Carretera Austral à vélo (Chili)
by Turbulette
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Où commence t'elle ? (puerto montt ?!) Est ce la panaméricaine ?? Est ce la plus jolie route à vélo pour descendre en patagonie chilienne ? merci de me faire partager vos expériences ?! de trekkeurs aussi !!😉
"Fait de ta vie un rêve, et d'un rêve une réalité..." Antoine de St Exupéry
Je crois que la route dont tu parles est en fait la pan-américaine et non la route Australe qui est en Argentine et fini à Ushuaia en Terre de Feu, mais bon c'est à vérifier. Par contre l'une comme l'autre sont des routes droites et travaersant un paysage ouvert et très monotone de pampas et il y'a souvent du vent très fort sans parler de la circulation de camions surtout au Chili. Donc à vélo c'est je pense un peu galère et pas très interressant alors qu'il y'a tant de belles choses à voir dans ce pays mais qui est très grand et donc où il faut mieux au moins utiliser une voiture...
Lionel
ce lien a une bonne description de la carretera austral en anglais avec une carte, et aussi des liens pour l'espagnol, mais pas le francais):
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carretera_Austral
C'est la SEULE route pour descendre en patagonie chilienne.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carretera_Austral
C'est la SEULE route pour descendre en patagonie chilienne.
La Carratera Austral part de Puerto Montt pour aller jusqu'à Villa O'Higgins, quelques 1200km plus au sud. C'est une des plus belles routes dont puisse rêver un cycliste! Un ruban quasi désert qui serpente dans une nature virginale entre fjords, forêts enchantées, lacs émeraudes, prairies et rivières paradisiaques... Mais sa difficulté est très variable suivant les segments. La difficulté de la CA ne tient pas tant dans la dénivelée (il n'y a pas de cols importants) que dans l'isolement (prévoir une bonne autonomie, surtout vers le sud), la qualité très irrégulière de la chaussée (parfois goudronnée, mais le plus souvent "ripio" -- un terme générique pour la piste qui recouvre des réalités très variables!), et la météo (très changeante même l'été, avec des vents, des vents...).
Une bonne option est de partir de Chaiten, accessible en ferry depuis Puerto Montt -- la route (200km difficiles) n'est pas continue de Puerto Montt à Chaiten, il faut prendre le ferry de toute façon en plusieurs points. Or un passage de ferry, cela peut représenter jusqu'à plusieurs jours d'attente...
En 2005/06 nous avons effectué en tandem le parcours Chaiten - Coihaique, avec détour par Puerto Chacabuco pour aller voir le glacier de la Laguna San Rafael, et cela reste l'un de nos plus beau voyages. L'immersion dans la nature est totale. Je mets ci-dessous une transcription de notre carnet de route qui te donnera une idée de la vitesse de progression (12km/h maxi sur ripio en mauvais état!). Nous avons eu de la chance car nous n'avons pas été gênés par la pluie. Je pense que pour pousser jusqu'à Puerto O'Higgins, en tenant compte des contingences (pouvoir se permettre de ne pas rouler un jour trop pluvieux par exemple) il est sage de prévoir un mois. Les vents dominants viennent du nord et il vaut mieux faire la route du nord au sud.
Si tu es intéressée par ce parcours je peux te donner quelques recommandations d'hébergement en MP.
Il existe un petit livre (édité en Allemagne) qui détaille la CA pour les cyclotouristes: tous les profils d'étape, les hébergements, les points de ravitaillement etc. Malheureusement je ne me souviens plus du titre; nous n'avons pas pu l'utiliser sur place d'ailleurs car il a été oublié dans l'avion entre Santiago et Puerto Montt!
Les guides Turistel "Sur" et Turistel "Camping", édités au Chili -- tu les trouves à l'aéroport de Santiago --, sont des mines de renseignement pour visiter la région. La meilleure carte disponible du pays Aisen est publiée par Turistel, qui l'a mise en ligne à l'adresse suivante:
