Bonjour!
Je suis rentrée d'un voyage de 22 jours a mada dont voici le compte rendu avec conseils hotels, prix...Nous avions un budget un peu élevé mais nous voulions etre le plus indépendants possible
Pour info j'ai fait la RN7, Diego et Nosy Be.
Je reste a votre dispo
Catherine
Samedi 13/08-22h00 Arrivée à Antananarivo
Prix du taxi: 20 000 ar (et non pas 30 000 comme nous l'avons appris hélas que à la fin de notre séjour!!)
Hôtel La varangue (59€)
C'est pas mal, mais en comparaison de la résidence Lapasoa ya pas photo! La déco des chambres est moyenne, l'acceuil inexistant mais c vrai que la maison et la salle de resto sont classes!
14/08 Visite de la ville d’Antanarivo
Hôtel la Varangue
Lundi 15/08 Départ avec la voiture avec chauffeur pour Antsirabé
Nous avons pris la location PARANY (locationparany@yahoo.fr), adorables! pour 10 jours tout compris 490€ (inclus, carburant, retour a vide du chauffeur et trajett fiana manakara) Le chauffeur Jacques était super, tres sympa toujours de bon conseil et tres patient! je vous le conseille absolument!!
Déjeuner à Antsirabé (on a fait un tour de la ville en pousse pousse 2000 ar mais on a pris deux pous pousse avec mon mari) puis départ pour Ambositra
Nuit à Ambositra Hôtel Mania 10€ (NUL, pas si propre que dit dans le lonely et routard: en arrivant notre chambre était sans dessus dessous avec le matelas taché par terre...parfait!mais a priori seul hotel de la ville avec l'hotel violette a étre au moins correct!)
16/08 Départ pour les villages Zafinary (6h00)
Guide: 20 000ar pour la matinée, on avait prévu le pique nique.
Une de nos expériences les plus magiques. Rando pour y arriver exceptionnelle (on a fait que Antoetra et le premier village situé a 2heures de la) et la, village perdu au milieu de la montagne, passage chez le doyen du village puis le chef du village...ENORME 1ere grosse emotion de gosse!
Départ pour Fiana
Nuit à Fiana Costo hotel (14€) Très bien chambre spacieuse, tres propre, et le resto est vraiment tres bon (ah ce foie gras!!)
17/08 Départ pour Manakara en train
2ieme grosse emotion ENORME*
Paysages eblouissants, animations dans les gares exceptionnelles; un vrai moment comme dans les "trains pas commes les autres"emission qui a bercé mon adolescence!!)
Acheter les petits trucs a bouffer des le début (riz dans de la feuille de bananier, langoustines, gateaux...) ensuite passé 11h 12h00, les vendeurs sont spécialisés dans le poisson fumé et la banane ...moins interessant!!)
Choquant: les gens qui jettent trois gateaux "tucs" a un groupe de 10 gosses depuis la fenetre du trainsans se donner au moins la peine de descendre du train et de partager du coup, gamins qui se disputent comme des chiens!! On se demande a quoi pensent les gens parfois!
Nuit à Manakara Hôtel Le parthenay Club 7€
Bungalow tres sympa, mais laisser aller général mais l'emplacement seul justifie le prix de toute facon
Jeudi 18/08 Visite de Manakara et des pecheurs aux alentours!!
Festin de langouste évidemment!!!
Nuit à Manakara
19/08 Départ pour Fiana en voiture
La piste est moins belle que le trajet en train, mais elle est deja tres belle.
Arrêt à Ramonafana
Nos premiers lémuriens!!!grace au choix d'un guide professionnel et non pas stagiaire...de toute facon ils sont au meme prix 20 000ar
Nuit à Fiana Costo hotel
20/08 Départ pour le parc de l’andringitra
Transfert à Vohitsoaka par 4/4 avec le Camp Catta (trasfert: 14€)
Bungalow avec sanitaire commun: 20€
Absolument génial
L'emplacement est magnifique, au milieu de nulle part Les bungalows sont bien décorés et surtout les guides sont top
L'après midi nous avons fait une ballade de 4 heures dans les villages alentours tres tres beau
Tellement différent de ce qu'on avait vu jusqu'a présent!!
