Bonjour Hannah, Bonjour à tous, nous préparons un 4ème voyage au Maroc et nous avons beaucoup apprécié vos précieuses informations et vos photos qui montrent bien comment et combien vous aimez ce pays. Si ce n'est pas abuser de votre disponibilité, votre avis sur l'itinéraire que nous avons prévu nous serait très utile.
Dans ce voyage comme dans les précédents, nous avons envie de retrouver la belle hospitalité des marocains. Si vous avez quelques adresses à nous recommander le long de notre chemin - que ce soit pour les repas ou pour les nuits - merci de nous les indiquer, ce seront certainement de bons moments de partage.
Encore un grand merci pour votre aide.
Mario et Marie
Voici le parcours en 19 jours du 4 au 22 Novembre 2018 :
1) arrivée , direction Sud , arrêt à Tifnit , Oued massa , Aglou Plage et nuit à MIRLEFT
2 ) Legzira beach, Sidi Ifni, Sidi Ouarzeg, Guelmim, Tighmert, Tagjijt, nuit à AMTOUDI
3 ) Gorges et greniers d'Amtoudi, RN12 vers Icht, RN107 vers Kerdouss, descente vers Tafraoute , nuit à TAFRAOUTE
4) Gorges d'Ait Mansour, route d'Izerbi, gorges de Tirerkine nuit à TAFRAOUTE
5) Vallée des Ammeln nuit à TAFRAOUTE
6) Djebel l'Kest, Oasis de montagne Targua n'Touchka nuit à TAFRAOUTE
7) Tafroute, Igherm, Taliouine par la R106 nuit à TALIOUINE
8) Aït Ben Haddou , visite du Ksar nuit près de AIT BEN HADDOU
9) Vallée Ounila, Telouet, Tizi N'Tichka, Cascades d'Ouzoud , nuit à OUZOUD
10) Cascades d'Ouzoud Vallée Aït Bougmez (vérifier l'état de la route) Grenier de Sidi Moussa nuit à AGOUTI ou TABANT
11) Aït Bougmez, Bin el Ouidane, Taguelft, Imilchil nuit à IMILCHI
12) Imilchil, Rich, Gorges du Ziz, nuit à MIDELT,
13) Aguelmame Azigza, Oum er Rbia , Azrou nuit à AZROU
14) Fès et environs jusqu'au départ , 5 nuits à FEZ . ( appartement déjà réservé).
Bonjour Mario,
Voici de quoi répondre à quelques unes de vos questions, concernant les adresses où vous poser par exemple. Je vous en souhaite bonne lecture et je répondrais volontiers à vos interrogations.
Je vois que vous avais remis le sujet dans le bon forum 😉
Pour la deuxième nuit il, me semble que de Mirleft ä Amtoudi ca vas vous faire beaucoup de route , pour Amtoudi j'ai testé en Maî l'ancienne auberge " on dirait le Sud" quî s'appelle aujourd'hui " l'ombre de l'Arganier et j'ai beaucoup apprecie .
3 eme jour , une route qui part d'Amtoudi et passe par Ifrane de l'anti Atlas vous permet de rejoindre le col du Kerdous . Si vous avez un 4X4 ou un Duster vous pouvez meme prendre ä lä sortie d'Amtoudi sur la droite une belle piste qui vas direct ä Tafraoute , des greniers en ruines , des paysages somptueux . Sinon par Icht remonter par l'ancienne piste qui est aujourd'hui goudronnee et traverse quelques beaux canyons et palmeraie , elle arrive un peu avant Izerbi .
Tafraoute pour moi c'est " L'arganier d'Almenne" quî reste mon auberge préférée , y'a pas photo . Pour l'oasis de Targa n'Touchka il y a une superbe route / piste qui lä rejoint . Il faut tourner à droite quelques kms Apres Tanalt , dans le village en haut de la côte . J'ai beaucoup aimé , attention il faut de bons freins .
La route 106! , un plaisir pour les paysages , quelques radiers entre Igherm et Taliouine mais on passe avec une Logan sans probleme . Ä Taliouine ne loupez pas une halte exceptionnelle en tout point " Escale Rando" , attention il n'y a que quelques chambres et ça commence à être connu il est prudent de réserver .
