In 2024, I spent two months solo in El Salvador. While I’m still putting together my travel journal on Myatlas, here’s a quick recap.
It’s a country where it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency.
SAFETY:
For a long time, the country was considered one of the most dangerous in the world because of the "maras," ultra-violent gangs. But today, I think it’s the safest country in Latin America.
BUDGET:
For French tourists, the country is very affordable, especially in the less touristy regions.
TRANSPORT:
I got around everywhere by local bus.
Local buses go everywhere and run all the time. For me, it’s the best way to travel in El Salvador—you’re fully immersed, moving at the pace of the locals, and interacting with Salvadorans who are eager to connect with travelers.
I saw all sorts of things on those buses—I’ve got dozens of stories!
PEOPLE:
I’m used to traveling all over Latin America, and for me, Salvadorans are the warmest and most welcoming. Everywhere you go, people say, "Welcome to El Salvador!"
The connections and long conversations with locals were my favorite part of the trip.
TOURIST CROWDS:
The country isn’t well-known among European tourists, but Americans and Quebecers visit. Overall, it’s still pretty low-key, especially compared to other Central American countries. That said, tourism has been growing since security improved significantly.
WHAT I LOVED ❤️
-Suchitoto, one of the most beautiful colonial towns in Central America.
-The volcanoes—there are so many! Santa Ana is the most touristy.
-The lakes—also plentiful. Coatepeque is the most famous, but there are lots of lagoons too.
-The mountainous regions, where the cooler weather is a nice break: La Palma, Perquín, Cerro El Pital, etc.
-The charming villages along the Ruta de las Flores, especially Nahuizalco with its nighttime atmosphere and food stalls. Juayúa and others are great too.
-The conversations with people who lived through the horrors of the civil war in Perquín and Cinquera. I met one of them by chance while waiting for a bus.
For surfers, El Salvador is a paradise, with world-famous beaches.
WHAT I LIKED LESS:
I loved almost everything, but I found the archaeological sites a bit underwhelming. Joyabaj de Cerén is billed as the "Pompeii of El Salvador," which is a stretch (though it *is* a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its historical value).
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
Here are a few to illustrate my little recap—they’ll be part of the photos I’ll add to my travel journal on Myatlas: Lago Coatepeque, near La Palma and San Ignacio (mountains), Volcán El Boquerón, downtown San Salvador, making "pupusas", Suchitoto church, Nahuizalco market, Laguna El Jocotal, and El Cuco beach.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
First of all, since it's January 2nd, all my best wishes for 2026 with wonderful travels ahead.
I’m planning to visit El Salvador in six weeks and I’m looking for some info.
I’m particularly interested in local bus transportation (chicken buses). I’m mostly thinking of heading west, to the region north of Sonsonate, the Ruta de las Flores, then Santa Ana, Lake Coatepeque, Suchitoto, La Palma, and finally the San Miguel area. I’ve read that the buses are packed—can you still board with a backpack? Are there buses running every day to these villages?
Is there a way to get from the airport to Sonsonate without going through the capital? Same question for traveling from Santa Ana to Suchitoto without passing through San Salvador?
For accommodation, how can I spot places to stay, preferably homestays? I’m not really keen on using Booking.com (even though I found amazing places with great hosts in Colombia that way).
It’s peak season in February and March, and if there’s a way to book via WhatsApp before arriving, I’d love to get some tips on that.
I just checked out your Guatemala blog, by the way—it’s fantastic and brought back some great memories. I’ve been passionate about Latin American countries for a long time and have visited many, solo or with just one other person, and I’ve never had any issues.
Thanks in advance if you can share some info, and happy New Year!
Miolysa
I mostly traveled by chicken bus, and they don’t accept large suitcases—unlike in Nicaragua or Guatemala, where they put them on the roof. I had to leave my suitcase at a hotel in San Salvador, which stored it for free.
But I think with a medium-sized backpack, you can board.
There are buses all the time—several per day—and they go everywhere. They’ll stop pretty much wherever you want.
For Suchitoto, I was coming from the east of the country and had to take several buses, but even if you have to go back through San Salvador, Suchitoto is very close to the capital.
Anyway, the country is small, and the distances are short.
For accommodations, there are Airbnbs, especially in Santa Ana. I stayed in hotels, and in less touristy areas, they’re not very expensive.
You can go to the Tourism Office in San Salvador—they can give you the exact bus routes. I found out about this after I got back (in some areas, I struggled a bit to figure out where the buses left from).
The regions you’re planning to visit are the most touristy, so it’s very easy to get there and find information.
I used the *Le Petit Futé El Salvador* guide from 2019, but it still has valid info.
The El Salvador Tourism Office website is well done and has a lot of useful info—I’ll share the link (in Spanish and English): https://elsalvador.travel/esp/
In the coming weeks, I’ll be putting together a more detailed travel journal on MyAtlas.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
Hi Marie,
thanks for the details. Apparently, traveling in El Salvador isn’t any more complicated than in other Latin American countries.
While the places I’m planning to visit are touristy, I still hope that in the mountain villages it’s less crowded than on the coast.
I also checked out the *Petit Futé* guide for Nicaragua, Honduras, and El Salvador, but it’s from 2015.
