Posts by Ticapi

Your message gives me the opportunity to remind everyone that, for about fifteen years now, plans have been in place to build a new international airport near Chinchero. The only argument put forward is to address the isolation of the current Cusco airport, which is not easily accessible. The earthworks have unfortunately begun. The Sacred Valley will never be the same again. JLMA

When we passed through Chinchero, our driver actually showed us the construction site. It’s really a shame for the Sacred Valley.

He explained that most of the locals in Chinchero support the project because the airport is expected to create jobs. According to him, several hotels are already planned, including one under construction at the time of our visit.

From what he said, many people are mainly focused on the economic benefits and haven’t yet fully grasped the impact this airport will have, particularly in terms of noise. Once it’s operational, it will indeed allow for an increase in the number of flights in the region.

Did you and Guillaume coordinate to finish almost at the same time?😉

Not at all😅 I'm way behind on reading some travel journals, including Guillaume's.😊 I'll catch up on all that... but probably after we get back from our vacation.

Friday, May 9th and Saturday, May 10th

The breakfast buffet is hearty and varied—we make the most of it. Afterward, we take the shuttle to the airport, where we check in our luggage without any issues.

Our Iberia flight to Madrid takes off on time, and we arrive as scheduled. In Madrid, we have to switch terminals quickly since we only have 1h20 before our connecting flight. Despite the tight window, everything goes smoothly, and we board on time for our flight to Geneva.

We land in Geneva at 9 AM. From there, we take the train and then the bus to get home. This incredible trip to Peru comes to an end, but it leaves us with unforgettable images and emotions.

I’ll post a trip summary soon.

When traveling in Peru, one detail quickly catches your eye: the many houses that seem never to be finished. Everywhere, steel rods stick out of brick walls, roofs are missing, and you can tell an extra floor is waiting. In some regions, it even feels like half the homes—whether in cities or villages—are left unfinished.

At first, it’s easy to assume it’s due to a lack of funds. That’s what we thought too. But one of our drivers gave us a completely different explanation: often, Peruvians *choose* not to finish their houses to avoid paying property taxes. They live in the completed parts—ground floors or habitable levels—and leave the rest under construction, sometimes indefinitely.

A surprising explanation that completely changes how you see these unfinished urban landscapes. Behind these open-to-the-sky houses, it’s not always about financial struggles, but rather a tax strategy.

Thursday, May 8

The hotel receptionist booked us a taxi. We head to Cusco Airport, our flight goes smoothly, and we arrive in Lima on time. We pick up our luggage right away and meet Richard, our driver, who’s waiting in the hall and takes us to the Holiday Inn Airport hotel, where we drop off our things.

Approaching Lima Airport

We then set off for downtown Lima and are dropped off in front of the Basilica del Santísimo Rosario. From there, we walk to Plaza Mayor to admire Lima Cathedral and the elegant buildings surrounding it. We continue our stroll to the San Francisco Convent, then to the Muralla Park. From there, we have a stunning view of the Rímac district and its colorful houses built on the hillside. Despite the tempting view, we decide not to venture there due to the risk of mugging.













The view of the Rímac district

For lunch, we enjoy a ceviche at the Muralla restaurant before returning to Plaza Mayor. We then visit the Central Reserve Bank of Peru Museum, a former bank turned into a museum to preserve and showcase its art collections. Entry is free—just pick up a badge in the neighboring building.



We then wander down the main pedestrian street to Plaza San Martín, pass by the Iglesia de la Merced, and return to Plaza Mayor for a cocktail at a bar with a great view of the square. We wrap up with a visit back to the Basilica del Santísimo Rosario. A few police officers are stationed at the entrance, but they let us in without any issues.



Richard picks us up to take us back to the Holiday Inn Airport hotel. We have a quiet dinner at the hotel restaurant. Laurent had strongly advised us not to walk around Callao at night.

To be continued... Read the next part of the travel journal

I remember your travel journal around the same time—it seems the weather on the Cape side was pretty changeable (between clear blue skies and overcast)... fingers crossed, Angélique

Yeah, but nothing bothersome, and the sun was often out. We saw Table Mountain in great weather. If you get a chance, the botanical garden is stunning this time of year.

