Je pars en Ethiopie dans une semaine et pour trois semaines de visites (3 au 24 juin), dont la dernière seul. J'ai lu attentivement tous vos conseils sur les posts de 2008 à 2012. Très utiles, merci! Quelques questions subsistent néanmoins...
Nous pensons suivre la route historique, en utilisant les (mini)bus et l'avion. Nous pensons suivre la boucle dans ce sens :
- Une journée de route en minibus Addis-Bahar Dar, puis 2 jours sur place pour visiter les îles-monastères et les chutes du Nil
- Une demi-journée de route vers Gondar, puis 1 à 2 jours de visites sur place.
- Une journée de route, ou, plus raisonnablement, un vol vers Békélé, puis 2 jours de visites des églises rupestres du Tigré
- Une journée de route vers Lalibela, puis 2 jours sur place.
- La semaine suivante (16-24/06), je pensais continuer seul ma découverte de ce pays qui semble magnifique et je pense redescendre plus tranquillement vers Addis et poursuivre vers le sud ou vers Harar.
Plusieurs questions :
1) Ce périple semble-t-il raisonnable au baroudeurs et connaisseurs de l'Ethiopie de ce forum, en sachant qu'il contiendrait un ou deux vols?
2) Me conseillez-vous de prolonger vers le sud ou de redescendre tranquillement de Lalibela à Addis, puis de rayonner depuis Addis avec des visites alentours?
3) Y a-t-il d'autres voyageurs qui seront en Ethiopie à cette période de l'année?
4) Dans quelle mesure la saison des pluies qui débute ralentit-elle les trajets par route?
J'ai lu sur ce forum que les guides Lonely planet et Petit futé ne sont pas trop recommandés et que le Bradt est à privilégier notamment pour les apsects pratiques.
5) Pouvez-vous m'expliquer vos réticences à utiliser ces deux guides une fois sur place (J'ai déjà acheté l'Olizane pour les descriptions historico-culturelles...)
6) Existe-t-il des distributeurs de billets de banque autre part qu'Addis Abeba sur la route historique?
Bonjour,
Il n y a pas a ma connaissance deja des appareils ATM en dehors de la capitale.
A Bahir Dar , il y a le Ghion hotel ou The Annex , un sorte de BB.
Pour Addis , il n'y que le Taitu hotel, avec chambres de toutes sortes et prix qui attire toutes les voyageurs.
Je crois que le planning du Nord est faisable, peut etre un jour a Gonder est assez et un jour en plus pour voir les eglises pres de Mekele. Je crois qu il faut louer une voiture pour arriver a ces eglises reculé.
Le nouveau guide du petit futé ethiopie sortira en septembre ainsi que celui du Bradt.
Comme beaucoup change vite dans ce pays, il n y a pas pour le moment un guide qui est actualisé.
bon voyage,
jan
je voulais juste répondre sur les point 1) et 6) car j'entends pas mal de bêtises sur ces sujets.
point 6) On peut sans aucun problème retirer de l'argent dans la plupart des villes éthiopiennes (route historique, harar.......). Pour cela il faut se rendre dans les établissements bancaires (Dashen bank, western union....) en allant au guichet (muni de votre carte bancaire bien sur)....
par contre le paiement par carte bancaire dans les hotels est difficile car la machine à carte ne fonctionne jamais (sauf au hilton d'addis ou établissements du même type)...bref, il vaut mieux se munir de birr, dollar ou euros...mais comme la vie n'est pas chère en ethiopie vous n'aurez pas besoin de vous promener avec de grosses sommes d'argent sur vous (même si vous allez dans les bons hotels des villes).
point 1) La route historique peut être faite en moins d'une semaine sans soucis si vous utilisez les vols intérieurs (avions bombardier flambants neufs)....mais bon, ce sont des amis ethiopiens qui m'avaient organisés le séjour...et sur cette durée beaucoup de personnes vont crier au scandale en disant que c'est trop rapide...sauf pour les ethiopiens qui trouvent qu'une semaine suffit amplement...a chacun de voir.
Je "plussoie" au point de vue de Jean-François. Les cartes de crédit sont de plus en plus acceptées dans les hôtels haut de gamme d'Addis, mais aussi dans les bureaux des principales compagnies aériennes (EA, Lufthansa, Turkish Airlines, ...). Pas mal de boutiques du côté de Bole, des galeries d'art, des restaurants commencent d'accepter les CC, pour autant que la liaison fonctionne entre leurs lecteurs de cartes et le central d'Ethiopian Telecom, ce qui est une autre histoire 😕!!! Pour les autres villes du pays (les liaisons hertziennes étant souvent aléatoires et la fibre optique peut enterrée et donc sensible le long des routes) l'usage des CC est rare et aléatoire.
