Posts by Cebvl

Hi Isabelle,

On the islands we visited, the main spots are natural pools—basically sheltered areas where you can swim without worrying about the waves. For beaches, it’s mostly concrete on the rocks. There are a few sandy beaches if you look around, but the Azores aren’t really a "beach" destination unless you go to Santa Maria Island.

Christine

What I remember most is how cold it was at Trolltunga! Otherwise, no: actually, between 13 and 15°C is perfect for hiking !😉 It might have been cold at night, but with a good sleeping bag, it should be fine!

Thanks, Peggy. That’s reassuring 🙂 . Our sleeping bags were enough for Iceland, so they should work for Norway too. Have a good evening

Hi Peggy,

Thanks for this roadbook—it’s been super helpful for planning our trip this summer. We’ve decided to drive up from France, so we’ll only be visiting the fjords region. I see you had variable weather: temperature-wise, did you get cold at times? Were the nights chilly? We’re hoping to camp, hence my questions. Thanks in advance, Christine

We’ve never had any issues with camping gear in the hold. The tent poles are neatly folded inside the tent fabric, and the rest is safe. The biggest problem is the space it takes up in a backpack or suitcase. Once you’ve packed the sleeping mats, sleeping bags (even small and lightweight ones), tent, and cooking gear, there’s not much room left for extras or stylish clothes 🙂.

On São Miguel, there’s a Decathlon with the same products as back home (and the same prices). On Flores, there’s someone who rents out gear: they’ll deliver the tent and mats/sleeping bag to your campsite. If you don’t want to lug the gear on the plane, you’ll need to find a solution on each island you visit.

Best, Christine

Hi Marine,

On Flores and São Miguel, the sites weren’t marked, so no reservations were possible—we just pitched our tents wherever we could/wanted. But on Terceira, the sites were numbered, and the locals had all reserved theirs. The week of August 15th, only sites with no shade or poorly located ones were left. For a little anecdote, we misunderstood the receptionist about our departure date, and the site we’d set up at for 4 nights wasn’t actually free on the last night. When we got back from our hike that evening, our tents had been moved without warning—with all our stuff still inside (just the stakes removed). Result: the poles on both our tents were broken. We jury-rigged them as best we could (that roll of duct tape came in *so* handy 🙂) but thankfully we didn’t have bad weather during the trip, because we wouldn’t have been able to keep camping!

I don’t have the phone number anymore, but email the tourism office—they’ll give you the campgrounds’ contact info.

Happy planning! Christine

Hi there

Don’t forget to factor in the parking cost too 🙂. About your question, I’d read that it was one of the largest aquariums in the world, which surprised me because we finished the tour pretty quickly despite the crowds. That said, the species are presented in a really original and modern way, the English explanations are interesting, and we loved the jellyfish collection—it’s beautifully displayed and something we’d never seen anywhere else. It’s also a research and animal protection center, and the story about the old sardine factory is pretty cool too. Great for kids since there are tons of activities for them.

It was the start of our trip and our first big expense, so we were a little surprised by the cost-to-time ratio, but in the end, everything’s super expensive in California, so it’s par for the course. In conclusion, depending on your family size, the total cost can get pretty steep—that’s why I mentioned the price. If you loved it the first time, there’s no reason you’d be disappointed the second time!

Hi Caroline,

I don’t really have any advice on car rentals. There were three of us, and we had a compact car booked with Alamo. Back in 2008, we were traveling with the kids, so five people: the only thing I remember is that we found the trunk small compared to the model type listed on the reservation. After a day, we went back to the airport where we’d picked up the car, and they swapped us into a different model (same class) without any issues.

