Ecuador itinerary with a 16-month-old baby
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Translated into English.

Original post
KO
Hi there!

After scouring the forum, reading several guides, and browsing websites, here are a few questions about our upcoming trip to Ecuador this summer.

We’re planning to travel with our 16-month-old son (he’s already been to Russia, Argentina, and Uruguay in his first three months), and here are some questions we have.

The big question: What type of baby carrier would you recommend? (We have a JPMBB, but I’ve never really been able to use it—it digs into my shoulders and isn’t comfortable. For short walks or strolls with the baby, we need something solid!)

Roughly, we’d arrive in Quito and return from Guayaquil (with the end of the trip in the Galápagos). The route would be something like this: Quito, Quilotoa, Papallacta, Cotopaxi, Baños, Riobamba, Chimborazo, Cuenca, Guayaquil, and the Galápagos.

For the Galápagos, we were thinking of 8 days—does that seem reasonable?

Regarding transportation, what are the buses like in Ecuador? (More like Argentina/Chile or more like Bolivia/Nicaragua?) How manageable is it with a baby?

Does the itinerary seem doable, and how much time would you roughly spend in each place? It’s clear we won’t be doing any major ascents, but we enjoy walking—a 2-3 hour hike to see the wildlife and flora at the foot of Chimborazo doesn’t scare us.

Without a baby, what do you think of the Baños-Puyo route? Some recommend the Chimborazo descent instead. With a baby, is the Baños-Puyo route doable? Is it possible to have a baby carrier on the bike?

Thanks so much! :)
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
CA Cassius Veteran ·
Hi there. In my opinion, check about the altitude with a 16-month-old baby. I don’t think you’ll be able to do hikes above 3,000m or even 4,000m with them on your back, especially around Chimborazo, Quilotoa, or Cotopaxi. For bus travel, no problem—it’s not Bolivia. Without a baby, the Chimborazo mountain-bike descent is amazing, as is the one from Baños to Puyo, but I’m not sure about baby carriers. So, 8 days in the Galápagos is more than perfect.
gerard
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
The altitude doesn’t worry me (I’m a doctor).

Thanks for the info! For the Chimborazo downhill mountain biking trip, I assume lots of agencies offer it via Riobamba? :)
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
CA Cassius Veteran ·
Hello; you’ll easily find an agency in Riobamba for the mountain-bike descent from the first Chimborazo refuge. Great memory, though my trip was ages ago now. It was my first stay in Ecuador.
gerard
DO Domika74 Regular ·
Hi there,

I won’t be able to answer questions about your itinerary since I haven’t started planning mine in detail yet (trip in October 2017), but I can already help with questions about the child-carrier backpack! 😉

My daughter is now 5 and a half, and during her first 4 years, we traveled and hiked with the Osprey POCO model (no, I don’t own shares in the company! 😛):

What we particularly loved about this model: - The adjustable leg openings depending on the child’s size (my daughter could still fit in it if she hadn’t gotten too heavy to carry!) - The metal "foot" that lets you set the backpack down stably on the ground to put baby in without it tipping over - The UV-protective sun shade that unfolds like a little tent over the child’s head (also great in the rain 😉) - The many pockets and storage spaces (diapers, wipes, water, snacks, sweater/jacket...) - The padded shoulder straps, with a double attachment for the wearer (waist + chest)

Happy planning! 🙂
Love, Live, Travel...
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
How did you handle the baby carrier? (In the hold? Not too heavy? Bulky?)

We’d seen quite a few baby carriers like this one, but the bulk and practicality had us leaning toward an ergonomic one (?).
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
DO Domika74 Regular ·
It’s true that if you’re traveling with backpacks instead of suitcases, it might be a bit tricky but otherwise, no worries!

We’ve traveled with many airlines using this baby carrier backpack (KLM, Air China, Philippines Airlines, Delta, Singapore Airlines, etc.), and every time, we’ve been able to bring it for free since it’s considered a stroller or other child accessory.

Most of the time, it goes in the hold with the luggage, but we asked twice to keep it in the cabin because we had long layovers, and the staff agreed without any issues (they take it at the plane entrance and return it at the exit, just like a lightweight stroller).

In my opinion, a physiological carrier is great for a baby, but it becomes uncomfortable as the child grows—both for the parent (aches, sweating) and the child (they’re not free to move and can’t see the scenery well). My daughter slept, played, and looked at books in it—basically, she’s very active and never got tired of it! The practicality always won out over the bulk, whether in the Hong Kong MTR or at the top of a volcano...😎
Love, Live, Travel...
ML Mllegazou Veteran ·
Hi Guillermo,

Great project! We spent a month and a half in Ecuador in July 2016, and we loved this destination. For example, our route on mainland Ecuador was as follows: 3.5 days/4 nights in Quito, 0.5 day/1 night in Latacunga, 1.5 days/1 night in Quilotoa, 1 day/2 nights in Papallacta, 2 days/2 nights in Coca, 2 full days/2 nights in the Amazon rainforest, 3.5 days/3 nights in Quito, 1 night in Latacunga, 3.5 days/3 nights hiking the "Quilotoa Loop" (2 nights in Chugchilan and one night in Isinlivi), 1 night in Quito, 2 days/1 night in Mindo, 1 night in Quito, 2.5 days/3 nights in Guayaquil, 5 days/5 nights in Cuenca.

