Hi there, I’m planning a 22-day trip to Madagascar this July.

And I could really use some advice 😊

Here’s what I’m sure about: Spending a few days in Nosy Be so my daughter can complete her Open Water certification—so I’m thinking 4 or 5 days there. I think Diego Suarez, Montagne d’Ambre, and Ankarana would suit what we like to do and have the advantage of being close to Nosy Be.

Now, the parts I’m unsure about, especially because of travel times:

My daughters really want to see whales. Is it possible around Nosy Be, or is Sainte Marie *the* must-visit spot? And what’s the weather like at that time of year? If we choose Sainte Marie, maybe do the Pangalanes Canal? Or is the route from Diego to Sainte Marie via the Vanilla Road a must-do?

Another option could be exploring the east with the Tsiribihina River and the Avenue of the Baobabs in Morondava.

Thanks in advance for your tips!

Hi there,

I’m looking for information about the island of Madagascar and Nosy Be. I’d like to spend 10 days there in February. Could you recommend some hotels and must-see places? Is it better to rent a car or a motorbike? What budget should I plan for? We’ll be a group of 4 people.

Thanks in advance for your tips!

Hello, After asking questions on the site, here’s a little feedback on our trip in March and April. Marseille/Antananarivo flight with Ethiopian Airlines was great both ways. I’d recommend it. Domestic flights with Madagascar Airlines were just as smooth. We had to change our plans because I was the victim of a snatch-theft attempt at Ivato... patellar fracture... so I ended up with a brace and more rest than hikes. This let us spend more time in the same areas and make some connections. We loved Tulear. Stayed with Alain—excellent value for money. Mangily, where we stayed for 15 days. Hotel Bella Dona due to my little handicap. The pool replaced sea swims. Mangily gets a bad rap for being very touristy. True, you get approached a lot on the beach—you have to play along and buy some trinkets, but after that, you get royal peace and lots of exchanges with locals. The village and its lively street are nice too. Don’t hesitate to eat with fishermen or at local bars. Anakao, a big favorite. Just the journey there is worth it. Watching dozens of pirogues set off between 5 and 6 AM is a magical moment. Stayed at Peter Pan’s place. Lots of chats with Dario since we were the only guests. Planned a 4-day Antananarivo–Soniara–Ivango road trip with a driver. Cut to 2 days because the boat to Sainte Marie was moved up due to weather. I don’t remember the company’s name, but it wasn’t great for safety—plus, we brought back fleas. Visited Andasibe Park along the way. Quick tip: go in the morning. A little over 2 weeks on Sainte Marie at Hôtel Mantis Soanambo—total luxury negotiated at a price that defied all competition because it was low season. Meals were at little local eateries nearby. We chose not to sleep on Île aux Nattes but went there several times during the day (crossing: 4000 ariary for 2). You have to take a pirogue tour—it’s like stepping into a postcard. Sainte Marie is a special place. A tropical island that feels like the Caribbean ones we’ve lived on. No security issues at all. We rented a scooter because we found tuk-tuk prices a bit steep. You can leave the scooter with helmet and keys and come back 4 hours later. More amazing encounters here too. Last part of our trip in Ampefy, a beautiful volcanic region with a very welcoming population. Stayed with a friend of our driver. Hotels in Ivato are plentiful and vary a lot in quality. Les 12 Collines is a bit out of the way but only 21 € per night. La Chato... very expensive for what you get. I tried to keep it short. Madagascar is a wonderful island with so many facets. Always so many emotions when I think back on this trip. The extreme poverty... don’t hesitate to buy food for the kids on the beach, for example. It doesn’t cost much, but it means a lot to them. The kindness of the people and, above all, those SMILES. We’re hooked—we’re going back in November for 6 months... because yes, you can buy a 3-month visa at the airport (a question I’d asked), and you can extend it for another 3 months... if you apply in time at a police station. We didn’t take Malarone either. We’d brought some, but there were few mosquitoes, and "Insect Écran" worked really well.

Hi there, I’m heading to Madagascar for 15 days next March, specifically to Nosy Be, and I’d like to buy some vanilla. Where can I buy it in Nosy Be, and what’s the current price of vanilla? I’ve heard that the price of vanilla has skyrocketed (like everything else, to be honest). If anyone has bought some recently, that would be a huge help. Thanks in advance!

It’s been 15 years since I last went to Sainte-Marie. I used to stay at the Hôtel Les Baleines—it was pretty basic, but I get the feeling things have improved since then. If anyone has good recommendations for hotels, rentals, scooters, or tuk-tuks, I’m all ears!

Hi there, Could you recommend any reputable local agencies for a driver with a vehicle to travel along the RN7 from Tana to Tulear with stops? Or alternatively, a driver you’ve personally "hired" for your trip? Thanks! Xavier

Things may have changed... 10 years ago, we were advised not to exchange money at Ivato Airport when arriving, but rather in shops like electronics stores. We’ll be arriving on a Friday early afternoon—I’m wondering if Malagasy banks in Tana are open on Friday afternoons and Saturdays? Do you have any tips for exchanging euros to ariary?