http://www.turistel.cl/v2/secciones/mapas/ruteros/aisen.htm-- 27 décembre 2005 - 53km en 3h06 Chaiten -> Lago Yelcho; 30km de ripio
28 décembre 2005 - 81km en 7h16 Lago Yelcho -> Patagonia base camp via col 700m puis Santa Lucia; tout ripio
29 décembre 2005 - 20km en 1h55 Patagonia base camp -> La Junta; tout ripio en mauvais état
30 décembre 2005 - 47km en 3h51 La Junta -> Puyuhuapi; tout ripio
1 janvier 2006 - 60km en 4h43 Villa Amengual -> Villa Manihueles; 37km ripio puis pavimento
2 janvier 2006 - 77km en 4h00 Villa Manihueles -> Puerto Chacabuco; fort vent debout vers la fin
3 janvier 2006 - 80km en 3h59 Puerto Chacabuco -> Coihaique; vent AR au début et col 500m à la fin
Une bonne option est de partir de Chaiten, accessible en ferry depuis Puerto Montt -- la route (200km difficiles) n'est pas continue de Puerto Montt à Chaiten, il faut prendre le ferry de toute façon en plusieurs points. Or un passage de ferry, cela peut représenter jusqu'à plusieurs jours d'attente...
En 2005/06 nous avons effectué en tandem le parcours Chaiten - Coihaique, avec détour par Puerto Chacabuco pour aller voir le glacier de la Laguna San Rafael, et cela reste l'un de nos plus beau voyages. L'immersion dans la nature est totale. Je mets ci-dessous une transcription de notre carnet de route qui te donnera une idée de la vitesse de progression (12km/h maxi sur ripio en mauvais état!). Nous avons eu de la chance car nous n'avons pas été gênés par la pluie. Je pense que pour pousser jusqu'à Puerto O'Higgins, en tenant compte des contingences (pouvoir se permettre de ne pas rouler un jour trop pluvieux par exemple) il est sage de prévoir un mois. Les vents dominants viennent du nord et il vaut mieux faire la route du nord au sud.
Si tu es intéressée par ce parcours je peux te donner quelques recommandations d'hébergement en MP.
Il existe un petit livre (édité en Allemagne) qui détaille la CA pour les cyclotouristes: tous les profils d'étape, les hébergements, les points de ravitaillement etc. Malheureusement je ne me souviens plus du titre; nous n'avons pas pu l'utiliser sur place d'ailleurs car il a été oublié dans l'avion entre Santiago et Puerto Montt!
Les guides Turistel "Sur" et Turistel "Camping", édités au Chili -- tu les trouves à l'aéroport de Santiago --, sont des mines de renseignement pour visiter la région. La meilleure carte disponible du pays Aisen est publiée par Turistel, qui l'a mise en ligne à l'adresse suivante:
http://www.turistel.cl/v2/secciones/mapas/ruteros/aisen.htm-- 27 décembre 2005 - 53km en 3h06 Chaiten -> Lago Yelcho; 30km de ripio
28 décembre 2005 - 81km en 7h16 Lago Yelcho -> Patagonia base camp via col 700m puis Santa Lucia; tout ripio
29 décembre 2005 - 20km en 1h55 Patagonia base camp -> La Junta; tout ripio en mauvais état
30 décembre 2005 - 47km en 3h51 La Junta -> Puyuhuapi; tout ripio
1 janvier 2006 - 60km en 4h43 Villa Amengual -> Villa Manihueles; 37km ripio puis pavimento
2 janvier 2006 - 77km en 4h00 Villa Manihueles -> Puerto Chacabuco; fort vent debout vers la fin
3 janvier 2006 - 80km en 3h59 Puerto Chacabuco -> Coihaique; vent AR au début et col 500m à la fin
La Carretera Australe commence à Puerto Montt et se termine à Villa O'Higgins. Elle a été construite sous Pinochet afin d'assurer la continuité territoriale d'une région faiblement peuplée qui avait de nombreux échanges commerciaux et culturels avec l'Argentine mais très peu avec le Chili.
J'ai eu la chance de la parcourir en décembre 2005, janvier 2006 et c'est un trajet inoubliable et extrêmement sauvage. J'avais en fait effectué Puerto-Montt à Punta Arenas.
La difficulté de la Carretera vient du revêtement fortement dégradé par les camions et de la forte tôle ondulée (calaminas) et du gravier qui se taille sous tes roues parfois. J'ai fini par avoir mal au dos à force de me faire secouer sur le vélo, le problème semblait assez répandu chez les cyclos. La dénivellation n'est pas un problème sérieux.
