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Visiting Mudumalai Reserve: practical info and online booking?
by Coufette · 2025-04-15 · 1 reply
Hi everyone, I’m in Masinagudi. I’d love to visit the Mudumalai Reserve. I’ve got conflicting info. My guidebook (Lonely Planet) says you can buy tickets on the spot, but apparently it’s online-only now—and no availability… Any useful tips? Thanks! :)
Trail conditions in Sikkim during the summer months
by Choco · 2025-04-14 · 2 replies
Hello everyone, dear Globetrotters,

Just a quick message to ask what the roads and trails are like in Sikkim in July and August, please?

I’m quite familiar with India during the monsoon since I’ve already slogged through it (Kolkata and the Ganges plain), and I live in Réunion where I do trail running, so I’m not too worried about walking in the rain... but my question is more about access and feasibility.

Do you think it’s still possible to get around easily in Sikkim (not too many roads closed) and have a chance of occasional clear views?

Ideally, I’d love to explore the north and west of Sikkim with views of Kanchenjunga. It’s not a big deal if I have to wait for moments when it clears—I’ll have time.

What do you think?

If you’ve got good reasons to check out the east of Sikkim, I’m all ears... ;-)

Have a great day, everyone, and thanks in advance,

Nico
Driver for 6 people for 2 weeks in Kerala
by Somatheeram · 2025-04-04 · 8 replies
Hi there! Next October, I’m planning a family trip to Kerala (4 adults and 2 kids) and I’m looking for a car with a driver for this 2-week journey.
Camera Fee at Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve, India
by Kaerlagad · 2025-03-23 · 5 replies
Hi,

Does anyone have recent info on the camera fee amount at Tadoba-Moharli? We spent 8 days there in the second half of February, and the local tour operator (The Wild Cat Eyes) collected 2000 rupees per camera per safari without any receipt—totaling 240,000 rupees (~265 €) for 12 safaris (9 in core zones and 3 in buffer zones). The signs at the park entrance listed 250 rupees, and the tour operator ignored our requests for an official park receipt.

Thanks in advance! Pk
Warm January in Kerala (and a bit of Karnataka)
by Yan55 · 2025-03-11 · 43 replies
Hi everyone, We're back in India for the 7th time (for the other trips, check here: https://www.unendroitoualler.fr/asie/) ... But this time, no more exploring or trekking! With age, we're just spending a quiet month in southern India, a country we particularly love... Our journey starts in Kovalam, then Monroe Island, Varkala, Kochi, Kannur, Udupi, and finally, as in recent years, Gokarna. No problem getting around—there’s the train all along the coast...

Night in Trivandrum

Prepaid taxi to the « Safire Residency », where we stayed last year. This hotel is still just as nice and welcoming (980 INR). Then, dinner at the restaurant « Ariya Niwas » where we enjoyed those delicious dosas again! (We missed them!)

From Delhi to Agra and the extraordinary stay in Chhattisgarh
by Aleph240758 · 2025-03-10 · 66 replies
My train to Mathura is at 2 PM, and we’ll arrive an hour late—all good. I booked a hotel on booking, but unfortunately, it’s really far from the ghats. Walking there is out of the question—what a shame. The hotel itself is fine, and there are several restaurants right across the street, which will be handy for dinner. This won’t be an exception, though—starting at 10 PM, they must wake up because I can hear them talking loudly, and music is playing along. My room faces the entrance, so it’s going to be tough. At midnight, I ask them to lower the volume, but they don’t listen. By 1 AM, I lose my temper, and this time, everything stops. Finally, I can get some sleep—until 4 AM, when they start up again for a little while before quiet returns until 6 AM. But when do they sleep? The noise never seems to bother them—it’s unbelievable, and I’m finding it harder and harder to tolerate. It makes a huge difference. The next morning, as I leave, they tell me they’ll give me another room for the following night. Oh, two nights like that wouldn’t be possible—I’m exhausted. I head out to explore the ghats and take a rickshaw, which I share with a family, to Vrindavan, a city of temples dedicated to Krishna. I visit several while wandering through the lively streets, surrounded by a crowd of devotees. By 1 PM, I’m near the Bankey Bihari Temple, but I can’t go in—it just closed. Nearby, there are restaurants, so I take the opportunity to grab my usual aloo paratha with a lassi.





The work women do here is incredibly hard, and their pay must be miserable.