Egalement d'accord concernant la route historique qui peut être faite (pour la petite boucle Bahir Dar, Gondar, Lalibela) en une semaine, malgré ce que d'aucuns s'efforcent de dénigrer. La flotte des avions d'EA pour le trafic national a été renouvelée, la fiabilité nettement améliorée et les horaires s'en ressentent aussi. Une route historique rapide et bien organisée avec vols intérieurs est tout à fait réaliste pour celui qui veut voir un maximum en très peu de temps. Pas nécessairement besoin de se taper des heures de bus ou de minibus pour apprécier les paysages éthiopiens si merveilleux vus du ciel.
Salut Jneraf,
Je suis habituellement assez d'accord avec toi concernant l'Ethiopie.
Par contre, je trouve que tu exagères un peu en laissant entendre qu'on peut apprécier les paysages éthiopien aussi bien en avion qu'au sol.
Je parcours ce pays un peu dans tous les sens et je ne cesse de m'émerveiller de ses paysages.
J'ai eu l'occasion d'en survoler un certain nombre et je suis délosé mais, pour moi, il n'y a pas photo.
Je nesais pas quand tu as l'intention d'y retourner. Pour ma part, j'y serai très probablement en septembre prochain.
Si c'est ton cas aussi, fais le moi savoir, on pourra peut-être se rencontrer.
A +
Je ne pense pas exagérer en disant que l'Ethiopie vue d'avion est magnifique. La perspective est simplement différente de celle que l'on a en étant assis bien serré dans un bus public ou un minibus bondé. Dans mon appréciation je me mettais à la place des personnes qui ont peu de temps à disposition et qui veulent voir les principales étapes de la route historique sans passer des heures sur la route avec ce que ça peut comporter comme risques et parfois inconfort.
Bien sûr que les paysages sont fabuleux vu des routes, mais pas tous! Combien d'heures à rouler dans des plaines monotones sur des pistes poussiéreuses, à moitié avachi et somnolent, pour quelques instants de pur bonheur devant des panoramas grandioses qui restent à jamais gravés dans nos mémoires? Pour notre part nous avons passé assez d'heures sur ou dans des véhicules à 2 ou 4 roues pour savoir que le voyage sur route n'est pas toujours une sinécure en Ethiopie, en tous les cas pas un plaisir permanent... Et l'Ethiopie n'est pas faite que des Simien, du Bale et du Tigre ou d'autres endroits splendides, il y a de nombreuses zones bien moins intéressantes et immenses qu'il est nécessaire de traverser pour accéder aux "must be seen". Alors pour une semaine permets-moi de suggérer un moyen de transport rapide qui laissera certainement un meilleur souvenir aux voyageurs moins chanceux (du point de vue temporel) que toi ou moi.
J'avais prévu de retourner en Ethiopie l'hiver prochain mais devant la situation intérieure qui se dégrade (je sais ce dont je parle puisqu'une partie de ma famille y vit) à tous les niveaux (social, économique, ethnique, frontalier, écologique) ma petite fibre éthique me freine de rouler à nouveau ma bosse dans un pays dont la population subit une pression qui ressemble de plus en plus à celle de sa voisine du nord. De plus la plupart des régions qu'il me reste à découvrir sont situées dans des zones pour l'instant potentiellement dangereuses (Gambela, frontière Eth.-Soudan, Ogaden, ...) où je me refuse à aller jouer avec le feu.
Espérons que la situation s'améliorera dans un proche avenir, de toute façon j'y retournerai un jour pour voir ma famille mais pas forcément dans la situation actuelle.
Je ne discuterai pas ton point de vue.
Pour ce qui me concerne, à part la plaine de Weito, entre Weito et le début de la montée vers le pays Hamer, je n'ai pas trouvé de parcours monotones.
Je ne sais pas si tu connais mais si tu n'y es pas allé, il y a un endroit à découvrir où il n'y a guère de risque. C'est le Benishangul-Gumuz (orthographe incertaine).
Le Sud par Nekemte et le Nord par la toute Gondar - Soudan.
Contrée intéressante avec des peuples à connaitre.
