I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)
The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...
So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.
I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.
I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.
The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!
In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?
Thanks! :)
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First off, forget about swimming in the spring—or pack a wetsuit, because it’s still the Atlantic out there. Even in July, I found it chilly!
For a 15-day trip, the ideal combo would be finding an international flight that lands in Praia (Santiago) and returns from Mindelo (São Vicente). TAP should have options from Lyon, and this way, you avoid extra transfers (just Santiago to São Vicente by ferry).
If you manage that, you can visit Santiago, São Vicente, and Santo Antão—my favorite island (though I haven’t seen them all).
Otherwise, you could book a round-trip Lyon/Praia (via Lisbon) and add a Praia/Mindelo round-trip flight (keeping it to two internal flights, as per your criteria), with some buffer time for potential delays.
Either way, to get to Santo Antão from Mindelo, there’s a very reliable ferry.
And honestly, visiting Cape Verde without stopping by Santo Antão would be a shame…
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
Hi there!
For me, there’s no contest, as they say. There’s Santo Antão and then the other islands... And since you pretty much have to go through São Vicente to get there, the duo is a no-brainer.
You can easily rent a car to explore Santo Antão, even though that’s not what we did. It’s clear that for hiking (especially), I don’t usually recommend renting a car, but on this island, public transport isn’t very practical or comfortable—especially if you’re traveling with luggage. Plus, taxis or private drivers are relatively expensive, so renting a car ended up being an option that wouldn’t have cost us more...
São Vicente, on the other hand, deserves 2 or 3 days. Exploring the island is quite interesting.
Same goes for Santiago.
We skipped Fogo since we’ve climbed several similar volcanoes (ash cones) before and weren’t that interested in desert landscapes.
PS: It had been a long time since I’d explored an island so "natural" (with its traditional farming communities) and so untouched by tourists as Santo Antão... You could easily spend a full week there, even if you’re rushing through!
The best duo is São Vicente/Santo Antão, but the best flight option from Lyon (with Transavia) is to Praia or Sal... Sal isn’t as unpleasant as I’d imagined for enjoying its beaches (2 days)—one of them is relatively quiet given its length... Just a heads-up: these flatter islands are often windy, which is why they attract kite surfers.
Direct flights with Transavia are, in my opinion, preferable to TAP’s—more expensive, less reliable, and less convenient with the layover in Lisbon...
PS: For Santo Antão (Porto Novo), it's a 50-minute ferry from Mindelo (São Vicente).
There are 2 ferries in the morning and one or two in the afternoon. The crossing costs 6 or 7 euros.
No airport. That’s what still guarantees its tranquility, but not for much longer.
I immediately thought of you when I opened this discussion. Who knows why???😉
I needed a destination with mild temperatures, the next one being the Lofoten Islands in Norway...
The initial idea was Egypt. My partner was worried about temple overload, and I’ve already been there several times.
That left Oman and Cape Verde.
Geopolitics didn’t favor the first option...
Your idea of Santiago, São Vicente, and Santo Antão sounds tempting, but then I’d only have Fogo left for another trip, which seems a bit short for 15 days.
Food for thought!
For flights, it’ll be TAP. There aren’t many options for Praia or São Vicente with traditional airlines.
From Paris.
Too bad EasyJet doesn’t fly to these islands!
As a low-cost option, it’s not too bad, and most importantly, it doesn’t cancel flights left and right like Transavia or worse, Volotea!
How many days would you recommend for São Vicente if I go with the SV-SA duo?
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Hi Agnès,
What a great idea, Cape Verde!
From my point of view, I think SV + SA is a good combination for breathtaking landscapes and authenticity on SA, and then a bit more culture, markets, and beaches on SV.
And that way, you save Santiago + Fogo for another trip (and Maio possibly). I also loved Fogo and Maio—they’re my favorites after... Santo Antão, of course! I live here! ;O)
For flights to São Vicente, there’s TAP with a layover in Lisbon, of course, but also Cabo Verde Airlines direct from Paris, and Transavia during the winter months.
And contrary to what you said, there’s now easyJet from Lisbon to São Vicente twice a week!! It’s recent! If you’re traveling without checked luggage, it might be worth it. So you could take an easyJet flight to Lisbon and then another from there to SV.