I’ll try to look it up on MyAtlas before I leave 🙂
thanks again
In 2024, international tourism wasn’t very developed in El Salvador, and it was a bit trickier to travel there than in Guatemala, for example, where everything is well organized. But traveling in El Salvador isn’t all that complicated if you’re used to taking buses in Latin America.
I didn’t go to the beaches in La Libertad or El Tunco—the accommodations there are apparently expensive.
In the mountainous areas in the east and west of the country, like the La Palma-San Ignacio zone, Perquín, etc., there were fewer tourists.
In 2024, El Salvador wasn’t a touristy country. Most of the tourists were Salvadoran-Americans, and for many, it had been a long time since they’d returned to their country of origin.
I’m not on Facebook, but there’s a page where you might be able to find some info
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
I think it shouldn’t be too complicated, then. The country is small.
Since I speak Spanish, that should help me find where the buses leave from.
I travel light—max 8 kilos total (medium backpack plus a small one).
Thanks for the El Salvador tourism link; it looks well done.
Otherwise, I’m not a big fan of Facebook.
Have a good evening
I’m bilingual in Spanish, and it was still a bit tricky to figure out where the buses leave from and at what time because nothing was written down. There were no ticket counters, and the people you ask might send you to the wrong place. In Perquín, I mentioned it to my accommodation owner, and he said he’d report it so it could be better signposted.
I’m not a big fan of beaches, but I went to El Cuco and Playa Metalio at the end of my trip. They’re not really suitable for swimming, especially Playa Metalio, where drownings happen often.
Happy trip planning! !
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
Hi Marie,
I’m starting to look at accommodations in a few places I’d like to visit (not on the coast).
It doesn’t seem straightforward unless you’re going for dorms. What I’m ideally looking for is a homestay with kitchen access. In Colombia or Mexico, for example, this kind of accommodation is common, and I have great memories of it—but I’m not finding it in El Salvador. I assume it must exist, but it feels like the overall accommodation options in the country aren’t very extensive yet.
If you’ve got any tips, thanks in advance!
Miolysa
I only stayed in hotels, but I know there are Airbnbs—apartments with kitchens. I met an American tourist who spent her three-week vacation in the same apartment in Santa Ana.
There are Airbnbs in other places besides Santa Ana too.
In Santa Ana, I stayed in a youth hostel where I had a private room with a bathroom, and I think we could use the kitchen. This hostel is listed in *Le Petit Futé*; I believe it was the Hostal Casa Verde.
Private rooms are often available in youth hostels.
Tourist spots are starting to have quite a few lodging options.
As for staying with locals, I can’t help you—I don’t do that.
I saw that on the El Salvador tourism office website (the link I shared), there’s a "contacto" tab with phone numbers for several regions and even the airport. There might be a WhatsApp number where you can ask them about homestays.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
You mentioned Booking for accommodations. Since you speak Spanish, why not book by phone and try to negotiate the price, especially if you're staying more than one night? That's what I used to do.
I hadn't booked accommodations in advance, except for the first few nights in San Salvador. After that, I'd call a day or two ahead and negotiate because I always stayed more than one night—this was in July and August 2024.
Otherwise, on another forum, I’d chatted with someone who traveled at the same time as you, in 2025, and she didn’t book anything at all. She’d arrive by bus and start looking for a place to stay—she always found somewhere.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
Hi there,
thanks again—I’ll call a few days before arriving somewhere to book accommodation.
That’s the best way to travel at my own pace...
Have a great week!
Miolysa
Hi Marie,
thanks for sharing this trip on myatlas. I really like this deep dive into some neighborhoods of San Salvador.
Especially the photos of the Museo de la Palabra y la Imagen, which are very moving. I’ll definitely check it out.
I’m thinking it’s important to dig deeper into my reading about the country’s recent history.
Thanks for your comment! Unfortunately, the indoor photos aren’t great because the flash wasn’t working anymore.
Before going to El Salvador, I didn’t know much about the country’s history, but over two months, I got a crash course because there are still many direct witnesses who aren’t that old (in their fifties or younger) and are happy to share their stories.
The MUPI is an important museum for preserving the country’s historical memory. While researching online, I saw that in 2022, at the Museo Reina Sofía in Madrid—one of Spain’s most important museums—there was an exhibition featuring some of the embroideries from the MUPI, made by women who were refugees in Honduras during the civil war.
For me, this visit was even more interesting because I did it at the end of my stay. When I saw the photo of the young refugee girls, I wondered if one of them might have been the woman I met in El Mozote who was 8 years old at the time of the massacre (December 11, 1981) and had fled with her family to Honduras.
I was really struck by how easily Salvadorans share the worst horrors of the civil war, the 1932 massacre, or the *maras*—it was constant and everywhere in the country. I’ve never seen anything like it elsewhere in Latin America. In Colombia, a country marked by years of violence, I only heard about it once: in a shared taxi on the way to Mompox, the driver told me, "A few years ago, on both sides of this road, you’d regularly see bodies hanging from trees as a warning." In El Salvador, people shared far worse horrors with chilling details.
I should be posting the next steps in the middle of next week.
As for accommodation in Suchitoto, I remember there’s a foundation for underprivileged youth, the Centro Arte para la Paz, which offers rooms in a "hostal" with private bathrooms and a shared kitchen.
Hi Marie,
For photos, it’s what they represent that matters.
