Bonjour a tous,
on part dans une semaine a mada et on a finalement opte pour le nord.
Mais on hesite encore sur l itineraire : on y est 2 semaines et on aimerait voir : le parc national de l'ankaranfantsika la montagne d ambre la reserve speciale de l ankara
et terminer par une semaine tranquille sur les iles environnantes de nosy be.
On avait choisi de faire tana/diego suarez en avion et de silloner dans les environs en descendant tranquillement sur nosy be mais cela nous fait passer à coté du parc national de l'ankaranfantsika
voici donc mes questions : est-ce envisageable de tout faire et dans quel sens ( tana/majunga/ankarantsinka/diegoenvirons/nosy be ?) si c est trop court ou trop compliqué, que faut il faire absolument (l ankara et l ankaranfantsika sont ils répétitifs et peut on en supprimer un dans notre parcours ?) j ai lu dans un guide que majunga n'avait pas bcp d interet, qu en pensez-vous ?
je vous remercie de m aider car meme en ayant founier sur le net j ai du mal a me faire un itineraire et un avis sur les points a voir absolument.
Tout ce qui n'est pas donné est perdu (proverbe indien)
vous faites erreur mon cher, y a de quoi à voir à Majunga, mais personne n'y vous conduit pas, l'état s'occupe mal de la région côté écotourisme.
il n'y a pas qu'Ankarafantsika, il y a Baly (baie de Baly pour voir l'aspect paysage - plage/lac - tortues angonoka; Namoroka (grottes - eau bouillonnante - tsingy etc.)
bien sûr que les deux semaines sont trop courts pour faire tout çà, alors si vous comptez bien faire le voyage, prendre voiture de Tanà vers Majunga pour Ankarafantsika (03jrs) - si possible Baie de Baly et Tsingy Namoroka (04jours) - vers Diégo Massif d'Ambre et Ankarana (06jours) et les deux derniers jours transfert de l'hotel vers Tanà vol extérieur.
à bientôt !
Mimi :
Pour votre itinéraire, ca dépend ce que vous rechercher. il est possible de descendre de diego à nosy-be en taxi-brousse avec une halte à l'ankara et de rejoindre ensuite nosy-be, puis de prendre le bateau pour majunga (départ le lundi trajet env. 22h) et enfin le taxi brousse pour Tana (env. 12h). La route ambanja-tana est en pleine reparation mais meme pour les malgaches, elle est pénible et le trajet est long.
Moi j'ai préféré majunga à Diego... qui est un peu à l'abandon et ou plus rien n'a bougé depuis que les français sont partis...mais c'est une affaire de gouts. Il y a certainement plus à voir au point de vue "nature" autour de diego.
si jamais vous avez besoin de quelques adresses, nous avons voyagé sac au dos et avons toujours dormi pour 10-20 euros la nuit. je vous transmet volontiers quelques adresses si ca vous interesse.
bon voyage
bonjour turtle 21 et merci pour ta reponse. connais tu les parcs de l ankarana et celui de ankarantsika pres de majunga? si c est le cas quel est le mieux ? en fait on a peur de s eparpiller et ne plus avoir assez de temps pour passer une semaine tranquille pres de nosy be alors c est vrai que si on pouvait rester dans les envrions de diego suarez pour faire la montagne d ambre et l ankarana (si ce parc est vraiment bien)
sinon pour les adresses ca m interesse evidemment : hotel sympa sur diego, les iles environnantes de nosy be si tu y as ete...
