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Reflections: Theme for the May 2025 Contest
by Rouquine38 · 2025-05-02 · 79 replies
Here’s the theme for the lovely month of May—no worries, it won’t be lilies of the valley! 😄

This month’s theme is: “Reflection(s)” This leaves a pretty wide scope: reflections in water, of course, but also in windows, on buildings... I’ll leave it to your imagination, but the reflection should be clearly visible.

If this theme has been used before, it doesn’t matter. It’s getting tricky to find new themes that can attract as many participants as possible.

I’m currently in northern Finland and don’t have access to my hard drives, so I’ll add a few photos when I return to France. Here’s just one I took with my smartphone yesterday late afternoon:



Practical details:

Participation: Each VF member can submit up to 3 photos, until Monday, May 26 at 11:59 PM Paris time. Each photo must be posted in a separate message, with its number (1, 2, or 3). Don’t forget to add a little explanation (comment, location, etc.).

Voting: Each VF member can vote for the 3 photos they consider the best, based on their own criteria and the theme.

Voting will take place from Tuesday, May 27 to Saturday, May 31 at 11:59 PM Paris time.

The selected photos will be ranked in order of preference: - 1st photo: 3 points - 2nd: 2 points - 3rd: 1 point

The winner is the author of the photo with the most points.

Results will be published on June 1. In case of a tie, the number of first-place votes will decide. The winner will have the honor of organizing the June 2025 contest.

Photos that have already been nominated (1st, 2nd, or 3rd) in another contest are not eligible for this one.

This thread is exclusively for photos submitted to the contest. Any discussions or comments should be posted in the following thread: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10707526;a=10707526
In MIKUMI and SELOUS, Southern Tanzania (June 2024)
by Puma2A · 2025-05-01 · 93 replies
Hi everyone,

I’m a newbie to this forum, passionate about wildlife, the landscapes of East Africa, and Tanzania in particular. This June 2024 trip/safari is our 7th visit to Tanzania and our 5th in the south, which has drawn us more than the north ever since we discovered it in 2015.

In 2024, the entrance fees for the reserves and services have gone up again since our last visit. I chose to return first to Mikumi Reserve, which was the very first one we visited in the south. Then, we’ll head to Selous (J. Nyerere N. P.) as usual. Initially, we wanted to spend 2/3 days on Mafia Island at the end of the trip, but it made the total cost too high, so we gave up... We usually go to Ruaha and Selous, but I wanted to mix it up a bit—also to save some money...

As for the timing, June is a new experience for us. I thought it might be interesting to come just after the lodges reopen... hoping for some great wildlife encounters??

The trip starts in Marseille with our first flight on Ethiopian Airlines to Addis Ababa, then continues to Dar es Salaam, where we’ll finally set foot on Tanzanian soil again.

In Addis... "our" A-350.



.....

After arriving in Dar, we spent one night at a hotel near the airport. The next morning, we headed to the domestic flights terminal, which hasn’t changed in years.

By mid-morning, we boarded a Cessna 208B Caravan with Safari Air Link, heading to the Kikoboga bush airstrip in Mikumi, which we reached 45 minutes later. Fun fact: the pilot was the same one as on our return flight two years ago.

Welcome on board:



Of course, a driver/guide team from our chosen lodge was waiting for us upon arrival:



I was surprised to see so many aircraft parked there... even twin-engine Embraer Brasilias?? As a fan of vintage planes, I loved it...



On the other hand, the light was incredibly harsh.....!! Our guides only speak English. We knew that in advance. In the south, it’s very rare to find someone who speaks French. This’ll force us to dig into our high school English memories... from 60 years ago... at least.

It’s noon, and we head toward the lodge. Near the airstrip, next to the Mikumi rangers’ base, there are quite a few herbivores. They find a bit more peace here—the big cats don’t venture this way...

Our first encounter was a group of Masai giraffes.





Rarer (for us), a savanna monitor lizard basking in the sun right in the middle of the track...??



A large gathering of impalas (mostly males) along with a few blue wildebeest:





Also unusual: a African crowned hornbill taking a dust bath in the middle of the track...!!



When it comes to identifying mammals or birds, I don’t know everything... so I might make mistakes. Please forgive me. I’m counting on my friend Blesl’s active participation... 😉

...
Tips for a 10-day Corsica itinerary with kids
by Vb92 · 2025-04-25 · 6 replies
Hi everyone,

We’re heading to Corsica for 10 days from April 26 to May 5 as a family with two boys aged 8 and 12. We’ll arrive in Calvi and stay for 7 nights in the hills above L’Île-Rousse. Then we’ll have 2 nights left (accommodation not yet booked) before flying out from Ajaccio.

Of course, we’d like to explore and do a few hikes that are kid-friendly.

Some of the places we’ve shortlisted: - the towns of L’Île-Rousse, Calvi, Saint-Florent, and Corte - the villages of Balagne - the Agriates Desert (Ostriconi beach by car, and Lotu by boat with a hike to Saleccia) - Restonica Gorge - a boat trip to Piana and Scandola

For the last part of the trip, I’m really unsure about: - where to stay? - what to visit? I’d thought about staying near Ajaccio and visiting the Sanguinaires Islands and doing a few hikes along the coast, but I’d also spotted some great options inland around Evisa, like the Aitone Forest, for example.

We’ll return the rental car on May 3 at 10 AM in Monticello and fly out from Ajaccio on May 5 at 7:40 PM.

We’ve rented a car for the whole 10 days.

I’ll admit I’m posting this out of convenience because I’ve been *terrible* at planning this trip and could really use your advice—especially about distances and what’s doable without rushing or spending all our time in the car.

Thanks in advance! Have a great day.

Virginie
Suggestions for a month-long stay in central and southern Vietnam
by Ovide · 2025-04-19 · 10 replies
I'd love to get some suggestions for central Vietnam in February for seniors. We'd like to stay in one place, near a beach, and visit the surrounding areas. Then after a month, we'd head to the south of the country.
Budget for mainland Greece, Cyclades, and car rental
by Paul79 · 2025-04-13 · 11 replies
Hi there, I’m planning a 3-week trip to Greece in July with my two daughters, aged 10 and 13. After looking into it, I’m thinking of spending about ten days on the mainland and another ten in the Cyclades. I’d like to avoid tourist traps but still hit a few must-see spots. Could you share your best tips for renting a car on the mainland and what the budget might look like? I’m all ears for any great tips (accommodation, activities with my girls, areas to avoid). What’s a rough estimate for the total budget, all-inclusive? Just to give you an idea, we’re experienced travelers who’ve already done a round-the-world trip. We’re pretty adventurous, even though it’s a vacation—though we won’t be staying in no-frills hostels either! Thanks! :)
Biking in Vietnam with the family: your route tips
by Happymommy · 2025-04-09 · 4 replies
Hi there,

We’re a family of bike-travelers. Our long journey came to a halt in March 2020 in Ho Chi Minh City due to Covid. We’d been on the road for 8 months—2 in Thailand, 1 in Cambodia, and 1 in Vietnam (from the Mekong Delta up to Ho Chi Minh, where we got stopped). We’re heading back to Vietnam in July-August for 5 weeks to finish what we couldn’t in 2020 (introducing my kids to the country of my roots). We’d originally planned to backpack, figuring it’d be tough to cover the country by bike in such a short time... But the urge to pedal is strong for both parents and kids alike.

