Nous venons de prendre nos billets d'avions pour Agadir début avril.
Nous avons 10 jours sur place et on souhaite faire une boucle au départ Agadir.
Nous aimerions aller dans le désert et finir une journée et une nuit à Marrakech.
Si vous avez des conseils à nous donner pour organiser notre Road trip.
Bonjour,
C'est exactement le même trajet que je conseillerais, à condition d'avoir une voiture de location.
Avec les transports en commun, il faudrait revoir certains tronçons.
Je viens de tout faire (en sens inverse) en transports publics. Soit le bus soit des grands taxis (des modernes. Confort).
Ca le fait. Juste un peu plus lent a cause des temps d attente des grands taxis. Mais nous on partait pas tres tot. Donc...
Du vecu 😉
C'est cool !
du coup, tu as fait Zagora- Foum Zguid -Tazenakht avec changement de taxi à Foum Zguid ?
En combien de temps à peu près ?
Le taxi s'est facilement rempli ?
et dernière question : sais-tu si c'est faisable en bus ?
(pourquoi es-tu 🙁 de me répondre "oui m'dame" ??? 😉 ).
On a fait zagora foul zguid en bus beldi (je viens de verifier mes notes). Puis ensuite foum zguid tazenahk en grand taxi.
Ensuite tazenahk taroudant en grand taxi mais la y avait aussi un bus ctm possible.
On a attendu environ 15 mn a chaque depart en grand taxi.
Comme le bus beldi fait tan tan zagora je vais faire l essai en janvier.
La je me repose je me suis abimee une cote en tombant a mirleft. En ville 🙁
C est douloureux +++
Enfin je suis contente f avoir fait ce trajet plein sud (ou savoir que je peux) en transports co. C est pas avoir decouvert la face nord des grandes jorasses mais c est sympa.🙂
En voiture de location c est donc tt a fait faisable.
Mes coups de coeur et endroits sympa :
Agadir : vue de la baie depuis les ruines du haut de la colline
Le souk el.had.
Taroudant : le tour des remparts. En fin d apres midi la lumiere est magnifique. Y a un endroit ou l on peut monter sur ces remparts.
Tazenahk : j y ai juste transite. Mais l environnemt est superbe.
La route est magnifique
Foum zguid : le vieux village est a explorer. Kasbah en majeure partie en ruine, il y reste encore deux trois familles. Adossee a une partie habitee non en ruines.
Derriere l auberge de l.oasis.
Idem l environnement de montagnes est de toute beaute.
En face sur les flancs un village ancien et des cabanes de berger. Belles balades.
Zagora
La belle palmeraie est a ne pas rater avec les rives du draa et les habitats et hameaux en pise.
Sur la gauche des quartiers anciens quand on entre dans zagora depuis marrakech.
Traverser le quartier et trouver une des pistes qui descendent vers les jardins.
Agdz j ai juste traverse.
Mais la rive opposee du draa est une immense palmeraie qui longe l oued sur plusieurs dizaines de km. Je ne m y suis pas encore baladee. Ca viendra.
Ouarzazate. Bien que decriee j aime bien.
Ville peinarde.
Les studios atlas viennent d etre renoves et meritent une visite.
Le grand souk du dimanche
Le souk de Tabounte le samedi.
La kasbah du glaoui de taourirt. Visite pas besoin de guide et ensuite en sortant la boutique de tapis sur la gauche : ce sont les anciennes cuisines de la kasbah. A voire. Le marchand laisse visiter sans probleme.
Ensuite faire le detour pour passer a ait benhaddou puis Telouet par la belle vallee de l Oulina.
Partout faut ouvrir les yeux. Montagnes, ergs, nomades et leurs campements, troupeaux et leurs bergers, villages .... Que de beaute.
On va louer une voiture c'est plus simple pour circuler librement.
Quel sont les sites à ne pas louper dans cette région?
Bonjour
perso quand j'arrive par Agadir je préfère descendre un peu par la côte pour longer l'océan , normal j'habite en montagne et j'aime voir de l'eau !😎
avec une pose à Aglou ou Sidi Ifni
puis Tafraout ,
l'oasis d'Amtoudi et ensuite la route qui rejoint Zagora
et ensuite retour par la magnifique vallée du Draa !
