bon, compliqué de se faire une idée de trajet pour 3 semaines à Mada ... apprécier les temps de trajets et l intéret de chaque site n étant pas simple.
Nous sommes voyageurs sac à dos et nos centres d intérets sont
faune flore locaux snorkeling
quels sont les endroits à privilégier en conséquence ??
possiblité pour baleines ou requin baleine en juin?
parc Marojejy est il une bonne idée ?!
des petits villages perdus en montagne ?
on fait l impasse sur diego suarez , nosy be , fort dauphin, mahajanga , le train fianarantsoa
j essaie de résumer pour pas fatiguer les futures réponses !!
merci par avance les forumistes et merci pour les réponses déja données dans de précédentes discussions
Bon, le choix est déja limité!
Il ne reste guère que la rn7 ou l'Est avec ste marie. en sachant qu'en trois semaines il est difficile de faire les 2 sans courir.
Je ne suis pas sùr que les baleines soient deja là à cette épque, c'est plutôt juillet à septembre; d'autres pourront confirmer.
Pour le parc Marojely, c'est loin de tout et si tu ne veux pas passer par region diego, ce sera l'avion.
Snorkeling; région tulear ou ste marie.
Petits villages de montagne; le long rn7 autour d'ambositra, fianar, ambalavao, ou tana.
Faune; à part dans les parcs tu ne verras rien.
Flore, locaux; un peu partout. Pour la flore tropicale, plutôt la côte Est.
plus je regarde les discussions sur mada et plus jai l impression qu il faut 37 ans pour visiter un seul endroit ...
on verra ce que ca donne ; deja compris que l endémisme réputé de mada ne s apprécie qu en de rares endroits au final , fantasme touristique qui s envole !
Ben oui, c'est plus grand que la France avec un réseau routier mal étudié Puisque vous éliminez le nord-ouest ( pourquoi pas ? ) c'est sur la retombée est entre les plateaux et la côte que vous trouverez votre bonheur avec par exemple le canal des Palanganes . Ste Marie n'est vraiment intéressante que pour observer les baleines .
Dommage que vous ne vouliez pas prendre le petit train depuis Fianarantsoa : c'est pas cher et là on est parfois en pleine nature avec les branches qui fouettent les fenêtres ouvertes !
Si vous voulez voir les lémuriens , la plus belle des réserves , Berenty , est chère .
Attention aux arnaques et agressions : TOUTES les grandes villes sont dangereuses quand la nuit arrive !
Je confirme, les baleines c'est Juillet, Septembre.
Pour vous aider, nous sommes aussi partis 3 semaines en sac à dos en Juillet 2014.
Arrivée Tananarive. Départ pour Antsirabe, puis Ambositra. Ensuite Fianaratsoa. Train pour Manakara ( il marchait et même bien, chance). Ensuite Farafangane. Retour Manakara car piste Farafangane Ilhosy impraticable. Retour Fianaratsoa. Départ pour Tuléar. Départ pour Mangily. Retour Tuléar .... Avion pour Tana.
Bonjour
Etant donné vos souhaits : malgaches, animaux, paysages, snorkeling... il faut être à Madagascar (car les malgaches y sont et ils sont accessibles et ouverts quelles que soient les régions), avec des parcs (pour les animaux), un peu de montagne (pour les villages qui s'y trouvent), de la route (pour les paysages) et de l'océan adapté (pour le snorkeling).
Ainsi pour ma part, j'aurai dit que surtout 3 trajets/boucles seraient appropriés :
1- la classique RN7 du haut en bas - diversité de paysages et de sites, des étages de rizières des hauts plateaux au bush du sud - plusieurs parcs parmi lesquels et dans l'ordre de préférence personnelle (parc Andringitra, parc de l'Isalo, parc de l'Anja et celui de Ranomafana), de la "montagne" (et tres belle) dans l'Andringitra. Le petit hic c est pour le snorkeling, vers Tuléar c est pas génial génial. Fonds blanchis très abimés.
Possible de mettre un peu de rock and roll dans le classique en faisant une remontée par le canal des pangalanes avec un Fianar-Mananjary puis bateau brousse jusque l est central avant un retour vers Tana. Ou qq escapades le long de la cote sud ouest en partant vers le nord de Tuléar (Andavadoaka, Morombe, Salary...).