On top of that, we spent 11 days in the Galápagos—and we could have easily stayed twice as long, we were so fascinated by this archipelago! We chose to explore on our own, without a cruise, which is much cheaper and allows for a lot of freedom. 8 days is good, but if you have a little more time, don’t hesitate—you won’t regret it...

As for buses, they’re quite similar to Chile’s standards.

Good luck with your planning! How much time do you have in total?
"La liberté existe toujours, il suffit d'en payer le prix" - H. de Montherland

Mon blog tour du monde 2011-2012, devenu blog voyages, puis de nouveau blog tour du monde en 2016, puis blog de mon installation à la Réunion : www.smilingaroundtheworld.com
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
Domika74, thanks for the replies! Bulk is definitely still an issue... especially since we’re wondering whether to bring our travel crib (BabyBjörn—super practical, we already used it last summer in South America). With backpacks, we’ll have to make some tough choices... and right now, we’re asking ourselves a lot of questions. When we look at photos of families who’ve traveled for months, they often use a baby carrier... dilemma...

Mllegazou, we’ll have 23 full days there. We won’t be doing the Amazon with our little one, that’s for sure. The plan was to head down from Quito to Guayaquil to finish our trip with 7/8 days in the Galápagos. 3/4 days in Quito seems good; in what order would you suggest doing the parts of the itinerary we’re interested in? Is it possible to visit some places from a "base camp"? (For example, Papallacta, Cotopaxi...)

For the Galápagos, I’m planning to arrive at Baltra and leave from the other island (the name escapes me), and just explore... If you have any real favorites to suggest that are doable with a little one, I’m all ears! (LP and Routard have tons of info, but it’s hard to get a sense of things and prioritize what to do/see!)
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
DO Domika74 Regular ·
Happy to help—these are questions I asked myself a few years ago too! 😉

From my experience, a backpack really wins out over a travel crib: sure, last year when your little one was just a few months old it was essential, but at almost 18 months, I don’t think it’s as crucial. Here’s why: 1°/ You take the crib but not the backpack: if your son isn’t comfortable during walks or hikes, he’ll fidget, get cranky, or whine. On top of being uncomfortable (you mentioned last year it was killing your shoulders), you won’t enjoy the moment—and neither will he. Day ruined 🏴‍☠️ 2°/ You skip the travel crib, but you’ll always find somewhere for him to sleep! With a little advance notice, I think most places will sort you out with a wooden "cuna" (borrowed from a cousin or neighbor just to help you out), or even a mattress on the floor will do. Plus, naps in the backpack if needed = day saved 😎

Watch out for that conclusion:

when you look at photos of families who’ve traveled for months, it’s often a baby carrier... dilemma...

The conditions are totally different! In 3 weeks, you’ll want to pack in as much as possible and make the most of the sights—not like a round-the-world family staying a week in the same place! 😉
Love, Live, Travel...
CA Cassius Veteran ·
Hi. You're talking about visiting certain places from a base camp, but the ones you mentioned aren't really suitable. Papallacta is a hot springs village located at over 3,000m—there’s little accommodation, the weather is cold and humid all the time, and personally, I didn’t like it. Cotopaxi is the volcano and its park with all the hikes, but there’s no hotel infrastructure. The closest cities are Latacunga, Machachi, or Ambato. Cuenca is a really beautiful and relaxing city at the same time. From Quito, you can make a detour to Baños at the foot of the Tungurahua. In the capital, I’d regularly stay one or two days to visit, but the noise and pollution made me leave quickly.
gerard
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
Thanks so much, Dominika, for your suggestions—we’ll definitely think about them! :) We’ll go over everything again, and I’ll post back for more info, Cassius ;)

Thanks to all of you!
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
LÉ LéonEquateur Veteran ·
Hi Guillermo,

Papallacta doesn’t seem to be an issue for everyone 😉



When the weather’s nice, you can even see the Antisana volcano while enjoying the hot springs. With these two great photos, I’ll let you make up your own mind. Quick tip: avoid weekends starting Friday evening—it can get really crowded.



For your itinerary, you can definitely spend a few days in "strategic" spots, like Saquisilí between Cotopaxi volcano and Quilotoa lagoon. Once you refine your route on the mainland, I can help you find some perfect places for you and your little one 😎

By the way, how about a super-friendly local family near Cotacachi to explore the north (Otavalo, Cuicocha, etc.)? Or a community near Chimborazo? Drop me a PM, and I’ll share all the details.

In the Galápagos, I really recommend Isabela—it’s the most "wild" inhabited island (aside from Floreana, which is pricey). You’ll find amazing beaches and snorkeling spots. For accommodation, since I love simple pleasures, I’m totally smitten with Galápagos Campo Duro. Spending a few days near giant tortoises—I’m sure your little guy will love it as much as I did.

