Un ami et moi souhaitons partir pour le senegal pour une durée de 14 jours et ça du 20 decembre au 2 janvier! Je pense que nous aussi nous arriverons à Dakar. Etant donné que notre voyage est assez court pensez vous qu'il nous sera possible de faire la region de seloum, la ville Saint Louis, la region de sine saloum ainsi que les alentours de Dakar? Quel est alors le moyen de locomotion le plus pratique? Aussi pourriez vous m'indiquer un endroit sympa pour passer le réveillon?
Aussi n'y a-t-il pas de risques d'agression au Sénégal (surtout en ce moment)?? Le site du ministère des affaires étrangère déconseille par exemple la région de salamence...
Tout a fait possible de faire un tour sympa au Sénégal en visitant sans faire un marathon, De Dakar a Saly ou la petite côte pour faire vos quartiers puis aprés une journée découverte le saloum en trois jours, (Palmarin, Toubakouta et djifer) retour a Saly pour 2 jours détente puis une virée Dakar gorée , lac rose dans la même journée puis encore Saly pour farniente avant le réveillon.
LA casmance c'est par sécurité que le ministère des AF prévient les ressortissant Français mais il n'y a rien a craindre dans la région surtout du coté de Ziguinchor et le CAp très sécurisé.
Je suis Français , je vie au Sénégal depuis quelques années pour un guide qui vous feras un topo de votre parcours vous pouvez me demandez conseil je me ferais un plaisir de vous proposer une personne sur..
Tu parles beaucoup de Saly, ou est-ce que c'est? Si c'est une ville je ne la retrouve pas sur la carte!
Vu que tu vis au Sénégal n'as tu pas des adresses pour louer une voiture sur place, pas trop chèr...
Il me semblait aussi que le ministère des AF exgérait au sujet de la Casamance mais je voulais en être sûr! Pour y aller, d'après toi quel est le meilleur moyen de transport? J'ai cru voir qu'il y avait des bateaux faisant la navette, connais-tu la durée du voyage?
je suis de l'avis de Cleastre car je préfère prendre mon temps car chaque rencontre est une découverte.
Pour une première, "visiter" est une approche, alors pourquoi pas ne passer qu'une journée ici et là ?
Mactoto a peut être ta solution, ainsi pas de souci logistique pour les déplacements.
Pour rejoindre la Casamance :
- la route des taxis 7 places, minibus et cars partent tous les jours des gares routières. Je privilégie les 7 places ou les cars de nuit. Financièrement c'est le plus économique, et l'expérience est à faire !
- le ferry : une douzaine d'heures de traversée. C'est le moyen que je préfère, mais seulement 2 rotations/jours,
- l'avion : prohibitif avec l'aller simple (45 mn de vol) à + ou - 100 € ; Vols journaliers.
La Casamance où je vis 6 mois/an, mérite d'être connue et aimée !
Pour plus d'infos, me rejoindre par mail : asso.un@gmail.com en rappelant le pseudo.
Notre site : http://asso-un.fr
mactoto parle pour sa boutique puisqu'en autres activités, il propose locations, guide,
ent. bâtiment...). Il fait comme beaucoup sur ce site et beaucoup de nouveux comme Drrri n'y voient que du feu...😕
Possible,
mais si ses prix sont compétitifs et les virées intéressantes avec un guide capable d'expliquer flore, faune, vie locale.... pourquoi pas ?
ça permet aux voyageurs "hors sentiers battus" de trouver peut-être ce qu'ils cherchent.
Ceci dit, c'est vrai que "confier" la logistique de son périple à des inconnus comporte des aléas.
J'aimerai bien que mactoto réagisse à cet échange et explique clairement ce qu'il propose et à quels tarifs.
En 2 semaines, j'avais visité la petite côte (saly, somone, warang, nianing), dakar et Gorée, Thiès et St louis; en transports locaux 7 places et sans me presser
Alors que te conseiller; St louis et Gorée comme incontournables; pour la mer vas à Nianing c'est un des meilleurs coins de la petite côte.
Thiès; ville sans grand intérêt sauf si comme moi tu es attiré par les villes Africaines ou peu de touristes passent.
Dakar; très cher à mon gout au niveau logement; intéressant que pour aller à Gorée et faire un tour de corniche.