21/08 départ pour un treck de deux jours pas dans le parc mais dans la vallée du tsaranoro, facile (mais deux bonnes grosses montées ou on en a bavé!!) mais quelle magie!! les villages sont vraiment loins de tout, l'acceuil dans les villages étaient tops pour une fois nous n'avions pas droit au VAZAH, !!!
Nuit en bivouac sous tente avec le guide et les porteurs...visite de lémuriens...et puis on a mangé un super bouillon d epoule avec du riz!!
22.08 Retour au camps et Départ pour le parc de l’Isalo
Nuit a l'isalo ranch 20€, les bungalows sont top, le resto est nul!
23/08 Visite du parc : canyon de smakis + piscine naturelle
Tres beau, c'est vrai que moins sauvage que l'angringitra mais c'est toutede meme magnifique, ne soyons pas blasés!!
Nuit au relais de la reine 90€ en demi pension
Acceuil tres glacial, un peu snob, mais proprios tres sympas!
Le resto délicieux et les chambres quasiment luxueuses...du bonheur!
24/08 Départ pour Tuléar
Nuit à Tuléar 15e
La plus grande imposture de Madagascar: le sax aphone
Bungalow cradouille, resto moyen et patrone soule des 17h, qui hurle sur ces employés...on était trop mal a l'aise!!
/Mari qui pourrait etre sympa dans le genre bougon/mysantrope mais qui est en fait que pas interessant et qui déteste sa vie a priori!!!
Mais ou ont été le lonely et le routard!!!!ils ont pas du avoir droit a une vieille femme avinée qui nous a soulés tout le repas avec une conversation sordide !!!!
On était avec des réunionais qu'on a retrouvé le lendemain ils étaient dégoutés aussi!!
25.08 Départ pour Ifaty en taxi brousse
nuit au nautilius...pas mal, tres simple pour 30€ quand meme...mais resto exceptionnel!!
26/08 Visite de la barriere de corail (on a pas vu beaucoup de poisson...mais encore langouste grillée!!)
Nuit au nautilius
27/08 départ en avion pour Antanarivo à 11h 250e pour 2
Visite des alentours de Tana
Nuit à Tana 35€ a la résidence lapasoa..un vrai coup de coeur:!!!!!
C'est superbe et le resto le KUDETA...délicieux!!
Ne pas aller a la boussole (tres décevant malgré les guides, la en revanche vrai gastronomie!)
28/08 Départ pour Diego Suarez en avion 06h55 arrivée à 08h15 250€
départ pour Joffreville, visite
Nuit au Nature Lodge Acceuil charmant (un de nos meilleur acceuil !)
hotel superbe...mais quel vent!!!
29/08 Visite de la montagne d’ambre
Rien d'exceptionnel!
Nuit au nature lodge
30/08 Visite de diégo
Très belle ville mais alors la nuit l'ambiance soyons clair un peu bar a putes c'est un peu génant, on se sent pas de danser sur de la musique pourtant tres bonne!!!
Nuit à l'Allamanda Hotel, très bon hotel, tout nouveau (ouvert en juillet) a cote de l'hotel de la marine.
31/08 Départ pour la mer d'émeraude
Génial!!!on a loué un taxi pour aller a la plage de ramena!
Nuit à l'Allamanda Hotel
01/09 Départ pour Nosy KOMBA (6h de route en taxui brousse, ) et transfert
Nuit à l’hotel TSARA KOMBA (aciennement la pirogue)...c'est cher mais notre voyage de noce méritait ca!
HOTEL grandiose, resto grandiose, déco exceptionnelle
Par contre accueil tres distant, assez condescendant, on était pas a l'aise et ya rien de pire dans une structure de trois bungalows!!!
A conseiller pour le luxe et la beauté de l'ile...mais les proprios...beof trop hautains et conscient de leur hotel exceptionnel pour etre simplement gentils!!
