Hi everyone,
I’m planning to spend about a week in the Amazon in April or May—the dates aren’t set yet—flying in and out of Manaus.
I’d love to hear about the must-see spots in Manaus besides the theater and the Amazon Museum.
After that, I’d like to take a boat trip on the Amazon or the Rio Negro to escape the city and find some peace for a 3- or 4-day trek in the forest.
I also saw that the town of Presidente Figueiredo is worth visiting for all the waterfalls nearby.
If you’ve been to Manaus and have any recommendations, I’d love to hear them.
Have a great day, everyone.
Hello,
After putting off my trip to Chile (and Argentina) for several years (protests plus Covid 19/20/21...), I’d love to know what the average cost is now for a journey from north to south? (Public transport and "ordinary" hotels) If you have any recent info, thanks for taking the time to reply...
😉 Best regards,
Cruzo.
After putting off my trip to Chile (and Argentina) for several years (protests plus Covid 19/20/21...), I’d love to know what the average cost is now for a journey from north to south? (Public transport and "ordinary" hotels) If you have any recent info, thanks for taking the time to reply...
😉 Best regards,
Cruzo.
Hi everyone,
We’re making a family dream come true: spending a month in Brazil from July 19 to August 20. We’ll land in Rio and spend 6 days there (we’ve finalized a home exchange for a lovely apartment in the Copacabana neighborhood). After that, we’re heading to Minas Gerais by rental car for 11 days (Tiradentes, Ouro Preto, and the Inhotim Institute), then the Costa Verde, and finally 2 days in São Paulo.
We’ll be traveling with our three kids, ages 17, 14, and 9, who are real travelers and good hikers. Goes hand in hand, right? 😄
For now, we’ve planned to visit Ilha Grande (4 days) and then Paraty and its surroundings (3 days). What do you think? Ilha Grande appealed to us for its hikes and beaches, but couldn’t we do that along Paraty’s coast? I’ve read mixed reviews about Ilha Grande...
Thanks for your tips, opinions, and anything else! !
We’re making a family dream come true: spending a month in Brazil from July 19 to August 20. We’ll land in Rio and spend 6 days there (we’ve finalized a home exchange for a lovely apartment in the Copacabana neighborhood). After that, we’re heading to Minas Gerais by rental car for 11 days (Tiradentes, Ouro Preto, and the Inhotim Institute), then the Costa Verde, and finally 2 days in São Paulo.
We’ll be traveling with our three kids, ages 17, 14, and 9, who are real travelers and good hikers. Goes hand in hand, right? 😄
For now, we’ve planned to visit Ilha Grande (4 days) and then Paraty and its surroundings (3 days). What do you think? Ilha Grande appealed to us for its hikes and beaches, but couldn’t we do that along Paraty’s coast? I’ve read mixed reviews about Ilha Grande...
Thanks for your tips, opinions, and anything else! !
Hi everyone, I’m restarting my travel reports with my 2023 trip that took me from Costa Rica to Suriname over a month and a half.
First stop: Costa Rica. I arrived in late September in San José, a city I know well and never linger in. As soon as I got off the early-morning flight, I headed to the domestic airport—just a 5-minute walk away—to catch a 45-minute flight to Puerto Limón on the Caribbean coast. The 40-minute flight in a small Cessna was fun, especially since we landed on a tiny airstrip right by the sea—it felt like landing on the beach, which immediately set the mood. Plus, I wasn’t keen on enduring the 4–5-hour bus ride to Cahuita, especially since large sections of the road were under renovation. In Cahuita (where I’ve been going every year since 2015), I stayed at Kenaki Lodge on Playa Grande. It’s a great lodge, about a 45-minute walk from Cahuita’s center, but you’re just 50 meters from the beach and usually have it all to yourself. The lodge is run by Béa, a Frenchwoman, and depending on the season, you can help release baby turtles on the beach. The room was 55 €, very spacious, and you can use the outdoor kitchen. I’d recommend it for anyone looking for peace and quiet and a private beach.
After 5 days there, I flew to Cartagena but didn’t stay overnight. Instead, I headed straight to Rincón del Mar, a 3-hour bus ride from CTG. I’d mostly heard about it from a friend who lives there and runs El Ché, a beachfront restaurant. Rincón del Mar is a tiny seaside village, very peaceful, with a pretty nice beach. There are lots of small hotels and restaurants, and it’s a spot that’s likely to grow quickly in the coming years. Note: there’s no ATM there, so you’ll need to withdraw cash in San Onofre, about 30 minutes away by moto-taxi. The round trip costs around 25,000 COP. That’s also where you catch the bus to Cartagena. For accommodations, rooms were roughly 70,000–90,000 COP, with a so-so value for the price. As for things to do, I’d recommend the tour that takes you to watch the sunset in front of Bird Island, followed by a swim in a lagoon with bioluminescent plankton. The excursion (if I remember correctly) cost around 90,000 COP.
After a week in Rincón del Mar, I headed back to Cartagena and decided to fly to Yopal to visit the Río Meta. In Yopal, you’ll need to go to the bus terminal (10 minutes by taxi from the airport). From there, I took a bus to Orocué (50,000 COP) for about a 4-hour trip—it felt endless because the road was in terrible condition. Orocué is a tiny town on the banks of the Río Meta, but it has all the essentials (hotels, restaurants, ATMs). It’s lovely to stroll along the river at sunset. There are a few small bars, the area is very natural, the sunsets are stunning, and when there are distant storms, it’s just breathtaking. For lodging, I stayed at Hotel Brisas de San Miguel. It wasn’t bad—fan-cooled room for 70,000 COP. There were quite a few mosquitoes. I spent 3 days in Orocué. If you want to swim, head to the bridge (the only one), Cano San Miguel, and on the right, there’s a swimming spot. With the heat, it’s a great way to cool off.
From Orocué, I took a fast *lancha* (boat) up the Río Meta to Puerto Carreño, in the Vichada department at the far end of Colombia. This brings you to the majestic Orinoco River, right across from Venezuela. The boat ride is long—10 hours—and costs about 60 €. We left around 6 AM, with a few stops for bathroom breaks and meals along the way. But you *must* book your spot 1–2 days in advance. To do that, go to the small square above the dock—there’s a "navigation office" there. The trip was long but enjoyable. I never get tired of river journeys.
I was happy to finally arrive in Puerto Carreño, a small border town with Venezuela. No surprise that half the population was Venezuelan. In Puerto Carreño, I stayed at Hotel Delfines del Orinoco. The room was 80,000 COP, decent, with A/C, and the best part was the pool. I spent 2 nights there. One thing you *must* do—morning and evening—is hike to the top of Cerro de la Bandera (the *cerros* are huge rock formations typical of the Orinoco region, and there are many in the area). From the summit, you get amazing 360° views of the savanna and jungle. Sunrise is especially incredible. The trail is well-marked—from downtown Puerto Carreño, it takes about 20 minutes.
Next, I spent 3 nights at Rancho Barú. About an hour by boat from Puerto Carreño, you get off at Casuarito, and someone from the lodge picks you up by motorcycle for a 30-minute ride. The ranch is in the middle of the savanna, with a river/rapids beach just a 5-minute walk away. You can also fish—bites come quickly. For the lodge, one night (room or hammock) with shared bathrooms, three meals included, one excursion, plus the round-trip motorcycle ride costs 245,000 COP. An extra night without an excursion is around 100,000 COP, but you need to let the lodge know in advance so they can prepare enough food—there’s absolutely nothing for miles around.