Otherwise, don’t worry—November is actually a good time for swimming. The summer has warmed up the water, and I find it’s often warmer than in the middle of summer. Though I’m not the best reference since I swim year-round, even in cold water (when the sea isn’t too rough, of course!!).
If you choose to visit SV + SA, for two weeks I think 10 days on SA and 4-5 on SV works well. Even if you’re not big hikers, there’s plenty to do on SA without rushing and taking your time to soak in the local pace of life.
Don’t hesitate if you need more info.
Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
If I understand correctly, SA + SV is the best option for a first trip. 😉
For EasyJet, I was thinking from France (Paris, Lyon, or Toulouse).
From Lisbon, it means adding another flight and the risks of separate tickets.
Unless EasyJet offers connections?
I’ll go take a look.
We always have at least one checked bag.
For the beach, we’ll be there in March, not November.
We’re not the type to stay all day—just a walk, a swim, and a bit of relaxation.
The northern islands are windier. So it might be a bit tight...
But if it’s warm out, the cold water is way less bothersome. You don’t freeze once you’re out!
21 or around there—or less???
If it’s easy to spend 9/10 days on SA without getting bored, that seems like a good solution.
I was worried it might be too much.
I’ll be back with more questions once we’ve decided. 🙂
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Hi there,
Oh shoot, I don’t know why I had November in mind.
Well, March it is—brrr, chilly sea!!! I admit this year, since January, I’ve barely gone for a swim... gloomy weather, overcast skies, cold and rough sea. But it depends on the year.
Still, in those cases, the difference between air and sea temps isn’t as noticeable, so the water doesn’t feel as cold.
For EasyJet, I’m no expert. You’ll have to check. But two separate tickets could work too, especially if it’s cheaper. Though with EasyJet, as soon as you add luggage, the price jumps!
No, I really think you can spend 10 days on Santo Antão without getting bored—just going with the flow and enjoying it at a relaxed pace. Exploring all over, not just the northeast, which is the most famous and crowded.
Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
No no Bruno!!
Don’t back out!!
My perspective, my feelings, and my opinion as a local resident are definitely different from a purely tourist/visitor viewpoint, so every opinion, feeling, and idea is worth considering for future travelers.
Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
The flight times aren't terrible at all and like with TAP, you have to spend the night in Portugal (Porto for EasyJet and Lisbon for TAP).
Indeed, there's a layover night. Funny thing is, from Geneva the stopover is in Lisbon on EasyJet. A night in Lisbon sounds nice, doesn't it? 😉
For an equivalent price (which isn't cheap, by the way)!
You'd deserve a flight to Cape Verde instead...
I had the same thought, since I paid €650/person in July. That's actually what led me to settle in Praia, the most economical option. And departing from Lyon.
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
Yeah, sometimes flights are cheaper to Praia or Sal, but if that’s not the main goal of the trip, it’s often best to avoid them. Because then if you add the cost of domestic flights—plus the hassles of flights around here—it’s not really worth it.
Yeah, Cape Verde isn’t a budget-friendly destination—neither the flights nor the prices once you’re there.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Yeah, I noticed that car rental prices aren’t exactly cheap. Still deciding whether I’ll rent one or not—maybe just for part of the trip.
For accommodations, there seems to be a bit of everything. Nothing outrageously expensive, but nothing super budget-friendly either, given the cost of living there.
And what about restaurants?
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Hi there,
For accommodations, there’s a bit of everything, really. On average, a double room in a simple but decent guesthouse or hotel costs around 35-50 €.
For restaurants: at lunchtime, you can find daily specials in local eateries for around 3-5 €. Otherwise, a dish in a restaurant is about 7-15 €, depending on what you order. A beer costs 1.5-2 €.
Life is expensive for locals too (well... maybe *especially* for them!). Being an archipelago means a lot of imports, and prices have skyrocketed over the last three years—even for basic groceries.
Car rental: I’m not totally sure, but I think it’s around 60-70 € per day. It might be more worthwhile on São Vicente for getting around than on Santo Antão. On Santo Antão, since you’ve got time, you can easily use shared or private transport when needed. All in all, I don’t think it’ll end up costing more. Plus, it supports locals and keeps even more cars off the roads. In 15 years, I’ve seen a huge increase in vehicles—both shared and private. Fifteen years ago, there weren’t any rental agencies on SA...
Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Public transport (alluger) on SA isn’t exactly practical when traveling with somewhat bulky luggage. We had a small one plus my slightly oversized backpack, and once we managed to fit everything by paying for an extra passenger seat, but another time the suitcase ended up on the roof and wasn’t in great shape when we arrived 😢.
"Taxis" are more convenient, especially for being dropped off at a specific spot in the middle of nature before a hike. But when we tallied everything up, since we took quite a few, the cost wasn’t far off from renting a car...
Another pricier but, in my opinion, more enjoyable and practical option is going through the Nobai agency (great reviews, and you can tell they’re specialists). They offer several handy solutions for hiking, with different choices based on your level and preferences.
They provide GPS waypoint maps, detailed descriptions, accommodation bookings, and even an option for luggage transport (the most expensive part). We got a quote with the itinerary, lodging along the route, and luggage transport, but we didn’t go through with it because of the prices. Still, their info was super helpful! 😊
We’ve often wondered the same thing in Cape Verde when looking at the prices: how do they do it? 🤪
Gas isn’t cheap (and I imagine it’s even worse right now), and groceries are expensive.
For accommodations, we treated ourselves, but you’ll struggle to find anything under 50 € (I had air conditioning as a must in my criteria).
For restaurants, if you end up in the tourist circuit, you’re more likely to pay 15 € than 7 €.
For cars, I know Agnès really values her freedom (same as me), but the rental prices put me off, and honestly, we didn’t miss having one. The *collectivos* are efficient, cheap, and fast (except on Sundays 🤷), and they let you connect with locals.
For transfers, yes, taxis are 10 times more expensive, but you don’t take them every day, and it’s offset by the savings on renting. 10 days of car rental is at least 600 €—that pays for 2 or 3 taxis.
In the end, I totally agree: Cape Verde is NOT a budget destination like the Canary Islands (low-cost flights, cheap rentals, plenty of lodging options).
But that’s also why I think it’s not overcrowded (except for Sal).
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
For Santiago, I also paid an extra seat (4 €) for the luggage, but the vans were packed for Tarrafal, and I refused to let them put my bags on the roof (no roof rack ).
Since Porto Novo, they all have roof racks, and luggage was included (though the competition is fierce there).
After that, I only made two stops on SA (Paul & Ponta do Sol), so transfers were limited. It’s true that if you’re restless, a car might be worth it.
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
Provision of detailed GPS point maps, accommodation bookings, and luggage transport... We had a quote drawn up with the details, lodging along the route, luggage transport, but we didn’t follow through because of the prices. Still, their info was really helpful!😄
It’s not cool to swipe info from locals! 😇 🤪
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
I can’t remember exactly where it was, but my wife’s suitcase—thankfully not very new—arrived pretty scratched up after a ride on the roof of the *aluguer*.
In Santiago, we went straight to Tarafal with the hotel’s taxi. It was definitely an oversight by the hotel management, but the taxi driver refused to let us pay him directly. When we left, the 60 € taxi fare didn’t appear on the bill, so we didn’t push to pay it. 😅
PS: If you want to explore pretty much everywhere in Cape Verde (especially the western part) and don’t want or can’t do the big crossing on foot, I think renting a car is the best option—even if it’s not the cheapest.
Yeah, Bruno, you’re right. Well, partly...
Alone, I wouldn’t have done it this way—I was up for island-hopping on foot. But as a couple, you’ve gotta make compromises😄. Hard to go trekking with a suitcase! Plus, and this is pretty specific to Santo Antão, there aren’t tons of places offering a bit of comfort except along the coast. Up in the highlands, they’re few and often fully booked. So I turned to the Nobai agency, which had been recommended by a hiker from Aix—just like us—who’s experienced in mountain sports but also not exactly young anymore. We were really keen to use Nobai’s services, even though the quote they gave us was way over the budget we’d set. I was hoping for a small discount of around 10%, especially since one of the accommodations they suggested (Quinta Cochete) wasn’t available for two consecutive nights as we’d wanted and was replaced by a lower-quality option. Their answer was no: no negotiation possible. Since the biggest issue for us was managing luggage transport (we could’ve handled the hikes and last-minute lodging just fine), we decided to have our bags transported by taxis instead... which isn’t as simple as it sounds!