Sur ce parcours, dommage de ne pas emprunter le train (qui n est pas un "petit" train style les petits trains touristiques mais bien le principal poumon de la zone en permettant les transports de marchandises et de personne entre cote est et plateaux - bref ce n est pas un train touristique mais juste un train normal que certains touristes prennent).
2- Le Nord de Nosy Be à Diego. A priori vous avez éliminé la zone pour une raison que j'ignore étant donné que c'est, pour moi, la zone qui correspondrait quasi le mieux à vos attentes.
Là aussi une diversité de paysages (moins que sur la RN7 toutefois), de belles iles ou on peut loger dans des villages pour pas cher (particulièrement vers Nosy Komba), plusieurs parcs sur une surface assez ramassée (en particulier Lokobe, Ankarana), parmi les plus endroits pour le snorkeling (vers Nosy Be et vers Diego - dans la baie, le long des baies ou à la mer d'émeraude), une belle flore et de belles plantations de cacao, vanille... spécifiquement à Ambanja. Manquerait que les villages de montagne même si une montée de la montagne des français est possible mais pas de village (une vieille base militaire abandonnée) et pas vraiment de montagne non plus.
3- La zone de l'Est de Mada dont le parc Marojejy (d'Ambilobe à Fénerive) soit vers le Nord (Ambilobe-Antalaha), soit vers le Sud (Fénérive à Maroantsetra). Soit en allant entre les 2 points en sachant que cela prend du temps, bcp de temps et nécessite pas mal de débrouille. C est un long périple, fatiguant car de longs trajets sur des routes/pistes défoncées; Là aussi des sites pour le snorkeling. Il y a plusieurs messages pour décrire tout ou partie de ce périple, que je ne connais que très mal. Beaux paysages, c est sur, snorkeling aussi, montagne oui aussi (à la mesure de la montagne malgache évidemment), flore et faune avec des parcs...
Nosy Be , cest une impasse de principes multiples et ca permet de se rendre dans des endroits un peu moins visités! mais Nosy Komba était dans notre viseur donc tu nous confortes dans notre pensée.
Diego Suarez nous inquiete un peu au niveau sécurité pour etre franc.
En revanche le nord est et le coté isolé et nature est un véritable attrait , à documenter et à confirmer ....
pour le snorkeling je pensais pas manquer d opportunités sur mada mais finalement , cela s avere plus compliqué !
Pour préciser généralement quand les gens en parlent : Nosy Be / Nosy Komba, c est quasi la même chose et généralement quand on entend Nosy Be, on entend toute la zone y inclus les différentes iles et la cote attenante. De Nosy Komba, on arrive à Nosy Be en qq minutes de bateau... Je suppose que ce qui vous éloigne de Nosy be c est essentiellement le fait que c est un des coins les plus touristiques de Mada (cela doit signifier 100000 touristes par an, soit vraiment pas grand chose), le lynchage des 2 gars sur place et une image sulfureuse avec le tourisme sexuel. Juste un peu dur de mettre tout Nosy Be dans le panier quand le tourisme de (mini-)masse(tte) et ses dérives est limitée quasi à une plage de l'ile. Mais bref pour en finir avec cela, Nosy Komba tres bien, un bon club de plongée aussi qui peut vous permettre d aller sur tous les spots majeurs de la zone.
Diego et l' insécurité : elle touche les résidents sur place, généralement âgés, et qui attirent une certaine envie/jalousie de la population (ils sont aisés (pour Mada), ils prennent nos jeunes femmes...) et se font parfois des ennemis (comme on peut s en faire en étant résidents) : de la belle famille, du personnel de maison... Ce qui malheureusement leur vaut parfois des agressions violentes jusuq'à la mort. En étant de passage pour qq jours, on ne risque pas grand chose de ce point de vue. A coté de cela, pas plus d'insécurité que dans d autres villes de Mada.
Pour tout dire, souvent on se préoccupe bcp de cette sécurité criminelle tout en prenant quasi sans crainte les taxi brousse et les bateaux à Mada, alors que le risque pris y est très très supérieur. Pas tjrs très logique...
Maintenant je ne cherche pas à vous convaincre à tout prix, je n'ai pas d intérêt à Mada (et ne souhaite pas en avoir...) mais simplement pour relativiser et porter l'attention sur des points d'attention parfois minimisés au profit de craintes parfois surestimées (mes plus grosses trouilles à Mada : le taxi brousse et la pirogue - prudent sans parano pour le reste et la vie en général).