La partie la plus au sud de la Carretera et moins massacrée car moins de gros véhicules au sud de Caleta Tortel.
J'ai eu de la chance avec la météo lors de mon voyage, la pluie a été rarissime. Par contre vers le Lago General Carrera c'était la guerre aux tabanos, sorte de gros taons qui attaquent dès que tu t'arrêtes. Compter un dizaine de tabanos à écraser par minute.
A Villa O'Higgins tu passes en Argentine en prenant le bateau qui traverse le lac et qui fait une excursion vers le glacier. Tu traverses alors la frontière Chili Argentine et tu arrives au Lago Desierto.
Bonne préparation pour une route superbe.
Christian
Complètement d'accord avec Airborne, c'est une des plus belles routes ( ou plutôt pistes ) que j'aie jamais faite à vélo.
Lacs, forêts, cascades, très faible densité démographique, mais les quelques rencontres ont été chaleureuses.
Moi c'était il y a quinze ans, mais ça doit avoir peu changé.De Puerto Montt, j'avais pris le ferry pour Chaiten, car on m'avait dit que les traversées par ferry entre ces deux villes étaient aléatoires à cette époque ( je crois janvier ).Quand je suis arrivé à Chaiten, cela faisait 60 jours qu'il y pleuvait! J'ai eu la chance d'avoir une place sur le Colono, gros ferry qui fait un voyage par an vers la superbe Laguna San Rafaèl, extraordinaire! un paysage à couper le souffle et une incroyable ambiance sur le bateau!36 heures sans dormir!C'est la partie sud de la cordilière des Andes.J'avais eu de la neige à 500m!
Thaïlande/Laos à vélo 2017/2018 voir récit, itinéraire et photos sur mon site
J'ai eu la chance de la parcourir en décembre 2005, janvier 2006 et c'est un trajet inoubliable et extrêmement sauvage. J'avais en fait effectué Puerto-Montt à Punta Arenas.
Alors je crois bien que nous t'avons rencontré... près de Santa Lucia si je me souviens bien.
En 10 jours nous n'avons vu que deux cyclotouristes: un Suisse (toi?) qui roulait vers Punta Arenas, et un Argentin qui voulait relier Bariloche à Ushuaïa.
Alors je crois bien que nous t'avons rencontré... près de Santa Lucia si je me souviens bien.
En 10 jours nous n'avons vu que deux cyclotouristes: un Suisse (toi?) qui roulait vers Punta Arenas, et un Argentin qui voulait relier Bariloche à Ushuaïa.
Je te contacte en privé pour éclaircir cela!
Il existe un petit livre (édité en Allemagne) qui détaille la CA pour les cyclotouristes: tous les profils d'étape, les hébergements, les points de ravitaillement etc. Malheureusement je ne me souviens plus du titre; nous n'avons pas pu l'utiliser sur place d'ailleurs car il a été oublié dans l'avion entre Santiago et Puerto Montt
Voici le site où on peut consulter et acheter ce livre (en allemand):
http://www.worthandel.de/X34qyV5Ttgh7/01_chilefuehrer.html
Voici le site où on peut consulter et acheter ce livre (en allemand):
http://www.worthandel.de/X34qyV5Ttgh7/01_chilefuehrer.html
Par contre vers le Lago General Carrera c'était la guerre aux tabanos, sorte de gros taons qui attaquent dès que tu t'arrêtes. Compter un dizaine de tabanos à écraser par minute.
Ah les tabanos! Et leur équation impossible: vitesse maximale de la bête 12km/h (il faut donc rouler plus vite pour les éviter), vitesse maximale sur ripio (bien souvent) 12km/h...
Ah les tabanos! Et leur équation impossible: vitesse maximale de la bête 12km/h (il faut donc rouler plus vite pour les éviter), vitesse maximale sur ripio (bien souvent) 12km/h...
Ouïe ! voilà quelques jours que j'avais épluché tous les messages concernant la carretera ... Mais pas dans les 3 derniers jours !
Je viens de démarrer une discussion à ce sujet 🤪