The parks are accessible by car, and the paths are very well maintained—even paved in places to allow handicap access—so they’re often really easy for walking. You should check each park’s website for a list of trails and their features. I think you need to book Antelope Canyon well in advance now, but it’s absolutely stunning! Happy planning, Christine

thanks for the info, I’ll check it out ;)

12/31/2024: From Santa Barbara to Santa Monica Stroll along the Santa Barbara pier and its palm-lined streets. We then take Highway 1 (watch out—the GPS defaults to the 101) to Santa Monica: a succession of vast beaches, palm trees, piers jutting into the sea, and names we know from TV shows (Santa Barbara, Malibu...). We stop in Ventura with its housing developments nestled among canals, then at Point Dume (great view and a few sea elephants below). Once in Santa Monica, we park the car at the motel and head out for a walk on the famous pier. It’s New Year’s Eve, so we treat ourselves to a beautiful sound-and-light show (Astra Lumina) in a botanical garden. Small detail that’s unusual for us French: before entering the park, we have to sign a waiver stating that the park can’t be held responsible if we get hurt!







01/01/2025: Los Angeles (Hollywood Blvd) and return to SF Before heading back to SF, we stop by the famous Hollywood Blvd in Los Angeles. It’s 10 AM on January 1st—no one’s on the roads, and there’s even free parking on the boulevard! Only a few tourists are already up. This street is known for the stars embedded in the sidewalks and the theater where the Oscars are held every year. On our way out, we try to get a closer look at the "HOLLYWOOD" sign towering over the city. We get lost among the beautiful villas—it’s tricky to find parking, so we just make a quick photo stop (though there’s a pedestrian path that leads up to the sign). Then it’s a monotonous 650 km drive back to SF via Highway 5.





01/02/2025: Return to France In conclusion: a great trip with a mix of nature and cities. A little later in the season, we might’ve enjoyed the beautiful beaches even more...

If you have any questions, I’d be happy to answer! Christine

Hi everyone,

We traveled between Christmas and New Year’s to visit our son in San Francisco. We’d already seen the parks during a 2008 vacation but hadn’t had time to drive Highway 1 between San Francisco and Los Angeles, so we decided to do it this time. At this time of year, the days are short—it gets dark by 5 PM, which limits sightseeing time. Weather-wise, we had temperatures between 11°C and 20°C (52°F and 68°F) during the week, so it was pretty pleasant. There was a bit of rain one day and some gray skies or fog in the mornings. Financially, California is *very* expensive! Prices listed don’t include tax or tips. Taxes are automatically added to restaurant bills or supermarket receipts, but *you* add the tip. Americans always leave a tip, no matter if they’re happy with the service or not (except at self-service places). The absolute minimum is 15%, but 20% is more common. Here’s how it works: First, the server brings the bill with the tax already added, then takes your card and the bill. They come back after charging your card, leaving you a new bill and a pen. You write down the tip (tips) you want to leave, add it up, and sign. You leave the paper and pen on the table and go. In some restaurants, the server brings the card reader to your table, and there are preset tip percentages to choose from. On your bank statement, the total amount (including tax) shows up as “pending.” A few days later, the transaction is finalized with the tip included. The 9-hour time difference isn’t trivial, especially as we get older 😉. Keep it in mind when planning—don’t overdo it in the first few days.

Here’s our itinerary: 12/25/2024: Flight from Lyon (7 AM) to San Francisco (11:50 AM): 1-hour layover in Amsterdam—way too tight. The airport is huge, and flights to the U.S. are at the far end. You also have to go through customs. We had to run! Luckily, there’s a special line for tight connections, and our flight was delayed! Reunited with our son and walked to the Painted Ladies (Victorian houses) and then through Alamo Square. Return trip via Waymo—a driverless Uber. Surprising, but the ride was super smooth, and we felt safe.

12/26/2024: San Francisco Walking tour of the city: Lombard Street, Pier 39 (sea lions), Coit Tower via the Filbert Steps (great view of the city), Chinatown, and Union Square (ice rink and Christmas tree).

12/27/2024: Monterey It took us about 2.5 hours to drive straight from SF to Monterey (to save time, we skipped the start of Highway 1). The goal for this stop was visiting the aquarium. It’s in an old sardine cannery, and there’s an interesting room showing the machinery and explaining the process. The aquarium features all the local fish and plant species, plus a stunning jellyfish exhibit. We spent about 2.5 hours there. Entry is pricey at $65, and it was packed when we went. For parking, you can use meters or day lots. The cheapest we found was $25 for the day, with in-and-out privileges. We saw some closer lots charging $80, so it’s worth shopping around before parking and walking a bit more. Afterward, we stopped by the Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary—a small, free park where these butterflies land, along with some wild deer. We ended the day at Lover’s Point, a park with an ocean view and surfers. That evening, we tried clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl. Stayed overnight in Monterey.