We’re thinking of keeping 10 days to explore the North by backpack (since the elevation changes are steep) and saving 3 solid weeks for biking—but we’re not sure where (ideally with minimal elevation gain). We’d love to return to Tam Coc (we visited in 2009 without the kids, thanks to Larsay’s great tips—still so grateful for all the valuable advice!). Logistically, we shipped our bikes 5 years ago, but that seems less doable now. We’re considering either renting (though 5 bikes for 3 weeks would get pricey fast) or buying locally to resell or donate afterward.

Is biking in August unrealistic? Thanks in advance for your insights! !
Thoughts on 3 Weeks of Travel in Costa Rica
by Keops · 2025-04-06 · 1 reply
We just got back from a nearly 3-week trip to Costa Rica in March. For the occasion, we used EVANEOS to plan our trip based on our preferences. After some setbacks with ADOBE RENT-A-CAR—they refused the Visa Premier card and forced us to pay for extra insurance (which is usually covered by the Visa Premier)—we finally set off to explore the country. Observation: Apart from nature, wildlife, and flora, there isn’t much else to see, but it’s so beautiful! Some people criticize the country as insignificant, with bland food and unwelcoming locals. I think those people didn’t really explore—maybe they stayed in their hotel near the beach (UVITA?) without venturing out. Otherwise, there wouldn’t be so many Europeans living in Costa Rica who don’t even consider going back to their home countries. For our part, we found Costa Ricans very kind and welcoming. It’s often said they’re thieves, but personally, we left a small suitcase in a restaurant. When we returned after driving 20 km round trip, the staff were trying to find our phone number to contact us. I think it’s like anywhere—even in France, I’d tell tourists not to leave anything in their car to avoid… well, you know. Food: Traditional dishes, fish plates (tilapia was excellent), and especially ceviche (around 15 € per person)—really good—and lobster (around 30 to 35 € per person), all served with fruit batidos (around 3 € per person). Car: We had a 2-wheel-drive vehicle, which kept us from visiting some sites that require a 4x4, like Boruca, the town of artisan masks. Some lodges are also only accessible via rough, rocky trails that are tough to navigate in a regular car. Don’t hesitate to insist on a 4x4. Keep in mind that driving fast in Costa Rica isn’t possible. Some roads are in poor condition, and there are often unmarked speed bumps that are much worse than the ones in France. You’ll average about 50 to 60 km/h on a leg of the trip. I also recommend bringing a road map to cross-check the routes suggested by Waze or Google Maps. Sometimes, these apps will send you down completely wrecked roads to save time! A paper map will help you verify the road type. It’s better to drive an extra 20 km than to get stuck on a rocky path. - San José to Barra de Pacuare (much less crowded than Tortuguero). Sea turtles are still rare this time of year. Via the canals, we spotted howler monkeys, sloths, and birds, and on land, we saw venomous spiders, poisonous frogs, and a leatherback turtle conservation site. Explored a primary tropical forest with its many species of flora and fauna (monkeys, snakes, sloths, toucans, raccoons, etc.). - Barra de Pacuare to Cahuita: Explored Cahuita National Park (howler monkeys, capuchin monkeys, raccoons, sloths, blue crabs, leaf-cutter ants, etc.) and walked along the trail by Puerto Viejo’s beach. - Cahuita to Bambú: Visited the Bribri tribe and their customs. This isn’t a tourist trap—it’s a deep immersion into a community living almost self-sufficiently. To get there, you take a motorized canoe for over an hour. But be warned: 1 - The restroom cleanliness leaves a lot to be desired 2 - There’s no hot water 3 - A waterfall hike is offered. The first two-thirds are fine, but the last third is very dangerous, especially if it’s rained, even with sneakers. You need sturdy shoes. Our guide turned back halfway… - Bambú to Sarapiquí: - La Fortuna: Explored the Mistico Park tropical forest. A 3+ km trail lets you discover animals and lush vegetation. Sixteen suspension bridges, some up to 45 meters high, offer stunning views of the canopy. Walked around Arenal Volcano: Big disappointment for seeing lava flows. After 2 km, a viewpoint shows vegetation that’s taken over—only a few volcanic rocks hint at the 1968 eruption. - La Fortuna to Carara: Spotted crocodiles at the Tarcoles Bridge. - Carara to Uvita: Relaxed. Uvita is a small tourist town with nothing particularly original, but it’s the place to try CEVICHE, a typical dish of raw fish “cooked” in lime juice. Delicious! We recommend Mestizo for very affordable prices. - Osa to Corcovado National Park: This park is gorgeous. You’ll see all four monkey species, tapirs, scarlet macaws, etc. From Drake Bay, it takes about 1 hour 15 to 1 hour 30 to cross to the park. After navigating the mangroves, the boat heads into open sea until reaching the beach, where you’ll wade ashore (water up to your thighs—bring shoes for the slippery rocks). National Geographic called the park a "jewel of humanity" that must be preserved at all costs due to its incredible biodiversity. The park represents 3% of the world’s biodiversity. You can observe countless monkeys (all four species are present), crocodiles, tapirs, and scarlet macaws. Our guided hike with a French-speaking guide lasted 4 hours before returning by boat to the lodge. WARNING: There’s strict control at the park entrance: - No plastic bottles - No knives - No plastic items - No bare feet. Closed-toe shoes are required (in addition to a pair for the boat) - Osa to Zona de los Santos: This is the coffee region and home to the quetzal, a stunning but hard-to-spot bird that’s also Guatemala’s symbol. Paraíso Quetzal Lodge has a platform with a spotting scope to try to see the bird in the forest. CAUTION: This beautiful lodge is at 2,650 meters altitude. The rooms have incredible forest views, but it’s VERY VERY cold! - Zona de los Santos to San José: Detour to Irazú Volcano. WARNING: Buy tickets before arriving. The staff kindly bought them for us via their phone. Small disappointment: The crater lake hasn’t existed for years! The ads are misleading about this. - San José: A city we found uninteresting.
General 2022+ Update for Russia
by Esantirulo · 2025-04-05 · 19 replies
This forum was closed for a long time after COVID, then due to its sale by the previous owner. Since 2022, there have been notable changes for Russia. It became possible to travel to Russia as a tourist again after COVID restrictions ended in summer 2022. But before that, in March 2022, the EU and member countries cut air links with Russia, as well as train lines. They also cut Russian banks off from the Euro-American banking network—meaning cards and wire transfers.

EU-based insurers stopped offering policies for Russia. The Green Card for cars in Russia was also discontinued. Then the EU abolished the simplified visa regime agreement with Russia. All in all, a summary of the current practical aspects would be helpful.

I’ve been traveling to Russia regularly for about twenty years, and after the long COVID break, I resumed in autumn 2022.

