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Back from Sri Lanka: itinerary and hikes
by Brunomoncel · 2025-08-14 · 9 replies
Hi there, We’re just back from a three-week trip to Sri Lanka, from July 15 to August 11. A few random tips—if you’ve got more specific questions, just ask. If we know the answer, we’ll be happy to help!

What an amazing country! I had a small bias at first, wasn’t totally convinced, but that disappeared fast. Stunning coastal and mountain landscapes, cultural visits, hikes, and such a warm welcome.

Here’s our itinerary in order: Colombo-Anuradhapura-Trincomalee-Polonnaruwa-Dambulla-Sigiriya-Kandy-Haputale-Ella-Tangalle-Galle-Negombo.

Whenever we can, we travel only by public transport, and in Sri Lanka, it’s totally doable. Trains, of course, and buses all the time—everywhere and super cheap. We’d head to the bus station to get a seat, but they also stop along the route. From the airport to Colombo Fort, take bus 187—it’s parked on the right as you exit.

Weather-wise, despite it being the less favorable season for some regions, we only had two half-days of rain. That was one of our worries, but maybe we just got lucky.

For hiking, beyond the well-known climbs in all the guidebooks and blogs (which are great too), there’s a long-distance trail in the mountain region (Kandy, Ella, etc.) that’s really well marked. It’s called the Pekoe Trail, and there’s an app you can download (Pekoe Trail) that gives you the full route and details for each stage—25 in total, I think, ranging from 9 to 15 km. We did 4 of them, not in a row, but starting from our different accommodations. They’re not loops, but you can always find a bus, train, or tuk-tuk to get back or to reach the end of a stage and return. The landscapes are beautiful, the encounters plentiful, and tourists are rare—which is nice sometimes.

Happy travels!
Car rental and driving in Sri Lanka: my experience
by GietCh · 2025-08-13 · 2 replies
For once, I'm sharing my experience after benefiting from other travelers' tips to take the plunge and rent a car (without a driver).

First, don’t hesitate! (Unless you just got your license the day before.) The roads are good—even very good in the north (the situation seems to have improved a lot). Driving is "Italian-style"—you can fit 3 or even 4 cars on a two-lane road. Sri Lankans aren’t suicidal (I wouldn’t have done it in India, though...). No issues with police checkpoints: we were never stopped in 25 days (unlike Sri Lankans...). These days, with Google and connectivity, you can’t get lost. Plan short trips (for us, it was between 2 and 4 hours with Google Maps estimates). Price: for a basic car, between 23 and 25 € per day, and gas isn’t expensive. I didn’t rent a car in Colombo (we used the PickMe app for tuk-tuks or car transfers with luggage). I also left the car parked in Kandy—it was a bit more intense there with narrow hillside streets and motorbikes/tuk-tuks driving a little wild. Big advantage: automatic transmission.

For me, aside from the first intersection, no stress—if you’re tired or not feeling it, you can drive as slowly as you want (unlike in France). I also drove and overtook like the Sri Lankans naturally.

Basic tips (but if you’re a driver, they’re obvious): - The bus is the boss: you’ve got to yield. - Unlike Sri Lankans, avoid overtaking without visibility. - Stay aware of your surroundings: cows, dogs, monitor lizards, pedestrians... so if there’s something, slow down!

I caught myself driving up to 90 km/h without realizing it but then slowed down (speed limits: 70 on rural roads, 100 on highways).

Of course, you’ll need an international driver’s permit or a temporary Sri Lankan license (I had both, but no one asked for them).

Renting a tuk-tuk was trendy among young travelers (I don’t get the appeal for a long trip—maybe 2 or 3 days since they’re slow, not that economical, more dangerous, and you can’t leave your stuff inside. Plus, the passenger sits behind the driver, and we had temps up to 37°C).

For a car, it’s great because it makes you independent: schedules, routes, supermarkets, restaurants...