12/28/2024: Big Sur Parks The Big Sur area has many state parks. Entry is $10 per car for the day (valid for any number of parks visited that same day). Pro tip: If you park outside and walk in, you don’t pay. We chose to visit Point Lobos Reserve. We hiked the trails along the ocean. Two must-do (short and easy) trails: “Sea Lion Point,” where massive waves crash onto the rocks, and “Bird Island Lookout,” where you can see thousands of pelicans and cormorants on the rocks, plus a few elephant seals. It’s truly stunning. We spent about 3 hours there. After driving along Garrapata State Park and crossing the famous Bixby Bridge, we went to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park to do the short Valley View Trail + Pfeiffer Falls hike. It was nice being among the redwoods, but the waterfall was underwhelming. Maybe it’s more impressive in the summer when the river is flowing better. We ended the day at McWay Falls, a waterfall that flows directly into the ocean—super photogenic, especially at sunset. Returned to Monterey for the night.







12/29/2024: Drive to Morro Bay Highway 1 is currently closed near Gorda, so we had to take the inland route from Monterey, adding extra miles. It was raining, so we skipped the planned stop at Carmel-by-the-Sea. Instead, we detoured to Mission San Antonio de Padua, the 3rd mission (out of 21) built by the Spanish in 1773 to evangelize the region. It’s less famous than others, so there were fewer people, and it felt more “authentic” (free to visit). With fog adding to the rain, we headed straight to Morro Bay, our stop for the day, instead of continuing up Highway 1 to San Simeon. Took a short evening walk to Morro Rock—saw a few otters in the harbor. Stayed overnight in Morro Bay.



12/30/2024: Elephant Seals at Piedras Blancas The sun came back! We took a quick walk on the pier to see the otters in daylight, then drove back up Highway 1 to Piedras Blancas (near San Simeon), a famous spot for elephant seals. It’s birthing season, so there were lots of pups, plus males fighting for the females’ attention—what a show! We couldn’t get enough. We walked to the Piedras Blancas Lighthouse, with a few viewpoints of beaches where elephant seals were lounging (though far fewer than at the beach near the parking lot). We continued to Santa Barbara, our stop for the day. Stopped in San Luis Obispo for lunch and a quick city tour (Bubblegum Alley, the theater facade, and the mission). Since it was getting late, we skipped Los Alamos and went straight to Solvang, a charming Danish-style town (windmills, typical Danish houses) with lots of holiday lights (it’s their Julefest). Stayed overnight in Santa Barbara.

Hi Jean Michel, We totally agree that it's super expensive, but the car fleet on each island is limited. So the longer you wait, the fewer options there are and the higher the prices. The other local rental companies didn’t even have any availability left when I booked. I’d checked with international rental companies too, but they weren’t any cheaper and it wasn’t at all certain they still had cars (at least on Flores). Christine

Yes, the island of Santo Antão in Cape Verde is perfect for this kind of circuit: we took two taxi transfers to shorten the distances, but for good hikers, it’s not even necessary. You just need to get GPS tracks from the internet or buy them through an agency since there’s very little signposting, but it’s an amazing experience.

We were definitely lucky, but only 2 nights of rain on São Miguel during our whole stay! [:🙂

Best, Christine

Hi Franck,

As far as I know, wild camping and bivouacking are prohibited in the Azores, especially since campsites are cheap or even free. For trekking (I understand: hiking on foot from one point to another), I looked into it because we really enjoyed our experience in Cape Verde, but I didn’t find any routes, especially on São Miguel and Terceira. On Flores, it might be a bit more doable, even if you have to call a taxi now and then. Best regards, Christine

Hi again Marine,

No problem with our little car (a Clio). There aren’t any steep climbs like in Madeira, which we also visited.