In January/February 2025, I was also in Colombia, and while I met a few people with painful pasts, I mostly saw Colombians who want to move forward and reclaim a "normal" life. Of course, in several neighborhoods in Bogotá or Medellín, for example, poverty and violence are still unfortunately visible. As in most Latin American countries where conflicts remain ongoing. But that doesn’t stop you from meeting incredibly kind and caring people. And I think that’s what draws me most to these countries.
Thanks for the tip in Suchitoto!
Miolysa
I’m also sharing a link about the green algae pollution in Lake Suchitlán, which I already noticed in 2024 and has gotten much worse in 2025—now the whole lake is covered in algae!
Someone told me about Cerro Eramon, a hiking spot with a great view in the northwest of the country. I didn’t go there, but I was shown some photos—it’s beautiful, and it’s one of those places you don’t hear about on forums or blogs.
For now, El Salvador is still off the tourist radar, but I’m seeing more and more questions about it on forums and social media. People are starting to realize this small country has some real travel gems (though they’re not fully developed yet). So now’s the time to visit—before it gets overrun with tourists!
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
Hi Marie,
I’m planning a trip to El Salvador in 2027 with a friend...
I have an old *Petit Futé* guide and I read your travel blog, but I’d like to know about money—usually I take euros and exchange them as soon as I arrive in the country I’m visiting.
How did you handle it? Exchange euros for dollars in France? Or in El Salvador?
Thanks,
Chantal
In principle, I take euros and exchange them as soon as I arrive in the country I'm visiting.
How did you do it?? Euros or dollars in France??? Or in El Salvador???
Hi there,
Before leaving, I exchanged some euros for dollars in France (there are several exchange bureaus in my city), and I also exchanged money in El Salvador, specifically in San Salvador and Santa Ana.
In El Salvador, only a few banks exchange euros. I think there’s just one—Banco Davivienda. In San Salvador, I went to the one located on Bulevar del Hipódromo in the San Benito neighborhood. My hotel was close to this bank (I noted the hotel name in my travel journal on MyAtlas, but there are other hotels in the area). Exchanging money there takes a bit of time—you have to fill out a form with lots of questions, then the employee goes to see their manager. You’ll need your passport.
Alternatively, you can exchange money at the airport when you arrive. That way, you’re all set. Contrary to popular belief, in some airports, the exchange rate isn’t worse than in exchange bureaus. I noticed this in February in Tunis, where the airport rate was even better than in the city.
Another option: exchange at your departure airport. Last year, I exchanged euros for quetzales at Madrid Airport.
Otherwise, the information from *Petit Futé 2019* was still valid in 2024, and I spoke with someone who traveled in February 2025 and also found the info still accurate.
For those reading my travel journal on Myatlas, I should mention that the stages aren’t necessarily in order.
For anyone traveling by chicken bus, the order doesn’t matter much since you often have to go back through San Salvador (from what I recall, there are several bus terminals in the capital).
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
I have some questions about the Ruta de las Flores. What’s the best way to do it? Is it done all in one go with a few stops and taking the next bus? You mentioned some beautiful villages. Did you stay overnight in any to continue the route the next day? If so, did you take a bus (local or tourist?) with your bag?
Thanks for sharing your experience and letting me know if you’d do it the same way again.
See you soon.
Dominique
The Ruta de las Flores. What’s the best way to do it? Can it be done in one go?
- Did you stay overnight somewhere to continue the next day? If so, did you take a bus (local or tourist?) with your bag?
Hi Dominique,
You can easily visit several villages in a day, but doing them all "in one go" seems a bit rushed to me, even if they’re small villages where there isn’t much to see or do—just a little square, a church, trying local specialties, or going for a short hike.
I’d recommend spending a night in Nahuizalco, preferably on a weekend, to enjoy the nighttime atmosphere. In my travel journal, I mention a budget-friendly hostel with a great value for money (I found the address in the Petit Futé guide).
I also stayed in Ahuachapán (hotel found in the Petit Futé guide), and from these two villages, I visited the others by bus. I chose Ahuachapán because I found a hotel easily.
For Juayúa, I’d also suggest going on a weekend to enjoy the street stalls selling local specialties (what they grandly call a "gastronomic fair").
In 2024, there were no tourist buses in El Salvador, and there aren’t any comfortable, modern buses like you’d find in Chile, Mexico, Peru, or Brazil—just chicken buses, and they don’t accept large suitcases. You’ll need to bring a smaller bag (I left my suitcase in San Salvador, and the hotel held it for free).
I talked to someone who went to El Salvador after me, and she said the tourism office in San Salvador really helped her plan her bus route. I’m not familiar with this tourism office, but I saw it’s near the central square in the capital, where the cathedral, national palace, and BINAES are located.
I’ll share the link—they list places to visit in the capital and even offer guided tours in Spanish, English, French, and Italian:
Thanks Marie for your detailed reply. I’ll jot all this down, especially your tips. I’m heading there for a month in March/April 2027. Have a great trip to South Korea. See you soon
Just to clarify about Nahuizalco—the market and the evening food stalls are there during the week too, but there’s less atmosphere. On weekends, there’s even someone singing in the central square, and the morning market is much bigger.
The tourist office I linked is the Centro de Atención Turística, located at Calle Rubén Darío, 619, in the historic tourist center.
For bags and suitcases, accommodations can hold them for free. I mentioned the hotel in San Salvador, but the hostel in Nahuizalco also kept my things while I stayed in Playa Metalio (a beach I don’t recommend).
