Je suis en Ouganda depuis maintenant 3 mois. Avant mon depart, j'ai trouve peu d'info. J'en delivre donc sur ce post.
Tout d'abord, j'insiste sur le fait que le pays est tranquille. n'ecoutez pas les personnes qui n'ont jamais mis un pied en Ouganda. Le peuple est extremenent accueillant. Pas de tourisme de masse malgres un pays splendide et tres diversifie.
La nourriture est saine, les amateurs des produits bio seront au paradis! On trouve pratiquement de tout, fruits, legumes et viandes. Le pays est extremement fertile dans son ensemble (a part la partie semi-desertique du nord est).
C'est un pays eleve a plus de 1000m d'altitude, donc climat tempere tres agreable. Temperatures entre 20 et 27 degres celcius. Pour ce qui est de la saison des pluies, elle s'etend de septembre a novembre et de mars a mai. A noter que je trouve la saison des pluies plutot agreable. Il pleut generalement le matin puis il fait grand beau.
Pourquoi choisir l'Ouganda?
1- Rencontrer le peuple, qui aime beaucoup les Muzungu (=les blancs). Vous verrez souvent sur la route les gamins courrir vous saluer en criant "Muzungu, how are you?". N'hesitez pas a aller au devant d'eux, leur serrer la main et discuter.
2- Les parcs naturels - J'ai fait les parcs d'Afrique du Sud. C'est vrai que les troupeaux y sont plus dense cote animaux. Mais rien de comparable avec avec la beaute des parcs naturels d'Ouganda. Une vegetation genereuse, des montagnes, la savane, des lacs (25% de la surface de l'Ouganda est couverte d'eau avec notemment le lac Victoria, Edward, Georges, Bunyonyi...). Chaque parc a sa particularite, les principaux:
- Queen Elisabethe National Parc (QENP): Entoure d'eau (lac Edward et lac Georges), 95 especes de mammifere. Voir la partie Nord du Parc sur la peninsule de Mweya et la partie sud avec Isasha pour voir les fameux lions arboricoles (grimpent dans les arbres)
- Murchinson Falls: Chutes d'eau spectaculaires, 76 mammiferes
- Kidepo: Partie semi aride du pays. Frontiere avec le Soudan. Je n'y suis pas allee. Mais tres recommande...
3- Les gorilles. J'ai eu l'immense chance de les observer dans la foret impenetrable de Bwindi. Incroyable experience.
4- Les chimpanzes. Vous aurez l'opportunite de les rencontrer dans plusieurs endroits. Je vous recommande particulierement la foret de Kibale pour les observer, a cote de Fort Portal.
5- Crateres Lakes - Region de Fort Portal. Une region volcanique parsemee de lacs en altitudes, de champs de the et de bananiers. Rwenzori en arriere plan. Superbe.
6- Rwenzori - Ouest du pays (frontiere avec le Congo). Plus grande chaine de montagne d'Afrique. Pic Margheritaa a 5109m.
7- Le Nil - Sources du Nil a Jinja. Superbe. J'ai fait du rafting avec ADRIFT. Les rapides sont magnifiques.
7- Lac Bunonyi - Superbe lac de 60km2 (frontiere avec Rwanda), a 1800m d'altitude (les nuits sont fraiches..). Ce lac est parseme de 20 petites iles et entoure de collines couvertes de jardins en terrasse (pour la culture).
Itineraire recommande:
Vous atterirez surement a Entebbe. Je vous recommande de reserver un VAN 4X4 avec un chauffeur. Je peux vous en recommander si vous le souhaitez, au prix de 60 euros par jour (chauffeur et VAN compris, il faudra payer l'essence en plus). A noter que le VAN peut accueillir 9 personne mais je recommande 6 max pour etre bien a l'aise).
Itineraire:
Nuit 1- Kampala, au Kabira Country Club - 80USD la nuit pour une chambre double.
