Hi, We’re considering a discovery trip to Brazil in summer 2025 for a maximum of 3 weeks, transport included. Since the must-see sites are very far apart, we’ve selected the ones that seemed the most spectacular and have little or no equivalent elsewhere in the world. Here’s what we’re thinking: Outbound: 1 day Paris → São Paulo Iguaçu: 2 days Transfer: 1 day via São Paulo or Rio and São Luís Lençóis National Park: 3 days Transfer: 1 day via São Luís Salvador de Bahia: 2 days Transfer: 1 day via Rio Rio: 4 days Return: 1 day What do you think? I was thinking of adding a stop that’s easily accessible without flying from one of the places above. Ilha Grande? Tinharé Island? Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance for your tips! Virginie

Hi everyone. We’re heading to Brazil at the end of August for a month as a couple. Could anyone help us find accommodation and particularly interesting spots along this legendary route? We’ll be renting a car and plan to make 2 or 3 stops, but we prefer exploring on foot or by boat once we’re there. I know that lodging is particularly expensive there and that access to nature is usually on private properties, but our budget is limited and comfort isn’t our priority. Thanks for your replies. Fred

Hi everyone, We're planning a trip to southern Chile in November. Here's our tentative itinerary: Day 1: Arrival in Santiago, then a flight the next day to Balmaceda where we'll pick up a rental car to reach Coyhaique. Day 3: Walk in the Coyhaique National Reserve, then continue to Puerto Chacabuco. Return to Coyhaique for the second night. Day 4: Drive to Villa Cerro Castillo for a hike in the national park. Continue to Puerto Tranquilo and stay there for 3 nights. Day 5: Boat tour on Laguna San Rafael. Day 6: Day trip to Monte San Valentin Glacier. Day 7: Excursion to the Marble Chapels, then drive to Puerto Guadal. We'll stay there for 3 nights. Day 8: Walk along Lago Carrera and return to Puerto Guadal. Day 9: Rio Baker Valley and, if possible, a glacier excursion. Day 10: Drive to Cochrane and hike in Tamango National Reserve. We'll stay 2 nights in Cochrane. Day 11: Walk in the Chacabuco Valley. Day 12: Drive to Caleta Tortel. We'll stay there for 2 nights. Day 13: Cruise in the Rio Baker delta. Day 14: Return to Cochrane. Day 15: Return to Balmaceda in two stages. Day 16: Continue the return journey. Day 17: Return the rental car and head back to Santiago.

After this, we're also planning to explore northern Santiago. I'll post about that part once I have a clearer idea of the route.

What do you think of this itinerary? Is it doable in 17 days? Thanks in advance for your tips and recommendations. martine

Hi there, I’m planning a 3-week trip to Patagonia and Chile at the end of March. I’m looking for a pretty chill itinerary that isn’t too tiring for health reasons, but still a nice trip... To avoid spending three weeks in the somewhat chilly Patagonia, we’re planning to head up to Valparaíso and the Atacama Desert. Here’s the itinerary: Arrival in Buenos Aires Flight to El Calafate (4 nights) Bus to Puerto Natales (1 night) Torres del Paine (4 nights) Santiago (1 night) (flight from Puerto Natales) Valparaíso (4 nights) San Pedro de Atacama (5 nights) Santiago (1 night) then flight to Paris I’m wondering whether it’s worth going all the way to Ushuaia. Sure, it’s a legendary destination, but is it as impressive as El Calafate and Torres del Paine? The other option would be to cut one night from Torres del Paine, Valparaíso, and San Pedro, and spend 3 nights in Ushuaia instead. Also, I’m a bit confused about whether an international driver’s permit is required to drive in Argentina and Chile. I’ve applied for one, but the processing times are really long, and I probably won’t have it before I leave... Thanks for your feedback, Marc

Hi there,

I’ll be traveling to Peru in August 2025. Unfortunately, I only have 12 days to visit this amazing country. I’m torn between doing a fast-paced trip where I see every sight but don’t really soak it all in, or going for a lighter itinerary that lets me enjoy the moment more.

Right now, I’ve narrowed it down to three options and I’d love to hear your thoughts on which one to pick.

