, there are already quite a few people walking through the streets of the leper village. The visit remains interesting and moving as we read the explanatory panels recounting the island’s history under Byzantine and then Turkish rule, followed by its transformation into a leper colony. As soon as we climb toward the top of the island via more or less maintained paths, there’s almost no one left. The 360° view from up there is stunning.
Spinalonga Island
The heat is now unbearable, and we can’t wait to get back home to have lunch on our terrace and rest. In the late afternoon, we go grocery shopping at the AB supermarket at the entrance of Agios. We had spotted another nice restaurant in our guide, but unfortunately, there’s a different one at the indicated location that doesn’t inspire us. So, we return to the Avli taverna for another dinner just as good as the first.
Friday, 13/09: We repeat yesterday’s successful program: a swim in our little cove, lunch on the terrace, a nap, and then, in the late afternoon, we discover another nearby village, Kroustas, nestled in the olive groves near Kritsa. Much less touristy than Kritsa, it’s mostly inhabited by locals, especially the elderly who are enjoying the cool air on their chairs—if you can call it cool given the still-high temperatures in the late afternoon! We then return to visit Kritsa, which we hadn’t been able to explore due to the rain. Dinner at a taverna in the village center at a very reasonable price.
Saturday, 14/09: Today, we move to our new base further east. We start with a high viewpoint at the Faneromeni Monastery, which overlooks Mirabello Bay. The monastery itself is of little interest as it’s under renovation with excessive concrete work. We continue to the village of Kavoussi to see another exceptional tree after a few kilometers on a dusty, bumpy track. It’s an olive tree said to be about 3,200 years old—impressive, and the countryside is very beautiful. It’s time to find a place for lunch. We find one in the charming little port of Mohlos, where a few tavernas surround a very nice small beach. Our choice falls on the Bogazzi taverna, where we enjoy fried fish. To reach our new base in Zakros, we still have to drive through the mountains before reaching Sitia, Paleokastro, and finally Zakros. The region is beautiful, with olive groves and rows of wind turbines taking advantage of the strong wind near the northern tip of the island. In Zakros, we’re greeted by our very friendly host. Here too, we have all the comforts and a beautiful terrace overlooking the village. The apartment has reversible air conditioners, but the overly simple instructions leave us puzzled. Thinking we’ve set it correctly, we realize a little too late that it’s blowing hot air over 30°C! After numerous attempts and testing several confusing programs, we finally succeed! Dinner on our new terrace.
Sunday, 15/09: This morning, we get up early to hike in the “Gorge of the Dead” while it’s still cool. The sky is blue as usual! We park in the nearest parking lot and start our descent via a beautiful path winding through the olive groves. A little further on, the landscape opens up, and the path, now a stony trail, begins the descent to the dry riverbed. On either side of the riverbed rise beautiful reddish cliffs.
Gorge of the Dead
The trail winds its way through this narrow gorge with difficulty. It was in the many caves visible halfway up the slope that the Minoans buried their dead, hence the name “Gorge of the Dead.” The gorge opens onto a beautiful small pebble beach. A swim is welcome after this hike that made us sweat. The hike took us 1 hour and 25 minutes, and a little less on the way back. Meanwhile, Monique did some shopping and prepared an excellent lunch. In the late afternoon, we go down to dine at Platanakis, a taverna in the small village of Kato Zakros.
Monday, 16/09: This morning, we explore the northern part of the east coast near Palekastro. We start with a dip at the beautiful Hionia Beach near Palekastro. The water is still just as nice, but a light breeze is blowing—not enough to spoil our fun! Seeing all the wind turbines lining the ridges, it’s no surprise.
Grocery shopping in Palekastro and return to Zakros. A little rain in the late afternoon and an excellent dinner at Iannis Mitsakakis’ Taverna in Adravastis. These are the kind of small tavernas we love—unpretentious, a few tables on a terrace, a warm welcome, a short menu guaranteeing freshness, tasty dishes prepared by the server’s mom, and a light bill. What more could you ask for!
Tuesday, 17/09: We head back toward Palekastro to do some shopping, but it’s also the road to the Toplou Monastery. There, we see a collection of magnificent icons dating from the 15th to the 20th century. We can also admire drawings of Orthodox religious architecture. We continue toward the Mavros Akrotiri headland to enjoy the view of the sea and rocky capes. On the way back to our place, we make a small detour to see the famous Vai palm grove. Meh... As for Vai Beach, it’s filled with paid umbrellas and sunbeds, and there are so many people that we flee. Plus, having to pay for parking is another reason to snub this trendy beach. We prefer our Hionia Beach, which we already appreciated the other day. In the late afternoon, Pat and I start the trail that begins at Kato Zakros Beach heading south. The poorly marked path crosses a plateau of sharp limestone. The paint and cairn markings are no longer very visible, and with dusk approaching, we turn back toward Kato Zakros. Dinner at the Platanakis taverna—less good than last time.
Wednesday, 18/09: To avoid the scorching sun, Pat, Mimi, and I get up earlier than usual to hike the Hohlakies Gorge. At this early hour, the sky is quite cloudy, and it’s drizzling. When we arrive in the village of Hohlakies, we park in front of a small chapel, the start of the hike. The sky is now completely clear. The trail starts among the olive groves, then after passing through a gate, we descend into the gorge filled with large rocks. We’re alone in the world, and the landscape is magnificent. A few wild goats clinging to the cliff watch us from above. After 1 hour and 15 minutes, we emerge onto the wonderful Karoumès Beach. A pleasant swim, then back to civilization! A walk in the late afternoon in Zakros to discover the beautiful springs route. Dinner in Adravastis.
Thursday, 19/09: Another move: Before heading to our next stop, we make a detour to see the beautiful Keratokampos Beach and can’t resist a swim in the still-warm, clear water. We continue our journey via Ziros, then reach the south coast and have lunch at the Stephi taverna in Ferma—excellent meal! The south coast is quite urbanized and has much less charm than the east coast we’ve just left! The numerous plastic greenhouses are partly to blame. We stop for groceries in Ierapetra. Around 3 p.m., we arrive at our destination in the small perched village of Anatoli. Our lodging is at the top of the village, and from the path leading to it, we have a magnificent view of the coastal plain, unfortunately overloaded with plastic greenhouses. It reminds us of the landscapes of El Ejido in Andalusia.
View of the Ierapetra coast from Anatoli
Friday, 20/09: A walk and discovery of the hamlet of Anatoli. There are few services—a tiny grocery store, a taverna, and that’s it. Fortunately, the traveling baker arrives and honks. We take the opportunity to buy fresh bread. Leaving the village, we take a path that should lead us to the hamlet of Drygies. The landscape is beautiful. We walk through a lovely pine forest before arriving at the hamlet. The path continues to a taverna that’s closed today, with a superb terrace overlooking the coast. Luckily, the owner arrives and informs us that the taverna will be open next Sunday and that we can enjoy barbecued meat. Noted! We head back to Anatoli via the small paved road with, fortunately, very limited traffic. Lunch on our terrace, then a dip in our private pool! The water is noticeably cooler than at the beach. Dinner at the village taverna: there’s only one menu—meze starters, souvlaki, water, wine, and bread—all for 35 €! We think we’re dreaming—was there a mistake? No.
Saturday, 21/09: We discover the beach of the village of Myrtos, a small seaside resort that’s quite touristy but on a human scale. We swim in the western part of the beach, and once again, we’re alone in the water. The best part: warm water and tamarisk trees for welcome shade. There’s even a shower to rinse off! In the late afternoon, Pat and I decide to go for a hike in the Selakano pine forest. To get there, we take a narrow, winding, and poorly paved road after the village of Christos. Plus, at this altitude, we encounter clouds clinging to the mountain, so it’s drizzling, and visibility is reduced. We decide to turn back and return to Anatoli. As compensation, we take the path that passes in front of the lodging and leads us to the Timios Stavros chapel, which crowns the summit of the nearby mountain. We arrive at the summit just in time for the sunset at 7 p.m. Breathtaking 360° panorama and magnificent colors!