On a side note, I don’t think anyone’s mentioned this yet in this post: if you’re looking for quality lodging, it’s *strongly* recommended to book well in advance. I noticed that while basic guesthouses or B&Bs (often run by locals) are rarely booked up, the ones offering great views and comfort are a different story. This is for @Attila—I know you might roll your eyes at my opinions, but I’d still recommend (among others) a really comfortable place with great meal service, but most of all, an amazing view in a particularly enchanting and peaceful setting at Ribeira das Patas. No other houses in sight nearby! It’s:
https://quinta-cochete.com/
There are other good-quality options too, like the one you stayed at—same as us—up in the Paul Valley. I’ve forgotten the name, but it’s not bad either, especially for the welcome, services, and meal quality. That said, it’s not as isolated in the heart of nature on the "summits" of central Santo Antão, and since I know Attila loves places like that...
Plus, the spot is perfect for short hikes (Tour du Mato, Forquinha Pass) as well as longer, more thrilling ones (Bordeira do Norte).
There are others of good quality too, like the one you went to—just like us—up in the Paul Valley heights, whose name I’ve forgotten. It’s not bad either, especially for the welcome, services, and meal quality, etc. But it’s not isolated in the middle of nature on the "summits" of Santo Antão’s center, in such an enchanting setting—and I know Attila loves that kind of place....
Aldéa Panoramica, one of the few with a pool on the island.
Comfort is pretty basic overall, but the welcome is top-notch.
Well, for nearly 100 € a night, but you only live once 😉
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
L'Aldéa Panoramica, one of the few with a pool on the island.
Comfort is pretty basic overall, but the welcome is top-notch.
Okay, it’s nearly 100 € a night, but you only live once
Yes, that’s the one. It has the advantage of walks in the Paul Valley, as well as the climb up to Cova Crater and even doing the full loop toward Pico da Cruz, then Cova Crater, and back from the crater.
Sure, with a car you can drive to the crater and also to Pico da Cruz by following the paved road, but it’s not the same charm, is it?!😉
For a first trip, I think São Vicente + Santo Antão is still the most accessible and complete combo.
You get:
a real cultural immersion in Mindelo,
incredible landscapes in Santo Antão,
beautiful hikes,
extremely welcoming locals,
and a sense of authenticity that’s getting harder to find in some destinations.
It’s also a duo that lets you discover two sides of Cape Verde without multiplying inter-island flights.
The hikes in Santo Antão, like the coastal trail between Cruzinha and Ponta do Sol, Ribeira da Torre, or the Paul Valley, remain one of my best memories in Cape Verde: raw landscapes, simple encounters, and that feeling of being far from mass tourism.
As for the water temperature for swimming, I was there in January-February 2024 and May-June 2025. In both cases, I still went for a dip. It depends on the day. It’s true that in Mindelo, Lajinha Beach was very windy last year.
Either way, no matter what you choose, you’re in for some amazing discoveries
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A double room in a simple but decent guesthouse/hotel is around 35-50 euros.
For restaurants: at lunchtime, you can find daily specials in local eateries for around 3-5 euros. Otherwise, a dish in a restaurant is around 7-15 euros depending on what you order. A beer is 1.5-2 euros.
It’s still very reasonable for my way of traveling (especially the meals).
Car rental: I don’t have much of an idea, but it seems to be around 60-70 euros/day
I just checked. It’s a tad cheaper: 50-60 € for a Suzuki Jimny. 😉
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For the car, I know Agnès really values her freedom (same as me), but the rental prices put me off taking one, and honestly, we didn’t miss it. The collectivos are efficient, cheap, and fast (except on Sundays 🤷), and they let you connect with the locals.
I’m thinking I might do a mix. ;)
Part of the trip on SA using collectivos to hike where it’s easy to do that, and another part with a rental car.
yes, the taxi is 10 times more expensive
Do we need to book in advance? (For example, returning from the hike’s endpoint to the accommodation.)
In the end, I totally agree—Cape Verde is NOT a budget destination like the Canary Islands could be (low-cost flights, cheap rentals, accommodation options...)
