Je cherches des informations concrètes pour préparer un voyage dans le sud uniquement d'ordre touristique s'il vous plaits...(car tous les posts sur le sujet tournent vers la politique et l'histoire des visas et autorisations)
donc quels sont les hotels et chambres d'hotes et alternatives pour dormir?
quels sont les sites naturels a voir dans un rayon raisonnable de la ville?
quels sont les sites historiques et archeologiques a voir? (stations peinture rupestre ou autre?)
en bref si quelqun a la gentillesse de me donner des infos, contacts, sites c'est la bienvenue et merci d'avance
ps: Si un jour la fameuse Lilli du forum vf vient a me lire je tiens à la feliciter en tant que non algérienne pour depuis plusieurs années defendre le pays d'un point de vue touristique, ecologique, et ceux malgré de nombreux conflits sur vf et d'autres forums vraiments quel courage et abnégation l'Algérie a besoin de gens comme vous! (je suis pas payés mais je lis les forums voyages et sujets sur l'Algerie donc je me dois de le dire...😄)
Je reviens de 15 jours en Algérie (région Tassili/Tadrart) et je peux donc te donner qq infos non politiques (mais à cause des autorisations demandées il faut bien en faire 1 peu):
A Djanet on a couché à l'hotel des Zeribas, un peu déglingue mais assez agréable, pas trop cher et bon resto.
A visiter dans le coin: tous les environs de Djanet, meme tout prés, vers l'erg Admer c'est splendide.
+ loin la Tadrat (3 jours au moins) est absolument magnifique.
Le plateau de Tamrit a des trés belles peintures rupestres (mais j'y suis jamais allé) .
Partout sauf à Djanet il te faut un guide et les autorisations (demandées par l'agence du guide) et c'est le point le plus embétant car ça peut changer au dernier moment (ça m'est arrivé).
Bien demander à ton guide/agence qu'il prépare ces autorisations et prévoir un plan B au cas où....
RR.
Tout d'abord merci de suivre depuis de longues années mes participations ici sur VF ! 🙂
J'ai des nouvelles toutes récentes, ayant des amis qui viennent de rentrer d'un séjour à Djanet et environs ! Certes ils étaient privilégiés puisque sur place ils ont retrouvé des amis touareg que je connais bien ainsi qu'une amie de Grenoble qui y vivait une partie de l'année durant plus de 6 ans... ils ont passé un excellent séjour, ils ont dormi lors de leur circuit à la belle étoile, parfois sous une petite tente... Donc pas à l'hôtel ! Il faut savoir que l'hôtellerie est très limitée à Djanet, puisque la quasi-totalité des touristes arrivant à Djanet, en repartent le jour même ou le lendemain pour les circuits ! Le principe de la chambre d'hôtes n'existe pas à Djanet, d'autant plus que la famille touareg qui reçoit un étranger doit le signaler immédiatement à la police... et ce n'est pas très "marrant"...
Vouloir se rendre à Djanet, ce n'est pas pour rester sur place, à part l'oued pour se promener à pied, visiter les quartiers comme Azelouaz, etc... et le site de la "Vache qui pleure" ainsi que des endroits sublimes pour passer quelques heures à se reposer, la palmeraie, ... il n'y a pas grand chose à faire autour par rapport à tout ce qu'offre la région (peintures rupestres, le Tadrart, Essendilène, ...)
Les monuments : La Mosquée de Azellouaz (blanchie à la chaux).
Les sites célèbres : La Palmeraie de Djanet (abritant plus de 30 000 palmiers dattiers).
Les musées : Le Musée de Bordj El Haoues (musée archéologique et scientifique du désert et du peuple touaregs).
Les différents quartiers : El-Mihane (quartier commerçant) ; Tinkhatma ; Aghoum (quartier le plus récent) ; Azelouaz (le plus ancien) ; Adjahil ; Tindjadad.
Partir en randonnée à dos chameau ou en 4x4 à Essendilène afin d'y découvrir l'erg Admer.
Se rendre en 4x4 dans le désert de Tadrart.
Partir en randonnée pédestre dans le plateau du Tassil N'Ajjer pour y découvrir les célèbres peintures et gravures rupestres qui ornent les parois rocheuses du site.
En quelques mots, faire un tel voyage quand même lointain pour juste rester sur place, je n'en vois pas l'intérêt !
J'ai la résidence en Algérie, où je passe une partie de l'année sauf ces derniers temps pour raisons familiales...mes enfants (15 & 20 ans) ont le passeport algérien donc je me considère un peu comme une algérienne du sud...
LILI
Il n'y a personne qui soit née sous une mauvaise étoile, il n'y a que des gens qui ne savent pas lire le ciel. (Dalaï Lama)
mais rien ni personne ne vient à bout de ceux qui défendent une cause juste... (Mano Dayak)
Bien sur qu'on va pas à Djanet pour aller à l'hotel mais c'était une question posée, donc j'y ai répondu en parlant de mon expèrience de moins d'un mois et non pas de celle des autres.
De plus quand on sort de 5 ou 6 jours de pistes avec chaleur et poussiere on est content d'une bonne douche et d'1 bon lit.
Enfin cet hotel est trés bien pour visiter la ville qui est elle-meme trés belle (plusieurs quartiers à découvrir).
Il y en a un autre sur la route de l'aéroport mais je n'y suis pas allé depuis 2007.
