Trajet de Bamako à Niéma (urgent)
by Arina
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Je suis à Bamako et pensais rentrer par Kayes/ Kiffa mais des personnes qui viennent de faire ce trajet me le déconseillent. Je souhaiterais donc prendre l'option Bamako/Niéma mais j'aimerais avoir des infos récentes sur ce trajet avant de me lancer. Bien sûr je vais me renseigner ici, mais toutes les infos pratiques des gens qui ont fait ce trajet il y a peu me seront utiles. Je suis en 205 diesel. Je pense partir dans 2 jours. D'où l'urgence. Et ma voiture est trop vieille pour passer par le Sénégal...
Arina
salut ma belle!
Alors elle a tenu ta 205. Bravo!!
Je n'ai pas ta réponse mais va dans rechercher des messages et demande ceux de menata: elle donne des infos sur la route (le 30/01 et un peu avant aussi ).Si tu ne trouves pas ce que tu veux envoie lui un message privé. Elle te répondra la belle Olivia.
Tu remontes? Je repars aux alentours du 25. On va peut êtrese croiser?( minibus toyota liteace gris
ce serait drôle
bonne routeN'oublie pas de consulter "mon" nouveau site
http://membres.lycos.fr/assosinesaloum
Bonjour Arina,
me voici de retour et je suis contente de te lire, de savoir que tu vas bien et que la 205 a tenu LE choc! car il y a de belles parties de Rock and roll sur le trajet. Comme toi, je n'avais pas envie de revivre le Far-West entre Nioro et Didieni donc nous sommes partis par le Sénégal donc je donne les infos jusqu'à Kayes. De Bamako tu dois refaire ( hélas) la tôle ondulée entre Didieni et Diema puis ensuite tu as un bon goudron pour Kayes. Pour te donner une idée, on a fait Bamako / Kayes en une grosse journée avec notre Camping -car.
J'attends de tes nouvelles et un coup de fil à ton retour; Bises, anita
me voici de retour et je suis contente de te lire, de savoir que tu vas bien et que la 205 a tenu LE choc! car il y a de belles parties de Rock and roll sur le trajet. Comme toi, je n'avais pas envie de revivre le Far-West entre Nioro et Didieni donc nous sommes partis par le Sénégal donc je donne les infos jusqu'à Kayes. De Bamako tu dois refaire ( hélas) la tôle ondulée entre Didieni et Diema puis ensuite tu as un bon goudron pour Kayes. Pour te donner une idée, on a fait Bamako / Kayes en une grosse journée avec notre Camping -car.
J'attends de tes nouvelles et un coup de fil à ton retour; Bises, anita
J'aime bien la formule 'des parties de R and Roll'. Mon pb est que ma voiture a + de 5 ans. Aviez-vs le mm pb? Ici ils ne st pas très clairs à l'ambassade du Sénégal pour ce pb sur lequel je ne m'étais pas du tout penchée avant de partir car je ne voulais pas me lancer ds les paperasses. Je pensais partir demain, mais je vais peut-être devoir 'durer' un peu plus à Bko!!! Merci pour une réponse rapide...!!!!
Arina
Je lui ai justement envoyé un message privé hier, mais elle ne vit bien sûr pas sur son ordinateur...
Je regrette un peu de ne pas avoir pris le carnet de passage en douane avant d'avoir quitté la France, mais il ne semblait pas y avoir de gros pbs d'après ce qui était dit. Mais en descendant j'ai bien vu que la route Nioro/Diéma était dégueulasse et j'aimerais ne pas renouveller l'expérience car elle peut se révéler dangereuse pour ma voiture. Mais peut-être que la piste Nara/Néma n'est pas si mauvaise en période sèche. On va voir!
A+ MY
Arina
PS - En plus il y a à Nioro un douanier totalement pourri, Monsieur Sissoko pour ne pas le nommer, que je préfèrerais ne pas revoir. Je vais d'ailleurs faire un tour à l'Office du Tourisme de BKO pour dire tout le bien que je pense de lui!
Arina
bienvenue au club ! J'ai aussi eu affaire à ce douanier ripoux!!! nous n'avons pas eu de probléme avec le Sénégal car nos véhicules sont récents.