Hope my feedback helps! !
Tips for getting to Ella from Tissamaharama: local bus or private driver?
by Mounette74 · 2025-08-08 · 2 replies
Hi there,

I can't figure out how to get to Ella from Tissamaharama by bus. Could someone help me out? There are four of us, each with a travel bag, and we prefer taking local buses if possible. Do we need to book a car with a driver instead, and if so, what’s the cost? Do you know any reliable companies?

Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!

Mounette74
Renting a car in Sri Lanka, how to do it..?
by Gefanj · 2025-07-06 · 2 replies
Hi there. We’re leaving for Sri Lanka in just a few days for three weeks. After some thought, we’ve decided to rent a car with a driver.

I’m a bit overwhelmed by all the ads, and I’m feeling a little lost about booking confidently from France... Especially since I’m more used to going through big international rental companies. What worries me most is the insurance and the quality/safety of the car—more than the languages spoken or how friendly the driver is.

Do any of you have experiences to share to help me out, please? Thanks in advance! 😊
Late arrival at Negombo Airport
by 83JL · 2025-05-27 · 6 replies
Hi everyone,

We’re planning our 3-week trip to Sri Lanka from July 31 to August 21, 2025. Our itinerary is coming together, but we could use some advice for our arrival. Our flight lands at 2:40 AM. What should we do? Book a hotel near the airport? Or in Negombo? Head straight to Colombo? What about currency exchange offices at 3 AM? And what about getting a SIM card?

Thanks in advance for your tips or firsthand experiences!

Have a great day.
What a magnificent country Sri Lanka is!
by Nikol30 · 2025-05-22 · 8 replies
We’ve just returned from 17 days in Sri Lanka, our heads full of memories, and I’ll always cherish the smiles of the Sri Lankan people... what a welcoming nation... so incredibly generous... everything we’ve lost in the West!

The days flew by so quickly! A mix of culture... discoveries... safaris... encounters... visits... hikes... wildlife and flora... Sri Lankan gastronomy (a delight for the taste buds), and fresh fruit juices... unbelievably good!

How lucky we were to cross paths with Nishantha, our French-speaking driver/guide. An excellent driver, incredibly calm, very attentive, and above all, passionate about his country and Buddhist culture. Through his stories, he managed to "take us along with him"... I learned so much about the history of Sri Lanka and Buddhism.

Thank you, Nishantha, for all those moments we shared together—during hikes, with locals, at the Buddhist temple... and for letting us attend a dance performance and a "puja" ceremony at the Temple of the Tooth in Kandy.

Without you, our trip wouldn’t have been the same...

Feel free to message me privately if you’d like his contact details.
Visiting Yala Park (Sri Lanka)
by Sevi27 · 2025-03-22 · 3 replies
Hi there,

We’re planning to visit Yala Park for half a day. Could anyone tell me which block is the most interesting to visit, given that we’re coming from Tangalle?

Thanks for your reply.
Choosing between Jaffna and the east coast in April (Sri Lanka)
by Jlucetmjo · 2025-02-23 · 4 replies
Hi there. We’re spending a month in Sri Lanka in March, and we’ll have one week left after leaving Polonnaruwa. We’re torn between spending it in the Jaffna region or on the east coast between Batticaloa and Trincomalee. We’re divers, so the east coast appeals to us for snorkeling, beaches, and lagoons—but it seems like late March might not be the best time for that coast. What do you think? As for Jaffna, the culture of the region, its more authentic feel since it’s less touristy, and the offshore islands all appeal to us too—but it seems far from the rest of the country and harder to access. We have to choose because we won’t be able to visit both sides, and I’d love to hear your thoughts. Thanks, Marie
Which safari in Sri Lanka?
by Lolo13500 · 2025-02-19 · 5 replies
Hi there! I need your advice :) We’ll be in Sri Lanka in April, a group of 9 adults. Which safari would you recommend, please? Thanks for your replies! Lolo13500
Do you need a license to rent a scooter in Sri Lanka?
by Jlucetmjo · 2025-02-13 · 7 replies
Hi there, we’re spending March in Sri Lanka, and on several blogs travelers mention they’ve rented scooters or mopeds. On government info sites, it seems they say you need a Sri Lankan license to rent these vehicles. Have any of you run into this kind of issue? Thanks, Marie
Sri Lankan rupees to exchange
by HerveR · 2025-02-08 · 11 replies
Hi there, Back from Sri Lanka, we have some local currency left. This could be useful for you. Here’s what I’m offering: 1 x 5000-rupee note 3 x 1000-rupee notes 2 x 500-rupee notes 3 x 100-rupee notes 2 x 50-rupee notes 6 x 20-rupee notes That’s a total of 9520 Sri Lankan rupees, or 31 €. This way, you can start your trip without having to withdraw money right away at the airport and without paying any fees. For reference, here are some typical costs: Bottle of water: 130–160 Rs, tuk-tuk ride: 100–500 Rs, bus trip: 50–200 Rs, meal with a drink: 1500–2500 Rs. Possible to send in an envelope.
Visa for transit in India en route to Sri Lanka
by Sigalice · 2025-02-05 · 19 replies
Hi there,