Pour les Ait Bougmez le gîte " chez Ali " ou le Flouka , , on peut prendre une route avec quelques kms de piste à partir de Imin'ifri , c'est encore sauvage . Ensuite redescendre par Azilal pour aller à Ouzoud . Pour y aller tourner Apres Ait Ourir en direction de Demnate , ce seras mieux pour organiser votre circuit .
Imilchil " chez Bassou" ou un gîte qui a l'air sympa et quî est cité sur un post Imilchil ( faites une recherche) .
Ä Azrou , je loge sur la place ou dans lä Medina un Hotel / école . L'aguelman Azigza que du plaisir , en prenant les pistes derrières on peut photographier des singes qui sont beaucoup plus sauvages que ceux rencontrés au cèdre Gouraud . Surtout ne rien leur donner à manger .
Bon , j'ai fait le tour et je vous renvoi à mon dernier carnet de voyage ou j'ai évoqué une bonne partie de ces lieux .
https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=8969127;#8969127
Je rajoute ce fil un peu ancien que j'avais mis en ligne sur les Ait Bougmez
J'ai eu l'occasion d'aller chez Zaïd Ouchaoua, très bien, familial, d'une propreté irréprochable. Et aussi chez Bassou , un jour où le gîte en face était complet, et c'est bien aussi.
C'est pour un prochain départ ?
Non c'est pour la personne qui a initié le post , lui donner des plans sur Imilchil .
Prochain depart ....pas avant Avril . Octobre je vais faire un petit tour en Lozère .
Bref à moins de gagner au loto du patrimoine ou de faire une cagnotte pas possible avant . Et toi ?
Un grand merci à tous ceux qui nous ont donné leurs tuyaux...nous peaufinons encore le programme de notre prochaine escapade au Maroc mais les grandes lignes sont fixées et la majorités des résa ont été réalisées.
Nous ne manquerons pas de vous solliciter à nouveau si nous avons d'autres questions.
Merci encore
Amicalement
Bien, ça n'a pas tardé pour vous re-solliciter. Suivant notre parcours, ils nous manquent encore qques adresses de logement: à Mirleft, Telouet, Ouzoud, Agouti dans la vallée d'Aït Bougmez et aux alentours de Rich avant de rejoindre Fès.
Si vous avez des bonnes adresses, nous sommes preneurs.
En tout cas, merci d'avance à tous.
Bien, ça n'a pas tardé pour vous re-solliciter. Suivant notre parcours, ils nous manquent encore qques adresses de logement: à Mirleft, Telouet, Ouzoud, Agouti dans la vallée d'Aït Bougmez et aux alentours de Rich avant de rejoindre Fès.
Si vous avez des bonnes adresses, nous sommes preneurs.
En tout cas, merci d'avance à tous.
Merci pour ce reportage qui interrompt un rêve.....mais pour des amoureux de la nature la route qui y mène et qui continue jusqu’à Ait Baha vaut elle le détour ?
J'ai decouvert cette oasis après avoir eu connaissance ces méfaits dénoncés par une association locale sur un blog . J'ai voulu voir ce qu'il en était .
Si le village lui même semble ne plus être entretenu les alentours sont tout de même superbes , la route qui y mène vaut le détour pour les amoureux de la nature , la vieille piste aujourd'hui goudronnée ( elle arrive à l'est du village et traverse la palmeraie ) permet de voir des maisons traditionnelles qui mériteraient d'être entretenues . La palmeraie elle meme m'a parue mal entretenue , sauf par endroit où l'on peut voir de petits jardins et de vieilles maisons en etat . Cette oasis est loin de tout , la route difficile , l'exode rural a fait le reste comme dans beaucoup d'endroits au Maroc .
Quelle que soit la route qui y mène i vous aimez la nature vous ne serez pas déçu .
Oui c’est bien un paysage comme nous les aimons merci
Sur une de vos discussions vous évoquiez le projet d’aller au fort Bou Cherif.
Nous pensons y faire étape , quel est votre avis sur ce lieu. J’ai trouvé des avis tellement partagés .