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
J'entends bien tout ce que vous me dites!! Et apparemment nous avons eu les yeux un peu gros!! Nous allons donc revoir notre programme à la baisse. Dès que cela sera fait je reviendrais sur cette discussion et j'espère que vous serez à nouveau là pour me faire part de vos critiques constructives! N'es-ce pas Cleastre.... 😉
Mais ce qui me manque pour l'instant ça serait donc des adresses de logement pas trop chèr sur Dakar déjâ et pour Saint Louis ou alors en Casamence!!! Du genre Warung comme il en existe à Bali (un de mes précédents voyage) à la façon Sénégalaise.
En tout cas merci de me faire partager vos expériences!
A bientôt!!
Bonjour,
les risques d'agression au Sénégal ne me semble pas important.Un comportement normal sans signe ostentatoire de richesse est évidemment conseillé.Il ne faut pas oublié que vous représentez la richesse pour ces gens pauvres à très pauvres.Ils feront sans doute tout pour gagner un peu d'argent mais très rarement avec violence.Guide, porter vos sacs etc.Les déplacements par route sont longs et aléatoires.Saint Louis et le sine saloum sont à l'opposé par rapport à Dakar.Pour ma part , nous partons régulierement au Sénégal pour du repos.Une semaine sur la petite cote , loin de Sally et le sine saloum pour le depaysement.Nous louons une maison à popenguine ou la somone.Nous sommes en général, fatigués en février et profitons du soleil , des restos et des visites sans trop de kilometres.Les taxis sont très peu chers....J ai un peu de mal.Je prefere louer un vehicule qui me semble en bon état(relatif) à un particulier.Ce sont des specialistes..Pour le moment pas de problemes.Je prefererais venir deux fois au Senegal pour dakar et St louis puis le sud.Le sine saloum mérite que l'on y reste un peu.Il faut prendre le temps de profiter et sortir du rythme européen.
Denis.0240408062
bonjour
mon ami et moi sommes revenus du Sénégal où nous avons résidé chez l'habitant pendant 15 j du 6 au 22 /09/2010
nous étions à Nianing et notre hote nous a servi de guide durant tout notre séjour
nous avons vécu 15 jrs merveilleux et sommes tombés "amoureux " de ce magnifique pays
nous avons visité : le lac rose, dakar, gorée, les iles de sine- saloum, joal fadiouth, M'Bour avec son marché et ses retours de pirogues,
nous n'avons pas pu aller à st louis car s'était inondé(saison des pluies!!!)
nous avons visité des familles vivant dans la brousse et fait de merveilleuses rencontres!!!!
nous ne regrettons pas d'etre allé chez l'habitant et d'avoir vécu comme eux, au plus prés de la population
je vous souhaite un trés bon séjour auSénégal
il faur arreter la masturbation intelectuelle il n'y a rien a voir au senegal qui necessite d'y aller Dakar avec sa statue a la gloire de Wade le Lac rose une gargouille sale et pour ce qui est de la petite cote Saly en particulier c'est de l'arnaque pure et simple le sine saloum ??, bof il te reste la casamance mais point obliger d'aller si loin pour voir cette region La plus part des gens qui vont au Senegal y vont pour une seule chose cherches et tu trouveras quand tu subits des heures et des heures de coupures de courant et qu'il fait 45 ou 50 degre dite moi ou est le plaisir ou alors voyager dans les hotels de luxes avec le confort de la france a chacun sa croix et faites attentions aux charmeurs et aux beaux parleurs de tous genres
Geneviève (Géli) est une mine d'infos sur la Casamance et toujours de bons conseils... J'ai d'ailleurs suivi les siens et ça m'a plutôt bien réussi !
Par contre je pense que tu as fait une petite erreur de frappe quand tu parles des rotations du Ferry pour la Casamance, ce n'est pas 2/jours mais 2/semaines (malheureusement !) à l'aller comme au retour... C'est un beau voyage, si vous avez le temps, n'hésitez pas à le prendre (mais attention au mal de mer ; prévoir ce qu'il faut)
Amicalement
Nous n'héritons pas de la terre de nos parents, nous l'empruntons à nos enfants.
Saint Exupéry
tu as raison ROCHELLE, 2 rotations par semaine du ferry seulement ! Il est question de les porter à 3, mais quand ?
Pour le mal de mer, c'est bien de prévoir mais à bord l'infirmier donne volontiers ce qu'il faut, j'ai testé c'est efficace et ça permet de bien dormir toute la nuit !
Belle journée à tous et toutes 😉
Oui je prends l'air sur le fleuve Casamance au petit matin ! (ça me change de l'air Atlantique !)
c'est Francia qui a pris la photo !
Bon week-end et j'espère à bientôt...