L'idée -grossière- est de démarrer de Puerto Montt, puis Chiloe (Ancud-Castro avec un peu de kayak de mer pour changer), ferry pour Chaiten. Et ensuite ? Là où ça sera le plus facile ... villa santa lucia - la junta - puerto puyuhuapi - parc queulat - villa amengual - manihuales - coyhaique ... ou un autre parcours si, comme tu dis, c'est tout "ripio" ... Je ne vois d'ailleurs pas très bien ce que c'est que ripio ... En fait, quasi ton parcours depuis la junta ... Mais ça a pas l'air évident 😕 Doit-on obligatoirement passer par patagonia base camp pour arriver à santa lucia ????
J'ai également noté ta référence pour le guide allemand ...
Merci !
L'idée -grossière- est de démarrer de Puerto Montt, puis Chiloe (Ancud-Castro avec un peu de kayak de mer pour changer), ferry pour Chaiten. Et ensuite ? Là où ça sera le plus facile ... villa santa lucia - la junta - puerto puyuhuapi - parc queulat - villa amengual - manihuales - coyhaique ... ou un autre parcours si, comme tu dis, c'est tout "ripio" ... Je ne vois d'ailleurs pas très bien ce que c'est que ripio ... En fait, quasi ton parcours depuis la junta ... Mais ça a pas l'air évident 😕 Doit-on obligatoirement passer par patagonia base camp pour arriver à santa lucia ????
J'ai également noté ta référence pour le guide allemand ...
Merci !
Le parcours et la navigation sont simples: il n'y a qu'une seule route! Donc oui, on passe nécessairement par tous les endroits suscités, ce qui ne signifie nullement qu'on est obligé de s'y arrêter.
Pour Patagonia Base Camp, ce n'est guère plus qu'un champ où on peut planter sa tente, face à un chalet parfois loué à des journaliers... tu passeras devant sans doute sans t'en apercevoir (c'est ce qui nous est arrivé et on a dû rebrousser chemin après qq km...).
Qu'est-ce que le ripio? C'est très variable: au mieux une piste cailloutée, au pire des gros cailloux qui se battent en duel sur un fond sablonneux, avec un accotement non stabilisé (chaussée avec profil en V inversé). Sans compter les nids de poule. En tandem où il faut plus anticiper qu'à vélo, j'avais parfois à la fin de la journée la même fatigue que celle de quelqu'un qui aurait passé des heures devant un jeu video! La qualité du ripio dépend de la météo, de l'historique de la maintenance sur le segment de route en question etc... donc toute information à son sujet est par essence peu fiable.
De même attention à la carte: certains "villages" ne sont en fait que des maisons abandonnées. C'est la raison pour laquelle il vaut mieux prévoir au moins 2 jours d'autonomie pour le ravitaillement (même si en principe on passe devant un point de ravitaillement une fois par jour en moyenne).
Je vois que tu veux circuler à vélo à Chiloe. La route là-bas est goudronnée, mais c'est une série de toboggans (beaucoup de dénivelée donc) avec pas mal de traffic et les camions roulent à toute berzingue. Sans compter la météo de Chiloe, qui ferait passer la Patagonie pour la Côte d'Azur. Le bus est une bonne alternative pour se déplacer sur l'île, qui mérite vraiment d'y passer quelques jours!
Pour Patagonia Base Camp, ce n'est guère plus qu'un champ où on peut planter sa tente, face à un chalet parfois loué à des journaliers... tu passeras devant sans doute sans t'en apercevoir (c'est ce qui nous est arrivé et on a dû rebrousser chemin après qq km...).
Qu'est-ce que le ripio? C'est très variable: au mieux une piste cailloutée, au pire des gros cailloux qui se battent en duel sur un fond sablonneux, avec un accotement non stabilisé (chaussée avec profil en V inversé). Sans compter les nids de poule. En tandem où il faut plus anticiper qu'à vélo, j'avais parfois à la fin de la journée la même fatigue que celle de quelqu'un qui aurait passé des heures devant un jeu video! La qualité du ripio dépend de la météo, de l'historique de la maintenance sur le segment de route en question etc... donc toute information à son sujet est par essence peu fiable.
