Results for "Tulle+|+127"

Zou! is the public transport service for the Région Sud Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur. We're Canadian and our plan was to hike the Mercantour Great Crossing (GR52). After landing in Nice, we needed to find transport to the trailhead in the village of Entraunes. It took us two months to figure out that the only service available was Zou!'s shuttle, and—after countless calls (not easy from Canada)—to actually speak to someone at the company. Even though they confirmed our reservation, on the day of the trip, they weren’t waiting for us. We ended up stranded in Guillaumes because the driver hadn’t been "informed" that he was supposed to go all the way to the terminus that day. In 40 years of traveling the world, I’ve never encountered a situation where customer service was this nonexistent and access to a region this difficult. I just wanted to share this experience to warn you if you’re planning to rely on public transport to reach the GR52...

I’m traveling with my Quebec-registered vehicle, which only has one license plate, but several European countries require two. Can I still drive with just one plate?

Hi there,

We’re planning to drive to Senegal by car. We’re a little nervous because it’ll be our first time making the trip with a car that isn’t ours. We’re doing the trip to deliver it to its owner. Has anyone here done this before? What documents will we need?

Thanks in advance for your tips!

Hi there, we’re planning our trip to the North Cape this summer. We bought a new vehicle for it. Unfortunately, the registration document is still being processed, and the delay seems long—I don’t think I’ll have it in time for our departure... I have the transfer documents, insurance in my name, and all the supporting paperwork, but not the registration document. So my question is: does the ferry company require the registration document *mandatorily* when boarding in Denmark or not? Thanks for any insights...

Hi, I’m traveling with my 6-year-old daughter this summer, and since her father hasn’t seen her in 3 months, he won’t be able to sign a travel consent form for me. He’s been completely out of touch since early March, and I have no idea where he is. We’re heading to Montreal for 2 weeks in early July—I have both the outbound and return tickets. Am I required to provide a signed consent letter from the father, even though she’s traveling with a parent who has legal custody? If I don’t have one but can prove my good faith—explaining that he’s completely unreachable—will that be enough? Thanks for your help!

I found out that in Namibia, at a camp in the Hoanib River bed... a luxurious camp with no fences but all the comfort, including "facilities" inside... If my information is correct. An experienced "tourist" was killed by a lion at night. This person had left their tent in the middle of the night to answer a call of nature (even though all the amenities were inside the tent; "tent" is actually an understatement for this kind of "accommodation"). The other "campers" and staff intervened, but it was too late. In this region, there are desert lions. In such a hostile environment, these lions tend to look for the "easy option," so they attack livestock and get closer to humans (opportunity)... There’s an entire program to protect lions, local populations, and their livestock, including fitting lions with tracking collars. Why am I writing all this? In Southern Africa (AFS), in many places, you can find yourself in areas with no fences or protections, whether in private or public camps. There are safety rules that are clearly laid out. Only get out of your vehicle in designated areas, and always keep in mind that... wild animals could still be nearby. Even at a picnic stop in Kruger National Park (KNP)... Don’t leave your tent or the immediate area at night... and even during the day, stay alert. That’s also why children under 8, 10, or even 16 are often not allowed. Even if it seems safe... you never know! Absolute and strict adherence to these rules is essential! ESSENTIAL! Personally, I’ve seen lions very close to the "lounge" of a lodge in Addo... with people having breakfast outside, completely unfazed. I remember that lodge in Maputaland where a tourist who didn’t follow the rules was killed by a lion... (in this case, the lion was identified and killed because it might have returned and also shown its buddies how easy hunting there was). Another case where a mom decided her child was old enough to sleep alone in their chalet... and the child wandered out at night... Or those lodges where you’re escorted even for 20 meters by an armed ranger... and not just armed with a slingshot. Lodges where... YOU DON’T GO OUT AT NIGHT... if you have a problem, you have a whistle, a foghorn, and you wait... That lodge where lions approached the camp and all the staff were on high alert... Those places where you could hear the lions’ long and short calls... and the hyenas’ laughter... I could go on... And this applies to other animals too... Anyway, This little note is probably too schoolmarmish or preachy, but it’s just to remind you that safety rules are there to protect you. Never take them lightly. Never be overconfident. Ndlelanhle! !

Hello,

We’d love some tips and suggestions for a trip to India we’re planning for February 2026:

We’re a couple in our 70s based in Canada (Montreal), and we’re planning a 3-week trip to India in February 2025.

We’re looking for a moderate pace, with comfortable but authentic and immersive accommodations, and good service.

Ideally:

Northern India (Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Udaipur, Ranthambore) Southern India (Kerala): Cochin, backwaters (cruise), Munnar

Charming or traditional lodgings (haveli, guesthouse, small hotels), comfortable without being luxurious.

Travel by train where possible, and with a private driver for the rest, plus likely a domestic flight.

What do you think?