If you have any other questions, don’t hesitate—but I won’t be "operational" again until September!
Have a great summer!
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
Hello,
We're planning 15 days in Chiapas. We already spent 3 weeks in the Yucatán 4 years ago.
What would you recommend in Chiapas? Our idea is to rent a car so we can move around freely—there’ll be two of us.
Thanks for your tips on great places to stay, restaurants, and sights to visit!
I’ve been reading some really conflicting info about the best ways and advantages of exchanging euros for Mexican pesos. For those with recent experience, could you shed some light? Is exchanging at the airport currency exchange offices more worthwhile? Other advice suggests that withdrawing with an international bank card is the best option. Thanks for sharing your experiences on this!
Philippe
I’m heading to Guatemala for 18 days in August with my 11-year-old and I’m wondering if renting a car makes sense—not so much because of the road conditions, but because I’d like to spend about 3 days in Livingston. Since it’s only accessible by boat, I’d have to leave the car in Río Dulce. Maybe possible at a hotel, but that means paying for a rental for 3 days without using it...
Same issue for Semuc Champey—it’s only reachable by 4x4, and I won’t be renting that type of vehicle.
Also, has anyone traveled from Panajachel (Lake Atitlán) to Cobán (to explore the caves and waterfalls in the area)?
According to Google Maps, it’s a 6-hour, 44-minute drive... so whether by car or minibus, it’s *really* long (same for Cobán-Flores later).
Are there any interesting stops along the way where I could spend a night? And if I’m not renting a car, is it possible to take two private shuttles for this route?
Hi,
We’re planning a trip to Mexico this summer (loop through Yucatan, Quintana Roo, Campeche). We’re thinking of using public transport or possibly renting a car. The French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website has a lot of recommendations. Are these states safe for solo travelers? Are there any precautions we should take or areas to avoid?
Thanks,
Hi everyone, I’m planning to go to Panama in December and I’d like to know which city is closest to the Panama-Costa Rica border—and just across the border in Costa Rica—to buy the cheapest bus ticket? Just so I have proof of onward travel when I take my flight, thanks.
When planning a trip to Panama, you often hear about Panama City, Bocas del Toro, Boquete, or even San Blas. Yet, there’s a region that remains relatively under the radar in travel guides: the Arco Seco.
Located on the Pacific coast, between the provinces of Panamá Oeste, Coclé, Herrera, and Los Santos, the Arco Seco enjoys a generally drier climate than the rest of the country. Even during the rainy season, you’ll often find more sunshine here than in other parts of Panama.
For travelers who love alternating between beaches, nature, hikes, and local discoveries, this region is definitely worth a detour.
A few ideas for visits:
• The beaches of La Ensenada, El Palmar, Punta Barco, and Coronado
• Surfing at El Palmar, one of the most well-known spots on the Pacific coast
• Kitesurfing at Punta Chame, which is highly reputed!
• El Valle de Antón, nestled in an ancient volcanic crater, with its hikes, waterfalls, artisan market, and hot springs
• Various hikes offering stunning panoramas
• The waterfalls in the San Carlos and El Valle areas
• Golf at Vista Mar or Coronado
• Fishing villages where you can still buy freshly caught fish directly from local fishermen
What I particularly love about this region is that it lets you discover a more authentic and peaceful side of Panama while remaining easily accessible from Panama City.
I’ve been living in San Carlos for several years now, and I’m still discovering new places, trails, beaches, and hidden gems.
If anyone is planning a trip to this region and has questions, I’d be happy to share my favorite spots and personal recommendations.
Hi,
For those who’ve tried it, are Uber or similar services (if available—could you also let me know the names of local equivalents?) reliable and safe?
Thanks in advance.
Philippe
I’m reaching out to tap into your knowledge and experiences, as my partner and I are heading to Guatemala and Belize for the entire month of February 2020, and we could really use some tips.
I was thinking of spending 20 days in Guatemala and 10 days in Belize, especially since our flight arrives in Guatemala City and departs from Belize.
We were considering hiring a driver-guide for part of our time in Guatemala. Which part do you think would be best? We’re choosing this country for all the culture and traditions it has to offer, so skipping a guide entirely would be a shame—but I can imagine it’d be tough to keep one for all 20 days.
So maybe a week or ten days. What kind of budget should we plan for? And most importantly, do you have any contacts for reliable driver-guides?
Thanks in advance for your valuable advice.
Marilyne
Good evening,
We’re planning a long stay in Panama and Costa Rica (one of the perks of being retired), and I’m having a bit of trouble preparing for this trip.
I’ll start with Panama first, then move on to Costa Rica with my questions.
I’ll share my initial ideas a bit randomly—my partner is a bird enthusiast and photographer, so we’ll take our time in certain spots.
1) Late arrival in Panama City
2-3-4-5) Exploring the city—the canal, Gamboa Rainforest, Gatun Lake, Pipeline Road, and Soberanía National Park.
6-7: We’re thinking of heading to the San Blas Islands for 2 nights.
8: Return to Panama City
9-10-11: Renting a car to go to El Valle de Antón for 3 nights.
12-13-14: Heading to the Azuero Peninsula for 3 nights.
15-16-17: We’d love to visit Coiba Island, but it seems tricky to fit into our itinerary.