Nous n'héritons pas de la terre de nos parents, nous l'empruntons à nos enfants.
Saint Exupéry
Tu m'en apprendras toujours Geneviève !!! un infirmier à bord du Ferry, je ne savais pas... et qui vole au secours de ceux qui ont le mal de mer ! mais quel luxe !!!
Bon week-end
Nous n'héritons pas de la terre de nos parents, nous l'empruntons à nos enfants.
Saint Exupéry
Pour te répondre Geli, je ne suis pas un guide ou gérant d'une agence de tourisme au Sénégal, tout comme toi j'y reside, je possède une petite entreprise de construction de maisons individuel.
Visiter le Sénégal sans prise de tête c'est possible... Arrivé a Dakar prendre un Taxi jaune pour Saly c'est 30 000 frs cfa mais je paye 50€, ce prix doit rester ferme.
Sur Saly on trouve des chambres d'hôtes pour 15 000frs/jour (23€) de bon standing et prés de la mer vous avez aussi WARANG? NIANING , PALMARIN plus loin dans le Saloum.
Sans prise de tête et coté pratique selon moyen c'est louer un Taxi clando a Saly pour 15 000 frs /jour puis payer le gasoil en sus pour les déplacements toutes direction soit 10 a 50€ selon les déplacement a l'interieur du pays. ( ex pour Dakar A/R 15 000frs gasoil pour St louis A/R 40 000 frs)SI vous rester dans le Secteur M'bour Saly c'est 10€ de gasoil pour la journée sans plus là aussi faut rester ferme sur les tarifs.
j'ai eu un couple d'amis qui ont fait de la sorte, en gardant le taxi 10 jours ils ont eu pour 150€ de taxi et 230€ de gasoil. Pour les guides ça a été sur place a Gorée ont trouve toute sorte de guide pour 3000frs (5€) lac rose idem, a St louis aussi alors pas de prise de tête pour un choix de guide pour tout le séjour.
J'ai quelques contact et adresses pour faire un bon séjour c'est tout ce que je propose.
Tout comme en Casamance, a ce propos Geli si tu as le tel de Gérard Watreau a Djibélor je suis preneur passe lui mon bonjour si tu le connais de la part de TOTO
Marie Odette de la ferme oui, j'ai plus de nouvelles d'eux, j'espère qu'ils vont bien ainsi que la ferme que j'ai vu naître ...passe lui le bonjour de ma part de TOTO, elle te fera un bise pour moi ... c'est ma soeur de coeur.
Que fais tu en Casamance . pourrais avoir quelques maison d'hôtes a conseillé a des amies pour décembre ? je rentre en France pour 15 jours et je suis content je viens de recevoir mon passeport Cap verdien pour contourner les passe avant , en tant que membre de la CDEAO j'ai droit a un passe avant de 90 jours ... je croise les doigts .
Pas de visa pour les Français pour court séjour au Sénégal;
Vaccins; consulter un centre de vaccination international; mais recommandé de faire ou être à jour; DT Polio, fièvre jaune, hépatite A et Typhoide..plus prophylaxie anti paludique adaptée aux zones 3 (Malarone par ex).
a++
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
Pas de vaccins obligatoires pour le Sénégal, sauf si tu es en "voyage clé en mains".
Pas de visa pour les séjours n'excédant pas 3 mois
Pour les soins médicaux si besoin : demander une facture au médecin et au pharmacien; à présenter à ton retour en France à la sécu qui rembourse comme d'habitude.
Si tu pars pour plus de 3 mois, il est prudent de prendre une assurance individuelle auprès de n'importe quelle cie pour d'éventuels soins, hospitalisation, rapatriement, perte de papiers ou autres....
Pour les avoir mises en concurrence, je prends mon assurance individuelle auprès de mon assureur général en France, me rejoindre par mail pour + d'infos
asso.un@gmail.com
Prendre une assurance rapatriement, soins...me semble utile même pour un court séjour; en plus c'est pas onéreux pour un court séjour.
3 jours d'hospitalisations à Ouagadougou ont couté près de 1000 euro; si je n'avais pas eu l'assurance mondial assistance (payé 30 euro sur opodo😎), j'aurai du avancer les frais, me démerder tout seul pour modifier mon vol international, me payer les nuits d'hôtel supplémentaires après hospitalisation et en attente d'être mis sur un nouveau vol (2 nuits en plus)...tout ça a été pris en charge et c'est appréciable quand tu ressors d'une crise de palu et d'une hospitalisation, d'avoir ça en moins à penser.
sans parler que j'aurai du attendre minimum 2 ou 3 mois pour me faire rembourser en France ensuite.
a++😉
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
En effet, il est sage d'être prévoyant, mais un billet réglé avec cb "gold" notamment couvre les risques -disent-ils- de ce genre pour les séjours jusqu'à 3 mois !