Option 1 August 14, 2025 Flight Canada – Lima Visit Lima Stay in Lima August 15, 2025 Flight Lima – Cusco Visit Cusco Stay in Cusco August 16, 2025 Visit Humantay Lake Stay in Cusco August 17, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Stay in Ollantaytambo August 18, 2025 Visit Machu Picchu Stay in Ollantaytambo August 19, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Stay in Cusco August 20, 2025 Visit Rainbow Mountains Stay in Cusco August 21, 2025 Flight Cusco – Lima Bus Lima to Huacachina Stay in Huacachina August 22, 2025 Visit Huacachina Stay in Huacachina August 23, 2025 Visit Paracas Stay in Huacachina August 24, 2025 Bus Huacachina – Lima Visit Lima Stay in Lima August 25, 2025 Flight Lima – Canada

Option 2 August 14, 2025 Flight Canada – Lima Bus Lima – Huacachina Stay in Huacachina August 15, 2025 Visit Huacachina Bus Huacachina – Arequipa Overnight bus August 16, 2025 Visit Arequipa Stay in Arequipa August 17, 2025 Colca Canyon Transfer Arequipa – Puno Stay in Puno August 18, 2025 Visit Lake Titicaca Bus Puno – Cusco (7:00 AM) Overnight bus August 19, 2025 Visit Humantay Lake Stay in Cusco August 20, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Stay in Ollantaytambo August 21, 2025 Visit Machu Picchu Stay in Ollantaytambo August 22, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Stay in Cusco August 23, 2025 Visit Rainbow Mountains Stay in Cusco August 24, 2025 Flight Cusco – Lima Visit Lima Stay in Lima August 25, 2025 Flight Lima – Canada

Option 3 August 14, 2025 Flight Canada – Lima Bus Lima – Huacachina Stay in Huacachina August 15, 2025 Visit Huacachina Stay in Huacachina August 16, 2025 Visit Paracas Stay in Paracas August 17, 2025 Bus Paracas – Lima Flight Lima – Cusco Stay in Cusco August 18, 2025 Visit Cusco Stay in Cusco August 19, 2025 Visit Humantay Lake Stay in Cusco August 20, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Stay in Ollantaytambo August 21, 2025 Visit Machu Picchu Stay in Ollantaytambo August 22, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Stay in Cusco August 23, 2025 Visit Rainbow Mountains Stay in Cusco August 24, 2025 Flight Cusco – Lima Visit Lima Stay in Lima August 25, 2025 Flight Lima – Canada

Hi there, Three years ago during a trip to Java (no, I didn’t post in the wrong forum!), I came across the address of former miners who had switched to “tourism” and organized nighttime ascents of the Kawah Ijen volcano and descents into the crater. So I was thinking—maybe there are miners on the salt flats too, either former or still active, who do the same thing. If you’ve had an experience like this, I’d love any tips you can share. Thanks in advance.

Hi there, I’m planning to visit the Cotahuasi area in a few months. I’d like to know which bus companies operate the Arequipa to Cotahuasi route and which ones are the safest in terms of avoiding accidents. Is the road passable if we rent a car to get there? Has anyone reading this traveled by car to this destination? Thanks in advance for your reply.

Hi, we’re planning a round trip from San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, to Salta, Argentina, in two months. On the way there, we’ll take the northern route via Susques, Route 27, then 52. But for the return, we were thinking of taking the southern route via San Antonio de los Cobres, Route 51, then 23. Is it similar to the northern route in terms of road surface? How busy is it, and are there gas stations? Basically, should we be worried about doing it in an SUV that’s supposedly 4x4 but has regular road tires and no second spare wheel, obviously... I’ve seen that we can stop over in San Antonio de los Cobres. Thanks for your feedback. Raf.

Hi everyone, We’re heading to Chile and Argentina for 4 weeks (Atacama Desert, Easter Island, and Chilean and Argentine Patagonia). For Patagonia, our itinerary (rental car) is as follows: 1 night in Puerto Natales 2 nights in Torres del Paine.

Then we’ll drive back up to El Chaltén, where we’ll spend 3 nights (fingers crossed the weather lets us do the two hikes we’ve planned). After that, we’re off to El Calafate for 2 nights (Perito Moreno Glacier). Our last day and night in Argentina will be spent at an estancia (Nibepo Aike). This is where I’m wondering: We have to drive in one day from the estancia (1.5 hours of dirt road from El Calafate) all the way to Punta Arenas. On paper, it seems doable. But what’s it like in reality? Is it too long? Thanks for your thoughts and advice—I hope I’ve been clear. Pilar

Hi everyone,

I’m planning a trip to Argentina in February. I’ll be starting from Buenos Aires and want to do a loop that goes through Salta and Mendoza before returning to Buenos Aires. I’m still undecided on the direction: • Buenos Aires → Mendoza → Salta → Buenos Aires or • Buenos Aires → Salta → Mendoza → Buenos Aires.