18-19-20: Boquete and Volcán Barú for 3 nights.
21: Drive to Almirante and head to the Bocas del Toro Archipelago.
22-23: 2 nights there.
24: Return, drop off the car, and cross the border on foot at Sixaola.
If any of you can help, thank you so much!
Christiane
Hi there! We’ve decided to head to Panama this summer and would love to do a road trip with a rental car—there are four of us, and our kids are 20 and 23. Do you have any recommendations on must-see spots and things to avoid? Any great tips for accommodation, restaurants, or activities? Thanks so much for your help
Hello,
We’re heading to Playa del Carmen for two weeks in August with our 4-year-old child.
We’ve seen that you can visit places like Tulum or Cozumel on your own using colectivos. For Coba, we’re hesitant to go alone because we’d like to see the cenotes and the Mayan village.
But we’d prefer to find a French-speaking agency that guarantees small-group tours, especially for Sian Ka’an.
We’d rather avoid the "mimi tours" even though they’re recommended by a lot of people and the *Guide du Routard*, based on the reviews we’ve read.
I’m interested in the agency Muuch Ximbal, which seems to offer slightly different outings. There’s also H and L Tours or Delphine Fautré’s agency (though the last two don’t list excursion prices). We also found Promomaya, but apparently, they don’t have an on-site agency.
Do you have any tips or other agencies to recommend?
We’d also like to swim with dolphins but outside of the Xcaret and Xel-Há parks. Do you know of other ways to swim with them, maybe even in the open sea???
I’ve also seen that it’s possible to swim with whale sharks—is this doable with a 4-year-old who doesn’t like putting her head underwater yet? Have any of you done it? This excursion is quite expensive, and I’d be okay with swimming with them, but just sailing on a boat without being able to see them would be disappointing.
PS: Our Spanish isn’t very good.
Thanks in advance for your replies.
we’re traveling as a couple to Guatemala from Feb 8 to 22.
We’ve realized that given the distances, it feels a bit short.
So, we’ve decided to limit ourselves to:
- Antigua: 3 nights (from Feb 8 to 11), including the arrival day
- Lake Atitlán: from Feb 11 to 14 – 3 nights in San Juan La Laguna, including the morning trip from Antigua to Lake Atitlán
- Chichicastenango: from Feb 14 to 15 – 1 night to attend the Sunday market and visit the cemetery
We have 7 days left that we’re not sure how to organize to cover:
Flores – Tikal – El Remate, then head back to Guatemala City for our flight on Feb 22.
Actually, I have a few questions:
Do you think the time in Antigua and at the lake is enough?
We might do the Pacaya Volcano, which is accessible for beginners, and that’s it.
Should we spend a bit more time at these two spots: Antigua and the lake? If so, we’d have to skip the Chichicastenango market.
We’re also thinking of leaving Chichicastenango to head to Flores, then staying overnight in El Remate. Does that seem doable in one day?
We’ve noted that the trips are long, and since we don’t want to rush, we’ve reduced the number of accommodations. Even though we know we won’t see everything, we don’t want to miss the must-sees.
We’re also wondering if we’ve planned the route in the right direction, or if we should head straight to Tikal when we arrive.
Anyway, I know this is long, but we’re a bit lost.
Thanks so much for your help!
Annick
My partner and I would like to travel to Mexico during the Christmas holidays. We’re well aware that this is a peak tourist season, but it’s the only time of year when we can take a long trip (over two weeks) due to work commitments.
We’re looking to avoid overly touristy areas and travel independently (renting a car). We want to explore Mexico’s history, take our time, and enjoy nature and the sea.
I’ve never been to Mexico before, and I’m considering the following regions (not all of them, of course): Yucatán (outside Quintana Roo), Baja California, Oaxaca, or Chiapas.
I’ve more or less ruled out Chiapas for safety reasons (even though the nature there looks amazing), and I’d love to hear your thoughts on the other regions. From experience, I know that even in highly touristy areas, you can often find quieter spots with good planning and by avoiding the main hotspots. For example, we were in Thailand last year during the same period, and aside from 2-3 places, we had a very peaceful trip—sometimes even being the only Westerners around. Would the same be true for Yucatán or Baja California?
Do you have any recommendations for nice, less touristy spots? What are your thoughts on the regions I mentioned?
Thanks so much for your help, and I hope you have a great weekend!
Hi there,
We’ve had to change our plans, so we’re heading to Guatemala from October 16 to 25, 2025 (in just 6 days 😱 😊😕), with two kids aged 8 and 10. No time difference for us.
Here’s our itinerary:
Day 1: Morning: Arrival in Guatemala City at 9 AM. Drive to Antigua (1-hour shuttle) / Afternoon: Stroll around Antigua / Night: Antigua
Day 2: Explore Antigua / Night: Antigua
Day 3: Visit the area around Antigua OR hike a volcano (Acatenango?) / Night: Antigua
Day 4: Drive to Chichicastenango for the big market (how many hours?) / Afternoon: Iximche ruins? Or the hanging bridges at Atitlán Reserve? Or spend the day in Chichicastenango / Night: Panajachel
Day 5: A day by boat visiting villages around the lake and checking out local crafts (which villages to pick?), Night: Panajachel
Day 6: Drive to Flores with 1 stop? Should we go to Semuc Champey? (how many hours?), Night: ??