Sur l'itinéraire que tu envisages il me semble que Papy me l'a déconseillé car cassant et peu sûr.
Peut-être peux tu te renseigner pour mettre ta voiture sur un camion plateau pour le trajet Diema/ Nioro ?
J'essaie de te trouver des infos ce soir dans mes documents bien que j'ai conscience que le temps presse pour toi, ou au moins le numéro de téléphone d'Olivia. Sinon, j'ai séjourné à l'auberge Sahara de Nouakchott ( tenue par un Allemand) et je te donnerais leur téléphone : ils sont de bons conseils.
A plusieurs on doit bien trouver une solution pour t'éviter le Rock au Far West !
Anita
Bon!
un début de réponse sur le site http://www.senegalaisement.com/senegal/formalités_douanieres_senegal.html*
"Le non-résident peut importer un véhicule à titre temporaire avec un carnet de passage en douane ou un carnet ATA en cours de validé.
IL peut également bénéficier pour son véhicule automobile d'un passavent de circulation à son entrée sur le territoire sénégalais. Le passavent est alors établi par le Bureau ou le Poste de Douanes d'entrée, pour une durée n'exédant pas dix (10) jours. Ce passavnt ne peut faire l'objet, au maximum, que de deux (2) prorogations de quize (15) jours chacune, accordées par la Direction des opérations douanières. En tout état de cause, à l'expiration du délai de séjour temporaire, le véhicule doit avant toute cession, être déclaré...etc"
bon, il me reste à trouver le coût du passavent... A demain, Anita
"Le non-résident peut importer un véhicule à titre temporaire avec un carnet de passage en douane ou un carnet ATA en cours de validé.
IL peut également bénéficier pour son véhicule automobile d'un passavent de circulation à son entrée sur le territoire sénégalais. Le passavent est alors établi par le Bureau ou le Poste de Douanes d'entrée, pour une durée n'exédant pas dix (10) jours. Ce passavnt ne peut faire l'objet, au maximum, que de deux (2) prorogations de quize (15) jours chacune, accordées par la Direction des opérations douanières. En tout état de cause, à l'expiration du délai de séjour temporaire, le véhicule doit avant toute cession, être déclaré...etc"
bon, il me reste à trouver le coût du passavent... A demain, Anita
bjr ariana je suis a bamako ma partenaire de voyage a perdu son passe port je suis passé par nioro beaucoup de soucis prendre son temps mais la piste parralelle sa passe J P K
J P K
Merci de te donner tout ce mal pour moi!
Je suis allée sur le site, qui est vraiment très bien. Mon seul petit pb est qu'ils ne parlent pas de l'âge des voitures... Je continue à me renseigner pour les routes vers la Mauritanie. J'ai rencontré une femme qui est passée par Nioro à la mm période que moi et qui a eu du mal. Elle est repassée depuis et elle me dit que maintenant qu'il n'y a plus de boue c'est plus facile, en allant très lentement bien sûr. Elle m'a donné le tel d'une personne qui connait bien ces routes et qui devrait pouvoir me renseigner.
En tout cas je prends mes précautions en faisant poser un protège carter. Par ailleurs si je passe par Nioro je pourrai aussi prendre un malien avec moi à partir de Diéma jusqu'à Nioro contre dédommagement. Il pourrait m'aider en cas de coup dur, car je remonte seule.
Affaire à suivre...
Je suis allée sur le site, qui est vraiment très bien. Mon seul petit pb est qu'ils ne parlent pas de l'âge des voitures... Je continue à me renseigner pour les routes vers la Mauritanie. J'ai rencontré une femme qui est passée par Nioro à la mm période que moi et qui a eu du mal. Elle est repassée depuis et elle me dit que maintenant qu'il n'y a plus de boue c'est plus facile, en allant très lentement bien sûr. Elle m'a donné le tel d'une personne qui connait bien ces routes et qui devrait pouvoir me renseigner.
En tout cas je prends mes précautions en faisant poser un protège carter. Par ailleurs si je passe par Nioro je pourrai aussi prendre un malien avec moi à partir de Diéma jusqu'à Nioro contre dédommagement. Il pourrait m'aider en cas de coup dur, car je remonte seule.