This is the place for chit-chat on this month’s theme—reflections! I’m sure you’ve got some amazing ones to share. 😄

Hi there, we’re looking at a flight from Montreal to Zurich, then Zurich to Brussels (final destination). There are two couples and two kids in our group, and the layover is listed as 50 minutes. I wanted to check if this is doable before booking...

Hello everyone, and a big THANK YOU to all the travelers who took the time to reply to my last post and tell me that doing South India in 28 days was a sweet utopia. My dear friends, you were absolutely right. After 4 days in Goa, I settled for exploring all of Karnataka and its beautiful UNESCO-listed temples, and I loved it. Kerala and Tamil Nadu will have to wait until next year when I can take 6 weeks off.

But the purpose of this post is to ask you which guide or website would be best to prepare for the BLUES TRAIL I’d like to do in September or October 2025 over a month: 3 weeks to travel the route, enjoy Nashville a bit too, and the last week to explore Louisiana. I saw that *Le Routard* has a guide on Louisiana. Where else can I find more info?

Thanks so much for your help. Take care of yourselves and happy travels. Régine

It was the start of winter; I was freezing, and the mood wasn’t exactly joyful—Ukraine, 49.3... So I self-medicated: a week in Italy to hear laughter and that melodic language, and of course, to immerse myself in beauty for a while. I was looking for a destination: Florence. The choice was biased because I wanted to revisit *Primavera* and *The Birth of Venus*. Then came the choice of airline: Vueling flies directly to Florence, but you’ve got to know how to handle Vueling—sometimes you make it to your destination, sometimes you’re left at the gate. It’s not expensive, but that’s about all it’s worth. Best to know their rules of the game. Plus, Vueling leaves from Orly, which is super easy to get to by metro. The gods were with me that day—Vueling actually got me to Florence. On arrival, the temperature was better than forecast, and I knew the days were slightly longer in Italy (and shorter in Stockholm). And the Italian language was floating in the air... I took the new tram that takes you to the heart of the city, near the great "cheesecake" that’s said to mark the superiority of the Renaissance over Europe’s sublime Gothic cathedrals. I walked around the big pastry and turned onto *my* street, Via dei Servi. Along the way, I stewed over my guilt for not admiring the sublime *Duomo*; I hoped no police had detected my rebellious, deviant mindset. I’d chosen a hotel on the stunning Piazza della Santissima Annunziata—I’ll even share its name, that’s the VF spirit: it’s the Hotel Due Fontane. And that’s the real point of this post: until Easter, you can treat yourself to a room in a very charming hotel for around 60 €, breakfast buffet included! To do this, book on Booking.com and make it clear you’ll return the next day with a new reservation at that price. You’ll have left your things in the luggage room to move into a new room in the evening. I didn’t have to play that game since the reception gave me a long-term stay at a reduced rate. The next day, the kind barista drew a perfect, beautiful flower on my cappuccino. That man was the smile and good cheer of Italy. Florence had more to offer, and this time I wasn’t being picky like I was with the big white pastry: I had a date with *Primavera* and Venus. Off to the Uffizi; the weather was decent, much warmer than Paris, and the girls were laughing. Arriving at the Uffizi: had I bought a skip-the-line ticket? What for? I walked in subito and even got the winter discount rate. You’ll agree that when visiting a museum, it doesn’t matter if it’s hot or not. When I got to Botticelli’s room, I love being alone—I have the illusion of owning two of the most beautiful paintings in the world. There was one tourist there that day. We admired *Primavera* and *The Birth of Venus* without getting in each other’s way; those young women painted so long ago show such beauty and radiate such elegance, especially in their faces. I hesitated about going to the Accademia, but David is worth a revisit. If a skip-the-line ticket is ever needed, it’s here. But no! I walked in subito! Usually, women don’t openly show their attraction, but you might hear "He’s cute" about a man. Around David, it’s amusing to see they’re not immune to the sight. Off to the Medici Chapels; entrance subita. I felt humbled by the princes’ munificence and the master’s works. Then it was time for a stroll—maybe a Mannerist painting at Santa Felicita (oh, miracle, it was open), or playing the game of comparing the two crucifixes, including Donatello’s, sipping a Spritz in a little bar with a view of the Ponte Vecchio, wandering Via Roma in the evening among the cheerful crowd and shops decked out for Christmas. Seeing the Church of Santa Maria del Carmine for its frescoes and the Italian Pantheon at Santa Croce (Napoleon’s first girlfriend is buried there). Italy, land of frescoes! Every evening, until I exhausted my pasta card, I enjoyed spaghetti on *my* Via dei Servi.

The point of this post: you can visit Florence at a very low cost, without impossible queues, and without tourist pressure, in reasonably warm weather until Easter. In May, the Due Fontane charges 220 to 250 €! For the rest, I may have rambled a bit. PS: Vueling stranded me on the way back; my punishment was staying an extra day in this incredibly welcoming city.