Je ne dirai pas qu'il manque d'opportunités de snorkeler à Mada, c est simplement que ce n est pas non plus possible partout.
Enfin pour les périples cote est, probablement parmi les sites les plus aventureux, et donc les plus gratifiants pour un voyage. Bon choix quoiqu'il en soit.
Coups de cœur :
Sur la zone Nosy Be/Diego j en ai plusieurs, sur Ambilobe et plus au sud, je laisse cela aux plus connaisseurs.
Nosy Komba : Ampangorina - petit village tranquille ou nous étions dans une case sur la plage, repas avec le poisson acheté auprès des pêcheurs de retour de mer. Club de plongée sur place. 3 jours sympa et vraiment tranquilles.
Ambanja : les plantations de cacao et la ville en elle meme, le pont sur la Sambirano, le marché... Tranquille aussi. 1 semaine entre Ambanja, alentours et Ankify.
Diego : logement à la villa Diego chez Alain, on était venu pour 3 jours, on est resté une semaine. La montagne des français et la vue splendide sur la baie dans son entier. Le snorkeling dans la baie avec un pêcheur (contact perdu...). La journée mer d'émeraude et spécialement le snorkeling. Les 3 baies.
Je suis quelqu'un de plutôt Baloo "il m'en faut peu pour être heureux". Pas trop adepte du "Waouh" à tous crins. Donc peut etre des enthousiasmes qui ne toucheront pas tout le monde...
A signaler en plus que les 3 baies sont un gros spot de kyte surf pour ceux qui aiment.
On oublie souvent d 'intégrer un paramétre important en rapport de la période du séjour...le climat.
En Juiin c'est déjà l'hiver austral à Mada :
Sur Diego un vent..le varatraz.. à décorner les zébus...attention aux traversées...
Côte Est : beaucoup de pluie...par exemple on a fait Marojejy en Mai et impossible de monter tout en haut...trop bouché
Les hauts plateaux...tres agréable mais attention dans l'Andringrita la nuit : il peut faire 0° et on a pas forcément enmené sa polaire et son duvet de montagne...
Le Sud est plus clément...moins chaud..donc de l'isalo à Tuléar...ifaty...Salary vers Morombe et de l'autre côté anakao il y a de quoi faire...s'ils n'ont pas finis de tuer le lagon avec une nouvelle usine d'extraction de sables....bon moi je met pas trop le nez dans l'eau...
😉 Pour ma part, le bon rythme c est de prendre son temps et de savourer. Mais chacun sa route, chacun son chemin...
Mais vous ne seriez pas déçus, bcp de choses à faire sur la zone Nosy Be / Diego autour de la mer (snorkeling, plongées dont les requins baleine - je n'ai pas fait et je ne connais pas les périodes) mais aussi dans l'intérieur du pays (les plantations à Ambanja, les parcs Ankarana, montagne d'Ambre, Lokobe...les baies, montagne des français mais aussi pourquoi pas le cap d Ambre...).
Mais tte la partie au sud d Ambilobe au nord de Fénérive a l'air aussi de valoir fameusement le coup. Il faut faire des choix...
C est une région que je trouve pour ma part magnifique et ou j ai plaisir à passer du temps; On y était en famille pendant environ 3 semaines en 2014 et ca a été vraiment un bon moment. Je n'y étais pas retournée depuis tres longtemps (je connais surtout les hauts plateaux vers Fianar).
Bonjour
A 160 000 Ar (par personne je suppose), je trouve que c est un prix très correct pour une telle distance et dans ces conditions plus favorables qu'un taxi brousse. Assurez vous qu'il y a 2 chauffeurs et pas 1 seul (même si au dernier moment on peut tjrs avoir des surprises).
14h me parait très rapide bien que certainement faisable. On a fait pour notre part 3h du matin / 19h30 dans le sens Ankify/Tana (donc avec 1- des bouchons à l'arrivée sur Tana, 2- conduite lente à 3h du mat car chauffeur dans le coaltar et 3-fatigue du seul conducteur (cf. ci dessus) donc une bonne pause repas à Maevatanana). De plus la route fait de méchants lacets et est assez sinueuse en arrivant vers Tana, des que la nuit tombe, ce n est pas l'idéal. En arrivant vers Ambanja/Ankify pas ce pb en raison des trous assez nombreux (en ts les cas il y a 1 an et demi).