I’m here if you need any info.

See you soon,

Léon
CA Cassius Veteran ·
Hi there. Latacunga is a strategic spot between Laguna Quilotoa and Cotopaxi Park, unlike Saquisilí, which is just a small town known for its market but lacks hotel infrastructure.
gerard
LÉ LéonEquateur Veteran ·
Hi there,

In Saquisilí, for example, there’s Quinta Las Mercedes ;)

Personally, I really like this little quiet and authentic "town", where you can mingle with locals. And as you can see, there are accommodation options even if not everyone knows about them yet.

In the area, near Salcedo, there’s also Rumipamba de las Rosas, a super charming old hacienda. If you look around, you’ll find plenty of options outside Latacunga. They’re all just as convenient for exploring the region, especially since you’re resourceful.

For a family with a little one (and even for all travelers looking for authenticity and nature!), it seems perfect to get away from cities when possible—especially when they have no charm like Latacunga.

See you soon,

Léon
CA Cassius Veteran ·
Hi there. But La Quinta isn't in the center of Saquisilí, and all the others are outside the village. All the haciendas are close to Latacunga and Cotopaxi Park. Apart from the traditional Thursday market, the village is pretty dead afterward. For me, there isn’t enough decent accommodation. When I was there, I’d already looked into it and ended up at Quinta Colorada, near the park and Latacunga. Just a heads-up—haciendas aren’t cheap in terms of price.
gerard
CA Cassius Veteran ·
I’ll add that haciendas like Quintas or hosterías in the "cuello de luna" style are also high-end accommodations, so not everyone can afford to stay there. Before anything else, it’s best to ask about the prices for these places.
gerard
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
Thanks, Leon, for all your advice—I’ll definitely reach out again once we refine our itinerary a bit more.

Back to some very practical questions. About baby carriers: we tried the Babybjorn carrier, and I find it really comfortable, just like the Poco AG we also tested yesterday. There’s definitely the (relative?) question of baby’s space in the Poco vs. Babybjorn (room in the carrier, sun shade, back seating, etc.). On the other hand, it means checking the carrier in the hold, plus the bulk when strolling around town. The Babybjorn, though, can slip into a bag, saving us from hauling an extra big piece of gear on top of everything else... In short, we’re still torn about what to do for the baby carrier.

Either way, we’re bringing a basic lightweight stroller.

Still on the practical side, do you recommend bringing fins/mask/snorkel and a neoprene shorty for snorkeling, or isn’t the hassle-to-luggage vs. rental-cost ratio worth it?

Do you recommend arriving at Baltra and leaving from San Cristóbal? For exploring, is it doable from Isabela? I think I read it’s easier from Santa Cruz? Do you think it’ll be easy to find expeditions on the spot in July, or is it better to book in Quito two weeks ahead?

For the rest of the trip, we’ll dive in once the practical details are sorted ;)

Thanks, everyone! !
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
DO Domika74 Regular ·
Regarding the baby carrier, we tried the Babybjorn baby carrier, and I find it very comfortable, like the Poco AG + we also tried yesterday. There’s definitely the (relative?) question of baby in the Poco vs. Babybjorn (space in the carrier, sun shade, back seating...); on the other hand, it means checking the carrier in the hold, and it’s bulky for city walks. Conversely, the Babybjorn can slip into a bag, saving us from hauling an extra big load on top of everything else... in short, we’re still lost about what to do with the baby carrier. In any case, we’re bringing a very basic lightweight stroller.

I also have the Babybjorn, so I know what you’re talking about! 😏 BUT you just highlighted something I hadn’t considered at ALL: you’re bringing a lightweight stroller, which I totally missed! Are you REALLY sure you want to lug a stroller around??? Because it’s a hassle—nothing like our sidewalks in France...

My advice, based on my own experience (and I know everyone has their own habits, ESPECIALLY when it comes to kids), is this: in your shoes, I wouldn’t take the stroller or the Babybjorn carrier, but only the POCO backpack carrier (which is actually what we’ve always done when traveling). We’ve never regretted taking it, even in Beijing’s packed subway (it kept our little one from being too low or getting jostled like in a stroller, and she had her "personal space").

Still on the practical side, do you recommend bringing flippers/mask/snorkel and a neoprene shorty for snorkeling, or is the hassle-to-luggage vs. rental cost not worth it?

I’d say "it depends on your choices for baby gear, which we’ve already discussed" 😄 If you skip the travel crib and stroller, YES, bring your own gear! If you’re already loaded down, renting snorkel gear will do just fine... > personally, I don’t like neoprene suits used by others because I know from experience that many people pee in them, and I don’t know how well they’ve been cleaned...🏴‍☠️ For the mask and snorkel, I can’t do without (and neither can my daughter!) the famous Decathlon "Easybreath" mask: my husband didn’t want one, but he tried mine in the Seychelles 3 months ago and wouldn’t give it back! So it’s now part of our extra purchases for the Galapagos, since they’re still hard to find for rent/loan...