De même attention à la carte: certains "villages" ne sont en fait que des maisons abandonnées. C'est la raison pour laquelle il vaut mieux prévoir au moins 2 jours d'autonomie pour le ravitaillement (même si en principe on passe devant un point de ravitaillement une fois par jour en moyenne).
Je vois que tu veux circuler à vélo à Chiloe. La route là-bas est goudronnée, mais c'est une série de toboggans (beaucoup de dénivelée donc) avec pas mal de traffic et les camions roulent à toute berzingue. Sans compter la météo de Chiloe, qui ferait passer la Patagonie pour la Côte d'Azur. Le bus est une bonne alternative pour se déplacer sur l'île, qui mérite vraiment d'y passer quelques jours!
1000 mercis pour vos réponses qui m'incitent encore plus à ne pas négliger la carretera australe !!
je crois que c'est une évidence même !!
A bientôt
sandrine
"Fait de ta vie un rêve, et d'un rêve une réalité..." Antoine de St Exupéry
Bonjour à vous
je m'incruste dans votre conversation...
Je prépare un voyage de deux mois en partant de Temuco et avec pour but Ushuaia (janvier et fevrier 09). Pour ce périple, j’hésite en permanence entre le coté chilien et l’argentin. Pour l’instant, je pense faire un peu moitié-moitié. Qu’est ce que vous pouvez me conseiller ?? Est il possible de traverser les Andes, à quel endroit et à quel prix (en effort ; dénivelé) ?? Vous parlez beaucoup de la carretera austral (et vous etes pas les seuls!!) mais et le coté argentin aux mêmes latitudes, qu'est ce qu'il en est??
merci de votre aide
je m'incruste dans votre conversation...
Je prépare un voyage de deux mois en partant de Temuco et avec pour but Ushuaia (janvier et fevrier 09). Pour ce périple, j’hésite en permanence entre le coté chilien et l’argentin. Pour l’instant, je pense faire un peu moitié-moitié. Qu’est ce que vous pouvez me conseiller ?? Est il possible de traverser les Andes, à quel endroit et à quel prix (en effort ; dénivelé) ?? Vous parlez beaucoup de la carretera austral (et vous etes pas les seuls!!) mais et le coté argentin aux mêmes latitudes, qu'est ce qu'il en est??
merci de votre aide
Dans l'article Wikipedia, ils indiquent qu'il y a des passages obligés en Ferry. Et que ces ferries ne circulent qu'en janvier et février. cela signifie-t-il que cette route n'est utilisable qu'à cette période?
"Tout voyageur souhaitant utiliser de bout en bout la route australe aura l'obligation également d'utiliser 3 ferrys : un passage de 30 minutes à environ 45 km au sud de Puerto Monttune traversée de 5 heures entre Hornopiren (110 km au sud de Puerto Montt) et Caleta Gonzaloenfin un passage de 50 minutes entre Puerto Yungay et Rio Bravo, avant les 100 derniers km jusqu'à Villa O'Higgins.Les ferrys entre Hornopiren et Caleta Gonzalo ne circulent qu'en janvier et février. les reste de l'année, il n'est pas possible d'utiliser la route australe. La partie sud de la route au delà de Hornopiren permet de rejoindre l'Argentine."
Article Wikipedia en français
"Tout voyageur souhaitant utiliser de bout en bout la route australe aura l'obligation également d'utiliser 3 ferrys : un passage de 30 minutes à environ 45 km au sud de Puerto Monttune traversée de 5 heures entre Hornopiren (110 km au sud de Puerto Montt) et Caleta Gonzaloenfin un passage de 50 minutes entre Puerto Yungay et Rio Bravo, avant les 100 derniers km jusqu'à Villa O'Higgins.Les ferrys entre Hornopiren et Caleta Gonzalo ne circulent qu'en janvier et février. les reste de l'année, il n'est pas possible d'utiliser la route australe. La partie sud de la route au delà de Hornopiren permet de rejoindre l'Argentine."
Article Wikipedia en français
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I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).
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Coming soon:
https://www.Biclou.com/parcours/durance/
Starting from Faverges: 900 km over 9 days

