Bonsoir! Voilà; mon copain et moi sommes partis l'an dernier au Chili et en Bolivie avec une association. Le pays était fantastique mais le fait de devoir suivre un groupe nous a énormément frustrés. Alors cette année nous décidons de nous lancer seuls. On a pris conscience qu'il fallait un minimum de préparation pour voyager sereinement ms à vrai dire on ne sait vraiment pas par où commencer... Help aux baroudeurs!! Merciii!
Bonjour
Pas de problème! faut juste quelques renseignements complémentaire!
les dates, ce que vous aimez, la montagne, la mer la campagne.
Regarder les sites de voyage.
avec les amis (es) du site ont va vous donnez des idées et conseils.
a plus 😏
bonjour nous sommes indépendants pour voyager et n'aimons pas trop les groupes et le speed ( avec une agence on voit beaucoup de choses mais superficiellement et en vitesse avec peu de contacts avec la population)
Cependant à mada les routes ne sont pas terribles ( exepté le RN 7) et la population parle 18 dialectes et pas souvent le français ( dans les villages)
On a fait donc un compromis : circuit établi par nous mème en fonction de nos gouts et de plusieurs guides ( gallimard petit futé) et on a pris un chauffeur guide trouvé sur le bouquin petit futé et un peu connu sur les forums
On a fait un voyage extraordinaire en cotoyant la population locale, en toute sécurité et riches en connaissances ( économie, politique, flore, traditions, architecture, anecdote) et touit ça avec beaucoup d'humour et de bonne humeur
C'est une petite agence de Fiana que vous pouvez contacter sans problème
Je suis parti l'an dernier à mad, tout seul, je n'ai rencontré aucun problème
j'avais réservé un A/R en avion, j'ai préféré les transports en bus, bien plus sympa, plus longs mais bien moins onéreux
seul hic, apprendre à négocier les frais de taxi à tana, ils nous prennent un peu pour des américains
se munir du guide du routard, le lonely planet ou du petit futé
ne changer pas plus de 100 euros à la fois, ça fait de belles liasses de billets en ariary
a mada, il y a de tout comme paysages, alors ne pas se priver
Bonjour
Excellent choix que Mada pour un premier voyage en independant.
Sur la sécurité, il y a plusieurs discussions en ce moment à ce propos sur le forum, vous pouvez aller voir. Mada de mon point de vue est un pays sur et hormis des exceptions et Tana, pas de coin réellement dangereux. Rien à voir avec les capitales d Amerique du Sud par exemple.
Si il faut se préparer un peu c est vrai, il vaut mieux aussi se préparer à l'inattendu car pas possible de tt prévoir à Mada, il y aura forcément des impondérables sauf si vous choisissez de louer un vehicule avec guide (et encore...).
L'utilisation des mini bus ne pose pas de probleme hormis que cela peut etre legeos stressant (conducteurs barrés parfois car pressés par leur patron, style Tana Tulear A/R sans pause d ou endormissements et sortie de route) et que cela peut etre assez long voire tres long sur certains trajets hors lignes ppales au départ de Tana (exples vécus : Morondava-Antsirabe en 34 h, Fianarantsoa-Morondava en 30 h). Pour plus de place si vous etes 2 vous pouvez acheter une place en plus pour avoir la banquette et un peu plus de confort sinon sur les gdes lignes c est 3 par banquette et grosso modo ca va tt de meme.
Maintenant l objectif c est de vous fixer les coins ou vous voulez aller en en choisissant peu (1 coin pour 1 semaine à 15 jours, sauf si descente RN7 bcp de pttes etapes en general) si vous voyagez en taxi brousse. En fonction de vos gouts, il y a possibilité d adapter : mer, montagne, bush desertique, foret, nature... Bon y a juste un truc que vous retrouverez quoiqu il arrive, c est qu humainement partout ce sera une decouverte sympa, des rencontres...
Apres ca depend aussi de vos periodes de voyage.
Pour l argent, possibilites de voyager avec carte de crédit, traveller cheque, cash (le moins possible comme partt). Sur place, possibilité d acheter une puce afin d etre joignable ou de gerer un peu son voyage a Mada meme.