Seriously, once you get the hang of it, traveling with kids is EASY and such a JOY that you’ll (almost!) forget all the organizational hassles!!!😉
Love, Live, Travel...
LÉ LéonEquateur Veteran ·
Hi both,

I also recommend getting the new snorkel mask from Decathlon ;-)

Price-wise, it’ll really save you money! Plus, you’ll be free and independent, which is always handy with kids. For clothes, it depends where you’re coming from. If you’re from the north, you can get away with just swimsuits.

For the islands, there are already plenty of free options on the three main ones (even if local agencies don’t talk about them much). To travel between them, you do have to go back through Santa Cruz each time. There are excursions from each island to explore, and none is better than the others in my opinion—it really depends on what you want to do and how long you’re staying in the archipelago.

You can book excursions last minute. Just keep in mind that some aren’t available every day. For accommodation, depending on the season and your needs, it might be better to book in advance.

I can confirm—it’s EASY and GREAT, especially in Ecuador ;-)

If you have any other questions about the Galápagos or the mainland, don’t hesitate. I’m always happy to help!

See you soon,

Léon
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
Hehe, actually, my wife says the umbrella stroller is more practical for getting around with the two big backpacks and the folded POCO. For the Babybjorn, the argument would be having a place to set him down at restaurants or elsewhere.

For the Galápagos, we’re not big fans of planning the itinerary in advance—we usually figure it out the day before. Is that really going to be a problem? How far in advance should we book, knowing we’re going in early August?
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
DO Domika74 Regular ·
Hehe, actually, my wife says the umbrella stroller is more practical for getting around with the two big backpacks and the folded POCO. For the Babybjorn, the argument would be having a place to put him down at a restaurant or elsewhere.

I get how practical the stroller is for "rolling" the backpacks inside... But it depends on whether the stroller will really be useful for your little one or not! My daughter hated the stroller around 1 year old, as soon as she could walk, actually... so since then, we haven’t used it anymore Honestly, the Babybjorn is great for newborns, but it becomes uncomfortable over time (because of the child’s weight). For our first trips with our little one, we only took the POCO plus this super lightweight inflatable booster seat that folds down really thin once deflated for restaurants:

I’m here if you need anything 😉
Love, Live, Travel...
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
How did you travel? Did you base yourself in one place and explore from there, or like us, did you move every 2 days to a new spot? It’s an important factor when deciding what to choose ;)
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
LÉ LéonEquateur Veteran ·
Hi Guillermo,

I’m just chiming in about the Galápagos ;-)

In August, you should know it’s high season. On Santa Cruz and San Cristóbal, you’ll still easily find last-minute options—there are *tons* of choices.

That said, if you’re looking for specific accommodations or want to stay on Isabela, it’s best to book ahead (about 3–4 weeks in advance for this time of year). That way, you can travel with peace of mind. But if you don’t have a set plan, you can adapt to availability and snag some great last-minute deals.

Just a heads-up: inter-island boats need to be booked as soon as you know your travel dates. They’re not very big and can fill up fast, especially if there are groups visiting the archipelago at the same time.

Have a great trip!

Léon
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
For Floreana: 1. What do you think about staying there? 2. Book in advance?

When you talk about knowing when we’re moving, does the day before for the next day seem too short? Or should we plan a few days (weeks?) ahead there too?

PS for domika: the cane stroller isn’t for putting luggage in, but for having the bags on your back and the baby in the stroller (which doesn’t seem possible with a baby, or is it if you put the bag in the stroller? ^^)
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
LÉ LéonEquateur Veteran ·
Hi Guillermo,

Floreana must be a unique experience to stay there—I unfortunately haven’t had the chance yet. It’s a very wild island with a really special history! If you get the privilege of spending the night there, tell us about it ;-)

For boats, booking a day in advance is enough, or even better, as soon as you know when you’re leaving the island you’re on. If you’re reserving your accommodations ahead of time, you can maybe ask them to book your spots too.

See you soon,

Léon
DO Domika74 Regular ·
How did you travel? Did you base yourself in one place and explore from there, or like us, did you move every 2 days to a new spot? It’s an important factor in deciding what to choose ;)

PS for domika: the lightweight stroller isn’t for putting luggage in, but for having bags on your back and the baby in the stroller (which doesn’t seem possible with a baby, or maybe it is if you put the bag in the stroller ^^)

Like you, we can’t stay put: between 1 and 3 nights in one place, then we move... which is why we don’t want to be weighed down with too much! Actually, when the little one isn’t in the stroller, it’ll double as a "luggage cart"😛

Your son is about 10-11 months old, right? I think it’ll be a bit tricky to decide what to take now, because between 12 and 18 months, kids change so much (physically it’s obvious, but especially in their behavior). Like I mentioned, as soon as my daughter could walk, she refused the stroller. She wanted independence and freedom. So we had to find a compromise—letting her feel "grown-up" while still being able to carry her comfortably on our hikes. That’s what this carrying style gave us.