Hi there, Could you let me know if this itinerary is doable: 14/09: Arrival in BA at 9:45 PM 15/09 to 16/09: BA 17/09: Flight to Iguazu early in the morning + visit the falls on the Brazilian side 18/09: Visit the falls on the Argentine side 19/09: Flight to Salta + visit Salta 20/09 to 25/09: Northern + Southern Loop in 6 full days (rental car) 26/09 to 28/09: Tolar Grande 3 days (with an agency) 29/09: Flight to Puerto Madryn (arrival in the evening) 30/09: Valdes Peninsula 01/10: Valdes Peninsula + Punta Tombo + overnight bus to Bariloche 02/10 to 07/10: 6 days to see Bariloche and the surrounding area by car (what are the must-sees?) 08/10: Flight to BA 09/10: Flight to Paris at 2:40 PM

Hi there! 🙂

Once again, I’m back looking for advice

So, here’s the thing: in September, I’m planning a trip to Africa. There’ll be four of us—my husband, my 24-year-old daughter, my 20-year-old son, and me.

I’ve had this idea in my head for a while, but now it’s starting to feel real. The tricky part is that I’m on team "I organize my trip without an agency and handle things on the spot." But here’s the catch—my husband, who’s usually up for anything, doesn’t want to hear about a do-it-yourself trip. From what I’ve gathered, only Namibia allows that if I’m not mistaken. But if it’s possible in Tanzania (or maybe Kenya), I think I could convince him.

Anyway, here’s my first double question—more will probably follow! Can you travel without an agency in Tanzania? If not, which agency would you recommend, given that I live in Belgium?

Thanks so much in advance for your help!

Hi everyone! Any idea what the current situation is like for homestays in Russia? Any recent firsthand experiences? Thanks in advance! :)

I’m planning a journey of about 2500 km starting from San Pedro de Atacama (duration: max. 2 months). This trip, almost entirely on remote trails, promises to be an extraordinary adventure.

Highlights of the trip - Crossing the Florido Desert (during the blooming season: October 15–30) - Hiking ascents of legendary volcanoes: - Ojos del Salado (6879 m) - Llullaillaco (6739 m) - Uturuncu (6008 m, with 5820 m reachable by mountain bike!) - A 300 km stage through the heart of the desert, with no resupply or habitation: the ultimate experience of solitude and self-transcendence.

Practical details - Daily distance: max. 100 km and 1000 m elevation gain per day - Average altitude: 4000 m (between 3500 and 5000 m) - Temperatures: ~15 °C during the day, down to -25 °C at night (in a tent) - Accommodation: ~50% in villages (with locals or small hostels), ~50% camping

Estimated budget - 1400 € for the flight ticket (including bike supplement) - 1000 € for on-the-ground expenses

Required equipment - Fatbike (essential for deep sand) - -25 °C comfort sleeping bag - Single-wheel trailer (indispensable for these tough terrains)

My experience In 2022, I completed a similar 1200 km trip north of San Pedro de Atacama: - Full crossing of the Salar de Uyuni (170 km) - Ascents of the Ollague (5868 m) and Aucanquilcha (6176 m) volcanoes - Two 200 km stages with no resupply or human presence Videos available for a glimpse of the adventure: - Atacama Crossing 2022 - Part 1 - Atacama Crossing 2022 - Part 2

Next steps If this adventure interests you, I suggest: 1. A first phone call to get to know each other 2. A meet-up over a drink or a test ride in the Bardenas Reales (similar terrain, and I live 100 km away)

Don’t hesitate to contact me for more info or to discuss the details!

This travel journal is the second part of the trip whose first part you can find here: 1st part...

Sunday, August 7: the day we discover a magical place... Edmaier's Secret...

We got up at 8:00 AM, had breakfast on the terrace of our tiny house, and then set off again toward yesterday’s trail. This time, we stopped after 4.5 miles on House Rock Valley Road at the Buckskin Gulch Trail parking lot. We weren’t interested in that trail today—the slot canyon is muddy anyway after the recent storms...

Instead, we explored a lesser-known area that became our playground. And what a playground it was, folks—an out-of-this-world spot, THE highlight of our trip!!! 😏

Just imagine being in the middle of these landscapes, and the cherry on top... no one else around!!!!! Well, we did meet a couple who were coming back—it was 9:30 AM 😮. Did they camp there? Did they turn back? 🙁

After paying the entry permit online, we set off with plenty of water (6L for the four of us) plus a gallon we hid along the way for the return trip. 😉 After a one-hour approach hike along a wash, we reached the sea of sand.



We had to cross it to reach our goal: a strip about 2 km long and 1 km wide that you can explore freely since there’s no marked trail... We entered a few GPS points into our Garmin Etrex, and off we went!!! 😎 It was... magical, enchanting, a true love-at-first-sight moment!



Brain Rock, waves, fine and brittle rock, colors—it goes up, it goes down.







Just thinking about it gives me chills... I remember sitting still for two minutes, taking in these wonders with such emotion that I teared up...