For the order of visits, both islands have must-see spots, so it doesn’t really matter which one you do last. I chose this order because Flores is the farthest, and you always have to return to an island with an international airport. Since inter-island flights are often disrupted, it was better to play it safe—otherwise, you’d need a big buffer! The second reason was that during the last week of August, there are fewer tourists. Since São Miguel is the most touristy island, we made sure there’d be fewer crowds and easier last-minute accommodation if the weather turned really bad.

Christine

Hi Marine,

If I had no constraints, I wouldn’t travel during the week of August 15th, no matter the destination! Even though we were lucky with the weather. For hydrangeas, it’s probably better a little earlier in the season—they were already past their prime during our stay. The choice of Terceira was based on flight ticket prices. Initially, I wanted Faial so I could visit two central islands by boat. After doing Pico do Fogo in Cape Verde the year before, I highly recommend Pico to hikers. But no regrets—we weren’t bored on Terceira (though maybe don’t visit it *after* the others). Camping wasn’t just a budget choice—we love it! 😊 But if you’re looking to rent, book early. In May, there was nothing left to reserve for our dates in Flores.

For sightseeing and planning, I wouldn’t change a thing. You have to stay flexible because of the unpredictable weather.

That’s about all that comes to mind for now. Hope I’ve answered your question. Best, Christine

Hi everyone,

So glad this forum is back up! Here’s a recap of our three little weeks in the Azores in August 2024, camping on Terceira, Flores/Corvo, and São Miguel, with a special focus on the camping side—something I struggled to find info on before we left.

As others have mentioned, a trip to the Azores isn’t something you can improvise last-minute, especially in August. The rental car fleet is limited, so prices go up as availability drops, and vacation rentals/hotels are scarce. Plus, inter-island flights and ferries aren’t exactly frequent. I picked our destination in mid-April, and there were already few rental car options left (some local companies had nothing), and no accommodations on Flores for our dates—or only very expensive ones requiring multiple location changes. Since we love camping, we decided to bring our gear without really knowing what to expect.

Flight with TAP (426 €): Outbound: Lyon → Lisbon → Terceira Return: São Miguel → Lisbon (9-hour stopover for a quick visit) → Lyon

Inter-island flights with SATA: Terceira → Flores (via Horta): 87 € Flores → São Miguel: 90 €

I rented all three cars from the same local company, Ilha Grande—they weren’t picky about the car’s condition. For a Clio (or similar): Terceira (4 days): 461 € Flores (5 days): 623 € São Miguel (8 days): 730 €

Weather: The first two weeks were gorgeous—blue skies, no rain, and even hotter than we expected, around 30°C (temperatures barely dropped at night). The last week of August brought more fine rain (mostly at night) and temps between 20 and 25°C (a light jacket was nice in the mornings and evenings).

TERCEIRA: A great introduction! When I looked at what each island had to offer, Terceira wasn’t at the top of my list, but flying into Terceira cut costs and fit our schedule well, so we spent 4 days there. It turned out to be a lovely start.

For camping, we stayed at Salga Campismo in Porto Judeu, 20 minutes from the airport. We discovered that the island’s campsites were packed with locals—extended families or groups of friends having big, festive gatherings with barbecues and long tables. They spend their summers camping instead of at home, and some even commute to work from there. They had huge tents for sleeping, plus tarps for cooking and relaxing—way more gear than the tourists. Since the week of August 15th is peak vacation time (like in France), we struggled to find a spot, and the nights were pretty noisy. This was the only campsite of the trip with numbered pitches. It’s right by the ocean, next to natural pools. Facilities were decent, with hot showers and picnic tables. Lots of shaded spots. Cost: 4 € per small tent + 2 € per person. Electrical outlets were free (20 € deposit). During our explorations, we passed by Cinco Ribeiras campsite (west coast), which seemed similar.

Camping gas: Always ask the campsite reception if any travelers left a gas canister before buying a new one! Before the trip, I emailed each island’s tourism office, and they gave me addresses for Campingaz bottles. On Terceira, No. 13 Rua João Vaz Corte Real in Angra do Heroísmo (an agricultural store in the industrial zone). CV300 cartridge: 10 €. Note: The tourism office gave me the name of the neighboring store, which didn’t carry that brand.

