Hi there, following a work trip, I’ll have 4.5 days left to get a quick overview of Madagascar during the last week of February. I’ll already have had a good look around Tana (3 days of work and 1.5 days beforehand to see 1 or 2 points of interest 2-3 hours from Tana).
Is it feasible to spend the remaining 4.5 days like this:
- Day 1 & 2 (and maybe the morning of Day 3): relaxing on a coast with a pleasant climate, for example, a one-way flight to Tuléar (there’s a flight on Day 1 at 3 AM) and heading to a nice beach. Ideally, I’d have liked to go toward Morondava (baobabs, beautiful beaches near Belo), but the flight schedules don’t really work, and it wouldn’t let me visit Isalo.
- Then 2 days to head back up via the RN7, ideally with a stop in Isalo, which really appeals to me (I’m an experienced hiker in France), and/or Ranomafana. But do the weather conditions allow for long hikes in that area? Ideally, I’d like to do Tuléar–Tana by public transport up to my first road stop (shared bus? To Isalo?), then find a local hiking guide for the day. And take another transport to another point of interest before returning to Tana, where I have my return flight to France on Day 5 at noon.
My questions:
- How to travel from Day 3 to Day 5 from the west coast (Tuléar? Morondava?) back to Tana? I’d prefer not to depend on a guide the whole way, but if I have to 🤷🏽♂️)
If I choose Morondava, will I miss out on really interesting spots I could’ve seen along the RN7?
I’m open to any suggestions or ideas to make the most of these 4.5 days, like another beach destination I might not have considered (I ruled out Nosy Bé because of the February weather—maybe I was wrong?)
Hi there, that seems really short to do all that given the road conditions.
Why not a round-trip flight to Sainte Marie if you want to enjoy some beautiful beaches?
Hi there,
To be honest, with such a short stay, I wouldn’t rely too much on domestic flights—the airline might cancel or delay your flight at the last minute.
My advice is to stay fairly close to the capital, where you can get back in a day (a long day, though). So, you’ve got Majunga, where you can do a few visits around the area, or Foulpointe—just hoping there’s no cyclone or bad weather.
Morondava is an option, but it’s already a bit too far.
Happy planning!
So even if you arrive by plane on Day 1 at dawn in Tulear (let’s assume the flight won’t be canceled), you think heading back up the RN7 by road from the morning of Day 3 to midday on Day 5 with just a stop in Isalo is a bad idea?
So even arriving by plane on Day 1 at dawn in Tulear (assuming the flight isn’t canceled), do you think driving up the RN7 from the morning of Day 3 to midday on Day 5 with just a stop in Isalo is a bad idea?
No, you’ll have time, but it’s a bit tight. For example:
Day 3: Leave Tulear early, and you’ll have time to visit Isalo National Park in the afternoon and spend the night in Ranohira.
Day 4: Drive from Ranohira to Ambositra or as far as Antsirabe if possible.
Day 5: You’ll need to leave very early whether you’re coming from Ambositra or Antsirabe, because from Antsirabe to Antananarivo, it’s only 168 km but takes about 5 hours. On top of that, there’s the 90 km between Ambositra and Antsirabe (around 3 hours of driving) if you’re leaving from Ambositra.
It’s just to give you a practical idea of what to expect in Madagascar.
Thanks so much for the info! Do bush taxis leave Tulear for Ranohira in the evening, around nightfall? That’d be perfect for arriving really late in Ranohira and starting the hike early the next morning in Isalo.
For the first 2–3 “beach” days, I’m starting to look into the south of Tulear (Sarodrano, Saint Augustin, Anakao, Ambola, and Tsinamampetsotsa Park) instead of heading to Ifaty. We’ll see…
Hi there,
The national bush taxis leave Tulear around 3 PM and pass through Ranohira in the middle of the night. But if you book ahead and stay at a roadside hotel like the "L'Orchidée de l'Isalo," you won’t have any issues.
Hi there,
Sorry to be a downer, but in a country like Madagascar with roads in such poor condition and unreliable air transport, your trip could quickly turn into a real hassle. To do the RN7 properly and enjoy the interesting sites, you’d need at least a week—over 1,000 km at 30 km/h through potholes just for two short stops? If you're a seasoned traveler, maybe, or possibly with a private 4x4 and driver (much more expensive), but definitely not by public transport. In that case, I’d suggest stopping at the stunning Andringitra site instead of Ranomafana, which isn’t even on the route.