After those 3 great days at the ranch, I took a canoe to cross into Venezuela, since Casuarito is right across from Puerto Ayacucho. The crossing costs 10,000 COP, but I got shaken down by Venezuelan immigration, who invented a violation and made me pay $40 USD. Puerto Ayacucho didn’t inspire me much. The city felt sketchy, with many hotels closed. Dealing with currency exchange was the hardest part—you *must* bring cash (USD or Colombian pesos), know the exchange rate, and find someone with enough money to exchange with you. It took me at least 2 hours. I stayed in a decent hotel downtown for $20 USD a night, but I’ll admit that going out at night—even in Puerto Ayacucho—felt pretty dodgy. All the buildings have bars on the windows, and there weren’t many people outside. I didn’t linger and found my plans to continue south too complicated. The next day, I took a bus across the country to the Brazilian border at Santa Elena de Uairén. The trip took a day and a night, with countless military checkpoints where they made everyone get off, unload all the luggage, etc. Not exactly a fun ride.
Photos: - 2 sunrises near the Orocué dock - Storm over the savanna at Rancho Barú - View of the savanna and Orinoco near Casuarito - Photo taken during the Río Meta boat trip
First stop: Costa Rica. I arrived in late September in San José, a city I know well and never linger in. As soon as I got off the early-morning flight, I headed to the domestic airport—just a 5-minute walk away—to catch a 45-minute flight to Puerto Limón on the Caribbean coast. The 40-minute flight in a small Cessna was fun, especially since we landed on a tiny airstrip right by the sea—it felt like landing on the beach, which immediately set the mood. Plus, I wasn’t keen on enduring the 4–5-hour bus ride to Cahuita, especially since large sections of the road were under renovation. In Cahuita (where I’ve been going every year since 2015), I stayed at Kenaki Lodge on Playa Grande. It’s a great lodge, about a 45-minute walk from Cahuita’s center, but you’re just 50 meters from the beach and usually have it all to yourself. The lodge is run by Béa, a Frenchwoman, and depending on the season, you can help release baby turtles on the beach. The room was 55 €, very spacious, and you can use the outdoor kitchen. I’d recommend it for anyone looking for peace and quiet and a private beach.
After 5 days there, I flew to Cartagena but didn’t stay overnight. Instead, I headed straight to Rincón del Mar, a 3-hour bus ride from CTG. I’d mostly heard about it from a friend who lives there and runs El Ché, a beachfront restaurant. Rincón del Mar is a tiny seaside village, very peaceful, with a pretty nice beach. There are lots of small hotels and restaurants, and it’s a spot that’s likely to grow quickly in the coming years. Note: there’s no ATM there, so you’ll need to withdraw cash in San Onofre, about 30 minutes away by moto-taxi. The round trip costs around 25,000 COP. That’s also where you catch the bus to Cartagena. For accommodations, rooms were roughly 70,000–90,000 COP, with a so-so value for the price. As for things to do, I’d recommend the tour that takes you to watch the sunset in front of Bird Island, followed by a swim in a lagoon with bioluminescent plankton. The excursion (if I remember correctly) cost around 90,000 COP.
After a week in Rincón del Mar, I headed back to Cartagena and decided to fly to Yopal to visit the Río Meta. In Yopal, you’ll need to go to the bus terminal (10 minutes by taxi from the airport). From there, I took a bus to Orocué (50,000 COP) for about a 4-hour trip—it felt endless because the road was in terrible condition. Orocué is a tiny town on the banks of the Río Meta, but it has all the essentials (hotels, restaurants, ATMs). It’s lovely to stroll along the river at sunset. There are a few small bars, the area is very natural, the sunsets are stunning, and when there are distant storms, it’s just breathtaking. For lodging, I stayed at Hotel Brisas de San Miguel. It wasn’t bad—fan-cooled room for 70,000 COP. There were quite a few mosquitoes. I spent 3 days in Orocué. If you want to swim, head to the bridge (the only one), Cano San Miguel, and on the right, there’s a swimming spot. With the heat, it’s a great way to cool off.
From Orocué, I took a fast *lancha* (boat) up the Río Meta to Puerto Carreño, in the Vichada department at the far end of Colombia. This brings you to the majestic Orinoco River, right across from Venezuela. The boat ride is long—10 hours—and costs about 60 €. We left around 6 AM, with a few stops for bathroom breaks and meals along the way. But you *must* book your spot 1–2 days in advance. To do that, go to the small square above the dock—there’s a "navigation office" there. The trip was long but enjoyable. I never get tired of river journeys.
I was happy to finally arrive in Puerto Carreño, a small border town with Venezuela. No surprise that half the population was Venezuelan. In Puerto Carreño, I stayed at Hotel Delfines del Orinoco. The room was 80,000 COP, decent, with A/C, and the best part was the pool. I spent 2 nights there. One thing you *must* do—morning and evening—is hike to the top of Cerro de la Bandera (the *cerros* are huge rock formations typical of the Orinoco region, and there are many in the area). From the summit, you get amazing 360° views of the savanna and jungle. Sunrise is especially incredible. The trail is well-marked—from downtown Puerto Carreño, it takes about 20 minutes.
Next, I spent 3 nights at Rancho Barú. About an hour by boat from Puerto Carreño, you get off at Casuarito, and someone from the lodge picks you up by motorcycle for a 30-minute ride. The ranch is in the middle of the savanna, with a river/rapids beach just a 5-minute walk away. You can also fish—bites come quickly. For the lodge, one night (room or hammock) with shared bathrooms, three meals included, one excursion, plus the round-trip motorcycle ride costs 245,000 COP. An extra night without an excursion is around 100,000 COP, but you need to let the lodge know in advance so they can prepare enough food—there’s absolutely nothing for miles around.
After those 3 great days at the ranch, I took a canoe to cross into Venezuela, since Casuarito is right across from Puerto Ayacucho. The crossing costs 10,000 COP, but I got shaken down by Venezuelan immigration, who invented a violation and made me pay $40 USD. Puerto Ayacucho didn’t inspire me much. The city felt sketchy, with many hotels closed. Dealing with currency exchange was the hardest part—you *must* bring cash (USD or Colombian pesos), know the exchange rate, and find someone with enough money to exchange with you. It took me at least 2 hours. I stayed in a decent hotel downtown for $20 USD a night, but I’ll admit that going out at night—even in Puerto Ayacucho—felt pretty dodgy. All the buildings have bars on the windows, and there weren’t many people outside. I didn’t linger and found my plans to continue south too complicated. The next day, I took a bus across the country to the Brazilian border at Santa Elena de Uairén. The trip took a day and a night, with countless military checkpoints where they made everyone get off, unload all the luggage, etc. Not exactly a fun ride.
Photos: - 2 sunrises near the Orocué dock - Storm over the savanna at Rancho Barú - View of the savanna and Orinoco near Casuarito - Photo taken during the Río Meta boat trip
Hi everyone.
We’re heading to Brazil at the end of August for a month as a couple.
Could anyone help us find accommodation and particularly interesting spots along this legendary route?
We’ll be renting a car and plan to make 2 or 3 stops, but we prefer exploring on foot or by boat once we’re there.
I know that lodging is particularly expensive there and that access to nature is usually on private properties, but our budget is limited and comfort isn’t our priority.
Thanks for your replies.
Fred
IMPORTANT NOTICE for those planning to take a bus to another city, state, or destination from Salvador!
Starting January 20, 2026, the intercity bus station Rodoviária is changing its address! The Rodoviária is leaving the Iguatemi area and will now be located in ÁGUAS CLARAS (about twenty kilometers from downtown Salvador).
A brand-new station (the most modern in Brazil) has just been set up there, accessible by car/taxi/Uber/metro. Allow for much more transfer time (especially during rush hours), so leave early if you're heading to Chapada Diamantina or other Brazilian cities by bus.
