What to see and do in Banja Luka?
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
PO
Hi there, After booking an Airbnb last January for this summer’s vacation in Sarajevo... My "host" canceled our reservation without any reason—this has never happened to me before.

Of course, now it’s impossible to find a place to stay at a "normal" price in Sarajevo with parking... So we’re falling back on the capital of the Republika Srpska, Banja Luka, which had already crossed my mind before I booked Sarajevo.

I already have quite a few ideas in mind, without having dug too deep into the region yet. But if anyone has already been there and has suggestions? Even for restaurants—I’m all ears!

And even if it’s not right next door, I’m planning to spend a day in Sarajevo!
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Hi there,

Too bad you didn’t go for the deep end of the contrast by choosing Pale, just 20 km from Sarajevo but a whole different world.

Michel
MA Mathews Globetrotter ·
Hey, why book an Airbnb? There are definitely plenty of cheap little hotels there. As for Banja Luka, I’ve never been, but Sarajevo is still worth the detour. To state the obvious, it’s where the West meets the East. There are a few mosques.
PO Pourrez ·
In Sarajevo, hotels were definitely more expensive. Especially in the city center with private parking. Edit: and I wanted to be close to the center to have a quiet drink/coffee with the family in the evening.

I'm open to suggestions from those who've already been to Banja Luka. Even though my itinerary is pretty much set, I can still make changes if there's a great tip! :)
MA Mathews Globetrotter ·
Good evening! The city of Sarajevo isn’t very big—I remember pleasant pedestrian streets with small shops. And then the surrounding scenery is magnificent. I remember a cable car ride up through a beautiful forest.
PO Pourrez ·
Life is full of twists and turns, and so is this trip.

We were supposed to spend 12 days in Sarajevo... But in the end, we settled for 8 days in Banja Luka.

Unless something unexpected happens, we’ll now be spending 8 full days in Banja Luka and 3 full days in Sarajevo! So exciting! It’s all booked, so unless a hotel scams us or the car breaks down, we’re in for a great vacation!

The itinerary for Banja Luka is set. Now, just the 3 days in Sarajevo to plan—I’ll look into it tomorrow, but the old town, a soccer match in Sarajevo that lines up perfectly with my dates, and a cable car ride up to Trebević are already on the agenda! Especially since I’d bought an old guidebook for lack of a better option a few months back... And what do I see at Cultura just two days ago? The *Petit Futé* 2026/2027 Bosnia guide!!!

I’ve picked out a few ideas, but I’ve planned one day against their advice. And there’s a city not even mentioned in their guide that looks absolutely stunning!!!
PO Pourrez ·
Got back today—how lucky I was that my Sarajevo Airbnb got canceled!

Banja Luka was amazingly cool! I also had a blast during my 4 days in Sarajevo (just like in Mostar a few years ago).

But out of the three, Banja Luka clearly takes the prize!

What a gorgeous city, and so clean! The Orthodox cathedrals are incredible—one huge one is nearly finished, just as majestic as the Church of Christ the Saviour...

I’ve never seen a city this clean! Even in Switzerland. Girls in mini skirts walk around without getting weird looks! The guys are super well-built. Not everyone smiles, but as soon as you’re struggling with info or a misunderstanding about an order at a bar, for example, you get a smile and help right away!

Not to mention that Banja Luka is way cheaper than Sarajevo for accommodation, but especially for food and drinks!

I’ll talk in €: 0.25 € per kilo of watermelon 0.90 € for a large iced coffee at a bar 1 € for a beer (Nectar) at a bar 0.90 € for a fruit juice at a bar 5 € for a local-style kebab + drink At a bakery, you can get a meal + drink for 3 €

And if you’re in a wheelchair, go for it! The sidewalks and pedestrian crossings are ALL designed for you!

What about driving? No speeding, and pedestrian crossings are always respected!

The architecture is stunning!

Since I love football, I had a great time going into the housing projects to photograph graffiti celebrating BORAC, the city’s football club (and Bosnia’s champions, by the way). It adds color to the blocks and is beautifully done. No issues with the locals.

The riverbanks for walking are great. Watch out for vipers, though! They’re everywhere in the water—stick to swimming at the "beach" or it’s risky since you see so many!