Tout cela pour dire que vous serez dans le sens plus favorable (De Tana à Ankify). Partir très tôt pour éviter les bouchons du matin en sortant de Tana (deja vers 5h, la ville commence a etre active - assez impressionnant mais pas encore de bouchons à cette heure) en essayant de ne pas arriver trop tard si possible car les plus beaux paysages sont de Maromandia (et son exceptionnelle mangrove) jusqu'Ankify.
Pas de possibilité de viser un vol sur Nosy Be A/R directement depuis la France si c est cette zone que vous visez exclusivement ?
Cela évite le long trip depuis Tana.
Ceci est une série de réflexions personnelles sur notre voyage à Madagascar, établie sur la base d’une expérience touristique de 6 semaines fin 2010. C’est un…
Grand voyageur devant l'éternel et adepte de voyage forum, j'aimerais pour mes 50 ans changer mes habitudes... j'ai bourlingué et trimbalé pas mal de temps ma…
Allez hop, un petit retour de voyage apres 3 semaines à Mada. C etait 3 semaines prévues pour etre tranquille et elles l'ont été. Pas de grand tour, de longues…
Voyager avec des enfants › Madagascar · 13 replies
Voilà, ca y'est! On a nos billets pour madagascar 4 semaines en avril 2012! Nous sommes tout excités à l'idée de faire ce beau voyage en famille. Et quand je…
Hi,
I traveled to Madagascar from May 16 to June 3 with a group (10 people), accompanied by our guide/driver Adrien and his two sons (or "Adrien and Co," already mentioned in previous posts on this forum).
We were absolutely satisfied with the services provided. While other guides we contacted only offered ready-made itineraries with no flexibility, Adrien crafted a highly varied program for us, blending hikes, landscapes, crafts, and interactions with locals. It was an intense but well-optimized schedule that met all our wishes.
The accommodations—sometimes very rustic, sometimes very comfortable—were all very clean. We were on a half-board plan, and our lunches were at small, typical restaurants recommended by Adrien.
Adrien and his sons were super friendly, helpful, and always in a good mood (even when both vehicles got flat tires 10 minutes apart, for example!).
We had plenty of breaks every day, and every special request was accommodated!
We got a great rate: 1300 € per person. On top of that, we added tips for the drivers, pirogue guides, and cooks, as well as our lunches and any personal expenses.
We were lucky with the lemurs—we saw a lot of them!
At no point did we feel unsafe.
Day-by-day details on my Polarstep: https://www.polarsteps.com/moietlechatTraveller/25173082-madagascar-2027
Trip details:
Day 1: Flight from Réunion to Madagascar – night at IVATO HOTEL
Day 2: Antsirabe - Miandrivazo
220 km, about 7 hours
Day 3: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, village encounters, swim in the waterfall, bivouac. Lunch in the pirogue.
Day 4: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, visit to a village and school, bivouac; lunch in the pirogue.
Day 5: Tsarahotana - Bekopaka
End of the river descent. At 9 AM, 4x4, 45 km, 3 hours, ferry across the Tsiribihina.
Day 6: Visits to Parc Grand Tsingy de Benahara (sporty level) and Petit Tsingy (for all walkers)
Day 7: Bekopaka - Belo/Tsiribihina. Nighttime visit to Kirindy Reserve
135 km, 6 hours
Day 8: Kirindy Reserve, daytime visit in the morning – drive to Morondava
100 km, 5 hours on a sandy track; "Baobabs Amoureux" and sunset at the "Avenue of the Baobabs"
Day 9: Morondava - Belo sur Mer by motorized pirogue, 3 hours
Day 10: Belo sur Mer, visit to a fishing village, pirogue ride through the mangroves, meal on the beach
Day 11: Belo sur Mer - Morondava - Miandrivazo
3 hours by motorized pirogue, then 280 km, 7 hours by minibus
Day 12: Miandrivazo - Antsirabe – Ambositra; crafts
310 km, 9 hours by minibus
Day 13: Ambositra - Antoetra, 45 km, 3 hours / Arrival in the Zafimaniry region via a difficult track.
Start of hike to Sakaevo; 9 km; overnight with a local family.
Day 14: Loop hike: Sakaevo, Faliarivo, Ambohimiadana, Sakaevo, picnic at a waterfall, several possible routes. 2nd night with a local family.
Day 15: Return hike, then track from Sakaevo to Antoetra.