Visa

The usual paper visa is much more expensive. On one hand, because the previous regime was scrapped, and on the other, because invitations for multi-entry visas are pricier. A single-entry 30-day visa costs 80 €. The multi-entry one is 240 €. To be sure you’ll get a 12-month multi-entry, it’s best to buy a telex invitation from the MID (Russian Ministry of Foreign Affairs), though there are few resellers. Prices vary depending on the seller.

E-visas are now available for Schengen passport holders. A big simplification for trips up to 16 days within a 60-day validity period. You can apply from 40 days up to 5 days before your desired date. Issued in up to four days. The site is
https://evisa.kdmid.ru/ Cost: 50 €. Processed through an Emirati bank (United Arab Emirates).

Medical Insurance

Medical insurance with repatriation is required to get a visa. So you’ll need to buy a policy. This brings up payment methods. If you’re already familiar with Russia and have a Russian bank account, you can pay with your Russian card. Otherwise, you’ll have to buy from a site that accepts payments via a Belarusian bank—which means your bank must work with Belarus—or go through https://goingrus.com/fr/insurance

Transport from the EU

Minibus (marshrutka) from Kirkenes (Norway) to Murmansk. Schedules are coordinated with flights from Oslo, which arrive between 11:00 and 12:00. They wait on the right as you exit the airport. Some are chartered by groups and leave directly, but may have space—ask the driver. Otherwise, two companies run the route, with a stop in town at the corner of the Scandic, where they depart around 14:00 or 15:00. Payment in cash (NOK or RUB) to the driver. Main operator: https://borodinbus.com Bus from Tallinn (Estonia) to St. Petersburg. The border crossing is on the Narva River. The Russian road checkpoint has been closed since January 2024 for construction expected to last 2.5 years, so reopening is possible in summer 2026. In the meantime, it’s a two-bus journey: Tallinn-Narva, then walk across the bridge between the Estonian and Russian checkpoints at Ivangorod, followed by another bus. Several companies: Luxexpress, Ecolines, Baltic Shuttle, Anniston, СКСавто. Bus from Riga to Pskov or St. Petersburg (final destination). Departs from Riga’s bus station (behind the train station) daily between 18:00 and 19:00. Arrives in Pskov between 01:00 and 02:00 (Russian time). Company: СКСавто. There’s another bus around 21:00 with Ecolines, but it’s longer, with a long stop at the border. Bus from Gdańsk to Kaliningrad. Several buses per day. From the PKS bus station, behind Gdańsk’s central station, on the other side of the boulevard. From Kaliningrad, a 1-hour flight to St. Petersburg costs around 5000 RUB.

Basically, unless you’re planning to go to Murmansk and the Kola Peninsula—and possibly from Murmansk, flights to Arkhangelsk, then Nenetsia (Naryan-Mar), etc.—the three main crossing points with airports are Tallinn, Riga, and Gdańsk.

The Gdańsk-Kaliningrad bus is the fastest, and the ticket to St. Petersburg is very reasonable.

The Narva-Ivangorod route is the riskiest in terms of potential queues and crossing time. Holiday periods are especially risky. Last mid-June, I took a 14:00 bus from Tallinn. I’d bought a single-berth compartment on the Grand Express St. Petersburg-Moscow train, leaving at 23:00, with the idea of a good night’s rest before a Moscow-Magadan flight. A 7-hour queue at the border meant I arrived at St. Petersburg’s bus station at 23:00—missed the train, had to book a room, and spent time finding a reasonably priced flight to Moscow the next day for the same airport as my Magadan flight.

The Riga-Pskov route is a bit long but relaxed. If you get off in Pskov, you can still get decent sleep between 02:00 and 12:00. The Oktyabrskaya Hotel is cheap. I’ve also stopped in Izborsk. You ask the driver when boarding in Riga. The stop is on the federal highway—cross the road, and the main inn is 200m away. You can explore the medieval site the next morning before taking a bus to Pskov (30 km).

From Pskov, there are fast regional Lastochka trains—three or four per day—to St. Petersburg, taking 3.5 hours. Very comfortable and affordable. Also, two daily flights with Azimuth to Moscow-Vnukovo from 5000 RUB. A one-hour flight. It’s a section of Pskov’s military airfield, just a few kilometers from the city center.

Money

Cash. The EU issued a nonsensical decree: a ban on importing EU currency (euros, zloty, kroner, forints, etc.) except for personal travel use. This doesn’t make sense because as a citizen of a eurozone country, you *have* to have euros—cash or electronic (card). You can’t travel without them. The stipulation about a limit for personal use is absurd because personal use can mean anything from a hostel bed to a luxury hotel room, plus transport (flight tickets, train tickets in Russia), restaurants, etc. Estonian customs officers ask about this at the border when leaving. They ask in Estonian, then Russian, then English, depending. Since I cross with a French passport, I just say, "Sorry, I don’t understand," no matter what. Then they ask with a questioning look, "Euro?" and I shake my head. I haven’t been searched, but they do ask to glance in your bag. Russians with large suitcases often get checked. Cards and phone apps: if you have a Russian bank account.

Telephony and Internet

Roaming works but is pricey. Okay for calls and SMS, but very expensive for data. In that case, use an e-SIM with your home carrier if your phone supports it. Otherwise, look into prepaid rechargeable SIMs in Russia for data only—like SIM cards for mobile modems.

Russian SIM: Since this year (2025), as of March, it’s mandatory to be registered in the EBS (Unified Biometric System) to buy a SIM card. For a non-resident foreigner, this means first registering for a SNILS at an MFC (Multifunctional Center)—also called "My Documents." The SNILS is the pension center, which doesn’t require residency. After getting your SNILS number and certificate, you register on the public services portal, Gosuslugi. Finally, you register in the EBS system (voice sample—you read numbers—and a biometric facial photo).

Personal Car

The Green Card no longer covers Russia, and neither do EU-based insurers. But third-party liability insurance (OSAGO) is mandatory. Since the closure of the Russian checkpoint at Ivangorod for construction and the Finnish border closure, the routes are from Kirkenes in Norway, the Estonia-Pskov route, and—since the Belarus-Russia joint visa this year—the Belarus route, e.g., Poland-Terespol-Brest or Lithuania-Belarus. No OSAGO sales if you cross via Kirkenes. I didn’t see any at Shumilkino, the Russian checkpoint after Estonia toward Pskov. If you have a Russian card, you can buy online, of course. Otherwise, pay in cash on-site at certain company offices (specific forms aren’t available at all agencies) or online by paying to a third-party account outside Russia—with added fees.
Where to stay to explore Ardèche?
by Claude48 · 2025-03-27 · 14 replies
Hello,

I’m planning to spend a few days in Ardèche and I’d like to know if we should choose just one base or more to visit the region. Looking at the department map and the main sites to see, I’d personally go for 2 bases to avoid too much driving. So, if anyone who knows this beautiful region well could give me some advice on this, I’d really appreciate it in advance!
Amazing 3-week trip in January 2025
by Golfouette · 2025-03-20 · 9 replies
Hello fellow travelers,

I spent 3 weeks in Cambodia this January, and I completely fell in love with this country—especially the Cambodian people. I took my time because it was possible, and it turned out to be a total success. Originally, this trip was planned for 2021 and 2022 with my husband, but COVID and an illness threw everything off. Now traveling solo, I went with Siem Reap à la Carte, a local agency. I can’t recommend Mélanie and Nathalie enough—they helped design the itinerary together with me, and the guides and drivers were top-notch. Since I was alone with them, the connection was incredible.