I’ve been reading conflicting info about whether an Indian visa might be required for a few-hour layover in Mumbai.

Do we need anything besides the Sri Lankan ETA if we’re just transiting through India without leaving Terminal 2 at the airport? We’re flying from Brussels via Frankfurt and then Mumbai with Lufthansa.

Thanks so much—I’m totally lost here! 😅
Leeches in the Knuckles (Sri Lanka)
by Sigalice · 2025-01-17 · 7 replies
Hi there, We’d planned a hike in the Knuckles at the end of February, but everything I’m reading about leeches is freaking me out—I know I wouldn’t handle having one on me (call me a wimp if you want 😅). Is it really that bad? Plus, it sounds like a lot of tiring road just for a day trip. What do you recommend? Thanks so much! 😊
Kandy to Ella Train (Sri Lanka)
by Dab02 · 2025-01-08 · 4 replies
Hi there, It's really tough to book seats for early February. After trying multiple times on the official online sites, everything seems to be fully booked already. Hiring a taxi is an option, but even then, there aren’t many choices—agencies prioritize tour packages. Do you have any tips for making the trip from Kandy to Ella? Thanks! Have a great day.
Are 100 Euro bills accepted at exchange offices in Sri Lanka?
by Dab02 · 2025-01-07 · 1 reply
Hi, Are 100 € bills accepted at exchange offices in Sri Lanka? Thanks for your replies.
Sri Lanka Trip Report – December 2024
by Bascolanda64 · 2025-01-06 · 12 replies
Hi there, I just got back from a trip to Sri Lanka from December 18th to January 1st with 2 adults and 2 kids (12 years old). If it helps, here’s my itinerary.

We left on December 18th from Madrid with Qatar Airways. No complaints. I booked my tickets back in March for 800 € per person. (I flew from Madrid because I live near the Spanish border and was too worried about strikes in France.) We arrived on December 19th at 4 PM (local time). Before leaving France, I’d booked a taxi through MyTransfer for 59 € to Sigiriya. A van was waiting for us at the airport exit. A never-ending 3-hour drive to Sigiriya. We stayed at Samana Guesthouse—very simple, clean, with a pool and an excellent Sri Lankan breakfast. Shower and straight to bed.

Friday, December 20th: Beautiful weather, but very humid and hot. We visited Lion Rock (36 € for adults) and then Pidurangala. I loved both sites—they’re a must-do in my opinion. Spent the late afternoon by the pool.

Saturday, December 21st: Another gorgeous day. The guesthouse manager offered us a free 2-hour tuk-tuk tour. We first visited a lake, rice fields, the temple, and the Sigiriya market, plus the usual tourist trap—the botanical garden (no pressure to buy anything at the end). Then we took a tuk-tuk to Dambulla Temple, the Golden Buddha, and the wholesale market.