Sunset from Anatoli
Sunday, 22/09: This morning, Pat, Mimi, and I go for a hike in the Sarakina Gorge, located about 12 km from Anatoli via a beautiful road winding through irrigated olive groves. We park in the small parking lot before the trail. At the start, the path follows a levada (small irrigation canal) and quickly enters a very narrow gorge flanked by high cliffs. The riverbed is cluttered with huge rocks blocking the passage. No matter—in the technical sections, ropes or ladders allow us to overcome these obstacles with a bit of skill. You can imagine how quickly the riverbed must rise during a storm, given the narrowness of the gorge!
We progress slowly through this magnificent and impressive rocky chaos. At the exit of the gorge, we take another return path that partly follows the paved road. Back in Anatoli, we go to lunch at the Drygies taverna. We sit at the edge of the terrace under a huge tree that covers almost the entire terrace and order grilled lamb dishes prepared according to the ancient “antikristo” method.
Monday, 23/09: Departure for our last stop before Heraklion. We thought about swimming at Tertsa Beach, but it turns out to be less pleasant than expected, with pebbles and an uneven rocky plateau. So, we return to Myrtos Beach, which we know well and suits us perfectly. We head west, leaving the coast a bit. Around 3:30 p.m., we arrive at our destination in the village of Kamilari, near the famous Matala spot. We’ve rented a beautiful, modern, well-equipped apartment with a lovely shaded terrace. The owner is very friendly and explains everything necessary for a good stay. We explore the quite touristy village with its few tavernas, all full of tourists, mostly Germans.
Tuesday, 24/09: Visit to the village of Sivas, well restored thanks to the Germans, who have invested a lot here. We take the opportunity to scout out “friendly” tavernas, then go for a swim at Kalamaki Beach. Apart from a small sandy access, you have to enter the water via a chaotic limestone plateau—proof of this is that Monique trips slightly when entering the water. A group of very unfriendly German women blocks the sandy passage and doesn’t hesitate to push swimmers they deem too close. Back home, lunch, and a nap. In the late afternoon, we drive to visit the nearby Phaistos site. We benefit from very beautiful lighting. From the elevated site, we overlook the Messara Plain with a beautiful view of the olive grove checkerboards highlighted by the late afternoon sun. The site itself is quite vast, but to appreciate it, it’s better to read the explanatory panels placed throughout the different quarters. At this hour, the site is almost empty, and the beautiful light adds charm to the visit.
Wednesday, 25/09: Departure for the village of Matala, which doesn’t interest us in itself, having been there during the “hippie” era in 1976. However, going to Red Beach, only accessible by taking a path overlooking this area, appeals to us much more. We park in the large parking lot just outside the village and start our climb, which brings us to a pass from where we can admire this beautiful red-sand beach framed by beautiful cliffs plunging into the sea. The weather is magnificent, and at this early hour, there aren’t many people yet. We swim in the free part located near the cliff on the right when arriving at the beach. The sea is like glass, warm, and without a single ripple—a real treat! After half an hour, we turn back, and now there are many people rushing on this path, not at all made for feet in sandals or flip-flops, yet many vacationers venture out like this! Matala lives up to its image—a trendy place, full of shops, bars, and restaurants. You could be in any seaside resort with a standard global urbanism, lacking particular charm. Back home. In the late afternoon, a walk through the olive groves surrounding Kamilari, then dinner at Evangelina’s, who runs the Minoan Parassies taverna in the middle of the olive groves. Evangelina is quite a character: we came to reserve a table for 8 p.m. when it was only 7 p.m., but since we lingered near her restaurant, she prepares a table for us and urges us to sit down! And there she takes our order, and a little later, the meze arrive, followed by the main dishes. We finish this good dinner with several generous glasses of raki, accompanied by Evangelina’s encouragements, repeating “poya poya bravo bravo” in a loop. We’re in great shape too, by the way! We return in the middle of the night, on foot, fortunately, with the path vaguely lit by our phones...
Thursday, 26/09: This morning, we discover a new beach, Kommos Beach, not far from Kamilari either. It’s a long sandy beach, a small part of which is dedicated to paid umbrellas and sunbeds, and the rest is free. We spot a tamarisk tree to take shelter from the still-hot sun, and once again, we enjoy clear, warm water. The few swimmers spread out easily over nearly 500 meters of beach. In the late afternoon, Pat and I go to admire the sunset from the hill near our lodging. The hill, covered with olive trees, is threatened by a planned housing development of large cubic villas—trends dictate. Concrete never stops...
Friday, 27/09: We thought about leaving the car at the Odiyitria Monastery, the end of the paved road, but since the track descending to the cave remains drivable, we park 3 km further at the junction of the track leading to Kali Limenes Beach. We still have to walk for half an hour on a less drivable track, and then we’re at the entrance of the Farango Gorge. It’s a beautiful, easy hike since we follow the dry pebble riverbed. Before arriving at the beach, there’s a very beautiful small chapel sheltered under a large cliff, beautifully lit at this early hour.
Agio Farango Chapel
A few climbers are scaling the cliff, and about ten swimmers are enjoying the sea. Return to the car under the hot sun. In the late afternoon, we all return to visit the interesting Odiyitria Monastery. Last swim at Kommos Beach and an excellent dinner at the Sigelakis taverna in Sivas.
Saturday, 28/09: There’s an end-of-vacation atmosphere... We pack our bags and head north. A short stop to see the village of Vorri, and a little over an hour later, we arrive in the big city of Heraklion. Since it’s too early to check into the apartment, we park in the city center to visit the famous archaeological museum. It’s indeed a must-see highlight of our stay in Crete. All four of us are amazed by the quantity and quality of the objects presented from the Minoan civilization. After more than 2 hours, we come out without having seen everything, but we’re a bit overwhelmed by all these wonders. Lunch at a nice little taverna very close to the Titus Church. We go to take possession of our apartment—the same as on the way there, still just as satisfying. In the late afternoon, I go alone for a walk in the historic district of the city, passing by the Morosini Fountain, which is bustling with people—some seated at café terraces, others standing and chatting. There’s a lively atmosphere here. A little further on are the Venetian loggia and the Agios Titos Church. I walk down to the old Venetian port to stroll along the jetty and admire the fortifications under beautiful late-afternoon lighting, then return to the apartment. Dinner near our place at Kiriakis, a “chic” restaurant but with very reasonable prices and excellent cuisine.
Sunday, 29/09: Wake-up at 3:30 a.m., quick coffee, and drive to the nearby airport. We leave the car in the parking lot. Already a lot of people at this early hour. Since we don’t have checked luggage, we go straight to security, which goes fairly quickly, then it’s waiting time and takeoff on time in an Airbus A321 for a 45-minute flight to Athens. We take off again in another Airbus A321 with a 50-minute delay to arrive in Zurich at 11:10 a.m. local time. Then we have to take the train to Basel and then the one to Colmar. With fewer Sunday services, we won’t arrive in Colmar until around 4 p.m.
Conclusion All four of us returned very satisfied with this stay in Crete for several reasons: - We found superb beaches with clear, warm water and often very few vacationers. - The few hikes we did were magnificent, especially those where the trails went through gorges leading to deserted beaches. - We greatly appreciated Cretan gastronomy—there were so few disappointments that we can count them on one hand. - All the accommodations we booked turned out to be superb, with the icing on the cake being the very friendly welcome from our hosts. - Generally, contacts with Cretans were always very warm despite the language barrier—we speak a little Greek. - We also appreciated the diversity of landscapes in this eastern part of Crete, with plateaus and mountains with splendid rugged reliefs.