Pour le reste, il y a un peu ttes les categories de prix et de confort un peu partt dans Mada en sachant que globalement ce n est pas cher : hotel, resto.
Pas de grosse inquietude coté santé si ce n est la cysticercose (eviter le cresson surtt, pas difficile c est tt de meme pas ts les jours qu on en mange), la bilharziose (pas de baignade en eau stagnante, pas difficile non plus, qui a envie de piquer une tete dans une mare boueuse) et evidemment last but not least le palu. Lèpre, peste et cholera voire grippe ne sont pas vraiment risqués pour vous, car ce sont vraiment des maladies de la pauvreté et des mauvaises conditions générales, dans lesquels vous ne vivrez pas. Pour la palu, la encore des tas de discussions la dessus : traitement préventif ou pas a vous de voir et de piocher les infos sur le forum. Si vous restez sur les hauts plateaux, pas de risque. Sur les cotes plasmodium assez virulent donc nécessité soit de bien se protéger : moustiquaires, répulsifs... soit de se traiter mais pas de protection 100% de ttes facons.
Sur place des tas de docteurs tres bien formés meme en brousse, donc tjrs possibilité de se faire ausculter si besoin.
Cote bebetes, pas de serpent, grosses araignées inoffensives, bref quasi quasi rien sauf les crocos et peut etre les requins (mais pas de chiffres sur les eventuels deces). En brousse gaffe aux puces si vous dormez chez l habitant.
Cote vie en general, ne pas rater un marché rural, c est vraiment la qu est la vie a Mada. Sinon les malgaches ne sont pas violents ou agressifs de caractere meme si ca peut tjrs arriver. Quand on se sent harcelé dans un marché, une rue, il suffit en général de décliner avec un sourire et on est tranquilles.
Généralement les gens sont contents de parler, discuter (il n est qu a voir comment dans un taxi brousse ts les occupants discutent sans se connaitre, rien a voir avec le TGV), mais si vous ne le souhaitez pas et restez a l ecart de la meme facon les gens ne vous embeteront pas d eux memes. Bien entendu il ne faut pas generaliser mais c est simplement pour signaler que le tempérament surtt des hauts plateaux est plutot réservé mais que si on essaie de nouer le contact, c est tres facile. Différent de l Afrique de l Ouest ou les gens viennent plus facilement vers vous.
Voila des tas de choses en vrac, c est un peu décousu et pas forcément d une grande aide. C est aussi un peu des généralités et des banalités, mais c est tt de meme ce que je retiens de Mada.
Sympa de donner un coup de main aux p'tits jeunes! Alors on partirait bien en août, on a envie de grands espaces, de faune, de flore, de tsingys, de plages paradisiaques où on pourra plonger, de rencontres... On a vu que le nord de l'île correspondait bien à tout ça; on se trompe?
Merci pour les tuyaux et l'avant-goût que nous a donné ton site!
Ah oui, j'oubliais! On est aussi très attirés par la montagne mais il sera peut-être difficile de concilier tout celà en 3semaines-un mois... Selon le budget
Merci mille fois, c'est super sympa d'aiguiller les débutants! On prend bonne note de ces conseils qui ne nous rassurent pas forcément certes mais qui nous permettent de nous situer petit à petit! Pour info on pense partir en août et on est avides de grands espaces, mers turquoises où plonger, de montagnes, de rencontres, de faune, de flore... Le nord semble regrouper tout celà; on se trompe?...
Pour le nord je ne peux pas donner d'infos mais eulement sur la partie tana tuléar, ifaty, anakao, st augustin ainsi que la RN 2 de tana à manambatto en passant par les parcs de andasibe ; nous sommes allés aussi à akanin ny nofy depuis manambatto
donc si tes demandes correspondent à ce trajet, avec plaisir et à charge de revenche pour le nord car nous y allons en nov 2007 ( peut etre)
Bonjour
Oui le Nord pourrait correspondre a vos souhaits avec une combinaison Diego/Nosy Be (tres facile d aller de l un a l autre : bateau + taxi brousse).