I plan to explore each region, alternating between buses and a rental car.

In your opinion, which direction makes more sense for this itinerary (climate, roads, logistics, etc.)?

Thanks in advance for your tips! !

Hi! We’re planning to spend a month (February or March 2026) in southern Chile, starting from Santiago (Lake District, Torres del Paine Park, Punta Arenas). Can we do this itinerary by car, or do we need to take internal flights? Has anyone done this trip and can give us some tips? Thanks! Fabienne and Jérôme

Hello, How good it feels to be back on this forum!!!!

Today, we started looking into traveling in April 2026, either to Chile or Argentina. It’s our first trip to South America. I’ve only been to French Guiana once, about ten years ago, for the space center. In recent years, we’ve usually gone to Asia during the spring holidays.

Based on the flight tickets I’ve found, two arrival and departure options are available: - Arriving in Buenos Aires and departing from Salvador de Bahia. - Arriving in Santiago, Chile, and still departing from Salvador de Bahia.

We’re considering flying business class on the outbound flight so we arrive a bit more rested. The travel class might influence our choice between itinerary A or B.

We’d like to spend two days at Iguazu Falls (both the Argentine and Brazilian sides), which explains the departure from Brazil.

Initially, we thought about arriving in Buenos Aires and staying in Argentina before heading to Iguazu. However, the itinerary forces us to go back through Buenos Aires.

We love nature. The El Calafate region seems to offer beautiful, easily accessible landscapes. Maybe there’s another area we should prioritize.

Here are two itineraries—what do you think? I know it’s short, but we can’t add any more days. We’ll have to make it work.

Option A: D1(Sat): Flight from France to Buenos Aires – arrival at 9:55 PM. D2(Sun): Visit Buenos Aires D3(Mon): Visit Buenos Aires. D4(Tue): Flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate – 3.5-hour flight – arrival around midday. D4(Tue) – until D11(Tue) – visit the El Calafate region: El Calafate / 121km / El Chaltén / 12km / Mount Fitz Roy / 4km / Cerro Torre Mountain / 132km / Perito Moreno Glacier / 57km / El Calafate. D11(Tue): Flight to Buenos Aires D12(Wed): Morning flight to Iguazu (Argentine side) – flight at 6:40 AM or 8:10 AM – 2-hour flight. D13(Thu): Half-day on the Brazilian side – flight around 7:00 PM to Salvador de Bahia. D14(Fri): Visit Salvador de Bahia (downtown) D15(Sat): Morning visit + midday departure for the airport – flight at 5:45 PM from Salvador de Bahia D16(Sun): Arrival in France.

This itinerary forces us to pass through Buenos Aires twice.

Option B: D0(Fri): Flight from France to Santiago, Chile – departure at 11:20 PM from CDG. D1(Sat): Arrival at 7:45 AM in Santiago, Chile – hotel + city visit. D2(Sun): Visit Santiago, Chile D3(Mon): Departure for Puerto Natales, Punta Arenas, or El Calafate – to be decided. There’s about a 3-hour flight. We need to check the drop-off fees if we pick up the car in Chile and return it in Argentina – see ADEL RENT A CAR. D3(Mon) – until D10(Mon) – visit the El Calafate region: El Calafate / 121km / El Chaltén / 12km / Mount Fitz Roy / 4km / Cerro Torre Mountain / 132km / Perito Moreno Glacier / 57km / El Calafate. D10(Mon): 3.5-hour flight + visit Buenos Aires. D11(Tue): Visit Buenos Aires D12(Wed): Morning flight to Iguazu (Argentine side) – flight at 6:40 AM or 8:10 AM – 2-hour flight. D13(Thu): Half-day on the Brazilian side – flight around 7:00 PM to Salvador de Bahia. D14(Fri): Visit Salvador de Bahia (downtown) D15(Sat): Morning visit + midday departure for the airport – flight at 5:45 PM from Salvador de Bahia D16(Sun): Arrival in France.