My itinerary: Phnom Penh (2 nights). I arrived at the airport at 1 PM, and everything went super smoothly—I had my E-visa and E-arrival. I had the afternoon free on arrival, a guide the next morning, and the afternoon free again. Battambang (2 nights) with a local guide for all the visits (temples, the bat flight, bamboo train, the surrounding countryside, markets, etc.). Siem Reap (6 nights). I chose to take the public boat across the Tonlé Sap—8 hours on the water, but it goes by quickly, and the scenery is stunning. Of course, in Siem Reap, it’s all about the Angkor temples—most people come for that—but Nathalie and Mélanie also arranged some unique experiences, like visiting a lacquer workshop (even though this wasn’t my first trip to Asia and I’d seen them before, this one was different). I even tried making incense sticks (I’m not very good at it), and we had lunch at a local’s home. There are, of course, the markets, and I also took a cooking class with a chef at his home, where we ate what we prepared. I also spent another day on a boat visiting a village on the Tonlé Sap. I used my free time for a massage, a stroll around town, and in the evenings, I’d head to Pub Street—guaranteed fun. I also visited the Thousand Lingas River. I won’t list all the temples I saw—you can make your own choices or follow recommendations. Either way, everything is breathtaking. Banlung and Ratanakiri, where I spent 4 nights. Because of that, I didn’t go to Mondulkiri. I loved it—jungle walks, visits to ethnic villages and cemeteries, and for those who want, there are plenty of waterfalls where you can swim. The most tourists I saw at once was 5 (a group of 4 and me a little farther away, so you can have peace and quiet). I also spent time at an elephant sanctuary. I was hesitant at first, but everything had been so perfect up to that point that I went, and I have no regrets. It was just me, the guide, and the rangers—lovely people—and the elephants were living their best lives. Next, I headed to Kratié for 2 nights: temples, the Irrawaddy dolphins, and a half-day on Koh Trong Island by bike, tasting their famous pomelos—a pure delight. No cars on the island, just calm and serenity. On my way to Kep, where I spent 4 nights, I stopped for a night in Kampong Cham, visiting temples, villages, and the bamboo bridge. With this kind of travel style, it’s easy to stop wherever you feel like it. So, I arrived in KEP to taste the famous Kep crabs—don’t miss them! The agency arranged a full-day motorbike tour (I wasn’t the one driving!), exploring the countryside and salt marshes. Of course, you should also visit Kampot, and if you love pepper, make sure to leave room in your luggage to bring some back. A full day of fishing by boat, with lunch on board (the fish we caught—though not by me, I’m terrible at that too). A kayak trip through the mangroves. In short, everything was perfect here too, and I took my time to enjoy the sunsets. Back to Phnom Penh for one last night before returning to France. A sunset cruise on the Mekong, and I visited some places I didn’t have time for when I arrived. This was my first solo trip—I usually travel with someone—but the organization was flawless, and the people were wonderful. I didn’t go to the islands near Sihanoukville, even though that was originally part of the plan. But I truly fell in love with this country. I’m considering Thailand next winter, but I’m also seriously thinking about returning to Siem Reap or even visiting those islands. If you’d like more details, I’m happy to help. Nathalie and Mélanie were incredibly patient with me—I’d been in touch with them since 2020, and in 2021, I had to cancel everything. They’re two French women who’ve lived there for a long time, know the country inside out, and—most importantly—have immense respect for the people they work with (guides, drivers). That’s a value that’s very important to me. Happy travels to all!
4x4 Road Trip in Zambia - May 2023 - Solo
by Buzuk9 · 2025-03-06 · 0 replies
Hi there,

I spent 3 weeks there from May 7th to 28th, 2023.

I arrived and departed from the capital, Lusaka.

I rented a 4x4 equipped for camping/overlanding with the only serious option I found at the time from Fair Car Hires. This was to avoid the long approach times from South Africa or Botswana.

4x4: $3,402 for 18 days (😕), a Toyota Hilux Double-Cab Safari Camper—fully equipped, 3.0L diesel, manual transmission, air-con, Bluetooth radio, and 1 or 2 roof-top tents.

I’d already traveled through Namibia, South Africa, Botswana, and KTP, and Harry (the owner of Lukasa in Lusaka) told me Zambia was the "real Africa." I wasn’t disappointed on that front 😉.

I explored three parks: - Lower Zambezi NP (2 nights camping nearby at Mvuu Lodge) - South Luangwa NP (2 nights at Wildlife Camp + 3 nights at Croc Valley Lodge campsite) - Kafue NP (3 nights at Kasabushi Bush Camp + 3 nights at Mapunga Bush Camp) (Check out my route on a map on my personal site).

That’s a lot of kilometers in 3 weeks—just a few well-paved roads in good condition, but mostly rough roads or tracks, which really slows down your average speed 😕.

No supply issues for fuel or food, but watch out for stock in some grocery stores (one Friday afternoon in Chipata, the fruit and vegetable shelves were empty!).

May is still a bit early in the season, so the grass is still tall in the plains.

Lower Zambezi NP: A mother elephant and her "little one":

South Luangwa NP, near the Mushilashi Bridge:

Kafue NP, morning sunrise:

Kafue NP, spotting two lions on Spinal Road near the Shishemba Loop:

Northern Kafue NP:

Kafue NP, leopard during a morning game drive:

Northern Kafue NP, at my campsite in Mapunga Bush Camp—hippo on night watch (Where’s Charlie? 😉):

Kafue NP, tall grass—buffalo lurking!

In Lusaka, I highly recommend Harry and Geke’s welcoming green property, Lukasa, as a base camp (over Lusaka Pioneer Campsite, where I stayed my first night).

More photos on my personal site: wildescapesoverland.com

Happy to help, Pierre

PS: To the site admins, please consider allowing the .webp image format—it’ll significantly cut your storage costs while keeping great resolution.
Where to go in Greece with a child (3 years old): which island and accommodation?
by Tomdebordo · 2025-02-23 · 3 replies
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Greece this summer with my 3-year-old son. I recently separated, and we were originally supposed to go on a road trip to Brazil, so I’m now forced to find a Plan B. I’m usually a backpacker who travels with just my backpack, but with my son, I’ll have to opt for all-inclusive hotel packages. I don’t feel ready yet to go backpacking alone with him at the other end of the world. When he’s 5, it’ll be easier :)

Anyway, with so many options for Greece, I’m a bit overwhelmed. There are so many islands and resorts. Do you have an island to recommend? And more specifically, a hotel?

We’re looking at the first two weeks of August.

Thanks for your help!

Thomas
Ladakh: Is it possible to sleep near Hanle? (India)
by MG42 · 2025-02-23 · 13 replies
Hi everyone, I’ve browsed this forum a lot about Ladakh and haven’t found answers to my questions... so here’s my post. I’m heading there next July with a friend for a solid ten days of cycling (no e-bikes) in Ladakh. The flight to Leh is booked for both of us and our bikes. I’ve got my route planned out pretty precisely; the main goal is to climb Umling La, which is currently the world’s highest motorable road at 5,798 m. We’re also planning to tackle 3 or 4 other passes over 5,000 m, including Photila, just next door at a little over 5,500 m.