SIEM REAP You can now rent scooters just about everywhere in Siem Reap, but at rip-off prices—$15–18 a day instead of $5–10 like everywhere else in Indochina. The best options are tuk-tuks or, even better, electric bikes ($12, but with a 50 km range, so they won’t let you go to Banteay Srei or the River of a Thousand Lingas in the Kulen Massif, which are too far). **WARNING:** Wear a helmet, or they *will* catch you. Scooters are banned from going from SR to the stunning temple of Koh Ker in the northeast and continuing to Battambang; no idea why!

My favorite little hotel in Siem Reap? The Neth Socheata, tucked in an alley off Thnou St near the market—lovely rooms, and the owner speaks great English. Then there’s the Ivy Guesthouse with its little garden, but it’s “always full,” according to the owner. For something upscale but still affordable, a fantastic spot is the Pavillon Indochine, tucked away on a quiet side street on the way to the airport—elegant, with incredible attention to decor, a terrace restaurant, garden, pool, etc. Everything you’d want for $70 including breakfast. I also spotted a hostel for backpackers, the Angkor Thom Hostel, with small 6-bed dorms for $4 with a fan or $6 with AC (18 Wat Bo St).

Food-wise, it’s all amazing! Pub Street has turned into a noise nightmare, with speakers blasting what’s supposed to be music but is just *boom, boom, boom, boom, boom*—run away, even though the pizzas at the Italian place Il Forno are really good. The famous and excellent Tigre de Papier has changed its name to Paper Tiger and is still just as good (lunch only, though, because across the street there’s a huge bar blasting *boom boom boom*, so you won’t be able to hear each other during dinner). On the other hand, the Italian-Cambodian El Toro on Pub Street is perfect, with fantastic pizzas and divine lasagna (go to the first-floor dining room—there’s a big bar across the street blasting *boom boom boom*, but at least you can still talk). Due to the lack of customers during COVID, all the French restaurants—Barrio (three times alas!), Les Deux Sœurs, Le Bel Air, and Le Mozart—have closed. The only one left is L’Olivier, which is pricey. I also discovered a great Moroccan restaurant (though run by a Sudanese man and his French wife), Le Tajine, on Strung Thmei St, 09 68 89 78 27. **WARNING:** For tagines and couscous, you need to order at least in the morning; wine and beer are fine. To get there, turn at the corner of the Cineplex behind the big market at the start of Sivatha Boulevard.

I finally went to the Khmer dance show. Beautiful dancers and dances, but **EAT BEFORE OR AFTER**—the meal is so awful that most Westerners leave it on their plates.

THE ANGKOR TEMPLES Use the excellent *Routard Cambodia* guide. Just a few tips: - Start with the pre-Angkorian Roluos group, 15 km before Siem Reap on the road to PP—it’s the “ancestor” of the temples.

- To avoid the big crowds at Angkor Wat, Bayon, and Ta Prohm, go between noon and 2 PM when everyone’s having lunch. - Speaking of lunch, the crowds flock to the hundred or so mediocre food stalls on the left side of Angkor Wat. Instead, head to Angkor Thom after the stunning Pre Rup temples, all the way to the small Sras Srang basin. Along the basin, there are several restaurants with terraces offering first-floor views of the water, and no crowds. Afterward, cross to the other side of the basin—you’ll end up in the countryside with charming villages where locals seem to live as they did during the temples’ golden age (at its peak, the population was estimated at 600,000–800,000, making it the largest city in the world. The theory for the abandonment is water shortages caused by overpopulation).

- I climbed Phnom Bakheng for the famous sunset, but the crowd was so ridiculous that instead of seeing the temple at sunset, you just see the heads and shoulders around you.

- There are tons of small temples that most people skip, and they’re missing out. My favorites: Thommanon, Neak Pean, Ta Som, and especially Pre Rup, an amazing brick complex with 14 towers.

**Big disappointment:** You can no longer climb to the first floor of Bayon, where you used to stand magically among the giant head statues. So, admire the beautiful bas-reliefs on the outside, but there’s no point going inside—you’ll just see a dark, square corridor with nothing interesting.

ANGKOR FURTHER AFIELD The wonderful Banteay Srei temple. A gem! I couldn’t find the bas-relief stolen by Malraux in the 1920s (fun fact: what he was doing in Indochina—stealing a bas-relief to sell for a fortune in France to cover his massive gambling debts on the stock market, where he ruined his very wealthy American wife—was an open secret. But the French authorities in Saigon, who hated him for his leftist views, decided to let him do it and catch him red-handed, which worked perfectly. He avoided jail only because all the leftist intellectuals in Saint-Germain, Sartre, Beauvoir, and co. cried scandal—though the real scandal was the looting).