Nuits 2&3 - Murchinson Fall . Compter 5 bonnes heures de route. dormir au Red Chili Camp. http://www.redchillihideaway.com/paraa.htm
Nuits 4&5 - Fort Portal, 2 nuits au NDALI Lodge. www.ndalilodge.com
Nuits 5&6 - Queen Elisabeth National Park- Mweya Lodge - ne pas oublier de planifier la balade en bateau! http://www.mweyalodge.com/
Nuits 6&7- Queen Elisabeth Natonal Park - Isasha pour 1 nuit (sud de QENP) - Wilderness Camp
Nuits 7&8- Bwindi - Bwindi Lodge - 2 nuits (arrivee la veille du treck - depart le lendemain du treck) - Il faut acheter les permis aupres de UWA (Authorite de Protection de la vie sauvage) pour pouvoir faire ce tracking. Prevoir d'acheter au moins 3 mois a l'avance. Moi j'ai vu le groupe Habinyanja et je n'ai pas ete decue! J'ai vu le chef, Dos d'Argent, des males, plusieurs meres avec leur bebe et des enfants. Vous pouvez trouver des renseignements et achter votre permis sur ce site gouvernementatl: http://www.uwa.or.ug/. A noter que la chance de voir les gorilles est bien de 100%. C'est tres bien organise. Des pisteurs sont deja pres du groupe de gorille que vous observerez et guideront vos guides. Le tracking pour trouver les gorilles est passionnant. Ce n'est pas facile, aussi je conseille aux personnes non sportives de prendre un porteur qui s'occupera de porter vos affaires et de vous aider au besoin. (10euros...)
Nuit 8- Bunyonyi: Un endroit magnifique je vous laisse decouvrir. Voir les photos. Je vous conseille de dormir au Arcadia Cottages... vue SPLENDIDE et excellent restaurant (lent par contre..). Mangez des crevette! Des travers de porc, le filet de boeuf... miam http://www.traveluganda.co.ug/arcadiacottages/index.html
Nuit 9&10 - Lake Mburo National Park: Pas encore ete. Mais chaudement recommande par mes collegues. Possibilite de rando a cheval dans le parc. Le lodge plebiscite est Mihingo Lodge. www.mihingolodge.com
Nuits 10,11&12- Kampala: retour au Kabira Coutry Club - 3 nuits - et prevoir un excursion d'une journee Jinja pour faire du Rafting avec Adrift. Pour ceux qui craignent le rafting, faites le quand meme en demandant un bateau qui sera tranquille (pas de flip over). http://adrift.ug/ Je recommande aussi une nuit au Wildwater Lodge pour ceux qui ont les moyens. Exceptionnel. Ce lodge ouvrira en juillet 2010. Renseignements aupres d'Adrift egalement.
Les guides: Le Petit Fute, en francais ou mieux mais en anglais, le Bradt
C 'est super sympa de revenir partager et surtout donner plein d informations.
Et en plus ça donne envie.🙂
Il y a même un circuit tout prêt... y a plus qu'à suivre tes traces.
Il me semble que ce genre de destination peut être très sympa pour se retrouver un peu loin des foules ... Qu en penses tu par rapport à l'afrique du sud ?
Merci encore
Franck
Tanzanie-2010
Kawaza Village
Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2037270
Purée Francky...on aura pas assez d'une vie...moi aussi ce post me met l'eau à la bouche.
Merci Mariechocho. Tu as raison, on ose pas penser à l'Ouganda..par ignorance.
Ouvre une agence de location de 4x4 avec tente sur toit et matos de camping : tu as déjà 2 clients potentiels 😎
ça me donne envie de modifier mon itinéraire. J'arrive à Nairobi, avec projet d'aller en Tanzanie, mais voyageant 2 mois, je pense que je pourrai me rendre en Ouganda.
Merci pour toutes ces informations.
bonne journée
Moi j'ai fait les 2 destinations, et franchement, n'hésites pas. Ici tu seras dans une Afrique encore preservée du tourisme et de l'industrialisation. Les paysages sont plus que splendides, et tres variés.
Viens!
Je peux vous mettre en contact avec un bon chauffeur!!
Bonjour et merci pour ce post superbe !
Il se trouve que j'ai réussi à me caser deux semaines de vacances début septembre et que mon rêve d'Ouganda endormi reprend vie.
Deux questions cependant:
- je voyagerai seul (sauf compagnon de dernière minute), quel est dès lors le meilleur moyen de rejoindre Murchinson falls et Queen Elizabeth park. Votre chaufeur à l'air parfait mais 60 euros par jour c'est trop pour moi. Les transports en commun sont ils suffisants (sachant que je n'ai que deux semaines)
- je n'ai pas encore de permis pour les gorilles, est-ce encore possible selon vous ou c'est peine perdue ?