I want to leave Vrindavan for Govardhan. Two young guys on a motorcycle in front of the temple approach me, and the driver offers to take me part of the way. I’m pretty skeptical, but he insists, and I eventually agree. I didn’t fully understand what was happening. Once on the bike, his friend hops on too, and suddenly I’m sandwiched between them for a multi-kilometer ride—*travel Indian-style*. We quickly drop off the friend, and I breathe easier for the rest of the trip. At an intersection, he stops—Govardhan is straight ahead, but to get to his village, he needs to turn right. We wait for the bus for a few minutes, and he flags it down so I can hop on and continue my journey. What an adventure.





the neighbor with its beautiful dome.

Any info about Kollegal and Tiruvannamalai? India
by Fanindia · 2025-03-09 · 4 replies
Hi there,

I’m thinking of heading to Tamil Nadu and Karnataka in early 2026.

Two places I’m curious about: Tiruvannamalai (Tamil Nadu) and Kollegal (Karnataka).

For Tiruvannamalai, I’ve already found quite a bit of info on this forum, but the most recent posts are from 2018. Has anyone been there more recently? My plan is to stay for about a week, book a guesthouse, visit the big Shiva temple, Ramana Maharshi’s ashram, and the caves in the mountain. Any other spots in this town you’d recommend? Would you happen to know a nice guesthouse (preferably around 1500 rupees, doesn’t need to be near the ashram)?

As for Kollegal, I’m not finding much info. And I’m stuck on this permit issue for staying in the town. Can anyone fill me in?

Thanks for your help!
Moving to New Delhi
by Migratorybir · 2025-03-04 · 3 replies
Hi there,

I’m thinking about moving to New Delhi. Could you tell me more about your experience living in the city? I’ve heard a lot about the severe pollution, in particular.

Thanks so much!
Ladakh: Is it possible to sleep near Hanle? (India)
by MG42 · 2025-02-23 · 13 replies
Hi everyone, I’ve browsed this forum a lot about Ladakh and haven’t found answers to my questions... so here’s my post. I’m heading there next July with a friend for a solid ten days of cycling (no e-bikes) in Ladakh. The flight to Leh is booked for both of us and our bikes. I’ve got my route planned out pretty precisely; the main goal is to climb Umling La, which is currently the world’s highest motorable road at 5,798 m. We’re also planning to tackle 3 or 4 other passes over 5,000 m, including Photila, just next door at a little over 5,500 m.

I’ve read accounts from Europeans saying it’s impossible for foreigners to spend a night in Hanle... that the closest accommodation to the Chinese border would be in Nyoma. What do you think about that?

Also, some say the road between Hanle and Chushul (the one via Tsaga) is off-limits to non-Indians... Is the parallel route, the one via Mahé and Kaksang La (5,400 m), open to foreigners?

Is the road along Pangong Lake (the one through Merak and Man) also off-limits to foreigners?

Thanks for your feedback!
New Walks from Jodhpur to Narnaul (Feb 24)
by Aleph240758 · 2025-02-21 · 84 replies
I’ve been busy—here’s another travel journal on Rajasthan, with some new discoveries as always.

Thursday, January 25: I left home at 4:30 AM and headed to Barcelona airport. The roads weren’t blocked by farmers yet, so I made the trip without any issues. I arrived at the airport at 7:10 AM, called Parkvia, and someone picked up my car 15 minutes later. All that was left was to check in my luggage. My Etihad flight was at 10:25 AM, which gave me time for breakfast. We landed in Abu Dhabi at 7:30 PM. The flight to Delhi was at 10:15 PM, the transfer went smoothly without any stress, and we arrived in Delhi at 3:00 AM. I couldn’t waste any time upon arrival because I had a flight to Jodhpur at 6:55 AM. I got to customs, and what a nice surprise—the hall was empty. I went through immediately, had my passport and visa checked, and everything was fine. I grabbed my bag quickly and looked for the transfer to T2, which is outside. You have to walk along the taxi parking lot and take the long corridors—it’s well signposted, and the transfer took 10 minutes. At first, I was a little stressed, not knowing how long customs would take, but in the end, I was early for my 6:55 AM flight. I’m even glad I booked this one, as it got me to Jodhpur at 8:20 AM.

When I arrived, I took an auto-rickshaw to Jodhpur Palace GH, which I’d booked on Booking. The welcome was nice, and I was given a room right away. I was hoping to rest a bit, but unfortunately, it was very noisy. I settled in, took a shower, and was ready to go out and explore the city. The owner stopped me as I was leaving and told me I had to change rooms—I had to repack my bag before heading out. He showed me the way to the clock tower, which is about a 15-minute walk away.