J.L.M
Même si ma participation est très tardive (vous êtes déjà en voyage mais y étais moi aussi jusqu'à il y a peu et n'ai pu répondre avant), elle peut tjrs servir à d'autres.
Pour le tempo, il y a sur VF, comme pour la cuisine, des partisans de la slow food (et du slow travel) et ceux du fast-food et du fast travel.
Si des voyages organisés avec des asiatiques (surtout japonais) "parviennent" à "visiter" l'Europe en une semaine, il est tout à fait possible d'en faire de même avec la route historique (en volant) mais il faut voir si vous vous reconnaissez dans cette manière de procéder.
Ne vaut-il pas mieux envisager un programme réaliste en fonction du temps dont vous disposez?
Vous connaissez mon point de vue mais bien entendu il n'engage que moi.
Pour le Bradt, le fond de votre pensée n'est-il pas celui -ci: Pourquoi employer un guide papier que je trouve difficilement en librairie (ou même que je n'arrive pas à trouver) et que lorsque je cite le nom de l'éditeur, on me regarde comme si je parlais lituanien?
Sauf si vous allez dans une librairie de voyages, vous ne saurez le trouver facilement en Belgique francophone.
Le "Futé" est bien distribué (logique pour Bruxelles et la Wallonie) et le Lonely capitalise sur une image très positive et des titres qui font parfois références mais pas nécessairement pour toutes les destinations.
Avec le GDR (dans un autre registre) et des guides comme les Guides Bleus ou Verts, vous avez les quatre poids lourds des guides de voyage que l'on trouve aussi bien en grandes surfaces (au moins pour certains titres et pour des versions françaises du LP sur des destinations plus "grand public") que dans des librairies plus spécialisées.
Il reste dès lors peu de place pour d'autres éditeurs et surtout pour ceux qui ne publient qu'en anglais.
Bradt a quelques handicaps: l'anglais peut rebuter pas mal de gens, il est plus cher que le "Futé" et le LP (moins grande différence pour ce dernier), il est "épais" et contient bcp de texte (et très peu de photos en proportion de sa pagination). Ils sont aussi sans chichis, avec une mise en page un peu austère et pas de couleur hormis les (rares) photos intérieures et pour la couverture.
Les titres couvrent des destinations "pointues" et pas grand public pour un sou. Les faire rentrer en rayon ne signifie nullement que l'on va parvenir à les vendre.
Bref, toutes ces raisons font que les titres sont diffusés de manière assez anecdotique hormis en librairies de voyages.
La réponse à votre interrogation tient en 6 lettres: C O M P L E T
Le Bradt est le guide-papier le plus complet que vous pouvez trouver sur l'Ethiopie.
Comme vous le savez déjà, l'Olizane est très bien réalisé mais n'est en rien un guide pratique.
Le Lonely consacré à l'Ethiopie couvre aussi l'Erythrée. De par ce choix éditorial, la couverture des deux pays est bien plus succincte que le Bradt (qui lui édite deux titres distincts)
Le "Futé" n'arrive pas non plus à la cheville du Bradt.
Une intervention de caractère général qui a à voir juste avec Bradt, et seulement de manière marginale avec l' Ethiopie:
www.bradtguides.com
a une boutique en ligne extrêmement réactive. J' y ai récemment commandé en bloc les guides Zambie, Zimbabwe, Malawi, Uganda, Rwanda, Mozambique et Tanzanie, ils étaient trois jours après dans ma boite à lettres pour un montant total de € 156,17 transport compris, soit un peu plus de € 22 par bouquin, ce que je trouve très bon marché par rapport à ce qu 'on paie en librairie à Paris (si on les trouve, ce dont je doute, sauf sur commande chez WH Smith on Brentano's), j' ignore à Bruxelles mais cela ne doit guère être mieux...
Une autre info sur Bradt: ils commencent à sortir des guides en format PDF téléchargeables; j' ai pris en mars (avant d' y aller en Avril/Mai) celui du Botswana, prix également de l' ordre de € 25 pour 5 téléchargements, donc € 5 le guide si on a des copains avec qui partager.
Ethiopie est disponible pour £ 16,99 (édition actuelle, nouvelle édition à venir en septembre), la version digitale est disponible pour le même prix...