Right now, the Babybjorn seems comfortable to you, but in 6 months, even if your son’s weight hasn’t doubled, his behavior will be different. He’ll need more freedom of movement, he’ll want to lean forward to see what’s around him, try to catch butterflies, etc...

If you’re leaving in August, why not wait for the July sales to decide between all these accessories? That way, it’ll be closer to your departure date and, most importantly, in line with your son’s needs— which is what really matters...😉
Love, Live, Travel...
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
He’ll be 16 months old at the end of July!

You’re right, there’s no rush at this stage, but the level of congestion does play a part in choosing our departure airport (we need to book the ticket tonight).

I’ll book the flight tickets to Ecuador at the end of the month (once payday arrives!), and then I’ll book the internal flights for the Galápagos. On that note, Leon, would you really recommend arriving in Santa Cruz and returning via San Cristóbal (or the other way around)? Or is it better to explore from just one island in 8 days (or spend a few nights on another island)?
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
DO Domika74 Regular ·
it's true that the level of congestion also plays a role in choosing our departure airport (ticket to book tonight)

I don’t get the airport/luggage connection??

Could you give me an idea of the price + layovers for your flight? Because for October it’s still too early—the prices are 🏴‍☠️ Thanks!
Love, Live, Travel...
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
Depending on how crowded it was, we’d take the train or bus to get to certain international airports near us.

In the end, we went for the simplest option—I booked last night from Luxembourg for 2100 € all-in for three people (including card fees, which often add up to around 80 € extra...). At the end of December and early January, there were flights for 840 € per person, but we had some work commitments that kept us from being sure about the exact vacation dates... so we had to wait a bit, and prices have really shot up over the past month.
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
DO Domika74 Regular ·
Ah OK, I hadn’t thought about the pre-transfer... The little one will travel on your lap, so that’s 1050 € per person, right? Where do you have a layover? Thanks 😉
Love, Live, Travel...
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
a little less, there’s a 100 € fee for the baby.

We’re going via Frankfurt then Panama City. (The ticket was cheaper than leaving from Frankfurt with less flight time).
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
LÉ LéonEquateur Veteran ·
Hi Guillermo,

It depends on which islands you'd like to visit! Could you tell me a bit more about what you're interested in? Snorkeling, relaxation, diving, bike rides, fishing, hiking, etc.?

In 8 days, you can stay on at least 2 islands (Santa Cruz and San Cristobal or Santa Cruz and Isabela), or even 3 if you prefer exploring on your own rather than on organized tours.

As I think I’ve mentioned before, there are plenty of free, public-access beaches where you can relax and snorkel. There are also interpretation centers that might be interesting (except for Darwin, which is currently under renovation) and a few hikes.

For example, on each island, you can easily keep busy the first day independently and then explore a more remote island on a tour the second day (e.g., Bartholomé from Santa Cruz, Española from San Cristobal, Los Tuneles from Isabela, etc.). This is just an example—I’ll let you decide what works best for you.

By the way, did you drop the idea of staying on Floreana? ;-)

See you soon,

Léon
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
Hey Leon!

No, we haven’t ruled out Floreana, but right now we’re just focusing on booking our flight tickets (we got burned in Nicaragua thinking we’d find last-minute flights to Isla del Maíz… so we don’t want to repeat that experience for the Galápagos). :)

We’re heading to Vietnam in May for a romantic trip, and we haven’t even looked into what we’ll do there yet—that’s why we’re taking each trip one at a time and haven’t had the chance to really dig into how and what to do (though we have a rough idea). (That’s also why I haven’t reached out via PM yet about your first message in this thread, by the way ;) )

Your reply already gives me some ideas—I’ll discuss it with my wife, but with a little one, we’ll probably limit ourselves to 2 islands, even if it means doing one or two day trips. That’s probably the better option ;) (Now we just have to figure out which islands to book our internal flight to ^^)

Good luck!
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
DO Domika74 Regular ·
Thanks for the price and layover info... So the prices I found aren’t that crazy: 1300 € per person for a round-trip to the Galápagos... 🤪 my "dear" Ecuador 😛 I can find cheaper, but that’d mean 28 hours of travel via the US—no thanks, that’d be too tiring... I’ll keep searching and watch for price increases or drops.
Love, Live, Travel...
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
It also depends a lot on: 1. The time of year (I’ve seen round-trip tickets for 680 € in June) 2. Your departure airport (sometimes it’s worth going a bit farther even if the trip isn’t great) 3. Using the usual tricks (clear cookies, book on Tuesday evening); leave mid-week if you can. :); But we’re getting a little off-topic here—if you want to chat more, DM me. I’m getting pretty good at finding deals for Latin America! ^^
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
Practical question: I’m about to book the internal flight from Guayaquil to the Galapagos.

We’re leaving Guayaquil on Monday, August 14th at 3:00 PM. Is taking a domestic flight in the morning to arrive directly at the airport too risky? Is it the same airport for both international and domestic flights?