Day 7: Drive to Flores (how many hours?), Night: Flores
Day 8: Yaxha (1.5-hour drive each way with a driver), Night: Flores
Day 9: Day trip to Tikal, Night: Flores
Day 10:: Flight from Flores to Guatemala City, then departure at 4:30 PM
About hiking a volcano, I’ve read mixed reviews. Some say it’s easy, others say it’s tough.
Is there a kid-friendly hike where we could see lava from a volcano? Is it only visible at night? Do we *have* to sleep at the top and come down the next day?
I’ve heard of people doing it with 2-year-olds by carrying them, and others using horses—but I guess the horses don’t go all the way up? Seeing a real volcano would be amazing! I think it’d be a memorable experience for the kids. It’d be so cool to say, "We did that as a family!" But maybe it’s way too hard and a bad idea...
I’m struggling to find reliable info on travel times:
- How long is the drive from Antigua to Chichicastenango, please?
I’ve read shuttles leave at 7 AM and arrive at the market by 8:30 AM, but I’ve also seen people say it’s a 4-hour trip 😕.
Are the times on Google Maps reliable?
A blog mentioned visiting Chichicastenango’s market in the morning and Iximché in the afternoon. That seems like a lot of driving, especially after leaving Antigua in the morning. What should we do in the afternoon instead?
Days 6 and 7: The trip from Panajachel to Flores. Any advice on taking an overnight bus?
Should we go during the day with a stop at Semuc Champey? Or fly and spend the extra day somewhere else?
Day 8: Is a full day at Yaxha too much?
Thanks so much for your help—it’s *so* valuable with such short notice! 😅 😅 😅 THANK YOU
PS: If you have recommendations for private drivers, shuttle services, or any firsthand experience, I’d love to hear it!
Hi, a friend will be in Panama at an all-inclusive resort and was wondering if it's worth visiting the Canal in a single day, and also which attractions shouldn't be missed.
Is it better to choose a package deal? What's the recommended mode of transport for this trip?
Thanks
We’re a retired couple in our 70s looking to spend six weeks in Costa Rica between mid-January and mid-March 2026. We’d like to stay in comfortable bungalows (2x3 weeks) and rent a car for the entire period. We enjoy light hiking and some beach time, but we also love relaxing on a shaded veranda, reading, and unwinding. Which places would suit these preferences? We have a lot of experience with this kind of stay in the French West Indies or Indian Ocean islands but have never been to Central America. Does anyone have good tips?
Hi there, after my trip to Nicaragua in January, I’m planning to visit Honduras and El Salvador during the same journey. Can anyone tell me where to cross the border from Nicaragua to Honduras by bus? Is it doable? Safe? And most importantly, what’s a good route to take and what’s worth seeing in Honduras in a safe way?
Is it better to travel with a group (through an agency) or is solo travel no problem?
P.S.: And for El Salvador, same question—what’s a good route and what’s generally worth seeing? Is it better to start in the south (El Salvador) and then head north to Honduras before continuing to Guatemala, or...?
I spent two months alone in Guatemala this summer, without a guide or agency, and I’d love to share a quick recap of my impressions.
● First off, it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency.
If you want a guide for excursions, you can easily find one through the many agencies in Antigua or Panajachel. In Flores, there are also plenty of agencies offering multi-day jungle treks.
● I got around by shuttle for part of the "classic" and more touristy route. To step off that path, I took "camionetas" (chicken buses) or minibuses.
For me, "camionetas" are the best way to get around Guatemala. They let you travel everywhere, fully immersed, at the local pace. They run all the time and are even an adventure in themselves.
Shuttles are direct, but local buses aren’t.
No matter how you travel, trips take a while because roads are often in bad shape, and in the mountains, you can’t overtake.
● As for safety, there’s nothing unusual compared to other Latin American countries. Just keep in mind it’s not Europe. As a solo woman, I try not to draw too much attention—though traveling alone already does that. Like in other countries, I was often asked where my kids and husband were, and I just gave whatever answer I felt like.
● Budget-wise, Guatemala isn’t too expensive for French tourists, but Antigua and Panajachel—two very touristy spots—are pricier.
● Guatemala is a small country but incredibly rich in culture and nature (volcanoes, mountains, beaches, etc.). You can easily spend several days (or even weeks) in each region.
● My top picks ❤️:
- The Mayan markets, especially the one in San Francisco El Alto
- The Ixil Triangle: Nebaj, Chajul, Acul
- The stunning landscapes around Todos Santos Cuchumatán
- Antigua, very touristy but beautiful
- Lake Atitlán, also touristy but gorgeous
I planned to climb Pacaya Volcano, but early in my trip, there was an earthquake in Antigua, and by the end, I wasn’t in the mood. Climbing Acatenango is more spectacular but also more challenging.
● Biggest highlights ❤️ ❤️:
- Tikal—it’s THE must-see site, an incredible mix of archaeology and nature!
- The Joyabaj Fair, which I hadn’t planned to visit but ended up spending a week at: Mayan ceremonies, equestrian parades, diverse dances, processions with Mayan priests, and especially the "palo volador"—the highlight of the festival!
● Small letdown 👎:
- Ranchitos del Quetzal, where I went hoping to spot the quetzal. I knew it wasn’t the right season, but I was still disappointed—I didn’t see any other birds either, and the hiking options were limited. It also took me a slight detour from Cobán.