Affaire à suivre...
Arina
Merci pour ton message. Comme tu le vois je suis encore en pleine interrogation...
Arina
bonjour Arina,
le 20 novembre dernier, par mail, Menata m' a déconseillé Kiffa/Kayes et la passe de Soufa avec un véhicule "ordinaire". Mais peut -être y a -t-il une évolution favorable depuis. Je te passe ses coordonées téléphoniques en message privé ainsi que ceux de l'Auberge Sahara qui est elle aussi une bonne base pour les voyageurs que nous sommes. Si tu ne peux pas le lire donnes un numéro sur lequel je ouisse te téléphoner ou envoyer un SMS; quand j' étais à Bamako, je n'ai pas pu te joindre;
Pour l'info Sénégal, d'après ce que j'ai pu glaner, en venant d'un autre pays d'Afrique ( et pas directement d'Europe), et en ne faisant que transiter par le Sénégal, le pasavent devrait suffire. Tu peux te renseigner sur place au Bureau des douanes, 801 route de Koulikkoro à Bamako ( derriére ambassade du Canada).
Je pense que Papy est déjà parti en Afrique car je ne le rencontre pas sur le forum. C'est dommage car sa connaissance nous aurait été précieuse. En tout cas, c'est une bonne idée de partir avec un Malien. Par Contre sur le trajet Nioro/Diema, je n'avais pas de boue mais énormément de sable et des trous géants ( style nids d'autruche) à cause des engins de chantier qui faisaient une piste du style Didieni/Diema. A tout suite en privé Anita
le 20 novembre dernier, par mail, Menata m' a déconseillé Kiffa/Kayes et la passe de Soufa avec un véhicule "ordinaire". Mais peut -être y a -t-il une évolution favorable depuis. Je te passe ses coordonées téléphoniques en message privé ainsi que ceux de l'Auberge Sahara qui est elle aussi une bonne base pour les voyageurs que nous sommes. Si tu ne peux pas le lire donnes un numéro sur lequel je ouisse te téléphoner ou envoyer un SMS; quand j' étais à Bamako, je n'ai pas pu te joindre;
Pour l'info Sénégal, d'après ce que j'ai pu glaner, en venant d'un autre pays d'Afrique ( et pas directement d'Europe), et en ne faisant que transiter par le Sénégal, le pasavent devrait suffire. Tu peux te renseigner sur place au Bureau des douanes, 801 route de Koulikkoro à Bamako ( derriére ambassade du Canada).
Je pense que Papy est déjà parti en Afrique car je ne le rencontre pas sur le forum. C'est dommage car sa connaissance nous aurait été précieuse. En tout cas, c'est une bonne idée de partir avec un Malien. Par Contre sur le trajet Nioro/Diema, je n'avais pas de boue mais énormément de sable et des trous géants ( style nids d'autruche) à cause des engins de chantier qui faisaient une piste du style Didieni/Diema. A tout suite en privé Anita
Papy est en effet en Afrique. IUl était à la rencontre VF de Mopti. Il se trouve que j'ai par hasard rencontré Oliverte au cyber alors qu'il voulait décharger ses photos! C'est en bavardant que j'ai réalisé que c'était un VF... Et j'ai vu la ptoto de groupe en grande première!
Bon voici ce que je vais faire: de tte façon je pars pour Diéma. De là j'essaie de voir si ça passe par la piste parallèle, celle que j'ai d'ailleurs prise à l'aller, et si je vois qu'il y a des risques pour ma voiture, je fais demi tour et je passe par le Sénégal.
Si tu as des amis qui cherchent un bon garagiste à Bamako je peux te donner les coordonnées de celui qui s'est occupé de ma voiture et qui semble avoir fait du bon travail pas cher: Van 644 84 87 Il est en face des supermarchés Azar et La fourmi, ds le quartier de l'hippodrome. C'est une amie de Ségou, qui a vécu à Bamako, qui me l'avait recommandé. En plus son frère est douanier à Nioro, mais, non, ce n'est pas le pourri...
Merci pour les coordonnées en message privé.