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Éthiopie · 6 replies
Nous sommes deux couples et partons 3 semaines en octobre pour l'Ethiopie. Je précise "en gros" notre projet d'itinéraire et remercie d'avance tous ceux qui…
De retour de voyage en Ethiopie. Nous, ma femme et moi, avons fait un trekking de 3 jours dans les montagnes de Lalibela, magnifiques paysages et nuits chez…
Travailler, étudier et vivre à l'étranger › Brésil / Sénégal / Éthiopie · 2 replies
Nous sommes des étudiants et jeunes entrepreneurs désireux d'investir dans la production de café bio. Nous sommes entrain d'écrire notre business plan et nous…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Éthiopie · 2 replies
Voici un petit feed-back de trois jours récemment (janv. 2017) passés sur l'itinéraire Konso-Yabelo-Hawassa... après un tour dans la vallée basse de l'Omo avec…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Éthiopie / Kenya · 3 replies
Projetant de venir du Kenya par la "route", en longeant le lac Turkana par la rive Ouest, nous cherchons des informations récentes sur l ' état d avancement de…
Mars ou Mai 2027.
du genre 15 j dans le Western Cape
puis 15 j dans le KNP sud.
Arrivée soit à PE soit à Georges.
Les pros savent que je connais un peu le coin...que je ne campe pas...que mes logements peuvent être simples et paumés, en self catering mais que le basique + est requis...que je cherche des coins plutôt hors des sentiers battus...sur un mode soft...
De Georges:
Arrivée tardive... repos nécessaire... Herolds bay à partir de Georges pour N1
Tsitsikamma me fait de l'oeil (Storms river)... avec ou sans stop à Knysna
question:
quel est l'état actuel de la pass de Knyskna à Uniondale ? R339
Et tant que j'y suis l'état de la R340
Tsitsi, Knysna et mes questions restent valables si c'est arrivée à PE.
La Swartberg semble encore coupée ?
Une idée de logement à Prince Albert ?
Si je franchis l'escarpement je continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... des opinions ?
De là... Tankwa Karoo ou Mount Cedar (ou les deux)
Puis redescente vers la mer... les hauts de Hermanus ou Kogelberg NR (des opinions sur celle ci ?)...
ou
Plus classique le long de la côte...
Si j'arrive (assez tard à PE)... des idées sur un logement dans ce petit coin ?
Sachant que le Nyathi camp me fait un clin d'oeil...
(pour l'histoire... il y a un peu longtemps j'ai séjourné au Riverbend (même secteur d'Addo, concession privée)... et j'ai visité les ruines de ce lodge abandonné à l'époque et visiblement refait depuis... qui se situe dans une partie très peu visitée d'Addo...).
Un pro aurait-il des retours ?
Bon ben voilà...
Evidemment je suis preneur de tout autre avis ou conseil !
Hi there,
I’m considering camping in Nyungwe Park with my family (2 adults, 2 kids) at Uwinka campsite. Problem: the park rents the tent but without any gear (mattresses, blankets). We don’t have a car. Is it possible to rent or buy mattresses and blankets near the park, please?
Thanks for your help
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hello,
We’re planning a route from Maun to Kazane and Victoria Falls for May 2027 in a Toyota Hilux 4x4, staying in lodges (no camping). Here’s the rough outline:
- Maun: Arrival likely from Johannesburg, 2 nights
- Khwai: 2 nights
- Return to Maun
- Need to decide on a stop between Maun and Sepopa?
- Sepopa: 2 nights
- Cross into Namibia: Bagani, 2 nights
- Kongola: 2 nights
- Katima Mulilo: 2 nights
- Kasane: 3 or 4 nights
- Victoria Falls: 1 or 2 nights
- Return to France from Kasane or Victoria Falls
What’s the road condition like between Maun and Khwai? The stop names are approximate based on accommodations.
Thanks for any feedback on this plan!
Ailleurs 64
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers.
We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering:
Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later)
Pretoria – 2 days
Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day
Acornhoek – 1 day
Letaba – 2 days
Lobamba – 2 days
Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days
Cape of Good Hope – 1 day
Stellenbosch – 1 day
Hermanus – 1 day
Mossel Bay – 2 days
Oudtshoorn
Wilderness – 2 days
Knysna
Port Elizabeth – 2 days
Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions.
We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!
Hi,
I’m heading to Angola for two weeks starting mid-April and I’d like to rent a car to explore the country, but not a 4x4 to keep my budget in check. I plan to mostly stay in the western part and go as far as the Namibian border. Is it possible to drive in Iona Park without a 4x4, or to get to Kalendula or Piedra Negras? Also, is the Lubango–Huambo–Kuito–Malanje route doable in a city car? Lastly, do gas stations accept Visa?
Thanks for your feedback and tips!