The end of the itinerary is the same. This option avoids passing through Buenos Aires twice. Thanks for your feedback.

Hello,

I’ve planned a 3.5-week trip to Chile in February/March 2025, with the goal of driving the Carretera Austral from Puerto Montt to Caleta Tortel in a rented 4x4. The itinerary is set, accommodations are booked, and the 4x4 is reserved. We could still tweak things a bit, but it’s getting harder to find available lodging in some spots.

Here’s the planned route: - 1 night in Puerto Montt on arrival day - 2 nights in Castro (Chiloé Island) - 2 nights near Ensenada - 1 night in Horniporén - 1 night in Chaitén - 3 nights in Puyuhuapi - 2 nights in Coyhaique - 3 nights between Puerto Bertrand and Cochrane - 2 nights in Caleta Tortel - 3 nights in Puerto Guadal - 1 night in Chile Chico (to take the ferry across the lake) - 1 night in Villa Cerro Castillo before flying out from Balmaceda

I have a few questions about the activities we’d like to do:

The **Marble Caves**: I’d love an option that lets us "go inside" them. From what I’ve read, this depends on the water level, wind, and type of boat. Any tips or advice? We’d like to do an **excursion to see condors**. We were thinking of doing this while in Coyhaique (we’re staying 2 nights). Has anyone done this? With which agency? We’re spending 3 nights between Puerto Bertrand and Cochrane. The idea is to **explore the vast Patagonia Park and its wildlife**. But I’m not sure where to start. Any recommendations for day hikes or itineraries? I read somewhere that you can do a day trip with a guide that includes a boat ride on Lake Cochrane, but I can’t find the booking info. An agency for **glacier exploration** (we were thinking of **Lake Leones Glacier**). I contacted Ruta León but haven’t heard back. Any agencies to recommend?

Thanks so much! Pascale

Hey hey!

We’re on a 3-month trip through Peru, Brazil, Paraguay, and then southern Brazil.

We’ve been in Ollantaytambo for 2 days now, right at the gateway to Machu Picchu...

Here are a few tips:

To get to Aguas Calientes, there are 2 options: one by train for at least $70 one-way (2h), with lots of departures throughout the day.

The other is by bus—departure in the morning, check with local agencies starting at 10 € (40 soles). The bus ends at Hidroeléctrica, where you’ll have to walk the last 2 hours... We went with option 2 ;) Leaving tomorrow morning.

PS: There’s a great little "bakery" with good prices near the market (croissants, pizza, bread, etc.).

In the Sacred Valley, I’d recommend spending a night or two in Maras—a quiet village where a nice walk will take you to Moray, then another to the Salineras...

Another really cool route to take with stops for pisco (from San Clemente, where colectivos leave) to Cusco, along stunning high-altitude roads... From Pisco to Ayacucho: 5h, then from Ayacucho to Andahuaylas: 5h. Super big local market on Saturdays/Sundays.

Plan for 6-7 hours to finish the trip to Cusco...

Happy travels! !

Hi there, Not wanting to go through a traditional travel agency—often based in France and only offering "items pulled from an internet catalog"—I’ve decided to plan this trip to Chile on my own this year, in March-April. However, I’m overwhelmed by the number of options online. I’ll be staying in San Pedro de Atacama for 4 nights. I’d love to explore San Pedro de Atacama and its surroundings. Since I won’t have a vehicle, I’ll likely need to rely on group transfers. What do you recommend as must-see places and activities? And most importantly, which trustworthy providers should I turn to? Thanks in advance! Jamet JC

hi,

We’re planning a trip to Brazil in March 2026, just the two of us, for 10 days without using an agency. Rio, the falls, and Bahia too. How can we get around there? Train? Car rental? Plane? Are the roads easy to drive on? Is Rio safe to explore on our own? We’d love any travel journals with ideas for places to see, as well as books to help us plan the whole trip. Thanks in advance for all your tips! See you soon, cheers

Hello,

We’re leaving on February 19th for 13 days in the Northeast of Brazil, with my husband and our two kids (19 and 17). Here’s our itinerary: We’ll arrive in Fortaleza and stay in a guesthouse for 3 nights. Then we’ll hit the road with a private driver, heading to Pipa via the beach of Ponta do Mel, passing through Galinhos, São Miguel, and Natal.