Remember, there are also private transfers (even French-speaking ones) that can take you directly from your hotel in Salvador to your hotel in Chapada. Sure, it’ll be more expensive, but you’ll save on transfer time and comfort.
Tropical greetings from Salvador,
@ivanbahiaguide
Loyal member of the French-Speaking Brazil Forums for over 15 years already 😊 🇧🇷
Starting January 20, 2026, the intercity bus station Rodoviária is changing its address! The Rodoviária is leaving the Iguatemi area and will now be located in ÁGUAS CLARAS (about twenty kilometers from downtown Salvador).
A brand-new station (the most modern in Brazil) has just been set up there, accessible by car/taxi/Uber/metro. Allow for much more transfer time (especially during rush hours), so leave early if you're heading to Chapada Diamantina or other Brazilian cities by bus.
Remember, there are also private transfers (even French-speaking ones) that can take you directly from your hotel in Salvador to your hotel in Chapada. Sure, it’ll be more expensive, but you’ll save on transfer time and comfort.
Tropical greetings from Salvador,
@ivanbahiaguide
Loyal member of the French-Speaking Brazil Forums for over 15 years already 😊 🇧🇷
Hello, We're a family with three boys aged 8 to 14, and we'll be in Brazil next April. We land at GRU around 4 PM on a Saturday and want to head straight to Paraty.
I've seen several options:
Private taxi: Do you have any contacts for private drivers or companies that could transport all five of us directly from the airport and that I can book in advance? I’ve already reached out to a few, but the rates are really high.
Uber: I tested the app from France, but it doesn’t offer vehicles for 5 people (Uber XL). Is that the case locally too, or is it because I’m testing from France?
99app: I couldn’t install the app from France to test it.
Bus: Take a bus from the bus station, either directly in the evening (departures around 9 PM and 10:30 PM—7-hour trip) or the next morning. This isn’t my preferred option because I’d either have to take a late bus right after we arrive (and I’m not sure how safe the area is at night, based on what I’ve read) or book a hotel to go the next morning and lose a night.
Thanks for your help.
Private taxi: Do you have any contacts for private drivers or companies that could transport all five of us directly from the airport and that I can book in advance? I’ve already reached out to a few, but the rates are really high.
Uber: I tested the app from France, but it doesn’t offer vehicles for 5 people (Uber XL). Is that the case locally too, or is it because I’m testing from France?
99app: I couldn’t install the app from France to test it.
Bus: Take a bus from the bus station, either directly in the evening (departures around 9 PM and 10:30 PM—7-hour trip) or the next morning. This isn’t my preferred option because I’d either have to take a late bus right after we arrive (and I’m not sure how safe the area is at night, based on what I’ve read) or book a hotel to go the next morning and lose a night.
Thanks for your help.
Hello,
We’re thinking about our next destination for June 2026, and northern Brazil seems like a great option for that time of year.
We were considering a 15-day trip from Fortaleza to São Luís (or the other way around), but I’m worried it might not offer enough variety in terms of sights and landscapes. We were thinking of doing a trek in Lençóis Park, visiting Jericoacoara, the Parnaíba Delta, etc.).
The other option would be to take a domestic flight and add the Salvador de Bahia region and Chapada Diamantina, but that would require about 3 weeks.
Do you think exploring the coast between Fortaleza and São Luís is enough for a trip if we don’t kitesurf? Or is it better to combine this part of the country with another region (Salvador? The Amazon?)?
Thanks in advance for your advice.
Have a great day
We’re thinking about our next destination for June 2026, and northern Brazil seems like a great option for that time of year.
We were considering a 15-day trip from Fortaleza to São Luís (or the other way around), but I’m worried it might not offer enough variety in terms of sights and landscapes. We were thinking of doing a trek in Lençóis Park, visiting Jericoacoara, the Parnaíba Delta, etc.).
The other option would be to take a domestic flight and add the Salvador de Bahia region and Chapada Diamantina, but that would require about 3 weeks.
Do you think exploring the coast between Fortaleza and São Luís is enough for a trip if we don’t kitesurf? Or is it better to combine this part of the country with another region (Salvador? The Amazon?)?
Thanks in advance for your advice.
Have a great day
Hello everyone!
July 5, 2025: Argentina Update
As I do every month, here’s an overview of the situation in Argentina—useful if you’re planning to visit in the coming weeks!
Vibe, economy, general situation, tips for tourists, and more...
Latest news for anyone thinking of visiting Argentina this year:
- Mixed outlook
- Current economic and social situation in Argentina
- Our friend Cristina
- What’s new for tourists?
What’s new? The parallel exchange rate and the official BNA rate are almost the same—just 2% higher for the parallel rate, which won’t really change your trip! Pay as much as possible in cash—discounts are still common at bars, restaurants, and even hotels. Even if it’s not advertised, always ask! You can still withdraw cash via Western Union, as before. Paying with a Visa or other card is still possible, and the CCL rate is even above the parallel rate today, meaning +3% compared to the official rate. However, you won’t get discounts when paying by card.
As always, **do not** withdraw money from ATMs—the fees in Argentina are still outrageous. Also, don’t forget that winter break in Argentina starts today, Friday, July 4, in 10 provinces for two weeks, until Sunday, July 20. On Friday, July 11, it begins in 9 more provinces until Sunday, July 27, and finally, in the last 4 provinces (including Buenos Aires and the city of Buenos Aires—the most populated), it runs from Friday, July 18, until Sunday, August 3. In short: 3 zones, each with two weeks off, stretching over 4 weeks total.
In previous years, I’d have warned you: “Be careful if you’re traveling, as buses, flights, and often accommodations are at high occupancy.” But this year, poorer and middle-class Argentines aren’t traveling because “No hay plata,” and those who can afford it are heading to Brazil, Chile, or even Miami for cheaper parties and shopping—Brazil can be twice as affordable! So, in Argentina, the top destinations for these staggered winter breaks are Bariloche (first place), followed by Ushuaia, San Martín de los Andes, and Villa La Angostura. Mendoza comes in fifth, then El Calafate, and finally Salta and Córdoba. As you can see, wealthy Argentines travel in winter to see snow—it’s chic to be cold and go skiing! Bariloche is the most expensive, while Córdoba is the cheapest. Same services, for example, a flight plus 7 days plus a hotel in the same category: Bariloche is 2.5 to 3 times pricier than Córdoba or even the sierras of Córdoba. Yet, there’s plenty of availability. Most people don’t have the money (and you might say Patagonian winter destinations aren’t exactly middle-class friendly either), but with fewer Brazilians or Chileans taking advantage of “cheap” Argentina, space is freed up. Brazilians alone used to make up 50% of Argentina’s international tourism—so there are suddenly fewer people on flights and in hotels! For these destinations, hoteliers are hoping for (at best) a 70% occupancy rate, though 50% would already make them happy. Why? 1- Lack of foreign tourists, 2- The middle class preferring to visit the old aunt in Posadas (to show family loyalty and spend as little as possible),
3- The wealthy opting for Bariloche, Punta Cana, Búzios, or Miami, which drastically lowers domestic occupancy rates and increases the outflow of USD abroad. +66% of Argentine tourists traveled abroad in the first five months of 2025. Six million Argentines vacationed abroad between January 1 and May 1, 2025.
To read the full article, check it out here: https://www.petitherge.com/2025/07/05-juillet-2025-situation-de-l-argentine.html
What’s new? The parallel exchange rate and the official BNA rate are almost the same—just 2% higher for the parallel rate, which won’t really change your trip! Pay as much as possible in cash—discounts are still common at bars, restaurants, and even hotels. Even if it’s not advertised, always ask! You can still withdraw cash via Western Union, as before. Paying with a Visa or other card is still possible, and the CCL rate is even above the parallel rate today, meaning +3% compared to the official rate. However, you won’t get discounts when paying by card.