Day 16: Drive from Antsirabe to the outskirts of Antananarivo (about 4 hours) – nighttime visit to Andasibe National Park (mouse lemurs and more)
Day 17: Daytime visit to Andasibe National Park, observation hike, many lemur species including the indri indri
Day 18: Visit to the old town, return to the airport.
Don’t hesitate to give him a call.
hi, I didn’t find anything recent on this topic in the posts.
I’m looking for accommodation in Diego and possibly a short stay in Ramena.
something not too expensive: no need for AC, just a functional bathroom and a clean room.
I prioritize a warm welcome, good vibes, and great tips! :-)
thanks
Has anyone been to this base camp in the Diego area towards the west coast (Mozambique Channel)? The trip starts from Diego Suarez by 4x4 and boat,
with a visit to Nosy Hara and a few nearby islands.
Possible big-game fishing and diving.
Thanks in advance if anyone has info!
Hi everyone, I’m heading to Île aux Nattes in a few weeks and I’d like to know if euros are accepted in the island’s restaurants.
At the hotel where I’ll be staying, they take card payments, but for activities, I can’t find any reliable info.
Could anyone tell me the approximate cost in euros and/or ariary for a week (food outside the hotel) on the island for two people?
Also, has anyone ever exchanged money at the Paris Magenta exchange bureau?
Thanks!
Hello,
After asking questions on the site, here’s a little feedback on our trip in March and April.
Marseille/Antananarivo flight with Ethiopian Airlines was great both ways. I’d recommend it.
Domestic flights with Madagascar Airlines were just as smooth.
We had to change our plans because I was the victim of a snatch-theft attempt at Ivato... patellar fracture... so I ended up with a brace and more rest than hikes.
This let us spend more time in the same areas and make some connections.
We loved Tulear. Stayed with Alain—excellent value for money.
Mangily, where we stayed for 15 days. Hotel Bella Dona due to my little handicap. The pool replaced sea swims.
Mangily gets a bad rap for being very touristy. True, you get approached a lot on the beach—you have to play along and buy some trinkets, but after that, you get royal peace and lots of exchanges with locals. The village and its lively street are nice too. Don’t hesitate to eat with fishermen or at local bars.
Anakao, a big favorite. Just the journey there is worth it. Watching dozens of pirogues set off between 5 and 6 AM is a magical moment.
Stayed at Peter Pan’s place. Lots of chats with Dario since we were the only guests.
Planned a 4-day Antananarivo–Soniara–Ivango road trip with a driver.
Cut to 2 days because the boat to Sainte Marie was moved up due to weather. I don’t remember the company’s name, but it wasn’t great for safety—plus, we brought back fleas.
Visited Andasibe Park along the way. Quick tip: go in the morning.
A little over 2 weeks on Sainte Marie at Hôtel Mantis Soanambo—total luxury negotiated at a price that defied all competition because it was low season.
Meals were at little local eateries nearby.
We chose not to sleep on Île aux Nattes but went there several times during the day (crossing: 4000 ariary for 2).
You have to take a pirogue tour—it’s like stepping into a postcard.
Sainte Marie is a special place. A tropical island that feels like the Caribbean ones we’ve lived on. No security issues at all. We rented a scooter because we found tuk-tuk prices a bit steep. You can leave the scooter with helmet and keys and come back 4 hours later.
More amazing encounters here too.
Last part of our trip in Ampefy, a beautiful volcanic region with a very welcoming population.
Stayed with a friend of our driver.
Hotels in Ivato are plentiful and vary a lot in quality.
Les 12 Collines is a bit out of the way but only 21 € per night.
La Chato... very expensive for what you get.
I tried to keep it short.
Madagascar is a wonderful island with so many facets. Always so many emotions when I think back on this trip.
The extreme poverty... don’t hesitate to buy food for the kids on the beach, for example. It doesn’t cost much, but it means a lot to them.
The kindness of the people and, above all, those SMILES.
We’re hooked—we’re going back in November for 6 months... because yes, you can buy a 3-month visa at the airport (a question I’d asked), and you can extend it for another 3 months... if you apply in time at a police station.
We didn’t take Malarone either. We’d brought some, but there were few mosquitoes, and "Insect Écran" worked really well.
Hi everyone, we’re planning a trip to Réunion for 6 nights and Mauritius for 7 nights in March 2027. I’m starting to look into it now. We’re not hikers, so I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Should we book flights and small hotels separately, or go for a flight-and-stay package? We don’t want to blow our budget (around 2800 € per person). Thanks!