Merci pour tout renseignement utile.
François
Salut François,
Je serai également en Ouganda début septembre avec mon ami (nous arriverons le 29 août, nous repartons le 12 septembre ).
On peut peut-être se contacter si nos dates de visites de certains parcs coïncident, nous comptons louer un 4x4 avec chauffeur, et nous aurons de temps en temps avec nous une amie ougandaise.
Pour les gorilles, nous avons réservé depuis un moment avec UWA (pour le 2 septembre)? Contacte les directement puisque tu es seul avec un peu de chance tu trouveras peut-être un permis pour une date qui te convient, si tu peux le 2 septembre, joins-toi à nous 🙂
Je t'envoie mon mail en MP
Je vais me renseigner pour toi. Peut etre peux tu te joindre a un groupe? Sans voiture, cela va etre dur, car meme ds le parc il t en faudra une. Pr les gorilles c est certainement encore possible. Il faut contacter UWA et leur demander. Quelle serait la date, je peux me renseigner pour toi.
Si d autre lisant ce post seraient intéresses pr 2 semaines a cette période, groupez vous. Faites moi savoir je peux vs organiser le driver.
Pour le 4X4, si vs partez ensemble je vous recommande franchement le VAN toyota 4X4 avec toit ouvrant.
Il est robuste et passe partout, économe, il ne consomme pas beaucoup.
Le toit ouvrant est vraiment a avoir, c est super dommage de faire des safaris sans cela.
Moi perso, je fais l impasse sur la clim. Les fenêtres ouvertes apportent bien suffisamment d air.
Ca donne l'eau à la bouche !
Peux tu en dire plus sur le coup de la vie ? Ca a l'air d'être une destination plutôt chère ...
Dans quel cadre y passes tu 3 mois si ce n'est pas indiscret ?
En fait cela va fait maintenant 5 mois que je suis la et je reste jusque fin février 2011. Suis ici pr le boulot. Je travaille chez Orange.
La vie, hors les lodges classes, n est pas cher du tout. Tu manges dans des restos corrects pour 8000shillings. Note que 1euro=2800 shilling....
Une petite bouteille d eau c est 500shilling en épicerie.
La bonne hôtellerie est cher car elle n'est pas facile a entretenir... imagines un peu maintenir l eau courante et l électricité en pleine savane...
Moi je voyage ds les trucs chers, mais il existe aussi des lodge/hôtels bien meilleurs marches et très biens.
En fait cela va fait maintenant 5 mois que je suis la et je reste jusque fin février 2011. Suis ici pr le boulot. Je travaille chez Orange.
La vie, hors les lodges classes, n est pas cher du tout. Tu manges dans des restos corrects pour 8000shillings. Note que 1euro=2800 shilling....
Une petite bouteille d eau c est 500shilling en épicerie.
La bonne hôtellerie est cher car elle n'est pas facile a entretenir... imagines un peu maintenir l eau courante et l électricité en pleine savane...
Moi je voyage ds les trucs chers, mais il existe aussi des lodge/hôtels bien meilleurs marches et très biens.
Lodge/Hotel bon marche au queen elisabeth:
Lodge Equator - equatorlodge@yahoo.co.uk 100usd pour un chbre double
Mweya Hostel - rift_hostelmweyayahoo.co.uk - rooms 32usd chbre dble
Kookaburra Camp - www.kookaburracamp.com - pas cher du tout moins de 10usd je crois. ils peuvent fournir les tentes.
ici (à Mayotte) aussi les blancs sont les Muzungus.
C'est avec la chair de poule que je lis tous les témoignages de ce site sur l'Ouganda.
Je viens de passer 1 an à Madagascar et j'aime beaucoup l'idée de découvrir un pays en prenant son temps et en y travaillant.
Comment as tu trouver ton boulot chez Orange ?
Je travail dans l'environnement, y a t il des structures dans ce domaines (type bureaux d'études, associations de protection... etc ?). Peut être n'en as tu aucune idée mais si tu as un contact ou quelque chose, je suis preneur.
En tout cas merci pour ton témoignage et pour ta réponse.
Profite bien !
Haaaa, l’Ouganda, que de bons souvenirs ! J’y ai passé 26 jours en février 2010 en individuel sac-à-dos et ca été un voyage merveilleux. Tout est tellement facile en Ouganda.