As always, **do not** withdraw money from ATMs—the fees in Argentina are still outrageous. Also, don’t forget that winter break in Argentina starts today, Friday, July 4, in 10 provinces for two weeks, until Sunday, July 20. On Friday, July 11, it begins in 9 more provinces until Sunday, July 27, and finally, in the last 4 provinces (including Buenos Aires and the city of Buenos Aires—the most populated), it runs from Friday, July 18, until Sunday, August 3. In short: 3 zones, each with two weeks off, stretching over 4 weeks total.
In previous years, I’d have warned you: “Be careful if you’re traveling, as buses, flights, and often accommodations are at high occupancy.” But this year, poorer and middle-class Argentines aren’t traveling because “No hay plata,” and those who can afford it are heading to Brazil, Chile, or even Miami for cheaper parties and shopping—Brazil can be twice as affordable! So, in Argentina, the top destinations for these staggered winter breaks are Bariloche (first place), followed by Ushuaia, San Martín de los Andes, and Villa La Angostura. Mendoza comes in fifth, then El Calafate, and finally Salta and Córdoba. As you can see, wealthy Argentines travel in winter to see snow—it’s chic to be cold and go skiing! Bariloche is the most expensive, while Córdoba is the cheapest. Same services, for example, a flight plus 7 days plus a hotel in the same category: Bariloche is 2.5 to 3 times pricier than Córdoba or even the sierras of Córdoba. Yet, there’s plenty of availability. Most people don’t have the money (and you might say Patagonian winter destinations aren’t exactly middle-class friendly either), but with fewer Brazilians or Chileans taking advantage of “cheap” Argentina, space is freed up. Brazilians alone used to make up 50% of Argentina’s international tourism—so there are suddenly fewer people on flights and in hotels! For these destinations, hoteliers are hoping for (at best) a 70% occupancy rate, though 50% would already make them happy. Why? 1- Lack of foreign tourists, 2- The middle class preferring to visit the old aunt in Posadas (to show family loyalty and spend as little as possible),
3- The wealthy opting for Bariloche, Punta Cana, Búzios, or Miami, which drastically lowers domestic occupancy rates and increases the outflow of USD abroad. +66% of Argentine tourists traveled abroad in the first five months of 2025. Six million Argentines vacationed abroad between January 1 and May 1, 2025.
To read the full article, check it out here: https://www.petitherge.com/2025/07/05-juillet-2025-situation-de-l-argentine.html
Hi everyone,
I’m planning my trip to Brazil in March 2025 (finally!) and I’d love to hear your thoughts on Ilha Grande and Paraty. We’ll be arriving from Rio and departing from Paraty (heading to São Paulo). How can we best organize these transfers—can we book the different transports on the spot? How much time is ideal to stay in these two places to enjoy them without doing long hikes? Do you have an estimated budget? Thanks for your feedback! Dominique
I’m planning my trip to Brazil in March 2025 (finally!) and I’d love to hear your thoughts on Ilha Grande and Paraty. We’ll be arriving from Rio and departing from Paraty (heading to São Paulo). How can we best organize these transfers—can we book the different transports on the spot? How much time is ideal to stay in these two places to enjoy them without doing long hikes? Do you have an estimated budget? Thanks for your feedback! Dominique
Hi everyone,
I’d love to get your thoughts on the itinerary we’re planning for this summer (August) with our three older teens. We’ve booked our round-trip flight from Lyon to Rio. Originally, we were thinking of heading down to Paraty / Ilha Grande... but after checking, the water temperature seems a bit too cool, so we’d prefer to go to Bahia state for a bit more warmth. Our interests: discovering the people and cities, enjoying the beach and relaxation, a few short hikes, etc.
What do you think of this itinerary? Too much time lost in transit?
Day Stop J1 Flight J2 Early morning arrival in Rio J3 Rio J4 Rio J5 Rio J6 Flight to Foz do Iguaçu J7 Foz do Iguaçu J8 Foz do Iguaçu J9 Flight to Salvador J10 Salvador J11 Salvador J12 Ilha de Tinharé: Morro de São Paulo J13 Ilha de Tinharé: Morro de São Paulo J14 Ilha de Tinharé: Morro de São Paulo J15 Ilha de Boipeba J16 Ilha de Boipeba J17 Ilha de Boipeba J18 Ilha de Boipeba to Salvador J19 Salvador to Rio J20 Flight J21 Arrival in France Thanks so much for your help!!!! Flo
I’d love to get your thoughts on the itinerary we’re planning for this summer (August) with our three older teens. We’ve booked our round-trip flight from Lyon to Rio. Originally, we were thinking of heading down to Paraty / Ilha Grande... but after checking, the water temperature seems a bit too cool, so we’d prefer to go to Bahia state for a bit more warmth. Our interests: discovering the people and cities, enjoying the beach and relaxation, a few short hikes, etc.
What do you think of this itinerary? Too much time lost in transit?
Day Stop J1 Flight J2 Early morning arrival in Rio J3 Rio J4 Rio J5 Rio J6 Flight to Foz do Iguaçu J7 Foz do Iguaçu J8 Foz do Iguaçu J9 Flight to Salvador J10 Salvador J11 Salvador J12 Ilha de Tinharé: Morro de São Paulo J13 Ilha de Tinharé: Morro de São Paulo J14 Ilha de Tinharé: Morro de São Paulo J15 Ilha de Boipeba J16 Ilha de Boipeba J17 Ilha de Boipeba J18 Ilha de Boipeba to Salvador J19 Salvador to Rio J20 Flight J21 Arrival in France Thanks so much for your help!!!! Flo
Hi everyone,
With a friend, we’re planning a big trip to South America from January to mid-April 2026.
Our planned itinerary:
Argentina Chile Brazil (for Rio’s Carnival) Peru Then heading to Costa Rica to wrap up the trip.
We don’t have a precise route yet, but here are the key stops we’d absolutely love to include:
Iguazu Falls (Foz de Iguaçu) Patagonia (especially the Perito Moreno Glacier) Atacama Desert Rio Carnival Machu Picchu
This is our first time taking a trip of this scale, and we’d love some advice from more experienced travelers. To narrow it down, here are the main things we’re worried about:
1. Travel agency
For a trip this big, do you think a travel agency is helpful, or is it better to organize everything ourselves? If so, which ones would you recommend for a tight budget? We were considering G Adventures for parts of the trip. Any feedback on them?
2. Practical tips and money
For luggage, would you recommend a small rolling suitcase or a big backpack?
About payments: Is it easy to pay by card, or is cash the way to go? If cash is king, how do you manage your budget—do you use services like Western Union for transfers? Currency exchange: Is it easy to exchange money on the spot? Which places are best for that? For costs, what’s a reasonable monthly budget for average travelers?
3. Accommodation
Is it easy to find hotels/hostels on the fly, or is it better to book a few days/weeks in advance (especially in high season)?
4. Transportation
Same question for buses: Can you buy tickets the same day, or should you book a few days/weeks (or even months) ahead for certain routes? Any recommendations for reliable companies between these countries and within them?
5. Phone service
How do you handle mobile networks, especially when crossing borders? Do you need a SIM card per country? Are there plans that cover multiple countries? Are eSIMs available? What’s the best way to set it up? Thanks in advance for your tips and experiences! We’re all ears for any great tips, hacks, or pitfalls to avoid.