A Diego et région : les ballades dans les baies, la mer d emeraude, l ex base militaire (peinte per des artistes), je n aime pas Ramena mais c est svt un lieu de passage aussi. Diego en elle meme est sympa pour qq temps, sorties le soir, restos, ballades en ville.
Ne pas oublier de faire du snorkeling (trouver un pecheur, je me rappelle plus son nom mais il y en a un dans le chemin qui descend dans les palmiers deriiere l hopital) dans la baie, il y a des sites magnifiques autour des pttes iles : tortues, ptts et gros poissons. Ils sont moins connus mais ils valent autant le coup que pas mal de plongées de Nosy Be.
Il y a les tsingys dans l arriere pays et la montagne des francais pour les ballades.
Entre Nosy Be et Diego, jolis paysages, plantations de cacao, quasi les seules de Mada...
Ensuite Nosy Be : Nosy Be meme, plein de visistes culturelles possibles (rhumerie, ylang ylang, lacs...), l interieur de l ile assez délaissé vaut le coup, Hell Ville est pas mal pour son marché et puis qq tours dans ses rues ensuite ballades sur les iles : Nosy Tanykely, Nosy Komba (bof), Nosy Iranja (extra : cordon de sable blanc entre 2 ilots, les Mitsio...). Un francais de Hell Ville a une ptte ile privée, il y organise des journées : repas, snorkeling, ballade en foret et loisirs (cerf volant, ski nautique...), c est sympa, a l epoque un peu cher (pour Mada) mais une journée originale sur une petite ile entre Nosy Komba et Nosy Be, de beaux fonds coralliens autour de l ile, dauphins et tortues pour accompagner le ski nautique.
Nosy Be : paradis de plongée, possibilités de voir du tres gros : mammiferes marins, requins baleine, raies manta, dauphins...
Une autre possibilité qui pourrait vous correspondre pour la beauté des paysages, la nature et la mer c est Fort Dauphin mais la plongée n y est pas possible, il faut rejoindre Tulear pour cela. Donc soit extreme Nord soit extreme Sud.
L Est c est aussi mer et montagne mais en aout le temps est plus pluvieux mais sur les cotes il pleut tt de meme assez souvent tte l année alors... C est sympa aussi : Ste Marie, Tamatave et sa région (Fénérive, maroentsetra...), a confirmer si les baleines sont la en aout pour fermer le ban. 3 choix possibles, a affiner avec l avis de ts les forumeurs.
Je vois que tu as déjà beaucoup de pistes intéressantes et très détaillées (Rotsaka) pour réussir ce voyage. Si ton choix se porte vers l'est ou vers le sud je pourrais te donner des conseils aussi car ce sont les parties de Madagascar que je connais le mieux.
Ce n'est pas non plus OBLIGATOIRE d'organiser et de préparer un tel voyage à partir de la France, parfois sortir de l'avion avec l'envie de découvrir une région au gré des rencontres et des envies du moment, d'improviser, de découvrir à votre rythme sont largement suffisantes pour faire un fabuleux voyage.
Project a vivid image of what you seek into the landscape of your life. What greets you on your way will be the images of your own creation
Bonjour,
J'envisage de venir visiter MADA (seul) 4 semaines de fin Janv à Fin Fev 2007.
Je sais que l'île est grande aussi j'aimerais savoir quelles parties de l'île sont recommandées à cette période de l'année....sachant qu'il me faudra revenir pour visiter d'autres régions à d'autres périodes
NB: Je ne cherche pas à speeder mais souhaite prendre mon temps.J'envisage une location de 4x4 avec guide pour 2 semaines et les 2 autres semaines seuls.
Que me conseilleriez vous?
Merci
Parmonsevo
Voila je vais pouvoir enfin aller dans un des pays ou je reve d'aller depuis longtemps et j'ai besoin de plein de conseils, voyage seule, ou avec ma fille…
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Je compte partir pour la première fois seule pour 3 semaines à Madagascar mi janvier 2015. Et donc je ne sais pas bien comment m'y prendre, par quoi commencer,…
Hi,
I traveled to Madagascar from May 16 to June 3 with a group (10 people), accompanied by our guide/driver Adrien and his two sons (or "Adrien and Co," already mentioned in previous posts on this forum).