02/09 Visite de nosy komba
Ca vaut vraiment le coup, notamment l'intérieu de l'ile
03/09 Visite de Nosy Tanikely
On plonge dans un aquarium Ifaty peut aller se rhabiller!!!
C'est superbe, on a meme vu les tortues!!
04/09 Plages et repos
05/09 Visite de nosy be le matin (distillerie d'ylang ylang et rhum ...tres interessant!!! en revanche la beauté de nosy komba dépasse celle de nosy be a mon avis...mais on a pas vu toutes les plages de nosy be, seulement la plus grande pres de helle ville qui est vraiment pas top!!
Départ 14h00, arrivée à 15h00 a tana250e
départ pour Paris à 01h00
Voili voilou en conclu plus beau voyage que j'ai fait!!!!!
Bonsoir,
Belle relation de voyage qui met l'eau à la bouche ... mais justement j'y pars en Octobre.
Question : vous aviez les guides du R (éditions 2005-2006 ?) et le LP (édition 2005 ?), sont-ils à jour ? sont-ils complémentaires ? si vous aviez eu à choisir l'un des deux, lequel auriez-vous sélectionné ?
Merci de votre réponse.
Les deux sont complémentaires pour moi a chacun de mes voyages
Chez le routard les commentaires tres politiquement corrects m'énervent et plus les endroits sont pourris mieux c'est...pour autant leurs adresses notamment d eresto sont top et il y a vraiment de splans routard au niveu des transmports.
Le lonely a des commentaires plus vrais sur le pays mais les adresses végétariennes et les resto mauvais sont leurs spécialités.
Ils font en plus trop souvent appels aux agences locales.
Voilou donc toujours les deux dans ma valise.
Cat
Bonsoir Cat,
Merci pour ton étude comparative, finalement ta conclusion est la bonne : 2 guides valent mieux qu'un ! Encore que je n'ai pas tout à fait renoncé à partir un jour sans aucun guide !!!
Ah ces Anglo-Saxons si peu intéressés par les nourritures ... terrestres !
Nous avons passé 2 fois 4 jours au Saxaphone à Tulear. Nous avons adoré cette ambiance décalée . Les collections et la culture du patron sont passionnantes dans un décor digne d'un musée. Les enfants ont joué avec le lémurien et on a beaucoup ri. La patronne est un personnage dont je n'aimerai pas être l'employé, OK mais comme tout alcoolo, il faut savoir la prendre pour bien rigoler. Les employés en cuisine l'imitent...
Bref, le pire endroit de mada!....ça me choque!
votre récit m'a beaucoup intéressée puisque moi même je pars samedi prochain pour 3 semaines à Madagascar ...
petite question : j'aurais voulu savoir si vous aviez suivi un traitement anti-paludéen pour votre périple.
Bonjour
Coté palu, cela dépend ou vous allez. Les hauts plateaux sont plutot safe car il pele trop pour les anopheles, les vecteurs du palu.
Bien se protéger, dormir sous moustiquaire surtout sur les cotes. Les traitements préventifs ne sont pas toujours bien efficaces.
Il existe de nouveaux curatifs qui sont bien en cas de crise ou de presomption de crise (si pas de médecin dans les environs) : Coartem et les médocs a base d'artemisine (Arsumax par exemple). On les trouve a Mada.
On trouve de tres bons medecins partout dans les villes malgaches, ne pas hesiter a consulter apres avoir demandé des noms de praticiens aupres des expats ou de connaissances locales. Il y a aussi Pasteur a Tana.
Bref plutot des bonnes conditions de voyage.
merci de vos réponses, j'avais effectivement entendu parlé de traitement à base d'artémisine en afrique, a priori efficace et avec peut être moins d'effets secondaires que les traitements préventifs que l'on trouve en France ...
