Posts by Clabin

For accommodation in Tokyo, wouldn’t you have forgotten Shinagawa? (one of my favorite places to stay, along with Ikebukuro) Also really easy to access and great connections for future trips (NEX, Yamanote, Keihin Tohoku, Keikyu, Tokaido Hon-sen, and Tokaido Shinkansen).

For Tokyo, I’ve always preferred hotels that qualify as "ekimae" (right in front of the station) at one of the many stations on the Yamanote Line. With it, you can get almost anywhere. For Osaka, I also recommend "ekimae" hotels near Umeda or Namba-Nankai stations, given how convenient these neighborhoods are and how close they are to transportation. And, generally speaking, I’d always go for "ekimae" hotels throughout Japan. My son ("Serow") is a big fan of Toyoko Inn for their value for money—and most of them are "ekimae" too.

I still remember that trip in 1993 and the week we spent in Kurashiki, visiting the Seto Ohashi, Shikoku Mura, and, above all, Hiroshima and its trams. For me, it was the third of my eight trips.

About thirty years ago, we spent a week in Kurashiki and did Hiroshima/Miyajima as a day trip. It was totally doable, even eating an ekiben we bought at Hiroshima Station on one of the last evening trains. Another very doable day trip is to Takamatsu and Ritsurin-koen (I think it’s the second most beautiful in Japan) via the great Seto Ohashi Bridge over the Seto Inland Sea.

If not Kurashiki, Okayama might be an even better place to stay since it’s easier for connections and has several "ekimae" hotels near or even inside the station. Plus, it’s an easy 15-minute trip to spend the day in Kurashiki.

"The shinkansen has been running all the way to Kanazawa for quite some time now, and it’s even been extended to Tsuruga recently."

Yeah, I know—but what I was talking about was way before all those extensions to the Nagano Shinkansen.

Eric should remember that we took a trip together many years ago from Toyohashi to Tokyo on a Kodama train, and what’s more, in a "non-reserved" car that was packed—it wasn’t fun at all. Especially when, at every stop, we’d get passed by all the Hikari and Nozomi trains zooming by at full speed, practically mocking us.

That said, if you want to take in the scenery along the way at your own pace, there’s nothing stopping you from using the classic line (Tōkaidō Honsen), but you’ll need to set aside the whole day for it.

We did this another time when traveling from Ikebukuro to Kyoto via the Hokuhoku Line, Toyama, and Kanazawa—just to avoid taking the shinkansen again.

Tokyo and Kyoto are indeed classics, but that doesn’t mean they’re must-sees. There are tons of other regions and places that are interesting (to visit or stay in) and really capture Japanese life.

For starters, I prefer landing at KIX (Osaka) rather than NRT or HND (Tokyo) so I can dive right into the regions I’ve chosen. I love the Matsumoto area (especially its castle) as well as Hiroshima and the Seto Inland Sea. As for staying in a monastery (max one or two nights), I think it’s usually arranged at Koya-san (easily accessible from Osaka-Namba). Spending a few days in Osaka also lets you comfortably explore the Kansai region (Osaka, Kyoto—both inside and out—, Nara, Koya-san, Wakayama, Himeji, etc.) thanks to the extensive public transport network run by different companies.

Sure, 16 and 20 hours is a lot. But when you factor in the time to exit and then go through immigration (3 to 4 hours?), not to mention the trips to and from the airport (which can be really long), you might wonder if it's worth the hassle given all the administrative steps involved. Not to mention the risks of traffic jams, getting lost, or not ending up in the right place to see something interesting. And on top of that, what do you do with your luggage if it’s not checked through "in transit"? A good book might just do the trick 😕

On one hand, this would let us avoid changing hotels in Tokyo, but on the other, staying in Kamakura might (maybe) let us enjoy the place without the crowds...

Good point!!!

But then, we could say the same thing about Odawara.

And there’s nothing stopping us from going to Kamakura first and then Odawara; you just take a train on the Tokaido-Hon-sen line from Ofuna (toward Shizuoka) and get off at Odawara, where there’s a Toyoko Inn 200 m behind the station.

We should check on a detailed map how many extra kilometers this adds TO THE HIKE. And also see what the access paths are like. I’ll look in my road atlas unless we find a good description online. We should also check the bus schedules for Magome and Tsuwano in relation to Nakatsugawa. But, as I already mentioned, very few trains stop at Nagiso, even though it’s the closest to Tsuwano.