I loved Sarajevo too! But no one lets you cross at pedestrian crossings—they honk and speed. In both cities, though, no one wears helmets on motorcycles.

Sarajevo is really dirty—trash everywhere, beggars everywhere. Roma, amputees, old women lying down with their hands out... Same with people in wheelchairs begging, their legs in visibly bad shape... But I think it’s a scam... The cops were constantly chasing them away?!

But the city has its charm! And a powerful history! I visited a museum about their war.

In Banja Luka, they were commemorating (mourning) a 1995 pogrom against Serbs. I saw speeches in front of the large Orthodox cathedral—all the TV stations were there, and there were patriotic songs. I also watched an open-air cinema screening a 1.5-hour film about the anti-Serb pogrom carried out by Croats that evening.

The next day, I attended a small military gathering of the Republika Srpska.

I went to Travnik (great), Bosanska Krupa (great), and Prijedor (nice, contrary to what the latest *Futé* guide says).

On the way there, it took 15 minutes to cross the Croatia/Bosnia border. On the way back, 2.5 hours without AC in 42°C heat... haha

The Slovenia/Croatia border hasn’t existed (no checks) for a month now, apparently—great! The roads in Bosnia are better than Croatia’s highways, which are full of potholes! Unbelievable!

The only downside in Republika Srpska? Trucks on small roads overtaking even when you’re already going 80... Cars behave well, though!

I’ll add that Sarajevo is more expensive than Banja Luka, but the city had to develop—many locals drive the same cars as we do. I was hoping, like in Mostar a few years ago, to see Yugos and especially tons of Golf 1s...

I’ll have to go back. I missed a Borac match (they played on Thursday when we left for Sarajevo), but I did get to go into their empty stadium... And I missed the FK Sarajevo match, which was relocated 48 hours before the game because their stadium was too run-down...
PO Pourrez ·
If anyone is planning to travel by train in Bosnia. From what I understood, there are the Bosnian railway company and the Republika Srpska railway company...

The latter has gone bankrupt. There’s no longer a station in Banja Luka—it’s completely empty. I walked all the way there hoping to photograph old trains on the platforms!

A man was really curious about what I was doing there, and since I didn’t have a phone, he went to get his so we could use Google Translate... That’s when he explained the company had gone bankrupt and no trains were running.

I checked out the station in Prijedor because there’s an old locomotive from the 1940s on display nearby... I went inside the station! Wow!!! 😮 It’s like something out of an urbex photo! Amazing, but it feels like time stopped 30 years ago! Not a soul in sight, yet so beautiful at the same time!

I’ll add that in Bosnia, you won’t find any McDonald’s because there simply aren’t any left. Good for them! Anyway, I don’t see how it could compete taste-wise or price-wise with the other delicious street food! On the other hand, in the Republika Srpska, you’ll find T-shirts glorifying Putin and Ratko pretty much everywhere... But you won’t see any Bosnian flags—only the Republika Srpska flag is everywhere. The police are also completely different from the rest of Bosnia (uniforms and vehicles). Surprisingly, you’ll find national team jerseys, tracksuits, and all that. I thought about buying a tracksuit in Sarajevo... Mistake—there, you’ll find tons of jerseys but never any tracksuits... bummer! 😕

As for stray dogs, there were a few in Banja Luka. But in Sarajevo, in the early morning, the parks are packed with them—I have no idea where they go during the day... But never any aggressive dogs.

Diesel is at 1.60 € (better than back home, but it must’ve gone up anyway). By the way, on the highway in Italy, it was 2.67 €! (I put in 10 liters to get to Slovenia)

A pack of Winstons at the tobacco shop is 3.10 €. I’m not a smoker, but I can see how that might make some people jealous!

Speaking of smoking, in both cities, young people—some still minors—smoke. But in the two big cities I visited, I never smelled cannabis!!! Unlike back home, where even in small villages, you can tell it’s around...

I visited Travnik, as I mentioned earlier—the town is nice. But it’s super touristy; the number of tourists is mind-blowing (mostly from the Gulf and South Asia, I’d say).

Same with Jajce.

Bosanska Krupa wasn’t in my 2027 guidebook... I found this little town by scrolling on Street View one evening... It’s worth a look!