Bonjour, nous partons d'ici 3 semaine à Madagasar (Tana+Sud, NosyBe/Alefa/Tsarabanjina) et j'aimerais savoir si tu as réservé tous les hôtels de la route du Sud ainsi que les vols intérieurs avant de partir ou si ce n'est pas la peine ? merci beaucoup
Bravo!!!
j'ai pas fais mieux, mais efffffectiivement, le soir à Diégo, c'est bar à pute, mais bon, on s'y fait.
Sinon, vous n'etes pas allé au "balafomanga", un resto- bar trop chouette, car le proprio a des blagues à vous faire mort de rire toute la nuit
Que la terre est petite, mais pourquoi je n'ai jamais rencontré Beyonce
Je vois que t'as ete au Tsara Komba. Nous aussi on part en voyage de noce. On voulait aller à Tsarabanjina, mais complet.
Tu dis que les proprios sont pas sympa, mais est-ce que vous vous sentiez quand meme à l'aise!?
Les excursions qu'ils porposent, c'est cher?
Et autrement, pour atteindre les villages de l'iles, c'est facile? faut-il vraiment prendre la pension complete?
Peux-tu nous répondre rapidement, car on a plus bcp de temps.
Apres on va aussi faire le nord de madagascar en direction de diego suarez, quels sont les trucs qu'il ne faut pas manquer?
merci et a bientot j'espère.
Le voyage est le meilleur moyen pour s'évader du monde du travail et pour se ressourcer!!!
bonjour j ' ai le même avis que vous sur le saxaphone..avec en plus le patron qui se dit souffrir de dyscalculie et qui se trompe dans les notes....on m 'a volé 50 euros dans le coffre...devant mon mécontentement ils ont du me les rendre...j ai d abord pensé au personnel...puis aux patrons...il faudrait informer les guides sur ce qui se passe dans cet établissement...cordialement
Tous les lieux de nuit a Mada sont fréquentés par les putes; diego un plus chaud car c un port; mais globalement bonne ambiance pour qui aime faire la fête et centre ville agreable;
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
C'est vrai que Mada reste un pays ou il faut prendre son temps ..
Mais on a pas tous 1 mois ou 3 mois de vacances .Elle a quand meme pris 3 vols interieurs
Je trouve que c'est bien construis pour un voyage de noce..
Il y a quelques temps je vous posez quelques questions de manière à pouvoir organiser mon voyage à Mada. J'en rentre et j'ai les réponses à toutes ces…
Après avoir posé des questions sur le site, petit retour sur notre séjour de mars et avril. Vol Marseille/Tana avec Ethiopian Airlines nickel à l aller comme…
Sites personnels des membres › Madagascar · 0 replies
Nous revenons de 2 semaines à Madagascar et je me permets de partager notre retour, car nous avions eu pas mal de peine à préparer notre itinéraire avant le…
Cela fait 15 anbs que je ne suis pas alle a ste marie j allais souvent a l hotel les baleines c est tres roots maais j ai l impression q u il y a eu des…
Je commence par la gentillesse malgache, les sourires et la douceur de ce pays si attachant Voila mon trajet: Tana - Andsirabé - Ambositra - Fiana - Manakara -…
Has anyone been to this base camp in the Diego area towards the west coast (Mozambique Channel)? The trip starts from Diego Suarez by 4x4 and boat,
with a visit to Nosy Hara and a few nearby islands.
Possible big-game fishing and diving.
Thanks in advance if anyone has info!
Hi everyone, I’m heading to Île aux Nattes in a few weeks and I’d like to know if euros are accepted in the island’s restaurants.
At the hotel where I’ll be staying, they take card payments, but for activities, I can’t find any reliable info.
Could anyone tell me the approximate cost in euros and/or ariary for a week (food outside the hotel) on the island for two people?
Also, has anyone ever exchanged money at the Paris Magenta exchange bureau?
Thanks!
Hello,
After asking questions on the site, here’s a little feedback on our trip in March and April.
Marseille/Antananarivo flight with Ethiopian Airlines was great both ways. I’d recommend it.
Domestic flights with Madagascar Airlines were just as smooth.