For the other options, like Nosy Be or Sainte Marie, the issue is still the return flight—will it actually leave so you don’t miss your departure from Madagascar?
Not an easy call...
I’d consider two other options: There’s a really beautiful region just 100 km from Tana via a good road, with lakes, waterfalls, geysers, and volcanic landscapes. It’s around Ampefy on the RN1—perfect for a two-day stop. Then for the beach, the closest is Vatomandry on the east coast. These are wild beaches on the Indian Ocean, but be careful—the sea can be dangerous. When I go, I don’t venture far from the shore. The village is super nice and lets you experience Madagascar beyond tourism. Plus, it’s easily accessible by *taxi-brousse* for two more days.
- then 2 days to head back up via the RN 7, ideally with a stop at Isalo, which really appeals to me (I'm an experienced hiker in France)
Isalo is a massif. The place to stop is Ranohira. From there, you can do hikes (treks) lasting several days. The closest to Ranohira is the natural pool, about a 3- to 4-hour walk away. There’s also the Monkey Canyon, the Rat Canyon, the Queen of Isalo, and the Portuguese Cave, which takes 4 days to reach (one way!).
It’s not easy to avoid guides!
If I choose Morondava, won’t I miss out on some really interesting spots I could’ve seen along the RN7?
I think you’re dreaming a little. Even with your own well-maintained car, you can’t do what you’re imagining. In Madagascar, distances are long and full of obstacles!
No matter what, it’ll take you 4 days round-trip to get there—unless you’re driving your own car, and even then, the "road" might be cut off, and you’ll need to avoid the rainy season!
To see the sea the "quickest" way (if things haven’t gotten worse since my last trips), it’s Tana to Tamatave (10 hours by road), and from there, take a *taxi-brousse* to Foulpointe (beach). You can spend a day there and head back the other way.
Or Tana to Antsirabe.
Flying can go smoothly or the opposite—flights are really unpredictable!
If your return date isn’t set in stone, you could give it a shot.
Thanks for this info. Anyway, my plan was too shaky, and the Tana-Tulear flight that left at 3 AM on Day 1 has disappeared since this morning...
I’ll look into your advice or just do a short stretch of the RN7 without the sea, round trip. I’ll figure it out tonight or tomorrow.
The closest point to the sea is Tamatave, and from there, by taxi-brousse, it's 40 or 50 km north to the beach at Foulpointe. Back in the day, there were bungalows run by a Chinese guy we called ET.
Great spot!
Trying a one-way flight and returning by taxi-brousse is safer!.. With taxi-brousse, you have to wait until it's full to leave! You can buy multiple seats (it's not expensive) and off it goes even if it's not full... you save time and have more space—otherwise, it's really cramped!
Along the way, there's an interesting park (Andasibe), but it's very, very humid during the rainy season!
https://www.voyagemadagascar.com/guide-madagascar/attraction/le-parc-national-andasibe-mantadia
Also check out Tana to Majunga (Mahajanga). If I remember correctly, it might be quicker (but longer in distance)—there used to be minibuses, so it's more comfortable. Expect an 11-hour trip if there are no breakdowns.
Hi there,
With the time you have, I’d recommend the loop:
Tana – Ampefy – Antsirabe – Tana.
4 or 5 days is perfect.
A short loop with gorgeous highland scenery, walks, sightseeing, and paragliding possible in Ampefy or other activities.
Alternatively, Sainte-Marie by return flight is ideal. Staying on Île aux Nattes.
Just keep in mind the uncertainty of the return flight, which could cause some stress.
For something like Morondava or Tulear, in my opinion, it’s too intense and not suited for such a short trip.
Hi there,
With the time you have, I’d recommend the loop:
Tana – Ampefy – Antsirabe – Tana.
4 or 5 days is perfect.
A short loop with gorgeous highland scenery, walks, sightseeing, and paragliding possible in Ampefy or other activities.
Otherwise, yeah, Sainte Marie as a round-trip by plane is ideal. Staying on Île aux Nattes.
Though there’s still the uncertainty of the return flight that could leave you stranded.
For something like Morondava or Tulear, in my opinion, it’s too intense and not suited for such a short trip.
Thanks to all of you for this info!
I’ll share my idea for Ampefy at the end of my message.