merci d avance
Tout ce qui n'est pas donné est perdu (proverbe indien)
je ne connais que le parc de l'ankarana. il y a possibilité de partir de diego le matin, de demander au taxi-brousse de s'arrêter à l'entrée du parc de visiter les petits tsingy, l'énorme trou où les rivières sont sensées se jeter en saison des pluies et ressortir dans le canal du mozambique et la grotte aux chauve-souris(ne pas oublier une bonne lampe de poche) et de rentrer le soir même jusqu'à ambilobe (nous sommes meme rentrée jusqu'à ambanja, car nous résidions la-bas). pour moi, c'était suffisant, il faut dire que je préfère la mer. Sinon, il y a aussi possibilité de faire plusieurs jours, d'aller voir les grands tzingy et de bivouaquer sans problème à l'entrée du parc, dans de petits bungalows. En tout cas, essayer de prendre les taxi-brousse... c'est vraiment pas compliquer... faut juste pas être pressé mais question finance ca vaut la peine. Sinon je ne sais plus à quelle periode tu pars mais j'y étais en début septembre et il faut se méfier des alizées (ca peut etre dangereux à la mer d'émeraude par exemple). depuis diego, les possibilités d'excursions sont l'ankarana, la montagne d'ambre, windsor castle, ramena et la mer d'émeraude, principalement, je pense donc qu'il y a deja pas mal de possibilités.
sinon, pour l'hébergement à diego nous avons dormi à l'hotel belle vue (19000 ariary la chambre double), c'est un peu à l'écart de la rue principale, tout simple et vraiment pas cher...mais c'est dans le guide du routard donc il vaut mieux reservé quelques jours avant. c'est vite complet.
Sinon en ce qui concerne les îles:
le trajet Ankify(le port de départ sur la grande terre)-Nosy be coute en bateau collectif 6000 ar. mais je ne sais pas pourquoi c'est un endroit ou ils essayent toujours de t'arnaquer (pourtant ils ont des tickets officiels avec le prix dessus... alors attention a ne pas se laisser avoir... même les malgaches se plaignent que les vendeurs ne sont pas honnêtes...)
Nosy Komba: très joli petite ile ou on croise des lémuriens et de superbes tortues des séchelles. Nous avons dormi chez marie-celestine pour 15000 ar le bungalow. Depuis la nous avons fait une excursion sur Nosy Tanikely (à ne pas louper pour faire du snorkeling). Nous sommes parties en coque traditionnelle avec moteur (attention a ne pas rentrer trop tard le soir car à la marée montante c'est vraiment limite quand meme... il en va de meme pour le trajet ankify-nosy-be). Tanikely est aussi proposé depuis nosy-be en bateau un peu plus moderne mais pour le double de prix...(nous avons payé 30'000 ar par personne pour la journée avec pique-nique sur la plage). Vous pouvez faire votre marché ici mais si vous avez du temps à tana, la plupart des choses vous les retrouver au marché de digue...quoique les meilleures affaires que j'ai faites étaient à nosy komba... par contre elles m'ont encombrés jusqu'à tana...
Nosy Be:plage de madirokely... un peu plus calme que celle d'Ambatoloaka même si par la plage on la rejoint en 2 mn. nous avons logé "chez Rolland", (ancien hotel chez senga), Madirokely, 032 40 103 94 pour 30'000 ar le bungalow. c'est le moins cher que nous ayons trouvé... sinon pour les budgets un peu moins serrés, il y a le grand large juste à coté... il est plutot joli et c'est le vrai petit hotel alors que l'autre c'est juste quelques bungalows. Nous avons visité la plage d'Andilana...la plage de reve mais avec un immense hotel italien style club med et rien d'autres autour... faut aimer!!!
Si vous restez en rade à ankify un soir (les bateaux ne partent plus dès env. 13-14h) vous pouvez aller au dauphin bleu... je ne connais pas les prix mais ils ont de magnifiques petits bungalows, ou le soir on croise des dauphins au loin... il y a les petit village de pecheur juste à coté mais c'est vraiment plus sympa qu'à nosy komba par exemple car les villageois n'ont pas encore trop l'habitude des touristes. et si vous restez en rade à ambanja, il y a chez patricia... on y a pas dormi mais mangé durant 1 mois... la patronne traine les pieds, nous presente toujous la carte et lorsqu'on a decidé nous dit qu'il n'y a pas eu d'arrivage de poisson, ni de crevettes....enfin c'est une institution locale et tous les vazaha y vont...
voila pour les infos principales... bon, comme tu as pu le remarquer notre voyage etait à budget serré... maintenant si tu as un budget plus elevé ces hotels ou bungalows sont peu etre un peu simples...n'hésite pas si tu as d'autres questions...