Hi Agnes,

I started your travel journal on My Atlas and I’ll continue here. 🙂

I then thought about visiting the Garoé interpretation center, the sacred tree of the Bimbaches, the first inhabitants of El Hierro.

This little island seems nice. At least, it’s more appealing than Gran Canaria.

Did you go to La Gomera? Apparently, it’s great for hiking.

Same here but it was raining:

Uh, you’re really not lucky with the weather… If you want, let us know when you’re planning to travel so we can pick another date or destination. 😉

Thanks Mathilde for this beautiful travel journal!

I think you’d also like the south of Namibia. We went there on our second pass through Sesriem before doing the TTT and added the stunning Richtersveld Park in South Africa before heading to Augrabies Falls and KTP.

Thanks Muriel for your reply.

Shortly after, Laurent calls me back: there’s still space on the 10:00 AM flight. We give our okay and receive our boarding passes five minutes later. What efficiency!

Shows that even if you love traveling independently, it’s sometimes handy to have a local contact (as long as they’re as efficient as Laurent ;)).

Indeed :)

Of course, we could’ve made this change without Laurent, but it’s really convenient not to have to spend time on it. Plus, the price we paid for this service was more than reasonable. Personally, I’d definitely use TP again.

Indeed, as tourists, we don’t realize what it means for the animals.

Yeah, we’re often not attentive enough to these kinds of things. It’s the same with sweets handed out to kids, "safaris" where you can pet lion or tiger cubs… But on VF, there are regular warnings, and I think that’s really great.

About the photos of Peruvian women with alpacas, I really got the feeling that we contributed, despite ourselves, to the discomfort of the baby alpaca... There were two adults and a little one 😕

I think we all end up regretting some things we did during a trip at one point or another. The most important thing, in my opinion, is to share this kind of information on forums and social media to raise awareness among future travelers and help them avoid making the same mistake.

To go down, you don’t cross the basins. You take the path above, on the left flank

It’s precisely that path on the left flank that’s no longer accessible.

Hi Pascale,

I’m so excited for this trip—it’s already off to a great start with a four-legged lawnmower. 😄

Question for those who've done the TTT: did you have the same experience as me?

Yeah, with the changing light, you get the impression the landscape shifts. We were there in April and had an unforgettable storm the first night. I wrote about it in my 2018 travel journal.

Quick question—didn’t you guys go to Sesriem to see the different dunes and vleis?

Hi Mathilde,

A little late, but I’m happily jumping into the 4x4 with you. 🙂

Your photos bring back memories of our trips to Namibia. We’ve been there three times and loved the landscapes, the wildlife, and the fact that you can do some great hikes.

We also went through Tourmaline. I planned the itineraries myself, and Tourmaline handled the bookings. They were very efficient, and it was actually really convenient and no more expensive.

The Tok Tokkie Trail is unforgettable—this desert is so beautiful. We loved that stop too.

In 2016, we also went up to Epupa, and like you, I didn’t enjoy the “excursion” to see the Himbas.

I’d love to go back to Namibia, but I’m afraid I’d be disappointed after our three trips. It seems much more touristy now. We were there in June-July 2016 for 4 weeks, in 2017 for only 8 days, and in 2018 for 3 1/2 weeks. Each time, a different itinerary and combining the trip with other neighboring countries.

I’m looking forward to reading the rest, especially since you’re taking your time to really enjoy the stops. Too many travelers “do” Namibia at a breakneck pace.

Thanks Muriel for your review. It’s true that your experience doesn’t really make you want to go there. But I think without all the setbacks from road and site closures, the review would’ve been different.

Have you visited other islands—Tenerife, Lanzarote, etc.? If so, which one’s your favorite?

In cities like Cusco and Arequipa, you might come across Peruvians in traditional clothing holding a baby alpaca, lamb, or kid in their arms. They offer tourists the chance to take photos with them for a fee.

I just want to warn you: two of our drivers explained that these young animals, often taken from their mothers, usually don’t survive long. Separated far too early, they’re weakened, and their life expectancy is significantly reduced.

It’s important to keep in mind that a baby goat or alpaca "is worth" less, unfortunately, than the money made from these photos.

Even if it might seem harmless or cute, these practices have real consequences for animal welfare.