Trip report: Albania, April 2026
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A little trip report from an 11-day journey to Albania at the end of April 2026, with two friends in their early sixties and beyond... Our route: Berat, Gjirokastër, Himarë, Tirana Here are some opinions, tips, and great deals to share: Flight Round-trip Beauvais-Tirana: Ryanair, 260 € with checked baggage (20 kg) and seat selection. Flight was fine and on time. 2h 30min flight. Exchange: 1 € was worth 95 lek in April 2026. We were advised to exchange in the airport hall at the Illiria counter (98 lek outside the security zone), saying we wouldn’t find a better rate. However, the exchange rate was 93 lek for 1 euro, while in the city it was 95... Car rental at Tirana airport for 9 days via Booking.com: 144 € (56 € for the car rental and 88 € for optional full insurance deductible waiver). Wheego agency: the car was fine, but be careful when signing the contract—they tried to convince us that the insurance taken through Booking didn’t cover everything and insisted we take their own insurance for 250 €... We refused. After reading about driving in Tirana, instead of starting our trip by visiting the capital, we decided to head straight to Berat upon arrival and return the car at the end of the trip to explore the city on foot. This turned out to be a great choice! Accommodations: All our stays were booked via Booking.com. Everyone prefers to be paid in euros and in cash—they mention this when booking. Berat: 2-hour drive from the airport. Accommodation: Vila Arben Elezi: 135 € for 3 nights with breakfast and private parking. The room was decent and clean but a bit dark, located slightly below ground level near the parking. However, the breakfast on the rooftop was excellent, especially with the stunning view of the "city of a thousand windows." Great location. Berat was our favorite—there are lovely walks through the different neighborhoods on both sides of the river, each with a very different vibe. The citadel visit is also fascinating, as it’s like a small town within the fortress. The walk along the river is pleasant, with plenty of restaurant choices. Other restaurants in the old town are also very nice. The White House Restaurant, on the first floor along the road, is good and offers a great view of the Gorica district. Gjirokastër: Accommodation: Te Ajdini Guest House: 120 € for 3 nights with breakfast. A private home stay. There’s free parking just before entering the city, a 5-minute walk from the accommodation, which is very convenient since the cobblestone streets are narrow and parking is tricky. Yes, it’s a climb to get to the place, but everything in this city is uphill... The room was bright and clean. Breakfast was very good, hearty, and served in the courtyard with a view of the castle. The guesthouse is a 5-minute walk from the city center (the bazaar) but in a quiet area. Restaurants: Rrapi and Kujtimi—good and affordable with their little pergolas. The old town of Gjirokastër is charming but very touristy, with streets packed with souvenir shops and restaurant tables and chairs. Lots of people. -The bunker visit (near the tourist office) is very interesting: Cold War Tunnel. The castle offers a beautiful view of the city. -Visit to the Ottoman house Skenduli: very well done. Don’t forget to climb the ladder facing a trapdoor in the ceiling to see the roof’s framework—it’s like a forest of beams: impressive! -The bridge Ura e Ali Pasha: A steep 45-minute climb from the city to the site is worth it, but once you reach the viewpoint (which is stunning), you have to go back down a path to reach the bridge. You can drive to the viewpoint, but parking is very tricky. Around Gjirokastër: -Just outside the city: Lake Liqeni i Viroit: a nice, ordinary-looking lake, but at the end, there’s a natural spring making the water crystal clear and a brilliant blue—really spectacular, like photos of Blue Eye near Sarandë. -Drive to Përmet along the gorges: beautiful viewpoints along the way and lovely countryside. Himarë: Accommodation: Vila Kosteli: 120 € for 2 nights with breakfast—slightly overpriced for this type of place but very close to a small beach and not far from the promenade with all the restaurants. Private parking, but very tight (4 cars on a tiny lot along the road). The "sea view" room is a bit obstructed by the building across the street. However, the rooftop breakfast view is beautiful. Friendly staff. Himarë is a pleasant seaside resort, quite calm (but it was April...). There’s a cute promenade with restaurants along the beach. The castle on the heights of Himarë is worth a visit. Around Himarë: -Qeparo is worth a quick stop, but Qeparo village is really worth the detour: a village lost in the heights after a scenic drive up from the coastal road—narrow but well-maintained. Beautiful view from the top and a charming village. -The Big Bunker and Llogora Panorama: take a right turn several kilometers after Dhermi—a road that climbs steeply from the start... A breathtaking winding road that reaches 900 meters in altitude. The view is stunning. -Several small villages between Dhermi and Himarë are worth a quick stop. -Porto Palermo Castle is somewhat disappointing. Tirana: Taxi from Tirana airport to the city center: 15 € with electric taxis (Green Taxi, Bee Taxi, Do Taxi). Accommodation: Hotel Nevi Apartment: 63 € for 2 nights. A private apartment in an older building but very clean and well-equipped, with a kitchen and small enclosed balcony. Great welcome and contact—the owner even booked a taxi for our departure. Very well located, close to the main square, shops, and restaurants. A small supermarket nearby is perfect for stocking up on breakfast supplies. The city is lively and dynamic, with plenty of green spaces and promenades. Buildings are popping up everywhere, often with surprising architecture—like a building shaped like a face, a huge golden cube, and many others under construction. -Sky Tower: at the top, a rotating bar offers a 360° view of the city and its buildings. Drinks are a bit pricier than usual, but it’s totally worth it (6 € for a beer or a glass of white wine, 3 € for coffee). We were there for sunset, and it was amazing! A must-do. Arrive early, as it fills up quickly. -The House of Leaves: a house used for secret surveillance and interrogations during the dictatorship... A great way to learn about the surveillance systems of that era. -Bunk’Art 2: a bunker in the heart of the city—very interesting, covering the dictatorship period and its system... -The Pazari i Ri Bazaar: the new bazaar district. The large hall is worth a visit, but souvenir prices are often higher than elsewhere... The area is nice. Restaurant: Kastrati Restaurant—a bit like a canteen with lots of traditional dishes. It’s on the first floor of a building. Excellent value for money, and the waitress explains the dishes in French.

That’s a little overview of our trip and my personal impressions! Albania is a beautiful and pleasant country to visit. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Exchange rate: 1 € was worth 95 lek in April 2026. We were advised to exchange in the airport hall at the Illiria counter (outside the security zone) and that we wouldn’t find a better rate. But the exchange rate was 93 lek for 1 €, while in town it was 95...

Hi there, I don’t know of a single airport where the exchange rate is better than in town. Personally, I always exchange the minimum at the airport. In Tirana, there isn’t a huge difference.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
GU Guy1 Veteran ·
Yeah, that’s usually what I do, and I’ve been doing it for ages... but I’d read on several travel blogs and sites that the exchange rate was better than in town... shows you can’t always trust travel blogs and sites! But like you said, luckily there wasn’t much of a difference!
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Restaurant: Kastrati restorant: a bit like a canteen, with loads of traditional dishes. It’s on the first floor of a building. Great value for money, and the waitress explains the different dishes in French.

Yes, a really good spot (simple but quality meals) for lunch; I think they’re actually closed in the evening. Just a 2-minute walk from the London Hotel, there’s another great place (super friendly welcome).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
GU Guy1 Veteran ·
Yep, I can confirm that Kastrati is closed in the evening—we unfortunately found that out the hard way. What a shame!

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