First, here’s my rough itinerary:
- Monday very early (or Sunday after work, heading to Mahamasina Stadium around 9 PM—yeah, I know, I’m dreaming 😄): departure for the Tsaranoro Valley (bush taxi either Tana-Tulear with a stop in Ambalavao, or Tana-Fianarantsoa then Fiana-Ambalavao). Reach accommodation via Antanambao (e.g., Tsarasoa Lodge, but I’m struggling to find prices) by 4x4 or bush taxi + walking. Since I’ll likely only arrive in the late afternoon at best (unless I can leave Tana the night before), would it be possible to make a quick stop somewhere along the way, even if it means getting to the Tsaranoro reserve later?
- Tuesday: hikes in the Tsaranoro Valley: the Chameleon Peak (Langela) hike + a full loop of Tsaranoro, passing by Karambony summit if conditions allow. Head to Anja Reserve this Tuesday evening or Wednesday morning (affordable lodging in the area?!)
- Wednesday morning: hike in the Anja Community Reserve, then head to Ambalavao (Antemoro paper crafts, Zafimaniry art). I read that Ambositra is more interesting, but with time tight, I’ll check it out here instead. Since night falls around 6:30 PM, what time do the artisans—or at least the vendors—close up shop?
- Thursday morning: If I couldn’t catch the zebu market in Ambalavao Wednesday afternoon, I’ll go Thursday morning (Lonely Planet says it’s on Thursdays, but the forum mostly mentions Wednesdays...). Take a bush taxi for the first half of the return trip to Tana (overnight in Antsirabé?).
- Friday morning: Finish the trip to Ivato Airport in Tana, aiming to arrive around 11 AM (departure at 2:50 PM).
It feels doable without knowing the bush taxi schedules or frequency, but let me know if this seems unrealistic or too rushed. Maybe I should skip the Anja Community Reserve to make it less hectic.
About Ampefy, I was planning to go a week earlier:
- Day A: Leave Tana for Ampefy around 4 PM (can’t leave any earlier)
- Day B: Ampefy
- Day C: Leave early for Tana to be near Mahamasina Stadium by noon.
The issue with bush taxis is that they only leave when they're full. It can take up to 4 hours, and if you make a stop, you’ll lose half a day waiting for the next one. In my opinion, your plan is only feasible if you forget about public transport and hire a car with a driver who’ll take you where you want, stop when you ask, and get you back to the airport on time—stress-free. You can find a driver for around 50 € per day plus gas. The same goes for Ampefy. If you do the math, it won’t cost more than taxi to the bus station, plus bush taxi, plus taxi to the hotel, plus taxi to the site, etc.
Good evening,
In my opinion, without renting a private car, what you're planning simply isn’t doable. On the first day, taking a bush taxi from Tana in the morning and arriving in Tsaranoro by evening just isn’t feasible. Stopping over if you're taking a bush taxi isn’t possible either, especially with such long distances and such a tight schedule.
Personally, I wouldn’t leave Antsirabe on Friday morning if I had to catch a flight at 2:50 PM at Ivato. Bush taxis are extremely unpredictable and therefore extremely risky. The chances of missing your flight are high. And even with a rental car, it won’t be ideal, though it’d be doable.
I'm here now and I've had a good first look around Tana 😊
I'll follow your advice and do the Ampefy - Antsirabe loop starting Monday morning. Apparently, there's not much local transport in this area, so I'll start looking into a private driver.
There are bush taxis, but if you can find a rental car, it's obviously much better.
The nicest and most beautiful part is Ampefy, where there are plenty of things to do—paragliding, quad biking, and various hikes (Lilly Waterfall and the geyser). Then there’s the road between Ampefy and Antsirabe, which crosses truly stunning landscapes (takes about 3 hours).
The worst road is between Antsirabe and Tana (the start of the loop if you're going Tana → Antsirabe → Ampefy, or the end if you're going the other way). We took 6 hours with a rental car—lots of potholes and trucks that slow you down. Stop in Behenjy for some foie gras and in Ambatolampy for local aluminum handicrafts.
Between Tana and Ampefy, the driving is smooth, and we also took 3 hours, including a meal stop at a *hotely* and a 1-hour traffic jam before leaving Tana.
For a 4-day trip:
- Day 1: Tana → Ampefy
- Day 2: Activities in Ampefy
- Day 3: Morning activities, then leave for Antsirabe (don’t leave too late)
- Day 4: Return to Tana
When you talk about a private driver, do you mean in a 4x4 or not? I’m wondering because there’s been quite a bit of rain lately, and the Ampefy-Antsirabé stretch might’ve gotten worse.