Note: The photo album is available by clicking on this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/hfdjQndA5eXkL5k7 Captions are only visible per photo by clicking on the circled “i” in the top right. Budget: approximately 3,300 € per couple for 21 days, including train and flights Budget details per couple: - Flight Zurich-Heraklion: 440 € - Trains Colmar-Basel-Zurich round trip for 4: 442.40 € (221 € per couple) - Accommodation: 2,431 € / 21 = 115.80 € per night for 4 (1,216 € per couple) - Car rental for 21 days: 684 € + 145 € fuel (1,150 km) (414 € per couple) - Restaurants, food, etc.: 1,009 €
Our 21-day itinerarySunday, 08/09: Once again—and this is the eighth time—we’re setting off, the four of us: Patrick, Michelle, Jacques, and Monique, for the Greek islands. This time, we’ve chosen Crete. No need to wake up at 3 or 4 a.m. to reach Basel-Mulhouse Airport at dawn to catch the first flight to Greece at 6 a.m.! Given the prohibitive prices charged by EasyJet, we found flights that were half the price from Zurich Airport, which is accessible in 3 hours by train from Colmar. Pierre-Paul drives all four of us to Colmar train station, where we take the train to Basel and then, 20 minutes later, the direct train to Zurich Airport. After wandering around the airport, we go for a coffee at 6 € each! We’re in Switzerland, after all. The other dining areas all have vending machines for selecting and paying for meals—soon, there won’t be anyone left to serve you! After a short wait, we take off at 7:45 p.m. (20 minutes late) in an Aegean Airbus A321. Free in-flight meal service isn’t bad either! We land in Heraklion around 11:15 p.m. We pick up our rental car (a red Seat Ibiza) at the airport and head straight to our apartment, located 2 km from the city center. Thanks to the GPS, we find it quickly. It’s a beautiful, fully renovated apartment with all the comforts and well-equipped. On the table, there’s wine, bottles of water, jam, coffee, etc. Given the late hour, we won’t stay up long.
Monday, 09/09: To enhance our breakfast, Michelle and Monique set off to find a bakery nearby. They return with croissants and donuts—yum... Then we head to the west coast. The highway follows the coastline, but we prefer taking the old road to Malia, our first stop. We visit the major archaeological site of this Minoan city under the hot sun. The site covers a vast area, but the ruins aren’t very evocative except for a few beautiful amphorae scattered around. The explanations in a small house at the entrance are interesting and help us better understand the organization of the ancient city with its different districts. From there, we head toward the nearby mountains to see the thousand-year-old plane tree in the village of Krasi. We take the opportunity to enjoy an excellent lunch of moussaka and delicious gemista at the Krassopsychia taverna in the village center. Pleasant surprise: the prices are still reasonable, with a bill of 70 € for four, including wine and water. The friendly tradition of complimentary dessert and glasses of raki continues—great! We’ve set the bar high right away! Let’s hope the rest lives up to it! On the way back toward the Lassithi Plateau, we stop at the Kardiotisa Monastery perched high on the mountain to enjoy a magnificent view of the entire region. Just a little further, we arrive at the Lassithi Plateau: the presence of small windmills used to pump water from the ground is the typical feature of this plateau. We complete a full loop around the plateau, passing by numerous orchards and vegetable gardens that occupy the entire space. At the end of the plateau, we once again cross mountain passes via winding roads that bring us near Agios Nikolaos. Our apartment is located about ten kilometers further south in Amoudhara. The owner, who was notified, waits for us and shows us her superb apartment, whose large terrace overlooks the entire Mirabello Bay. She then gives us valuable information about the different beaches in the area. Dinner will be frugal, given our hearty lunch in Krasi!
Sunset over Mirabello BayTuesday, 10/09: A bit of a gray sky when we wake up around 8 a.m., but the sun will soon triumph over the scattered clouds. For our first swim, we opt for Voulisma Beach, even though our host warned us it was a bit “crowdy.” That’s understandable given the beautiful emerald color of the sea and the lovely curve of the beach. To avoid the big crowds, we move toward the eastern part of the beach, accessible via a steep staircase. The water is very warm, and this first dip is very pleasant. Before returning to the apartment, we stop at the bakery to buy spinach pies, essential ingredients to accompany our Greek salad for lunch. Of course, everything will be washed down with ouzo, which will remain our favorite drink for the next three weeks—but in moderation!!! A nap is in order after all that effort. In the late afternoon, we drive to Agios Nikolaos, the main seaside resort in Crete. We’re not too enthusiastic about visiting this mass-tourism resort, but the center of Agios, concentrated around the small inner harbor, is pleasant to see despite the plethora of shops and restaurants. We dine a little outside the harbor in the shaded courtyard of the Avli taverna: the oven-baked lamb, squid with spinach, and cuttlefish ink orzo pasta are all highly appreciated. We still stay under a 75 € bill for four.
Mirabello Bay seen from our terraceWednesday, 11/09: At 8 a.m., the terrace is already bathed in sunlight, and it’s already quite hot. The small parasol barely gives us enough shade, but we’re not complaining! For our second swim, we head to a tiny beach recommended by our host, just 3 minutes by car from our place. The path leading to it is very discreet, and we don’t find it right away! It’s a small sandy cove with a few welcome tamarisk trees for shade. When we arrive, there are two swimmers, and there won’t be more than five or six in the morning. After lunch and a nap, we head to the beautiful village of Kritsa, just a few kilometers away. It’s too late to visit the beautiful church of Kera Panagia, which is already closed. We settle for the exterior, which is worth a look. The weather is clouding over, and big clouds are gathering. Upon arriving in Kritsa, a heavy shower forces us to take shelter in the Platanos taverna in the village center, and since it’s nearly 7 p.m., we decide to stay and dine there. Good choice—excellent meze: croquettes and stuffed zucchini flowers, gigantes beans, grilled tomatoes and feta, and pancetta as the main dish. The rain stops just as we decide to head back.
Village of KritsaThursday, 12/09: Our terrace faces east, so we get to watch the sunrise around 7 a.m.—it’s truly a beautiful sight we never tire of. Around 9 a.m., we head to the village of Plaka, where boats depart for the island of Spinalonga, located north of Agios Nikolaos. We board the first boat, which sets sail at 10 a.m., and we’re not alone—the boat is practically full. After 10 minutes, we land on the island at the same time as several other boats from Elounda or Agios. Needless to say, there are already quite a few people walking through the streets of the leper village. The visit remains interesting and moving as we read the explanatory panels recounting the island’s history under Byzantine and then Turkish rule, followed by its transformation into a leper colony. As soon as we climb toward the top of the island via more or less maintained paths, there’s almost no one left. The 360° view from up there is stunning.
Spinalonga Island
The heat is now unbearable, and we can’t wait to get back home to have lunch on our terrace and rest. In the late afternoon, we go grocery shopping at the AB supermarket at the entrance of Agios. We had spotted another nice restaurant in our guide, but unfortunately, there’s a different one at the indicated location that doesn’t inspire us. So, we return to the Avli taverna for another dinner just as good as the first.
Friday, 13/09: We repeat yesterday’s successful program: a swim in our little cove, lunch on the terrace, a nap, and then, in the late afternoon, we discover another nearby village, Kroustas, nestled in the olive groves near Kritsa. Much less touristy than Kritsa, it’s mostly inhabited by locals, especially the elderly who are enjoying the cool air on their chairs—if you can call it cool given the still-high temperatures in the late afternoon! We then return to visit Kritsa, which we hadn’t been able to explore due to the rain. Dinner at a taverna in the village center at a very reasonable price.