Bonjour, je me permets de vous passer l'adresse de mon site web : http://www.diegoraid.com, lequel contient de nombreuses photos et même des vidéos de toutes les perles du Nord.
(Diego, la côte Est, les Tsingy Rouges, les Tsingys de l'Ankarana, la montagne d'Ambre, le Windsor Castle, le Cap d'Ambre, la Mer d'Emeraude, et la côte de la Vanille )
pour info, DiegoRaid, c'est du raid en quad : c'est très simple à utiliser ( la majeure partie de notre clientèle n'a jamais conduit de quad ou même de moto, ) et surtout c'est bien plus rapide que le 4x4 ... ( et fun ! ).
même si ce message semble bel et bien promotionnel, je vous assure que nous avons créé un site web surtout par notre passion pour l'île, pour offrir des photos et des vidéos aux curieux !
Bonjour, ce message date un peu mais si ce mail est toujours d'actualité et que votre mémoire est bonne je voudrais bien quelques adresse sympa sur Diego !
Je pars donc de Nosy Be (pour y revenir passer quelques jours avant de repartir), je me rend à Diego, puis je redescendrais en passant par la montagne d'Ambre, Ambilobe, Ankifi ..
Je cherche un hébergement sympa sur Diego, je compte entre 5 et 10€ la nuit et surtout des renseignements sur les taxis brousse et les guides pour les excursions !
Je pense passer par une agence de voyage locale mais si tu connait des guides locaux sympas et efficaces, je suis toute ouïe!
Je cherche aussi des informations sur la traversée du parc de la Montagne d'Ambre en pleine saison des pluies (février :( ).
J'ai passé 2 semaines à Diego et dans la région en octobre, j'ai logé à l'hôtel Pacifique (au bout du boulevard de la liberté) et c'était très bien : bon accueil, chambres correctes avec salles de bains spacieuses et vue sur la baie. Si mes souvenirs sont bons, c'était dans les 30 000 ariary la nuit (environ 10€). Sinon il y a le Kikoo qui est pas mal aussi, mais un peu plus cher.
Je connais aussi un guide super sympa, sérieux et ponctuel qui nous a emmenés partout en 4L, en pick-up ou en 4x4, il s'appelle Nana et vit justement près de la place Kabary, vers cet hôtel.
Si tu veux ses coordonnées complètes, envoie-moi un mp (je ne sais pas trop si je peux les donner comme ça sur le forum ?)
Pour la Montagne d'Ambre, je me suis arrêté dans les chambres d'hôtes "Le Relais de la Montagne d'Ambre - Chez Vanina" à Joffreville : l'endroit est tenu par une dame charmante et les chambres sont très grandes, on déjeune dans un vaste jardin fleuri très agréable.
La réserve est superbe, on peut y voir des lémuriens et toutes sortes d'animaux, mais à cette saison tu risques d'avoir des sangsues.
Si tu as des questions n'hésite pas !
Je suis sûr que tu vas faire un voyage inoubliable !
J'aimerais votre avis sur un itinéraire possible à Madagascar. Nous sommes 4, avec deux enfants de 9 et 10 ans. Nous souhaitons partir du 11 au 25 avril…
Je prépare un voyage de deux semaines à Madagascar du 29 octobre au 12 novembre prochains avec ma copine J’ai déjà pas mal parcouru le forum mais j’aurais…
Tout d'abord bonjour à tous. C'est mon premier post ici mais je lis avec beaucoup d'intérêt les discussions. On part à fin du mois de septembre pour 2 semaines…
Nous partons avec mon amie, du 8 novembre au 23 novembre à Madagascar. J'aimerai avoir votre avis (durée, météo, faisabilité...) sur l'itinéraire suivant, avec…
Hi,
I traveled to Madagascar from May 16 to June 3 with a group (10 people), accompanied by our guide/driver Adrien and his two sons (or "Adrien and Co," already mentioned in previous posts on this forum).