Could you share any contacts, please?
Good evening
If it works on the RN7, it’ll work on the Ampefy/Antsirabe section which, apart from a few kilometers after Ampefy, is in excellent condition (much better than the RN7).
A 4x4 isn’t necessary, but a Toyota SUV (RAV4) or Hyundai (Santa Fe or similar) will do the trick.
Contacts are shared regularly here. For a vehicle and driver (fuel not included), you’re generally looking at around 50 € max (about 250,000 Ar max).
We went with Mada Escape—a guy with a few cars, not a big company. He lives in Alasora.
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Bonjour,
J’ai voyagé du 16 mai au 3 juin à Madagascar, en groupe (10 personnes), avec le guide/chauffeur Adrien accompagné de ses deux fils (ou "Adrien and Co", déjà mentionné dans de précédents messages de ce forum).
Nous avons été absolument satisfaits des prestations fournies. Alors que d’autres guides contactés ne proposaient que des circuits tout faits sans rien changer, Adrien a su nous concocter un programme très varié, mêlant randonnées, paysages, artisanat, rencontre avec la population, dans un programme intense mais rentabilisé au maximum, répondant à tous nos desiderata.
Les logements, parfois très rustiques, parfois très confortables, étaient tous très propres. Nous étions en formule demi-pension. Les repas de midi avaient lieu dans des petits restaurants typiques conseillés par Adrien.
Adrien et ses fils sont très amicaux, serviables, et toujours de bonne humeur (même quand les deux véhicules ont crevé à 10 minutes d’intervalle par exemple!).
De nombreuses pauses étaient proposées chaque jour et chaque demande spécifique a trouvé une réponse !
Nous avons eu un super tarif, 1300 euros par personne. À cela nous avons rajouté les pourboires des chauffeurs, piroguiers, cuisiniers, les repas de midi et nos éventuelles dépenses personnelles.
Nous avons eu de la chance avec les lémuriens car nous en avons vu beaucoup.
À aucun moment nous n’avons ressenti d’insécurité.
Détails au jour le jour sur mon polarstep https://www.polarsteps.com/moietlechatTraveller/25173082-madagascar-2027
Détails du séjour
J1 vol Réunion => Mada- nuit IVATO HOTEL
J2 Antsirabe - Miandrivazo
220km, environ 7h
J3 descente de la Tsiribihina en pirogue traditionnelle, rencontres villageoises, bain dans la cascade, bivouac. Déjeuner dans la pirogue.
J4 descente de la Tsiribihina en pirogue traditionnelle, visite village et école, bivouac ; déjeuner dans la pirogue.
J5 Tsarahotana - Bekopaka
fin de descente du fleuve. A 9h 4X4, 45km, 3h, bac sur Tsiribihina
J6 Visites Parc Grand Tsingy de Benahara (niveau sportif) et Petit Tsingy (tout marcheur)
J7 Bekopaka-Belo/Tsiribihina. Visite nocturne de la Réserve Kirindy
135km, 6h
J8 Réserve de Kirindy, visite diurne la matinée – route vers Morondava
100km, 5h, piste sablonneuse ; « baobab amoureux » puis coucher de soleil « allée des baobabs »
J9 Morondava - Belo / Mer en pirogue à moteur, 3h
J10 Belo/Mer, visite village pêcheur, pirogue dans la mangrove, repas sur la plage
J11 Belo/mer - Morondava - Miandrivazo
3 h de pirogue à moteur puis 280 km, 7h de route en minibus
J12 Miandrivazo - Antsirabe – Ambositra ; artisanat
310km, 9h de route en minibus
J13 Ambositra - Antoetra 45km, 3h / Arrivée dans le pays Zafimaniry par une piste difficile.
Départ randonnée pour Sakaevo ; 9 km ; nuit chez l’habitant.
J14 randonnée en boucle: Sakaevo, Faliarivo, Ambohimiadana, Sakaevo, pique-nique cascade, plusieurs circuits possibles. 2e nuit chez l’habitant.
J15 Randonnée de retour puis piste, de Sakaevo à Antoetra.
J16 Route d'Antsirabé à la banlieue de Tananarive (4h environ) – visite nocturne du PN Andasibe (microcèbes et autres)
J17 Visite diurne du PN Andasibe, marche d'observation, nombreuses espèces de lémuriens dont l’indri indri
J18 visite vieille ville, retour aéroport.