I combined Prijedor with a visit to Kozara Park. Prijedor is great for football lovers—its stadium is a gem! Old-school, run-down, covered in local ultras’ graffiti, and the stadium was open, so I took advantage. The town itself is also nice and peaceful. Personally, I really liked it! It’s very photogenic too!

In Sarajevo, we stayed right next to FK Sarajevo’s stadium (so up high), but it’s a quick 25-minute walk down... Nearby, there’s also the "Vidovdan Heroes" chapel—it’s named that way... Its crypt holds the remains of the twelve members of Young Bosnia who assassinated Archduke Franz Ferdinand on June 28 (Vidovdan, a Serbian holiday) in 1914, including Gavrilo Princip, who fired the shots. (All their names are engraved on marble.)

The old town is great, and in the morning, you’ll have it all to yourself... The river is sad to see, but the riverside walk is nice... We walked all the way to Željezničar Sarajevo’s stadium—it was open, and the surrounding neighborhoods are... literally marked by the last war (1992–1995)... The facades are incredible to see!

We went up the Avaz Tower for the view. Meh... but the glass elevator is worth it. We found out the next day that the best view is actually from the Yellow Bastion! You can go even higher to the Vratnik Fortress (which we did), but the trees block the view. Plus, it’s usually paid! Glad we didn’t have to pay—yes, the guard was on the phone arguing with his boss about making it free that morning! Win!

If you go up there, 50 meters away, there’s the restaurant "Bijela Tabija"... We had a drink, and the terrace overlooks the other side of the city! It’s amazing—almost nothing there, just complete calm...

Oh, and parking was free the whole trip—just park 1 or 2 km away from the tourist hotspots... and take the chance to walk a bit and see the authentic side!

Mostar left a great impression on me... But this time, I think I’ve fallen in love with these two cities like never before. Shoutout to Banja Luka!

I already know I’ll be back!

Edit: And for Sarajevo, I know I only scratched the surface in 3 full days... I chose to focus *only* on Sarajevo and left the car at the hotel... But there were so many other places to see near the capital—I know it...
MA Mathews Globetrotter ·
Thanks, this is really informative! 🙂 I assume the famous Mostar Bridge has been rebuilt?
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Hello,

Your contribution is truly remarkable.

It highlights the complexity of Europe—things those who just "visit a country" never discover or understand.

Thanks.

Michel
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Yes, it was rebuilt exactly as it was. And tourists have largely returned.

Édifices religieux : concours de photos amical d'août 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de voter !
PO Pourrez ·
@Mathews I didn’t reply because I thought it was irony. 😏😮 I went there in 2018 to Mostar—he was already there. According to the web, it was rebuilt in 2004.

Here are a few photos of Banja Luka... I wrote "banja" on the photos—I’m a little paranoid and worried someone might use them for a fake website... Even though I imagine that with AI, removing the text isn’t hard...
PO Pourrez ·
More photos of Banja Luka.

The kiosks selling cold drinks are the best. And they cost next to nothing. Placed on every street corner, they save you from lugging around a bottle and a backpack!

In Sarajevo, there are fewer kiosks, but there are mosques everywhere, and where there’s a mosque, there’s a fresh-water fountain out front... 😎
PO Pourrez ·
Still in Banja Luka
PO Pourrez ·
Here are a few of the hundred photos I took of graffiti glorifying BORAC Banja Luka. As soon as you leave the touristy hyper-center, there isn’t a single building that doesn’t have graffiti celebrating Borac (or Ratko...) in its colors.

Edit: I can send photos of Sarajevo (though I think the web is already full of them) or of the less touristy Prijedor... or Bosanska Krupa if you’d like. 😉

Fun fact (!): I almost forgot—Sarajevo has a danger that always comes from the sky... Never happened to me before, not even once... second day... My wife, our daughter, and I walk out of a bakery... Bag in hand... we stand in the shade... WHAM, a huge bird dropping lands on the bag! 😮 We end up eating in the sun... mid-afternoon... WHAM! A second dropping hits my arm!!! 😮😕 And of course, an hour later—never two without three—a heavy one lands right on my head in a crowded area. I touch it with my hand, thinking, "No way!" But yep! 😄 Luckily, mosques often have soap in addition to fountains...

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