We were absolutely satisfied with the services provided. While other guides we contacted only offered ready-made itineraries with no flexibility, Adrien crafted a highly varied program for us, blending hikes, landscapes, crafts, and interactions with locals. It was an intense but well-optimized schedule that met all our wishes.
The accommodations—sometimes very rustic, sometimes very comfortable—were all very clean. We were on a half-board plan, and our lunches were at small, typical restaurants recommended by Adrien.
Adrien and his sons were super friendly, helpful, and always in a good mood (even when both vehicles got flat tires 10 minutes apart, for example!).
We had plenty of breaks every day, and every special request was accommodated!
We got a great rate: 1300 € per person. On top of that, we added tips for the drivers, pirogue guides, and cooks, as well as our lunches and any personal expenses.
We were lucky with the lemurs—we saw a lot of them!
At no point did we feel unsafe.
Day-by-day details on my Polarstep: https://www.polarsteps.com/moietlechatTraveller/25173082-madagascar-2027
Trip details:
Day 1: Flight from Réunion to Madagascar – night at IVATO HOTEL
Day 2: Antsirabe - Miandrivazo
220 km, about 7 hours
Day 3: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, village encounters, swim in the waterfall, bivouac. Lunch in the pirogue.
Day 4: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, visit to a village and school, bivouac; lunch in the pirogue.
Day 5: Tsarahotana - Bekopaka
End of the river descent. At 9 AM, 4x4, 45 km, 3 hours, ferry across the Tsiribihina.
Day 6: Visits to Parc Grand Tsingy de Benahara (sporty level) and Petit Tsingy (for all walkers)
Day 7: Bekopaka - Belo/Tsiribihina. Nighttime visit to Kirindy Reserve
135 km, 6 hours
Day 8: Kirindy Reserve, daytime visit in the morning – drive to Morondava
100 km, 5 hours on a sandy track; "Baobabs Amoureux" and sunset at the "Avenue of the Baobabs"
Day 9: Morondava - Belo sur Mer by motorized pirogue, 3 hours
Day 10: Belo sur Mer, visit to a fishing village, pirogue ride through the mangroves, meal on the beach
Day 11: Belo sur Mer - Morondava - Miandrivazo
3 hours by motorized pirogue, then 280 km, 7 hours by minibus
Day 12: Miandrivazo - Antsirabe – Ambositra; crafts
310 km, 9 hours by minibus
Day 13: Ambositra - Antoetra, 45 km, 3 hours / Arrival in the Zafimaniry region via a difficult track.
Start of hike to Sakaevo; 9 km; overnight with a local family.
Day 14: Loop hike: Sakaevo, Faliarivo, Ambohimiadana, Sakaevo, picnic at a waterfall, several possible routes. 2nd night with a local family.
Day 15: Return hike, then track from Sakaevo to Antoetra.
Day 16: Drive from Antsirabe to the outskirts of Antananarivo (about 4 hours) – nighttime visit to Andasibe National Park (mouse lemurs and more)
Day 17: Daytime visit to Andasibe National Park, observation hike, many lemur species including the indri indri
Day 18: Visit to the old town, return to the airport.
Don’t hesitate to give him a call.
hi, I didn’t find anything recent on this topic in the posts.
I’m looking for accommodation in Diego and possibly a short stay in Ramena.
something not too expensive: no need for AC, just a functional bathroom and a clean room.
I prioritize a warm welcome, good vibes, and great tips! :-)
thanks
Has anyone been to this base camp in the Diego area towards the west coast (Mozambique Channel)? The trip starts from Diego Suarez by 4x4 and boat,
with a visit to Nosy Hara and a few nearby islands.
Possible big-game fishing and diving.
Thanks in advance if anyone has info!
Hi everyone, I’m heading to Île aux Nattes in a few weeks and I’d like to know if euros are accepted in the island’s restaurants.
At the hotel where I’ll be staying, they take card payments, but for activities, I can’t find any reliable info.
Could anyone tell me the approximate cost in euros and/or ariary for a week (food outside the hotel) on the island for two people?