N'hésitez pas à l'appeler.
bonjour, je n'ai rien trouvé de récent sur ce sujet dans les posts.
je cherche donc un hébergement sur Diego et éventuellement brièvement à ramena.
du pas trop cher : pas besoin de clim, salle de bain fonctionnelle et chambre propre
je privilégie l’accueil, le contact et les bons tuyaux :-)
merci
Has anyone been to this base camp in the Diego area towards the west coast (Mozambique Channel)? The trip starts from Diego Suarez by 4x4 and boat,
with a visit to Nosy Hara and a few nearby islands.
Possible big-game fishing and diving.
Thanks in advance if anyone has info!
Hi everyone, I’m heading to Île aux Nattes in a few weeks and I’d like to know if euros are accepted in the island’s restaurants.
At the hotel where I’ll be staying, they take card payments, but for activities, I can’t find any reliable info.
Could anyone tell me the approximate cost in euros and/or ariary for a week (food outside the hotel) on the island for two people?
Also, has anyone ever exchanged money at the Paris Magenta exchange bureau?
Thanks!
Hello,
After asking questions on the site, here’s a little feedback on our trip in March and April.
Marseille/Antananarivo flight with Ethiopian Airlines was great both ways. I’d recommend it.
Domestic flights with Madagascar Airlines were just as smooth.
We had to change our plans because I was the victim of a snatch-theft attempt at Ivato... patellar fracture... so I ended up with a brace and more rest than hikes.
This let us spend more time in the same areas and make some connections.
We loved Tulear. Stayed with Alain—excellent value for money.
Mangily, where we stayed for 15 days. Hotel Bella Dona due to my little handicap. The pool replaced sea swims.
Mangily gets a bad rap for being very touristy. True, you get approached a lot on the beach—you have to play along and buy some trinkets, but after that, you get royal peace and lots of exchanges with locals. The village and its lively street are nice too. Don’t hesitate to eat with fishermen or at local bars.
Anakao, a big favorite. Just the journey there is worth it. Watching dozens of pirogues set off between 5 and 6 AM is a magical moment.
Stayed at Peter Pan’s place. Lots of chats with Dario since we were the only guests.
Planned a 4-day Antananarivo–Soniara–Ivango road trip with a driver.
Cut to 2 days because the boat to Sainte Marie was moved up due to weather. I don’t remember the company’s name, but it wasn’t great for safety—plus, we brought back fleas.
Visited Andasibe Park along the way. Quick tip: go in the morning.
A little over 2 weeks on Sainte Marie at Hôtel Mantis Soanambo—total luxury negotiated at a price that defied all competition because it was low season.
Meals were at little local eateries nearby.
We chose not to sleep on Île aux Nattes but went there several times during the day (crossing: 4000 ariary for 2).
You have to take a pirogue tour—it’s like stepping into a postcard.
Sainte Marie is a special place. A tropical island that feels like the Caribbean ones we’ve lived on. No security issues at all. We rented a scooter because we found tuk-tuk prices a bit steep. You can leave the scooter with helmet and keys and come back 4 hours later.
More amazing encounters here too.
Last part of our trip in Ampefy, a beautiful volcanic region with a very welcoming population.
Stayed with a friend of our driver.
Hotels in Ivato are plentiful and vary a lot in quality.
Les 12 Collines is a bit out of the way but only 21 € per night.
La Chato... very expensive for what you get.
I tried to keep it short.
Madagascar is a wonderful island with so many facets. Always so many emotions when I think back on this trip.
The extreme poverty... don’t hesitate to buy food for the kids on the beach, for example. It doesn’t cost much, but it means a lot to them.
The kindness of the people and, above all, those SMILES.
We’re hooked—we’re going back in November for 6 months... because yes, you can buy a 3-month visa at the airport (a question I’d asked), and you can extend it for another 3 months... if you apply in time at a police station.
We didn’t take Malarone either. We’d brought some, but there were few mosquitoes, and "Insect Écran" worked really well.
Hi everyone, we’re planning a trip to Réunion for 6 nights and Mauritius for 7 nights in March 2027. I’m starting to look into it now. We’re not hikers, so I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Should we book flights and small hotels separately, or go for a flight-and-stay package? We don’t want to blow our budget (around 2800 € per person). Thanks!