Do you think this is a good itinerary?

Initially, I was planning to go from São Luís to Fortaleza (Lençóis Maranhenses...), but I was advised against it since it’s not really the season and the dunes and lagoons would’ve been empty. I can’t change the itinerary now, but I’m a bit worried I’ll be less impressed by this one. I’d love to know if it’s still worth it?

Thanks in advance!

Hi there, we’re spending 2 full days in El Calafate and we’d like to visit Perito Moreno. The prices through agencies are sky-high, so I’m trying to figure out why by looking at the cost of the bus separately, park entry separately, and the boat separately. I’m still way off the total amount. From reading several blogs, it seems like we could do it ourselves by renting a car. What do you think?

After that, we saw that we could also visit other glaciers, but the agency prices for those are even more expensive. However, in this case, I don’t know if we can do it on our own...

Thanks for your help!

Hi there, since there isn’t much recent info on how to get to MP, I’d love to know if there have been any improvements to the "route" to Hydroelectrica. Is it feasible to drive there in February? And is it still possible to walk all the way to Aguas Calientes? I think I read somewhere that it’s no longer allowed?? Do you think I can buy Machu Picchu entrance tickets last-minute at that time of year, given the weather?

A few friends and I are planning to explore the northern shore of Lake Titicaca, making stops using local buses or collectivos. The route starts in Huancane, passes through places like Moho and Conima (on the Peruvian side), then crosses the border and continues into Bolivia via spots like Escoma, Ancoraines, Achacachi, and Huarina. I can’t find any info on transportation between these towns. It also seems there are no listed hotels or other types of accommodations.

Personally, I’ve already visited several places on the southern shore of the lake.

Questions: Is this less touristy route along the northern shore—compared to the southern route via Unguyo and Copacabana—worth it? Are there buses that cover the northern shore in both Peru and Bolivia? What accommodations do you know of along this route? Alternatively, is it possible to rent a car in Puno to circle the entire lake, and which reliable agencies would you recommend? Thanks for your suggestions! 😉

Hi everyone! So happy to be back on this forum—it’s packed with such useful info! 🙂 My husband and I are planning a 2.5-week self-drive trip to Colombia at the end of the year, including some domestic flights. My first question is: is it possible, easy, and safe to do a road trip in Colombia?

Below is our draft itinerary (with questions at each stop):

29/11: France → Colombia. Overnight in Bogotá. 30/11: Exploring Bogotá: La Candelaria and Montserrate. 01/12: Gold Museum (closed on Mondays). Drive to Zipaquirá (1.5 hrs) to visit the Salt Cathedral. Then drive to Villa de Leyva (3 hrs). Explore the town. Overnight in Villa de Leyva. 02/12: Return to Bogotá via Laguna de Guatavita (5 hrs). Is it worth the detour? Overnight in Bogotá. 03/12: Flight to Pereira. Drive to Salento. Overnight in Salento. 04/12: Cocora Valley (hike among the wax palms) followed by a drive around the area. Are there any waterfalls or other sights nearby? 05/12: Visit a coffee finca—any recommendations? Then explore the surroundings: Filandia, Manizales, waterfalls? Hot springs? Which ones? 06/12: Flight to Medellín. 07/12: Exploring Medellín: Centro, Plaza Botero, Comuna 13. How do you visit Comuna 13? Is it easy to get around Medellín? Metro? Buses? 08/12: Drive to Guatapé (2 hrs). Visit the town, stroll around the lake, then El Peñol. Overnight in Guatapé. 09/12: Return to Medellín. 10/12: Flight to Santa Marta. Drive to a hotel near Tayrona Park. 11/12: Tayrona—El Zaino entrance. 12/12: Tayrona—Palangana entrance, then Bahia Concha and Santa Marta. What do you think? 13/12: Drive to Minca (45 mins). Can we reach the village by car? Pozo Azul and Marinka waterfalls. Overnight in Minca (or back in Tayrona?). 14/12: Drive to Puerto Nao (5 hrs). Stop in Ciénaga on the way + boat tour in Nueva Venecia and/or Buena Vista? Not enough time? Overnight in Puerto Nao. 15/12: Exploring Cartagena: Centro, Getsemaní, the walls + La Boquilla if we have time. 16/12: La Boquilla (is it really worth it?) if we didn’t have time yesterday, then back to the beach. 17/12: Return to France.