Here’s the detailed Durance route starting from Briançon

Here’s the detailed Durance route starting from Briançon

Hi there,
I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires. I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time). I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
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I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
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What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough? And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
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I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires. I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time). I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral. I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough? And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
Nath
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Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance! Have a great evening
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam. My question is about getting back to Nantes. Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences. I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes. By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains. We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
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I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring. And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear. More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
Thanks in advance
I’m planning to build a new touring bike. I want to prioritize lightness. That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads. The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper. I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork. Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm. It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring. And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear. More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
I wanted to share with you the incredible feat my friend José, who’s 72 years old, is currently undertaking. He left Auterive near Toulouse on Monday, May 18, 2026, on his non-electric bike, heading for the North Cape in Norway!
You can follow his route on the link below—he’s currently in Sweden:
https://thierry-thomas.travelmap.net/jose-de-toulouse-a-nord-cap-2026
You can zoom in on the map and click on each stopover town to see the photos
Hi there!
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.

It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.




One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.


We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.



Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
S.
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.

It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.




One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.


We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.



Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
S.
Hi there, we’re a group of 4 cyclists looking to get from Treviso in Italy to Munich with our 4 non-folding bikes. It seems complicated! Are there any solutions? Thanks so much.
hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed story being posted online soon 1100 km in 11 days beautiful and varied regions
claudio

the trip was completed story being posted online soon 1100 km in 11 days beautiful and varied regions
claudio

Hi, I'm looking for a Pino tandem bike for sale in Quebec and I can't find any. Does anyone have any info, please? Thanks a bunch!
Hi there, we’re planning a Munich to Venice bike trip at the end of June 2026. Getting back from Venice to Toulouse by train with 4 bikes isn’t straightforward. What return options have others who’ve done this trip chosen? Any tips or great deals would be much appreciated. Thanks a bunch! !
Hi everyone,
Happy owner of a Pegasus Estremo bike with a Rohloff hub, which is giving me trouble with the SF11-NCX-FT-E-LITE 700C TS 300/0 fork (serial number TD01329060). It’s starting to show its age, and I’d like to repair it to extend the life of my beloved bike.
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Thanks for your help! Have a great day, Alexandre
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Thanks for your help! Have a great day, Alexandre
Hi, I'd like to know if anyone has done this route recently or has reliable info.
Does the track exist, and most importantly, is there sand (for biking)?
Any info is welcome.
Cheers,
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
Hi there,
New to bike touring,
I’d love to start with a section of the Via Rhona to explore and share (route to be decided).
Looking forward to exchanging tips!
hey everyone,
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
Thanks in advance, Jérôme
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
Thanks in advance, Jérôme
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum!
I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009.
Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem.
Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
A shout-out to a cycling colleague from Savoie
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes Here are his travels Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place Rural and quite peaceful A road cycling route created by Serge B...
N+1 reconnaissance trips on a loop of about 400 km This way, he avoids the SNCF and its troubles http://cbandiera.free.fr/vv/lacs-savoie/recos.php