Along the same lines, we’re wondering whether to leave on Saturday the 5th or Sunday the 6th. With a little one, I’m hesitant about booking a round-trip to Baltra and exploring from Puerto Ayora, and possibly going to Isabela (with the baby, I think avoiding transfers and changing accommodations every two days is best). What do you think?

PS: The Lonely Planet says we need to reconfirm our return flights with the airline?
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
LÉ LéonEquateur Veteran ·
Hi Guillermo,

A lot of travelers do this when there’s enough time between flights! It’s indeed the same airport for both domestic and international flights.

For a 3:00 PM flight, though, I think it’s a bit risky—it leaves you very little wiggle room if there’s a delay. I’d recommend returning to the mainland a day earlier so you can travel with peace of mind. For flights, the same rule applies to everyone: it’s better to check in online now.

For the outbound trip, what time are your flights? Same advice—plan for extra time, especially since checking in for the Galápagos takes a bit longer.

If you’re looking for a place outside Guayaquil for your last night in Ecuador, I have a contact near the Churute mangroves at a cocoa farm. Perfect for staying in a special environment and... stocking up on chocolate 😛 Interested?

Near Quito’s airport, I also have a few small recommendations. Let me know in a DM if you’d like the details, and I’ll share everything.

If you’re spending a full week in the archipelago, it’s definitely worth staying on two islands to mix things up. Isabela is wilder and quieter than Santa Cruz—it’s nice. Oh, and what about Floreana? Have you dropped the idea?

See you soon,

Léon
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
For now, we haven’t looked at our itinerary yet and won’t until June. We’ve got the Vietnam trip in 2 months, so we’re pretty much focused on that right now ;)

That said, since we got burned in Nicaragua 2 years ago by waiting too long to book tickets for Islas del Maiz, we’re checking our Galápagos flights right away—but it still raises a few questions.

We haven’t given up on Floreana, but with a baby, it’s clear we can’t change accommodations every day (well, we *could*, but I feel like the nights would be rough^^). So I was wondering if it’s really worth going to San Cristóbal? Or should we focus on Santa Cruz and exploring, plus another island where we can stay a few days?

This would change the return location for the ticket I’m booking ^^

We arrive on 07/21 and return on 08/14. So we’d leave the Galápagos on the 13th; for the outbound flight, I’m hesitating between arriving on the 5th or the 6th (all flights are in the morning anyway). From what I’ve seen, we can still make the most of the half-day left on the day we arrive? I’ll admit I’m tempted to book an extra day—1. given the daily budget, and 2. it means one less day on the mainland—but on the other hand, I won’t be coming back every year, so I don’t know. What do you think?
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
LÉ LéonEquateur Veteran ·
Hi Guillermo,

When it comes to choosing between the inhabited islands, it all depends on what you're looking for!

Staying on a wilder island can be really nice with your little one, in my opinion. Isabela has two great half-day excursions (on top of diving to see hammerhead sharks), which is practical since they’re not too long with a child. Floreana is off the beaten path—it’s a truly unique adventure.

For your first half-day in Santa Cruz, you could go to the beach or head up to see the giant tortoises. The whole family will be impressed 😉

How long to stay in the Galápagos? A week is great. Longer is even better, of course! But there’s also a lot to explore on the mainland. Again, it depends on what you want (and your budget).

I’m here if you need any more help.

Talk soon,

Léon

PS: Are you planning to explore the deep Amazon? If so, make sure to book as soon as possible—July-August is peak season, and the best lodges can fill up fast.
PO PoppieSophie Regular ·
Hi there,

I skimmed the discussion, but we did Ecuador in 2015 with our 17-month-old son at the time. The context was different since we were traveling in a Kombi for six months, but here are a few tips if they help:

- We had two "carrying options": a Deuter backpack for hiking and a physiological baby carrier for cuddles and naps. But I agree with some of the feedback: not all kids like being carried the same way, and especially around 18 months, long hikes aren’t their favorite—they want to walk and move around. In short, less of the backpack-style baby carrier if you’re hiking. On the other hand, a stroller seems like a real hassle: the country isn’t made for them, and it’s extra luggage. Even with a lightweight cane stroller, you won’t be able to carry much more than one bag. (Though even in Paris, I’m not a stroller fan.)

- No travel crib—too bulky. We travel with an Oxybul tent (same concept as the "2-second" tents but kid-sized, with a self-inflating mattress and mosquito net: lightweight, compact, and practical—it fits in a bag).

- Ecuador is a fantastic place with kids: I recommend Mindo, Quilotoa, and Otavalo. We really loved Cotopaxi, though it’s true there aren’t many accommodations there.

For the Galápagos, we spent a week on Santa Cruz and Isabela. In both places, we did day trips by boat. The locals were lovely and offered to look after our son while we snorkeled together—without overdoing it, of course. And Léo loved all the animals and swimming next to sea lions and turtles. On Santa Cruz, you can also do day hikes, and on Isabela, you can go see the giant tortoises.