So, what do you think? Is this doable, or should we tweak it? Thanks in advance for your invaluable feedback and tips! 🙂

Hi everyone, After a lot of hesitation due to the season, I finally booked my tickets to Lima from June 30 to March 11—I’ll be crossing my fingers for the weather! We’re planning the classic southern loop with a rental car, either the whole thing or part of it. I’ve got a ton of questions: Is it possible to drive to the Salinas y Aguada Blanca Reserve with our own vehicle? Is the road to Cusco (the 34 E) in good condition? Is it better to return via Andahuaylas, Pampachiri, Nazca? Or through Ayacucho toward Paracas? I’m also hesitating about heading to the Cordillera Blanca and pushing on to Trujillo and Chan Chan because of the weather. The other option would be to spend a week or 10 days in northern Chile, which I think is amazing...

So, if you’ve got any tips or suggestions?

hi everyone, I’m just back from a 5-week trip to Argentina’s Northwest and San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. This was my second visit to the area—20 years apart—and my third trip to Argentina overall. still just as stunning! this time I explored the El Peñón and Antofagasta de la Sierra region in Catamarca province; I can’t recommend it enough. the road from Cafayate is good—easy in a Renault Logan—and once you’re there you’ve got 4x4 excursions and hikes. way fewer tourists than around Salta, and the landscapes are totally different. happy travels!

Hi everyone,

I’m planning my trip to Brazil in March 2025 (finally!) and I’d love to hear your thoughts on Ilha Grande and Paraty. We’ll be arriving from Rio and departing from Paraty (heading to São Paulo). How can we best organize these transfers—can we book the different transports on the spot? How much time is ideal to stay in these two places to enjoy them without doing long hikes? Do you have an estimated budget? Thanks for your feedback! Dominique

Hi everyone, My husband and I are planning to explore Ecuador in the coming year, and to make the most of the trip, we’d like to do it with a rental car. We already have a rough idea of the route we’d take, and I’m reaching out to the community to help us refine this journey. Here’s the plan: Day 1: Flight to Quito Days 2 and 3: Exploring Quito Days 4 and 5: Picking up the rental car and driving to Otavalo and Laguna Cuicocha Day 6: Drive to Papallacta via Cayambe to enjoy the hot springs in the evening Days 7 and 8: Drive to Lasso via Malachi – Excursions in Cotopaxi National Park. Laguna Limpiopungo Days 9 and 10: Laguna Quilotoa Day 11: Drive to Baños via Latacunga/Ambato to enjoy the hot springs in Baños Days 12 and 13: Hiking in the Chimborazo Reserve Day 14: Hiking in Sangay National Park Day 15: Drive to Guamote to arrive by late afternoon Day 16: Guamote market in the morning. Drive to Cañar in the afternoon Day 17: Guided tour of Ingapirca, then drive to Cuenca Day 18: Visit Cajas National Park early in the morning Day 19: Exploring Cuenca Day 20: Returning the rental car and flight to Quito or driving back to Quito (depending on cost) Day 21: Relaxing in Quito Day 22: Flight back to France

We won’t be doing any ascents—just hikes in the parks (we’re walkers, but we’re feeling our age and prefer to take it easy now!).

We’d love to hear your thoughts, critiques, or advice... Thanks in advance. Looking forward to reading your replies! martine

Hi everyone, I’m restarting my travel reports with my 2023 trip that took me from Costa Rica to Suriname over a month and a half.

First stop: Costa Rica. I arrived in late September in San José, a city I know well and never linger in. As soon as I got off the early-morning flight, I headed to the domestic airport—just a 5-minute walk away—to catch a 45-minute flight to Puerto Limón on the Caribbean coast. The 40-minute flight in a small Cessna was fun, especially since we landed on a tiny airstrip right by the sea—it felt like landing on the beach, which immediately set the mood. Plus, I wasn’t keen on enduring the 4–5-hour bus ride to Cahuita, especially since large sections of the road were under renovation. In Cahuita (where I’ve been going every year since 2015), I stayed at Kenaki Lodge on Playa Grande. It’s a great lodge, about a 45-minute walk from Cahuita’s center, but you’re just 50 meters from the beach and usually have it all to yourself. The lodge is run by Béa, a Frenchwoman, and depending on the season, you can help release baby turtles on the beach. The room was 55 €, very spacious, and you can use the outdoor kitchen. I’d recommend it for anyone looking for peace and quiet and a private beach.