We were absolutely satisfied with the services provided. While other guides we contacted only offered ready-made itineraries with no flexibility, Adrien crafted a highly varied program for us, blending hikes, landscapes, crafts, and interactions with locals. It was an intense but well-optimized schedule that met all our wishes.
The accommodations—sometimes very rustic, sometimes very comfortable—were all very clean. We were on a half-board plan, and our lunches were at small, typical restaurants recommended by Adrien.
Adrien and his sons were super friendly, helpful, and always in a good mood (even when both vehicles got flat tires 10 minutes apart, for example!).
We had plenty of breaks every day, and every special request was accommodated!
We got a great rate: 1300 € per person. On top of that, we added tips for the drivers, pirogue guides, and cooks, as well as our lunches and any personal expenses.
We were lucky with the lemurs—we saw a lot of them!
At no point did we feel unsafe.
Day-by-day details on my Polarstep: https://www.polarsteps.com/moietlechatTraveller/25173082-madagascar-2027
Trip details:
Day 1: Flight from Réunion to Madagascar – night at IVATO HOTEL
Day 2: Antsirabe - Miandrivazo
220 km, about 7 hours
Day 3: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, village encounters, swim in the waterfall, bivouac. Lunch in the pirogue.
Day 4: Descent of the Tsiribihina in a traditional pirogue, visit to a village and school, bivouac; lunch in the pirogue.
Day 5: Tsarahotana - Bekopaka
End of the river descent. At 9 AM, 4x4, 45 km, 3 hours, ferry across the Tsiribihina.
Day 6: Visits to Parc Grand Tsingy de Benahara (sporty level) and Petit Tsingy (for all walkers)
Day 7: Bekopaka - Belo/Tsiribihina. Nighttime visit to Kirindy Reserve
135 km, 6 hours
Day 8: Kirindy Reserve, daytime visit in the morning – drive to Morondava
100 km, 5 hours on a sandy track; "Baobabs Amoureux" and sunset at the "Avenue of the Baobabs"
Day 9: Morondava - Belo sur Mer by motorized pirogue, 3 hours
Day 10: Belo sur Mer, visit to a fishing village, pirogue ride through the mangroves, meal on the beach
Day 11: Belo sur Mer - Morondava - Miandrivazo
3 hours by motorized pirogue, then 280 km, 7 hours by minibus
Day 12: Miandrivazo - Antsirabe – Ambositra; crafts
310 km, 9 hours by minibus
Day 13: Ambositra - Antoetra, 45 km, 3 hours / Arrival in the Zafimaniry region via a difficult track.
Start of hike to Sakaevo; 9 km; overnight with a local family.
Day 14: Loop hike: Sakaevo, Faliarivo, Ambohimiadana, Sakaevo, picnic at a waterfall, several possible routes. 2nd night with a local family.
Day 15: Return hike, then track from Sakaevo to Antoetra.
Day 16: Drive from Antsirabe to the outskirts of Antananarivo (about 4 hours) – nighttime visit to Andasibe National Park (mouse lemurs and more)
Day 17: Daytime visit to Andasibe National Park, observation hike, many lemur species including the indri indri
Day 18: Visit to the old town, return to the airport.
Don’t hesitate to give him a call.
hi, I didn’t find anything recent on this topic in the posts.
I’m looking for accommodation in Diego and possibly a short stay in Ramena.
something not too expensive: no need for AC, just a functional bathroom and a clean room.
I prioritize a warm welcome, good vibes, and great tips! :-)
thanks
Has anyone been to this base camp in the Diego area towards the west coast (Mozambique Channel)? The trip starts from Diego Suarez by 4x4 and boat,
with a visit to Nosy Hara and a few nearby islands.
Possible big-game fishing and diving.
Thanks in advance if anyone has info!
Hi everyone, I’m heading to Île aux Nattes in a few weeks and I’d like to know if euros are accepted in the island’s restaurants.