Also, has anyone ever exchanged money at the Paris Magenta exchange bureau?
Thanks!
Hello,
After asking questions on the site, here’s a little feedback on our trip in March and April.
Marseille/Antananarivo flight with Ethiopian Airlines was great both ways. I’d recommend it.
Domestic flights with Madagascar Airlines were just as smooth.
We had to change our plans because I was the victim of a snatch-theft attempt at Ivato... patellar fracture... so I ended up with a brace and more rest than hikes.
This let us spend more time in the same areas and make some connections.
We loved Tulear. Stayed with Alain—excellent value for money.
Mangily, where we stayed for 15 days. Hotel Bella Dona due to my little handicap. The pool replaced sea swims.
Mangily gets a bad rap for being very touristy. True, you get approached a lot on the beach—you have to play along and buy some trinkets, but after that, you get royal peace and lots of exchanges with locals. The village and its lively street are nice too. Don’t hesitate to eat with fishermen or at local bars.
Anakao, a big favorite. Just the journey there is worth it. Watching dozens of pirogues set off between 5 and 6 AM is a magical moment.
Stayed at Peter Pan’s place. Lots of chats with Dario since we were the only guests.
Planned a 4-day Antananarivo–Soniara–Ivango road trip with a driver.
Cut to 2 days because the boat to Sainte Marie was moved up due to weather. I don’t remember the company’s name, but it wasn’t great for safety—plus, we brought back fleas.
Visited Andasibe Park along the way. Quick tip: go in the morning.
A little over 2 weeks on Sainte Marie at Hôtel Mantis Soanambo—total luxury negotiated at a price that defied all competition because it was low season.
Meals were at little local eateries nearby.
We chose not to sleep on Île aux Nattes but went there several times during the day (crossing: 4000 ariary for 2).
You have to take a pirogue tour—it’s like stepping into a postcard.
Sainte Marie is a special place. A tropical island that feels like the Caribbean ones we’ve lived on. No security issues at all. We rented a scooter because we found tuk-tuk prices a bit steep. You can leave the scooter with helmet and keys and come back 4 hours later.
More amazing encounters here too.
Last part of our trip in Ampefy, a beautiful volcanic region with a very welcoming population.
Stayed with a friend of our driver.
Hotels in Ivato are plentiful and vary a lot in quality.
Les 12 Collines is a bit out of the way but only 21 € per night.
La Chato... very expensive for what you get.
I tried to keep it short.
Madagascar is a wonderful island with so many facets. Always so many emotions when I think back on this trip.
The extreme poverty... don’t hesitate to buy food for the kids on the beach, for example. It doesn’t cost much, but it means a lot to them.
The kindness of the people and, above all, those SMILES.
We’re hooked—we’re going back in November for 6 months... because yes, you can buy a 3-month visa at the airport (a question I’d asked), and you can extend it for another 3 months... if you apply in time at a police station.
We didn’t take Malarone either. We’d brought some, but there were few mosquitoes, and "Insect Écran" worked really well.
Hi everyone, we’re planning a trip to Réunion for 6 nights and Mauritius for 7 nights in March 2027. I’m starting to look into it now. We’re not hikers, so I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Should we book flights and small hotels separately, or go for a flight-and-stay package? We don’t want to blow our budget (around 2800 € per person). Thanks!
Gigi
Hello,
We’ll be on vacation in the Seychelles in July and will visit La Digue, Praslin, and then Mahé in that order. Our 21-year-old daughter will have to leave earlier than us while we’re still on Praslin.
We’re hesitating between the following options for her return:
Option 1:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 2:00 PM – arrives in Mahé at 3:15 PM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- The connection is very tight, leaving a 1- to 2-hour safety margin in case the ferry is delayed.
Option 2:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 8:00 AM – arrives in Mahé at 9:15 AM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- This is safer than Option 1, but it means she’d lose the whole day, spending it alone. We’d pay for a day pass giving her access to a hotel pool to kill time.
From experience, what do you think? Are significant ferry delays (2 hours or more) common, especially in July with the swell, making Option 1 too risky?