The Canary Islands have really gone up in price.
Flights are more convenient and cheaper, car rentals are affordable if booked by the week, but inter-island flights or ferries aren’t cheap (I paid almost the same for a round trip Lyon–Gran Canaria–Tenerife–Lyon as for Gran Canaria–El Hierro–El Hierro–Tenerife). Renting a car for 2 days is nearly the same price as in Cape Verde, hotels are expensive, and nice rentals aren’t exactly budget-friendly.
My first impressions of Cape Verde are that it’s the international flights holding back this destination (except for all-inclusive islands), not the cost of lodging or cars (rentals are usually pricey where they’re not common... it’s not cheap in Kyrgyzstan either).
It’s super affordable compared to the US, Norway, Switzerland, the Faroe Islands, or Iceland...
It seems on par with Southern European countries. Yet those destinations are packed with people.
But getting to São Vicente is way less straightforward than Reykjavik.
Unpractical connections, flights at odd hours, overnight layovers, prices not matching the service (when will there be some competition...).
And then inter-island transfers have a bad reputation.
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There’s a villa and a hotel that stand out, but they’re not in the same price range.
And they’re not super well-located for hiking...
I can totally picture your Morocco group in the villa !😉
Oh sorry, the destination for our next trip (2027) has been decided: it’ll be Calabria (southern Italy 🇮🇹). 😉
The subject of many negotiations during our last shared meals 🤪
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
Provision of detailed GPS waypoint maps, booking accommodations, and luggage transport... We had a quote made with the details, lodging along the route, luggage transport, but we didn't follow through due to the announced rates. Still, their info was really helpful!😄
It's not cool to swipe info from locals! 😇 🤪
Pretty much agree with you....😉
I know it "happens," but I admit that all the work put into planning and quotes for nothing, only to have it used anyway individually—almost identically—hurts a bit. Oh well, that's the game, my poor Lucette!
I totally get that budget can be tight for some, but if you're staying in fancy, expensive hotels, I don’t think you're too strapped. Especially since we can see the rates in Cape Verde, and agencies aren’t necessarily raking it in—those are just the prices. Anyway, it’s part of the job, that’s how it is!!
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
That’s the question we often asked ourselves in Cape Verde when seeing the prices: how do they do it? 🤪
Gas isn’t cheap (and I think it must be terrible right now), groceries are expensive.
For accommodations, we treated ourselves, but you’ll struggle to find anything under 50 € (I had air conditioning as a must in my criteria).
For restaurants, if you end up in the tourist circuit, you’re more likely to pay 15 € than 7 €...
Strangely, gas hasn’t gone up too much. Phew.
For accommodations, I spent between 35-50 € for simple but decent local guesthouses. Of course, there are pricier and more comfortable options. And it’s true that if you insist on AC, prices go up! 😛😎
For food, it’s super easy to avoid the tourist circuit—especially on Santo Antão—and eat for under 10 € easily. Sure, octopus, seafood, and lobster tend to cost 15-25 €. But a good *feijoada* or *cachupa* can be had for 3-5 €!
So, in short, there’s something for every budget!
And despite what Agnès says about the destination being "complicated" and therefore less visited, tourism has *really* skyrocketed in the 2-3 years before COVID and again in the last 3-4 years since.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
112.45 € for half-board for two on their website for next summer.
The rooms look nice. Charming. 🙂
yeah, charming. But it's already high-end for Cape Verde. You can find much cheaper. Anyway, in Val de Paul, it's true that it's generally quite limited and expensive. Plus, I think there's a lack of more affordable accommodations in the area.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
despite what Agnès says about the destination being "complicated" and therefore not much visited, tourism has veeeery sharply increased in the 2-3 years before COVID and also in the last 3-4 years since.
True.
But what would it have been like if there were flights from France to São Vicente with departures from France in late morning and arrivals on-site without having to spend the night en route, and return flights of the same standard for under 500 euros including checked baggage? 😏
After that, it’s actually better for these islands to have moderate tourist traffic.
And what better way to achieve that than with limited availability?
The day when dozens of flights arrive daily from Europe will spell the end for Cape Verde.🤪
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Good evening!