Argentina Chile Brazil (for Rio’s Carnival) Peru Then heading to Costa Rica to wrap up the trip.
We don’t have a precise route yet, but here are the key stops we’d absolutely love to include:
Iguazu Falls (Foz de Iguaçu) Patagonia (especially the Perito Moreno Glacier) Atacama Desert Rio Carnival Machu Picchu
This is our first time taking a trip of this scale, and we’d love some advice from more experienced travelers. To narrow it down, here are the main things we’re worried about:
1. Travel agency
For a trip this big, do you think a travel agency is helpful, or is it better to organize everything ourselves? If so, which ones would you recommend for a tight budget? We were considering G Adventures for parts of the trip. Any feedback on them?
2. Practical tips and money
For luggage, would you recommend a small rolling suitcase or a big backpack?
About payments: Is it easy to pay by card, or is cash the way to go? If cash is king, how do you manage your budget—do you use services like Western Union for transfers? Currency exchange: Is it easy to exchange money on the spot? Which places are best for that? For costs, what’s a reasonable monthly budget for average travelers?
3. Accommodation
Is it easy to find hotels/hostels on the fly, or is it better to book a few days/weeks in advance (especially in high season)?
4. Transportation
Same question for buses: Can you buy tickets the same day, or should you book a few days/weeks (or even months) ahead for certain routes? Any recommendations for reliable companies between these countries and within them?
5. Phone service
How do you handle mobile networks, especially when crossing borders? Do you need a SIM card per country? Are there plans that cover multiple countries? Are eSIMs available? What’s the best way to set it up? Thanks in advance for your tips and experiences! We’re all ears for any great tips, hacks, or pitfalls to avoid.
Hello,
How good it feels to be back on this forum!!!!
Today, we started looking into traveling in April 2026, either to Chile or Argentina. It’s our first trip to South America. I’ve only been to French Guiana once, about ten years ago, for the space center. In recent years, we’ve usually gone to Asia during the spring holidays.
Based on the flight tickets I’ve found, two arrival and departure options are available: - Arriving in Buenos Aires and departing from Salvador de Bahia. - Arriving in Santiago, Chile, and still departing from Salvador de Bahia.
We’re considering flying business class on the outbound flight so we arrive a bit more rested. The travel class might influence our choice between itinerary A or B.
We’d like to spend two days at Iguazu Falls (both the Argentine and Brazilian sides), which explains the departure from Brazil.
Initially, we thought about arriving in Buenos Aires and staying in Argentina before heading to Iguazu. However, the itinerary forces us to go back through Buenos Aires.
We love nature. The El Calafate region seems to offer beautiful, easily accessible landscapes. Maybe there’s another area we should prioritize.
Here are two itineraries—what do you think? I know it’s short, but we can’t add any more days. We’ll have to make it work.
Option A: D1(Sat): Flight from France to Buenos Aires – arrival at 9:55 PM. D2(Sun): Visit Buenos Aires D3(Mon): Visit Buenos Aires. D4(Tue): Flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate – 3.5-hour flight – arrival around midday. D4(Tue) – until D11(Tue) – visit the El Calafate region: El Calafate / 121km / El Chaltén / 12km / Mount Fitz Roy / 4km / Cerro Torre Mountain / 132km / Perito Moreno Glacier / 57km / El Calafate. D11(Tue): Flight to Buenos Aires D12(Wed): Morning flight to Iguazu (Argentine side) – flight at 6:40 AM or 8:10 AM – 2-hour flight. D13(Thu): Half-day on the Brazilian side – flight around 7:00 PM to Salvador de Bahia. D14(Fri): Visit Salvador de Bahia (downtown) D15(Sat): Morning visit + midday departure for the airport – flight at 5:45 PM from Salvador de Bahia D16(Sun): Arrival in France.
This itinerary forces us to pass through Buenos Aires twice.
Option B: D0(Fri): Flight from France to Santiago, Chile – departure at 11:20 PM from CDG. D1(Sat): Arrival at 7:45 AM in Santiago, Chile – hotel + city visit. D2(Sun): Visit Santiago, Chile D3(Mon): Departure for Puerto Natales, Punta Arenas, or El Calafate – to be decided. There’s about a 3-hour flight. We need to check the drop-off fees if we pick up the car in Chile and return it in Argentina – see ADEL RENT A CAR. D3(Mon) – until D10(Mon) – visit the El Calafate region: El Calafate / 121km / El Chaltén / 12km / Mount Fitz Roy / 4km / Cerro Torre Mountain / 132km / Perito Moreno Glacier / 57km / El Calafate. D10(Mon): 3.5-hour flight + visit Buenos Aires. D11(Tue): Visit Buenos Aires D12(Wed): Morning flight to Iguazu (Argentine side) – flight at 6:40 AM or 8:10 AM – 2-hour flight. D13(Thu): Half-day on the Brazilian side – flight around 7:00 PM to Salvador de Bahia. D14(Fri): Visit Salvador de Bahia (downtown) D15(Sat): Morning visit + midday departure for the airport – flight at 5:45 PM from Salvador de Bahia D16(Sun): Arrival in France.
The end of the itinerary is the same. This option avoids passing through Buenos Aires twice. Thanks for your feedback.
Today, we started looking into traveling in April 2026, either to Chile or Argentina. It’s our first trip to South America. I’ve only been to French Guiana once, about ten years ago, for the space center. In recent years, we’ve usually gone to Asia during the spring holidays.
Based on the flight tickets I’ve found, two arrival and departure options are available: - Arriving in Buenos Aires and departing from Salvador de Bahia. - Arriving in Santiago, Chile, and still departing from Salvador de Bahia.
We’re considering flying business class on the outbound flight so we arrive a bit more rested. The travel class might influence our choice between itinerary A or B.
We’d like to spend two days at Iguazu Falls (both the Argentine and Brazilian sides), which explains the departure from Brazil.
Initially, we thought about arriving in Buenos Aires and staying in Argentina before heading to Iguazu. However, the itinerary forces us to go back through Buenos Aires.
We love nature. The El Calafate region seems to offer beautiful, easily accessible landscapes. Maybe there’s another area we should prioritize.
Here are two itineraries—what do you think? I know it’s short, but we can’t add any more days. We’ll have to make it work.
Option A: D1(Sat): Flight from France to Buenos Aires – arrival at 9:55 PM. D2(Sun): Visit Buenos Aires D3(Mon): Visit Buenos Aires. D4(Tue): Flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate – 3.5-hour flight – arrival around midday. D4(Tue) – until D11(Tue) – visit the El Calafate region: El Calafate / 121km / El Chaltén / 12km / Mount Fitz Roy / 4km / Cerro Torre Mountain / 132km / Perito Moreno Glacier / 57km / El Calafate. D11(Tue): Flight to Buenos Aires D12(Wed): Morning flight to Iguazu (Argentine side) – flight at 6:40 AM or 8:10 AM – 2-hour flight. D13(Thu): Half-day on the Brazilian side – flight around 7:00 PM to Salvador de Bahia. D14(Fri): Visit Salvador de Bahia (downtown) D15(Sat): Morning visit + midday departure for the airport – flight at 5:45 PM from Salvador de Bahia D16(Sun): Arrival in France.
This itinerary forces us to pass through Buenos Aires twice.