It's all in the title! What are the options and fares for getting from the airport to downtown? My last reference there is 10 years old...

bonjour, je n'ai rien trouvé de récent sur ce sujet dans les posts. je cherche donc un hébergement sur Diego et éventuellement brièvement à ramena. du pas trop cher : pas besoin de clim, salle de bain fonctionnelle et chambre propre je privilégie l’accueil, le contact et les bons tuyaux :-) merci

Hi everyone, I’m heading to Île aux Nattes in a few weeks and I’d like to know if euros are accepted in the island’s restaurants. At the hotel where I’ll be staying, they take card payments, but for activities, I can’t find any reliable info. Could anyone tell me the approximate cost in euros and/or ariary for a week (food outside the hotel) on the island for two people?

Also, has anyone ever exchanged money at the Paris Magenta exchange bureau? Thanks!

Hi, Can you tell me if it's possible to exchange money in cities other than the capital or some domestic airports, and should I prioritize banks or exchange shops? Thanks in advance

If you had 5 days available in your road trip on this gorgeous island, which would you choose between the two options below and why? 1/ Diego Suarez with a visit to Ankarana, the "Montagne des Français", the Three Bays, the Emerald Sea, etc. Or 2/ a trio starting from Morondava all the way to Anakao, passing through Belo sur Mer, Manja, Salary, and Anakao. Thanks for your help

Hi there, We’re thinking of doing the train journey from Fianarantsoa to Manakara again. Is the train still running? After that, we’re planning to go from Manakara to Fort Dauphin by 4x4. Thanks for any tips you can share!

hi, does anyone have any recent info on the condition of this RN6 route? roadworks? maintenance? and of course, about the two river crossings at Gué between Ambanja and Ambilobe on the Ifatsy and Mahavavy rivers (at the entrance to Ambilobe) condition of the ferries, possible start of work on the bridges (with the addition of Bailey bridges) any info after the rainy season, meaning after April 2025 thanks

Hi there, How do you get from Tamatave or Foulpointe to Sainte Marie Island? We’re heading to Madagascar from July 16 to 29, 2025. How many days should we stay to explore the area? What’s there to do in Tamatave, Foulpointe, or Sainte Marie Island? What should we visit? Thanks everyone!

Hi everyone, We’re heading to Madagascar for a month at the end of June with the family. Our itinerary takes us to the East: Tana, Andasibe, Pangalanes, Tamatave, Mahambo, Sainte Marie; then up North to Sambava, Vohemar, and finishing in Diego Suarez. One question that’s been on our minds a lot is about money and payments. We’ve seen some discussions on this forum, but they didn’t answer all our questions.

We have two Visa credit cards from two different banks. The banks are aware of our trip and shouldn’t block the cards. One card is from the Caisse d’Épargne, which has international options that avoid fees. We’ll likely use this card as our primary, and the second one will be a backup (since the fees are higher for that one).

We’ve heard that few shops and hotels accept card payments—is that accurate?

Several hotels seem to accept wire transfers to a Euro account, as some have asked for a deposit that way. The exchange rate offered is often poor, though (e.g., 1 € = 4,500 Ar)—is this negotiable?

Of course, we’ll bring some Euros in cash to exchange, but we don’t want to carry too much money on us. If we exchange Euros at a bank, is the wait long?

Once the cash runs out, we’ll need to withdraw from ATMs, but we’ve heard it can be a challenge—ATMs max out at 400,000 Ar, and the wait at the counter can be very long if we need more. Have you observed the same?

Is there also a way to pay using smartphone apps? Someone mentioned TapTap Send or Sendwave, and I’ve also seen the Orange Money app. Is one or more of these options reliable and widely used? I imagine this could be useful for many payments and help avoid burning through the cash we withdraw too quickly.

Are we missing any other practical solutions?

Thanks for your help! Julien

I'm heading to Nosy Be (Madagascar) this coming October. This is my very first visit to this part of the Indian Ocean. I'd like to know if it's better to bring my bank card and withdraw cash from ATMs there, or if it would be preferable to bring cash in euros or dollars and exchange it for the local currency upon arrival. Thanks! /D

Hi there, I’m looking for info on whether it’s feasible to travel the Pangalanes Canal by boat from Toamasina to Manakara. I know the canal is poorly maintained with some sections that aren’t navigable. This is my 5th trip to Madagascar. Thanks for any tips!

Hi everyone, Everything’s in the title: what are the options for getting from M. to M.? By *boutre* (traditional sailboat), I know, if you’re not in a hurry. Is there a coastal track between Mahajanga and the Tsingy? Meaning, can you reach Bekopaka by track without going back through Tana? Thanks.

hey everyone, I’m planning a trip in July: I’d like to take a minibus from Tana to Mahajanga, then continue on to Antsohihy and Narinda Bay, take time to explore the area (Nosy Lava), and then head back down to Mahajanga if possible by boutre or, if not, by the track if it exists. Just to clarify, I’ve got a bike and all the time in the world. Has anyone done this or have any info? Thanks in advance!!