30 km of excellent paved road further north, a great spot: the Kulen Massif and the River of a Thousand Lingas (at one point, you’ll come to a T-junction—turn left). Along the road at the foot of the massif, on your right, there’s a great restaurant, Bourey Sovann (where the food is excellent). The trail to the river starts just before it on the left. **Warning:** There are two sites for the River of a Thousand Lingas. One is accessible via a private road, so there’s a $20 toll, and you need to arrive before 11 AM because the road is narrow and traffic flows downhill after that. You’ll end up in a site full of shops, snack stalls, and two good restaurants, including one by a beautiful waterfall. However, the thousand lingas aren’t as spectacular there.

Banteay Srei + the River of a Thousand Lingas makes for a fantastic day. **WARNING:** You used to be able to go to the river and waterfall by scooter or tuk-tuk, but it’s now forbidden. So **go by taxi**—otherwise, you’ll be hiking 12 km round trip up a steep trail.

If you leave Siem Reap early, you can even add Beng Mealea temple on the way back, making a triangular route: SR-BS-Khulen-BM-SR (or the reverse).

If you have time, visit Banteay Samré temple, 10 km west of the Angkor Thom complex. A lovely site with very few visitors.

I’ve never been to the famous Preah Khan on a hill overlooking Thailand. There’s a big dispute between the two countries—the Thais insist the temple belongs to them because the entrance is in their country. There have been serious clashes in the recent past, and landmines are still abundant off the marked paths. They even claim the entire Siem Reap province is theirs and should be returned, arguing it was Thai in the past. It takes two days (6–7 hours each way), with an overnight stay in the nearby village (small hotels and one luxury option with a garden and pool, but it’s expensive).

TONLE SAP People talk about “floating villages,” but that’s a big mistake—these are actually villages of astonishing stilt houses, 4 meters high or more, due to the lake’s major floods. The most famous is Chong Khneas, which I skipped because it’s packed with tourists. Instead, I really liked Kampong Phluk, which is much quieter. To get there, continue on the road past the Roluos group until you reach a parking lot with pirogues lined up. They’ll take you down the river, stop at this amazing village for a walk, and then take you to the Tonle Sap, a true inland sea. At one point, you’ll pass through a flooded forest that you can explore by small boat. At the junction of the river and the Tonle Sap, and on the lake itself, there are floating restaurants where the food is great. Note that in the dry season, you can reach the village by scooter.

BACK TO PHNOM PENH AND ON TO SOUTHERN VIETNAM Since I’d planned at least 15 days in the Mekong Delta between Chau Doc and Saigon, I skipped Battambang, etc. With no desire to endure the dusty road from SR to PP again, I simply loaded my bike onto a bus with the great company Rith Monty (book at their office in SR on the small square at the start of Sivatha Boulevard—$10 for the bike and $6 for me), also known as Paramount. Their buses stop on 136 St right in the middle of PP. I’ll also mention the excellent Giant Ibis, with big modern buses that always leave on time—unlike the others.

I spent the night in PP, and the next morning took the fast boat from PP to Chau Doc with Hang Chau Tourist (buying the ticket the day before is recommended—$25—either at your hotel or the port, and they’ll pick you up at your hotel by tuk-tuk to take you to the port). Departure from PP at noon, arrival in Chau Doc around 4 PM. The boat is great—comfortable and fast. A crew member takes your passports for Cambodian exit formalities, and you handle Vietnamese immigration yourself—it all takes 15–20 minutes. The route isn’t on the Mekong but on the Bassac River to the border, then a wide north-south canal to Chau Doc (the arrival is really nice). In the Chau Doc-PP direction, the boat leaves Chau Doc at 7:30 AM.

Good evening. I hope you're all doing well. Sorry in advance—my message will be a bit long, and sorry for any spelling mistakes.

So, here's the thing: I booked a flight ticket through an intermediary to go to Réunion from November 29th to December 16th. This evening, I was checking the dates and times of my flight, and—WHAT A NASTY SURPRISE!!

My outbound ticket is correct—no issues, the day and time match perfectly. But there’s NO flight at the time listed on my return ticket!!! I thought it must be a glitch. I refreshed the page several times, cleared my history, and even searched on other sites and in private browsing.

But it’s still the same—no flight on December 16th leaves at the time shown on my ticket. I went back to the intermediary’s site, then checked the airline’s website, and I had the idea to try December 15th for the departure—and BINGO! The return flight time, the airline, the type of plane—everything matches.

I realized then that the site that sold me the ticket made a mistake on the return date. I don’t know what to do because I can’t get anyone on the phone.

Since the error is on their end, are they obligated to change my flight to December 15th, or do I have to pay for a new ticket?

If I ask them to put me on another flight on the 16th, will I have to pay fees or not?

I’m completely lost and pretty upset, so if you have any answers to my questions, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!

.hi there I'm looking for travel insurance for the USA for a 1-month trip as a tourist. Could anyone give me some advice? Thanks so much

Hello,

After 20 years of operation and a 4-year hiatus, we were happy to rediscover this forum following its acquisition by Myatlas.

At the very beginning of the adventure, there was a section allowing members to share their ideas—good or bad, feasible or not—with the team in charge to help perfect the forum.