A big backpack seems like a real handicap. It might be better to do a round trip from Matsumoto (or Nagoya) unless you find good accommodation in Nakatsugawa. As mentioned elsewhere, almost all trains in the Kiso Valley are express and don’t stop at Nagiso (for Tsumago) but at Nakatsugawa, where you can take buses to Magome. You should also consider which direction you want to hike (uphill, downhill, or a round trip, e.g., from Magome).

« Our main goal is to have a varied trip, more focused on small towns or villages than megacities. » In that case, Matsumoto, Takehara, Iwakuni, Takamatsu, Kurashiki, Tsuyama, Matsue, Onomichi, Kagoshima, or even Nagasaki and their surrounding areas are perfect choices. « Without leaving Tokyo and Kyoto aside, of course. » Tokyo is so diverse depending on the neighborhood that you might sometimes wonder if all of Tokyo isn’t just one big village (Tabata, for example), while other districts are practically cities in their own right (Shinjuku or Ikebukuro, for instance). Don’t forget to head to the Odaiba peninsula with its automated metro that overlooks Tokyo Bay (sit at the front of the train!) or take a full loop around Tokyo on the Yamanote Line train (62-minute ride). Two easy day trips from Tokyo are: 1) Kamakura: Take the train (Keihin-Tohoku or Tokaido Hon-sen line) to Ofuna, then the suspended monorail to Enoshima. After that, take the Enoden tram to Hase to visit the Great Buddha. Then, hop back on the Enoden for Kamakura (2 stops). From Kamakura Station, walk (about 3 km) to Kita-Kamakura Station, stopping to visit one or two of the half-dozen temples along the way. Return to Tokyo by direct train from Kita-Kamakura or Kamakura. 2) Mount Fuji: Take the Kodama shinkansen to Odawara, then head up to Gora with the Hakone-Tozan (and its switchbacks) and continue by funicular and ropeway, with views of Mount Fuji, before descending toward Lake Ashi. Cross the lake by boat, then take a bus to Hakone-Yumoto Station and return to Tokyo via Odawara as you came, or take the Odakyu train to Shinjuku. In Kyoto, I highly recommend dedicating a full day to Arashiyama, visiting Tenryuji Temple and its Zen garden, strolling through the park (which offers lovely views), and exploring the bamboo grove at the back. Get to Arashiyama by tram (Randen) from Shijo-Omiya. A ride on the Sagano Scenic Railway (Torokko train) along the Hozu River from Arashiyama is also a delightful experience. Another great day trip in Kyoto is a circuit combining train, cable car, walking, temple visits, panoramic views, funicular, and metro/tram: head to Demachi-Yanagi Station (by bus 17 or 202, or Keihan train) and take the Eiden train to Yase-Hieizanguchi, then the funicular and Eizan ropeway. Next, walk through the forest (wear good shoes—the trail is full of roots) to Enryakuji Temple, where you’ll get a fantastic view of Lake Biwa. Then, take the funicular back down to Sakamoto, where you’ll catch the train/tram to Hamaotsu, and from there, return to Kyoto (Higashiyama-Sanjo) via the Keihan train/metro.

Heads up! As with everything shared here—including by me—you’ll want to filter out what’s actually relevant to you. I’ve never been to Shirakawa-go, and I regret it 🙁. On the other hand, there are certain places (or their surroundings or the journey to get there) that are absolute favorites of mine and don’t usually make it into the typical tourist circuits. For example: Towada National Park, Seiriyuji, Enriyūji, Arashiyama (Tenryūji)/Sagano, Matsumoto/Kiso, Ritsurin Park, the ferry ride from Hiroshima to Matsuyama, Takehara, Iwakuni (Kintai-kyō Bridge), Nagasaki (Glover Garden), Kōya-san, ....