We had to change our plans because I was the victim of a snatch-theft attempt at Ivato... patellar fracture... so I ended up with a brace and more rest than hikes.
This let us spend more time in the same areas and make some connections.
We loved Tulear. Stayed with Alain—excellent value for money.
Mangily, where we stayed for 15 days. Hotel Bella Dona due to my little handicap. The pool replaced sea swims.
Mangily gets a bad rap for being very touristy. True, you get approached a lot on the beach—you have to play along and buy some trinkets, but after that, you get royal peace and lots of exchanges with locals. The village and its lively street are nice too. Don’t hesitate to eat with fishermen or at local bars.
Anakao, a big favorite. Just the journey there is worth it. Watching dozens of pirogues set off between 5 and 6 AM is a magical moment.
Stayed at Peter Pan’s place. Lots of chats with Dario since we were the only guests.
Planned a 4-day Antananarivo–Soniara–Ivango road trip with a driver.
Cut to 2 days because the boat to Sainte Marie was moved up due to weather. I don’t remember the company’s name, but it wasn’t great for safety—plus, we brought back fleas.
Visited Andasibe Park along the way. Quick tip: go in the morning.
A little over 2 weeks on Sainte Marie at Hôtel Mantis Soanambo—total luxury negotiated at a price that defied all competition because it was low season.
Meals were at little local eateries nearby.
We chose not to sleep on Île aux Nattes but went there several times during the day (crossing: 4000 ariary for 2).
You have to take a pirogue tour—it’s like stepping into a postcard.
Sainte Marie is a special place. A tropical island that feels like the Caribbean ones we’ve lived on. No security issues at all. We rented a scooter because we found tuk-tuk prices a bit steep. You can leave the scooter with helmet and keys and come back 4 hours later.
More amazing encounters here too.
Last part of our trip in Ampefy, a beautiful volcanic region with a very welcoming population.
Stayed with a friend of our driver.
Hotels in Ivato are plentiful and vary a lot in quality.
Les 12 Collines is a bit out of the way but only 21 € per night.
La Chato... very expensive for what you get.
I tried to keep it short.
Madagascar is a wonderful island with so many facets. Always so many emotions when I think back on this trip.
The extreme poverty... don’t hesitate to buy food for the kids on the beach, for example. It doesn’t cost much, but it means a lot to them.
The kindness of the people and, above all, those SMILES.
We’re hooked—we’re going back in November for 6 months... because yes, you can buy a 3-month visa at the airport (a question I’d asked), and you can extend it for another 3 months... if you apply in time at a police station.
We didn’t take Malarone either. We’d brought some, but there were few mosquitoes, and "Insect Écran" worked really well.
Hi everyone, we’re planning a trip to Réunion for 6 nights and Mauritius for 7 nights in March 2027. I’m starting to look into it now. We’re not hikers, so I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Should we book flights and small hotels separately, or go for a flight-and-stay package? We don’t want to blow our budget (around 2800 € per person). Thanks!
Gigi
Hello,
We’ll be on vacation in the Seychelles in July and will visit La Digue, Praslin, and then Mahé in that order. Our 21-year-old daughter will have to leave earlier than us while we’re still on Praslin.
We’re hesitating between the following options for her return:
Option 1:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 2:00 PM – arrives in Mahé at 3:15 PM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- The connection is very tight, leaving a 1- to 2-hour safety margin in case the ferry is delayed.
Option 2:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 8:00 AM – arrives in Mahé at 9:15 AM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- This is safer than Option 1, but it means she’d lose the whole day, spending it alone. We’d pay for a day pass giving her access to a hotel pool to kill time.
From experience, what do you think? Are significant ferry delays (2 hours or more) common, especially in July with the swell, making Option 1 too risky?
Or is even Option 2 too risky, and should our daughter take a ferry the day before (though that would mean missing a lot of time with us)?
Or should she take an Air Seychelles flight the same day instead of the ferry? Is that safer than the ferry? But it’s much more expensive…
I know no one can give me certainty on this, but I’d just love to hear your gut feeling from those who have experience with inter-island transfers in the Seychelles.