Aït Benhaddou , Telouet , Tichka , Marakech ...
il y a tellement à découvrir dans ce beau pays !
il faut faire des choix !
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
je prends le fil de cette discussion qui je pense peut me donner réponse à mes questions
En voiture de location la boucle (début mars 2019)
Tata Foum Zguid Tazenahk Taroudant est elle intéressante , beaux paysages halte avec intérêt et les étapes nécessaires pour ne pas passer 8 h sur la route
Nous n'avons pas l'intention de passer du temps à Taroudant mais peut être y faire une étape , nous cherchons un hébergement si possible couleur locale , et pas dans la médina, pour ne pas vivre une galère avec le parking. J'ai vu Tioute mais avis du forum ne plaident pas en sa faveur
J ai parcouru cette toute tata foum zguid tazenakh taroudant . C est une route magnifique sans probleme. Pas de 8 h de route entre chaque.
Foum.zguid j ai loge a l auberge de l oasis pres du vieux village et de la palmeraie. Tres chouette. Je recommande.on se gare devant.
Taroudant j etais en medina. Mais chez yves ? Ma soeur y est allee et a apprecie. Pour la voiture je ne sais pas.
Pour l’auberge de l’oasis vous réservez avec Booking.com ?
J’essaye en principe de privilégier en direct pour éviter les commissions à l’hébergeur . Mais d’un autre côté il me semble que c’est peut-être , à tort, de s’assurer de la bonne prise en compte de la réservation.
Balades : le vieux villlage . Ruines et maisons habitees melees. On tourne et retourne dans ces vestiges de vies passees. La petite palmeraie attenante.
La colline en.face ou l in voit des cabanes.
On a pris nos repas une fois a l auberge les autres fois dans les gatgotes cafes restaus de la place.
Ambiance village.
Le petit souk du jeudi... Si vous y etes. Campagnard.
Il y a quelques années nous avons fait étape 2 fois à l’oasis de Fint proche de Ouarzazate, nous avions beaucoup aimé le calme ainsi que l’hébergement très authentique et convivial
On avance un peu sur notre parcours de 10 jours au Maroc du 30 mars au 10 avril.
On arrive à Agadir vers 12h le samedi 30 mars.
On aimerait partir directement après avoir récuperer la voiture.
Voici une idée de notre parcours:
Route jusqu'au barrage Yousset IBN Tachfin
Lagzira
Amtoubi (par quelle route?)
Les gorges d'Aït Mansour
Tafraout
Jebel LKST
Foum Zguid
Zagora
M'Hamid El Ghizlane
1 nuit dans le désert
Tazenakht ou Agdz
Ouarzazate
Aït Ben Haddou
Tizi n'Tichka
Telouet
Marrakech
retour à agadir le 9 avril au soir pour un départ le 10 avril à 9h25
Nous n'avons pas encore décidé des endroits ou dormir.
Si vous avez des conseils sur le parcours et les hebergements.
De lazguira vers amtoudi sans avoir la carte sous les yeux je dirais par tiznit et guelmim
Tiznit deux adresses hotel de paris bien et hotel des voyageurs bien mais plus routard.
Guelmin deux adresses hotel Salam renove completement tres bien et hotel ijguiden top proprete mais plus routard.
Tafraout auberge arganier des amelnes. Tres jolie et piscine sympa.
Foum.zguid sympathique aussi auberge de l.oasis situee sur une grandr place en bas a cote du vieux village et de la petite palmeraie.
Zagora hotel KARIM SAHARA
Sur le routard
Salut,
Une alternative, version "courte":
De Foum-Zguid, une agence locale pourra te conduire à Chegaga, .
Ce sera sans doute, la Piste "Orangina", Iriki, Chegaga. Le retour pouvant se faire "+ Nord" en logeant le pied du djebel Bani.
L'aventure désertique terminée, tu pourras rejoindre ton itinéraire.
L’avantage du truc, est de gagner un peu de temps (tu évites Zagora), que tu pourrais consacrer à MRK.
Pour le reste, il me semblerait préférable de faire:
D'abordTafraoute, puis,
Les "Rochers peints",
La "boucle" Aît-Mansour et retour Tafraoute.
Puis rte vers Foum-Zguid (longue étape).