You mentioned cachupa for 3 or 5 euros, but during a hike, we stumbled upon a little eatery in the village of Pico da Cruz where a *very* hearty cachupa with egg cost us just 2 euros! !
I’m not specifically looking for rock-bottom prices. A good value-for-money stay with charm is more my thing. And above all, peace and quiet when my head hits the pillow... A criterion that doesn’t always seem obvious in Cape Verde, from what I’ve gathered.
My budget is reasonably flexible.
In short, 113 € for two people on half-board for that kind of room works just fine for me. 🙂
I’d struggle a bit more with a 60 € taxi ride for 40 kilometers...
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yeah, you're right, that's not what we dream of!
We already see those cruise-ship-HLM things docking, and buses lining up one after another...
For flight prices, I think we’ve just gotten too used to low-cost fares, and actually, *those* aren’t the "normal" ones. A flight can’t cost 30 euros, even to Barcelona!! Right? Things have a price, and discounting isn’t always the best option. I think.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
I’m not specifically looking for the cheapest options. A good value-for-money stay with charm is more my style. And above all, peace and quiet when my head hits the pillow... A criterion that doesn’t always seem obvious in Cape Verde, from what I’ve gathered.
My budget is reasonably flexible.
In short, 113 € for two people on half-board for this kind of room works just fine for me. 🙂
I’d struggle more with a 60 € taxi ride for 40 kilometers...
So in Cape Verde, pack your earplugs!!! There’s music, drunk people, roosters, dogs, frogs, etc....!! hahahaha!!!
If over 100 € per night is okay for you, you’ll have no trouble finding options in that range. More and more places are popping up. Santo Antão used to be more backpacker/hiker territory with limited comfort and cold water, but now it’s becoming more mainstream.
You might find the transfer prices steep, but that’s just how it is. 40 km here can easily take over an hour because the roads are winding, hilly, and steep—it’s tough work for the drivers! So don’t calculate it that way. Anyway, the rates are usually official and set by the government, and while some drivers might negotiate a little, it’s not the norm here. It’s not the national sport like in other countries. Except with the Senegalese street vendors.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Good evening
You mentioned cachupa for 3 or 5 euros, and well, during a hike passing through the village of Pico da Cruz, we stumbled upon a little eatery where a very hearty cachupa with egg cost us 2 euros !
Yes, yes!! You can find it even cheaper too!!... or more expensive as well! 😉
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
I never pay 30 euros for flights. It's highway robbery when you consider the community (subsidies). And it also encourages the exploitation of crews.
I totally agree with you that a low price often hides something. 🙂
When everything is driven down to the lowest possible cost, we end up with clothes that fall apart after one wash, crap to eat, and cupboards full of useless junk...
But between 30 and over 650 (the TAP price for my dates—and it's even more with EasyJet or Transavia), there's a huge gap...🤪
With hotel nights during the layover, it almost adds up to over 800 euros!
For example, my Lyon-Bishkek flight costs me less than 600, even though it's longer, the airline is better (Turkish), the schedule is good, and checked baggage is included...
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Rubrique Jeux Voyages
C'est le moment de voter !
I’ll just go through the reviews and rule out any options mentioning noise... (Animals don’t bother me. I’m focusing on conversations, TV, music with bass that vibrates through your whole body...)
Alors si plus de 100 euros par nuit c'est ok pour toi, tu trouveras sans souci des offres dans cette gamme là
If I subtract 30 € for the half-board meal, it’s more like 80 € per night including breakfast.😉
tu auras du mal avec les prix des transferts
But they’re not mandatory, right?
Don’t the collectivos run all day?
If they only run in the morning, I’ll just plan hikes that end where I’m staying...
For everything else (loop hikes, viewpoints), I’ll rent a car.
Might as well be free for 60 €.
Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026
Rubrique Jeux Voyages
C'est le moment de voter !
I never pay 30 € for flights. It's highway robbery for the community (subsidies). And it also encourages the exploitation of crews.
I totally agree with you that a low price often hides something. 🙂
If we keep pushing everything down, we end up with clothes that last one wash, crap to eat, and closets full of stuff we never use...
But between 30 € and over 650 € (the TAP price for my dates, and it's even more with EasyJet or Transavia), there's a big gap...