Saturday, 14/09: Today, we move to our new base further east. We start with a high viewpoint at the Faneromeni Monastery, which overlooks Mirabello Bay. The monastery itself is of little interest as it’s under renovation with excessive concrete work. We continue to the village of Kavoussi to see another exceptional tree after a few kilometers on a dusty, bumpy track. It’s an olive tree said to be about 3,200 years old—impressive, and the countryside is very beautiful. It’s time to find a place for lunch. We find one in the charming little port of Mohlos, where a few tavernas surround a very nice small beach. Our choice falls on the Bogazzi taverna, where we enjoy fried fish. To reach our new base in Zakros, we still have to drive through the mountains before reaching Sitia, Paleokastro, and finally Zakros. The region is beautiful, with olive groves and rows of wind turbines taking advantage of the strong wind near the northern tip of the island. In Zakros, we’re greeted by our very friendly host. Here too, we have all the comforts and a beautiful terrace overlooking the village. The apartment has reversible air conditioners, but the overly simple instructions leave us puzzled. Thinking we’ve set it correctly, we realize a little too late that it’s blowing hot air over 30°C! After numerous attempts and testing several confusing programs, we finally succeed! Dinner on our new terrace.
Sunday, 15/09: This morning, we get up early to hike in the “Gorge of the Dead” while it’s still cool. The sky is blue as usual! We park in the nearest parking lot and start our descent via a beautiful path winding through the olive groves. A little further on, the landscape opens up, and the path, now a stony trail, begins the descent to the dry riverbed. On either side of the riverbed rise beautiful reddish cliffs.
Gorge of the Dead
The trail winds its way through this narrow gorge with difficulty. It was in the many caves visible halfway up the slope that the Minoans buried their dead, hence the name “Gorge of the Dead.” The gorge opens onto a beautiful small pebble beach. A swim is welcome after this hike that made us sweat. The hike took us 1 hour and 25 minutes, and a little less on the way back. Meanwhile, Monique did some shopping and prepared an excellent lunch. In the late afternoon, we go down to dine at Platanakis, a taverna in the small village of Kato Zakros.
Monday, 16/09: This morning, we explore the northern part of the east coast near Palekastro. We start with a dip at the beautiful Hionia Beach near Palekastro. The water is still just as nice, but a light breeze is blowing—not enough to spoil our fun! Seeing all the wind turbines lining the ridges, it’s no surprise.
Grocery shopping in Palekastro and return to Zakros. A little rain in the late afternoon and an excellent dinner at Iannis Mitsakakis’ Taverna in Adravastis. These are the kind of small tavernas we love—unpretentious, a few tables on a terrace, a warm welcome, a short menu guaranteeing freshness, tasty dishes prepared by the server’s mom, and a light bill. What more could you ask for!Tuesday, 17/09: We head back toward Palekastro to do some shopping, but it’s also the road to the Toplou Monastery. There, we see a collection of magnificent icons dating from the 15th to the 20th century. We can also admire drawings of Orthodox religious architecture. We continue toward the Mavros Akrotiri headland to enjoy the view of the sea and rocky capes. On the way back to our place, we make a small detour to see the famous Vai palm grove. Meh... As for Vai Beach, it’s filled with paid umbrellas and sunbeds, and there are so many people that we flee. Plus, having to pay for parking is another reason to snub this trendy beach. We prefer our Hionia Beach, which we already appreciated the other day. In the late afternoon, Pat and I start the trail that begins at Kato Zakros Beach heading south. The poorly marked path crosses a plateau of sharp limestone. The paint and cairn markings are no longer very visible, and with dusk approaching, we turn back toward Kato Zakros. Dinner at the Platanakis taverna—less good than last time.
Wednesday, 18/09: To avoid the scorching sun, Pat, Mimi, and I get up earlier than usual to hike the Hohlakies Gorge. At this early hour, the sky is quite cloudy, and it’s drizzling. When we arrive in the village of Hohlakies, we park in front of a small chapel, the start of the hike. The sky is now completely clear. The trail starts among the olive groves, then after passing through a gate, we descend into the gorge filled with large rocks. We’re alone in the world, and the landscape is magnificent. A few wild goats clinging to the cliff watch us from above. After 1 hour and 15 minutes, we emerge onto the wonderful Karoumès Beach. A pleasant swim, then back to civilization! A walk in the late afternoon in Zakros to discover the beautiful springs route. Dinner in Adravastis.
Thursday, 19/09: Another move: Before heading to our next stop, we make a detour to see the beautiful Keratokampos Beach and can’t resist a swim in the still-warm, clear water. We continue our journey via Ziros, then reach the south coast and have lunch at the Stephi taverna in Ferma—excellent meal! The south coast is quite urbanized and has much less charm than the east coast we’ve just left! The numerous plastic greenhouses are partly to blame. We stop for groceries in Ierapetra. Around 3 p.m., we arrive at our destination in the small perched village of Anatoli. Our lodging is at the top of the village, and from the path leading to it, we have a magnificent view of the coastal plain, unfortunately overloaded with plastic greenhouses. It reminds us of the landscapes of El Ejido in Andalusia.
View of the Ierapetra coast from AnatoliFriday, 20/09: A walk and discovery of the hamlet of Anatoli. There are few services—a tiny grocery store, a taverna, and that’s it. Fortunately, the traveling baker arrives and honks. We take the opportunity to buy fresh bread. Leaving the village, we take a path that should lead us to the hamlet of Drygies. The landscape is beautiful. We walk through a lovely pine forest before arriving at the hamlet. The path continues to a taverna that’s closed today, with a superb terrace overlooking the coast. Luckily, the owner arrives and informs us that the taverna will be open next Sunday and that we can enjoy barbecued meat. Noted! We head back to Anatoli via the small paved road with, fortunately, very limited traffic. Lunch on our terrace, then a dip in our private pool! The water is noticeably cooler than at the beach. Dinner at the village taverna: there’s only one menu—meze starters, souvlaki, water, wine, and bread—all for 35 €! We think we’re dreaming—was there a mistake? No.
Saturday, 21/09: We discover the beach of the village of Myrtos, a small seaside resort that’s quite touristy but on a human scale. We swim in the western part of the beach, and once again, we’re alone in the water. The best part: warm water and tamarisk trees for welcome shade. There’s even a shower to rinse off! In the late afternoon, Pat and I decide to go for a hike in the Selakano pine forest. To get there, we take a narrow, winding, and poorly paved road after the village of Christos. Plus, at this altitude, we encounter clouds clinging to the mountain, so it’s drizzling, and visibility is reduced. We decide to turn back and return to Anatoli. As compensation, we take the path that passes in front of the lodging and leads us to the Timios Stavros chapel, which crowns the summit of the nearby mountain. We arrive at the summit just in time for the sunset at 7 p.m. Breathtaking 360° panorama and magnificent colors!
Sunset from AnatoliSunday, 22/09: This morning, Pat, Mimi, and I go for a hike in the Sarakina Gorge, located about 12 km from Anatoli via a beautiful road winding through irrigated olive groves. We park in the small parking lot before the trail. At the start, the path follows a levada (small irrigation canal) and quickly enters a very narrow gorge flanked by high cliffs. The riverbed is cluttered with huge rocks blocking the passage. No matter—in the technical sections, ropes or ladders allow us to overcome these obstacles with a bit of skill. You can imagine how quickly the riverbed must rise during a storm, given the narrowness of the gorge!
We progress slowly through this magnificent and impressive rocky chaos. At the exit of the gorge, we take another return path that partly follows the paved road. Back in Anatoli, we go to lunch at the Drygies taverna. We sit at the edge of the terrace under a huge tree that covers almost the entire terrace and order grilled lamb dishes prepared according to the ancient “antikristo” method.
Monday, 23/09: Departure for our last stop before Heraklion. We thought about swimming at Tertsa Beach, but it turns out to be less pleasant than expected, with pebbles and an uneven rocky plateau. So, we return to Myrtos Beach, which we know well and suits us perfectly. We head west, leaving the coast a bit. Around 3:30 p.m., we arrive at our destination in the village of Kamilari, near the famous Matala spot. We’ve rented a beautiful, modern, well-equipped apartment with a lovely shaded terrace. The owner is very friendly and explains everything necessary for a good stay. We explore the quite touristy village with its few tavernas, all full of tourists, mostly Germans.