Option B: D0(Fri): Flight from France to Santiago, Chile – departure at 11:20 PM from CDG. D1(Sat): Arrival at 7:45 AM in Santiago, Chile – hotel + city visit. D2(Sun): Visit Santiago, Chile D3(Mon): Departure for Puerto Natales, Punta Arenas, or El Calafate – to be decided. There’s about a 3-hour flight. We need to check the drop-off fees if we pick up the car in Chile and return it in Argentina – see ADEL RENT A CAR. D3(Mon) – until D10(Mon) – visit the El Calafate region: El Calafate / 121km / El Chaltén / 12km / Mount Fitz Roy / 4km / Cerro Torre Mountain / 132km / Perito Moreno Glacier / 57km / El Calafate. D10(Mon): 3.5-hour flight + visit Buenos Aires. D11(Tue): Visit Buenos Aires D12(Wed): Morning flight to Iguazu (Argentine side) – flight at 6:40 AM or 8:10 AM – 2-hour flight. D13(Thu): Half-day on the Brazilian side – flight around 7:00 PM to Salvador de Bahia. D14(Fri): Visit Salvador de Bahia (downtown) D15(Sat): Morning visit + midday departure for the airport – flight at 5:45 PM from Salvador de Bahia D16(Sun): Arrival in France.
The end of the itinerary is the same. This option avoids passing through Buenos Aires twice. Thanks for your feedback.
Hi everyone,
Next April, I’m planning a trip (the 1st) to Brazil. I’ll have 12 days there (not counting the 13th day for the return). I’ll arrive on 22/04 in the early evening in Rio de Janeiro. The return flight is from São Paulo on 04/05 in the afternoon. I know 12 days is very little for such a big country, which is why I’ll focus on a relatively small area: the southeast (though "small" is relative!). I’ve started mapping out the main stops for my trip, which would be: - Rio de Janeiro: 4 to 5 days? - Ilha Grande and maybe Paraty: 2 to 3 days - Iguazu Falls: Brazilian and Argentinian sides: 2 days - São Paulo: 1 to 2 days
What do you think? Is this reasonable? There are about 250/260 km between Rio and Paraty. I’d like to make the trip by rental car. What do you think? A car is definitely much more practical and faster than the bus. 12/13 days is short—I can’t afford to lose too much time in transit. To get to Ilha Grande, I understand there’s a ferry that shuttles between the mainland and the island. From which city can you take the ferry? Mangaratiba? Conceição de Jacareí? Angra dos Reis? If I arrive by rental car, where can I park it? I think cars are banned on the island, right? That’s where I’m at with my planning. So many questions! 😕 A big thank you to anyone who takes the time to read my post and shares their valuable tips! 🙂
Next April, I’m planning a trip (the 1st) to Brazil. I’ll have 12 days there (not counting the 13th day for the return). I’ll arrive on 22/04 in the early evening in Rio de Janeiro. The return flight is from São Paulo on 04/05 in the afternoon. I know 12 days is very little for such a big country, which is why I’ll focus on a relatively small area: the southeast (though "small" is relative!). I’ve started mapping out the main stops for my trip, which would be: - Rio de Janeiro: 4 to 5 days? - Ilha Grande and maybe Paraty: 2 to 3 days - Iguazu Falls: Brazilian and Argentinian sides: 2 days - São Paulo: 1 to 2 days
What do you think? Is this reasonable? There are about 250/260 km between Rio and Paraty. I’d like to make the trip by rental car. What do you think? A car is definitely much more practical and faster than the bus. 12/13 days is short—I can’t afford to lose too much time in transit. To get to Ilha Grande, I understand there’s a ferry that shuttles between the mainland and the island. From which city can you take the ferry? Mangaratiba? Conceição de Jacareí? Angra dos Reis? If I arrive by rental car, where can I park it? I think cars are banned on the island, right? That’s where I’m at with my planning. So many questions! 😕 A big thank you to anyone who takes the time to read my post and shares their valuable tips! 🙂
Hi, I’m heading to Brazil soon and wanted to know the price of drinks in restaurants/hotels—like wine, beers, or cocktails—just to budget. Also, is there any risk with ice cubes? Thanks!
Hello everyone,
I'm just starting to plan a two-week trip I'd like to take with my wife in early May.
This trip would include the Atacama Desert, which I was lucky enough to visit alone once and would love to experience again with her.
But I'd like to add one or two other places to visit, keeping in mind that we're much more into nature than cities.
I was thinking about part of adjacent Bolivia... but since we'll have already seen quite a few stunning high-altitude lakes around Atacama, what would be some interesting and very different spots?
We would have loved to include Peru as well, but it might be tricky to combine in just two weeks.
I'll go through the many posts on this forum, but if any of you have some tempting ideas for this time of year (late April - early May), I'm all ears.
Thanks! :)
Hello,
For our trip in September 2025 from mid-September to early October (3 weeks), we’ve planned 8 days in San Pedro, then a transit night in Santiago, 8 days in Chilean Patagonia, and 3 days for Santiago/Valparaíso before heading back. Is it possible to easily explore with a rental car from a lodge based in Puerto Natales, including visiting Torres del Paine National Park? Or does that mean too much driving in a day, or would it be better to plan an overnight stay in the park or nearby?
We applied for our international driver’s permit in January 2025 for September, hoping to get it in time—I checked the forum about this. Regarding the car rental, do we really need a credit card (not debit) in the main driver’s name for the deposit?
How far in advance should we book entry tickets to the national parks for this period?
Best regards,
Odile
For our trip in September 2025 from mid-September to early October (3 weeks), we’ve planned 8 days in San Pedro, then a transit night in Santiago, 8 days in Chilean Patagonia, and 3 days for Santiago/Valparaíso before heading back. Is it possible to easily explore with a rental car from a lodge based in Puerto Natales, including visiting Torres del Paine National Park? Or does that mean too much driving in a day, or would it be better to plan an overnight stay in the park or nearby?
We applied for our international driver’s permit in January 2025 for September, hoping to get it in time—I checked the forum about this. Regarding the car rental, do we really need a credit card (not debit) in the main driver’s name for the deposit?
How far in advance should we book entry tickets to the national parks for this period?
Best regards,
Odile
Hi,
After reading a lot of pretty scary reviews about Retiro bus station in Buenos Aires, does anyone have any experience to share? Is it still doable during the day to catch or arrive from a bus?
Is it okay to walk to the metro afterward, or is it better to take a taxi/Uber/something else right away?
Hi everyone, it’s been a while since I last posted!
First time in South America for me, my wife, and our 7-year-old son. I’ve put together this itinerary and would love to hear your thoughts:
Bogotá 28/07 – 30/07: Arrival. Which neighborhood and outings would you recommend? Flight to
2 Filandia 30/07 – 03/08: (255 €). Waterfalls and horseback riding, Cocora Valley, Hiking, Nearby villages. Flight to 3 Tayrona 03/08 – 07/08: Hotel La Casablanca
Hike with Tierra Nevada and the Kogui village (any feedback?). Return by inner tube for the little one. Short night hike. Second hike to La Piscina, etc., return by 🐎.
4 Cartagena 07/08 – 10/08: Air-conditioned bus. Staying in Getsemaní? Mangroves & the Castle, exploring the city.
5 Bogotá 10/08 – 12/08
Feel free to share your feedback! Have a great day!
Seb
First time in South America for me, my wife, and our 7-year-old son. I’ve put together this itinerary and would love to hear your thoughts:
Bogotá 28/07 – 30/07: Arrival. Which neighborhood and outings would you recommend? Flight to
2 Filandia 30/07 – 03/08: (255 €). Waterfalls and horseback riding, Cocora Valley, Hiking, Nearby villages. Flight to 3 Tayrona 03/08 – 07/08: Hotel La Casablanca
Hike with Tierra Nevada and the Kogui village (any feedback?). Return by inner tube for the little one. Short night hike. Second hike to La Piscina, etc., return by 🐎.