Fridge: No fridges at any campsite on any island. We had a foldable cooler and found bags of crushed ice in supermarkets’ fish sections.

Things to see: Key takeaway: Do the must-see spots early in your stay in case the weather doesn’t cooperate. We were lucky and saw all the viewpoints without clouds—apparently not always the case!

Our main visits/hikes on Terceira: Miradouro Serra do Cume (a must—*the* iconic Terceira photo)

Furnas do Enxofre (free): Few fumaroles, but a pretty 1 km walk through moss and endemic plants. Hike PRC01 TER – Misterios Negros (some acrobatic sections, but a very scenic path). Monte Brasil + Angra do Heroísmo: Lovely town. Hike PR02 TER – Baía da Agualva: Nice, but not much shade (along the coast). Quatro Ribeiras: Church and swimming in natural pools. Biscoitos natural pools: Too touristy (but still free).





FLORES: Our favorite! This was the island I *had* to visit, and we weren’t disappointed—no mass tourism, just stunning nature.

For camping, we chose Santa Cruz campsite. Unlike Terceira, it was only tourists here. Very little shade, but ocean views. Modern facilities with hot showers, clotheslines, and a charging station. A big area with picnic tables, each with a barbecue and sink, all sheltered. Right across from gorgeous natural pools. FREE (you can leave a tip for the caretaker).

For Campingaz, the campsite manager stores canisters and gear left by campers. Otherwise, you can find them at Movipesca.

During a hike, we passed by Fajã Grande campsite (campsites here double as picnic spots for everyone). It’s terraced, with no shade, but very clean facilities and a small bar/restaurant nearby. Natural pools across the street. When we stopped by midday, there were only a few tents. Fajã Grande felt even quieter than Santa Cruz, with just one supermarket.

We also picnicked at Ponta Delgada campsite in the north. Impeccable facilities, lots of picnic tables with barbecues. Empty when we were there. A bit out of the way.

Rental car or not on Flores? Given the high cost, I really debated whether we needed a car. In Santa Cruz, the port, airport, and supermarkets are walkable, and the most famous hikes are one-way, not loops. So I contacted a taxi (the tourism office emails a list of drivers—they don’t wait for customers; you have to call). Prices were around 20 € for Santa Cruz to Fajã Grande, for example. That means you could take several taxi trips before the rental car (over 100 €/day) pays off. But it does mean planning your route and schedule in advance, leaving little room for spontaneity. The taxi I contacted was already booked solid in July, so I decided to keep the car and adjust our hikes to make loops. (FYI, we’re in our 50s, two couples splitting costs—maybe a different calculation if we were 25!) No regrets—it gave us way more freedom.

Our main visits/hikes:

Hike (amazing): Poço da Ribeira do Ferreiro (the iconic waterfalls) → Fajã Grande → Poço do Bacalhau (swim in the waterfall) → Aldeia da Cuada → Poço da Ribeira do Ferreiro. Hike PR04: Loop from Miradouro da Fajã de Lopo Vaz, then down to the beach via the trail. Return along the pebble beach before climbing back up. Worth it, but the descent and ascent are steep.

By car: Miradouro do Portal (great view of the coast to Fajã Grande) – Rocha dos Bordões (basalt columns) – Miradouro das Lagoas Rasa e Funda (a must) – Miradouro da Fajã do Conde.

Hike: Miradouro das Lagoas Funda e Comprida, Lagoa Negra, Seca e Branda, Lagoa Branca. A bit muddy and not as memorable as other hikes. The best part (a must) is the view from the starting miradouro.





By car: The north of the island.

CORVO: Stunning!!

No spots left on the ferry (12 seats), so we took a tourist zodiac (booked a few weeks ahead by email, but there were still spots the day of—several boats make the trip). On the way out, we cruised along Flores’ coast to see waterfalls and caves. On the return, they looked for dolphins (we saw some! 🙂 ). Boat price: 35 € per person. At Corvo, minibuses shuttle between the port and the top of the caldera (10 € round-trip per person). Lots of people just stop at the viewpoint when the shuttle arrives, so we weren’t too crowded on the caldera hike. But it’s too tight on time to walk back down to the port. If you really want to, I think you’d need to stay overnight. All boats spend the same amount of time on the island.