Tuesday, 24/09: Visit to the village of Sivas, well restored thanks to the Germans, who have invested a lot here. We take the opportunity to scout out “friendly” tavernas, then go for a swim at Kalamaki Beach. Apart from a small sandy access, you have to enter the water via a chaotic limestone plateau—proof of this is that Monique trips slightly when entering the water. A group of very unfriendly German women blocks the sandy passage and doesn’t hesitate to push swimmers they deem too close. Back home, lunch, and a nap. In the late afternoon, we drive to visit the nearby Phaistos site. We benefit from very beautiful lighting. From the elevated site, we overlook the Messara Plain with a beautiful view of the olive grove checkerboards highlighted by the late afternoon sun. The site itself is quite vast, but to appreciate it, it’s better to read the explanatory panels placed throughout the different quarters. At this hour, the site is almost empty, and the beautiful light adds charm to the visit.
Wednesday, 25/09: Departure for the village of Matala, which doesn’t interest us in itself, having been there during the “hippie” era in 1976. However, going to Red Beach, only accessible by taking a path overlooking this area, appeals to us much more. We park in the large parking lot just outside the village and start our climb, which brings us to a pass from where we can admire this beautiful red-sand beach framed by beautiful cliffs plunging into the sea. The weather is magnificent, and at this early hour, there aren’t many people yet. We swim in the free part located near the cliff on the right when arriving at the beach. The sea is like glass, warm, and without a single ripple—a real treat! After half an hour, we turn back, and now there are many people rushing on this path, not at all made for feet in sandals or flip-flops, yet many vacationers venture out like this! Matala lives up to its image—a trendy place, full of shops, bars, and restaurants. You could be in any seaside resort with a standard global urbanism, lacking particular charm. Back home. In the late afternoon, a walk through the olive groves surrounding Kamilari, then dinner at Evangelina’s, who runs the Minoan Parassies taverna in the middle of the olive groves. Evangelina is quite a character: we came to reserve a table for 8 p.m. when it was only 7 p.m., but since we lingered near her restaurant, she prepares a table for us and urges us to sit down! And there she takes our order, and a little later, the meze arrive, followed by the main dishes. We finish this good dinner with several generous glasses of raki, accompanied by Evangelina’s encouragements, repeating “poya poya bravo bravo” in a loop. We’re in great shape too, by the way! We return in the middle of the night, on foot, fortunately, with the path vaguely lit by our phones...
Thursday, 26/09: This morning, we discover a new beach, Kommos Beach, not far from Kamilari either. It’s a long sandy beach, a small part of which is dedicated to paid umbrellas and sunbeds, and the rest is free. We spot a tamarisk tree to take shelter from the still-hot sun, and once again, we enjoy clear, warm water. The few swimmers spread out easily over nearly 500 meters of beach. In the late afternoon, Pat and I go to admire the sunset from the hill near our lodging. The hill, covered with olive trees, is threatened by a planned housing development of large cubic villas—trends dictate. Concrete never stops...
Friday, 27/09: We thought about leaving the car at the Odiyitria Monastery, the end of the paved road, but since the track descending to the cave remains drivable, we park 3 km further at the junction of the track leading to Kali Limenes Beach. We still have to walk for half an hour on a less drivable track, and then we’re at the entrance of the Farango Gorge. It’s a beautiful, easy hike since we follow the dry pebble riverbed. Before arriving at the beach, there’s a very beautiful small chapel sheltered under a large cliff, beautifully lit at this early hour.
Agio Farango Chapel
A few climbers are scaling the cliff, and about ten swimmers are enjoying the sea. Return to the car under the hot sun. In the late afternoon, we all return to visit the interesting Odiyitria Monastery. Last swim at Kommos Beach and an excellent dinner at the Sigelakis taverna in Sivas.
Saturday, 28/09: There’s an end-of-vacation atmosphere... We pack our bags and head north. A short stop to see the village of Vorri, and a little over an hour later, we arrive in the big city of Heraklion. Since it’s too early to check into the apartment, we park in the city center to visit the famous archaeological museum. It’s indeed a must-see highlight of our stay in Crete. All four of us are amazed by the quantity and quality of the objects presented from the Minoan civilization. After more than 2 hours, we come out without having seen everything, but we’re a bit overwhelmed by all these wonders. Lunch at a nice little taverna very close to the Titus Church. We go to take possession of our apartment—the same as on the way there, still just as satisfying. In the late afternoon, I go alone for a walk in the historic district of the city, passing by the Morosini Fountain, which is bustling with people—some seated at café terraces, others standing and chatting. There’s a lively atmosphere here. A little further on are the Venetian loggia and the Agios Titos Church. I walk down to the old Venetian port to stroll along the jetty and admire the fortifications under beautiful late-afternoon lighting, then return to the apartment. Dinner near our place at Kiriakis, a “chic” restaurant but with very reasonable prices and excellent cuisine.
Sunday, 29/09: Wake-up at 3:30 a.m., quick coffee, and drive to the nearby airport. We leave the car in the parking lot. Already a lot of people at this early hour. Since we don’t have checked luggage, we go straight to security, which goes fairly quickly, then it’s waiting time and takeoff on time in an Airbus A321 for a 45-minute flight to Athens. We take off again in another Airbus A321 with a 50-minute delay to arrive in Zurich at 11:10 a.m. local time. Then we have to take the train to Basel and then the one to Colmar. With fewer Sunday services, we won’t arrive in Colmar until around 4 p.m.
Conclusion All four of us returned very satisfied with this stay in Crete for several reasons: - We found superb beaches with clear, warm water and often very few vacationers. - The few hikes we did were magnificent, especially those where the trails went through gorges leading to deserted beaches. - We greatly appreciated Cretan gastronomy—there were so few disappointments that we can count them on one hand. - All the accommodations we booked turned out to be superb, with the icing on the cake being the very friendly welcome from our hosts. - Generally, contacts with Cretans were always very warm despite the language barrier—we speak a little Greek. - We also appreciated the diversity of landscapes in this eastern part of Crete, with plateaus and mountains with splendid rugged reliefs.
Note: The photo album is available by clicking on this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/hfdjQndA5eXkL5k7 Captions are only visible per photo by clicking on the circled “i” in the top right. Budget: approximately 3,300 € per couple for 21 days, including train and flights Budget details per couple: - Flight Zurich-Heraklion: 440 € - Trains Colmar-Basel-Zurich round trip for 4: 442.40 € (221 € per couple) - Accommodation: 2,431 € / 21 = 115.80 € per night for 4 (1,216 € per couple) - Car rental for 21 days: 684 € + 145 € fuel (1,150 km) (414 € per couple) - Restaurants, food, etc.: 1,009 €
Hi there,
We want to go to Greece in May. I have no idea how to plan our 10-day trip. Athens is a must, but after that, I'm lost. We're looking for unusual spots that aren't necessarily touristy but still want to hit the must-see places. We're skipping Santorini given the current events.
Thanks so much in advance for your help—it was already super useful for New York!
Hi there,
The least we can say is that neither the internet nor guidebooks are overflowing with info on Thrace, this region in the far northeast of Greece (part of which is also in Bulgaria and Turkey). Needless to say, if anyone’s already visited this "eastern" Greece, I’d love to hear ANY tips about it. I’m planning to spend 4 or 5 days there next May, with a rental car. The distances seem pretty big, and I don’t want to rack up too many kilometers at the risk of being a bit disappointed—especially, what do you think of the Evros Valley, near the Turkish border?
Thanks in advance.
Hi there,
I’d like to visit several islands in the Cyclades in late June - early July 2026 for about 15 days.
Stay 3 to 4 days on each one and do some hiking.
Your suggestions are welcome—islands, accommodation, hikes, or anything else.
Thanks in advance.
Twizzle
Hello,
We’re planning to spend a week in Crete soon. We’ve read that renting a car is a must. We’ll be landing in Heraklion.