If you have any questions, I’d be happy to answer them.
● If you’re interested, I kept a more detailed travel journal, and I’m working on another one just about the Joyabaj Fair:
We’re planning a 15-day family trip in February 2026 (with 3 teens). We’ll be visiting friends who live in Puebla. Initially, I was thinking of the Yucatán, but after reading up on it, I don’t think it’s the right fit for us (too crowded, too touristy).
So, we’re leaning toward something like this:
- Mexico City: 2 days (Teotihuacán + city)
- Puebla: 3 days
- Tehuacán: 2 days (to break up the trip—is this a good choice? Is there enough to do for 2 days?)
- Oaxaca: 3 days (Hierve el Agua, Monte Albán, city/tours)
- Pacific Coast: 4 days (snorkeling, excursions)
Does this seem balanced? We’d like to end on the coast for some relaxation, ocean time, and fun for the kids. I’ve seen lots of excursions offered along the coast but can’t decide where to stay. Puerto Escondido? Huatulco? The beaches seem better for snorkeling in Huatulco, but I’ve read mixed things, and it’s farther away. What do you think?
For transportation, is this doable by bus? I’m struggling to find a decent bus between Tehuacán and Oaxaca (overnight schedules), and I’m not sure how to get around the coast. Also, how do we handle luggage between cities? We usually rent a car.
Finally, I’d love feedback on the Pacific Coast excursions—I get the feeling some are worth it and others aren’t. Is bioluminescence really magical? Are dolphin-watching tours ethical and not too "factory-like"? (We skipped them in Quebec and just watched whales from shore.) Can you see sea turtles up close?
Hi everyone,
There’s not much info out there on Nicaragua in general, which is why I posted my questions here on the forum... but didn’t get many answers since it’s tough to find any anyway.
It’s a stunning country, but my experience was mixed.
There are areas with very few tourists (which is exactly what we were looking for), but as a result, there’s almost no way to get around (unless you walk, and even that’s not easy or always possible) and no real tourist infrastructure.
Finding info is nearly impossible—there’s practically nothing, so it’s hard to know what you’ll find in a given place, whether it’s worth taking a 12-hour bus ride across the country, only to turn around 48 hours later.
The easy and pleasant spots: Granada, Ometepe, San Juan del Sur and the Pacific beaches, León, and the Corn Islands. These are the places mentioned in guidebooks (the rest is jungle to the east, not many roads south of the lake, and no boats on the lake either—except for the Rivas-Ometepe connection). Venturing off the beaten path is really tough.
The Caribbean coast: aside from the Corn Islands (which are very touristy but not easy to reach by ferry from Bluefields), or if you want to take a flight with La Costeña, book in advance—there are often very few seats! The rest isn’t particularly satisfying, especially Pearl Lagoon, where swimming isn’t possible due to unsafe water. Don’t expect a postcard-perfect setting. But everything’s worth it if you have the time...
Buses: there are plenty, and they’re super cheap—but be warned, they stop everywhere, take forever, and are loud (though kind of charming in a vintage way). Too many buses can ruin a trip.
Lodges: affordable on a small budget, except in Managua and along the entire Caribbean coast! For example, beaches like El Tránsito (which is gorgeous) charge at least $50 or $60 per night for a basic room. Good to know.
In Matagalpa, we tried to rent a motorcycle to get around—impossible. I asked everywhere, but there was no way. So we cut our stay short because once you’ve explored Selva Negra, there’s not much else to do (an 8-hour bus ride to see a waterfall? No thanks). These might seem like small details, but they really matter when you want to enjoy where you are and discover nice spots—you end up stuck.
Bring plenty of mosquito spray + oral antihistamines: mosquitoes and bites are a *serious* nuisance. (I got over 200 bites in one go during a trip to a humid tropical forest, even though I was covered and protected.)
All in all, it’s an adventurous, exploratory trip. The people are great, and we never felt unsafe (even though some travelers have had *really* bad experiences). I thought there’d be a carnival since it was the right time of year—nothing. No dancing, not festive at all (compared to Brazil, for example, it’s the complete opposite).
We saw animals, but no toucans, for example!
For a beautiful, pristine, and well-organized trip, everyone agrees—go to Costa Rica, but be prepared to pay a lot more. Nicaragua is something else entirely. For surfers, though, it’s amazing! Personally, I love watching fish in clear, calm waters, hiking in nature, and swimming—I think I picked the wrong destination, but I’m glad I got to experience this totally wild side of Central America! :-)
Here’s our itinerary for 15 days in Guatemala.
Does it seem logical in terms of distances to avoid overly long trips? If not, which stop should we cut?
- Antigua
- Atitlán
- Lanquín
- Río Dulce
- El Remate – Flores
- Guatemala City
Could you help me estimate the approximate travel time for these routes by tourist bus or shuttle?
- Atitlán – Lanquín
- Lanquín – Río Dulce
- Río Dulce – El Remate
- Flores – Guatemala City
Hi everyone,
I’m so happy 🙂 to be traveling again after 5 years without a trip. I’m heading back to Costa Rica for 18 days from December 12th to 30th with a friend. We’re doing San José-Sarapiquí (2 nights), then Sarapiquí-Tortuguero (3 nights), then from Tortuguero heading to the Cahuita and Puerto Viejo area. We’ll spend about ten days in that region, then make a 2-day stop somewhere before flying back out of San José.