Bon voici ce que je vais faire: de tte façon je pars pour Diéma. De là j'essaie de voir si ça passe par la piste parallèle, celle que j'ai d'ailleurs prise à l'aller, et si je vois qu'il y a des risques pour ma voiture, je fais demi tour et je passe par le Sénégal.
Si tu as des amis qui cherchent un bon garagiste à Bamako je peux te donner les coordonnées de celui qui s'est occupé de ma voiture et qui semble avoir fait du bon travail pas cher: Van 644 84 87 Il est en face des supermarchés Azar et La fourmi, ds le quartier de l'hippodrome. C'est une amie de Ségou, qui a vécu à Bamako, qui me l'avait recommandé. En plus son frère est douanier à Nioro, mais, non, ce n'est pas le pourri...
Merci pour les coordonnées en message privé.
Arina
alors Arina, il me reste à te souhaiter : "bonne route!"
et surtout si tu as un souci, n'hésites pas à me contacter! j'étais super contente d'être dépannée par le "forumistes" alors c'est normal de rendre la pareille. De plus, je leur prépare un message dans la rubrique " voyager en ccar" car par endroit nous étions vraiment des extras terrestres avec le véhicule!
bises et à bientôt
Anita
En fait, ce n'est pas encore fini...Figure-toi qu'à la mission catholique de BKO où je loge (je donnerai des renseignements ds de prochains messages renseignements) vient d'arriver un jeune qui a fait aujourd'hui la piste Nioro Diéma. Plus intéressant il a fait l'année dernière le trajet Kayes Sénégal et il a pu me confirmer qu'il n'y avait aucun pb à rentrer au Sénégal par Kayes. Tu as un passe-avant pour 3 jours que tu peux renouveler. Donc je passe par Kayes, où mon père a travaillé en tant que médecin militaire en 1946/47, je me paie la belle route le long du Sénégal, et en plus je dors à St Louis, une ville que j'ai tjs souhaité voir... Que veut le peuple...
Ensuite je vais me renseigner pour éviter cette ville pourrie qu'est Rosso, en passant plus près de la mer, si la piste côté Mauritanie n'est pas trop mauvaise.
Ouf, je pars plus tranquille. En échange je lui ai donné l'adresse de mon garagiste car il a voyagé avec un break chargé et a abîmé les 2 amortisseurs arrière. Et, en plus, je lui ai passé les coordonnées de Voyageforum, bien sûr!!!
Qd je pense que le garagiste a tenu a me rendre une voiture impeccable à l'intérieur et à l'extérieur, et que demain je fais Didjeni/Diéma... Quel gaspillage d'énergie. Demain tout sera rouge et moi avec.
Bon, je vais mieux dormir. A très bientôt au moins par mail. MY
Arina
Bonjour Arina,
contente de voir que tu passes par le Sénégal et que l'info sur le passavent possible dès lors qu'on arrive d'Afrique et non d'Europe s'avére pertinente. Attention au sénégal OBLIGATION sous peine d'amende de 2 triangles de signalisation et un extincteur. J'en ai fait la triste expérience amis amende négociée fermement à 2000FCFA. Tu te fais arrêtée par tous les flics t(rès nombreux!!) si tu n'exposes pas un traingle sur ton tableau de bord. tu peux en acheter dans les garages au alentours de 4€ pièce ( c'est ce que j'ai payé) Pour ST Louis, superbe campement avec chambres si tu veux et bon restau à St Louis après avoir traverser les deux ponts sur la gauche, vers le port de pêche ( soit prudente dans cette rue et roule vitres fermées et portières verrouillées) : Hôtel campement Océan ( le fleuve d'un côté et l'ocean de l'autre, un petit paradis!). Pour quitter le Sénégal, si tes documents sont ous en règle et que tu as le visa entrée en Mauritanie tu peux prendre la route du Barrage de Diama ( attention aucun visa pour la Mauritanie n'est délivré au barrage! si tu ne l'as pas il te faut passer impérativement par Rosso). Après le barrage, tu longes le réserve du Diawling ( petite camargue mauritanienne) magnifique et