As I’ve mentioned before, I always base my trips to Japan around trains since it’s my hobby and one of my main draws to the country—and now my son has taken up the torch. But traveling by train sometimes means taking loops to adapt to existing services, schedules, and to make the most of your itinerary. For the places you want to visit, here’s what I’d suggest (some parts of which I’ve done more than once): - From Tokyo (Shinjuku) by train to Matsumoto (Limited Express "Azusa") - A really interesting route with a fleeting view of the back of Mount Fuji - As I’ve said before, Matsumoto Castle is my favorite. - From Matsumoto to Takayama by bus. - Unfortunately, the bus goes through the tunnel instead of over the ridges - From Takayama, take a round trip to Shirakawa-go by bus or continue to Kanazawa. - But this takes you away from Tsumago-Magome. Another option: - From Matsumoto, head down the Kiso Valley by train to Nakatsugawa. - There are very few trains that stop at Nagiso (the closest to Tsumago), but more frequent buses run from Nakatsugawa to Magome. Plus, it’s pretty unrealistic to find a taxi in Nagiso unless you call one from Tsumago, since I think the local bus company operates them from their garage in Tsumago. (That’s actually how I managed to get back to Nagiso station one afternoon—thanks to a special bus for the dozen or so people with me.) - After visiting Tsumago–Magome, take a train back to Nagoya and stay overnight. - Then head back up to Takayama on an express train via a really scenic line that winds along the hillsides, then continue to Shirakawa-go by bus and either head down to Kanazawa or return to Nagoya. - In Nagoya, I’d recommend visiting the Toyota Museum in Nagakute and the new railway museum at Kinjofuto.

yes 😄

Everyone’s answers to these questions can often be seen as subjective since they reflect individual feelings. So, you’ll need to sift through all the advice you receive based on your personal impressions.

For my part, given my heavy use of trains (it’s my hobby) during my many trips (8 times), I’ve always favored hotels located in the immediate vicinity of stations ("Ekimae")—even if the "mae" part is sometimes a bit of a stretch. This is also the option my son has chosen, who’s now taken over (already 9 times), with a preference for the Toyoko Inn chain, which offers decent comfort at an affordable price and comes with a loyalty card he uses for future bookings.

As for ryokans, I’ve had very few opportunities to stay in them, but it’s well-known that they come in all categories, and the top one is certainly the Iwaso on Miyajima Island in Hiroshima Bay.

If my personal favorites can help with your sightseeing choices, here are a few: 1) If you love castles, my favorite is Matsumoto Castle. It’s charming, easy to access, and the train rides to get there are really pleasant (Shinjuku-Matsumoto and the Kiso Valley route). 2) If you love gardens, Ritsurin-koen is one of the most renowned, and the train journey from Okayama to Takamatsu via the Great Seto Bridge (Seto-Ohashi) is fascinating—especially if you stand on the platform behind the driver’s cabin window. 3) To get to Miyajima, opt for the tram on Line 2 rather than the train or ferry, as you won’t see anything from the boat due to splashing. 4) If you like old wooden-house towns, check out Takehara, about an hour by train from Hiroshima along the coast (sometimes with a transfer at Kure or Hiro). 5) If you want to better experience local life during your travels, prioritize local trains (JR or private lines) over the Shinkansen, even though the latter are often very useful and comfortable for faster trips.

Thanks for your comment. I forgot to mention something essential for preparing a trip like this: It’s the sources of information! Sure, you can find a lot online these days, especially on JNTO websites. But reading a good travel guide can also be really helpful—especially if you want to plan things at your own pace, like in the evening from your favorite armchair. I own about half a dozen guides on Japan, and I can tell you that, in my opinion, the Hachette guide is the best. It’s particularly eclectic (not just focused on the "must-sees" like so many other guides), very descriptive thanks to its many "breakdowns," and super easy to read. Worth noting that it’s also available in English (Eyewitness) and Dutch (Capitool). All three versions are identical, down to the page.

Speaking of travel agencies, I have my own thoughts on the matter, having been both an airline representative and a travel agent myself. First observation: The vast majority of travel agents here know absolutely nothing about Japan; they therefore need assistance from the very first steps. And since they don’t know anything, they also don’t know who they could contact locally, so they have to rely on a local tour operator (via brochure or direct contact), who will then pass the request on to their counterpart in Japan. So, we’ve already lost two layers of negotiations—and thus, two layers of "commission." Second observation: Since a tour typically visits several places, this Japanese tour operator will contact various local operators, not necessarily directly with the service providers. And there goes a third layer lost. Third observation: As you rightly pointed out, for safety reasons, the services offered will generally be of a higher category than actually needed, if not outright superfluous. Fourth observation: That’s how the final price of your trip will be at least doubled. Final thoughts: Since none of these intermediaries know you, they’ll often propose solutions that don’t necessarily match your expectations. Moreover, if you have the time to do all this yourself (it’ll take *many* evenings), you’ll experience your trip four times over: the research—the preparation—the execution—and then the memories.