West Cork or Kerry in summer: which itinerary to choose for a family road trip?

Hi there,

It’s tricky to give advice when our travel styles and constraints seem so different.

I was traveling solo, stopping whenever I felt like it (at every spot I found beautiful) and didn’t mind racking up the kilometers. For example, I explored every road on the southwest peninsulas (just to be sure I didn’t miss anything) :-) It was overkill, but I had no time constraints or bookings. I can tell you won’t be able to do the same with three kids (including a teen).

To give you the best tips, it would help to know what interests your family. Medieval castles, lively villages, standing stones, coastal scenery, cliffs, lighthouse visits... Are you planning to hike, or just drive between points of interest?

For instance, you mentioned the risk of missing spectacular landscapes if you skip the Ring of Kerry. But on that peninsula, I think the most breathtaking scenery is actually inland (Moll’s Gap, Gap of Dunloe, and even Ballaghbeama Gap, to name a few). Yet hardly anyone goes there because most stick to the Ring. That said, driving through the center of the peninsulas can be tough for passengers (and the driver)—the roads are winding and very narrow.

Here are a few ideas that might work for a family: From Cork, head to Mizen Head via the southern route, stopping at the Drombeg Stone Circle (a mini Stonehenge), then visit Mizen Head Lighthouse and explore the ruins of Dunlough Fort. The scenery is stunning, and the roads are manageable.

While Sheep’s Head Peninsula has beautiful landscapes too, I’d say you can skip it—it’s extra kilometers without any standout attractions.

I have a soft spot for the Beara Peninsula. It’s less crowded than the Ring of Kerry but has similar highlights. Like I mentioned earlier about the Ring of Kerry, just driving around the edge feels like a missed opportunity. For truly spectacular scenery, I think the Healy Pass (and its surroundings) is absolutely worth it.

But can all of that replace the Ring of Kerry (with stops in Killarney, Kenmare, Sneem, Caherdaniel, and Valentia Island) and the Dingle Peninsula? I didn’t choose—maybe you won’t have to either!

To be fair, those two peninsulas are popular for a reason: - Traffic isn’t as bad as people say (both times I drove them, it was early August, and it wasn’t unbearable). If I got slowed down by other vehicles, I’d just pull over, take a break, snap some photos, and hit the road again when things cleared up. Even in peak season, it’s not like there’s an endless stream of cars from dawn till dusk—it’s not the A7 in late July :-))

In the end, I think the best approach is to grab some maps and a guidebook, mark everything that might interest you and your kids, and sketch out your route in advance. Most importantly, leave plenty of time so you’re not rushed—you’ll want flexibility for extra stops or detours.

One last thing (and it’s a big one): the weather. You won’t have much control over it, but remember that the most stunning landscape in sunshine can look gloomy and disappointing in the rain or under gray skies (Ireland’s nickname *is* the Emerald Isle for a reason :-)). Stay adaptable and patient.

Happy travels

Hi, Thanks for this really detailed reply. We’ve booked a house near Bantry for the 6 days.

I still need to find a few walks so we don’t feel like we’re just driving, but taking your comments into account, I’ve started planning our trip like this:

Day 1 Arrival in Cork at 9:20 AM Pick up the car and head to Kinsale (visit and meal)

Drombeg Stone Circle

Baltimore Beacon Pick up the keys to the house

Day 2 Mizen Head Dunlough Fort and visit the peninsula Sheep’s Head (if there’s enough time)

Day 3 Beara Peninsula Stops and walks to be decided

Day 4 Morning: St. Finbarr’s Oratory (walk by the lake)

Midday: Killarney, visit Muckross Abbey Afternoon: Return via Moll’s Gap and its many viewpoints.

Day 5 – Sunday, August 3 Ring of Kerry with return via Ballaghbeama Gap Stops and walks to be decided

Day 6 – Monday, August 4 Visit Cobh Departure from Cork at 6:45 PM

Hello,

Well, I think your plan is really great! [:)]

I love the "if enough time" and "stops and walks to be defined" parts because with all those landscapes, each more beautiful than the last, it’s hard to know how many times you’ll stop or how long it’ll take (even more true with kids).

I’d told you before that you could maybe skip Sheep’s Head, but given where you’re staying, you’re absolutely right—if you have the time, it won’t be a big detour, and it’s stunning too.

Plus, having a house booked means you won’t be rushed at the end of the day since you won’t have to reach a B&B by late afternoon.

And then there’s the lake, ruins, lighthouse, stone circle—it’ll make for a bunch of different and exciting "attractions" for kids (and even teens).

It sounds amazing. You wouldn’t happen to have a little spot left in your car? [:P]