riche en faune, sur une piste qui demande beaucoup d'attention car dévers, faux niveau, ornières et failles qui coupent la route jusqu'à son milieu ( mais plus calme que Nioro/Diema!). Il te faudra une attention soutenue mais tu peux prendre la piste parrallèle très roulante ( le ccar n'a pas souffert c'est te dire!). Tu fera environ 90KMs de piste en 2H30 et tu arriveras sur un bon goudron aprsè un poste de gendarmerie sur le barrage de Rosso cette fois, sans aucun encombre! C'est un régal des yeux cette piste! Du sable (plutôt dur surout si tu passes tôt le matin, vers 8 heures) mais pas de latérite... tu ne seras pas rouge! A très bientôt pour tes impressions! Anita
contente de voir que tu passes par le Sénégal et que l'info sur le passavent possible dès lors qu'on arrive d'Afrique et non d'Europe s'avére pertinente. Attention au sénégal OBLIGATION sous peine d'amende de 2 triangles de signalisation et un extincteur. J'en ai fait la triste expérience amis amende négociée fermement à 2000FCFA. Tu te fais arrêtée par tous les flics t(rès nombreux!!) si tu n'exposes pas un traingle sur ton tableau de bord. tu peux en acheter dans les garages au alentours de 4€ pièce ( c'est ce que j'ai payé) Pour ST Louis, superbe campement avec chambres si tu veux et bon restau à St Louis après avoir traverser les deux ponts sur la gauche, vers le port de pêche ( soit prudente dans cette rue et roule vitres fermées et portières verrouillées) : Hôtel campement Océan ( le fleuve d'un côté et l'ocean de l'autre, un petit paradis!). Pour quitter le Sénégal, si tes documents sont ous en règle et que tu as le visa entrée en Mauritanie tu peux prendre la route du Barrage de Diama ( attention aucun visa pour la Mauritanie n'est délivré au barrage! si tu ne l'as pas il te faut passer impérativement par Rosso). Après le barrage, tu longes le réserve du Diawling ( petite camargue mauritanienne) magnifique et riche en faune, sur une piste qui demande beaucoup d'attention car dévers, faux niveau, ornières et failles qui coupent la route jusqu'à son milieu ( mais plus calme que Nioro/Diema!). Il te faudra une attention soutenue mais tu peux prendre la piste parrallèle très roulante ( le ccar n'a pas souffert c'est te dire!). Tu fera environ 90KMs de piste en 2H30 et tu arriveras sur un bon goudron aprsè un poste de gendarmerie sur le barrage de Rosso cette fois, sans aucun encombre! C'est un régal des yeux cette piste! Du sable (plutôt dur surout si tu passes tôt le matin, vers 8 heures) mais pas de latérite... tu ne seras pas rouge! A très bientôt pour tes impressions! Anita
Hélas!!! J'ai eu tes infos trop tard, cad aujourd'hui, à Ouarzazate!!! Et je me suis allègrement cassée le nez sur le douane mauritanienne après le barrage! Retour sur Rosso où j'ai dû attendre le bac de 15h30 pdt 2h30 ds des conditions plutôt pénibles avec des demandes constantes de change en monnaie mauritanienne, et autres bla bla bla pénibles alors que j'étais crevée... Un des moments les plus pénibles de tout mon voyage en Afrique. On a en effet tout à fait intérêt à éviter Rosso. J'ai dc payé 4000Fcfa pour rien pour le barrage, mais j'ai réussi à refuser les 8000fcfa sans reçu... demandés par la police du bac pour le droit d'inscription de mon immatriculation sur la liste des véhicules!!! Quelle imagination!!!
Je vais écrire pour parler de Mr Sissiko de Nioro aux autorités compétentes, ainsi qu'à l'office du tourisme de Bamako. Est-ce que cela t'intéresse???
Non, je ne passe malheureusement pas par Lyon, mais cela m'arrivera bien un jour puisque mon neveu est véto à Tournon, dc pas si loin que cela! Je passe par Toulouse où mon frère sera à partir du 5 mars. J'attends dc cette date au Maroc.
A très bientôt Maryvonne.