I’ve read accounts from Europeans saying it’s impossible for foreigners to spend a night in Hanle... that the closest accommodation to the Chinese border would be in Nyoma. What do you think about that?

Also, some say the road between Hanle and Chushul (the one via Tsaga) is off-limits to non-Indians... Is the parallel route, the one via Mahé and Kaksang La (5,400 m), open to foreigners?

Is the road along Pangong Lake (the one through Merak and Man) also off-limits to foreigners?

Thanks for your feedback!
From Split to Mostar via Montenegro: Various questions (sightseeing, hikes, etc.)
by Attila · 2025-02-19 · 6 replies
Hi there! 🙂

Our summer destination is set: it’ll be a European loop starting from Auvergne, heading down to southern Croatia and then Montenegro, with a return via Mostar.

We’ll zip down to southern Croatia in two stages (we’ve been as far as Šibenik on a previous trip). Here are our booked stops:

Split – 2 nights Makarska – 1 night (via Sveti Jure) Pelješac Peninsula – 6 nights (day trips to Dubrovnik and Korčula from here – Mljet?) Kotor – 1 night Between Cetinje and Budva – 3 nights (Lovćen, Budva, Lake Skadar from our rental) Near Žabljak – 3 nights (via Ostrog / Mrtvica Canyon, Durmitor National Park) Mostar – 2 nights (via Blagaj)

Back to Auvergne in two stages.

Here are my questions:

- Any ideas for sights, detours, or hikes (no more than 500 m elevation gain and 15 km distance) along this route?

- What’s the deal with crossing borders between Croatia and Montenegro, then Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina? I’ve read that the crossing between the first two countries can take hours in the summer...

- Crowds in Croatia: Dubrovnik is apparently best avoided on days when cruise ships dock. I found a site that shows how many ships arrive each day. It says none on Sundays—but is Sunday really accurate? What other places suffer from overtourism? (Before Italian vacation season starts.)

All your suggestions are welcome (just FYI, guided tours, jet skis, jet-set vibes, and quad-bike conga lines are *not* on my wishlist)!

Thanks! 😉
2 months cycling as a family: Denmark/Sweden/Finland and Estonia?
by Anso56 · 2025-02-17 · 8 replies
Hello fellow cycle-tourers! First post on this site for our first big family cycling adventure with our two teens (12 and 16 years old) over 2 months. We're preparing to leave in June/July from Erdeven by bike, then take the train from Auray to Paris, followed by a FlixBus from Paris to Copenhagen with our 4 bikes. After that, we're looking to refine our route: Should we go to Sweden via Helsingborg and then head up to Stockholm along the west or east coast? Maybe passing through the Gotland islands, then via the Åland Islands, why not Turku? Then off to Estonia to Tallinn, ride a bit along the coast, and return by bus if we can find one that takes 4 bikes. :))

Could you share any tips on routes in Sweden: west coast or east coast to prioritize in the south? We’ve heard it’s a shame not to go up to Norway, but we’re worried about the elevation and don’t see how to make a loop work in our 2 months / 1500 km. Any ideas? And the southern Finnish coast: should we go all the way to Helsinki or not? Maybe at the expense of Estonia?

In short, we know choosing means giving something up, but if we can do it with advice from fellow cyclists, that would be amazing! Thanks in advance for your tips! Anne-Sophie and the whole Breton family: David, Axel, and Maude
Recommendations for Austria Itinerary Using Public Transport
by Phantoma · 2025-02-15 · 5 replies
Hi there, We’re planning our itinerary for a month in September 2025 and would love your input, please.

We’re starting from Montreal, arriving in: Paris – 2 nights (already visited, just going back to see Notre-Dame again, 🫠) Ljubljana – 4 nights (we’ll explore the surrounding area, Bled +++) Vienna – 10 nights (we’ll visit nearby spots) Hallstatt – 2 nights Salzburg – 4 nights Innsbruck – 4 nights Barcelona – 4 nights on the way back to Montreal (the flight ticket was cheaper than returning from Vienna, plus it lets us visit another city 🙃😎)

We’ll be traveling by public transport 😎

Any relevant tips—activities, accommodations, or other info—would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance
Family road trip in the Balkans for 16/17 nights
by Ichijooo · 2025-01-31 · 21 replies
Hi there, I’m planning a family road trip (with young kids) next August in Montenegro, Bosnia, and Dubrovnik. Not sure if it’s doable to combine all three in 16/17 nights. Here’s my first draft itinerary:

Day 1: Arrival in Dubrovnik. Head to Mostar (Blagaj village, Kravica waterfalls, Počitelj) in Bosnia. 3 nights. 2h35 drive Day 4: Head to Sarajevo (city), stopping by Jablanica Lake for 2 nights. 2h00 drive. Unsure if we should go all the way to the capital. Day 6: Head to Durmitor National Park (Zabljak) for 3 nights (hike, Durmitor Ring, Tara Canyon, Black Lake). 4h00 drive (anything worth seeing along the way?) Day 9: Head to the Bay of Kotor (between Kotor and Budva) for 4 nights. 3h00 drive. Day 13: Morning departure for Mljet Island (Croatia) for 3 nights. 5h00 drive (via Trebinje in Bosnia). Day 16: Head back to Dubrovnik (city + Lokrum Island) for 1/2 nights. Day 17/18: Return flight

What do you think?
Feasibility of 15-day Bulgaria-Istanbul family itinerary
by Normandaluz · 2025-01-30 · 9 replies
Hi everyone,

This summer, our family (dad, mom, a 17-year-old teen, and an 11-year-old pre-teen) wants to explore Bulgaria and include 4 days in Istanbul during our trip. I’ve got a rough plan, but I’m not sure if it’s doable—here’s what I’m thinking:

Arrival on August 12th in Sofia at 2:00 PM → pick up rental car, visit Sofia. 13th: Sofia → Rila → Sofia 14th: Sofia to Plovdiv, overnight in Plovdiv 15th: Plovdiv to Nessebar (or Sozopol—which is better?) 16th/17th/18th: Exploring the Black Sea coast, based in Sozopol/Nessebar 19th: Bus from Burgas to Istanbul (7-hour trip) 20th-21st-22nd-23rd: Istanbul 24th: Return bus from Istanbul to Burgas. Overnight in Burgas 25th: Burgas → Veliko Tarnovo (Bojentsi) 26th: Veliko Tarnovo to Sofia via Koprivshtitsa 27th: Early flight home

→ In this itinerary, I’ve planned 4 full days in Istanbul. I could reduce it to 3 (since we’ll also spend the evening of the 19th there) and add an extra day to the return trip from Burgas to Sofia, around Veliko Tarnovo/Koprivshtitsa.

My questions: -My 17-year-old son and I are passionate about music, especially klezmer, Romani, and jazz. Any good spots in Sofia, Istanbul, or elsewhere? -Things to do with an 11-year-old kid? -Experiences with the Burgas-Istanbul bus?