Happy trip planning!

Sophie
All the family http://lionsinthebag.e-monsite.com/ (voyage 2018-2019) http://leregarddulion.wordpress.com (Voyage 2014-2015)
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
Thanks for your replies!

How did you handle restaurants? (Or where did you "leave" the little one?)
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
I'm back!

Now that we're back from Vietnam, I'm starting to plan our trip to Ecuador!

We've scheduled 4 days in Quito when we arrive. I was thinking of taking a trip to the Papallacta hot springs from Quito. Is that easily doable in a day? With a 16-month-old child as well?

After that, we'd like to head down to visit Cotopaxi Park and Quilotoa. Is it possible to do this in a day from Quito, or should we set up a base further south? If so, where? About Quilotoa: how would you recommend exploring it? Just the lagoon? Is it possible to do a short hike on part of the loop? For Cotopaxi, I’d love some practical info! (How to get there, how to leave, haciendas, hiking with a little one, etc.)

Next, I’d like to stop by Baños before heading down to Riobamba and Cuenca. For Chimborazo, same question: what’s feasible with our little one? A full-day or half-day hike? From which town is it best to explore?

I’d like to spend at least 3 days in Cuenca before flying to Guayaquil for the Galápagos. Anything to do in the area? (Is Nariz del Diablo really worth it?)

Any suggestions?

Another purely practical question: We usually travel with two 75L bags plus a backpack as carry-on. We’re considering taking one 75L bag and a smaller one (ideally a 35L carry-on) and doing laundry on the go. Does that seem doable? What size should the small bag be (in liters)? Any recommendations? (I like Fjällräven—durable and practical.)

Thanks!
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
LÉ LéonEquateur Veteran ·
Hi Guillermo!

Yes, it's possible to visit Papallacta as a day trip—there are public buses and even shuttles on weekends. That said, I’m not sure if your little one will enjoy the hot springs; you know them best! ;-)

With four days, you’ll have time to explore the capital and venture off the beaten path. Consider checking out La Floresta neighborhood, the Guayasamín Museum, or Metropolitano Park. If you’re acclimated to the altitude, the cable car is a must, of course.

For Cotopaxi and Quilotoa, I’d recommend basing yourself further south to save time on transportation—something neither kids nor adults ever enjoy too much.

If you’re using public transport, I really like Machachi. It’s peaceful and super convenient for exploring Cotopaxi National Park. Plus, you’ve got the refreshing Güitig pool, which is always a hit after hikes.

Right by the lagoon, there aren’t many charming accommodations. I’d suggest staying a bit farther away, like at Posada de Tigua. With your little one, you should be able to make it down to Chugchilan—it’s a manageable stretch if you’re active.

Also, consider leaving your luggage in storage in Latacunga (around $1 USD per day).

Baños is famous for its waterfalls, Casa del Árbol, and… hot springs. It might overlap with Papallacta, so that’s up to you.

For Chimborazo, I’d lean toward the small village of Salinas de Guaranda. It’s lively and very authentic. The area has tons of hiking options, so you’ll definitely find something you love. And I’m sure your baby will adore the vicuñas! ;-)

In Cuenca, you’ve got Cajas National Park nearby. The city itself is lovely, too—great for a few relaxing days. Don’t miss the Guamote market on Thursdays; it’s the most famous in the country.

Nariz del Diablo offers stunning views when the weather’s clear. If you like trains, it’s always a fun experience. Just remember to book in advance through their website, especially on weekends.

For practicalities, laundromats are easy to find in major cities, and some hotels offer the service too. As for bags, I’ll let the experts chime in! ;-)

Happy to help with any other questions about Ecuador.

Cheers, Léon
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
Hi Leon,

A few questions:

Hola Guillermo! Yes, it's possible to go to Papallacta for the day. There are public buses and even shuttles on weekends. That said, I don’t know if your baby will enjoy the hot springs—you know them better than we do! ;-)

No problem, they’ll have a blast!

For Cotopaxi and Quilotoa, I recommend basing yourselves further south. It’ll save you a lot of travel time, which is always a plus for both little ones and adults.

Some guides/forums mention doing it as a day trip from Quito. How feasible is that? Would you recommend renting a car? If so, it’d let us stay in one place longer with the little one and avoid packing/unpacking constantly.

If you're using public transport, I really like Machachi. It’s very peaceful and super convenient for exploring Cotopaxi National Park. Plus, you’ve got the refreshing Güitig pool—always a hit after hikes.

Right by the lagoon, there aren’t many charming accommodations. I usually suggest staying a bit further away, like at Posada de Tigua. With your little one, you should be able to make it down to Chugchilan—it’s a manageable stretch if you’re up for it.

Is it possible to visit the park AND Quilotoa from the haciendas near the park? If so, what’s the best way to get around, and where should we go (the lagoon and/or which part of the loop)?

Also, consider leaving your luggage in storage in Latacunga (about $1 USD per day).