Hi, We're heading to Madagascar in just over a month. Our flight arrives at Nosy Be, and I was wondering if there are any currency exchange offices at that airport since it doesn’t seem very big? I’d like to exchange 500 € for incidentals (souvenirs, vanilla purchases, etc.). Our hotel is already paid for (half-board) as well as the excursions. What do you think? Thanks for your help!

Can you tell me how long (on average...) the Tana to Tamatave trip takes with local minibus transport? Which reliable company do you recommend for booking?

Hi there I’m heading to Madagascar soon and I’m looking for two pieces of info: - Is there a passenger train between Tananarive and Tamatave? - Are there maritime connections again between Madagascar and the Comoros from Majunga? If so, can you buy ferry tickets online? Thanks Laurent

Hello, We’re arriving in Tana, the capital, by plane on the morning of May 22nd after an overnight flight. Does any forum member know this Malagasy driver-guide: Haja Rasolondraibe? The itinerary below might change or evolve—23 days might not be enough. We’ll visit the central region (the highlands: Antsirabe, Atoetra and a Zafimaniry village, Lake Andrianina) and the unmissable west (Kirindy, the Avenue of the Baobabs, the Tsingy de Bamaraha, and a fishing village). Then back to Tana. After that, we’ll head east of Tana to Ambohimanga, Andasibe, near Tamatave, Ankanin'ny, Mahambo, and Île Sainte-Marie if time allows. Not sure yet. Then back to Tana. This driver-guide with a 4x4 charges 70 € per day, including food and accommodation. Excluding fuel. If any members can recommend other driver-guides with a 4x4 and more reliable vehicles in good condition (since we don’t want to travel at night), I’d be interested. Thanks in advance. evad.tebo

Oh, the good news—the site is back up after such a long closure. I think many of us were really missing it, though some have moved on to other forums like Routard. Hopefully, activity will pick up little by little. Travel habits have probably changed post-Covid, and some regulars won’t be coming back for all sorts of reasons. But for the rest of us, the forum is here for travel journals and pre-trip questions. Anyway…

Back to the main point: my last trip to Madagascar was a while ago now—about a year—on the High Plateaus during the austral winter. It was really chilly, and to be honest, my feelings were mixed between the joy of returning to Madagascar and the sadness of seeing the state of the country. The infrastructure is crumbling, and the population is sinking into poverty at unprecedented levels. The country’s closure likely had immeasurable consequences, compounded by destructive cyclones. Even secondary cities have seen large numbers of rural people arriving in search of work, while some rural areas barely allow survival. I’ve never felt such despair over the situation in 20 years.

From Tana to Fianar, it was nothing but heartbreaking observations. Probably made worse by the drizzle and cold typical of that season in the region.

In a few weeks, I’m planning to return to the High Plateaus and also Sainte Marie. On that note, a few questions: has anyone stayed at Samaria Cosy Lodge, and what did you think of it? On Île aux Nattes, which hotel would you recommend for a few peaceful days, ideally on the coast best suited for snorkeling?

Thanks in advance

Bonsoir Pour une arrivée à 21h, mieux vaut réserver à l’avance. Dans le centre Analakely, Andohalo, Ambohijatovo c’est pratique. Je conseille La Résidence du Rova : propre, bien situé et bon rapport qualité/prix. Oui, les distributeurs à Tana acceptent Mastercard et Visa sans souci

Hello, Our trip is taking shape. We’re leaving on February 28th. We’ll start by flying to Tulear, then make our way up to Tana at a relaxed pace before catching another flight to Diego Suarez. We’d love to end our stay on Sainte Marie Island. Is there a way to make the trip by land? By sea? Just to clarify, we’re not pressed for time. Thanks!

Hi

Are there any boat connections between Mananara and Sambava in September 2026?

Thanks for your replies

Hi! Recently, the domestic-flight terminal at Ivato has been moved to the old "international" airport, complete with its own scanner. On October 13th, I checked my luggage (which I had inspected before leaving my hotel in Tana) for a flight to Sambava. It wasn’t until I arrived at my accommodation in Antalaha and opened it that I discovered it had been searched (normal before boarding a plane), but to my surprise, the case containing my GPS fishfinder had been opened—likely mistaken for a laptop due to the scanner’s open access to all kinds of theft—and three SD cards were stolen. Luckily, two of the SD cards had their micro SDs inserted into the device, so I still had the Navionics micro card (300 €) essential for fishing. Of course, I’m not asking for compensation, just urging caution with checked luggage on "domestic" flights. (This is a copy-paste of my post on *Le Routard*.)

Hi, is it possible to find out? How can I stay for 3 consecutive months in Madagascar, based on a fixed-date flight ticket? In short, how do I get a visa stamped at the airport??

Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?

CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!