After 5 days there, I flew to Cartagena but didn’t stay overnight. Instead, I headed straight to Rincón del Mar, a 3-hour bus ride from CTG. I’d mostly heard about it from a friend who lives there and runs El Ché, a beachfront restaurant. Rincón del Mar is a tiny seaside village, very peaceful, with a pretty nice beach. There are lots of small hotels and restaurants, and it’s a spot that’s likely to grow quickly in the coming years. Note: there’s no ATM there, so you’ll need to withdraw cash in San Onofre, about 30 minutes away by moto-taxi. The round trip costs around 25,000 COP. That’s also where you catch the bus to Cartagena. For accommodations, rooms were roughly 70,000–90,000 COP, with a so-so value for the price. As for things to do, I’d recommend the tour that takes you to watch the sunset in front of Bird Island, followed by a swim in a lagoon with bioluminescent plankton. The excursion (if I remember correctly) cost around 90,000 COP.

After a week in Rincón del Mar, I headed back to Cartagena and decided to fly to Yopal to visit the Río Meta. In Yopal, you’ll need to go to the bus terminal (10 minutes by taxi from the airport). From there, I took a bus to Orocué (50,000 COP) for about a 4-hour trip—it felt endless because the road was in terrible condition. Orocué is a tiny town on the banks of the Río Meta, but it has all the essentials (hotels, restaurants, ATMs). It’s lovely to stroll along the river at sunset. There are a few small bars, the area is very natural, the sunsets are stunning, and when there are distant storms, it’s just breathtaking. For lodging, I stayed at Hotel Brisas de San Miguel. It wasn’t bad—fan-cooled room for 70,000 COP. There were quite a few mosquitoes. I spent 3 days in Orocué. If you want to swim, head to the bridge (the only one), Cano San Miguel, and on the right, there’s a swimming spot. With the heat, it’s a great way to cool off.

From Orocué, I took a fast *lancha* (boat) up the Río Meta to Puerto Carreño, in the Vichada department at the far end of Colombia. This brings you to the majestic Orinoco River, right across from Venezuela. The boat ride is long—10 hours—and costs about 60 €. We left around 6 AM, with a few stops for bathroom breaks and meals along the way. But you *must* book your spot 1–2 days in advance. To do that, go to the small square above the dock—there’s a "navigation office" there. The trip was long but enjoyable. I never get tired of river journeys.

I was happy to finally arrive in Puerto Carreño, a small border town with Venezuela. No surprise that half the population was Venezuelan. In Puerto Carreño, I stayed at Hotel Delfines del Orinoco. The room was 80,000 COP, decent, with A/C, and the best part was the pool. I spent 2 nights there. One thing you *must* do—morning and evening—is hike to the top of Cerro de la Bandera (the *cerros* are huge rock formations typical of the Orinoco region, and there are many in the area). From the summit, you get amazing 360° views of the savanna and jungle. Sunrise is especially incredible. The trail is well-marked—from downtown Puerto Carreño, it takes about 20 minutes.

Next, I spent 3 nights at Rancho Barú. About an hour by boat from Puerto Carreño, you get off at Casuarito, and someone from the lodge picks you up by motorcycle for a 30-minute ride. The ranch is in the middle of the savanna, with a river/rapids beach just a 5-minute walk away. You can also fish—bites come quickly. For the lodge, one night (room or hammock) with shared bathrooms, three meals included, one excursion, plus the round-trip motorcycle ride costs 245,000 COP. An extra night without an excursion is around 100,000 COP, but you need to let the lodge know in advance so they can prepare enough food—there’s absolutely nothing for miles around.

After those 3 great days at the ranch, I took a canoe to cross into Venezuela, since Casuarito is right across from Puerto Ayacucho. The crossing costs 10,000 COP, but I got shaken down by Venezuelan immigration, who invented a violation and made me pay $40 USD. Puerto Ayacucho didn’t inspire me much. The city felt sketchy, with many hotels closed. Dealing with currency exchange was the hardest part—you *must* bring cash (USD or Colombian pesos), know the exchange rate, and find someone with enough money to exchange with you. It took me at least 2 hours. I stayed in a decent hotel downtown for $20 USD a night, but I’ll admit that going out at night—even in Puerto Ayacucho—felt pretty dodgy. All the buildings have bars on the windows, and there weren’t many people outside. I didn’t linger and found my plans to continue south too complicated. The next day, I took a bus across the country to the Brazilian border at Santa Elena de Uairén. The trip took a day and a night, with countless military checkpoints where they made everyone get off, unload all the luggage, etc. Not exactly a fun ride.