The latest reconnaissance trip from April to May 2026 http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2026-grenoble-H/index.php

Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes Here are his travels Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place Rural and quite peaceful A road cycling route created by Serge B...
N+1 reconnaissance trips on a loop of about 400 km This way, he avoids the SNCF and its troubles http://cbandiera.free.fr/vv/lacs-savoie/recos.php


The latest reconnaissance trip from April to May 2026 http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2026-grenoble-H/index.php

First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
Hi everyone,
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025. It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border. We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
You’ve been warned.
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025. It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border. We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
You’ve been warned.
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
Hi there,
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure! Thanks in advance.
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure! Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
Hi there,
Coming from Laos (*), I’m planning to enter Thailand by bike via the Fourth Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge.
Before this bridge was built, I’d already cycled the road from Louang Namtha to Houei Sai and crossed the river by boat to reach Thailand.
At the time, the condition of that road was impeccable, and most importantly, traffic was light.
So I’m wondering if anyone who’s taken it recently can tell me whether traffic has increased since the bridge opened.
Thanks in advance!
(*) I’m currently cycling in China (Yunnan)
Coming from Laos (*), I’m planning to enter Thailand by bike via the Fourth Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge.
Before this bridge was built, I’d already cycled the road from Louang Namtha to Houei Sai and crossed the river by boat to reach Thailand.
At the time, the condition of that road was impeccable, and most importantly, traffic was light.
So I’m wondering if anyone who’s taken it recently can tell me whether traffic has increased since the bridge opened.
Thanks in advance!
(*) I’m currently cycling in China (Yunnan)
Hi there,
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.
Here’s the breakdown: Hekou -> Man Hao (94 km); Man Hao -> Yuanyang (64 km); Yuanyang -> Jianshui (bus); Jianshui -> Tong Hai (78 km); Tong Hai -> Chenjiang (85 km); Chenjiang -> Kunming (60 km); Kunming -> Kunyang (60 km); Kunyang -> Eshan (67 km); Eshan -> Yangwu (58 km); Yangwu -> Yuanjiang (59 km); Yuanjiang -> Pu'er (bus); Pu'er -> Dadugang (75 km); Dadugang -> Jinghong (80 km); Jinghong -> Menglun (67 km); Menglun -> Mengyuancun (51 km); Mengyuancun -> Mengla (43 km); Mengla -> Boten (67 km).
Otherwise, I’m currently in Thailand and just hoping my return flight with Qatar won’t get canceled.
Oh well... 😉
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.
Here’s the breakdown: Hekou -> Man Hao (94 km); Man Hao -> Yuanyang (64 km); Yuanyang -> Jianshui (bus); Jianshui -> Tong Hai (78 km); Tong Hai -> Chenjiang (85 km); Chenjiang -> Kunming (60 km); Kunming -> Kunyang (60 km); Kunyang -> Eshan (67 km); Eshan -> Yangwu (58 km); Yangwu -> Yuanjiang (59 km); Yuanjiang -> Pu'er (bus); Pu'er -> Dadugang (75 km); Dadugang -> Jinghong (80 km); Jinghong -> Menglun (67 km); Menglun -> Mengyuancun (51 km); Mengyuancun -> Mengla (43 km); Mengla -> Boten (67 km).
Otherwise, I’m currently in Thailand and just hoping my return flight with Qatar won’t get canceled.
Oh well... 😉
Hi! I’m planning to visit the Stockholm Archipelago by bike in early April.
Do you know if the boats will be running between the different islands at that time of year? For those who’ve already been, all your tips and recommendations are welcome—accommodation, etc. Also, do you know where I can rent a bike in Stockholm? Thanks so much in advance for your help!
Hello there, pedal-powered Young Boys!
Claudio (still from Faverges)
dreaming about a cycling getaway in Italy from Faverges (train all the way to Turin)
from Turin down to Venice along the Po River and back via the Padana (Alta Italia da attraversare – Northern Italy to cross)
The tricky part is getting from Chioggia to Venice.
I read it’s possible by hopping on a boat from island to island,
but it sounds a bit stressful.
Has anyone already tackled this route?
Thanks, and cheers to all! http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/Padania/
Claudio
Thanks, and cheers to all! http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/Padania/
Claudio