Thanks for your feedback!
Crossing the Paraguay border by car to see Iguazu Falls (Argentina and Brazil)
by Akis · 2025-01-23 · 4 replies
Hi there, I’m planning a road trip in a rental car in Paraguay. During this trip, I’d also like to cross the border to visit Iguazu Falls (both the Argentine and Brazilian sides), which are just a few kilometers from the Paraguayan border. The issue is that rental car agencies don’t allow crossing borders. So my question is: is it easy, possible, and safe to leave the rental car for 2 or 3 days in Paraguay and cross the border from Ciudad del Este? What’s the best way to get around (bus, taxi)? Thanks for your help
Train itinerary in Japan: Kinosaki Onsen – Himeji – Hiroshima
by Bananette · 2025-01-22 · 11 replies
Hi there,

I’m continuing to plan our next trip for this coming November.

I’d love to know if it’s realistic to leave Kinosaki Onsen by train in the morning, stop at Himeji Castle (for a visit), and then continue on to Hiroshima to spend the night.

From what I’ve seen, visiting Himeji takes about half a day, and there are coin lockers nearby to store our luggage.

Thanks in advance for your help!
Itinerary dilemma in Louisiana and Texas
by Gaetanop · 2025-01-12 · 2 replies
After days of reading, I've put together the following route... the issue is that we can't find many travelers who've done this exact itinerary. We've already done a road trip on the West Coast.

My round-trip ticket to New Orleans is booked—it's my home base.

What do you think? Too much time spent in some stops, not enough in others? Could I get your thoughts?
CFC-Ambassador Cruise Line Merger
by Ifyoucruise · 2025-01-11 · 38 replies
Hello,

As you may have read or heard—or I’m letting you know now—CFC is merging with Ambassador Cruise Line 😉

I’ve sailed with Ambassador twice already, and honestly, this merger makes total sense! Both companies offer the same type of service (with Ambassador’s English touch), and they generally have similar ships and target the same clientele.

To be honest, I think this is great news! I really hope Ambassador’s influence rubs off on CFC, especially in fixing all the issues I’ve had on Renaissance that I’ve never encountered on Ambassador (food quality, service, cabin problems, etc.).

Leading Ambassador are real cruise enthusiasts—passionate people with a clear marketing direction and a much more professional way of working with travel agents than CFC.

In short, I think this is fantastic news 🙂

Plus, Renaissance will be in the Caribbean next winter, so I assume European cruises will run on Ambience and Ambition. If English doesn’t scare you (too much), and you like the cozy ship vibe with great value for money, check out Ambassador—they’ve got some amazing itineraries! 😉

If you’d like more info on Ambassador, just ask 😉

What do you all think?

Here are a few photos of Ambience
Which stops to make between Dubrovnik and Split?
by Rosedrls · 2025-01-08 · 5 replies
Hi everyone!

I’m heading to Croatia for the second time (first time was 5 days in Dubrovnik), but this time I’ll be seeing more of the country since I’m renting a car to drive between Dubrovnik and Split. I’ve got 2 days and 2 nights for the trip, and I was wondering which stops I could make. I’m looking for quiet, typical villages or spots where I can swim peacefully—just a nice break between the two touristy cities. 😊

Thanks in advance for your help!
Sri Lanka Trip Report – December 2024
by Bascolanda64 · 2025-01-06 · 13 replies
Hi there, I just got back from a trip to Sri Lanka from December 18th to January 1st with 2 adults and 2 kids (12 years old). If it helps, here’s my itinerary.

We left on December 18th from Madrid with Qatar Airways. No complaints. I booked my tickets back in March for 800 € per person. (I flew from Madrid because I live near the Spanish border and was too worried about strikes in France.) We arrived on December 19th at 4 PM (local time). Before leaving France, I’d booked a taxi through MyTransfer for 59 € to Sigiriya. A van was waiting for us at the airport exit. A never-ending 3-hour drive to Sigiriya. We stayed at Samana Guesthouse—very simple, clean, with a pool and an excellent Sri Lankan breakfast. Shower and straight to bed.

Friday, December 20th: Beautiful weather, but very humid and hot. We visited Lion Rock (36 € for adults) and then Pidurangala. I loved both sites—they’re a must-do in my opinion. Spent the late afternoon by the pool.

Saturday, December 21st: Another gorgeous day. The guesthouse manager offered us a free 2-hour tuk-tuk tour. We first visited a lake, rice fields, the temple, and the Sigiriya market, plus the usual tourist trap—the botanical garden (no pressure to buy anything at the end). Then we took a tuk-tuk to Dambulla Temple, the Golden Buddha, and the wholesale market.

Sunday, December 22nd: Still beautiful weather. I’d booked a taxi for 8 AM. We did all the long trips by taxi to save time. I’d ask for prices from 2 or 3 WhatsApp taxi agencies 2 days or the day before—super responsive, always got replies within 5 minutes. We headed to Ella (4-hour drive) for 22,000 LKR. Arrived in the afternoon at Rest Full Homestay—a small, family-run guesthouse. Clean, cozy, and an amazing Sri Lankan breakfast. In the afternoon, we went to Nine Arches Bridge. It was a Sunday, a Sri Lankan holiday, so it was *packed*—mostly locals and very few white tourists! Even though it was crowded, it was cool because it was all Sri Lankans. We waited an hour for the train. It’s worth seeing, but honestly, I didn’t think it was that amazing. Then we headed to the station to check if we needed to book tickets for the train to Haputale—turns out, no.

Monday, December 23rd: Beautiful weather. We hiked Ella Rock—a gorgeous trek. The final stretch is steep but shaded, so it wasn’t as tough as I’d read. The whole hike is stunning from start to finish. We saw the train pass twice (one blue, one red) and lots of women picking tea. After that, we did Little Adam’s Peak. It’s not hard, but it was *packed* with tourists—meh. Luckily, at the top, you can walk a bit farther (down one side and back up) to get some space to yourself. What I *didn’t* like was the commercial vibe at the big café/restaurant with a pool at the entrance of Little Adam’s Peak. Loud music, all that money being made right next to little souvenir stands run by Sri Lankans or tea-picking women. Felt off. Ended the day buying souvenirs at one of the few shops we found during the trip.

Tuesday, December 24th: Beautiful weather. Took the train to Haputale. We got to the station 30 minutes before the 9:30 AM train. We could’ve taken 2nd or 3rd class—I went with 2nd (160 LKR per person). It was crowded, but we managed to get seats—first 2, then 3. Only a 1-hour ride, but I *loved* it—windows and doors open the whole time. Arrived in Haputale around 11 AM, and the mist was already rolling in. We walked to our guesthouse, The Mist Holiday Bungalow. Simple but clean, with a great view of the tea plantations. The owner’s wife is Vietnamese and used to work for French tour operators, so her French is still pretty good—helpful for us since our English is terrible. They booked us a tuk-tuk for 4:45 AM the next day (2,000 LKR) to Lipton’s Seat. Spent the afternoon wandering around Haputale. Not much charm, but there’s a nice fruit and veggie market and a short walk through the tea plantations.