Donc à part 1 nuit pour s'y laver vaut mieux ensuite préférer les bivouacs sous les étoiles et là c"est pas ce qui manque dans le coin; surtout entre Djanet et l'erg Admer (y aller en chameau ou 1 heure de 4x4 seulement).
RR
Je rajouterai l'oasis d'Iherir avec un arrêt à la belle roche de Dider couverte de gravures
Pour se loger: camping "Le jardin des sables" à la sortie de Djanet. Très joli, chambres confortables, et clean, sanitaires propres, douce chaude, jardin et tente pour se reposer ou manger, idéal pour faire une pose entre 2 circuits d'une semaine par exemple.
Pour le plateau, j'y suis montée 2 fois, il a pour moi, quelque chose de magique avec ces peintures un peu "fantastiques" pour certaines, et puis il y a cette énorme cassure dans le plateau: le canyon de Tamrit et n'oublions pas la vallée des cyprès...
Depuis la chute la fréquentation touristique on peut voir des mouflons et des gazelles.
...Et même si c'est plus difficile, il est possible de loger chez l'habitant. Celui-ci le déclare aux autorités, des papiers à remplir mais c'est tout.
Super je suis content d'avoir retrouver des réponses étoffés a mon sujet ce soir!
@Roronew: merci pour tes infos elles me seront trés utiles...
@Lilli: Je cherche beaucoup sur google au sujet de l'Algérie car j'y vais au mois deux fois par an donc je tombe quasimment a chaque fois sur un fil de discussion voila pour quoi a l'insu de mon plein grés je t'es suivi depuis longtemps ...
@Lilli et Roronew: Concernant l'hotel et vu que j'ai eu l'occasion de lire vos point de divergences précédents, j'espere que ce posts va permettre d'enterrer la hache de guerre lol 😄, l'hotel est un bon point d'ancrage donc toujours bon a connaitre même si on connais des gens dans la region, même si on a une tente, même si on va en chambre d'hote... Hotel ne veut pas dire ne pas bouger, car il s'agit de rayonner même deux jours et revenir...Mais Lilli en général je programme trés peu je connais l'hospitalité algerienne et en général je suis toujours trés bien accueillis et orientés et guidé même il suffit d'etre ouvert patient et au grés des rencontres on se laisse porter.VOUS VOUS toi+elle roronew+ lilli avez raisons tous les deux, vous etes utiles a ce forum tous les deux alors faites moi le plaisir de vous reconcilier...(je suis toujours pas payé 🙂)
Je sais pas si c'est important a preciser mais etant binational j'ai jamais eu de soucis niveau autorisation et compagnie et en général je voyage souvent avec des amis algériens et souvent un contact dans la région... j'espere que l'on aura pas de soucis ce coup ci on est pas du genre 4x4 avec un panneau écris on est tourisme avec une tête a se faire enlever...😉 on arrive au sntv du coin trés modestement et on se fond dans la masse...
@Kechua: merci pour tes infos, je vais rechercher des infos sur ce que tu as mentionné...
Bon vent et ramènes nous de belles impressions, de belles histoires humaines... et remplis tes yeux ! 😉
Je n'ai rien compris par contre à tes quelques lignes concernant la hache de guerre, etc... ! 😠 Mes messages t'étaient adressés directement et chacun d'entre nous a donné ses avis ! Si j'ai évoqué le fait que l'hébergement à Djanet n'est pas développé, c'est que j'ai participé à plusieurs réunions des professionnels au sud sur le problématique du manque des infrastructures dans certains endroits touristiques... les algériens "nationaux" n'ayant pas du tout l'habitude de faire du bivouac, souhaiteraient pouvoir s'héberger dans des hôtels ou équivalent... certes les touristes étrangers n'en font qu'une utilisation restreinte pour une ou deux nuits, le reste étant en plein Sahara, loin de tout !🙂
LILI
Il n'y a personne qui soit née sous une mauvaise étoile, il n'y a que des gens qui ne savent pas lire le ciel. (Dalaï Lama)
mais rien ni personne ne vient à bout de ceux qui défendent une cause juste... (Mano Dayak)
Calmos, t'as bien raison et bon voyage là bas.
Si t'es binational tu auras surement + de facilités pour les autorisations (du moins j'espère car j'ai vu les Algériens se déplacer à des endroits où je pouvais pas aller).
RR.
Afin d’obtenir une réservation d’hôtel à Alger (pour le visa mais aussi pour y dormir!), j’ai consulté les " grands classiques " des sites de réservations…
J'aimerais savoir s'il existe des agences ou des sites sur internet vers lesquels je pourrais me tourner pour l'organisation concrête de mon séjour à Gardahia…
Je souhaitais savoir si vous connaissiez un site internet, du genre hostelworld, qui repertorie des hotels en algerie? Autre que les traditionnels 5 étoiles…
J'aimerais passer mes vacances du mois d'aout avec ma copine à Alger et j'aimerais connaitre des hôtels pas très chers et sécurisés pour deux jeunes filles.…
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening
Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada
Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon
Day 6: Luxor
Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon
Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada
Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van.
Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques
Hi there,
I have a layover in Algeria.
I won’t be leaving the airport.
The two tickets aren’t with the same airline.
Do I need a transit visa?
Thanks for any details and your help!
Hi there,
I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days.
We’ll be renting a car to get around.
Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy?
My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal!
Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!
Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges.
Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime.
If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving...
Happy to answer any questions!