Or is even Option 2 too risky, and should our daughter take a ferry the day before (though that would mean missing a lot of time with us)?
Or should she take an Air Seychelles flight the same day instead of the ferry? Is that safer than the ferry? But it’s much more expensive…
I know no one can give me certainty on this, but I’d just love to hear your gut feeling from those who have experience with inter-island transfers in the Seychelles.
Thanks so much in advance!
Christophe
Hello,
Our trip is taking shape.
We’re leaving on February 28th. We’ll start by flying to Tulear, then make our way up to Tana at a relaxed pace before catching another flight to Diego Suarez.
We’d love to end our stay on Sainte Marie Island.
Is there a way to make the trip by land? By sea?
Just to clarify, we’re not pressed for time.
Thanks!
Hello everyone,
Thanks for this amazing forum—I’ve spent hours browsing through it.
I’m reaching out to ask for your help as we’re looking for a destination for our honeymoon.
We never travel outside Europe, so we’re total newbies, but we want to treat ourselves for this special occasion.
Dates: June 23 → July 8 (possibly until July 12)
Duration: 2 to 3 weeks
Budget: Not really an issue for this trip
Our plan:
- A seaside destination first and foremost, with beautiful beaches
- We’d like to do some hiking or at least go on walks with scenic viewpoints
- A relaxing trip with sunshine, lush greenery, and stunning landscapes
- A safe destination
Our thoughts so far:
- New Zealand: our dream, but it seems like the wrong time of year weather-wise ++
- Azores: ruled out due to unpredictable weather—what do you think?
- Mauritius/Reunion combo: vetoed by my future wife ^^
- Seychelles: seems like it could work, but I’ve read about a few downsides (no shops to buy food, snorkeling not always amazing, occasional weather/tide issues making swimming tricky)
Other options:
- French Polynesia: we’re really dreaming of it, but is 2 weeks too short for such a long trip?
- Hawaii: same question—too far?
- Sardinia?
Thanks so much for your help, and have a great weekend!
Every year, we love escaping the autumn season—I really can’t stand it—by heading somewhere sunny during the All Saints' holiday.
This year, we were thinking of Mauritius... We’d found a place to stay, but after digging deeper, I realized it’s 40% cheaper in July. And the flights with Emirates aren’t more expensive in the summer, even though it’s peak season for them, compared to October.
Yet, after checking a bunch of sites, I don’t get the impression the weather is bad there in July—maybe just a *tiny* bit less hot than in October, but nothing major...
So we’re tempted to go this summer after all.
This big price jump for All Saints' compared to summer is a mystery to me... Did I miss something?
If you’ve got any firsthand experience traveling to Mauritius in July or early August, I’d love to hear about it.
Hi! Recently, the domestic-flight terminal at Ivato has been moved to the old "international" airport, complete with its own scanner. On October 13th, I checked my luggage (which I had inspected before leaving my hotel in Tana) for a flight to Sambava. It wasn’t until I arrived at my accommodation in Antalaha and opened it that I discovered it had been searched (normal before boarding a plane), but to my surprise, the case containing my GPS fishfinder had been opened—likely mistaken for a laptop due to the scanner’s open access to all kinds of theft—and three SD cards were stolen. Luckily, two of the SD cards had their micro SDs inserted into the device, so I still had the Navionics micro card (300 €) essential for fishing. Of course, I’m not asking for compensation, just urging caution with checked luggage on "domestic" flights. (This is a copy-paste of my post on *Le Routard*.)
Hello,
I’m continuing the Antalaha–Maroantsetra discussion but for some info in the other direction, specifically about hiking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha.
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
Well, I still feel a bit lonely about this destination—no requests for info, no travel journals, or trip reports since I last posted over a year ago. A little disheartening.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this?
Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason.
Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market.
The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers...
The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there).
The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra.
I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it.
So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast.
Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it?
What do you think?