SÃO MIGUEL: Back to civilization—but not just that! São Miguel is way more touristy than the other islands (though still nothing compared to other destinations), but it’s worth it for all the natural sites.

For camping, to avoid long drives, we started at Sete Cidades campsite on the west side. A big, free, terraced campsite with some shade. We were there the last week of August, when crowds start thinning, so there was space—a mix of tourists and locals. A few picnic tables with barbecues. For facilities, one side for men, one for women, each with one toilet (cleaned regularly) and three outdoor cold showers (swimsuits recommended). You can charge your phone in the caretaker’s hut.

After exploring the west, we moved to Furnas for the rest of the trip. We arrived on a Friday night, and the campsite was packed with locals spending the weekend. It emptied out Sunday afternoon. A large, shady campsite with several bathroom blocks (hot showers). There’s a restaurant, but only two picnic tables. Cost: 3.5 € per small tent + 3.5 € per person.

Campingaz: We bought canisters at Decathlon in Ponta Delgada (next to Decathlon, there’s a big shopping center for groceries). Didn’t ask at Sete Cidades, but at Furnas, there was a closet full of gas bottles of all sizes left by campers.

Main visits/hikes: Sete Cidades and the surrounding lakes (lots of viewpoints and short hikes): Beautiful.



Swimming in the hot springs at Ponta da Ferraria (west side of the island).



Furnas: The lake, fumaroles, and parks (like Terra Nostra).



Lagoa do Fogo (gorgeous).



Gorreana tea factory (nice hike through the tea fields + guided tour), Ribeira Grande, Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Paz. The east coast and Ribeira dos Caldeirões park. Ponta Delgada.

Final thoughts: The Azores are a fantastic discovery for nature lovers—lakes, waterfalls, and tranquility. Almost all sites are accessible without hiking (though it’s a shame not to). The “miradouros” (viewpoints) have parking, often with toilets and picnic tables (always very clean), which helps protect nature. Camping is totally doable and really enjoyable! Our only disappointment: Not finding good fruits and veggies (except for São Miguel’s delicious but expensive pineapples).

If you have any questions, I’d be happy to help! Christine

Bonsoir Thierry,

C'est vrai que les régions du dhofar et du musandam que nous n'avions pas pu voir la première fois faute de temps me tentent bien aussi 😉 Cordialement Christine

Merci Willemspie et Meg2. Je note vos conseils. Je pense que l'on va se consacrer à l'Ouzbékistan pour cette année et que le Tadjikistan mérite un voyage à lui seul éventuellement avec le matériel de camping pour pouvoir faire des bivouacs car le pays semble s'y prêter.

Cordialement Christine

Bonjour

Merci à tous pour avoir pris le temps de me répondre.

Loinloin et Slabeudad, vos réponses me confirment que ce n'est pas évident de se débrouiller seuls en dehors des villes principales. Je n'ai effectivement pas trouvé d'hôtel / guesthouse dans ces coins à réserver via internet (la seule qui est sur booking est déjà pleine à nos dates). J'ai l'impression que la location de voiture pour les touristes commence à se faire mais je pense que pour une fois, on va essayer de prendre un guide local pour nos journées hors des villes : C'est vrai que ce n'est plus le même budget qu'un voyage en individuel mais, si le guide est bien, cela peut être intéressant pour mieux connaitre le pays.

Willemspie, J'ai découvert les monts Fan, par hasard, en préparant ce voyage et je me suis posée la question d'y aller car cela m'a semblé magnifique . Mais ensuite je me suis dit que le Tadjikistan valait peut-être un voyage à lui seul. Qu'en pensez vous ? Est ce qu'il est plus logique d'aller aux monts Fan depuis l'Ouzbékistan car loin des autres curiosités du pays ou est ce qu'il est envisageable de les inclure lors d'un circuit au Tadjikistan ?

Merci Christine