Wednesday, December 25th: Beautiful weather. The tuk-tuk was on time to take us to Lipton’s Seat. We were the first ones there—the sky was just starting to turn pink. In the end, only about ten of us watched the sunrise. The guesthouse had packed us breakfast, and we walked back down (half on the road, half through the plantations). Didn’t see any tea picking since it was Christmas, but the walk was still incredible. We took detours through villages full of kids. After that, we visited the tea factory. The tour was really interesting, and we took the bus back down to Haputale. Such a great moment—whole families were heading to mass, dressed up and made up. All so beautiful.

At noon, we left for Udawalawe National Park. Taxi for 14,000 LKR. Stayed at River Inn Safari Cottage. *Warning*: It’s the same place as Eagle Safari Cottage. I don’t recommend it. We’d always stayed with families before, but here it was just staff—totally different vibe. The pool was nice but not very clean (water was murky). The bungalow was big and fine, but it was brand new—so new the asphalt floor wasn’t fully dry. It’s in the middle of nowhere, so we had to eat on-site. Couldn’t leave a review on Booking because they never confirmed we’d stayed, and they canceled our reservation the next day.

Thursday, December 26th: Beautiful weather. I’d booked a safari through the hotel for 5:30–10 AM for 54 USD. Honestly, yes, there are a lot of jeeps, but it was great. The kids loved it—we saw everything there was to see. Left by taxi at 11:30 AM for Welligama (12,000 LKR). We didn’t stay in Welligama city but at Coconut Beach, between Welligama and Midigama. *Total crush* on the guesthouse: Sky Mountain Café with View. Such a lovely family. The mom makes amazing meals at reasonable prices. The view from the hill over the sea is unreal. Spent the afternoon walking along the beach.

Friday, December 27th: Beautiful weather. My kids are surfers. Unfortunately, there weren’t any boards their size to rent at Coconut, so we took a tuk-tuk to Welligama Bay (1,000 LKR). They surfed from 8 AM to 5 PM—rental was 5,000 LKR for the day. Meanwhile, we walked the beach and swam. Water was 29°C.

Saturday, December 28th: Beautiful weather, rain from 4 PM until midnight. Same surf day. They were so well-behaved the whole trip, so this was their reward.

Sunday, December 29th: Beautiful weather. Beach day at Coconut. *Warning*: It’s a reef break. For surfers, there are three spots (Coconut Left, Middle, and Right). The boys bodysurfed (with fins) all morning, and at 1 PM, we took the bus to Hikkaduwa. Stayed at Hotel Universal Beach. Nothing special—right on the water, but the rooms were dark even though they were clean. The manager was super nice, but the rest was meh, and breakfast was mediocre compared to what we’d had before (2 eggs and 3 slices of toast). Plus, it was late—8 AM. First impression of Hikkaduwa wasn’t great—way too many Russians for our taste.

Monday, December 30th: Beautiful weather. Spent the whole day exploring. Turtle Beach, then the other side of the beach (toward Galle) near the fishing port. The beach there is much wider, with scattered hotels and super quiet. It’s beautiful—I should’ve booked somewhere in that area. Ended up having a great day away from the crowds.

Tuesday, December 31st: Overcast, then beautiful, rain at 4 PM. Had to end the year (and the trip) with some surf. Rented boards for the kids (3,000 LKR per board for the day). Bad luck—the waves were on a reef break but small. Not great for them, but no big deal. They still got out of the water by 2 PM. Walked the beach (which is gorgeous), had a juice, and went for a swim. Then back to surfing in the rain at 4 PM.

Wednesday, January 1st: Left by taxi at 5 AM (18,000 LKR). Flight at 10 AM. Arrived in Madrid at 8 PM.
Great accommodation tips for Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka
by Arunosan · 2025-01-06 · 3 replies
Hello,

I’m new to the forum (I live in Paris), though I’ve used it before during my past trips, a long time ago when I was young :). I’m now the venerable age of 49.

As mentioned in the title, I’m looking for some great accommodation tips for myself and my two daughters, aged 10 and 12, that you may have recently tried during your travels in Japan.

Ideally, since I haven’t been back to Japan since 2008, I’d love to get some reliable recommendations for hotels or ryokan where you’ve stayed.

When I visited Japan several times in 2007 and 2008, I didn’t have kids, so I wasn’t as concerned about comfort. Even though my daughters are used to traveling with me, I’d still like to use the Japan Rail Pass as I did before—except back then, I didn’t book in advance. With kids, I’d prefer to plan ahead.

So if you have any great recommendations to share for these cities (priority), but I’m also interested in Nara, Matsuyama, Fukuoka/Hakata, and Hiroshima.

All your suggestions based on your past experiences will be much appreciated here.

I’d also be happy to chat with you about the differences between Japan nearly 20 years ago, when I first visited, and today. Have many things changed or evolved?

Thanks so much for your help.

Arnaud
From San Francisco to Los Angeles via Highway 1
by Cebvl · 2025-01-04 · 8 replies
Hi everyone,

We traveled between Christmas and New Year’s to visit our son in San Francisco. We’d already seen the parks during a 2008 vacation but hadn’t had time to drive Highway 1 between San Francisco and Los Angeles, so we decided to do it this time. At this time of year, the days are short—it gets dark by 5 PM, which limits sightseeing time. Weather-wise, we had temperatures between 11°C and 20°C (52°F and 68°F) during the week, so it was pretty pleasant. There was a bit of rain one day and some gray skies or fog in the mornings. Financially, California is *very* expensive! Prices listed don’t include tax or tips. Taxes are automatically added to restaurant bills or supermarket receipts, but *you* add the tip. Americans always leave a tip, no matter if they’re happy with the service or not (except at self-service places). The absolute minimum is 15%, but 20% is more common. Here’s how it works: First, the server brings the bill with the tax already added, then takes your card and the bill. They come back after charging your card, leaving you a new bill and a pen. You write down the tip (tips) you want to leave, add it up, and sign. You leave the paper and pen on the table and go. In some restaurants, the server brings the card reader to your table, and there are preset tip percentages to choose from. On your bank statement, the total amount (including tax) shows up as “pending.” A few days later, the transaction is finalized with the tip included. The 9-hour time difference isn’t trivial, especially as we get older 😉. Keep it in mind when planning—don’t overdo it in the first few days.

Here’s our itinerary: 12/25/2024: Flight from Lyon (7 AM) to San Francisco (11:50 AM): 1-hour layover in Amsterdam—way too tight. The airport is huge, and flights to the U.S. are at the far end. You also have to go through customs. We had to run! Luckily, there’s a special line for tight connections, and our flight was delayed! Reunited with our son and walked to the Painted Ladies (Victorian houses) and then through Alamo Square. Return trip via Waymo—a driverless Uber. Surprising, but the ride was super smooth, and we felt safe.

12/26/2024: San Francisco Walking tour of the city: Lombard Street, Pier 39 (sea lions), Coit Tower via the Filbert Steps (great view of the city), Chinatown, and Union Square (ice rink and Christmas tree).