Sunday, December 22nd: Still beautiful weather. I’d booked a taxi for 8 AM. We did all the long trips by taxi to save time. I’d ask for prices from 2 or 3 WhatsApp taxi agencies 2 days or the day before—super responsive, always got replies within 5 minutes. We headed to Ella (4-hour drive) for 22,000 LKR. Arrived in the afternoon at Rest Full Homestay—a small, family-run guesthouse. Clean, cozy, and an amazing Sri Lankan breakfast. In the afternoon, we went to Nine Arches Bridge. It was a Sunday, a Sri Lankan holiday, so it was *packed*—mostly locals and very few white tourists! Even though it was crowded, it was cool because it was all Sri Lankans. We waited an hour for the train. It’s worth seeing, but honestly, I didn’t think it was that amazing. Then we headed to the station to check if we needed to book tickets for the train to Haputale—turns out, no.

Monday, December 23rd: Beautiful weather. We hiked Ella Rock—a gorgeous trek. The final stretch is steep but shaded, so it wasn’t as tough as I’d read. The whole hike is stunning from start to finish. We saw the train pass twice (one blue, one red) and lots of women picking tea. After that, we did Little Adam’s Peak. It’s not hard, but it was *packed* with tourists—meh. Luckily, at the top, you can walk a bit farther (down one side and back up) to get some space to yourself. What I *didn’t* like was the commercial vibe at the big café/restaurant with a pool at the entrance of Little Adam’s Peak. Loud music, all that money being made right next to little souvenir stands run by Sri Lankans or tea-picking women. Felt off. Ended the day buying souvenirs at one of the few shops we found during the trip.

Tuesday, December 24th: Beautiful weather. Took the train to Haputale. We got to the station 30 minutes before the 9:30 AM train. We could’ve taken 2nd or 3rd class—I went with 2nd (160 LKR per person). It was crowded, but we managed to get seats—first 2, then 3. Only a 1-hour ride, but I *loved* it—windows and doors open the whole time. Arrived in Haputale around 11 AM, and the mist was already rolling in. We walked to our guesthouse, The Mist Holiday Bungalow. Simple but clean, with a great view of the tea plantations. The owner’s wife is Vietnamese and used to work for French tour operators, so her French is still pretty good—helpful for us since our English is terrible. They booked us a tuk-tuk for 4:45 AM the next day (2,000 LKR) to Lipton’s Seat. Spent the afternoon wandering around Haputale. Not much charm, but there’s a nice fruit and veggie market and a short walk through the tea plantations.

Wednesday, December 25th: Beautiful weather. The tuk-tuk was on time to take us to Lipton’s Seat. We were the first ones there—the sky was just starting to turn pink. In the end, only about ten of us watched the sunrise. The guesthouse had packed us breakfast, and we walked back down (half on the road, half through the plantations). Didn’t see any tea picking since it was Christmas, but the walk was still incredible. We took detours through villages full of kids. After that, we visited the tea factory. The tour was really interesting, and we took the bus back down to Haputale. Such a great moment—whole families were heading to mass, dressed up and made up. All so beautiful.

At noon, we left for Udawalawe National Park. Taxi for 14,000 LKR. Stayed at River Inn Safari Cottage. *Warning*: It’s the same place as Eagle Safari Cottage. I don’t recommend it. We’d always stayed with families before, but here it was just staff—totally different vibe. The pool was nice but not very clean (water was murky). The bungalow was big and fine, but it was brand new—so new the asphalt floor wasn’t fully dry. It’s in the middle of nowhere, so we had to eat on-site. Couldn’t leave a review on Booking because they never confirmed we’d stayed, and they canceled our reservation the next day.

Thursday, December 26th: Beautiful weather. I’d booked a safari through the hotel for 5:30–10 AM for 54 USD. Honestly, yes, there are a lot of jeeps, but it was great. The kids loved it—we saw everything there was to see. Left by taxi at 11:30 AM for Welligama (12,000 LKR). We didn’t stay in Welligama city but at Coconut Beach, between Welligama and Midigama. *Total crush* on the guesthouse: Sky Mountain Café with View. Such a lovely family. The mom makes amazing meals at reasonable prices. The view from the hill over the sea is unreal. Spent the afternoon walking along the beach.