A market lines the street leading to the tower, and the traffic is intense.



I set off in search of the stepwells and Gulab Sagar, a large basin with three water jets and a great view of Mehrangarh Fort. And yes, more baoris!



Toorji Ka Jhalra Bawdi isn’t far away. It’s a meet-up spot for tourists, with restaurants and terraces lining the area. The place is nice.





I looked for Mahila Bagh Ka Jhalra, went around in circles a bit, and finally found it right across from Gulab Sagar, where I’d already been. It’s not in good condition—it’s a shame it hasn’t been restored.



I went back through the clock tower area, found a currency exchange with a good rate, and booked my train tickets for the whole trip. The street was lively, with heavy traffic.





I was tired and headed back to the guesthouse. When I got there, I realized my phone wasn’t showing the right time, which gave me a chance to rest before going out for dinner. The Indigo restaurant is nearby and will be perfect.
Cheap hotel in New Delhi
by Joycegwada · 2025-02-19 · 10 replies
My friend and I are arriving in New Delhi on March 4th at 12:05 AM. Could anyone recommend a decent and affordable hotel? Is 20 € the going rate? Thanks!
Tips for a trip to Ladakh (India)
by Dewa · 2025-02-15 · 2 replies
I'm planning a short stay in Ladakh from August 12th to 23rd, 2026. Delhi to Leh to start. I don’t have all the details yet, but I’m planning to visit Thiksey Monastery and other monasteries. Accommodation: guesthouse at Thiksey Monastery Accommodation: Nyerma Nunnery ETC....

Everything needs to be planned and organized. I’d love to hear your suggestions and experiences.

Thanks, Dewa
Denied boarding due to visa with the wrong date
by Gingers · 2025-02-09 · 41 replies
Today I ended up being denied boarding at CDG. I booked the trip through a physical travel agency with no assistance for the visa application. I applied in plenty of time and got the approval. Except I put the 9th (the day I left France) as the date instead of the 10th, which is the arrival date in India. That’s what caused the denial. I’m guessing I don’t have any recourse? Thanks for your replies.
Unusual trip to Rajasthan November 2022
by Aleph240758 · 2025-02-08 · 101 replies
Friday, November 4 My flight Barcelona - Abu Dhabi - Delhi went smoothly, it’s on time, and here I am back in India after 3 long years. As I step off the plane, we head toward customs. It’s 3 AM, I’m tired but happy. The huge customs hall is below ground level and buzzing with people who’ve just arrived. In the end, they’re well organized—Indians to the left, foreigners to the right, and all along the hall, the customs officers’ posts, who remain very zen despite the crowd. It took me less than 2 hours to get out of the airport, which was pretty quick. For this return trip, I got in touch with a driver from the "Lovers of India" group who was supposed to take me from the airport to Udaipur, passing through non-touristy villages like I love. This French-speaking driver had convinced me to travel by car, which was supposed to make moving from village to village easier. Two or three days before departure, I receive a message from the driver saying he was sick with a cold and sending another driver, his very kind brother who knows Rajasthan well but doesn’t speak French. I’m a bit disappointed by this message and doubtful about the driver’s sincerity, but I don’t have time to find another driver, so I stick to my plans, though I’m not at ease. At the exit, the driver hasn’t arrived, and I wait half an hour before seeing him show up with a big smile, "Namaste." We don’t waste time and head to the car, which is clean and new. We get to know each other in the car and hit the road toward Alwar. Along the way, we stop for lunch and to taste my first masala chai, which wakes up my taste buds.



I doze off during the drive, and we arrive at the Atlantic Hotel in Alwar at 10:30 AM. My room is on the ground floor, and I settle in quickly. The Wi-Fi isn’t working, but the staff do everything they can to fix it. At noon, Gajender, the driver, suggests visiting the Qila Fort, which is on the heights of Alwar. The fort is closed for restoration, but safari tours are offered—jeep, guide, driver, and visit for 1600 Rs.



We follow the great wall, which is impressive—the second largest in India and the third in the world.



We spot peacocks and monkeys.





The guide shows me an old stepwell lost in nature. It’s always my thing to check out these baoris, which can be stunning, but this one isn’t anything special. We arrive at the palace overlooking the city.



We walk around the palace, and I discover another stepwell that’s not worth lingering over.