Non, je ne passe malheureusement pas par Lyon, mais cela m'arrivera bien un jour puisque mon neveu est véto à Tournon, dc pas si loin que cela! Je passe par Toulouse où mon frère sera à partir du 5 mars. J'attends dc cette date au Maroc.
A très bientôt Maryvonne.
Arina
Etait-ce à Dourou? Etais-je en train d'attendre une amie partie pour une ballade?
Arina
oui c'est ca. Et nous, on vient de terminer notre ballade au pays dogon. Mon frere discutait avec la femme qui nous accompagnait.
Je compte fin janvier retourner en voiture. Je me suis deja bien renseigner concernant le voyage mais, qq part j'ai trouver "morceaux de persiennes métalliques"pour les plaques. honnetement j'ai pas compris ce que ca veut dire. Mais je sais qu'on peut le retrouver dans narbonne accessoires. :-)
Salutations,
Bram
Je compte fin janvier retourner en voiture. Je me suis deja bien renseigner concernant le voyage mais, qq part j'ai trouver "morceaux de persiennes métalliques"pour les plaques. honnetement j'ai pas compris ce que ca veut dire. Mais je sais qu'on peut le retrouver dans narbonne accessoires. :-)
Salutations,
Bram
Ravie d'avoir de tes nouvelles.
Pour les persiennes métalliques (des persiennes trouvées dans des entreprises qui vendent ce que l'on peut récupérer dans les maisons), il est certain qu'on peut les utiliser en tant que plaques de désensablage, et que cela accroche peut-être plus qu'avec des plaques en plastique, comme les miennes, achetées à Narbonne Accessoires. Mais elles ont bien rempli leur office.
Dans ce magasin tu peux prendre une lampe de poche qui marche avec une dynamo, donc très écolo, puisque plus du tout de piles, mais achète-la qq tps avant le départ, car la mienne avait un faux-contact qui m'a pas mal géné.
Il y a aussi un système pour recharger des piles (environ 8) qui se branche sur l'allume cigare, que j'ai trouvé très pratique. On peut le compléter avec un système solaire, qui n'est pas compris (contrairement à ce que je pensais) dans le précédent achat.
N'oublie surtout pas la pompe avec manomètre pour les pneus. Elle m'a servi à dépanner des voyageurs qui avaient tt simplement des pbs de pneus qui se dégonflaient, pour pouvoir aller jusqu'à un garage, et c'est vraiment une sécurité.
Janvier est loin, et on aura tout le temps de discuter du voyage d'ici là.
A très bientôt Maryvonne
A très bientôt Maryvonne
Arina
Bonjour,
Désolée pour tes péripéties sénégalaises...mais en passant çà sur le Forum, çà servira à d'autres voyageurs !!! je ne savais pas pour l'Espagne : je l'ai donc traversée en illégalité sur ce point!!! je suis OK pour le courrier. On s'appelle à ton retour ?
Continue bien ta route de retour et donne des nouvelles. bises Anita
Désolée pour tes péripéties sénégalaises...mais en passant çà sur le Forum, çà servira à d'autres voyageurs !!! je ne savais pas pour l'Espagne : je l'ai donc traversée en illégalité sur ce point!!! je suis OK pour le courrier. On s'appelle à ton retour ?
Continue bien ta route de retour et donne des nouvelles. bises Anita
merci beaucoup pour l'inforamtion.
ce sera bien utile. Je vous tient eu courant concernant le voyage en voiture vers mali. Maintenant je regarde avec un demi oeil. A septembre je commence a tout organiser. Je pense d'abord acheter une bonne occasion de 20ans type 4x4, mercedes190 ou un peugeot405 mais pour tres peu d'argent.
Debut mars il y a des gens de mali et de senegal qui nous viendrons visiter. c-a-d ils viennent visiter des projets.
Bram
Debut mars il y a des gens de mali et de senegal qui nous viendrons visiter. c-a-d ils viennent visiter des projets.
Bram
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I’m heading to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire for a long stay from July to September 2026. Could you please recommend any apartments for rent or a real estate agency? Thanks
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Benin in July, and I saw there were a few recent discussions about this destination. Would you have any suggestions for nice places to stay in Cotonou that won’t break the bank, as well as in other cities (Porto-Novo, Ouidah, etc.)? Thanks sooo much for all your valuable tips!