Bonne prépa,
Razul
Salut,
Une agence ? Non, je n'en connais pas puisque 4x4 perso;
En ville, il y a des "panneaux et autres officines;
Peut- être que Nenet, pourrait devenir ton ami ?
Bonne prépa,
Razul
Razul a raison. Les "agences" se trouvent sur place. Tous les hebergements de mahmid vous proposent un bivouac dans les dunes. Plus ou moins loin, en dromadaire ou en 4.4 a tous les prix. Ca commence a 35-40 euros/personne le bivouac en 1/2 pension.
Foum zguid : pour dormir (et se restaurer aussi) j ai trouve plus sympa qu Iriki (que je connais aussi). c est l auberge oasis qui se trouve en bas pres du vieux ksar. Jolie confort et pas chere.
J y ai dormi et petit dej. On peut manger sur les petits restaus de la place. Samedi matin petit souk a cote.
A Guelmin meme (j y etais encore ce matin) il n.y a pas grand chose a faire Hormis le grand souk samedi matin avec des dromadaires a vendre.
Mais a 10 km il y a l oasis de tighmert qui est tres jolie. Avec des hebergements cool.
Y rester deux jours ca peut faire une halte sympa.
Au frais des palmiers.
Pas loin il y a Fask ou l on peut si c est ouvert voire tourner le moulin a huile avec la mule. Il n y en a plus beaucoup tout se modernise tres vite.
Tafraout peut etre aussi un lieu de deux nuits . Ds l auberge deja citee l arganier des amelnes et sa piscine. De quoi faire de belles balades a pied.
Je confirme Tighmert, nous y étions ce début de semaine, une adresse vraiment très bien la maison de l’homme bleu .
La visite de fask est à mon avis la plus intéressante du secteur
Nous sommes à Tafraout et l’auberge de l’arganier est la bonne adresse que les intervenants du forum recommandent à raison.
Le site mérite bien un jour de plus
On aurait pu se croiser alors. Je suis allee deux fois sur tighmert et une fois a Fask. Aussi debut de semaine.
Mais j ai loge sur guelmim et je me deplacais en grand taxi.
Quelle belle region.
Tafraout aussi d ailleurs.
Pour vous donner le temps d arrets photos etc, oui c est une bonne idee. Je.ne me rappelle plus ou on avait loge a tata et je n arrive pas a acceder a mon blog maroc.
nous avions envisagé d’aller à Tata, le résultat de mes recherches sont dans la discussion du 8 janvier 2019
Sidi Ifni via Guelmin. Igherm via Tata
Désolé je ne sais pas comment transmettre les coordonnées d’une discussion
Si vous le souhaitez je peux vous rechercher le numéro de téléphone du camping de Tata
Salut,
Tata ? mon dernier passage date de 5 ans. , le premier de 10 ans. Les choses ont donc peut-être changées;
Le coin est sympa, la "Bibiche " Incontournable, mais l'hébergement n'était pas terrible.
Le Relai des sables: Accueil vraiment limite, propreté aléatoire; Souvent, ils accueillent des groupes (Espagnols) et se foutent du reste.
La Renaissance, il se dit qu'ils ont perdu la serpillière et ne sont pas pressés de la retrouver.
Dans "Tata-ville", je n'ai trouvé que n'est trucs vraiment limite, à la propreté plus que douteuse.
Il y aurait un machin (au nord du bled), façon "Riad pour riche", mais les retours ne sont pas fameux......
Si une info sympa, bien des voyageurs seront preneurs.......
Désolé...
A+ ?
Razul
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Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening
Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada
Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon
Day 6: Luxor
Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon
Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada
Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van.
Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques
Hi there,
I have a layover in Algeria.
I won’t be leaving the airport.
The two tickets aren’t with the same airline.
Do I need a transit visa?
Thanks for any details and your help!
Hi there,
I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days.
We’ll be renting a car to get around.
Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy?
My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal!
Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!
Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges.
Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime.
If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving...
Happy to answer any questions!
Hi there,
I’m traveling solo to Egypt. Could you give me a rough idea of the budget for:
meals
hotels
taxis including tips
visits...
Just an estimate, of course.
For 15 days, what would the price range be, considering there’s an overnight train and a Nile cruise?
I’d like to compare with a travel agency. Is it more worthwhile to go through an agency despite the downsides of group travel?
Otherwise, if a travel buddy is interested in this country, why not?
Thanks a lot!