At the hotel where I’ll be staying, they take card payments, but for activities, I can’t find any reliable info.
Could anyone tell me the approximate cost in euros and/or ariary for a week (food outside the hotel) on the island for two people?
Also, has anyone ever exchanged money at the Paris Magenta exchange bureau?
Thanks!
Hello,
After asking questions on the site, here’s a little feedback on our trip in March and April.
Marseille/Antananarivo flight with Ethiopian Airlines was great both ways. I’d recommend it.
Domestic flights with Madagascar Airlines were just as smooth.
We had to change our plans because I was the victim of a snatch-theft attempt at Ivato... patellar fracture... so I ended up with a brace and more rest than hikes.
This let us spend more time in the same areas and make some connections.
We loved Tulear. Stayed with Alain—excellent value for money.
Mangily, where we stayed for 15 days. Hotel Bella Dona due to my little handicap. The pool replaced sea swims.
Mangily gets a bad rap for being very touristy. True, you get approached a lot on the beach—you have to play along and buy some trinkets, but after that, you get royal peace and lots of exchanges with locals. The village and its lively street are nice too. Don’t hesitate to eat with fishermen or at local bars.
Anakao, a big favorite. Just the journey there is worth it. Watching dozens of pirogues set off between 5 and 6 AM is a magical moment.
Stayed at Peter Pan’s place. Lots of chats with Dario since we were the only guests.
Planned a 4-day Antananarivo–Soniara–Ivango road trip with a driver.
Cut to 2 days because the boat to Sainte Marie was moved up due to weather. I don’t remember the company’s name, but it wasn’t great for safety—plus, we brought back fleas.
Visited Andasibe Park along the way. Quick tip: go in the morning.
A little over 2 weeks on Sainte Marie at Hôtel Mantis Soanambo—total luxury negotiated at a price that defied all competition because it was low season.
Meals were at little local eateries nearby.
We chose not to sleep on Île aux Nattes but went there several times during the day (crossing: 4000 ariary for 2).
You have to take a pirogue tour—it’s like stepping into a postcard.
Sainte Marie is a special place. A tropical island that feels like the Caribbean ones we’ve lived on. No security issues at all. We rented a scooter because we found tuk-tuk prices a bit steep. You can leave the scooter with helmet and keys and come back 4 hours later.
More amazing encounters here too.
Last part of our trip in Ampefy, a beautiful volcanic region with a very welcoming population.
Stayed with a friend of our driver.
Hotels in Ivato are plentiful and vary a lot in quality.
Les 12 Collines is a bit out of the way but only 21 € per night.
La Chato... very expensive for what you get.
I tried to keep it short.
Madagascar is a wonderful island with so many facets. Always so many emotions when I think back on this trip.
The extreme poverty... don’t hesitate to buy food for the kids on the beach, for example. It doesn’t cost much, but it means a lot to them.
The kindness of the people and, above all, those SMILES.
We’re hooked—we’re going back in November for 6 months... because yes, you can buy a 3-month visa at the airport (a question I’d asked), and you can extend it for another 3 months... if you apply in time at a police station.
We didn’t take Malarone either. We’d brought some, but there were few mosquitoes, and "Insect Écran" worked really well.
Hi everyone, we’re planning a trip to Réunion for 6 nights and Mauritius for 7 nights in March 2027. I’m starting to look into it now. We’re not hikers, so I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Should we book flights and small hotels separately, or go for a flight-and-stay package? We don’t want to blow our budget (around 2800 € per person). Thanks!
Gigi
Hello,
We’ll be on vacation in the Seychelles in July and will visit La Digue, Praslin, and then Mahé in that order. Our 21-year-old daughter will have to leave earlier than us while we’re still on Praslin.
We’re hesitating between the following options for her return:
Option 1:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 2:00 PM – arrives in Mahé at 3:15 PM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- The connection is very tight, leaving a 1- to 2-hour safety margin in case the ferry is delayed.
Option 2:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 8:00 AM – arrives in Mahé at 9:15 AM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- This is safer than Option 1, but it means she’d lose the whole day, spending it alone. We’d pay for a day pass giving her access to a hotel pool to kill time.