I’m planning a trip to Benin in July, and I saw there were a few recent discussions about this destination. Would you have any suggestions for nice places to stay in Cotonou that won’t break the bank, as well as in other cities (Porto-Novo, Ouidah, etc.)? Thanks sooo much for all your valuable tips!
Hello,
We’re two senior travelers and would like to visit Cape Verde in Feb 2027.
We don’t hike but love meeting people, culture, and nature.
Which islands would you recommend, and do you know of any local agencies?
Thanks a million!
Hello,
We’re a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids who’ll be 2, 7, and 10 years old) planning to visit the islands of Santiago, Fogo, and Maio this summer. We’ll have 22 full days on the ground. It’s a shame (financially, logistically, and environmentally speaking!), but we’ll be taking 4 flights: a round-trip from Santiago to Fogo and another from Santiago to Maio. We’d like to position Maio toward the end of our stay since we enjoy ending our trips with a quieter beach phase.
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing: 23/07: Arrival in Santiago 24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days) 30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days) 05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days) 11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days) 15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike? What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car? Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike. There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Thanks,
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing: 23/07: Arrival in Santiago 24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days) 30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days) 05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days) 11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days) 15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike? What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car? Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike. There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Thanks,
Hello from Quebec,
I’m a French-Canadian from Montreal. I’d love to go to Senegal during the Quebec winter to shorten this long season. Two people told me it’s not worth spending a lot of money to get there from Canada because there’s not much to discover. But I’m still skeptical. I’d love to read real testimonials from travelers who’ve been there, with as much info as possible. Thanks
Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming?
Thanks
Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time. Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised). Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day. Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer. Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well). But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough). Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like. Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed. Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great. Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival! I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy! Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM. Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha. Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out. Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo). Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun. Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time. Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised). Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day. Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer. Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well). But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough). Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like. Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed. Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great. Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival! I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy! Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM. Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha. Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out. Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo). Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun. Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Thanks in advance for your tips and feedback! !
Thanks in advance for your tips and feedback! !
Hi
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Thanks in advance
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
Hi there,
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
Hi there,
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule. I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s. If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Thanks in advance!
Elisabeth
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule. I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s. If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Thanks in advance!
Elisabeth
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options? For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have. Thanks so much for your help!
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options? For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have. Thanks so much for your help!
Hello,
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands: Arrival in Praia on July 8th Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão. We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much). How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough? Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot? Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions! Valéry
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands: Arrival in Praia on July 8th Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão. We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much). How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough? Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot? Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions! Valéry
Hi,
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe? I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Thanks,
Patrice
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe? I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Thanks,
Patrice
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share: - Your favorite places to visit and hikes - Accommodations that charmed you - Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share: - Your favorite places to visit and hikes - Accommodations that charmed you - Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
Hi everyone,
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet) - Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao) - Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights - Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista - Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao: I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)... For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Thanks so much for your help, have a great day!
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet) - Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao) - Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights - Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista - Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao: I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)... For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Thanks so much for your help, have a great day!
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.
Hi there,
I’m leaving for Cape Verde at the end of the week. I’ve heard that transportation isn’t very reliable, so I’d love your advice:
- My return flight is from Sal on the night of August 13–14
- I’ll be in São Vicente until August 10
- I found an indirect flight (São Vicente–Praia–Sal) on August 9–10 and a ferry on August 10 as well
- I’m traveling alone with two kids, ages 6 and 9
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Thanks!
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Thanks!
Hello,
We’re planning a trip to São Vicente and Santo Antão in January.
We’re a couple (ages 51 and 57).
My husband is really into hiking. As for me, I’m not at my best right now—I’ve just recovered from a long illness and am still on medication that exhausts me and causes a lot of pain, so I won’t be able to keep up with very "physical" hikes.
That said, I still enjoy walking in nature.
We’re looking for advice on where we could stay. A place where my husband can go hiking while I take shorter walks. But also somewhere I can relax in nature, maybe go for a swim if possible, and enjoy local life—markets, music, etc.
Boat trips would be a great bonus for us.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Virginie