Friday, December 27th: Beautiful weather. My kids are surfers. Unfortunately, there weren’t any boards their size to rent at Coconut, so we took a tuk-tuk to Welligama Bay (1,000 LKR). They surfed from 8 AM to 5 PM—rental was 5,000 LKR for the day. Meanwhile, we walked the beach and swam. Water was 29°C.

Saturday, December 28th: Beautiful weather, rain from 4 PM until midnight. Same surf day. They were so well-behaved the whole trip, so this was their reward.

Sunday, December 29th: Beautiful weather. Beach day at Coconut. *Warning*: It’s a reef break. For surfers, there are three spots (Coconut Left, Middle, and Right). The boys bodysurfed (with fins) all morning, and at 1 PM, we took the bus to Hikkaduwa. Stayed at Hotel Universal Beach. Nothing special—right on the water, but the rooms were dark even though they were clean. The manager was super nice, but the rest was meh, and breakfast was mediocre compared to what we’d had before (2 eggs and 3 slices of toast). Plus, it was late—8 AM. First impression of Hikkaduwa wasn’t great—way too many Russians for our taste.

Monday, December 30th: Beautiful weather. Spent the whole day exploring. Turtle Beach, then the other side of the beach (toward Galle) near the fishing port. The beach there is much wider, with scattered hotels and super quiet. It’s beautiful—I should’ve booked somewhere in that area. Ended up having a great day away from the crowds.

Tuesday, December 31st: Overcast, then beautiful, rain at 4 PM. Had to end the year (and the trip) with some surf. Rented boards for the kids (3,000 LKR per board for the day). Bad luck—the waves were on a reef break but small. Not great for them, but no big deal. They still got out of the water by 2 PM. Walked the beach (which is gorgeous), had a juice, and went for a swim. Then back to surfing in the rain at 4 PM.

Wednesday, January 1st: Left by taxi at 5 AM (18,000 LKR). Flight at 10 AM. Arrived in Madrid at 8 PM.
The Pekoe Trail (Sri Lanka): possible to do independently?
by Velo69 · 2024-12-28 · 1 reply
Hi there, we’re heading to Sri Lanka in early February for 15 days. We’d like to do a few days of trekking and thought we’d need an agency and a guide, but we’ve heard about the Pekoe Trail—a long-distance trail that’s supposedly well-marked. Is that accurate? Is it doable on our own? I’d love to hear from anyone who’s familiar with it. Thanks!
What currency should I use to pay for hotels in Sri Lanka?
by Cannelle2008 · 2024-12-12 · 10 replies
Hi there, I have another question: Should I bring dollars since hotels on Booking are listed in dollars... or should I exchange my euros for rupees? Thanks for your experience!
3 weeks in April 2025: Sri Lanka, Nepal, or New Zealand – anyone interested?
by Brodalie · 2024-11-30 · 0 replies
Hi, I already posted an ad for April for Cape Verde, the Canary Islands, etc., but it’s possible I’ll have more time off than expected and could leave for 3 weeks starting April 19. In that case, I’m considering Sri Lanka, which has great weather across much of the country, or New Zealand, where it’s autumn and everything’s cheaper with still-pleasant weather. Nepal could also be an option, even though it apparently starts raining there. I’d be available for 3 weeks starting April 19, give or take. Open to other far-flung destinations with good weather. Looking for a female travel companion. I travel backpacker-style, on a tight budget, using local transport or renting a car (for New Zealand, for example). Feel free to message me privately.
Sri Lanka by train: start in the North or the South?
by Cannelle2008 · 2024-11-28 · 8 replies
Hi there, I’m heading to Sri Lanka for a month on January 6th. I’d love to know whether it’s more interesting to start in the north or the south of the country, especially for the beauty of the landscapes—by train in particular. Thanks for your help!

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