Gigi
Hello,
We’ll be on vacation in the Seychelles in July and will visit La Digue, Praslin, and then Mahé in that order. Our 21-year-old daughter will have to leave earlier than us while we’re still on Praslin.
We’re hesitating between the following options for her return:
Option 1:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 2:00 PM – arrives in Mahé at 3:15 PM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- The connection is very tight, leaving a 1- to 2-hour safety margin in case the ferry is delayed.
Option 2:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 8:00 AM – arrives in Mahé at 9:15 AM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- This is safer than Option 1, but it means she’d lose the whole day, spending it alone. We’d pay for a day pass giving her access to a hotel pool to kill time.
From experience, what do you think? Are significant ferry delays (2 hours or more) common, especially in July with the swell, making Option 1 too risky?
Or is even Option 2 too risky, and should our daughter take a ferry the day before (though that would mean missing a lot of time with us)?
Or should she take an Air Seychelles flight the same day instead of the ferry? Is that safer than the ferry? But it’s much more expensive…
I know no one can give me certainty on this, but I’d just love to hear your gut feeling from those who have experience with inter-island transfers in the Seychelles.
Thanks so much in advance!
Christophe
Hello,
Our trip is taking shape.
We’re leaving on February 28th. We’ll start by flying to Tulear, then make our way up to Tana at a relaxed pace before catching another flight to Diego Suarez.
We’d love to end our stay on Sainte Marie Island.
Is there a way to make the trip by land? By sea?
Just to clarify, we’re not pressed for time.
Thanks!
Hello everyone,
Thanks for this amazing forum—I’ve spent hours browsing through it.
I’m reaching out to ask for your help as we’re looking for a destination for our honeymoon.
We never travel outside Europe, so we’re total newbies, but we want to treat ourselves for this special occasion.
Dates: June 23 → July 8 (possibly until July 12)
Duration: 2 to 3 weeks
Budget: Not really an issue for this trip
Our plan:
- A seaside destination first and foremost, with beautiful beaches
- We’d like to do some hiking or at least go on walks with scenic viewpoints
- A relaxing trip with sunshine, lush greenery, and stunning landscapes
- A safe destination
Our thoughts so far:
- New Zealand: our dream, but it seems like the wrong time of year weather-wise ++
- Azores: ruled out due to unpredictable weather—what do you think?
- Mauritius/Reunion combo: vetoed by my future wife ^^
- Seychelles: seems like it could work, but I’ve read about a few downsides (no shops to buy food, snorkeling not always amazing, occasional weather/tide issues making swimming tricky)
Other options:
- French Polynesia: we’re really dreaming of it, but is 2 weeks too short for such a long trip?
- Hawaii: same question—too far?
- Sardinia?
Thanks so much for your help, and have a great weekend!
Every year, we love escaping the autumn season—I really can’t stand it—by heading somewhere sunny during the All Saints' holiday.
This year, we were thinking of Mauritius... We’d found a place to stay, but after digging deeper, I realized it’s 40% cheaper in July. And the flights with Emirates aren’t more expensive in the summer, even though it’s peak season for them, compared to October.
Yet, after checking a bunch of sites, I don’t get the impression the weather is bad there in July—maybe just a *tiny* bit less hot than in October, but nothing major...
So we’re tempted to go this summer after all.
This big price jump for All Saints' compared to summer is a mystery to me... Did I miss something?
If you’ve got any firsthand experience traveling to Mauritius in July or early August, I’d love to hear about it.
Hi! Recently, the domestic-flight terminal at Ivato has been moved to the old "international" airport, complete with its own scanner. On October 13th, I checked my luggage (which I had inspected before leaving my hotel in Tana) for a flight to Sambava. It wasn’t until I arrived at my accommodation in Antalaha and opened it that I discovered it had been searched (normal before boarding a plane), but to my surprise, the case containing my GPS fishfinder had been opened—likely mistaken for a laptop due to the scanner’s open access to all kinds of theft—and three SD cards were stolen. Luckily, two of the SD cards had their micro SDs inserted into the device, so I still had the Navionics micro card (300 €) essential for fishing. Of course, I’m not asking for compensation, just urging caution with checked luggage on "domestic" flights. (This is a copy-paste of my post on *Le Routard*.)
Hello,
I’m continuing the Antalaha–Maroantsetra discussion but for some info in the other direction, specifically about hiking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha.