Bonjour voisin, nous sommes de saint julien des landes. Fort Bou jérif vaut le coup d'œil, au milieu de rien. Si tu n'est pas en 4-4 comme nous il faut faire 17 Km de bonne piste de la route entre Guelmin et la plage blanche, on ne peut pas rejoindre Sidi Ifni depuis Fort Bou Jérif. il y a les ruines du vieux fort que l'on peut visiter peinard si des foux en quads ne viennent pas briser le silence. On y mange bien. Pour se faire plaisir il y a une chambre dans la tour, un peu chère, mais c'est tellement calme, qu'on oublie le prix (on entends un peu le groupe électrogène mais pas longtemps.
Effectivement nous sommes dans le même secteur.
Nous pensions rejoindre le fort à partir de Sidi Ifni, nous louons un Duster en principe on devrait passer
Vous aviez loué l’herbegement auprès du complexe touristique la chambre dans la tour correspond à la formule hôtel où petit hôtel
Lors de cette étape vous aviez fait quel circuit sur l’anti atlas ?
Re: un Duster passe peut'etre, sauf si il a plue, je ne sait pas dans qu'elle catégorie est la tour, nous avions louer sur place. Pour les étapes, un peu partout au Maroc, 22 séjours de 1 à 2 mois chaque fois, et malgré cela on decouvre à chaque voyage de nouvelles choses. nous privilégeons le sud. Salut.
Bonjour,
Fort Bou Jerif (le complexe hôtelier) est situé dans un endroit au milieu de nulle part à l'ancienne frontière entre le Maroc et l'enclave espagnole de Sidi Ifni.
C'est un étape traditionnelle de rallyes et l'établissement est très bien conçu pour cela.
Pour la tranquillité individuelle et un minimum de service correct, il vaut mieux éviter ces périodes là. Je n'en suis pas du tout fan trouvant le rapport qualité/prix mauvais (avis après séjour).
L'état des 10-11km de piste depuis la bifurcation de Sidi Ifni en direction du fort dépendent des pluies. Le point le plus délicat est le passage du gué aux pieds des ruines du fort.
Vous avez un oued à sec à franchir après 2-2.5km de piste. Si le passage est délicat (gros cailloux, traces peu marquées, bien remuant etc...), la suite le sera aussi.
Conseil : avant de vous engager sur la piste, appelez le fort pour savoir si le gué est franchissable.
Assurez-vous que le loueur autorise les pistes.
Bon week end
Nous partons moi et ma copine dans une semaine au Maroc. Nous avons 11 jours sur place. J'aurais besoin quelques conseils pour établir un itinéraire sympa…
Nous partons au Marc cet été avec nos trois enfants (4,8 et 11 ans). Je suis en train de planifier notre séjour et aurais aimé avoir l'avis de gens qui…
Je pars avec un pote du 21/03 au 3/04 dans le sud du Maroc, j'aurai souhaité avoir des avis sur l'itinéraire envisagé; l'idée étant d'être assez flexible tout…
Aux connaisseurs du Maroc. Partons en couple du 10 au 17 décembre pour le sud marocain avec juste billets d'avion en arrivant a Agadir et retour de Marrakech.…
Je souhaite réaliser un parcours itinérant pour mars 2015 au départ de Marrakech. Je voudrai avoir des informations sur le sud du Maroc, le désert de Chegaga…
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening
Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada
Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon
Day 6: Luxor
Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon
Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada
Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van.
Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques
Hi there,
I have a layover in Algeria.
I won’t be leaving the airport.
The two tickets aren’t with the same airline.
Do I need a transit visa?
Thanks for any details and your help!
Hi there,
I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days.
We’ll be renting a car to get around.
Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy?
My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal!
Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!
Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges.
Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime.
If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving...
Happy to answer any questions!
Hi there,
I’m traveling solo to Egypt. Could you give me a rough idea of the budget for:
meals
hotels
taxis including tips
visits...
Just an estimate, of course.
For 15 days, what would the price range be, considering there’s an overnight train and a Nile cruise?
I’d like to compare with a travel agency. Is it more worthwhile to go through an agency despite the downsides of group travel?
Otherwise, if a travel buddy is interested in this country, why not?
Thanks a lot!