We’re used to traveling modestly, hiking, and wandering around in rather bucolic spots.
We’d love to hear any tips or experiences that might match our travel style.
Thanks in advance!
Françoise and Jean-Pierre
Hi everyone,
I’m planning my first trip to Greece from October 29th to November 23rd and I’d love to hear your thoughts and suggestions on the itinerary I’m considering. For a first visit, I’ll definitely cover the traditional tourist route, but I’m also open to off-the-beaten-path ideas. I’m curious and interested in history, archaeological sites, and the islands—more for culture than beaches, anyway, especially in November!
Here’s the plan: 3–4 days in Athens, 2 days in Nafplio: visiting Epidaurus and Mycenae, Stop in Olympia on the way to Delphi via Patras by bus? To avoid backtracking to Athens; 2 days in Delphi, including the site and Mount Parnassus, Explore the Ionian coast and a few islands? A few days in Corfu, 3 days in Meteora, 2–3 days in Thessaloniki, Direct flight from Thessaloniki to Heraklion, Crete, 3–4 days in Crete, November 22nd–23rd: overnight ferry back to Athens to catch my return flight to Montreal.
You’ve probably guessed I’m traveling solo. It might seem a bit scattered right now—I’ve started reading up on Greece, and there are must-see spots. What feels unclear are the 4–5 days between Delphi and Corfu. Also, mid-November in the islands might not be ideal if the weather’s bad.
Is Corfu worth it? Maybe there are other options—like a few days in Albania? Just throwing the idea out there.
Thanks for your input! I’d love to hear about your experiences to help enrich my upcoming trip.
Here’s the plan: 3–4 days in Athens, 2 days in Nafplio: visiting Epidaurus and Mycenae, Stop in Olympia on the way to Delphi via Patras by bus? To avoid backtracking to Athens; 2 days in Delphi, including the site and Mount Parnassus, Explore the Ionian coast and a few islands? A few days in Corfu, 3 days in Meteora, 2–3 days in Thessaloniki, Direct flight from Thessaloniki to Heraklion, Crete, 3–4 days in Crete, November 22nd–23rd: overnight ferry back to Athens to catch my return flight to Montreal.
You’ve probably guessed I’m traveling solo. It might seem a bit scattered right now—I’ve started reading up on Greece, and there are must-see spots. What feels unclear are the 4–5 days between Delphi and Corfu. Also, mid-November in the islands might not be ideal if the weather’s bad.
Is Corfu worth it? Maybe there are other options—like a few days in Albania? Just throwing the idea out there.
Thanks for your input! I’d love to hear about your experiences to help enrich my upcoming trip.
The Cyclades attract a lot (a LOT) of people in the summer, and it's not always clear how to visit them.
For our first family trip to the Cyclades (in 2016), we took a route that seems great for discovering the islands: - Flight Paris / Santorini (Transavia) - 3 nights in Santorini - Ferry Santorini / Milos - 4 nights in Milos - Ferry Milos / Sifnos - 4 nights in Sifnos - Ferry Sifnos / Athens - 3 nights in Athens - Flight Athens / Paris
Santorini is the postcard image of the Cyclades... but not really any beaches for kids. My tip: you should stay in Oia because it's really "the spot" on the island. We chose the Pension "The Flower": simple but very well located and with a pool for the kids. Another tip: rent a car as soon as you arrive at the airport because the island is vast.
Our favorite moment: Oia around 6:00 AM, a paradise for photographers. It’s nothing like the daytime, or especially the evening when all the crowds rush in for the famous "sunset." Another favorite, the hike between Fira and Oia, 10 km, 4 hours of walking with extraordinary views (especially around Imerovigli). For the rest, we toured the island—it’s nice but nothing to marvel at.
After a 2.5-hour ferry ride, we arrived in Milos, home of the famous Venus de Milo. This is our favorite island in the Cyclades (though we haven’t seen them all!). In the port of Adamantas, we stayed at the Liogerma Hotel (very well located near the port).
Our favorite experience: the boat tour around the island (and swimming at Kleftiko). Absolutely a must-do, but book it as soon as you arrive because it’s often fully booked for the next two days.
I also recommend renting a car to explore this island. Other favorites: the incredible fishing village of Klima with its colorful boat houses, the rocks of Sarakiniko (best in the morning sun), the beach at Tsigrado (with its ladder access through the rocks), Plaka, the caves of Papafragas, the waters of Firopotamos, and Fyriplaka...
Just a 1-hour ferry ride, and you’re already in Sifnos. A small island with a bus network that means you don’t need to rent a vehicle. We stayed in Kamares (Hotel Afroditi).
Sifnos has charming villages typical of the Cyclades (Kastro, Apollonia), beautiful chapels (Chrisopigi, the Church of the Seven Martyrs...), and lovely beaches (Cherronissos, Platis Galios...). Our favorite: hiking around Faros and the Chrisopigi Monastery.
A 3-hour ferry ride takes you back to the port of Piraeus to visit Athens: the Acropolis, its museums, and the Plaka district. A little favorite of ours: the Archaeological Museum, slightly off the tourist trail... With this route, you’ll see the diversity of the Cyclades and Athens without wasting too much time on ferries.
PS: We also did the loop Mykonos / Paros / Amorgos / Mykonos, but that’s a good idea... for a second trip ;)
For our first family trip to the Cyclades (in 2016), we took a route that seems great for discovering the islands: - Flight Paris / Santorini (Transavia) - 3 nights in Santorini - Ferry Santorini / Milos - 4 nights in Milos - Ferry Milos / Sifnos - 4 nights in Sifnos - Ferry Sifnos / Athens - 3 nights in Athens - Flight Athens / Paris
Santorini is the postcard image of the Cyclades... but not really any beaches for kids. My tip: you should stay in Oia because it's really "the spot" on the island. We chose the Pension "The Flower": simple but very well located and with a pool for the kids. Another tip: rent a car as soon as you arrive at the airport because the island is vast.
Our favorite moment: Oia around 6:00 AM, a paradise for photographers. It’s nothing like the daytime, or especially the evening when all the crowds rush in for the famous "sunset." Another favorite, the hike between Fira and Oia, 10 km, 4 hours of walking with extraordinary views (especially around Imerovigli). For the rest, we toured the island—it’s nice but nothing to marvel at.
After a 2.5-hour ferry ride, we arrived in Milos, home of the famous Venus de Milo. This is our favorite island in the Cyclades (though we haven’t seen them all!). In the port of Adamantas, we stayed at the Liogerma Hotel (very well located near the port).
Our favorite experience: the boat tour around the island (and swimming at Kleftiko). Absolutely a must-do, but book it as soon as you arrive because it’s often fully booked for the next two days.
I also recommend renting a car to explore this island. Other favorites: the incredible fishing village of Klima with its colorful boat houses, the rocks of Sarakiniko (best in the morning sun), the beach at Tsigrado (with its ladder access through the rocks), Plaka, the caves of Papafragas, the waters of Firopotamos, and Fyriplaka...
Just a 1-hour ferry ride, and you’re already in Sifnos. A small island with a bus network that means you don’t need to rent a vehicle. We stayed in Kamares (Hotel Afroditi).
Sifnos has charming villages typical of the Cyclades (Kastro, Apollonia), beautiful chapels (Chrisopigi, the Church of the Seven Martyrs...), and lovely beaches (Cherronissos, Platis Galios...). Our favorite: hiking around Faros and the Chrisopigi Monastery.
A 3-hour ferry ride takes you back to the port of Piraeus to visit Athens: the Acropolis, its museums, and the Plaka district. A little favorite of ours: the Archaeological Museum, slightly off the tourist trail... With this route, you’ll see the diversity of the Cyclades and Athens without wasting too much time on ferries.
PS: We also did the loop Mykonos / Paros / Amorgos / Mykonos, but that’s a good idea... for a second trip ;)
Hello everyone,
So happy to be back on this Forum!