Thanks so much in advance!
Christophe
Hello,
Our trip is taking shape.
We’re leaving on February 28th. We’ll start by flying to Tulear, then make our way up to Tana at a relaxed pace before catching another flight to Diego Suarez.
We’d love to end our stay on Sainte Marie Island.
Is there a way to make the trip by land? By sea?
Just to clarify, we’re not pressed for time.
Thanks!
Hello everyone,
Thanks for this amazing forum—I’ve spent hours browsing through it.
I’m reaching out to ask for your help as we’re looking for a destination for our honeymoon.
We never travel outside Europe, so we’re total newbies, but we want to treat ourselves for this special occasion.
Dates: June 23 → July 8 (possibly until July 12)
Duration: 2 to 3 weeks
Budget: Not really an issue for this trip
Our plan:
- A seaside destination first and foremost, with beautiful beaches
- We’d like to do some hiking or at least go on walks with scenic viewpoints
- A relaxing trip with sunshine, lush greenery, and stunning landscapes
- A safe destination
Our thoughts so far:
- New Zealand: our dream, but it seems like the wrong time of year weather-wise ++
- Azores: ruled out due to unpredictable weather—what do you think?
- Mauritius/Reunion combo: vetoed by my future wife ^^
- Seychelles: seems like it could work, but I’ve read about a few downsides (no shops to buy food, snorkeling not always amazing, occasional weather/tide issues making swimming tricky)
Other options:
- French Polynesia: we’re really dreaming of it, but is 2 weeks too short for such a long trip?
- Hawaii: same question—too far?
- Sardinia?
Thanks so much for your help, and have a great weekend!
Every year, we love escaping the autumn season—I really can’t stand it—by heading somewhere sunny during the All Saints' holiday.
This year, we were thinking of Mauritius... We’d found a place to stay, but after digging deeper, I realized it’s 40% cheaper in July. And the flights with Emirates aren’t more expensive in the summer, even though it’s peak season for them, compared to October.
Yet, after checking a bunch of sites, I don’t get the impression the weather is bad there in July—maybe just a *tiny* bit less hot than in October, but nothing major...
So we’re tempted to go this summer after all.
This big price jump for All Saints' compared to summer is a mystery to me... Did I miss something?
If you’ve got any firsthand experience traveling to Mauritius in July or early August, I’d love to hear about it.
Hi! Recently, the domestic-flight terminal at Ivato has been moved to the old "international" airport, complete with its own scanner. On October 13th, I checked my luggage (which I had inspected before leaving my hotel in Tana) for a flight to Sambava. It wasn’t until I arrived at my accommodation in Antalaha and opened it that I discovered it had been searched (normal before boarding a plane), but to my surprise, the case containing my GPS fishfinder had been opened—likely mistaken for a laptop due to the scanner’s open access to all kinds of theft—and three SD cards were stolen. Luckily, two of the SD cards had their micro SDs inserted into the device, so I still had the Navionics micro card (300 €) essential for fishing. Of course, I’m not asking for compensation, just urging caution with checked luggage on "domestic" flights. (This is a copy-paste of my post on *Le Routard*.)
Hello,
I’m continuing the Antalaha–Maroantsetra discussion but for some info in the other direction, specifically about hiking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha.
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
Well, I still feel a bit lonely about this destination—no requests for info, no travel journals, or trip reports since I last posted over a year ago. A little disheartening.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this?
Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason.
Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market.
The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers...
The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there).
The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra.
I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it.
So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast.
Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it?
What do you think?
Hello, we’re heading to Mauritius for two weeks at the end of October. We’ll be staying in Trou aux Biches. We’d like to explore the island by bus if possible, so if you have any tips, we’d love to hear them. We’re on half-board, so we’ll also be checking out some nice, typical little restaurants and snack spots. Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi, is it possible to find out? How can I stay for 3 consecutive months in Madagascar, based on a fixed-date flight ticket? In short, how do I get a visa stamped at the airport??