I’m a bit confused—leave our bags in Latacunga while we do the loop for the day? :) What do you think of Latacunga as a base in the south?

Baños is famous for its waterfalls, the Casa del Árbol, and... the hot springs. Might be a repeat of Papallacta, so it’s up to you.

I’d love to bike down to Puyo! Maybe even try a bit of rafting (without the baby, obviously ^^)

For Chimborazo, I’d lean toward the small village of Salinas de Guaranda. It’s very lively and authentic. The area has tons of hiking options, so you’ll definitely find something you love. And I’m sure your baby will adore the vicuñas! ;-)

Unless I missed it, there’s very little info in the *Routard* or *Lonely Planet* guides. I’ve seen Salinas on one side and Guaranda in the guides on the other. What do you recommend? How do you get to the park entrance? Is it easy to explore (self-guided circuits)?

Thanks!

Suerte!
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
CA Cassius Veteran ·
Hi there; You can get to the park entrance by taxi (check with an agency or your accommodation). For rafting, you can find some in Mindo. The bike descent to Puyo is awesome. For the return trip, the bus will take your bike back up. For buses, ask around once you're there. You can visit Cotopaxi Park in a day, either from Quito, Machachi, or Latacunga. It’s up to you to negotiate with a few agencies or taxis. Alternatively, take a bus that drops you at the park entrance, and vehicles will take you up to the lagoon or the refuge parking lot.
gerard
LÉ LéonEquateur Veteran ·
Hi Guillermo,

How’s it going? Making progress, making progress 😉

Yes, you can do the Cotopaxi volcano and Quilotoa Lagoon in a day from the same hotel. With public transport and taxis, it’ll work out great! Of course, you’ll need to get up early.

From Quito, if you rent a car, you’ll likely spend a lot of time in traffic due to congestion—I wouldn’t recommend it. Plus, during rush hours (7–9 AM and 4–8 PM), the buses are packed, and it won’t be very pleasant with your baby. I’d suggest basing yourself in a town to the south for easier access.

Latacunga is very practical but really lacks charm, which is a shame in such a beautiful region. Nearby, Saquisilí is a bit nicer—you’ve got places like Quinta Las Mercedes there. If you’re there on a Thursday, you can check out its livestock market. Depending on your budget, you could also stay at a hacienda along the Panamericana—there are some really lovely ones.

I thought you wanted to do part of the Quilotoa Loop and stay overnight in Chugchilán. If you’re up for a day hike, you can walk around the lagoon—it’s already a gorgeous trek. You can also start from Zumbahua. If you stay at Posada de Tigua, it could be amazing!

Oh yeah, the waterfall route is fantastic. Some of them are really impressive. For rafting, there are plenty of agencies—don’t hesitate to negotiate.

Guides don’t know everything—they don’t have the chance to live here 😉 Salinas de Guaranda is a small village where tourism is just starting to take off. The hotel La Minga is great, and the pizzeria next door is unforgettable. Getting to the park entrance by bus works well. After that, if you want to stop along the way for photos of the volcano and vicuñas, taxis are a good option—they’re affordable in this region.

At the park entrance, there’s a big map that’ll help you choose a hike. Some trails are well-marked, others less so, but it’s still easy to explore even without a guide since it’s simple to find your way.

I’m happy to help you refine your itinerary!

Have a great Sunday, Léon
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
Hi!

Okay, here’s roughly how I see things (barring any surprises). Arrival Friday the 21st in the evening. Saturday, Sunday, Monday: Quito Tuesday: Papallacta, leaving in the late afternoon for Hacienda Control Norte near Cotopaxi Wednesday: Cotopaxi Thursday: Taxi (can we book one from the hacienda, I assume?) to the lagoon; on the way back, head to Baños (is it possible to rent the taxi for the whole day so it takes us straight from the lagoon to Baños? Otherwise, what’s the best way to get from Cotopaxi (hacienda) to Baños in the late afternoon?) Friday: Bike descent to Puyo Saturday: Baños/waterfalls, evening departure for Salinas (doable or too much transport?) Sunday, Monday: Cotopaxi Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday: Cuenca → departure for Guayaquil Friday morning Saturday: Departure for the Galápagos (8 days).

There’s a chance to add another day in Cuenca to spend more time at Cotopaxi. What do you think? Do the transport hops seem manageable, especially the late-afternoon ones?

Thanks so much! (Whereabouts do you live, by the way?)

Good luck!
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
CA Cassius Veteran ·
Hi there. What are you planning to do during your 3 days in Quito when you arrive? Wouldn’t it be better to save a day in the capital for your return and head straight to Papallacta for a few days? Then head to the Cotopaxi hacienda and do some hikes in the park. You could also take buses to Baños via Ambato or to Quilotoa via Latacunga. Four days in Cuenca is more than enough in my opinion, and 3 days in Cotopaxi Park is plenty too. Looking forward to hearing from you.
gerard
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
I’m not going back through Quito on the return trip—I have a flight from Guayaquil to Panama, then Panama to Frankfurt :)
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-

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