From experience, what do you think? Are significant ferry delays (2 hours or more) common, especially in July with the swell, making Option 1 too risky?
Or is even Option 2 too risky, and should our daughter take a ferry the day before (though that would mean missing a lot of time with us)?
Or should she take an Air Seychelles flight the same day instead of the ferry? Is that safer than the ferry? But it’s much more expensive…
I know no one can give me certainty on this, but I’d just love to hear your gut feeling from those who have experience with inter-island transfers in the Seychelles.
Thanks so much in advance!
Christophe
Hello,
Our trip is taking shape.
We’re leaving on February 28th. We’ll start by flying to Tulear, then make our way up to Tana at a relaxed pace before catching another flight to Diego Suarez.
We’d love to end our stay on Sainte Marie Island.
Is there a way to make the trip by land? By sea?
Just to clarify, we’re not pressed for time.
Thanks!
Hello everyone,
Thanks for this amazing forum—I’ve spent hours browsing through it.
I’m reaching out to ask for your help as we’re looking for a destination for our honeymoon.
We never travel outside Europe, so we’re total newbies, but we want to treat ourselves for this special occasion.
Dates: June 23 → July 8 (possibly until July 12)
Duration: 2 to 3 weeks
Budget: Not really an issue for this trip
Our plan:
- A seaside destination first and foremost, with beautiful beaches
- We’d like to do some hiking or at least go on walks with scenic viewpoints
- A relaxing trip with sunshine, lush greenery, and stunning landscapes
- A safe destination
Our thoughts so far:
- New Zealand: our dream, but it seems like the wrong time of year weather-wise ++
- Azores: ruled out due to unpredictable weather—what do you think?
- Mauritius/Reunion combo: vetoed by my future wife ^^
- Seychelles: seems like it could work, but I’ve read about a few downsides (no shops to buy food, snorkeling not always amazing, occasional weather/tide issues making swimming tricky)
Other options:
- French Polynesia: we’re really dreaming of it, but is 2 weeks too short for such a long trip?
- Hawaii: same question—too far?
- Sardinia?
Thanks so much for your help, and have a great weekend!
Every year, we love escaping the autumn season—I really can’t stand it—by heading somewhere sunny during the All Saints' holiday.
This year, we were thinking of Mauritius... We’d found a place to stay, but after digging deeper, I realized it’s 40% cheaper in July. And the flights with Emirates aren’t more expensive in the summer, even though it’s peak season for them, compared to October.
Yet, after checking a bunch of sites, I don’t get the impression the weather is bad there in July—maybe just a *tiny* bit less hot than in October, but nothing major...
So we’re tempted to go this summer after all.
This big price jump for All Saints' compared to summer is a mystery to me... Did I miss something?
If you’ve got any firsthand experience traveling to Mauritius in July or early August, I’d love to hear about it.
Hi! Recently, the domestic-flight terminal at Ivato has been moved to the old "international" airport, complete with its own scanner. On October 13th, I checked my luggage (which I had inspected before leaving my hotel in Tana) for a flight to Sambava. It wasn’t until I arrived at my accommodation in Antalaha and opened it that I discovered it had been searched (normal before boarding a plane), but to my surprise, the case containing my GPS fishfinder had been opened—likely mistaken for a laptop due to the scanner’s open access to all kinds of theft—and three SD cards were stolen. Luckily, two of the SD cards had their micro SDs inserted into the device, so I still had the Navionics micro card (300 €) essential for fishing. Of course, I’m not asking for compensation, just urging caution with checked luggage on "domestic" flights. (This is a copy-paste of my post on *Le Routard*.)
Hello,
I’m continuing the Antalaha–Maroantsetra discussion but for some info in the other direction, specifically about hiking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha.
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
Well, I still feel a bit lonely about this destination—no requests for info, no travel journals, or trip reports since I last posted over a year ago. A little disheartening.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this?
Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason.
Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market.
The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers...
The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there).
The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra.
I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it.
So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast.
Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it?
What do you think?