Photos: - 2 sunrises near the Orocué dock - Storm over the savanna at Rancho Barú - View of the savanna and Orinoco near Casuarito - Photo taken during the Río Meta boat trip

Hi everyone, We're planning a trip to Chile to visit the Atacama Desert and then head toward Putre, Lauca, Salar de Surire, etc. Which would be the better time to go, April or November? Is an SUV enough? Looking forward to your tips!

Hello,

We’re thinking about our next destination for June 2026, and northern Brazil seems like a great option for that time of year.

We were considering a 15-day trip from Fortaleza to São Luís (or the other way around), but I’m worried it might not offer enough variety in terms of sights and landscapes. We were thinking of doing a trek in Lençóis Park, visiting Jericoacoara, the Parnaíba Delta, etc.).

The other option would be to take a domestic flight and add the Salvador de Bahia region and Chapada Diamantina, but that would require about 3 weeks.

Do you think exploring the coast between Fortaleza and São Luís is enough for a trip if we don’t kitesurf? Or is it better to combine this part of the country with another region (Salvador? The Amazon?)?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Have a great day

Hello,

For our trip in September 2025 from mid-September to early October (3 weeks), we’ve planned 8 days in San Pedro, then a transit night in Santiago, 8 days in Chilean Patagonia, and 3 days for Santiago/Valparaíso before heading back. Is it possible to easily explore with a rental car from a lodge based in Puerto Natales, including visiting Torres del Paine National Park? Or does that mean too much driving in a day, or would it be better to plan an overnight stay in the park or nearby?

We applied for our international driver’s permit in January 2025 for September, hoping to get it in time—I checked the forum about this. Regarding the car rental, do we really need a credit card (not debit) in the main driver’s name for the deposit?

How far in advance should we book entry tickets to the national parks for this period?

Best regards,

Odile

I visited Colombia in January 2016 and I’m heading back from August 6th to 17th with the same airline to see how things have changed. Starting August 18th, I’ll continue with independent exploration. I prefer slow travel and enjoying places at my own pace. Any tips—especially for getting around or must-see spots—are welcome!

Thu Aug 06. Fly Montreal to Bogotá 20:55-04:05+1 Air Canada Fri Aug 07. Bogotá Sat Aug 08. Bogotá Sun Aug 09. Bogotá Mon Aug 10. Fly Bogotá to Medellín Tue Aug 11. Medellín - Explore Guatapé Wed Aug 12. Comuna 8 & Hill of Values - PM Fly to Pereira Thu Aug 13. Montenegro Fri Aug 14. Salento - Cocora Valley Sat Aug 15. Fly to Cartagena Sun Aug 16. Explore Cartagena Mon Aug 17. Explore Cartagena Tue Aug 18. Fly Cartagena to Cali 12:20-14:55 Latam Wed Aug 19. Cali Thu Aug 20. Cali Fri Aug 21. Cali Sat Aug 22. Bus Cali to Popayán 09:00-13:00 Sun Aug 23. Popayán Mon Aug 24. Popayán Tue Aug 25. Popayán - Day trip to Silvia (Market Day) Wed Aug 26. Overland Popayán to Tierradentro by public transportation 4h, 100km Thu Aug 27. Tierradentro Fri Aug 28. Tierradentro Sat Aug 29. Overland Tierradentro to Garzón via La Plata Sun Aug 30. Bus Garzón to San Agustín 10:30-13:00 Mon Aug 31. San Agustín Tue Sep 01. San Agustín Wed Sep 02. San Agustín Thu Sep 03. San Agustín Fri Sep 04. Overland San Agustín to Tatacoa Desert via Neiva Sat Sep 05. Tatacoa Desert Sun Sep 06. Fly to Bogotá via Neiva 16:00-17:00 Latam Mon Sep 07. Bogotá Tue Sep 08. Fly Bogotá to Montreal 09:00-16:30 Air Canada