Il nous est arrivé de nous faire délivrer l'attestation en ce sens , par notre banque
Geli
quelle mouche vous pique mvtc ?
Il me semble que ce type de discussion peut intéresser beaucoup de monde. Personnellement quand les discussions ne m'intéressent pas, je n'y participe pas sans empêcher leur déroulement pour autant !
Je laisse les modérateurs apprécier
Merci et bonne fin de journée
Geli 😉
slu il est bien possible de fair ce voyage sans probleme.pour certain iles vous allez devoir payer la traversée à pirogue .pour la casamance je vous conseil de faire le voyage par le bateau (dakar_ziguinchor) .pour aller vers st louis toute voiture en bonne etat ferait lafaire
I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)
The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...
So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.
I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.
I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.
The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!
In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?
Hi,
Have you got any recent feedback from a trip back from São Tomé?
We're heading there in a few months.
One question among others: is swimming—well, snorkeling—risky there?
Thanks for your feedback, tips, etc.
I’m heading to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire for a long stay from July to September 2026. Could you please recommend any apartments for rent or a real estate agency? Thanks
I’m planning a trip to Benin in July, and I saw there were a few recent discussions about this destination. Would you have any suggestions for nice places to stay in Cotonou that won’t break the bank, as well as in other cities (Porto-Novo, Ouidah, etc.)? Thanks sooo much for all your valuable tips!
Hello,
We’re two senior travelers and would like to visit Cape Verde in Feb 2027.
We don’t hike but love meeting people, culture, and nature.
Which islands would you recommend, and do you know of any local agencies?
Thanks a million!
Hello,
We’re a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids who’ll be 2, 7, and 10 years old) planning to visit the islands of Santiago, Fogo, and Maio this summer. We’ll have 22 full days on the ground. It’s a shame (financially, logistically, and environmentally speaking!), but we’ll be taking 4 flights: a round-trip from Santiago to Fogo and another from Santiago to Maio. We’d like to position Maio toward the end of our stay since we enjoy ending our trips with a quieter beach phase.
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing:
23/07: Arrival in Santiago
24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days)
30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days)
05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days)
11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days)
15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike?
What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car?
Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike.
There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Hello from Quebec,
I’m a French-Canadian from Montreal. I’d love to go to Senegal during the Quebec winter to shorten this long season. Two people told me it’s not worth spending a lot of money to get there from Canada because there’s not much to discover. But I’m still skeptical. I’d love to read real testimonials from travelers who’ve been there, with as much info as possible. Thanks
Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming?
Thanks
Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time.
Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised).
Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day.
Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer.
Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well).
But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough).
Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like.
Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed.
Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great.
Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival!
I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy!
Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM.
Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha.
Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out.
Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo).
Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun.
Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule.
I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s.
If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options?
For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have.
Thanks so much for your help!
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands:
Arrival in Praia on July 8th
Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão.
We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much).
How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough?
Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot?
Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions!
Valéry
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe?
I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share:
- Your favorite places to visit and hikes
- Accommodations that charmed you
- Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet)
- Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao)
- Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights
- Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista
- Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao:
I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)...
For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.
Hi there,
I’m leaving for Cape Verde at the end of the week. I’ve heard that transportation isn’t very reliable, so I’d love your advice:
- My return flight is from Sal on the night of August 13–14
- I’ll be in São Vicente until August 10
- I found an indirect flight (São Vicente–Praia–Sal) on August 9–10 and a ferry on August 10 as well
- I’m traveling alone with two kids, ages 6 and 9
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Hello,
We’re planning a trip to São Vicente and Santo Antão in January.
We’re a couple (ages 51 and 57).
My husband is really into hiking. As for me, I’m not at my best right now—I’ve just recovered from a long illness and am still on medication that exhausts me and causes a lot of pain, so I won’t be able to keep up with very "physical" hikes.
That said, I still enjoy walking in nature.
We’re looking for advice on where we could stay. A place where my husband can go hiking while I take shorter walks. But also somewhere I can relax in nature, maybe go for a swim if possible, and enjoy local life—markets, music, etc.
Boat trips would be a great bonus for us.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Virginie