Hello, we’re heading to Mauritius for two weeks at the end of October. We’ll be staying in Trou aux Biches. We’d like to explore the island by bus if possible, so if you have any tips, we’d love to hear them. We’re on half-board, so we’ll also be checking out some nice, typical little restaurants and snack spots. Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi, is it possible to find out? How can I stay for 3 consecutive months in Madagascar, based on a fixed-date flight ticket? In short, how do I get a visa stamped at the airport??
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Hi there,
We’ve booked accommodation at Digwa Beach Chalet on La Digue. We’ll be arriving and leaving by ferry.
We’re only a 20-minute walk from our rental.
I was wondering if anyone has stayed at this place before and knows if they pick you up from the ferry? Is it free? How much does it cost?
My husband has reduced mobility and with the luggage, it’s not going to be easy. I’ve sent a message to the accommodation but haven’t heard back yet... Thanks so much for your help!
hi, does anyone have any recent info on the condition of this RN6 route? roadworks? maintenance?
and of course, about the two river crossings at Gué between Ambanja and Ambilobe on the Ifatsy and Mahavavy rivers (at the entrance to Ambilobe)
condition of the ferries, possible start of work on the bridges (with the addition of Bailey bridges)
any info after the rainy season, meaning after April 2025
thanks
Can you tell me how long (on average...) the Tana to Tamatave trip takes with local minibus transport?
Which reliable company do you recommend for booking?
Hi there,
We’re thinking of doing the train journey from Fianarantsoa to Manakara again. Is the train still running? After that, we’re planning to go from Manakara to Fort Dauphin by 4x4. Thanks for any tips you can share!
Hello,
After over 40 years of traveling, I’ve never used a driver-guide before.
Given my age, this time I’d like to avoid being squeezed into a bush taxi. I’ve never rented a 4x4 but usually go for sedans.
So, for my upcoming trip to Madagascar, I decided to hire a 4x4 with a driver. I contacted about ten agencies and guides listed in the GR, LP, and travel forums. The quotes I got for 20 days range from 6000 € to 1300 €, with or without fuel included. Most ask for either a full bank transfer upfront or a mobile wallet payment (30%, etc.) from France.
Personally, I’d prefer to see the vehicle and the driver before making any payment.
Also, I’d rather pay at the end of my trip.
Is it possible to find a provider in Tana upon arrival for around 50 or 60 € per day, including fuel, with short notice, some flexibility in my itinerary, and without being forced to accept the dictates of agencies or drivers recommended on certain forums?
Thanks for your replies.
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days)
Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights)
Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach.
Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot.
Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina).
Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights)
Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse.
Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights)
Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise.
Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach.
Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days)
Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights)
Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy.
Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire.
Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie.
Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling.
Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights)
Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach.
Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon.
Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery.
Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls).
Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights)
Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach.
Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs.
Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights)
Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park.
Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes.
Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village.
Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
Hey there,
I’m moving to Réunion Island in September and I’d love to hear about your experiences there. What’s there to do and what should I avoid?
Do you have any great tips for budget-friendly accommodation or places to stay?
Any advice on how to save money while I’m there?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
My friend and I are heading to Madagascar in March, and we were wondering if it’s possible to bring some cash and top up once we’re there (specifically in Tana).
Is it worth exchanging money if euros are accepted everywhere?
Thanks for your always super helpful tips on VF!
Hi there,
How do you get from Tamatave or Foulpointe to Sainte Marie Island? We’re heading to Madagascar from July 16 to 29, 2025.
How many days should we stay to explore the area?
What’s there to do in Tamatave, Foulpointe, or Sainte Marie Island?
What should we visit?
Thanks everyone!
Hi,
I’m taking the Cotisse bus soon to go to Antsohihy, so the route is Tana-Majunga with a stop at Antanambaza.
How long does it take to get to Antanambaza? Should I leave at 6:30 PM or 7:00 AM?
Considering I’ll probably need to find a hotel while waiting for a *taxi be* to Antsohihy, I’d rather not arrive in the middle of the night.
And since I’m asking—does anyone have a hotel recommendation in Antanambaza?
Also, can you find a seat on a *taxi be* mid-route?