So, to help VoyageForum regain its momentum and adapt to new audiences and a new environment, why not put our heads together and suggest some improvement ideas in this thread?

I’ll get the ball rolling!

Travel journals are limited to 300 photos because photo storage is expensive. This limitation is completely understandable, and Myatlas found a solution by offering a paid subscription for those who wanted to exceed the free photo limit. Maybe this approach could be adapted here? Limiting without offering an alternative is a reason members leave.

Hello everyone,

What a pleasure to be back on VF after a few difficult years 😎 So, before diving into the topic, welcome back to VF and above all... keep going!

Well, I’m finally picking up my old habit of posting a new travel journal.

Before heading to Mexico in the summer of 2023 with my family (my partner and our two boys, aged 18 and 16), I had somehow convinced myself—though I can’t even remember why—that the Yucatán was too touristy, too cliché, too expensive, and overrated!

The country didn’t particularly appeal to me, but faced with my wife’s insistence—she’d been there years ago, before we met, and had promised to show our sons this incredible place—my arguments didn’t hold much weight.

And thank goodness, because I have to admit she was absolutely right to take us there! In the end, we encountered far fewer tourists than we’d feared (except at a few sites), and the prices, which we’d been told were geared toward American neighbors (US), turned out to be quite affordable. In short, it was pure joy on both counts. All that was left was for the trip itself to be beautiful and memorable—and it was...

1st stop: Isla Holbox and the whale sharks

Holbox (pronounced “Hol-bosh”) is a stunning island where you can relax in an enchanting setting.



Our main goal in coming to Holbox was to swim with whale sharks. So, the first thing we told our hotel, Los Arcos Holbox, upon arrival was to arrange an excursion with one of the island’s many tour operators: Glendy Tours Holbox. We set off the next morning, bright and early.

The itinerary for this outing is the same for all tour operators (and there are about thirty of them!): roughly two hours by speedboat, then snorkeling with the whale sharks, followed by another boat ride to Cabo Catoche for lunch, then more boating to a fish-filled snorkeling spot before heading back. In total, the excursion can take eight hours—or even longer.



Besides my two sons and me, there were only two other clients on board—a French couple. Our boat was one of the very first to leave, but after ten minutes, the pilot got a radio call. We turned back without any explanation, returning to the departure dock.

There, a young woman who clearly fancied herself a diva was waiting for us. She was Mexican and boarded the boat, snubbing all five of us while flirting with the pilot and guide, who were suddenly all eyes for her. We couldn’t understand how this diva had convinced our tour operator to turn the boat around just to pick her up when she hadn’t even booked and we were already far out. We left 20 minutes late.

The two-hour journey passed surprisingly quickly, and for good reason: we spotted dolphins six times! They were leaping out of the water as they moved. Pure joy. We stopped whenever they were near the boat.



The photo isn’t great—the ultra-wide-angle lens on my GoPro makes the dolphins look smaller—but at least I got a souvenir.

A few flying fish (exocets) also glided a meter or two above the water as we sped along. The false start was forgotten, and the day was off to a fantastic start in this stunning marine environment...

When we reached the area where the whale sharks were supposed to be, the guide explained that we’d now have to scan the sea until we spotted one. It could take five minutes or forty-five, he said, and if we were unlucky, we might not see any at all!

An hour and a half later—still nothing! The captain then headed toward a distant area where about twenty other boats were already gathered.

Sure enough, there was a juvenile whale shark (still a good eight meters long) there, and all the boats were lining up to approach it slowly, one by one, so as not to scare the animal. Each boat got about thirty seconds within a few meters of it, engine idling, before making way for the next. We were allowed to approach three times, but we weren’t permitted to dive in. That’s normal—such a crowd of divers around a single animal would stress it out, and here, whale sharks are protected by regulations: swimming with them is strictly controlled. There was even a coast guard boat with us at all times, monitoring everyone’s behavior.

We were torn between the luck of seeing such a magnificent animal, even from the surface, and the discomfort we felt about the absurd situation. All those boats lined up just to catch a fleeting glimpse of the shark for a few seconds—let’s be honest, it was ridiculous. In short, the whole thing was unpleasant, and probably even more so for the shark than for us, though it did keep gulping down kilos of plankton as if nothing were happening...

When it was our turn to approach, I dipped my GoPro into the water at arm’s length and framed the shot blindly, hoping for a decent image of the shark.



On the third and final approach, the sixth passenger on board—the one we’d had to turn back for ten minutes after departure—quietly spoke to the guide and captain after putting on her flippers (even though, I’ll remind you, no one was allowed to dive). She wanted them to ask the coast guard for permission to dive with the shark—just her! She whispered so we couldn’t hear what she was offering in exchange.

The two lackeys complied and shouted the request to the officials in front of all the other boats, with no shame whatsoever. With so many witnesses, the coast guard had no choice but to refuse. The diva wouldn’t let it go and asked them to insist, which they did, but the refusal was firm and final.