With hotel nights during the layover, it almost adds up to over 800 €!
For example, my Lyon-Bishkek flight costs less than 600 €, even though it's longer, the airline is better (Turkish), the schedule is good, and checked baggage is included...
It's true that Cape Verde isn't cheap. And yet, prices have dropped quite a bit compared to 10-15 years ago when TAP was pretty much the only option and we paid around 800-1000 € for a ticket!!! Now there are other options, low-cost airlines, and with competition, prices are dropping... a little.
But as you said, it also helps avoid mass tourism on this small archipelago... and we're happy about that! ;O)
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
I’ll rather go through the reviews and rule out any options mentioning noise... (Animals don’t bother me. I’m focusing on conversations, TV, music with bass that vibrates through your whole body...)
So if over 100 euros per night is okay for you, you’ll have no trouble finding options in that range
If I subtract 30 euros for the half-board meal, it’s more like 80 per night including breakfast.😉
You’ll struggle with transfer prices
But they’re not mandatory, right?
Don’t the collectivos run all day?
If they only run in the morning, I’ll just plan hikes that end where I’m staying...
For the rest (loop hikes, viewpoints), I’ll rent a car.
Might as well be free for 60 euros.
About the noise: some places are indeed quieter than others. As soon as you leave the villages and find slightly isolated accommodations, it’s often more peaceful. But you’re never completely safe from a party or music here. That’s Cape Verde for you.
About transportation:
No, of course private transfers aren’t mandatory, but they’re often really handy if you’re loaded with luggage when moving from one hotel to another, for example, or depending on where you want to go without waiting for hours. They might only be necessary on certain days, and the rest of the time, you can use shared transport. That’s why I say that overall, it’s worth renting a car. But it’s true that it’s not the same kind of freedom. Though on some roads, I’ll admit I prefer letting the locals drive—even though I’m used to mountain roads!
Otherwise, yes, there are collectivos running pretty much all day (less in the late afternoon and almost none in the evening), but it really depends on the route. Some trips are more "complicated" than others, with transfers. And often, it’s a bit counterintuitive when you’re visiting and hiking. Here’s why: collectivos come down from the mountains and up from the valleys toward the towns in the morning (for school, work, markets, shopping, ferries...) and go back up in the late morning or late afternoon. When you’re hiking, you often want to do the opposite. So it’s not always easy to find one without waiting for hours and starting your hike in the scorching heat! Depending on the area, you can arrange a private ride to the start of your hike to begin early, and then figure out the collectivos for the way back at the end of your hike.
For some routes, you can also rely on the back-and-forth of collectivos that take people to and from the ferry in Porto Novo via the coastal road. But for example, going up to the highlands via the Corda road (Cova, Pico da Cruz, Lagoa, Espongeiros) is trickier. You can catch the collectivo in Porto Novo in the late morning, but outside of that, it’s more complicated.
Anyway, don’t hesitate if you need more info.
Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
So rule out Aldea right away—it’s in the middle of the village, and evenings can get really lively (check my travel journal again).
For the rest (hiking loop, viewpoints), you’ll need to rent a car.
Since you’re already paying 60 euros, might as well be free to go where you want.
Based on what I’ve read in your travel journals, yeah, rent a car 😉
Driving in Cape Verde shouldn’t be worse than in Thailand—just clench your teeth now and then when you pass a local
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
But between 30 and over 650 (the TAP price for my dates, and it's even more with EasyJet or Transavia), there's a huge gap...
With hotel nights during the layover, it almost reaches over 800 euros!
I was surprised when you mentioned only seeing flights with an overnight layover, whether from Paris or Lyon. I’d done the round-trip in a single day (for Praia).
Actually, I checked Skyscanner—TAP only starts their morning flights from April onward, which is when you can find same-day flights.
Something to consider if your dates are flexible 🤔.
Well, it doesn’t change much about the price, but it does affect the travel time.
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
I’ll rather comb through reviews and drop any options mentioning noise... (Animals don’t bother me. I’m zeroing in on conversations, TV, music with bass that vibrates through your whole body...)
No noise at Aldea Panoramica during our stay. We spent 4 nights there. Once a week, a few local musicians come to play in the evening during (or after) dinner, but it doesn’t last long (until 10 PM max). The rest of the time, it was very peaceful. You might also want to avoid days with festivals, carnivals, etc.