Pour vous rendre à Murchinson Falls, c’est plutôt compliqué d’y aller si on n’a pas une voiture de location. Ce que j’avais fait, j’avais prit un tour de 3 jours avec Red Chili Backpacker (qui est vraiment génial comme endroit, soit dit en passant) qui comprenait la visite du parc et de la chute du sommet et également une croisière en bateau pour la voir d’en bas.
A part le nord, il est très facile de se déplacer partout ailleurs en Ouganda en « taxi-brousse »(je ne me souviens plus comme ils nomment ce moyen de transport): de Kampala vers le Lac Bunyioni et par le fait même, la visite du groupe de gorilles Nkuringo avec une vue MAGNIFIQUE sur la chaine de montagnes des Virunga jusque vers l’est au Mont Elgon (pourquoi pas du Rafting à Jinja?Sensations garanties!). Kampala est également une ville très interessante (je ne suis pas un amateur des villes, mais j'ai été surpris par son effervescence!)
Je vous suggère fortement de vous munir du Lonely Planet. Je ne sais pas s’il existe une version francaise par contre.
"Je ne sais pas s’il existe une version francaise par contre. "
Non pas de lonely planet français sur cette destination à ma connaissance; il y a un guide petit futé en Français mais que je trouve light comme tous les petits futés;
le bradt aussi est super complet; je l'ai à la maison: se commande par internet
a++😉
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
😇 Incroyablement instructif , n'avez-vous jamais pensé à monter votre propre agence ? Merci beaucoup pour toutes ces informations . Voilà , si vous pouvez nous ( somme deux) conseiller un magnifique itinéraire de 1 semaine (incluant 2 jours pour les gorilles ) , je vous en serai grandement reconnaissant , pas trop dur, et si possible une agence locale ou quelqu'un sur qui on peut compter et les meilleurs lodges que vous avez aimés.
Comment vous remercier ? @ Bientôt , et j'y pense , où êtes-vous maintenant , l'Ouganda vous manque t-il ?
Pour l itineraire 1 semaine c est vraiment short mais faisable. Je l ai fait avec mon pere en incluant les gorilles.... Par contre le pass est maintenant a 700 USD par personne...
Donc voila ce que je suggere: Atterissage Kampala. 1 nuit a Kampala, je recommande Kabira Country Club.
Depart le lendemain matin pour Mweya Lodge dans le grand parc du Queen Elisabeth. Passer 1 nuit sans ce lodge. Ensuite direction le sud de ce meme parc pour etre dans d autres paysages superbe. 1 Nuit dans le Wilderness Camp . Et negociez toujours les prix au fait.
Ensuite direction Bwindi pour decouvrir les gorilles. La je vous laisse le choix il y a pléthore de lodges. Ils sont tous bien.
Ensuite on continue direction Bunyonyi pour 1 nuit : http://www.traveluganda.co.ug/...acottages/index.html pour info le lodge appartient aux parents d une collegue. Vous pouvez appeler de la part de Doreen.
Enfin, soit un last stop a MBURO park et dormez dans le plus beau lodge d Ouganda....www.mihingolodge.com . N oubliez pas de faire la balade a cheval, c est magique.
Et puis retour a Entebbe airport.... soit une derniere nuit au SERENA Entebbe au bord du Lac Victoria soit direct aeroport.
Je vous recommande mon chauffeur ZEDJ. Je peux l appeler pour vous, il sera content d avoir du travail. Il est serieux et connait bien les routes et parks. Beaucoup de collegues sont partis avec et sont revenus enchantes. Sinon, faites attention car certains conduisent comme des fous...
N hesites pas a m ecrire sur mon mail mariec.deraedt@gmail.com car je ne sis pas tres souvents sur le forum.
😏 Hello Chère Marie,
Toujours magnifique, tu as un coeur en or et bienheureux ceux et celles qui ont le privilège de te connaitre !
Pourrais-tu évaluer les distances en heures de conduite ( en gros ) pour les trajets que tu cites , et pour le lodges de Bindwi , quel est celui qui a tes préférences ou un petit choix s'il te plait en cas de "complet" ?
Enfin, quel est le tarif de votre chauffeur Zedj ?
Avec toute ma reconnaissance , God bless you!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