Hello, we’re heading to Mauritius for two weeks at the end of October. We’ll be staying in Trou aux Biches. We’d like to explore the island by bus if possible, so if you have any tips, we’d love to hear them. We’re on half-board, so we’ll also be checking out some nice, typical little restaurants and snack spots. Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi, is it possible to find out? How can I stay for 3 consecutive months in Madagascar, based on a fixed-date flight ticket? In short, how do I get a visa stamped at the airport??
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Hi there,
We’ve booked accommodation at Digwa Beach Chalet on La Digue. We’ll be arriving and leaving by ferry.
We’re only a 20-minute walk from our rental.
I was wondering if anyone has stayed at this place before and knows if they pick you up from the ferry? Is it free? How much does it cost?
My husband has reduced mobility and with the luggage, it’s not going to be easy. I’ve sent a message to the accommodation but haven’t heard back yet... Thanks so much for your help!
hi, does anyone have any recent info on the condition of this RN6 route? roadworks? maintenance?
and of course, about the two river crossings at Gué between Ambanja and Ambilobe on the Ifatsy and Mahavavy rivers (at the entrance to Ambilobe)
condition of the ferries, possible start of work on the bridges (with the addition of Bailey bridges)
any info after the rainy season, meaning after April 2025
thanks
Can you tell me how long (on average...) the Tana to Tamatave trip takes with local minibus transport?
Which reliable company do you recommend for booking?
Hi there,
We’re thinking of doing the train journey from Fianarantsoa to Manakara again. Is the train still running? After that, we’re planning to go from Manakara to Fort Dauphin by 4x4. Thanks for any tips you can share!
Hello,
After over 40 years of traveling, I’ve never used a driver-guide before.
Given my age, this time I’d like to avoid being squeezed into a bush taxi. I’ve never rented a 4x4 but usually go for sedans.
So, for my upcoming trip to Madagascar, I decided to hire a 4x4 with a driver. I contacted about ten agencies and guides listed in the GR, LP, and travel forums. The quotes I got for 20 days range from 6000 € to 1300 €, with or without fuel included. Most ask for either a full bank transfer upfront or a mobile wallet payment (30%, etc.) from France.
Personally, I’d prefer to see the vehicle and the driver before making any payment.
Also, I’d rather pay at the end of my trip.
Is it possible to find a provider in Tana upon arrival for around 50 or 60 € per day, including fuel, with short notice, some flexibility in my itinerary, and without being forced to accept the dictates of agencies or drivers recommended on certain forums?
Thanks for your replies.
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days)
Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights)
Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach.
Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot.
Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina).
Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights)
Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse.
Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights)
Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise.
Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach.
Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days)
Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights)
Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy.
Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire.
Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie.
Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling.
Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights)
Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach.
Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon.
Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery.
Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls).
Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights)
Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach.
Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs.
Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights)
Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park.
Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes.
Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village.
Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
Hey there,
I’m moving to Réunion Island in September and I’d love to hear about your experiences there. What’s there to do and what should I avoid?
Do you have any great tips for budget-friendly accommodation or places to stay?
Any advice on how to save money while I’m there?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
My friend and I are heading to Madagascar in March, and we were wondering if it’s possible to bring some cash and top up once we’re there (specifically in Tana).
Is it worth exchanging money if euros are accepted everywhere?
Thanks for your always super helpful tips on VF!
Hi there,
How do you get from Tamatave or Foulpointe to Sainte Marie Island? We’re heading to Madagascar from July 16 to 29, 2025.
How many days should we stay to explore the area?
What’s there to do in Tamatave, Foulpointe, or Sainte Marie Island?
What should we visit?
Thanks everyone!
Hi,
I’m taking the Cotisse bus soon to go to Antsohihy, so the route is Tana-Majunga with a stop at Antanambaza.
How long does it take to get to Antanambaza? Should I leave at 6:30 PM or 7:00 AM?
Considering I’ll probably need to find a hotel while waiting for a *taxi be* to Antsohihy, I’d rather not arrive in the middle of the night.
And since I’m asking—does anyone have a hotel recommendation in Antanambaza?
Also, can you find a seat on a *taxi be* mid-route?