We’re heading off on another cruise—our 7th—after a 5-year break...
We’ll be leaving from Venice on April 26th with stops in Kotor, Mykonos, Santorini, and Ancona.
Could you help me plan the stops by sharing tips, tricks, and advice?
For those who already know me, you know we prefer not to take the cruise line’s excursions but instead organize everything ourselves.
Thanks in advance to everyone, and looking forward to chatting with you all!
Hi there,
I’m planning a trip to Greece next February, flying in and out of Athens. The itinerary isn’t set yet (but it’s my first time, so I’ll hit the *must-sees*), but one thing’s for sure—we’re renting a car.
Any rental companies you’d recommend? Local agencies are usually cheaper than the big names (Avis, Europcar, etc.), but you’ve got to know which ones are reliable...
Thanks in advance for your tips! ;)
I’m planning a trip to Greece next February, flying in and out of Athens. The itinerary isn’t set yet (but it’s my first time, so I’ll hit the *must-sees*), but one thing’s for sure—we’re renting a car.
Any rental companies you’d recommend? Local agencies are usually cheaper than the big names (Avis, Europcar, etc.), but you’ve got to know which ones are reliable...
Thanks in advance for your tips! ;)
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a family road trip in the Peloponnese in April, arriving and departing from Athens, with a focus on Greek mythology, beautiful hikes, and a balanced pace (we don’t want to spend our days in the car). Here’s our draft itinerary:
Day 1: Early arrival in Athens – visit Acrocorinth and overnight in Corinth
Days 2 & 3: Drive to Dimitsana – hike in the Lousios Gorge (and maybe a detour to Olympia?), mountain villages
Days 4 & 5: Drive to Areopoli (Mani Peninsula) with a stop in Mystras
Day 6: Kalamata, visit Ancient Messene
Days 7 & 8: Pylos, Voidokilia Beach, Palace of Nestor, Gialova Lagoon
Days 9 & 10: Drive to Nafplio (Epidaurus, Mycenae)
Days 11 & 12: Hydra from the port of Ermioni
Days 12–15: Athens I’d love to hear your thoughts and suggestions. Does the pace seem reasonable? Should we adjust any stops (too long or too short)? Any must-see mythological sites or hikes along the way, in addition to what I’ve mentioned? Is Olympia really worth the detour from Dimitsana?
Thanks so much for your valuable advice!
I’m planning a family road trip in the Peloponnese in April, arriving and departing from Athens, with a focus on Greek mythology, beautiful hikes, and a balanced pace (we don’t want to spend our days in the car). Here’s our draft itinerary:
Day 1: Early arrival in Athens – visit Acrocorinth and overnight in Corinth
Days 2 & 3: Drive to Dimitsana – hike in the Lousios Gorge (and maybe a detour to Olympia?), mountain villages
Days 4 & 5: Drive to Areopoli (Mani Peninsula) with a stop in Mystras
Day 6: Kalamata, visit Ancient Messene
Days 7 & 8: Pylos, Voidokilia Beach, Palace of Nestor, Gialova Lagoon
Days 9 & 10: Drive to Nafplio (Epidaurus, Mycenae)
Days 11 & 12: Hydra from the port of Ermioni
Days 12–15: Athens I’d love to hear your thoughts and suggestions. Does the pace seem reasonable? Should we adjust any stops (too long or too short)? Any must-see mythological sites or hikes along the way, in addition to what I’ve mentioned? Is Olympia really worth the detour from Dimitsana?
Thanks so much for your valuable advice!
Hi there,
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge. I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle. In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge. I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle. In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone! Is there a bus that connects Santorini Airport to the port on the island? Is it direct, or do you have to change buses at the bus station?
Thanks for your tips on this! 🙂
Hi there,
I’m planning to wrap up my 3 weeks in Greece with 4 nights on Serifos before a final night in Athens.
I’m torn between staying in Faros or near the port in Livadakia... or somewhere else!
I’m looking for an authentic spot with a nice beach nearby but still with little restaurants, shops, etc. Something where my daughters and I can enjoy pleasant evenings with a bit of life around us!
Any advice—or even a place to stay—that won’t break the bank, obviously!
Thanks
Beyond Athens' iconic sites and Santorini's popular beaches, Greece reveals its hidden treasures to those who dare venture off the beaten path. FairMoove travel agency offers eco-responsible stays in Greece for an authentic experience at the heart of Hellenic traditions.
Authentic Peloponnese: A Land of Living Traditions
The Peloponnese peninsula is home to traditional villages where time seems to have stood still. In Dimitsana, perched in the Arcadian mountains, locals keep centuries-old traditions alive in their craft workshops. The cobbled streets echo with the sound of traditional looms, where artisans still create textiles using age-old methods.
In the Mani region, ancient stone towers tell the story of an untamed land. Local families welcome you into their traditional homes to share their culinary art: olive oil preparation, olive bread making, and dolmades crafted according to recipes passed down through generations. The Unknown Islands: Preserved Jewels of the Aegean Sea
Far from Mykonos' hustle and bustle, Ikaria island reveals its longevity secrets. This blue island, known for its inhabitants' exceptional lifespan, invites you to discover a unique way of life. Join the panigiria, traditional festivals where the entire community gathers to dance, sing, and share local dishes prepared in large communal ovens.
On Lemnos island, fishermen introduce you to their traditional sustainable fishing techniques. The ancient salt pans, still in operation, bear witness to ancestral know-how. In family-run tavernas by the harbor, taste thallasomelo, a unique sea honey produced by bees foraging on wild thyme from coastal cliffs. Greek Macedonia: A Living Heritage
In the northern mountains, the villages of Zagoria preserve their characteristic stone architecture. Eighteenth-century arched bridges still span deep gorges, showcasing a unique construction art. Locals invite you to discover medicinal herb gathering and traditional herbal tea preparation, knowledge passed down through generations.
In Nymfaio, a village perched at 1,350 meters altitude, ecotourism initiatives help preserve the natural habitat of brown bears. Traditional stone guesthouses offer an ideal base for exploring the region and observing wildlife in its natural environment. Agritourism and Authentic Rural Life
Traditional farms in Thessaly open their doors to travelers eager to discover sustainable agriculture. Participate in the autumn olive harvest, traditional feta cheese making, or the cultivation of aromatic herbs that flavor Greek cuisine. These experiences not only support the local economy but also help preserve ancestral farming practices.
Traditional Festivals and Local Celebrations
The Greek calendar is marked by authentic celebrations that vary by region. In Pelion, the Goat Carnival transforms villages into living theater stages, where pagan traditions blend with Christian folklore. On Syros, the rebetiko festival lets you discover this UNESCO-listed music in its original context. Sustainable Initiatives and Heritage Preservation
Many Greek communities are committed to sustainable tourism projects. On Thirassia, Santorini's lesser-known neighbor, a traditional troglodyte house rehabilitation project allows visitors to stay in authentic dwellings while contributing to architectural heritage preservation. Supporting Local Communities
Women's cooperatives, particularly active in rural areas, offer traditional craft workshops. In Arnaia, Chalkidiki, learn to weave on traditional looms or prepare preserves using age-old methods. These initiatives help women maintain economic independence while preserving local traditions.
For more responsible tourism, many accommodations adopt eco-friendly practices. Using local products, sustainable water management, and solar energy production are among the initiatives that help preserve places' authenticity while respecting the environment.
Tips for an Authentic Trip
To discover the real Greece, choose off-season stays from October to April. Milder temperatures and fewer crowds allow for more authentic encounters with locals. Opt for small family-run guesthouses and host tables that offer true immersion in local culture.
Greece's regions thus invite you to discover another facet of this millennia-old country, far from tourist clichés. Each village, each island, each mountain holds authentic treasures waiting to be discovered by travelers who respect traditions and the environment.