The tour is over, and I had a great time despite the fatigue. We head back down to Alwar, near the City Palace, which has been turned into administrative offices. Gaju (the driver’s nickname) finds a parking spot near a dhaba where we have lunch (paneer masala, chapatis, chai)—it’s delicious. With my energy restored, we head to the palace. On the top floor is a museum that I visit.



At the exit of the museum, we have to go back down and walk around the palace to get to the Moosi Maharani Chhatri. I’ve been here once before and really liked it, and the place is still the same—calm and relaxing.



"This monument is the most artistic in Alwar and also the most royal, filled with fascinating history. Maharaja Vinay Singh of Alwar built this two-story cenotaph in 1815 in memory of his father, Maharaja Bakhtawar Singh. It’s also known as Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri, named after the king’s mistress, who performed sati upon his death. After the sati, she was accepted as the king’s wife. It’s an elegant monument, shaped like a flower and built with a mix of brown sandstone and white marble. The first floor is made of sandstone, while the upper floor and the chhatris (cenotaphs) are in white marble. Its sculpted pavilion has dome-shaped arches with intricate lace-like and exquisite floral patterns. There are complex motifs that shine brightly in the sunlight. The colorful circular ceiling is an important part of Moosi Maharani Ki Chhatri and is adorned with faded gold-leaf paintings of mythological figures and scenes. The footprints of Maharaja and Moosi Rani are engraved in marble inside the cenotaph, and locals pay their respects to them."



Near the chhatri, there’s a large water reservoir with a magnificent view. The place is peaceful and relaxing, and I stay here for a while, contemplating and daydreaming before heading back to the hotel for some well-deserved rest. The Wi-Fi is working now. I’m the only foreign guest, and since my room is near the entrance, I’ll be well taken care of throughout my stay.

Discovering South India: Tamil Nadu and Kerala
by Kate · 2025-02-07 · 142 replies
Hello everyone!

We're off! After exploring the north, the four friends have now discovered the south. We’re excited to share this new travel journal, dedicated to our little group and our strong friendship, written by Richard and illustrated with Kate’s photos. I’ll chime in from time to time with practical tips.

First of all, a big thank you to everyone on VoyageForum who helped us plan this trip. It would’ve been quite different if we’d just relied on guidebooks.

The itinerary lasted just over 3 weeks: Mahabalipuram, Pondicherry, Thanjavur, the Chettinad region, Madurai, Munnar, Munroe Island, Cochin, and Chennai. We traveled by train, taxi, and private car with a driver, took a domestic flight, and stayed in guesthouses, Airbnb apartments, and hotels. For each of us, including flights, the total budget barely reached 2000 €, and we didn’t hold back—knowing we avoid resorts and love street food and small Indian restaurants.

Budget hotel in New Delhi
by MochiMochu · 2025-02-05 · 4 replies
Hi everyone,

I’m not sure if this is a good idea... but I’m throwing a message in a bottle out there again...

I’m looking for a hotel in New Delhi for the end of the month (just one night—for a layover). I’m wary of scams on the usual sites. You find all sorts of prices and huge discounts... but reviews on other platforms scream "scam" about those same hotels. Not that I’m not up for adventure, but if I can avoid making an avoidable mistake, I’d rather learn and discover with kind people than through unscrupulous tourist touts. At the same time, maybe this’ll be helpful to others too.

Is a budget of 40 € (+/-) doable? 50 € (+/-)? Does that sound reasonable? What do you think? Your experiences would really help me out. Thanks, friends.

Looking forward to reading your replies.

Warm regards to all
India: Taxi fare from Delhi to Rishikesh
by JacquesFss · 2025-02-03 · 2 replies
I need to get to Rishikesh (staying with a local) from Indira Gandhi Airport in Delhi next Sunday. Does anyone know the average fare for long-distance taxis on this route? The trip takes about 4-5 hours. Thanks! 😊
One month in India in December 2025
by Brodalie · 2025-02-01 · 6 replies
Hi there,

I’m a traveler who’s really passionate about India, and I’m planning to go back for a month in December 2025. I know the country and its culture well.

I travel as a backpacker—light, staying in small guest houses, and getting around by bus and train.

This time, I’d love to explore Goa and the surrounding region, including some less touristy states nearby.

I’m looking for a female travel companion, max 45 years old (around my age), who’s used to backpacking, resourceful, and ideally already familiar with India (to avoid culture shock).

Feel free to reach out via private message.

See you soon!

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