On the nearest boats, everyone had heard and was stunned. They openly mocked this bimbo who clearly had no shame. Hidden behind her star sunglasses, she responded with a dismissive smile. Pathetic.

The encounter with the shark ended, and we set off for Cabo Catoche, a site on Holbox Island where we were to have lunch.



We were a little disappointed not to have had the chance to see the usual school of whale sharks (they’re often dozens swimming together!), but that’s nature’s way, and we knew it.

And then, an unlikely stroke of luck: a boat ahead of us was putting divers in the water with a pair of adult whale sharks. We joined them, and while we were putting on our masks and snorkels, the guide briefed us. He said my sons and I would go first, followed by the French couple and the diva.

But Miss World, clearly unhappy with this order, quietly complained to the guide, who eventually switched the order. It didn’t bother us since we’d only get a minute in the water anyway—what’s a minute more or less?

So the three of them got in the water, and a moment later, they were done. My two sons and I, sitting on the edge of the boat with masks on and snorkels in our mouths, were ready to finally take the plunge. But instead of continuing to follow the shark, the captain was suddenly all eyes for Miss Silicone! He even let go of the wheel for a moment to help her back on board.

One of the two sharks had already left minutes earlier, and the second was swimming farther away. Other boats were arriving, and the captain went to join the queue 100 meters from the shark. Soon, even more boats showed up. There were way too many people, the shark left, and diving was no longer possible.

I was, of course, a little disappointed not to have fulfilled my long-time dream of swimming with a whale shark, even briefly. But I was mostly disgusted for my two boys, who had been so excited about it. I told the guide exactly what I thought and asked for compensation—not for missing out on swimming with the shark (you can never guarantee seeing one, nature isn’t at our beck and call), but for clearly skipping our turn to dive. He promised a refund.

At the end of the day, back on land, he dropped us all off, and as he was about to leave, I reminded him about the refund. He agreed again, calmly got back on board, and sped off as if nothing had happened—just him and the captain, two total cowards. I couldn’t believe it.

Of course, back at our hotel (which had booked this tour operator—Glendy Tours), I explained the situation and asked for my refund again. The receptionist called the manager, who arrived with the guide. Our runaway wasn’t so cocky anymore. Inside, I was fuming, but I kept my cool during the discussion that followed.

Right off the bat, I made a point of looking the so-called guide in the eyes while telling him he’d run off like a coward. I did my best to stay calm, speaking clearly, staring him down the whole time, and repeating several times that he was a coward, in front of the manager, who didn’t say a word. The guide had clearly been told by his boss to keep quiet because he didn’t utter a word during the entire twenty-minute conversation.

Anyway, I’ll spare you the details, but in the end, the manager only offered us another excursion the next day as compensation for the “inconvenience.” It was just snorkeling with fish, not another whale shark trip. He admitted their fault, but since we had to leave early the next morning and had other bookings for the rest of the trip, we couldn’t accept. And he refused to refund us.

On Tripadvisor, Glendy Tours has a mediocre rating (3 out of 5), but more importantly, it ranks 29th out of 36 nautical tour operators rated by customers. I was pretty upset with the hotel for booking such an amateur for us.



If you want to swim with whale sharks in Holbox, you might end up with Glendy Tours. And it might go well—I certainly hope so. But given the price of such an excursion (3,000 pesos per person, about 160 €!), I’d still suggest quickly checking online before you go to see which providers have the best ratings. You’ll have a much better chance of things going smoothly with the top-rated ones than with those as poorly ranked as Glendy Tours.

On the other hand, if you’re a beautiful young woman, you can choose them without worry—you’ll get better treatment than the rest of us...

To wrap up this excursion, I have to mention the “respect for nature” angle that all these tour operators highlight. They tell us they respect the whale sharks: only two or three people can dive at a time, and only for a few minutes, so as not to disturb these gentle giants...

We believed them before we left, but that’s not what we saw. When the sharks are hard to find except for one, everyone rushes it, and only the constant presence of the coast guard prevents the tour operators from putting their clients in the water.

Because for the second shark we saw, when the divers from our boat got out of the water and we left to join the queue while it was our turn to dive, other boats quickly arrived and started swarming the poor shark, which eventually left.

In other words, it’s clear these companies only respect the sharks when they’re being watched.

Boat reversing a meter away from a pelican

And for the snorkeling near Cabo Catoche, they attract fish daily by feeding them—a practice that’s normally discouraged. Afterward, these fish can’t feed naturally anymore and become dependent on Glendy Tours and its competitors.

A quick note on the rest of the excursion: Cabo Catoche (the site where we had lunch, on Holbox Island) is the northernmost point of the entire Yucatán. The place is paradise.



On the way back, we spent half an hour snorkeling at a site that turned out to be fish-filled only because the tour operators had the bad habit of feeding the fish. But this practice, which isn’t respectful of nature, is normally discouraged.



Plus, life jackets—like in many places in the Yucatán—are mandatory!!