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Hi there,
We’ve booked accommodation at Digwa Beach Chalet on La Digue. We’ll be arriving and leaving by ferry.
We’re only a 20-minute walk from our rental.
I was wondering if anyone has stayed at this place before and knows if they pick you up from the ferry? Is it free? How much does it cost?
My husband has reduced mobility and with the luggage, it’s not going to be easy. I’ve sent a message to the accommodation but haven’t heard back yet... Thanks so much for your help!
hi, does anyone have any recent info on the condition of this RN6 route? roadworks? maintenance?
and of course, about the two river crossings at Gué between Ambanja and Ambilobe on the Ifatsy and Mahavavy rivers (at the entrance to Ambilobe)
condition of the ferries, possible start of work on the bridges (with the addition of Bailey bridges)
any info after the rainy season, meaning after April 2025
thanks
Can you tell me how long (on average...) the Tana to Tamatave trip takes with local minibus transport?
Which reliable company do you recommend for booking?
Hi there,
We’re thinking of doing the train journey from Fianarantsoa to Manakara again. Is the train still running? After that, we’re planning to go from Manakara to Fort Dauphin by 4x4. Thanks for any tips you can share!
Hello,
After over 40 years of traveling, I’ve never used a driver-guide before.
Given my age, this time I’d like to avoid being squeezed into a bush taxi. I’ve never rented a 4x4 but usually go for sedans.
So, for my upcoming trip to Madagascar, I decided to hire a 4x4 with a driver. I contacted about ten agencies and guides listed in the GR, LP, and travel forums. The quotes I got for 20 days range from 6000 € to 1300 €, with or without fuel included. Most ask for either a full bank transfer upfront or a mobile wallet payment (30%, etc.) from France.
Personally, I’d prefer to see the vehicle and the driver before making any payment.
Also, I’d rather pay at the end of my trip.
Is it possible to find a provider in Tana upon arrival for around 50 or 60 € per day, including fuel, with short notice, some flexibility in my itinerary, and without being forced to accept the dictates of agencies or drivers recommended on certain forums?
Thanks for your replies.
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days)
Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights)
Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach.
Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot.
Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina).
Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights)
Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse.
Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights)
Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise.
Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach.
Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days)
Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights)
Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy.
Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire.
Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie.
Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling.
Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights)
Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach.
Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon.
Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery.
Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls).
Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights)
Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach.
Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs.
Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights)
Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park.
Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes.
Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village.
Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
Hey there,
I’m moving to Réunion Island in September and I’d love to hear about your experiences there. What’s there to do and what should I avoid?
Do you have any great tips for budget-friendly accommodation or places to stay?
Any advice on how to save money while I’m there?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
My friend and I are heading to Madagascar in March, and we were wondering if it’s possible to bring some cash and top up once we’re there (specifically in Tana).
Is it worth exchanging money if euros are accepted everywhere?
Thanks for your always super helpful tips on VF!
Hi there,
How do you get from Tamatave or Foulpointe to Sainte Marie Island? We’re heading to Madagascar from July 16 to 29, 2025.
How many days should we stay to explore the area?
What’s there to do in Tamatave, Foulpointe, or Sainte Marie Island?
What should we visit?
Thanks everyone!
Hi,
I’m taking the Cotisse bus soon to go to Antsohihy, so the route is Tana-Majunga with a stop at Antanambaza.
How long does it take to get to Antanambaza? Should I leave at 6:30 PM or 7:00 AM?
Considering I’ll probably need to find a hotel while waiting for a *taxi be* to Antsohihy, I’d rather not arrive in the middle of the night.
And since I’m asking—does anyone have a hotel recommendation in Antanambaza?
Also, can you find a seat on a *taxi be* mid-route?
I'm heading to Nosy Be (Madagascar) this coming October. This is my very first visit to this part of the Indian Ocean. I'd like to know if it's better to bring my bank card and withdraw cash from ATMs there, or if it would be preferable to bring cash in euros or dollars and exchange it for the local currency upon arrival.
Thanks!
/D