12/27/2024: Monterey It took us about 2.5 hours to drive straight from SF to Monterey (to save time, we skipped the start of Highway 1). The goal for this stop was visiting the aquarium. It’s in an old sardine cannery, and there’s an interesting room showing the machinery and explaining the process. The aquarium features all the local fish and plant species, plus a stunning jellyfish exhibit. We spent about 2.5 hours there. Entry is pricey at $65, and it was packed when we went. For parking, you can use meters or day lots. The cheapest we found was $25 for the day, with in-and-out privileges. We saw some closer lots charging $80, so it’s worth shopping around before parking and walking a bit more. Afterward, we stopped by the Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary—a small, free park where these butterflies land, along with some wild deer. We ended the day at Lover’s Point, a park with an ocean view and surfers. That evening, we tried clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl. Stayed overnight in Monterey.

12/28/2024: Big Sur Parks The Big Sur area has many state parks. Entry is $10 per car for the day (valid for any number of parks visited that same day). Pro tip: If you park outside and walk in, you don’t pay. We chose to visit Point Lobos Reserve. We hiked the trails along the ocean. Two must-do (short and easy) trails: “Sea Lion Point,” where massive waves crash onto the rocks, and “Bird Island Lookout,” where you can see thousands of pelicans and cormorants on the rocks, plus a few elephant seals. It’s truly stunning. We spent about 3 hours there. After driving along Garrapata State Park and crossing the famous Bixby Bridge, we went to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park to do the short Valley View Trail + Pfeiffer Falls hike. It was nice being among the redwoods, but the waterfall was underwhelming. Maybe it’s more impressive in the summer when the river is flowing better. We ended the day at McWay Falls, a waterfall that flows directly into the ocean—super photogenic, especially at sunset. Returned to Monterey for the night.







12/29/2024: Drive to Morro Bay Highway 1 is currently closed near Gorda, so we had to take the inland route from Monterey, adding extra miles. It was raining, so we skipped the planned stop at Carmel-by-the-Sea. Instead, we detoured to Mission San Antonio de Padua, the 3rd mission (out of 21) built by the Spanish in 1773 to evangelize the region. It’s less famous than others, so there were fewer people, and it felt more “authentic” (free to visit). With fog adding to the rain, we headed straight to Morro Bay, our stop for the day, instead of continuing up Highway 1 to San Simeon. Took a short evening walk to Morro Rock—saw a few otters in the harbor. Stayed overnight in Morro Bay.



12/30/2024: Elephant Seals at Piedras Blancas The sun came back! We took a quick walk on the pier to see the otters in daylight, then drove back up Highway 1 to Piedras Blancas (near San Simeon), a famous spot for elephant seals. It’s birthing season, so there were lots of pups, plus males fighting for the females’ attention—what a show! We couldn’t get enough. We walked to the Piedras Blancas Lighthouse, with a few viewpoints of beaches where elephant seals were lounging (though far fewer than at the beach near the parking lot). We continued to Santa Barbara, our stop for the day. Stopped in San Luis Obispo for lunch and a quick city tour (Bubblegum Alley, the theater facade, and the mission). Since it was getting late, we skipped Los Alamos and went straight to Solvang, a charming Danish-style town (windmills, typical Danish houses) with lots of holiday lights (it’s their Julefest). Stayed overnight in Santa Barbara.



Back on VoyageForum
by Jaydev68 · 2024-12-23 · 7 replies
Hello everyone. It's to greet all the old-timers here with whom I had so many interactions when I used to visit this platform regularly and eagerly before it was shut down, much to our dismay.

I was a member under the name "Jaydev," but it seems I can't log in with that name anymore. Maybe I deleted the username, thinking VoyageForum wouldn't come back.

I'm so happy to be able to log in here again. Talking about Indian things—and in the language I love—lets me practice and chat with people who love the land where I was born.

From a visitor's perspective, I find it really interesting to interact with the local population. That's what gives meaning to the word "travel." Without it, traveling is essentially just "getting from one place to another."

Thanks, and see you soon.

Jaydev
Cambodia Information
by Cmichel · 2024-12-22 · 12 replies
hi there since the forum is back up, let’s try to gather some updated info. first off, arrival formalities are changing—starting January 1st, you’ll need to fill out an electronic form before arrival. This replaces the paperwork you used to fill out on the plane or at the airport (for air arrivals). Here’s the link: https://www.arrival.gov.kh/. for visas, the same options remain: e-visa, visa on arrival, or visa at the embassy. The standard price is $30 on arrival, but at land borders, be prepared for a small "extra" for "cigarettes or coffee." don’t forget your passport must be valid for at least 6 months after your return. regarding airlines, prices are pretty high for carriers like Singapore, Qatar, Emirates, Vietnam Airlines, and Thai. EVA Air is a great Taiwanese airline with slightly lower fares, but ongoing pressure from mainland China and quasi-blockades could cause delays or issues—something to watch. there are cheaper Chinese airlines, but friends from China advise being cautious with connections. Worth double-checking. transport is evolving too—there’s now a highway from Phnom Penh to Kampot. Soraya, a well-known bus company, has disappeared. More highway projects are in the works. Buildings are popping up fast, just mentioning this for those who haven’t been to Cambodia in a while.
Review of a cruise on the Costa Fortuna – November-December 2024
by Avionsol · 2024-12-16 · 6 replies
I’ve finally gotten around to writing a review of our transatlantic cruise on the Costa Fortuna. We’ve always loved cruises, especially transatlantic ones. In recent years, we were MSC customers (Diamond card). But this year, we decided to return to Costa, though there was one downside: we lost all the points from our old Costa card (I think we were "Gold"). Still, since we’re former customers, the company generously gave us 1 point and the bronze card. It’s better than nothing.

Our departure nearly went wrong. The ship was leaving Marseille on Friday, December 22 at 2:00 PM, and we were told to be at the port by 10:30 AM. This unusual departure time meant we had to travel to Marseille the day before (since we live in the Paris area). So, we booked a flight from Orly to Marseille on the 21st at 5:15 PM. But December 21 was a particularly rough day in France with a big snowstorm. And as everyone knows, planes and trains don’t handle snow very well. At Orly, in the waiting area, everyone was anxious as the minutes ticked by. The departure time kept getting pushed back in 15-minute increments. They eventually let us board the plane with no guarantees. Once inside, the captain announced we were waiting for a takeoff slot. About an hour later, he said the plane needed de-icing and the wait could be long since airport staff were overwhelmed. Miraculously, after what felt like forever, the de-icing truck finally arrived, and we took off—over two hours late. When we landed in Marseille, the terminal was practically empty. Luckily, our hotel wasn’t too far away.

We later found out that passengers who took the train were even less lucky—trains were canceled. Later, at our table, we met a neighbor who had boarded in Malaga by plane because his Paris-Marseille train had turned back. He’d incurred extra costs, lost two days of the cruise, and had quite a bit of stress.

The next day in Marseille, our boarding went smoothly. We were surprised by the large number of passengers. We later learned that 1,300 people had boarded in Marseille. Since the ship wasn’t full (between 2,300 and 2,500 passengers), the French were in the majority (a rare occurrence). We noticed during the cruise that the French are just as loud as the Italians. The only upside? At least we could understand what was being said.

More to come later.....

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