4 Cartagena 07/08 – 10/08: Air-conditioned bus. Staying in Getsemaní? Mangroves & the Castle, exploring the city.
5 Bogotá 10/08 – 12/08
Feel free to share your feedback! Have a great day!
Seb
Hello,
We’re arriving at Rio Galeão on October 10th at 4:40 PM. We’ve booked a hotel near Ipanema.
I’ve seen there are several options to get to Ipanema—bus plus metro, taxis—but I haven’t found any shuttle bus. Could you tell me if one exists and, if so, where to catch it at the airport?
Thanks in advance
Everything You Need to Know About Argentina’s Currency Exchange Maze (2026 Edition)
Hi fellow travelers,
Packing your bags for Buenos Aires? Watch out—here, money is a science almost as complex as the dance steps in a tango!
As of March 2026, the situation has shifted dramatically: the "Blue" (parallel) rate is now neck-and-neck with the official rate. To save you from losing your hard-earned euros in bureaucratic mazes or "disastrous" exchange rates, I’ve laced up my reporter boots and hit the famous Calle Florida for you.
In my latest video (and the accompanying article), I take you behind the scenes of currency exchange:
Arbolitos and Cuevas: Who are they, and can you still trust them? The Rate Showdown: Why Banco Nación is currently the worst place for your savings. Western Union: Why it’s often your best ally right now. Cash or Card? The little secret to getting an instant 10–15% discount at restaurants or hotels. The Bill Trap: Why your 500 € notes or stained dollars might stay in your wallet.
Argentina changes fast—*very* fast (by the end of March, today’s advice might already be old news!). So don’t leave without checking the market’s pulse.
Check out all my tips in the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKmKFux4fpQ
And remember: in Argentina, don’t exchange money on weekends—unless you want your cash to melt like snow in the sun!
Safe travels, and see you on the road! Hergé
Packing your bags for Buenos Aires? Watch out—here, money is a science almost as complex as the dance steps in a tango!
As of March 2026, the situation has shifted dramatically: the "Blue" (parallel) rate is now neck-and-neck with the official rate. To save you from losing your hard-earned euros in bureaucratic mazes or "disastrous" exchange rates, I’ve laced up my reporter boots and hit the famous Calle Florida for you.
In my latest video (and the accompanying article), I take you behind the scenes of currency exchange:
Arbolitos and Cuevas: Who are they, and can you still trust them? The Rate Showdown: Why Banco Nación is currently the worst place for your savings. Western Union: Why it’s often your best ally right now. Cash or Card? The little secret to getting an instant 10–15% discount at restaurants or hotels. The Bill Trap: Why your 500 € notes or stained dollars might stay in your wallet.
Argentina changes fast—*very* fast (by the end of March, today’s advice might already be old news!). So don’t leave without checking the market’s pulse.
Check out all my tips in the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKmKFux4fpQ
And remember: in Argentina, don’t exchange money on weekends—unless you want your cash to melt like snow in the sun!
Safe travels, and see you on the road! Hergé
A few friends and I are planning to explore the northern shore of Lake Titicaca, making stops using local buses or collectivos. The route starts in Huancane, passes through places like Moho and Conima (on the Peruvian side), then crosses the border and continues into Bolivia via spots like Escoma, Ancoraines, Achacachi, and Huarina. I can’t find any info on transportation between these towns. It also seems there are no listed hotels or other types of accommodations.
Personally, I’ve already visited several places on the southern shore of the lake.
Questions: Is this less touristy route along the northern shore—compared to the southern route via Unguyo and Copacabana—worth it? Are there buses that cover the northern shore in both Peru and Bolivia? What accommodations do you know of along this route? Alternatively, is it possible to rent a car in Puno to circle the entire lake, and which reliable agencies would you recommend? Thanks for your suggestions! 😉
Personally, I’ve already visited several places on the southern shore of the lake.
Questions: Is this less touristy route along the northern shore—compared to the southern route via Unguyo and Copacabana—worth it? Are there buses that cover the northern shore in both Peru and Bolivia? What accommodations do you know of along this route? Alternatively, is it possible to rent a car in Puno to circle the entire lake, and which reliable agencies would you recommend? Thanks for your suggestions! 😉
Hi everyone! I’m looking for accommodation in these three destinations, with a budget of 100 € per person max including breakfast. I’d prefer places by the water for the first two spots and somewhere halfway between the main sights for Iguazu. Could you help me out? Thanks! 😊
Hi,
I’d love to spend a night in the park to enjoy it without rushing, but I’m shocked by the prices and the poor quality of the accommodations I’ve found on Booking. Are there any other more reasonable options on-site (aside from tents and hammocks, which aren’t for us...)? Also, is it risky not to book ahead for a trip in March? Thanks for your feedback!
Hello,
I’ll be in ARICA in northern Chile at the end of May 2026 and want to get to TACNA. Are there taxis, buses, or collectivos that run the border crossing route?
After that, bus to AREQUIPA (Peru): any bus company you’d recommend?
I’ll be in ARICA in northern Chile at the end of May 2026 and want to get to TACNA. Are there taxis, buses, or collectivos that run the border crossing route?
After that, bus to AREQUIPA (Peru): any bus company you’d recommend?
Hi everyone, here’s a little trip report from San José del Guaviare, in the Guaviare department of Colombia.
First, the journey: an overnight bus from Bogotá. The bus terminal is a 20-minute taxi ride from the airport (30,000 COP). The bus company that goes down to San José is Flota Macarena, located in sector 2 of the terminal. The bus terminal is big, with plenty of places to eat and lots of little shops. The bus seats are pretty small but manageable—comfortable enough. We left at 10:30 PM and arrived around 7:00 AM the next morning.
First thing to note: the center of San José, right by the river, is really dirty, noisy, and not very pleasant. We stayed at Hotel Malecon, by the river, where the Malecon promenade is supposed to be the nice spot to walk along the river. Well, no—it’s completely abandoned, with trash everywhere. The hotel itself is in what we nicknamed the "scrap metal district," since that’s pretty much all you see—scrap yards and garages. Not exactly pleasant and kind of sketchy at first glance. A room with AC and a balcony at Hotel Malecon costs 120,000 COP per night. For one night, it was fine since we hadn’t booked anything in advance. After that, we moved to an Airbnb in the neighborhood with the soccer stadium—a really nice and quiet area. The little tip here is that there’s a pool behind the stadium—8,000 COP to swim, and there’s a bar right across the street. Honestly, it’s great to have a place to cool off because it was *really* hot in San José.
Now, let’s talk about the main attraction here: the natural sites. We visited Puerta de Orión (free entry, but the guide—mandatory—costs 10,000 COP per person), the natural pools (15,000 COP entry), Balneario La Lindosa (5,000 COP to swim), and Las Delicias waterfall (10,000 COP)—that last one was our favorite. The sites are really cool, and I’d definitely recommend visiting them. It’s pure nature out there.
For accommodations, a lot of places are located outside San José, near the tourist sites. At first, we wanted to stay out there, but without a car, it’s a real hassle. So if you’re not driving, stick to San José.
Getting to all these sites by taxi costs around 30,000 COP one way, except for Las Delicias waterfall, which is farther away—70,000 COP one way. Taxis within the urban area of San José cost 6,000 COP. The bus from San José to Villavicencio with Flota Macarena costs 78,000 COP and takes between 5 and 6 hours.
To wrap up, our 5 days in San José were really great. We were pleasantly surprised by how friendly the people there are—it really stands out.
So if you’re looking for a spot that’s still off the mass-tourism radar, come here! It’s nice, and there are plenty of other sites we didn’t get to see.