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
Well, I still feel a bit lonely about this destination—no requests for info, no travel journals, or trip reports since I last posted over a year ago. A little disheartening.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this?
Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason.
Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market.
The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers...
The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there).
The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra.
I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it.
So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast.
Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it?
What do you think?
Hello, we’re heading to Mauritius for two weeks at the end of October. We’ll be staying in Trou aux Biches. We’d like to explore the island by bus if possible, so if you have any tips, we’d love to hear them. We’re on half-board, so we’ll also be checking out some nice, typical little restaurants and snack spots. Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi, is it possible to find out? How can I stay for 3 consecutive months in Madagascar, based on a fixed-date flight ticket? In short, how do I get a visa stamped at the airport??
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Hi there,
We’ve booked accommodation at Digwa Beach Chalet on La Digue. We’ll be arriving and leaving by ferry.
We’re only a 20-minute walk from our rental.
I was wondering if anyone has stayed at this place before and knows if they pick you up from the ferry? Is it free? How much does it cost?
My husband has reduced mobility and with the luggage, it’s not going to be easy. I’ve sent a message to the accommodation but haven’t heard back yet... Thanks so much for your help!
hi, does anyone have any recent info on the condition of this RN6 route? roadworks? maintenance?
and of course, about the two river crossings at Gué between Ambanja and Ambilobe on the Ifatsy and Mahavavy rivers (at the entrance to Ambilobe)
condition of the ferries, possible start of work on the bridges (with the addition of Bailey bridges)
any info after the rainy season, meaning after April 2025
thanks
Can you tell me how long (on average...) the Tana to Tamatave trip takes with local minibus transport?
Which reliable company do you recommend for booking?
Hi there,
We’re thinking of doing the train journey from Fianarantsoa to Manakara again. Is the train still running? After that, we’re planning to go from Manakara to Fort Dauphin by 4x4. Thanks for any tips you can share!
Hello,
After over 40 years of traveling, I’ve never used a driver-guide before.
Given my age, this time I’d like to avoid being squeezed into a bush taxi. I’ve never rented a 4x4 but usually go for sedans.
So, for my upcoming trip to Madagascar, I decided to hire a 4x4 with a driver. I contacted about ten agencies and guides listed in the GR, LP, and travel forums. The quotes I got for 20 days range from 6000 € to 1300 €, with or without fuel included. Most ask for either a full bank transfer upfront or a mobile wallet payment (30%, etc.) from France.
Personally, I’d prefer to see the vehicle and the driver before making any payment.
Also, I’d rather pay at the end of my trip.
Is it possible to find a provider in Tana upon arrival for around 50 or 60 € per day, including fuel, with short notice, some flexibility in my itinerary, and without being forced to accept the dictates of agencies or drivers recommended on certain forums?
Thanks for your replies.
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days)
Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights)
Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach.
Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot.
Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina).
Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights)
Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse.
Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights)
Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise.
Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach.
Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days)
Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights)
Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy.
Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire.
Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie.
Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling.
Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights)
Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach.
Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon.
Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery.
Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls).
Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights)
Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach.
Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs.
Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights)
Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park.
Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes.
Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village.
Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
Hey there,
I’m moving to Réunion Island in September and I’d love to hear about your experiences there. What’s there to do and what should I avoid?
Do you have any great tips for budget-friendly accommodation or places to stay?
Any advice on how to save money while I’m there?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
My friend and I are heading to Madagascar in March, and we were wondering if it’s possible to bring some cash and top up once we’re there (specifically in Tana).
Is it worth exchanging money if euros are accepted everywhere?
Thanks for your always super helpful tips on VF!
Hi there,
How do you get from Tamatave or Foulpointe to Sainte Marie Island? We’re heading to Madagascar from July 16 to 29, 2025.
How many days should we stay to explore the area?
What’s there to do in Tamatave, Foulpointe, or Sainte Marie Island?
What should we visit?
Thanks everyone!
Hi,
I’m taking the Cotisse bus soon to go to Antsohihy, so the route is Tana-Majunga with a stop at Antanambaza.
How long does it take to get to Antanambaza? Should I leave at 6:30 PM or 7:00 AM?
Considering I’ll probably need to find a hotel while waiting for a *taxi be* to Antsohihy, I’d rather not arrive in the middle of the night.
And since I’m asking—does anyone have a hotel recommendation in Antanambaza?
Also, can you find a seat on a *taxi be* mid-route?