As divers, we didn’t find the site very interesting, but objectively, it should delight those who aren’t used to putting their heads underwater in beautiful dive spots.

We hated feeling trapped in those life jackets, stuck at the surface, and for me, the highlight was swimming next to a pelican that wasn’t too shy—it was paddling right beside me in green water.

Anyway, it seems we can’t post more than 10 photos at once on VF, so I’ll come back with the rest of the journal in another message. Because after these early trip mishaps, the rest of the journey turned out to be magnificent...

Hello, There’s a big debate among travelers who are attached to India and have been visiting often, regularly, for 15 years or more. I’ve experienced it—and still do—in every sense of the word, first as a tourist, then from the inside by living there for 12 years. I feel it has changed a lot and continues to change at a dizzying pace, year after year, almost month after month. It all depends on how you see it, how you visit it, where you stay, etc... North or south, and so on... The debate is open—no animosity or arguments if opinions differ. Just your own take, your personal experiences, your travel conditions, what you’ve noticed and still notice today... Let’s try to be objective, if possible, though it’s a tough exercise.

Hi everyone, I’d like to take a trip from France to Malaysia and Thailand like this:

Paris to Kuala Lumpur Kuala Lumpur to Langkawi

Langkawi to Koh Lipe

Bangkok to Paris

I’m wondering if I’ll run into any visa issues on arrival since I won’t have an outbound flight ticket from Malaysia and I won’t have an inbound flight ticket to Thailand. If you’ve got any tips or have done this trip before, I’d really appreciate your help.

Thanks so much.

Hello! I’m a former VF lover (and, incidentally, an explorer of my Atlas 😊) and I’m genuinely thrilled the forum is reopening, but I have two little questions.

Over the past four years, I’ve put together a few travel journals that I’d love to share, but there are two things that bother me: - How can I edit my post after a few hours? (Because sometimes I need to correct mistakes even two days later.)

- At the end of VF’s previous run, there were a few members who were really unpleasant and enjoyed derailing certain discussions. As a result, I know several people who stopped coming to VF because of that. So, for MY travel journals, I’d really like to keep the vibe positive and kind. Is there any way to set something up so the person who starts a discussion can block them?

Thanks, and long live VF!

Hello, I’m taking advantage of the forum reopening to ask this question:

For her 70th birthday, my mom will receive—as a gift—a trip to South Africa at the end of May 2025. We’ll arrive and depart (13 nights later) from JNB on Air France AF990/AF995. We’ll obviously rent a car for certain parts of the trip. I’ve been to the Cape Town area and as far as Agulhas twice, but she’s never been to South Africa before. She might enjoy a day or two of safari, but it’s not a priority for her. I’m well aware that trying to pack in too much is risky, which is why I’m looking for your advice on itineraries, safety, and health (status of the Marburg virus). So far, which combinations of these visits (in no particular order) would be doable and most enjoyable for her at a reasonable pace:

1-day excursion to Pilanesberg Park (+ Hartbeespoort on the way back if possible), self-drive or with a tour guide? 2 nights around the Panorama Route self-driving Garden Route from/to George/PLZ for 5 nights (what are the must-sees for a first-timer with so little time?) Wine region for 2 nights (is it worth doing both the Stellenbosch bus tour and the Franschhoek Wine Tram the next day, or vice versa)—she loves good wine! Cape Town for 2 nights (is it worth stopping at the Cape of Good Hope if—only if—you’ve maybe already been to Agulhas?).

This would give a final itinerary like this:

Day 1: Morning arrival in JNB—rest day/to be defined Day 2: Guided game drive excursion to Pilanesberg Park Day 3: Flight JNB–Port Elizabeth, pick up rental car, drive to Tsitsikamma Day 4–6: Garden Route: activities to be defined Day 7: Transfer to Franschhoek: Wine Tram in the afternoon Day 8: Taxi to Stellenbosch for the Vine Hopper bus tour Day 9–11: Transfer to Cape Town: activities to be defined Day 12: Flight from Cape Town to Hoedspruit or Nelspruit Day 13: Visit the Panorama Route Day 14: Flight from Hoedspruit or Nelspruit to JNB, then evening flight back to France

Given the time spent on the Garden Route, what are the must-sees? Same question for the Panorama Route? In general, she prefers beautiful walks with incredible landscapes/views and cultural visits over big cats, but it would be a shame not to see some local wildlife like meerkats, whales (I doubt it in May), or penguins during her stay! There you go—feel free to critique (not too harshly, though😛)/advise/improve. Thanks in advance! 🙂

Bonjour, Maintenant que toute la France sauf la Creuse est passée en zone rouge, savez-vous si je peux la traverser en voiture de Belgique pour me rendre en Italie ? Et accessoirement, dois-je signer la déclaration sur l'honneur pour rentrer en Italie (j'ai lu quelque part que ce n'était pas nécessaire pour un voyage en voiture ). Merci de votre aide .