Gigi
Hello,
We’ll be on vacation in the Seychelles in July and will visit La Digue, Praslin, and then Mahé in that order. Our 21-year-old daughter will have to leave earlier than us while we’re still on Praslin.
We’re hesitating between the following options for her return:
Option 1:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 2:00 PM – arrives in Mahé at 3:15 PM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- The connection is very tight, leaving a 1- to 2-hour safety margin in case the ferry is delayed.
Option 2:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 8:00 AM – arrives in Mahé at 9:15 AM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- This is safer than Option 1, but it means she’d lose the whole day, spending it alone. We’d pay for a day pass giving her access to a hotel pool to kill time.
From experience, what do you think? Are significant ferry delays (2 hours or more) common, especially in July with the swell, making Option 1 too risky?
Or is even Option 2 too risky, and should our daughter take a ferry the day before (though that would mean missing a lot of time with us)?
Or should she take an Air Seychelles flight the same day instead of the ferry? Is that safer than the ferry? But it’s much more expensive…
I know no one can give me certainty on this, but I’d just love to hear your gut feeling from those who have experience with inter-island transfers in the Seychelles.
Thanks so much in advance!
Christophe
Hello,
Our trip is taking shape.
We’re leaving on February 28th. We’ll start by flying to Tulear, then make our way up to Tana at a relaxed pace before catching another flight to Diego Suarez.
We’d love to end our stay on Sainte Marie Island.
Is there a way to make the trip by land? By sea?
Just to clarify, we’re not pressed for time.
Thanks!
Hello everyone,
Thanks for this amazing forum—I’ve spent hours browsing through it.
I’m reaching out to ask for your help as we’re looking for a destination for our honeymoon.
We never travel outside Europe, so we’re total newbies, but we want to treat ourselves for this special occasion.
Dates: June 23 → July 8 (possibly until July 12)
Duration: 2 to 3 weeks
Budget: Not really an issue for this trip
Our plan:
- A seaside destination first and foremost, with beautiful beaches
- We’d like to do some hiking or at least go on walks with scenic viewpoints
- A relaxing trip with sunshine, lush greenery, and stunning landscapes
- A safe destination
Our thoughts so far:
- New Zealand: our dream, but it seems like the wrong time of year weather-wise ++
- Azores: ruled out due to unpredictable weather—what do you think?
- Mauritius/Reunion combo: vetoed by my future wife ^^
- Seychelles: seems like it could work, but I’ve read about a few downsides (no shops to buy food, snorkeling not always amazing, occasional weather/tide issues making swimming tricky)
Other options:
- French Polynesia: we’re really dreaming of it, but is 2 weeks too short for such a long trip?
- Hawaii: same question—too far?
- Sardinia?
Thanks so much for your help, and have a great weekend!
Every year, we love escaping the autumn season—I really can’t stand it—by heading somewhere sunny during the All Saints' holiday.
This year, we were thinking of Mauritius... We’d found a place to stay, but after digging deeper, I realized it’s 40% cheaper in July. And the flights with Emirates aren’t more expensive in the summer, even though it’s peak season for them, compared to October.
Yet, after checking a bunch of sites, I don’t get the impression the weather is bad there in July—maybe just a *tiny* bit less hot than in October, but nothing major...
So we’re tempted to go this summer after all.
This big price jump for All Saints' compared to summer is a mystery to me... Did I miss something?
If you’ve got any firsthand experience traveling to Mauritius in July or early August, I’d love to hear about it.
Hi! Recently, the domestic-flight terminal at Ivato has been moved to the old "international" airport, complete with its own scanner. On October 13th, I checked my luggage (which I had inspected before leaving my hotel in Tana) for a flight to Sambava. It wasn’t until I arrived at my accommodation in Antalaha and opened it that I discovered it had been searched (normal before boarding a plane), but to my surprise, the case containing my GPS fishfinder had been opened—likely mistaken for a laptop due to the scanner’s open access to all kinds of theft—and three SD cards were stolen. Luckily, two of the SD cards had their micro SDs inserted into the device, so I still had the Navionics micro card (300 €) essential for fishing. Of course, I’m not asking for compensation, just urging caution with checked luggage on "domestic" flights. (This is a copy-paste of my post on *Le Routard*.)
Hello,
I’m continuing the Antalaha–Maroantsetra discussion but for some info in the other direction, specifically about hiking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha.