From what I’ve read on this blog, Puerto Viejo seems like the "rasta," party-friendly spot, which is honestly the kind of place I tend to avoid—too touristy. I’m looking for places surrounded by beautiful nature. I’ve already spent several weeks in Drake Bay (in 2019 and 10 years before that) and loved it. My friend also wants to visit the Bri Bri.
Could you recommend some authentic spots in this southern Caribbean area? Your favorite places—whether it’s sights to see, accommodations, or even your favorite little restaurants 😛?
What’s the most authentic way to visit the Bri Bri? What’s your take on that?
And finally, what beautiful stop would you recommend before heading back to San José?
A huge thank you to everyone!
Have a great day,
Zineb
We’d like to do a tour to Yaxchilan and Bonampak from Palenque, but it seems there are tons of travel agencies offering this tour. We’ve also read about a lot of disappointments... any recommendations?
Hi,
I’m heading to Cancun next January and I’m looking for a rental car.
I’m overwhelmed by all these cheap offers from sites like Booking, Carigami, and others...
Some reviews mention extra insurance fees that had to be paid on the spot.
I’d love to hear about your experiences—what company did you use? Were you charged any additional costs?
A lot of ads redirect to Touracancun, but they don’t seem trustworthy to me.
Thanks for your feedback!
My son is finishing up a year of working holiday in Canada soon. His plan is to take a bus from Montreal to Florida on 10/26, stay there for a few days, then fly to Cancun, Mexico. From there, he doesn’t have a precise plan yet, except to head down to Panama if the security situation in the countries he’ll cross allows it. Then, in March 2026, he’ll take a flight to Martinique, where he’d like to either find a sailboat (as crew) for the return transatlantic crossing (option 1) or do a sailing internship that includes the crossing (option 2).
So my questions are:
- Will he be able to re-enter Mexico without an exit date or proof of a flight back to Belgium? Would being able to prove his return by sailboat with a specific date (option 2, the sailing internship) make things easier?
- Are there any countries to avoid between Mexico and Panama? He’s traveling backpacker-style on a small budget.
Hi everyone, absolute travel lovers after our 20 trips to the USA, we’ve decided to head to Mexico in February (flight already booked: Nice to Cancun on February 20th, returning on the evening of March 1st).
I’m mainly hesitating about trying to do too much, as usual when discovering a new country. Here’s my itinerary—I’m unsure about a few things:
- **Day 1**: Should we stay relaxed at the resort we booked, or should we do Isla Mujeres instead? If we stay, when’s the best time to visit the island?
- **Day 3**: If we visit Chichén Itzá right at opening, will the Ik-Kil cenote be quieter in terms of tourists? If not, which cenote nearby would you recommend?
- **Big decision**: Should we go all the way down to Bacalar or not? After that, it feels a bit rushed. **Day 6** is mandatory, or are there other options? Honestly, I’m counting on your advice!
For context, we’re a family of four (with very grown-up kids who are used to traveling), and we’ve already rented an SUV for this period. Thanks in advance for your help—it’ll be invaluable!
**Departure – February 20th**: Arrival in Cancún
Arrival at 8:20 PM, pick up rental car.
Overnight in Cancún.
**Day 1 – February 21st**: Isla Mujeres
Ferry from Cancún to Isla Mujeres.
Playa Norte, snorkeling, golf cart tour.
Return to Cancún. Overnight in Cancún.
Drive (~3.5h). Settle in Tulum.
Visit the Mayan ruins of Tulum (stunning ocean view).
Swim in Gran Cenote or Cenote Calavera.
End the day at Playa Paraíso.
Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 6 – February 26th**: Sian Ka’an Reserve
Guided excursion:
Option Muyil (half-day): boat tour + swim in the Mayan canal.
Option Punta Allen (full-day): dolphins, turtles, snorkeling on the reef.
Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 7 – February 27th**: Tulum → Akumal → Playa del Carmen
Morning: snorkeling with turtles in Akumal.
Lunch, then drive to Playa del Carmen.
Evening on 5th Avenue.
Overnight in Playa del Carmen.
**Day 8 – February 28th**: Playa del Carmen → Puerto Morelos
Free morning in Playa del Carmen (beach or Cenotes Azul & Cristalino).
Afternoon: drive to Puerto Morelos (~30 min).
Overnight in Puerto Morelos.
**Day 9 – March 1st**: Puerto Morelos → Cancún → Return flight
Relaxing morning in Puerto Morelos.
Drive (~30 min) to Cancún Airport.
Return rental car. Return flight.
Back in 2002, we spent two weeks in Playa del Carmen. We did day trips to Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, Chichén Itzá, Tulum, and Xcaret.
We’re heading back at Christmas with our two daughters, aged 15 and 19. I’m sure it’s changed a lot with the booming tourism.
Flights are booked: Paris-Cancún on 19/12 (arriving at 8:20 PM) and Cancún-Paris on 01/01 at 1:30 PM. We’re still finalizing the itinerary because we want to explore but don’t want to switch hotels too often. We’ll be there for 13 nights and 12 days, so we’re choosing among:
- Playa del Carmen
- Cozumel
- Holbox
- Valladolid
- Tulum
- Mahahual
We won’t do everything, so any tips would be great! I’m also unsure if renting a car is the best option.