First, the journey: an overnight bus from Bogotá. The bus terminal is a 20-minute taxi ride from the airport (30,000 COP). The bus company that goes down to San José is Flota Macarena, located in sector 2 of the terminal. The bus terminal is big, with plenty of places to eat and lots of little shops. The bus seats are pretty small but manageable—comfortable enough. We left at 10:30 PM and arrived around 7:00 AM the next morning.
First thing to note: the center of San José, right by the river, is really dirty, noisy, and not very pleasant. We stayed at Hotel Malecon, by the river, where the Malecon promenade is supposed to be the nice spot to walk along the river. Well, no—it’s completely abandoned, with trash everywhere. The hotel itself is in what we nicknamed the "scrap metal district," since that’s pretty much all you see—scrap yards and garages. Not exactly pleasant and kind of sketchy at first glance. A room with AC and a balcony at Hotel Malecon costs 120,000 COP per night. For one night, it was fine since we hadn’t booked anything in advance. After that, we moved to an Airbnb in the neighborhood with the soccer stadium—a really nice and quiet area. The little tip here is that there’s a pool behind the stadium—8,000 COP to swim, and there’s a bar right across the street. Honestly, it’s great to have a place to cool off because it was *really* hot in San José.
Now, let’s talk about the main attraction here: the natural sites. We visited Puerta de Orión (free entry, but the guide—mandatory—costs 10,000 COP per person), the natural pools (15,000 COP entry), Balneario La Lindosa (5,000 COP to swim), and Las Delicias waterfall (10,000 COP)—that last one was our favorite. The sites are really cool, and I’d definitely recommend visiting them. It’s pure nature out there.
For accommodations, a lot of places are located outside San José, near the tourist sites. At first, we wanted to stay out there, but without a car, it’s a real hassle. So if you’re not driving, stick to San José.
Getting to all these sites by taxi costs around 30,000 COP one way, except for Las Delicias waterfall, which is farther away—70,000 COP one way. Taxis within the urban area of San José cost 6,000 COP. The bus from San José to Villavicencio with Flota Macarena costs 78,000 COP and takes between 5 and 6 hours.
To wrap up, our 5 days in San José were really great. We were pleasantly surprised by how friendly the people there are—it really stands out.
So if you’re looking for a spot that’s still off the mass-tourism radar, come here! It’s nice, and there are plenty of other sites we didn’t get to see.
We’re a group of 6 friends with an average age of 70, all mobile, and we’re planning a trip to Peru in September/October 2026. Below is an idea of what we’re looking for: a French-speaking guide, accommodation in 3-star hotels or homestays with comfort.
Duration: 16 to 20 days on-site.
Visit the main sites with immersion in the culture and way of life.
Which francophone agency in Peru would you recommend? Thanks
hi, I'm planning a trip to Peru and Bolivia soon. I'm looking for a local travel agency. Does anyone know of one? Thanks
Hi there, we’re spending 2 full days in El Calafate and we’d like to visit Perito Moreno. The prices through agencies are sky-high, so I’m trying to figure out why by looking at the cost of the bus separately, park entry separately, and the boat separately. I’m still way off the total amount. From reading several blogs, it seems like we could do it ourselves by renting a car. What do you think?
After that, we saw that we could also visit other glaciers, but the agency prices for those are even more expensive. However, in this case, I don’t know if we can do it on our own...
Thanks for your help!
After that, we saw that we could also visit other glaciers, but the agency prices for those are even more expensive. However, in this case, I don’t know if we can do it on our own...
Thanks for your help!
I’ve seen some info about this route, but not nearly enough, so I thought I’d share what I did for anyone interested.
Cayenne - Saint-Georges: From Cayenne’s bus station, the TIG No. 8 bus goes to Saint-Georges. It’s a minibus run by a contractor you can call ahead to reserve a seat. I managed to get a spot the same day. It was parked on the other side of the river, across from the main bus stops. Price: 40 €, departures at 7 AM, 9 AM, 11 AM, and 3 PM except Sundays, depending on driver availability.
Saint-Georges - Oiapoque: Once in Saint-Georges, cross the river by canoe for 10 €. The canoe made a first stop on the opposite bank, then a second in the center of Oiapoque. To enter Brazil, you’ll need to get your passport stamped. This can be done at the federal police station, less than 1 km from the dock, heading into Oiapoque.
Oiapoque - Macapá: From Oiapoque, there are buses or taxis. Not knowing when the next bus would come, I didn’t want to wait, so I went back to the dock and took a 4x4, a kind of shared taxi, for 250 reals. I left around 4 PM and arrived at 2 AM in Macapá. If I had to do it again, I’d take the bus—apparently, it has reclining seats and travels overnight to arrive the next morning.
Macapá - Santana You need to get to Santana to take the ferry to Belém—tricky on a Sunday... After waiting for a bus that was taking forever, I took a *carretera pirata* (unofficial taxi) on the advice of a local Brazilian. It took me to Santana for 10 reals (vs. 5 for the bus). The ride takes about 15 minutes from Macapá to Santana’s port. You can do this the same morning.
Santana - Belém I bought tickets directly at the port when I arrived from one of the many agencies. I slept in a no-frills little hotel right by the port, run by a charming elderly couple, and boarded the next day at 9 AM. You’ll need a hammock to sleep if you’re not taking a cabin. The fare is 250 reals—it’s listed as 300, but they gave me a "discount" without me even asking. The trip takes 24 hours to Belém. There’s a small snack bar for those who didn’t have time to pack food.
Article on the topic (in French): https://la1ere.franceinfo.fr/guyane/macapa-belem-au-fil-de-l-amazone-1302076.html
Hope this helps someone avoid some of the hassle I went through!
Cayenne - Saint-Georges: From Cayenne’s bus station, the TIG No. 8 bus goes to Saint-Georges. It’s a minibus run by a contractor you can call ahead to reserve a seat. I managed to get a spot the same day. It was parked on the other side of the river, across from the main bus stops. Price: 40 €, departures at 7 AM, 9 AM, 11 AM, and 3 PM except Sundays, depending on driver availability.
Saint-Georges - Oiapoque: Once in Saint-Georges, cross the river by canoe for 10 €. The canoe made a first stop on the opposite bank, then a second in the center of Oiapoque. To enter Brazil, you’ll need to get your passport stamped. This can be done at the federal police station, less than 1 km from the dock, heading into Oiapoque.
Oiapoque - Macapá: From Oiapoque, there are buses or taxis. Not knowing when the next bus would come, I didn’t want to wait, so I went back to the dock and took a 4x4, a kind of shared taxi, for 250 reals. I left around 4 PM and arrived at 2 AM in Macapá. If I had to do it again, I’d take the bus—apparently, it has reclining seats and travels overnight to arrive the next morning.
Macapá - Santana You need to get to Santana to take the ferry to Belém—tricky on a Sunday... After waiting for a bus that was taking forever, I took a *carretera pirata* (unofficial taxi) on the advice of a local Brazilian. It took me to Santana for 10 reals (vs. 5 for the bus). The ride takes about 15 minutes from Macapá to Santana’s port. You can do this the same morning.
Santana - Belém I bought tickets directly at the port when I arrived from one of the many agencies. I slept in a no-frills little hotel right by the port, run by a charming elderly couple, and boarded the next day at 9 AM. You’ll need a hammock to sleep if you’re not taking a cabin. The fare is 250 reals—it’s listed as 300, but they gave me a "discount" without me even asking. The trip takes 24 hours to Belém. There’s a small snack bar for those who didn’t have time to pack food.
Article on the topic (in French): https://la1ere.franceinfo.fr/guyane/macapa-belem-au-fil-de-l-amazone-1302076.html
Hope this helps someone avoid some of the hassle I went through!