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
Well, I still feel a bit lonely about this destination—no requests for info, no travel journals, or trip reports since I last posted over a year ago. A little disheartening.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this?
Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason.
Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market.
The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers...
The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there).
The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra.
I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it.
So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast.
Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it?
What do you think?
Hello, we’re heading to Mauritius for two weeks at the end of October. We’ll be staying in Trou aux Biches. We’d like to explore the island by bus if possible, so if you have any tips, we’d love to hear them. We’re on half-board, so we’ll also be checking out some nice, typical little restaurants and snack spots. Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi, is it possible to find out? How can I stay for 3 consecutive months in Madagascar, based on a fixed-date flight ticket? In short, how do I get a visa stamped at the airport??
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Hi there,
We’ve booked accommodation at Digwa Beach Chalet on La Digue. We’ll be arriving and leaving by ferry.
We’re only a 20-minute walk from our rental.
I was wondering if anyone has stayed at this place before and knows if they pick you up from the ferry? Is it free? How much does it cost?
My husband has reduced mobility and with the luggage, it’s not going to be easy. I’ve sent a message to the accommodation but haven’t heard back yet... Thanks so much for your help!
hi, does anyone have any recent info on the condition of this RN6 route? roadworks? maintenance?
and of course, about the two river crossings at Gué between Ambanja and Ambilobe on the Ifatsy and Mahavavy rivers (at the entrance to Ambilobe)
condition of the ferries, possible start of work on the bridges (with the addition of Bailey bridges)
any info after the rainy season, meaning after April 2025
thanks
Can you tell me how long (on average...) the Tana to Tamatave trip takes with local minibus transport?
Which reliable company do you recommend for booking?
Hi there,
We’re thinking of doing the train journey from Fianarantsoa to Manakara again. Is the train still running? After that, we’re planning to go from Manakara to Fort Dauphin by 4x4. Thanks for any tips you can share!
Hello,
After over 40 years of traveling, I’ve never used a driver-guide before.
Given my age, this time I’d like to avoid being squeezed into a bush taxi. I’ve never rented a 4x4 but usually go for sedans.
So, for my upcoming trip to Madagascar, I decided to hire a 4x4 with a driver. I contacted about ten agencies and guides listed in the GR, LP, and travel forums. The quotes I got for 20 days range from 6000 € to 1300 €, with or without fuel included. Most ask for either a full bank transfer upfront or a mobile wallet payment (30%, etc.) from France.
Personally, I’d prefer to see the vehicle and the driver before making any payment.
Also, I’d rather pay at the end of my trip.
Is it possible to find a provider in Tana upon arrival for around 50 or 60 € per day, including fuel, with short notice, some flexibility in my itinerary, and without being forced to accept the dictates of agencies or drivers recommended on certain forums?
Thanks for your replies.
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days)
Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights)
Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach.
Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot.
Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina).
Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights)
Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse.
Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights)
Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise.
Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach.
Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days)
Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights)
Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy.
Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire.
Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie.
Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling.
Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights)
Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach.
Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon.
Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery.
Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls).
Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights)
Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach.
Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs.
Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights)
Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park.
Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes.
Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village.
Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
Hey there,
I’m moving to Réunion Island in September and I’d love to hear about your experiences there. What’s there to do and what should I avoid?
Do you have any great tips for budget-friendly accommodation or places to stay?
Any advice on how to save money while I’m there?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
My friend and I are heading to Madagascar in March, and we were wondering if it’s possible to bring some cash and top up once we’re there (specifically in Tana).
Is it worth exchanging money if euros are accepted everywhere?
Thanks for your always super helpful tips on VF!
Hi there,
How do you get from Tamatave or Foulpointe to Sainte Marie Island? We’re heading to Madagascar from July 16 to 29, 2025.
How many days should we stay to explore the area?
What’s there to do in Tamatave, Foulpointe, or Sainte Marie Island?
What should we visit?
Thanks everyone!
Hi,
I’m taking the Cotisse bus soon to go to Antsohihy, so the route is Tana-Majunga with a stop at Antanambaza.
How long does it take to get to Antanambaza? Should I leave at 6:30 PM or 7:00 AM?
Considering I’ll probably need to find a hotel while waiting for a *taxi be* to Antsohihy, I’d rather not arrive in the middle of the night.
And since I’m asking—does anyone have a hotel recommendation in Antanambaza?
Also, can you find a seat on a *taxi be* mid-route?