Authentic Peloponnese: A Land of Living Traditions
The Peloponnese peninsula is home to traditional villages where time seems to have stood still. In Dimitsana, perched in the Arcadian mountains, locals keep centuries-old traditions alive in their craft workshops. The cobbled streets echo with the sound of traditional looms, where artisans still create textiles using age-old methods.
In the Mani region, ancient stone towers tell the story of an untamed land. Local families welcome you into their traditional homes to share their culinary art: olive oil preparation, olive bread making, and dolmades crafted according to recipes passed down through generations. The Unknown Islands: Preserved Jewels of the Aegean Sea
Far from Mykonos' hustle and bustle, Ikaria island reveals its longevity secrets. This blue island, known for its inhabitants' exceptional lifespan, invites you to discover a unique way of life. Join the panigiria, traditional festivals where the entire community gathers to dance, sing, and share local dishes prepared in large communal ovens.
On Lemnos island, fishermen introduce you to their traditional sustainable fishing techniques. The ancient salt pans, still in operation, bear witness to ancestral know-how. In family-run tavernas by the harbor, taste thallasomelo, a unique sea honey produced by bees foraging on wild thyme from coastal cliffs. Greek Macedonia: A Living Heritage
In the northern mountains, the villages of Zagoria preserve their characteristic stone architecture. Eighteenth-century arched bridges still span deep gorges, showcasing a unique construction art. Locals invite you to discover medicinal herb gathering and traditional herbal tea preparation, knowledge passed down through generations.
In Nymfaio, a village perched at 1,350 meters altitude, ecotourism initiatives help preserve the natural habitat of brown bears. Traditional stone guesthouses offer an ideal base for exploring the region and observing wildlife in its natural environment. Agritourism and Authentic Rural Life
Traditional farms in Thessaly open their doors to travelers eager to discover sustainable agriculture. Participate in the autumn olive harvest, traditional feta cheese making, or the cultivation of aromatic herbs that flavor Greek cuisine. These experiences not only support the local economy but also help preserve ancestral farming practices.
Traditional Festivals and Local Celebrations
The Greek calendar is marked by authentic celebrations that vary by region. In Pelion, the Goat Carnival transforms villages into living theater stages, where pagan traditions blend with Christian folklore. On Syros, the rebetiko festival lets you discover this UNESCO-listed music in its original context. Sustainable Initiatives and Heritage Preservation
Many Greek communities are committed to sustainable tourism projects. On Thirassia, Santorini's lesser-known neighbor, a traditional troglodyte house rehabilitation project allows visitors to stay in authentic dwellings while contributing to architectural heritage preservation. Supporting Local Communities
Women's cooperatives, particularly active in rural areas, offer traditional craft workshops. In Arnaia, Chalkidiki, learn to weave on traditional looms or prepare preserves using age-old methods. These initiatives help women maintain economic independence while preserving local traditions.
For more responsible tourism, many accommodations adopt eco-friendly practices. Using local products, sustainable water management, and solar energy production are among the initiatives that help preserve places' authenticity while respecting the environment.
Tips for an Authentic Trip
To discover the real Greece, choose off-season stays from October to April. Milder temperatures and fewer crowds allow for more authentic encounters with locals. Opt for small family-run guesthouses and host tables that offer true immersion in local culture.
Greece's regions thus invite you to discover another facet of this millennia-old country, far from tourist clichés. Each village, each island, each mountain holds authentic treasures waiting to be discovered by travelers who respect traditions and the environment.
Hi
Does anyone know if there’s a direct ferry from Ios to Amorgos in September?
Thanks😄
Does anyone know if there’s a direct ferry from Ios to Amorgos in September?
Thanks😄
Hi there! We’re planning our trip to the Cyclades in July and I’d love to know the best place to book ferries.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
hi
Are there any ferries that take cars from Turkey to the Greek islands—for example, Bodrum to Kos? Could you give me the details? Thanks
Hello fellow VFers,
A long time ago, a great group of young backpackers, mostly from Quebec. We met during a trip to Crete (Greece). More specifically at a youth hostel in Mirthios.
Anyway, we celebrated Christmas. There was a Quebec flag on the wall. We even wrote our names on a sheet with some drawings.
Just for fun, what have you all been up to? Are you VFers?
I was the backpacker on a bike (cycle tourist).
Cheers, 🙂
A long time ago, a great group of young backpackers, mostly from Quebec. We met during a trip to Crete (Greece). More specifically at a youth hostel in Mirthios.
Anyway, we celebrated Christmas. There was a Quebec flag on the wall. We even wrote our names on a sheet with some drawings.
Just for fun, what have you all been up to? Are you VFers?
I was the backpacker on a bike (cycle tourist).
Cheers, 🙂
We’ve only been to Crete in Greece before, so this trip is new to us—but planning the itinerary isn’t easy because we have to make choices. We’d love to hear from those in the know about the following plan:
Day 1: flight to Athens, then flight to Milos
3 days in Milos,
4 days in Sifnos,
3 days in Paros,
Final 3 days in Athens.
Should we book ferry tickets between the islands in March in advance, or can we wait until the last minute?
Same question for accommodations on these different islands.
Finally, on the 3 islands we’ve chosen, is renting a car essential, or are the buses enough?
Thanks for your help!
Hi there.
I’m planning a 4-day trip to Syros at the end of July. Any great tips or recommendations for a place to stay on the island? We’re a family of 4 with two teens (13 and 15).
Thanks!
Tom
I’m planning a 4-day trip to Syros at the end of July. Any great tips or recommendations for a place to stay on the island? We’re a family of 4 with two teens (13 and 15).
Thanks!
Tom
Hi there,
My partner and I are planning to visit Paros from June 4th to 11th, 2025.
I’ve been reading a lot of conflicting things, so I’m a bit confused.
Does Paros feel more like St. Tropez or Porto-Vecchio—overcrowded, too built-up, and has it lost its authentic charm?
Are umbrella and sunbed prices on the beach still reasonable?
Thanks so much for your input—we’re thinking of heading there in early June with my partner.
Hello,
We’ve finally decided on which Cycladic island to visit...
My partner and I are planning our first trip to Greece for June 2025. We’re leaving France for 15 days.
Here’s our itinerary, and I’d love your feedback on whether it’s doable, plus any other suggestions...
Arrival in Athens for 2 nights =
- Visiting the Acropolis, Parthenon, Theatre of Dionysus, Archaeological Museum, Syntagma Square for the changing of the guard, and strolling through the Plaka neighborhood...
4 nights in Nafplio
- To explore the town of Nafplio, the Theatre of Epidaurus, Mycenae, and Olympia
Then off to Milos for 7/8 nights (it was so hard to pick just one island). I’m considering flying from Athens with Olympic Air.
Is it worth doing a guided tour of the Acropolis or the other sites?
I’m open to all your tips.
Thanks so much.
Hi there
I hope you're starting this new year with your head full of travel memories or plans!!
I’d love to spend a week in July on a Greek island with my 8-year-old son. I’m totally in love with Amorgos, but not all the beaches are accessible for him. I’ve been to Santorini and Naxos before and don’t want to go back. Would you have an island to recommend that’s not too crowded 😕, with a few accessible beaches and where we won’t have to fight to get around or park?
Have a great day Christelle
I hope you're starting this new year with your head full of travel memories or plans!!
I’d love to spend a week in July on a Greek island with my 8-year-old son. I’m totally in love with Amorgos, but not all the beaches are accessible for him. I’ve been to Santorini and Naxos before and don’t want to go back. Would you have an island to recommend that’s not too crowded 😕, with a few accessible beaches and where we won’t have to fight to get around or park?
Have a great day Christelle
Hi there, or γεια σας.
When will the July schedules for Greek ferries (specifically the Prévélis - Karpathos-Sitia route, which I'm interested in) be available?
Catherine
When will the July schedules for Greek ferries (specifically the Prévélis - Karpathos-Sitia route, which I'm interested in) be available?
Catherine