At Quinta Cochete (Ribeira Das Patas), there are no musicians, and it’s completely quiet since there are no houses nearby.
Another place I recommend for its setting and tranquility. The rooms are decent, and the bedding is comfortable. It’s right by the sea, and the road—recently paved almost all the way—ends in this large village: Tarrafal de Monte Trigo ( one of the few spots on Santo Antão where the sea is swimmable; the beach is sheltered from the wind) and the temperature is higher than the rest of the island. Just don’t confuse it with Tarrafal on Santiago, which is very touristy and packed with visitors on weekends!
This hotel, Mar Tranquilidad (a beautifully restored stone house), is surrounded by greenery. It’s a peaceful haven, and the evening buffet is very reasonable for the price. Plus, they serve unlimited apéritif (punch/planter’s punch) from 6 PM on a terrace overlooking the beach—Mar Tranquilidad.
https://www.martranquilidade.com/https://www.tripadvisor.es/Hotel_Review-g482852-d1656265-Reviews-Mar_Tranquilidade-Santo_Antao.html#/media/1656265/?type=ALL_INCLUDING_RESTRICTED&albumid=101&category=101
Out of all the places we stayed in Cape Verde, only one was a bit noisy in the evening because it was close to a beachside bar (a meet-up spot for local youth). That was at Musica do Mar in Ponta do Sol. It didn’t bother us too much, though.
I’m heading to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire for a long stay from July to September 2026. Could you please recommend any apartments for rent or a real estate agency? Thanks
Hi,
Have you got any recent feedback from a trip back from São Tomé?
We're heading there in a few months.
One question among others: is swimming—well, snorkeling—risky there?
Thanks for your feedback, tips, etc.
I’m planning a trip to Benin in July, and I saw there were a few recent discussions about this destination. Would you have any suggestions for nice places to stay in Cotonou that won’t break the bank, as well as in other cities (Porto-Novo, Ouidah, etc.)? Thanks sooo much for all your valuable tips!
Hello,
We’re two senior travelers and would like to visit Cape Verde in Feb 2027.
We don’t hike but love meeting people, culture, and nature.
Which islands would you recommend, and do you know of any local agencies?
Thanks a million!
Hello,
We’re a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids who’ll be 2, 7, and 10 years old) planning to visit the islands of Santiago, Fogo, and Maio this summer. We’ll have 22 full days on the ground. It’s a shame (financially, logistically, and environmentally speaking!), but we’ll be taking 4 flights: a round-trip from Santiago to Fogo and another from Santiago to Maio. We’d like to position Maio toward the end of our stay since we enjoy ending our trips with a quieter beach phase.
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing:
23/07: Arrival in Santiago
24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days)
30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days)
05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days)
11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days)
15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike?
What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car?
Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike.
There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Hello from Quebec,
I’m a French-Canadian from Montreal. I’d love to go to Senegal during the Quebec winter to shorten this long season. Two people told me it’s not worth spending a lot of money to get there from Canada because there’s not much to discover. But I’m still skeptical. I’d love to read real testimonials from travelers who’ve been there, with as much info as possible. Thanks
Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming?
Thanks
Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time.
Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised).
Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day.
Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer.
Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well).
But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough).
Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like.
Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed.
Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great.
Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival!
I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy!
Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM.
Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha.
Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out.
Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo).
Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun.
Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule.
I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s.
If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options?
For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have.
Thanks so much for your help!
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands:
Arrival in Praia on July 8th
Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão.
We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much).
How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough?
Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot?
Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions!
Valéry
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe?
I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share:
- Your favorite places to visit and hikes
- Accommodations that charmed you
- Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet)
- Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao)
- Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights
- Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista
- Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao:
I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)...
For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.
Hi there,
I’m leaving for Cape Verde at the end of the week. I’ve heard that transportation isn’t very reliable, so I’d love your advice:
- My return flight is from Sal on the night of August 13–14
- I’ll be in São Vicente until August 10
- I found an indirect flight (São Vicente–Praia–Sal) on August 9–10 and a ferry on August 10 as well
- I’m traveling alone with two kids, ages 6 and 9
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?