Hi there,
I’m currently looking for a bike to do my first bike trip across France, with the ultimate goal of cycling through Latin America. I’ve got a lot of questions and I’d love to hear if you have any answers or advice to share. First off, I’ve been through this before with hiking. I want to get top-quality gear right away. When I started hiking, I ended up buying everything three times—first beginner gear, then intermediate, then expert, etc. For biking, I’d prefer to skip that process and invest right now in a bike that could ideally handle Latin America. I’ve set a total max budget of around 5000 € (roughly 4000–4500 € for the bike and the rest for accessories: panniers, helmet, cycling shorts, etc.).
So, I’ve got quite a few questions:
* I’ve read in several places that some people recommend buying the bike directly in Latin America. Since I need a first bike to train in Europe, would it be better to buy an entry-level bike in France (and sell it before the big departure)? Or is it preferable to start right away with my final bike to get used to it? Is buying it there just to save a bit of money?
* For a long-term trip (around six months) in Latin America, is it better to go for a gravel bike or a mountain bike?
* Should I buy a new bike or a refurbished one? Even more so given that I’m planning a long trip—could a refurbished bike end up causing more breakdowns?
If you have any advice on models, technical features to prioritize, or recommended sellers or resellers, I’d love to hear it. I’m a total beginner—I’ve only just started watching videos and reading up on the subject, and all the technical specs are new to me!
Thanks in advance for your help!
I’m currently looking for a bike to do my first bike trip across France, with the ultimate goal of cycling through Latin America. I’ve got a lot of questions and I’d love to hear if you have any answers or advice to share. First off, I’ve been through this before with hiking. I want to get top-quality gear right away. When I started hiking, I ended up buying everything three times—first beginner gear, then intermediate, then expert, etc. For biking, I’d prefer to skip that process and invest right now in a bike that could ideally handle Latin America. I’ve set a total max budget of around 5000 € (roughly 4000–4500 € for the bike and the rest for accessories: panniers, helmet, cycling shorts, etc.).
So, I’ve got quite a few questions:
* I’ve read in several places that some people recommend buying the bike directly in Latin America. Since I need a first bike to train in Europe, would it be better to buy an entry-level bike in France (and sell it before the big departure)? Or is it preferable to start right away with my final bike to get used to it? Is buying it there just to save a bit of money?
* For a long-term trip (around six months) in Latin America, is it better to go for a gravel bike or a mountain bike?
* Should I buy a new bike or a refurbished one? Even more so given that I’m planning a long trip—could a refurbished bike end up causing more breakdowns?
If you have any advice on models, technical features to prioritize, or recommended sellers or resellers, I’d love to hear it. I’m a total beginner—I’ve only just started watching videos and reading up on the subject, and all the technical specs are new to me!
Thanks in advance for your help!
Calling all travelers.
We’ll be landing at Lyon Airport and want to bike to La Verpillière train station (with panniers and camping gear, etc.) to catch a TER to Voreppe.
What’s the safest route for this bike trip?
Thanks in advance